Ageing in Retanning Stage

How It Is Done

 After the retanning chemicals (syntans, vegetable tannins, resins, chrome, etc.) are
added and run in the drum for a certain time, the float may be partially or fully drained.

 The drum is stopped, and the leather is left inside the drum or stacked in a trolley/pile
in a controlled environment.

 The hides are kept undisturbed (no mechanical action) for several hours.

 Temperature is usually kept moderate (room temp 20–25 °C) to avoid bacterial action or
over-drying.

 Sometimes the pile is covered with plastic sheets to prevent evaporation and maintain
moisture.

How Much Time It Takes

The ageing time depends on:

 Thickness of leather: thicker hides need more time.

 Type of retanning agents: vegetable tannins and resins diffuse slower than syntans or
chrome.

 Target product: high-quality crust or upholstery leather requires longer resting for
uniform properties.

Typical Ageing Times

 Short ageing: 4–6 hours (sufficient for light syntan retanning or thin sides).

 Standard ageing: 12–24 hours (common in most cow/buff hides).

 Extended ageing: up to 48 hours (for heavy leather, vegetable tannage, or resin

1. SAM Setting
Objective:

 To remove excess water after wringing/samming.

 To prepare leather for controlled drying stages (vacuum or overhead).

How It’s Done:

 After sammying (pressing leather between felt-covered rollers to squeeze out water), the
SAM setting machine is used.

 The machine stretches leather in both directions while pressing it, reducing wrinkles and
evening thickness.

 The pressure is adjustable depending on the hide type and thickness.

Effect on Leather:

 Removes mechanical wrinkles.

 Improves smoothness and surface appearance.

 Controls grain tightness and thickness.

 Prepares leather for further drying stages by bringing it to consistent moisture content.

2. Wet Vacuum Drying

 To quickly remove a large portion of water from wet leather after sammying.

 To “set” the leather fibers in a flat and smooth position under suction.

How It’s Done:

 Wet leather is placed on a heated stainless steel plate with the grain side up.

 A felt or rubber blanket is lowered, creating an airtight seal.

 A strong vacuum suction is applied, pulling out water vapor and liquid moisture.

 Heat (~60–70 °C) assists in evaporating water while vacuum prevents oxidation and grain
damage.

 Process lasts only a few minutes per cycle.

Effect on Leather:

 Moisture is reduced to ~45–50%.

 Maintains grain tightness and prevents shrinkage.

 Saves energy and time compared to natural drying.

3. Overhead Drying
Objective:

 To further reduce moisture content of leather after vacuum drying.

 To allow gentle evaporation in a controlled environment.

How It’s Done:

 Leathers are hung on clips or hooks on an overhead conveyor system.

 The conveyor moves the leather slowly through a drying tunnel with controlled airflow,
humidity, and temperature.

 Air circulation gradually removes moisture.

 Drying is typically carried out at 30–40 °C to avoid grain cracking.

Effect on Leather:

 Moisture content reduces to ~10–15%.

 Leathers retain shape and dimensional stability.

 Provides flexibility without making leather brittle.

 Suitable for bulk drying of sides or hides.

4. Vibratory Staking Machine

 To soften and loosen leather fibers after drying (which makes leather stiff).

 To improve softness, flexibility, and drape.

How It’s Done:

 Vibrations and mechanical action break down stiff fiber bonds and re-open the fiber
structure.

 The process may be repeated several times until desired softness is achieved.

Effect on Leather:

 Leather becomes soft, pliable, and flexible.

 Improves “hand feel” and drape, especially important for garment, upholstery, and glove
leathers.

 Helps in uniform thickness and smoothness.

5. Dry Vacuum Drying

 To complete the drying of leather under vacuum in a controlled way, ensuring flatness
and good grain quality.

How It’s Done:

 Similar to wet vacuum drying, but applied when the leather is already semi-dry.

 Leather is placed grain-up on a heated plate.

 Vacuum is applied to draw out the last portions of moisture.

 This stage brings the moisture down to the final required level (~10–14%).

Effect on Leather:

 Produces very flat, smooth leather with tight grain.

 Prevents uneven shrinkage and drying marks.

 Gives leather dimensional stability and prepares it for conditioning and finishing.

Trimming
 Removes Defective Areas: Cuts away dried, hardened, and often brittle edges (e.g.,
belly, neck, shanks) that are unsuitable for premium products.
  Standardizes Shape & Size: Creates neat, rectangular hides that are easier to handle,
stack, store, and ship efficiently.

 Improves Yield & Value Calculation: Allows for precise measurement (square footage)
and grading, ensuring accurate pricing based on usable area.

 Enhances Aesthetic Quality: Results in a uniform, clean-looking hide that is more

 Prepares for Subsequent Operations: Provides a consistent edge for further processes
like staking, softening, and finishing.

7. Finishing leather process

o Shiny, glossy coating applied for luxury articles.

 Glaze Finish

o Achieved by glazing machine; accentuates grain and color depth.

 Corrected Grain Finish

o Imperfections buffed and polymer coatings applied.

o Artificial grain may be embossed.

 Semi-Aniline Finish

o Transparent dye + small pigment.

o Preserves natural look with light coverage.

 Opaque Finish

o Full pigment coverage.

o Provides high resistance, easy care.

 Pull-up Finish

o Oil/wax effect; shade changes on stretching.

 Nubuck Finish

o Slightly buffed top grain for velvety texture.

 Mottled Finish

o Decorative effect by spraying or padding.

8. Binders and Auxiliaries

 Binders:
 o Natural: Casein, albumin, shellac.

o Synthetic: Acrylic, PU dispersions, resins.

 Functions:

o Bind pigments and finishes to leather.

o Give film brightness, adhesion, and wear resistance.

 Plasticizers:

o Improve flexibility of finish films.

 Anti-sticking agents:

o Prevent tackiness during finishing operations.

 Cross-linking agents:

o Improve heat resistance and rubbing fastness.

9. Natural Materials in Finishing

 Casein: Protein binder, gives brilliance.

 Albumin: From egg/blood, traditional binder.

 Shellac: Resin, improves gloss and water resistance.

 Relak: Natural resin from insect secretion (lac).

 Soya Protein: Alternative binder, eco-friendly.

 Tragacanth Gum: From plant exudates, provides elasticity.

 Irish Moss: Seaweed gum substitute for gum arabic.

 Linseed Mucilage: Used for flexibility and binding.