Interlining:

Interlining is one kind of accessories which is used between two layers of fabric in garment to
support, reinforce and control areas of garments and to remain actual shape. It may be applied on
base fabric by sewing or bounding the fronts of jackets and coats.
The fabrics which are used as interlining are made from cotton, nylon, polyester, wool, and viscose
rayon or mixing of these different fibres. Woven or knitted fabric or non woven fabrics are used
for interlining.
Sometimes finishing is necessary to improve its properties i.e. shrink resist finish, crease resist
finish.

Objects of Interlining or Causes of Interlining used:

1. Interlining which is used in garment to support, reinforce and control areas of garments
and to retain actual drape of the component.
2. To make the particular component beautiful, strong and attractive.
3. Helps retain the shape of the fused part during use and after care treatment

Types of Interlining:
Two types of Interlining-
1. Sewn Interlining or Non fusible Interlining.
2. Fusible Interlining.

[Link] Interlining or Non fusible Interlining:

The interlining which could be fixed with the garments components by sewing that is called sewn
interlining. For the preparation of sewn interlining, a piece of fabric is treated with starch and
allowed to dry and finally sewn with main fabric.

Advantages of Sewn Interlining:

1. To make flame retardant garments.
 2. Simple and easy technique.
3. No elaborate machine is required.
4. Possible to use in steel or re-rolling or highly heated industries.

Disadvantage:
1. Quality is not good and appearance is not same to all garments as it is made by sewn.
2. Not suitable for large production.
3. Not available in market.
4. More time required.
5. It is complicated process with high work load and labour.

[Link] Interlining:
The interlining which could be fixed with the garment components by applying heat and pressure
for certain time that is called fusible interlining.
The term fusible interlining is used to describe a base fabric coated on one side with a thermoplastic
adhesive resin which can be bonded to another fabric by the controlled application of heat and
pressure.
Fusible Interlining is used to ensure a fixed shape, good strength and stability of a garment.

Construction
A fusible combines the following three factors in its construction –
Base material – Also called the substrate.

Thermoplastic resins – Synthetic resins melt when subjected to heat and revert to their original
solid state when cooled.

The following figure shows the basic construction of a fusible and illustrates how the resin is
disbursed into the top cloth when the two layers are bonded. The finished bond is referred to as a
laminate.

• For fusing recommended fusing temperature 165-170°C.

• Fusing time – 5 to 20 sec.
 • Pressure: Depends on fusing technique.

Advantage of Fusible Interlining:

1. Appearance, shape and quality same as other garments.
2. Available in the market.
3. Cheap.
4. Fusing time less, Labour cost is low. Production is high.
5. Overall performance is better than non-fusible interlining.
6. Easy technique and no need of special skilled operators
7. Fusible interlining assists as work aid.

Disadvantage of Fusible Interlining:

High temperature is required. So during attaching interlining special care needed.
Required properties of fusible interlining:
1. The fusing temperature needed must not be so high that it will damage the outer fabric
or its color. The usual maximum temperature 175°C, with 150°C most common.
2. The fusing temperature needed must not be so low that the bond between fabric and
interlining break off or open by force during washing and using. The lower limit is generally
110°C.
3. The resin must provide a bond which is suitably resistant to washing or dry cleaning.
4. The thermoplastic nature of the resin must be such that adjustment of temperature is
sufficient to permit it to penetrate the outer fabric to give a bond, without flowing excessively to
give strike through or strike back.
5. The resin must contribute to the achievement of the desired handle of the laminate.
6. It should not be hazard in health in processing and in end use.
7. Its color should be white in common cases and transparent. It must also have low dye
retention properties.
8. The color must not be changed the color of fused parts of garments during fusing
when temperature is applied. If it happens garments will be rejected due to defects of shade
matching of garments.
9. Generally, fusing is done at 150-170°C and some types of fabrics can be shrink at
that temperature. So that, proper care must need to avoid the shrinkage of the fabric during fusing
otherwise the garments will be small to the required size.

Types of Fusible Interlining:

On the basis of resin coating and its properties fusible interlining can be classified as follows:
1. Polyethylene coated.
2. Polyamide coated Interlining.
3. PVC coated Interlining.
 4. Polyester coated Interlining.
5. Polypropylene coated Interlining.
6. PVA coated Interlining.
7. Cellulose acetate coated Interlining.

1. Polyethylene coated Interlining:

▪ Here poly ethylene is used as resin coating.
▪ The effect of varying the density of the resin is to give a greater resistance to dry
cleaning solvents and a higher softening point with increasing density.
▪ It is used in collar, cuff of shirt.
▪ The fabric attached with this type of interlining can be washed by water.
2. Polyamide coated Interlining:
▪ Here polyamide is used as resin coating.
▪ Polyamides are very widely used in dry-cleanable garments.
▪ Polyamides in the higher temperature melting range generally washable up to 60°C,
but in the lower melting ranges they are dry-cleaned only.

3. PVC coated Interlining:

▪ Here PVC i.e. poly vinyl chloride is used as resin coating.
▪ It is both dry-cleanable and washable.
▪ This resin is generally printed on to base fabrics as a plasticized paste and type of
plastics used in this formation.

4. Polyester coated Interlining:

▪ Here polyester is used as resin coating.
▪ Polyester resins are used in garments which are dry-cleanable and washable
because polyester is less water absorbent than polyamide and therefore resist washing better.
▪ Could be used as in all types of garments.
▪ This is called ideal interlining.
▪ Available in the market.
▪ Expensive interlining.

5. Polypropylene coated Interlining:

▪ The resin is similar to the properties polyethylene interlining.
▪ Comparatively high fusing temperature.
▪ The fabric attached with this interlining can be washed with water.
▪ This makes it especially suitable for fusing applications where rapid, high
temperature drying is part of the garments laundering process.
 6. PVA coated Interlining:
▪ Here polyvinyl acetate (PVA) is used as resin coating on base fabric.
▪ It is not dry-cleanable and has limited wash ability.
▪ Low temperature and pressure are required.
▪ This resin is normally in the form of a continuous coating for fusing to leather.
▪ Not used in Garments Industry.

Choice of Resin type and Methods of coating depends on:

▪ Cost.
▪ Fusing characteristics.
▪ Suitability for use with particular fusing equipment.
▪ Durability when washing and dry-cleaning and particular garment end use.

Methods of Resin Coating:

The coating materials are applied on the fabric. The most popular methods are as follows-
1. Scatter Coating.
2. Dry dot Coating.
3. Paste Coating.
4. Film Coating.
5. Emulsion Coating.

1. Scatter Coating:
o Resin is sprayed on the base fabric by a spray head.
o The resin is then melted by heat and the resin is then softened in an over, pressed
on to the base fabric and cooled.
o The size of coating is 150 to 400 µ.
o This is the cheapest method of making a fusible but the product is not uniform nor
as flexible as printed coatings.

2. Dry dot Coating:

▪ The powder resin fills engraved holes on a roller. The base fabric passes over a
heated roller and then against the engraved roller.
 ▪ The powered resin adheres to the cloth in the form of dots. Oven heated follows the
printing operation to ensure permanent adhesion. Due to temperature the resin melts and due
to pressure of roller the resin sticks on the base fabric.
▪ The temperature and pressure on the two rollers is varied for different resin types.
▪ Patterns of dots can vary from 3 to 12 dots per cm according to the garment
manufacturer’s requirements.
▪ Generally lighter weight garments fabrics require interlining with smaller dots in
higher concentration, while heavier weight fabrics require larger dots in lower concentration
to allow good penetration into the fabric surface and gives a satisfactory bond.
▪ The size of resin molecules is 80 to 200 µ.
▪ Property of this type of interlining is all through uniform.

Figure: Dry dot Coating

3. Paste Coating:
Resin powder is converted into a paste by the use of chemicals and water. Then the paste
is printed on the base fabric. Then by applying temperature water and chemicals are
evaporated from the base fabric. Very fine dots are produced by printing technique with
resin size 1 to 80 microns. The properties of this type of fused interlining with resin are all
through uniform.

Figure: Paste coating.

4. Film Coating:
▪ Normally polyethylene resin coating is used much in this methods.
▪ Flexibility is less in film coated interlining.
▪ In this method, resin which is melted by temperature is used as a thin layer on the
base fabric.
 5. Emulsion Coating:
▪ Resin powder is mixed with water and chemicals to form an emulsion.
▪ Emulsion coating, for instance by dipping the base fabric into a bath of emulsion,
squeezing out excess resin by rolling and drying in an oven to produce double sided coatings.
▪ Hard Interlining.

Figure: Emulsion Coating

Conditions of Fusing:
The process of fusing must fulfill the following conditions:
1. Lusture:
The laminate produced by fusing should show the aesthetic qualities required by the
designer in the finished garments. Especially which fusible interlining would be used for which
fabric should be determined carefully otherwise would not get desirable result.
2. Strength:
The strength of bond of the laminate must be sufficient so that fabric of interlining would
not be separate from garments fabric during fabric preparation, using of fabric and washing the
fabric. It is essential to be durability till life time of the garments. This type of fault causes due to
under fuse or problem of determining the interlining.

3. Correct fusing:
Fusing must take place without either strike through or strike back. During fusing the
fused resin can come the front by penetrating the garments fabrics is called strike through. If the
melted resins come towards below of the interlining fabric by penetrating is called strike back.
Both strike back and strike through are harmful for garments and fusing machine.

4. Compression by temperature:
Fusing range should be 150 to 170 °C and fabrics can be shrinkage in that temperature.
During fusing, must careful so that fabric cannot be shrinkage otherwise create problem in
garments preparation and produced fabric will be smaller than desirable size.
 5. Color of the fabric:
During fusing the color of the fused parts of the garments must not be changed. If the
color of the fused parts be changed, it would be refused due to shade matching of garments.

6. Similarity in external shape:

Pile of fused parts of fabric can be bent because of applying both heat and pressure during
fusing. If pile bends due to pressure, fused and unfused fabrics, after making garments, can be seen
difference in external shape. Must careful so that similarity in external appearance would not be
damage due to fusing.

7. Special Characteristics:
The fusing process must not cause the destruction of special properties of fabric that has
been developed during finishing.

Types of Fusing:
1. Reverse Fusing:
In this process, the fabric of interlining is spread on the fusing bed and the part consists of
resin is directed upward. Then the fabric of garments is spread on the resonated part of fabric and
fusing is done there. This is called reverse fusing. In this process, the area of interlining is
comparatively small than the fabric of apparel, as a result, proper spreading is difficult here.
It is sometimes used in fusing shirt and blouse collars and this method is used in flat-bed process.

2. Sandwich Fusing:
Generally, fusing is done by a continuous fusing machine where the heat is applied from both sides
of the fabric. In this process, two pairs of fabrics are fused i.e. the two interlinings are placed
between or in the middle of two fabrics of apparel. If the heat and pressure are not applied properly
then four layers may be joined due to the effect of striking back during fusing. By using this
process, the production can be increased but needs more time. It may have unsatisfactory
infused garments.
3. Double fusing:
▪ In this method, two types of interlining are attached to the outer fabric by fusing at
a time.
▪ It is applied on shirt collars and men’s jacket fronts.
Defects of Fusing Process:
There are mainly two types of faults found during fusing. Those are explained below:
1. Striking back:
When two parts of fabrics are joined by pressure and heat during fusing, it must have control of
the temperature and pressure. Sometimes the pressure and heat are not controlled properly during
fusing so that the resin is passed through the lower part of the fabric. It is called striking back.
2. Striking through:
When two parts of fabrics are joined by pressure and heat during fusing, it must have control of
the temperature and pressure. Sometimes the pressure and heat are not controlled properly during
fusing so that the resin is passed through the upper part of the fabric. It is called striking through.

Quality Control in Fusing or Point should be considered before fusing:

Factors on which the quality of fusible interlining depends:
1. Temperature:
▪ Fusing temperature depends on types of fusing. Too low a temperature gives poor
flow and poor subsequent adhesion. Too high a temperature gives too much flow, resulting is
strike back and strike through and a reduction of performance.
▪ Fusing range is 150 to 170 °C.

2. Pressure:
▪ The pressure should be uniform and sufficient during fusing. If not, some place will
fuse in different manner and the fused fabrics will not possess uniform bond strength i.e. the
strength between fused interlining and fabric will not be uniform.
▪ Too low a pressure reduces penetration with consequent low adhesion. Too high a
pressure provides excessive penetration of resin resulting in strike back and strike through.
 3. Fusing time:
▪ The equipment must give enough time to allow the temperature and pressure to
induce melting of the resin and penetration of the outer fabric in order to produce a satisfactory
bond. Different fabric requires different time for fusing.
▪ Coarser fabric requires more time but finer fabric requires less time.
▪ To check time of fusing, stop watch is used.

4. Dry cleaning or Washing:

o To check again after washing or dry cleaning with water of fused parts.
o Specially to check changing appearance or changing bond strength by washing
or dry cleaning.

Machines of fusing:
1. Hand Iron.
2. Flat bed fusing press.
3. Continuous fusing press.
4. High frequency fusing.

1. Hand Iron:
Only those interlinings which can be fused at relatively low temperatures, low pressures and in
relatively short times are at all suitable for fusing by hand iron. There are a number of difficulties.
The operator cannot know the temperature at the glue line and cannot apply pressure uniformly.
The operator estimates the time subsequently. Only small parts can be fused.
In this method, fusing of interlining is done by hand iron to small components like cuff, collar. In
this method, pressure heat and time can not be controlled so correctly.
For this, for good result, finished fusing is done again after hand iron. Otherwise bond strength
between interlining and fabric would be opened during washing or using.

Advantages:
▪ Easy technique.
▪ Initial cost is low.
▪ Suitable for domestic purpose.
▪ Less temperature, less pressure is required.

Disadvantages:
▪ Not possible to control heat, time and pressure.
▪ Quality is not good.
▪ Low bond strength.
▪ Less production.
 ▪ Not suitable for industrial production.

2. Flat Bed Fusing Press:

Machine description
In this machine, there are two beds; one bed is fixed called ‘BUCK’ and the other is moveable
called ‘HEAD’. The interlining and garment component are positioned first and placed on the
BUCK. Due to switch operation, the HEAD moves downward and comes in contact to BUCK
and creates pressure on the component (interlining). Temperature is applied through HEAD and
after a certain time the HEAD moves upward. Heating system may be electrical or steam.
Application temperature, pressure and time could be pre-set in this machine; hence fusing
conditions are maintained properly.
o .

Working principle:
• At first the part of garments to be fused would be spread over flatly on buck and then the
resin coated interlining is placed on it correctly.
• The head is gradually lowered on buck by switch and the required pressure is applied and
heating is done uniformly on the surface of buck.
• Head is separated from buck after applying heat and pressure till predetermined time.
• Then for cooling of the fused parts
• The suction chamber sucks air from the buck.
• After sucking the air, the interlining becomes cold and fuses in the fabrics permanently.

The method of lowering head on buck may be two types-

• Vertical action and
• Scissor action.
In vertical action press, uniform pressure is got. The applied pressure of head on buck is controlled
by mechanically, hydraulically. The operations of head and sucking air into the buck are set in
cyclic order. Temperature, pressure and fusing time are set at any time.

Advantage:
▪ Temperature, pressure and fusing time adjustable.
▪ Easier process and most commonly used.
▪ Low cost.
▪ Tends to reduce fabric shrinkage.
▪ Conventional.
Disadvantage:
▪ Not suitable for large scale production.
▪ Needs checking of fusing condition after certain period.

3. Continuous fusing Press machine:

Machine description
• The machine consists of a fusing chamber with continuous belt or feed sheet.
• The heating chamber is controlled by a switch.
• Two pressure rollers are in the fusing chamber and roller pressure are produced by spring
or pneumatic power and have condition to increase or decrease of required heat.

Working principle:

Working Procedure of Continuous Fusing Press Machine in Apparel Sector:

Total working principles of a continuous fusing press m/c in the apparel manufacturing industry
have discussed below:
• Firstly, interlining is placed between the two layers of fabrics.
 • After that, apparel parts and interlining are placed on the revolving feed sheet of the fusing
machine.
• The conveyor belt carries the components to the fusing chamber.
• Here, the fusing machine is carried out in the entire fusing chamber.
• The necessary amount of heat is applied in the interlining infusing chamber.
• By using two pressure rollers, the required amount of pressure is also applied here. The
surface of the roller is generally covered by hard rubber.
• The fusing chamber controls all the necessary fusing temperature and pressure and the total
fusing time is controlled by controlling the speed of the feed sheet.
• In this stage, all the fused components are transferred to the delivery revolving sheet.
• One operator is ready to collect those components here.
• An operator is continuously feeding fused components here on the feeding side of the
fusing machine.
• Another operator continuously receiving the fused components in the delivery side of the
continuous fusing press m/c.

Advantages:
▪ Mostly used in country.
▪ Higher production.
▪ Good quality fusing.
▪ Very suitable for pile fabric using.
▪ Pressure is applied between interlining & fabric for less time.
▪ No possibility of fabric shrinkage.
▪ Less possibility of pile destroyed.

Disadvantages:
▪ High cost.
▪ Large space required.
▪ Different bond strength of fused parts.
High frequency Fusing machine:
 • The machine consists of two metal plates separated by springs from two sides.
• In this machine heat is created like microwave cooker.
• In this method, the layers of interlinings are kept between metal plates, each interlining
placed between two pieces of based fabrics. The spring height is generally 6 to 8 cm.
• Heat is passed to the metal plates and the upper plate is lowered by compressing the spring
and fusing is done.
But this machine is not used now a day because of un- uniform heating, the interlining near the
metal plate get more heat & those in the middle get less heat. (Time = 1 to 3 min.)

Advantages:
▪ Large no of interlining can be fused together at a time.
▪ High production.
▪ 1 to 3 minutes times required for fusing.

Disadvantages:
▪ Problem in proper setting of the machine.
▪ Over fusing and under fusing.
▪ Insufficient of bond strength due to under fusing.
▪ Prepare a strong block due to over fusing.

Lining:
Lining are generally a functional part of a garment, an accessories. They are available as warp
knits but they are predominately woven are made from polyester, polyamide, acetate, viscose for
use where a slippery material is required and from cotton & wool mixtures where decoration or
warm handle required.
Lining material can be used for small parts- pockets & for complete garments, either fully bagged
out. It can be used coat, jacket & raincoats, body & sleeve, for ladies items such as blouse, frock
etc.

Objects:
1. To maintain the shape of garments.
2. To improve hang & comfort by allowing it to slide over other garments.
3. To add insulation.
 4. To cover the inside of a garment of complicated construction to make it neat.
5. They are selected to match the garments to be unobtrusive.
6. To add the design of garments.

Difference between Lining & Interlining:

Lining Interlining
1. It is used inside of garments 1. It is used between two layers
or garment components. of fabric.
2. It is attached by sewing. 2. It is attached by sewing or
applying heat and pressure.
3. No coating is used. 3. Coating is used.
4. Finishing is not necessary. 4. Sometimes finishing is
necessary to improve its
properties e.g. shrink resist
finish. Crease resists finish.

5. It is used in coat, rain coat, 5. It is used mainly collar, cuff,

over coat, pocket flap, kids facing, front of jacket, waist
garments, jacket etc. band, front part of coat.
Lining Interlining
6. No types 6. It is two types-
a) Sewn Interlining.
b) Fusible Interlining.
7. It is used to increase hang 7. To support, reinforce and
and comfort of garments. control areas of garments
and to retain actual shape.

Difference between Fusing and Non-fusing Interlining:

No. Fusible interlining Non-fusible interlining

1. Labor cost is low. Labor cost is high.

2. Processing time is less. Processing time is more.

3. Elaborate machine is required. No elaborate machine is required.

4. Available in market. Not available in market.

5. It is cheap. It is not cheap.

6. Suitable for large production. Not suitable for large production.

7. High temperature is required. Temperature is not required.