UNIVERSITI MALAYSIA PERLIS

COURSE NAME ENGINEERING SKILLS

COURSE CODE DCT 100 LAB NO.

LAB MODULE

BASIC COMPUTER

LEVEL OF COMPLEXITY

1 2 3 4 5 6

KNOWLEDGE COMPREHENSION APPLICATION ANALYSIS EVALUATION SYNTHESIS

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DCT 100 – Basic Engineering Skill Laboratory Module

CONTENT

BASIC COMPUTER 3
COMPUTER ASSEMBLY 10
INTRODUCTION TO OPERATING SYSTEM AND CONFIGURATION 35
INTRODUCTION TO COMPUTER NETWORKING 47
ETHERNET CABLES WIRING 50

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BASIC COMPUTER

1.0 OBJECTIVE
1.1 To learn the basic component of computer
1.2 To learn computer assembly
1.3 To learn the operating system and configuration.

2. INTRODUCTION

2.1 Introduction to basic component of computer

When you mention the word "technology", most people think about computers. Virtually every
facet of our lives has some computerized component. The appliances in our homes have
microprocessors built into them, as do our televisions. Even our cars have a computer. But the
computer that everyone thinks of first is typically the personal computer, or PC.

A PC is a general purpose tool built around a microprocessor. It has lots of different parts --
memory, a hard disk, a modem, etc. -- that work together. "General purpose" means that you
can do many different things with a PC. You can use it to type documents, send e-mail, browse
the Web and play games.

In this course, we will talk about PCs in the general sense and all the different parts that go into
them. You will learn about the various components and how they work together in a basic
operating session. You'll also find out what the future may hold for these machines.

Let's take a look at the main components of a typical desktop computer

1. Central processing unit (CPU) - The microprocessor "brain" of the computer system is
called the central processing unit. Everything that a computer does is overseen by the
CPU.

Image 1: Processor

2. Memory - This is very fast storage used to hold data. It has to be fast because it
connects directly to the microprocessor. There are several specific types of memory in a
computer:
• Random-access memory (RAM) - Used to temporarily store information that the
computer is currently working with

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Image 2: RAM

• Read-only memory (ROM) - A permanent type of memory storage used by the

computer for important data that does not change
• Basic input/output system (BIOS) - A type of ROM that is used by the computer
to establish basic communication when the computer is first turned on
• Virtual memory - Space on a hard disk used to temporarily store data and swap it
in and out of RAM as needed
3. Motherboard - This is the main circuit board that all of the other internal components
connect to. The CPU and memory are usually on the motherboard. Other systems may
be found directly on the motherboard or connected to it through a secondary connection.
For example, a sound card can be built into the motherboard or connected through PCI.

Image 3: Motherboard

4. Power supply - An electrical transformer regulates the electricity used by the computer.

Image 5: Power supply

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5. Hard disk - This is large-capacity permanent storage used to hold information such as
programs and documents.

Image 6: Hard disk drive

6. Solide-state drive (SSD) is a data storage device which uses a semiconductors

without moving parts. This type of memory devices are silent (noiseless) and less fragile
than traditional hard disks. An SSD using SRAM or DRAM is often called a RAM-drive.

Image 7: Solide-state drive

7. Operating system - This is the basic software that allows the user to interface with the
computer.
8. Integrated Drive Electronics (IDE) Controller - This is the primary interface for the hard
drive, CD-ROM and floppy disk drive.
9. Peripheral Component Interconnect (PCI) Bus - The most common way to connect
additional components to the computer, PCI uses a series of slots on the motherboard
that PCI cards plug into.
10. SCSI - Pronounced "scuzzy," the small computer system interface is a method of adding
additional devices, such as hard drives or scanners, to the computer.
11. AGP - Accelerated Graphics Port is a very high-speed connection used by the graphics
card to interface with the computer.

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Image 8: Solide-state drive

12. Sound card - This is used by the computer to record and play audio by converting analog
sound into digital information and back again.

Image 9: Sound card

13. Graphics card - This translates image data from the computer into a format that can be
displayed by the monitor.

Connections:Input/Output
No matter how powerful the components inside your computer are, you need a way to
interact with them. This interaction is called input/output (I/O). The most common types of
I/O in PCs are:

1. Monitor - The monitor is the primary device for displaying information from the computer.

Image 10: Flat monitor and CRT monitor

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2. Keyboard - The keyboard is the primary device for entering information into the
computer.

Image 11: Keyboard

3. Mouse - The mouse is the primary device for navigating and interacting with the
computer

Image 12: Mouse

4. Removable storage - Removable storage devices allow you to add new information to
your computer very easily, as well as save information that you want to carry to a
different location.

• Floppy disk - The most common form of removable storage, floppy disks are
extremely inexpensive and easy to save information to.
• CD-ROM - CD-ROM (compact disc, read-only memory) is a popular form of
distribution of commercial software. Many systems now offer CD-R (recordable)
and CD-RW (rewritable), which can also record.
• Flash memory - Based on a type of ROM called electrically erasable
programmable read-only memory (EEPROM), Flash memory provides fast,
permanent storage. CompactFlash, SmartMedia and PCMCIA cards are all types
of Flash memory.
• DVD-ROM - DVD-ROM (digital versatile disc, read-only memory) is similar to CD-
ROM but is capable of holding much more information.

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Connections: Ports

Parallel - This port is commonly used to connect a printer.

Image 13: Parallel port

Serial - This port is typically used to connect an external modem.

Image 14: Serial port

Universal Serial Bus (USB) - Quickly becoming the most popular external connection,
USB ports offer power and versatility and are incredibly easy to use.

Image 15: USB port

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Connections: Internet/Network

Modem - This is the standard method of connecting to the Internet.

Local area network (LAN) card - This is used by many computers, particularly those in an
Ethernet office network, to connected to each other.
Cable modem - Some people now use the cable-television system in their home to
connect to the Internet.
Digital Subscriber Line (DSL) modem - This is a high-speed connection that works over a
standard telephone line.
Very high bit-rate DSL (VDSL) modem - A newer variation of DSL, VDSL requires that
your phone line have fiber-optic cables.

Questions:-

1. What is RAM? Explain the uses of RAM.

2. What do you understand about CPU?
3. Discuss the significance of computer.
4. Who are Intel, Microsoft, Oracle, and Google?
5. There is several company manufacture RAM. List down three of them.
6. Do you own a computer? Write about your computer (example: how much the speed,
RAM, Hard disk etc.)
7. Do you have pen drive? What do you understand about your pen drive?

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COMPUTER ASSEMBLY

3.0 TOOLS REQUIRED

Tool required

Screwdriver
PC Case
Floppy Disk Drive
Hard Drive
CD-ROM Drive
Processor
Processor Cooling Fan
Motherboard
Memory Modules
Power Supply

Software Required

System Disk
Device Drivers (these usually come with the hardware above)
Operating System

Cables and Miscellaneous

Drive cables
Motherboard spacers (usually come with the motherboard, but are used to space the
motherboard up off the mounting plate)
Screws
Power cords
CPU Cooling Compound

3.1 FIND A CLEAN AND STATIC FREE WORK ENVIRONMENT

Some examples of this type of environment could be:

• In the garage on the workbench

• On the kitchen counter
• At the dining room table
• At your desk if it's not on carpet

It is possible to safely build a computer on carpet but we would not recommend it, especially for
the first time builder. You just want to be as safe as possible and take as many precautions as
you can to prevent damaging your new computer.

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3.2 OPEN AND PREPARE THE CASE

Most cases available allow access to the inside through their side panels. Some used to require
you to take the entire sides and top off but since making your own custom computer is becoming
more popular, the case manufacturers decided to make things easier. If your case doesn't come
off in the described manner, just refer to the manual it comes with, or do some experimenting to
find out how to open it up.

The following sets of pictures show two different cases illustrating how they can either come
off in one piece, or have the side panels removed.

Removing the Case as a Whole

Image 1: Casing

Image 2: Screw out

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Image 3: Open the casing

Image 4: Look for power supply

Once the case is open, make sure you locate the power supply if it was supposed to come with
one. If it already has a power supply, skip to the part of this step entitled "Installing the Risers".
Before you do that however, make sure your case comes with a bag of screws. These will be
needed throughout the construction of your computer.

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Installing the Power Supply:

Most power supplies are a standard size and should fit nicely in the case at the top. Just make
sure the fan is unobstructed and the screw holes in the power supply line up with the screw
holes in the case. It may help to lay the case on its side while screwing in the power supply

Image 5: Put the power supply into casing

Image 6: positioned the power supply

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Image 7: Screw the power supply

Image 8: Screw the power supply tighten

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Installing the Risers:

Image 9: Risers

Locate the bag of screws that came with your case and take out the motherboard risers. They
will either be plastic or metal. Either type will work, and in some cases you can use both. Right
is an example of a typical metal riser.

You will need as many risers as there are holes in the motherboard. So carefully take your
motherboard out of its anti-static bag and place it on that bag. Orient the motherboard as if you
were going to place it in the case by making sure the connecting ports on the motherboard
(where you connect the keyboard, mouse, USB components, etc) are facing out the back of the
case. Count the holes in the motherboard and see where they line up on the inside of the case.
It may be a good idea to mark these holes in the case with a highlighter or marker so it's easier
to remember where to install the risers.

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Image 10: Installing risers

Next simply screw the risers into place, as seen above, making sure they're tight. If the
motherboard happens to have some extra holes where there are no holes lining up with them in
the case, just pop in some of the plastic risers with the pointy part of the riser pointing through
the face of the motherboard. What this does is prevent the metal of the case from touching of
the electronic components on the underside of the motherboard.

Once the risers are installed, you can get the front of the case ready for the drives.

3.3 INSTALL THE MOTHERBOARD

This is where a delicate hand will be needed.

When installing most computer parts, and especially the motherboard, you must remember that
you shouldn't force anything in, but you can't be too timid as to not apply enough pressure to
make things fit. Since all these computer parts must be universal fitting, the chances of
something being just a little off here or there is expected and should not be interpreted as not
being able to fit. There's a certain way of maneuvering the motherboard in that allows it to sort
of lock into place just before you screw it in.

Place it in the case:

Touch the case! Remember, if you're not using a static wristband then make sure you
are always touching the case while handling electronic components

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Take the motherboard back out of the bag and double check to make sure the risers you
installed line up with the holes in the motherboard and the rectangular plate on the back of the
case lines up with the ports on the motherboard. The best way to maneuver the motherboard in
there is to have the case on it's side and lower the motherboard slightly at an angle, with the
ports going in first. Push the motherboard against the rectangular port plate so that it's snug,
then lower the rest of the motherboard down. If done correctly the holes in the motherboard
should line up with the risers more or less. If they don't, then try doing this lowering step a
couple times or check to see if there are any obstructions between the motherboard and case.

Image 11: Installing motherboard

3.4 INSTALL THE PROCESSOR (CPU-CENTRAL PROCESSING UNIT)

Socket processor installation:

This installation is a little more difficult, but all you have to do is be careful that you don't bend
any pins and make sure you orient the processor correctly to fit in the socket.

Touch the case! Remember, if you're not using a static wristband then make sure you
are always touching the case while handling electronic components

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Image 12: Socket for processor

When you look down at the motherboard you will see a place for the processor to go that
looks like the picture on the right. If you look closely, you can see that one of the corners of the
socket (the top right corner) is missing a hole. That's so it matches up with the processor and
the processor can fit into the socket in only one way. You should also see a small lever towards
the top of the socket that if pushed down and away from the socket, will lift up and shift the top
part of the socket one way. This will be used to secure the processor in place.

Once the lever is up you're ready to put the processor in place. Just make sure you find the
corner on the processor that is missing a pin, and place the

Image 13: Heat sink

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processor down into the socket. If all the pins line up then it should plug in there fairly easily,
although it could take just a little gentle moving around to find it's place. Once you are positive
that the pins are lined up and in their place, push down on the processor and push the lever
down and lock it into place. Once the CPU is secure, you'll need to install the heatsink. A
heatsink (pictured to the right) is a metal structure that is used to dissipate heat generated by the
processor.

Depending on the type of fan you have will determine how it is installed. Most likely there will
be instructions that come with it so please consult those for specific directions on how to secure
it. Most likely you will simply hook the fan over the heatsink and processor, connecting it to the
plastic socket holding the processor in.

Once the fan is installed, make sure you connect the wire that powers the fan as seen above.
The fan does you no good unless it's plugged in!

Install the processor:

Image 14: Install the processor

Once the heatsink and fan are attached to the processor, just slide the processor into place in its
slot with the fan and heatsink pointing towards the front of the case as pictured on the right.

Once the fan, heatsink, and CPU are installed, make sure you connect the wire that powers the
fan as seen above. The fan does you no good unless it's plugged in!

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3.5 INSTALL THE RAM

RAM installation is very easy, and very foolproof.

Image 15: RAM socket

As you look at the slots on your motherboard, notice that there are notches that prevent you from
installing the RAM backwards or upside down. The gold plated edge of the RAM is the part that
will be going into the slot itself.

To determine which slots the memory will go into, please consult your motherboard manual.
Each motherboard may be different as to how many slots need to be taken, and in which order.
Not following the manual instructions can cause a big headache as illustrated in the example
below.

Once you establish which slots need to be filled up and in what sequence, it's just a matter of
popping the memory into place.

Touch the case! Remember, if you're not using a static wristband then make sure you
are always touching the case while handling electronic components

Those white tabs at the ends of each slot will need to be opened away from the slot itself.
Those are what hold the memory into place. Once those are opened, just determine which way
the RAM should fit in there, making sure the notches on the gold plated side match up with the
notches in the RAM slot. Then firmly press down until those white tabs pop back in towards the

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slot, locking the RAM into place. Don't be afraid to use a little pressure, but make sure
everything is lined up correctly before you do.

3.6 INSTALL THE HARD DRIVE

This will probably be one of the most difficult steps of the installation, but luckily, as long as
you comprehend everything and find a nice place for the hard drive then it will go by very easily.

In this step we explain the function of the IDE Cable, how many devices can be attached, and
the Master/Slave relationship between two devices on one cable. After you learn that you'll be
able to install the hard drive and you'll also be ready to install the other drives later on.

Image 16: IDE ribbon cable

The IDE Ribbon Cable:

The IDE Cable, pictured above, allows you to attach certain devices to the motherboard. Some
of the most common devices that are attached using these cables are the CD/DVD drive, Hard
Drive, and Iomega Zip or Jaz drives. It does matter which devices are on the same cable, and
which are connected to the primary plug on the motherboard so read closely.

The motherboard will have two plugs that the IDE cable can connect to. Each IDE cable has
3 connectors, one for the motherboard (pictured above in blue), and two for any devices such as
the CD/DVD drive, hard drive, etc. Also, all devices will have the option of being the Master or
Slave. What this means is that the master will have priority over the slave for using the
processor.

Now that you know all that, let's explain which devices should have first priority.

Since your hard drive is where you run all your programs from and store all your important
information, it should be set as the master and put on the primary connector on the
motherboard. Depending on the brand of your hard drive (hopefully Western Digital), you'll need
to refer to the manual to see what the jumper setting should be. That depends on one thing,
whether there is going to be another device on that same cable. If there is, then the jumper is
usually in the middle, if not, the jumper is usually completely removed.

Look at the picture below to see the rows of pins under the "jumper setting" box. There are
two rows of six pins, this is where you will make the setting. Again, refer to the manual that
came with your hard drive since the settings can differ between companies as well as models.

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Image 17: Several type of port

With a standard motherboard this makes a total of 4 devices you can connect. If you plan on
having two CD or DVD drives then you will definitely want to attach those on separate IDE
cables to reduce any problems that could be encountered while copying a CD.

Example:

So for a hypothetical example let's say you have a DVD burner, a spare CD drive, a hard drive,
and a Zip drive. The hard drive will be the master on the primary IDE cable with the spare CD
drive as the slave. This is the only option because the DVD burner, being a higher end drive,
would need priority in having access to the processor, thus making it the master on the
secondary IDE cable. So on the secondary IDE cable would be the master, DVD burner, and the
slave, the Zip drive. Refer to the diagram below for a visual explanation.

Once you understand this, the only limitation is the physical distance between devices and
making sure the IDE cable will reach every device; that's why it pays to plan out where you will
be installing everything.

Installing the Hard Drive:

Ok, now that you know all that, you'll need to find a good place to put your hard drive. Keep in
mind that the IDE cable is only so long, so it would be a good idea to measure the distances
between the two devices that will be on the same cable, making sure everything will fit.

Touch the case! Remember, if you're not using a static wristband then make sure you
are always touching the case while handling electronic components

Since the hard drive is where all the information on a computer is stored it will be used quite a
bit and therefore will generate a good amount of heat. That's why it's important to place it where
it will

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Image 18: Installing hard drive

get plenty of ventilation. If you look at the open case on the right, you'll notice the rack on the
right side where all the devices will be secured. The hard drive typically goes on the bottom of
this rack to provide plenty of ventilation. If you have two hard drives, make sure not to put them
right on top of each other, leave at least an inch of space between the two.

The best way to situate the hard drive in there is to orient it so the pins and plug
are facing towards the inside of the computer. Take your hard drive and slide it
towards the front of the computer into the rack I mentioned. Now just make sure
that the holes in the side of the hard drive align with the holes in the rack. Hard
drives usually require large thread screws but if those don't seem to go in very
easily, then just try small thread screws to see if that works better. Use 2 screws
to secure the side of the hard drive that's facing you. It isn't usually necessary to
use 2 screws on the other side as well, but you can if you want.

3.7 INSTALL THE VIDEO CARD

It's all downhill from here!

Installing the cards and double checking everything is all that's needed before you can turn the
computer on for the first time.

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Image 19: Video card

Locate your video card, it's the one with a blue connector on the back and looks like the picture
on the right. Since video cards use more resources and power of all the other cards in your
computer, they have their own special slot closer to the processor. Typically this slot is brown in
color and is slightly offset from the other PCI slots.

The slot you'll be inserting the video card into is called an AGP slot . The process for
inserting this card is the same as all the other cards aside from the fact that it goes in a different
kind of slot.

To install:

Touch the case! Remember, if you're not using a static wristband then make sure you
are always touching the case while handling electronic components.

Simply place the card over the AGP slot on the motherboard and settle it in slowly. There are
different kinds of AGP slots so make sure that your video card fits in this kind. If your
motherboard and video card are fairly recent, then you should have no problems with this. If
your card lines up but doesn't seem to fit, then double check to see if the notches in the card line
up with the ones on the motherboard. If they don't, then it looks like you may have to return your
video card for one that is compatible with your motherboard. Consult your motherboard manual
for details on what sort of AGP cards it supports, then buy a video card accordingly.

Image 20: Installing video card

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Make sure the card is seated well in the slot by pushing down on the edge of it along its
length. It should feel secure in there, and the back end of the card should be lined up with the
empty slot on the back of the computer.

Image 21: Installing video card

If everything goes well, you can go ahead and finish your first card installation by securing it
with a screw. Locate the bag of screws that came with your case and find a screw with Large
Threads. Use this screw to secure the card in the location illustrated by the picture on the right.

3.8 INSTALL THE CD OR DVD DRIVE

Typically the CD/DVD drive goes in the very top bay of the computer case, but before you do
that, make sure the IDE cable is long enough to connect both devices that will be on that cable.
If the CD/DVD drive is going to be the only device, then this won't be a problem.

Installing the CD/DVD drive:

Since with most cases it would be nearly impossible to slide the CD/DVD drive in from the inside,
we'll focus on installing it through the front of the case.

Make sure you've removed any plastic panels or metal tabs that might be covering up the extra
bays inside the case. If you haven't already done this, then refer to Step 2 (Preparing the case) .

One more thing you should do before putting the drive in is to check the jumper settings to
make sure they coincide with the setup you've determined.

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Image 22: Installing CD or DVD drive

When you're ready to physically install the drive , just slide it into the bay you've selected for
it. Everything should go smoothly, if it doesn't then you should check for any obstructions that
may be blocking it.

Image 23: Screw the DVD or CD drive

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Once the front of the drive is flush with the case you're ready to secure it with screws.
Sometimes the CD/DVD drives come with a bag of four small screws. Don't worry if it didn't
since you can go ahead and use the small thread screws that came with your case. If the cover
of your case doesn't come off in one piece, but rather has two panels that slide off (as is typical),
then go ahead and take the panel off the other side if you already haven't. This is necessary to
access the screw holes on the other side of the drive. It's a good idea to use all four screw holes
available, unlike the hard drive installation, because you will be pushing the button on CD/DVD
drive quite often, and the more secure it is the less chance there is of it coming loose.
Sometimes a CD or DVD drive will have eight screw holes available. Four screws are plenty and
using eight screws would just be overkill.

Image 24: Install the floppy drive

Install the Floppy Drive:

We won't go into as much detail on this part since it basically follows the same pattern as the
CD/DVD drive did. The only difference is that the bay is smaller. Find the floppy bay and slide
the floppy drive in making sure the front of it is flush with the front of the case. Sometimes cases
have a hidden bay where you will need to load the floppy drive in from the inside of the case.
Secure it in with some screws and move on to the next step.

Once you secure the drive with all four screws you're ready to connect all the devices
with the IDE cable.

Connect the devices:

Now that you have all the devices in the computer, you're ready to connect all of them.

Refer once again to the diagram to see which devices you want to connect together. Make
sure your master and slave settings are correct. Remember to locate the primary and secondary
IDE plugs on the motherboard. You'll want the hard drive to be on the primary. Once you're
sure that you know how everything is going to be set up, go ahead and take the IDE cables that

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came with your hard drive or CD/DVD drive and connect the devices to the motherboard. These
cables are keyed so they can only go in one way. The only exception to that rule is the floppy
cable.

Below: IDE1 is the Primary IDE plug

Note the number 1 below the bottom left corner of IDE1

That should coincide with where the red wire on the IDE cable goes.

Image 25: IDE 1

Below: The same concept but slightly different

Notice the white corner on the bottom left of each plug. This signifies Pin 1

Image 26: IDE port

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The floppy cable is usually keyed but can sometimes go in either way. The best thing to do is
look at where Pin 1 is (as seen above) on both the floppy drive and the motherboard. Also,
remember that the part of the floppy cable that twists goes closest to the floppy drive itself.

3.9 CONNECT THE CASE WIRES TO THE MOTHERBOARD

This is a step where it pays to check and double check your work.

Often times a computer's initial problems can be attributed to not connecting everything
correctly. In this section we will go through each and every possible connection you will make in
your computer to get it up and running.

Keep in mind:

You want to make sure that none of the wires obstruct the movement of the processor fan. We
have done this before and it WILL cause the processor to overheat, halt the computer, and
possibly damage the processor itself. Zip ties are a good way to clean up the inside of the
computer and allow you to bundle the wires together.

Connect the power wires:

The power wires are the most foolproof wires that you will be connecting in this part. Each
connector coming from your power supply is made so that it can only attach in the correct
manner.

Image 27: Motherboard connection

Pictured above, this connector has the most wires leading to the power supply. Locate the plug
on the motherboard and plug it in. That's it. It will only go in one way, unless you force it of
course, and once it's in it will be secured by a clip that you can see in the picture on the right.
You won't be able to pull it back out without pressing this clip and lifting at the same time. To

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make sure it's secure go ahead and try lightly pulling on the connector without pressing the clip.
If it stays seated, then you're done with this connector.

Hard Drive, CD/DVD, and Zip/Jaz Drives:

The connectors for these devices have four wires stemming from them (pictured right). If you
look closely you'll see that two of the four corners have notches in them. This is to ensure that
the connectors only go in one way. Before actually connecting each drive you should make sure
that each connector will be able to reach that drive. If you have a couple of short wires and more
devices that are a further distance away from the power supply, then you may need to rearrange
some of your devices so they all are able to have a power connector. Connecting it is simple,
just make sure it's seated properly and is snug enough where some force is needed to pull it out
again.

Image 28: Connector for hard drive, CD,DVD

Floppy Drive:

The floppy drive power connector is much smaller and has only four wires coming from it. It
used to be easy to connect these connectors backwards but now they are keyed to fit only one
way like the rest of the power connectors stemming from the power supply.

Other Power Connections:

Some motherboards have other places that may or may not require a power connector to be
connected. Some of these seem extraneous but can really help the performance of the
computer. First, look at your motherboard manual to see if you have any of these connections.
If you do then make sure you have the appropriate power connectors stemming from the power
supply. Computer building is becoming much more "plug and play" so chances are if a
connector looks like it will fit then it probably will. Of course, when in doubt, look it up in your
manual.

Some places to look on the motherboard would be somewhere else near the processor, and
somewhere near the AGP slot. With video cards becoming more advanced, many may need
that extra boost of power from the power supply to perform at full potential. Another place that
may require an extra boost of power is near the processor somewhere on the motherboard.
Before plugging any of the extra power wires to the motherboard, make sure you check the
manual to see what they are for sure.

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Front Panel Connector

This connector makes sure the buttons and lights on the front of your panel know how to work. It
also powers the speaker that makes that "beep" sound when you turn on your computer. Each
motherboard may be different but the instructions will look very similar to what is shown below.

Image 29: Connecting front panel connector

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Image 30: Different type of wire

It is very important to consult your manual to make sure you make all the appropriate
connections. One thing to keep in mind, the wires leading from the front of your case will have
black connectors on the ends of them that look like the picture on the right. Each of these
connectors has a wire that holds the positive charge. If you look above, for example at the four
orange pins on the top illustration that signifies the speaker, you'll see that one end of that row
has a plus sign next to it.

Image 31: Connector

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To locate the wire that has the positive charge on the connector, find the tiny triangle on that
connector, as pictured to the above. This is where patience and small hands come into very
good use. Just take your time and make sure you consult the manual for all your connections.

USB/Firewire/Audio Connections:

Another possibility is that your case has either USB, Firewire, or Audio connections available on
the front of the case. It is very important that you look at your motherboard manual for these
connections. If it looks like your connectors from the case and the connectors on the
motherboard don't match up, then DON'T MESS WITH IT! It is very easy to fry a motherboard
since these types of connections require a lot of power to travel through them. When in doubt,
consult the manual or call the case or motherboard company to get some help there.

Remember

Once you make sure everything is hooked up, double check it!

Once you're sure everything is hooked up,

3.10 CHECK ALL CONNECTIONS

Yes, that's right, you're going to want to check your connections AGAIN! There's no such thing
as too safe when you're working with electronic components that are sensitive to electricity.

This step will provide a checklist for you to go over, making sure that all your cables are properly
connected and secure:

Check List

1. Make sure all the cards are seated well and screwed in
2. Check the power connections
3. Check the IDE and Floppy cables and master/slave settings
4. Check the front panel connectors
5. Check any other connections

Make sure all the cards are seated well and screwed in:

This includes the RAM. You want to make sure everything is secure in it's slot and doesn't shift
around when you lightly push it back and forth.

Check the power connections

Make sure all the power connections are secure and can't be easily pulled out. This includes the
power to the motherboard, CD/DVD drive, floppy drive, and any other place that is using a power
cable from the power supply.

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Check the IDE and Floppy cables and master/slave settings

Make sure the hard drive is on the cable that is connected to the primary plug on the
motherboard. Also check to make sure it is the master, and the other device on that cable (if
there is one) is the slave. Check the other IDE cable as well and make sure all of them are
securely plugged in.

Check the front panel connectors

Refer to your manual and double check all the connectors for the front panel. Make sure that
small triangle on the plastic plug leading from the case is on the positively charged pin on the
motherboard.

Check any other connections

Double check any other connections you may have made and MAKE SURE that no wires are
near any moving parts such as the processor fan or the video card fan. If possible, bundle the
power cables together with a Velcro strap or even a zip tie.

QUESTION:

• Do you ever heard about DELL? Briefly explain who is DELL?

• What is the heat sink used for?
• What is the different between AMD and Microsoft?
• What is the different between RAM and hard disk?
• Discuss the importance of USB ports.

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INTRODUCTION TO OPERATING SYSTEM AND CONFIGURATION

4.0 SOFTWARE INSTALLATION

Windows 7 Installation
Share
So, you’re ready to install Windows 7? Read on to get guidance on how to approach this installation and
make sure your copy of Windows 7 is properly installed.

Planning the Installation

As with any OS installation, we must first plan the installation process. When you run the Windows 7
Setup program, you must provide information about how to install and configure the operating system.
Thorough planning can make your installation of Windows 7 more efficient by helping you to avoid
potential problems during installation. An understanding of the configuration options will also help to
ensure that you have properly configured your system.

Here are some of the most important things you should take into consideration when planning for your
Windows 7 installation:

· Check System Requirements

· Check Hardware and Software Compatibility
· Determine Disk Partitioning Options
· Complete a Pre-Installation Checklist

Microsoft states the minimum recommended specs for Windows 7:

· 1 GHz 32-bit or 64-bit processor

· 1 GB of system memory
· 26 GB of available disk space
· Support for DirectX 9 graphics with 128 MB memory (to enable the Aero theme)
· DVD-R/W Drive
· Internet access (to activate and get updates)

Windows 7 Version 32-bit or 64-bit?

You need to decide whether to install the 32-bit or 64-bit version of Windows 7. The Windows 7
installation disc package includes both 32-bit and 64-bit versions of Windows 7. Basically, the 64-bit
version of Windows handles large amounts of random access memory (RAM) more effectively than a
32-bit system. So if you plan on using Windows 7 on a computer with more than 3 GB or RAM, It’s
would strongly suggest to use the 64-bit version. Most programs designed for the 32-bit version of
Windows will work on the 64-bit version of Windows.

Note: Either way, you cannot use an existing 32-bit version of a previous OS to perform an in-place
upgrade to a 64-bit version of Windows 7, and you’ll need to format and install a fresh copy. Also, you
cannot use an existing 64-bit version of a previous OS to perform an in-place upgrade to a 32-bit
version of Windows 7.

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Type of Installation
Basically, there are 2 approaches to installing Windows 7:

1. Upgrade (In-place upgrade) – This option replaces your current version of Windows with Windows
7, and keeps your files, settings, and programs in place on your computer.
2. Custom (“fresh” installation) – This option replaces your current version of Windows with Windows
7, but doesn’t preserve your files, settings, and programs. It’s sometimes referred to as a clean
installation for that reason.

As always, a fresh installation is much better and I strongly recommend taking that track. Even if you’ve
got an existing Windows XP/Vista OS on your computer, I would strongly recommend that you format it
and install a fresh copy of the OS.

Beginning the Installation Process

STEP 1: When installing on a physical computer insert your Windows 7 DVD media into your DVD drive
and reboot your computer. If you’re asked to press a key to boot from DVD or CD, press any key. A
black window will appear momentarily while the DVD content is read.

Image 1: Wait for Windows 7 Installation Files to Load

STEP 2: After the Windows 7 install files are loaded into memory, you'll see the Windows 7 splash
screen, indicating that the setup process is about to begin.

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Image 2: Wait for Windows 7 Setup to Finish Loading

STEP 3: Choose the Language to install, Time and currency format, and Keyboard or input method that
you'd like to use in your new Windows 7 installation.

Image 3: Choose Language and Other Preferences

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STEP 4: Click on the Install now button in the center of the screen, under the Windows 7 logo. This will
officially begin the Windows 7 clean install process.

Image 4: Click on the “Install now” button.

Reminder : Do not click the Repair your computer link at the bottom of the window even if you're
completing this clean install of Windows 7 as part of some larger repair project for your computer.
The Repair your computer link is used to start a Windows 7 Startup Repair or perform another recovery
or repair task from System Recovery Options

STEP 5: The next screen that appears is a textbox containing the Windows 7 Software License. Read
through the agreement, check the” I accept the license terms “checkbox under the agreement text and
then click Next to confirm that you agree with the terms.

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Image 5: Accept the Windows 7 License Terms

STEP 6: Next, unless you’re upgrading an existing Windows installation, press the Custom (Advanced)
installation type button. Note that in this case, the Upgrade button is disabled because this specific
installation if performed on a new computer without any previous operating system on it.

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Image 6: Choose the Type of Windows 7 Installation to Complete

STEP 7: The next phase is to pick the installation partition. Since this computer has a new hard disk that
hasn’t been formatted before, you will only have the option to create a new partition on it. If you don’t
want to specify a specific partition to install Windows on, or create partitions on your hard disk, click
Next to begin the installation. If you already have another existing partition with enough free space and
want to install the Windows 7 on that partition to create a multiboot configuration, select the partition you
want to use, and then click Next to begin the installation. If you want to create, extend, delete, or format
a partition, click Drive options (advanced), click the option you want, and then follow the instructions.

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Image 7: Choose a physical location to install windows 7 on

STEP 8: Windows 7 Setup will now install a clean copy of Windows 7 to the location you chose in
the previous step. You don't need to do anything here but wait. This process depending on the speed of
your computer hardware, this process could take anywhere from 5 to 30 minutes.

Image 8: Wait while Windows 7 is installed

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STEP 9: Now that the Windows 7 clean install process is nearly complete, you need to restart your
computer. If you do nothing, your computer will reset automatically after 10 seconds or so. If you'd
rather not wait, you can click the Restart now button at the bottom of the Windows needs to restart to
continue screen.

Image 9: Restart Your Computer

STEP 10: The computer will restart several times during this process so do not worry. During this
process, Windows 7 installs now continuing.

· Its updating registry settings in preparation for the final stages of the operating system clean
install.
· Wait while Windows 7 Setup starts various necessary services.
· Windows 7 is now loading drivers, checking to make sure everything has been setup properly,
removing temporary files, etc.
· Windows 7 needs to know how well your video card and related hardware works so it can
properly adjust performance options for your computer.

STEP 11: After successful installation of Windows 7 it will ask you to specify the ‘computer name’. It will
also ask you enter a ‘User account’ and ‘Password’. Enter the password in the respective field and also
the password hint, click ‘Next’.

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Image10: Choose a User Name and a Computer Name

Image 11: Choose a Password to Access Windows 7

STEP 12: Next, type in your product key. If you do not have the product key at hand you can still click
“Next”, and proceed with the installation. You will be asked to enter the product key after Windows is
installed.

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Image 12: Enter the Windows 7 Product Key

STEP 13: Choose what sort of protection your computer gets. The recommended settings are best for
someone that doesn’t plan to hide their computer behind a corporate firewall (and even then, in some
cases, this would be the best option). If you plan to install a 3rd-party firewall later you can opt to be
prompted later. Note that this setting will also have effect on how the computer uses the Microsoft
Windows Update (Automatic Updates) features..

Image 13: Choose a Windows Update Option

STEP 14: Choose your time zone and location and click on “Next”. Select your network location type.
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This setting can be changed later, but do note that choosing a profile will have effect on the Windows
Firewall and sharing settings. Click on “Next”.

Image 14: Choose the Correct Time Zone, Date, and Time

STEP 15: In the Select your computer's current location window you see now, Windows 7 is asking
where your computer is located at so it can setup the proper network security - tighter security for public
areas and lighter for private ones like home and work.

· Choose Home network or Work network if that applies to you. Most of you reading this will
choose Home network.
· Choose Public network if you use a mobile computer and you connect to the Internet or other
computers away from home. Also, be sure to choose Public network if you access the internet
via a mobile broadband network - no matter if you're at home or not.

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Image 15: Choose a Network Location

STEP 16: Windows will finalize the settings and your desktop will appear. This concludes the Windows
7 installation. Next, you would probably want to update your computer with the latest hotfixes and/or
patches from Microsoft.

Image 16: Your Windows 7 Clean Install is Complete!

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INTRODUCTION TO COMPUTER NETWORKING

5.0 What is Computer Networking?

The engineering discipline concerned with the communication between computer systems or
devices. A computer network is any set of computers or devices connected to each other with
the ability to exchange data.

Let’s take look at the type of networks. There are three types of networks are: the Internet, the
intranet, and the extranet. Examples of different network methods are:

• Local area network (LAN), which is usually a small network constrained to a small
geographic area. An example of a LAN would be a computer network within a building.
• Metropolitan area network (MAN), which is used for medium size area. examples for a
city or a state.
• Wide area network (WAN) that is usually a larger network that covers a large
geographic area.
• Wireless LANs and WANs (WLAN & WWAN) are the wireless equivalent of the LAN
and WAN.

5.1 Networking methods

5.1 Local area network (LAN)

A local area network is a network that spans a relatively small space and provides services to a
small number of people.

A peer-to-peer or client-server method of networking may be used. A peer-to-peer network is

where each client shares their resources with other workstations in the network. Examples of
peer-to-peer networks are: Small office networks where resource use is minimal and a home
network. A client-server network is where every client is connected to the server and each other.
Client-server networks use servers in different capacities. These can be classified into two types:

1. Single-service servers
2. Print servers

Image 1: Local area network (LAN) connection

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The server performs one task such as file server, while other servers can not only perform in the
capacity of file servers and print servers, but also can conduct calculations and use them to
provide information to clients (Web/Intranet Server). Computers may be connected in many
different ways, including Ethernet cables, Wireless networks, or other types of wires such as
power lines or phone lines.

5.2 Wide area network (WAN)

A wide area network is a network where a wide variety of resources are deployed across a large
domestic area or internationally. An example of this is a multinational business that uses a WAN
to interconnect their offices in different countries. The largest and best example of a WAN is the
Internet, which is a network composed of many smaller networks. The Internet is considered the
largest network in the world. The PSTN (Public Switched Telephone Network) also is an
extremely large network that is converging to use Internet technologies, although not necessarily
through the public Internet.

Image 2: Wide area network (WAN) connection

A Wide Area Network involves communication through the use of a wide range of different
technologies. These technologies include Point-to-Point WANs such as Point-to-Point Protocol
(PPP) and High-Level Data Link Control (HDLC), Frame Relay, ATM (Asynchronous Transfer
Mode) and Sonet (Synchronous Optical Network). The difference between the WAN
technologies is based on the switching capabilities they perform and the speed at which sending
and receiving bits of information (data) occur.

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5.3 Wireless networks (WLAN, WWAN)

A wireless network is basically the same as a LAN or a WAN but there are no wires between
hosts and servers. The data is transferred over sets of radio transceivers. These types of
networks are beneficial when it is too costly or inconvenient to run the necessary cables. For
more information, see Wireless LAN and Wireless wide area network. The media access
protocols for LANs come from the IEEE.

The most common IEEE 802.11 WLANs cover, depending on antennas, ranges from hundreds
of meters to a few kilometers. For larger areas, either communications satellites of various types,
cellular radio, or wireless local loop

Image 3: Wireless networks (WLAN, WWAN) connection

QUESTION:

What kind of network used in your hostel?

• What kind of network used for commercially sold USB by Malaysia’s major
telecommunication company e.g. Maxis, Celcom?
• What do you understand about “broadband”?
What kind of network used by P1 Wimax?

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ETHERNET CABLES WIRING

6.0 How to wire Ethernet Cables

What You Need:

Required:

Ethernet Cable - bulk Category (Cat) 5, 5e, 6, 6a or higher ethernet cable

Wire Cutters - to cut and strip the ethernet cable if necessary
For Patch Cables:
o 8P8C Modular Connector Plugs ("RJ45")
o Modular Connector Crimper ("RJ45")
For Fixed Wiring:
o 8P8C Modular Connector Jacks ("RJ45")
o 110 Punch Down Tool

Recommended:

Wire Stripper
Cable Tester

6.1 About the Cable:

You can find bulk supplies of ethernet cable at many computer stores or most electrical or home
centers. You want UTP (Unshielded Twisted Pair) ethernet cable of at least Category 5 (Cat 5).
Cat 5 is required for basic 10/100 functionality, you will want Cat 5e for gigabit (1000BaseT)
operation and Cat 6 or higher gives you a measure of future proofing. You can also use STP
(Shielded Twisted Pair) for extra resistance to external interference but I won't cover shielded
connectors. Bulk ethernet cable comes in many types, there are 2 basic categories, solid and
braided stranded cable. Stranded ethernet cable tends to work better in patch applications for
desktop use. It is more flexible and resilient than solid ethernet cable and easier to work with, but
really meant for shorter lengths. Solid ethernet cable is meant for longer runs in a fixed position.
Plenum rated ethernet cable must be used whenever the cable travels through an air circulation
space. For example, above a false ceiling or below a raised floor. It may be difficult or impossible
to tell from the package or labelling what type of ethernet cable it is, so peal out an end and
investigate.

Here is what the internals of the ethernet cable look like:

Image 1: Internal Cable Structure and Color Coding

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Inside the ethernet cable, there are 8 color coded wires. These wires are twisted into 4 pairs of
wires, each pair has a common color theme. One wire in the pair being a solid or primarily solid
colored wire and the other being a primarily white wire with a colored stripe (Sometimes ethernet
cables won't have any color on the striped wire, the only way to tell which is which is to check
which wire it is twisted around). Examples of the naming schemes used are: Orange
(alternatively Orange/White) for the solid colored wire and White/Orange for the striped cable.
The twists are extremely important. They are there to counteract noise and interference. It is
important to wire according to a standard to get proper performance from the ethernet cable. The
TIA/EIA-568-A specifies two wiring standards for an 8-position modular connector such as RJ45.
The two wiring standards, T568A and T568B vary only in the arrangement of the colored pairs.
Tom writes to say "...sources suggest using T568A cabling since T568B is the AT&T standard,
but the US Government specifies T568A since it matches USOC cabling for pairs 1 & 2, which
allows it to work for 1/2 line phones...". Your choice might be determined by the need to match
existing wiring, jacks or personal preference, but you should maintain consistency. I've shown
both below for straight through cabling and just T568B for crossover cabling.

6.2 About Modular Connector Plugs and Jacks:

The 8P8C modular connectors for Ethernet are often called RJ45 due to their physical
ressemblance. The plug is an 8-position modular connector that looks like a large phone plug.
There are a couple variations available. The primary variation you need to pay attention to is
whether the connector is intended for braided or solid wire. For braided/stranded wires, the
connector has sharp pointed contacts that actually pierce the wire. For solid wires, the connector
has fingers which cut through the insulation and make contact with the wire by grasping it from
both sides. The connector is the weak point in an ethernet cable, choosing the wrong one will
often cause grief later. If you just walk into a computer store, it's nearly impossible to tell what
type of plug it is. You may be able to determine what type it is by crimping one without a cable.

Modular connector jacks come in a variety styles intended for several different mounting options.
The choice is one of requirements and preference. Jacks are designed to work only with solid
ethernet cable. Most jacks come labeled with color coded wiring diagrams for either T568A,
T568B or both. Make sure you end up with the correct one.

Here is a wiring diagram and pin out:

Image 2: Modular Connector Plug and Jack Pin Out

6.3 Ethernet Cable Pin Outs:

There are two basic ethernet cable pin outs. A straight through ethernet cable, which is used to
connect to a hub or switch, and a crossover ethernet cable used to operate in a peer-to-peer
fashion without a hub/switch. Generally all fixed wiring should be run as straight through. Some
ethernet interfaces can cross and un-cross a cable automatically as needed, a handy feature.

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Standard, Straight-Through Wiring Diagram (both ends are the same):

Image 3: Straight-Through Ethernet Cable Pin Out for T568A

Image 4: Straight-Through Ethernet Cable Pin Out for T568B

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Crossover Cable Wiring Diagram

Image 5: Crossover Ethernet Cable Pin Outs

6.4 How to wire Ethernet Patch Cables:

1. Strip off about 2 inches of the ethernet cable sheath.

2. Untwist the pairs - don't untwist them beyond what you have exposed, the more
untwisted cable you have the worse the problems you can run into.
3. Align the colored wires according to the wiring diagrams above.
4. Trim all the wires to the same length, about 1/2" to 3/4" left exposed from the sheath.
5. Insert the wires into the RJ45 plug - make sure each wire is fully inserted to the front of
the RJ45 plug and in the correct order. The sheath of the ethernet cable should extend
into the plug by about 1/2" and will be held in place by the crimp.
6. Crimp the RJ45 plug with the crimper tool.
7. Verify the wires ended up the right order and that the wires extend to the front of the
RJ45 plug and make good contact with the metal contacts in the RJ45 plug
8. Cut the ethernet cable to length - make sure it is more than long enough for your needs.
9. Repeat the above steps for the second RJ45 plug.

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6.4 How to wire fixed Ethernet Cables:

1. Run the full length of ethernet cable in place, from endpoint to endpoint, making sure to
leave excess.
2. At one end, cut the wire to length leaving enough length to work, but not too much
excess.
3. Strip off about 2 inches of the ethernet cable sheath.
4. Align each of the colored wires according to the layout of the jack.
5. Use the punch down tool to insert each wire into the jack.
6. Repeat the above steps for the second RJ45 jack.

If an ethernet cable tester is available, use it to verify the proper connectivity of the cable. That
should be it, if your ethernet cable doesn't turn out, look closely at each end and see if you can
find the problem. Often a wire ended up in the wrong place or one of the wires is making no
contact or poor contact. Also double check the color coding to verify it is correct. If you see a
mistake or problem, cut the end off and start again. A ethernet cable tester is invaluable at
identifying and highlighting these issues.

When sizing ethernet cables remember that an end to end connection should not extend more
than 100m (~328ft). Try to minimize the ethernet cable length, the longer the cable becomes, the
more it may affect performance. This is usually noticeable as a gradual decrease in speed and
increase in latency.

Question :

• What is the different between straight through wire cable and cross over wire cable?

• After doing the practical session of wire fixed cable, why is it important to make sure all
the colored wires are cut in the same length?

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