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Jwharah Alanazi
FA23HP1 African American Chefs & South
October 21, 2023
African American Chefs and Southern Foodways
Question 2
Based on the “Building Houses Out of Chicken Legs” reading, the most important points that the
writer examined revolve around the fact that chicken shaped the identity of black women in the
rural Virginian town. The waiter carriers who sold shoebox lunches to the railroad travelers used
chicken as an avenue for self-realization. The women were able to realize their own personhood
through making a living from selling the lunches. For instance, the writer’s own mother was able
to purchase their home through selling these lunches and saving up money (Williams-Forson
166). Not only were they able to make a living from selling the chicken, they were also able to
use chicken to define their personality. For example, the women were restricted from traveling
freely during the period immediately post-slavery. Thus, the women were able to send the
shoebox lunches.
I agree with the points made by the writer. The writer shows how the sale of chicken in
shoebox lunches was an important aspect in the lives of black women from their rural Virginian
town. In an era where the options were severely limited for black women in the US, the use of
chicken to achieve self-realization helped the women to carve a niche for themselves in their
societies (Williams-Forson 175). For example, the women were able to assert themselves
through the sale of chicken since it allowed them to resist the oppressive overtones associated
with being restricted from travel. Alternatively, the women were able to earn money despite the
obstacles that existed for people in their demographic group.
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The period in question was one where black people, especially women, faced several
difficulties as a result of the oppression that the white majority had placed on them even after
freedom had been secured. Thus, chicken played a prominent role in the lives of these black
women (Wallach).
Question 4
In William Frank Mitchell’s chapter 3 Cooking in “African American Food Culture”, the
major points he is making revolve around the fact that African American cuisine and the
associated habits have not changed much despite the constant changes that are seen elsewhere.
The shifting nature of America’s consumption patterns has popularized the use of pre-packaged
foods and those that are not labor-intensive. Additionally, this shifting nature has contributed
towards convenience being prioritized when it comes to food preparation – it is for this reason
that more Americans are increasingly buying food from neighborhood stores.
Conversely, African Americans have remained fiercely loyal to the traditional
consumption patterns that they have always practiced. The situation for African Americans has
been facilitated by continued black ownership of neighborhood restaurants and quick service
restaurant franchise (Mitchell 38). Furthermore, very few African Americans attend prestigious
culinary schools thus preventing them from changing their ways.
It relates to the food of the South. This is because the writer mentions several ways
through which Southern African American food has been integrated into mainstream American
food culture. For example, he states how small food distributors that traditionally focused on
African American foods such as Southern style vegetables are being paired with other foods
(Mitchell 38). Furthermore, African Americans in the South have had significant influence over
the culinary habits that American born blacks display besides just the types of food. The writer
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mentions “soulfood” to show how Southern style food culture has impacted upon American born
blacks (Belasco 8). Therefore, it is evident that the assertions made by the writer in this reading
have a great correlation with the food of the South.
Question 6
Based on the reading “Who Owns Southern Food”, the pro for John T. Edge is that the
article gives credit to historically marginalized groups that influenced Southern cuisine. The
writer opines that credit should be given to the Gullah and Geechee cultures whose culinary
activities helped to shape the food culture of the South (Edge & Tunde). These cultures have
existed on the Southern peninsula for almost three centuries where they have engaged in farming
and cooking in their own traditional ways. However, these cultures have seen their influence on
Southern cuisine downplayed by the white majority that is heavily involved in restaurants and
food distribution in the region. Instead, their influence on Southern cuisine has been appropriated
by this white majority while looking to appropriate this important cultural element ((Edge &
Tunde)). It is for this reason that Edge reports that Hillary Dixler’s essay was met with ire by this
white majority.
My position is that it is only rightful for the true influencers of Southern cuisine to
receive the credit they deserve. The Gullah and Geechee people, having been forcibly migrated
to the US during slavery, continue to be marginalized through cultural appropriation. It is
unquestionable that these groups heavily influenced Southern cuisine through their traditional
food culture. That the white majority in places such as Charleston refuse to acknowledge the role
they played in shaping Southern cuisine is therefore wrong (Lear 20).
There is need for these groups to receive the credit they deserve especially against the
backdrop of the fact that they have been unfairly treated from the moment they set food on
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American shores up to date. Therefore, I strongly believe that essays such as the one written by
Hillary Dixler should be allowed to stand because they provide some semblance of evidence for
the influence that historically marginalized groups have had.
Question 7
Privilege impacts the way people write about food, preferably the food of immigrants
based on the “Who Gets to – or Should – Tell the Stories of Immigrants and Their Foodways”
reading. This is because privileged individuals typically have all the required resources to make
their voices heard whereas immigrants are encumbered by various obstacles in their path to
speak out (Hills). The privileged white majority is not only able to tell the stories which
immigrants should rightfully tell, but even appropriate elements of their culture as seen in the
case of Korean proliferation in Montgomery, Alabama that was stated by one of the speakers
(Hills). Furthermore, immigrants are underrepresented in the circles where they would have been
allowed to speak out and share their own narratives. Therefore, authenticity has to be
compromised when the stories of immigrants and their foodways are told because they simply
cannot project their own voices within American space (Mitchell 44).
I agree that privilege impacts the way that immigrants’ stories and their foodways are
shared. The vast majority of people with access to the platforms that enable such sharing are
typically individuals who have no barriers to entry – this is obviously American nationals who
are not immigrants. Such people are therefore privileged because they can speak on behalf of
immigrants without even having first-hand knowledge of the subject matter they are writing
about.
It is for this reason that the writer asserts the importance of using a translator if one is to
speak about a language for which they are not native speakers (Hills). Nevertheless, the
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privileged non-immigrant writers continue to make statements on behalf of immigrants and their
foodways without using the translators spoken about in the article. For these reasons, I agree
with the statement that privilege has an impact on the way people write about the food of
immigrants.
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Works cited
Belasco, Warren James. Food: The Key Concepts. Bloomsbury Academic, 2018.
Hills, Samantha Weiss. “Who Gets to – or Should – Tell the Stories of Immigrants and Their
Foodways?” Food52, 2017. Accessed 21/10/2023
Edge, John T., & Tunde Wey. “Who Owns Southern Food?” Oxford American, 3 June 2016,
[Link]/magazine/issue-93-summer-2016/who-owns-southern-food.
Lear, Jane. “What is Southern?” Edna Lewis, 2018, pp. 17–26,
[Link]
Mitchell, William Frank. African American Food Culture, 2009,
[Link]
Wallach, Jennifer Jensen. How America Eats: A Social History of U.S. Food and Culture.
Rowman & Littlefield, 2014.
Williams-Forson, Psyche A. Building Houses out of Chicken Legs: Black Women, Food, and
Power. University of North Carolina Press, 2006.