LASER GO-FAST TIP #1:

Read This Rigging Guide First.

Laser Radial Laser 4.7

Laser Rigging Guide

Congratulations on the purchase of your new Laser! The Laser is a very unique boat that can accommodate many different sized sailors and abilities, due to its three interchangeable rigs. The Laser, the Radial and the Laser 4.7 all use the same hull and equipment with the exception of the lower mast and sail. We suggest that you read through this guide to better familiarize yourself with the parts and rigging of your new boat. If you have any questions please contact your dealer or call LaserPerformances customer service at 1-800-966-SAIL.

Unpacking and Preparation: Laser, Radial & Laser 4.7 Standard Delivery Kit
9 1 16 2 10 13 17 11 14

Depending of which Laser you have selected (Laser, Radial or Laser 4.7) you will have one of the following sails and corresponding lower masts located in your delivery kit. 3 4 5 7 8 Image 1 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

12 Image 2

15

Image 1 Above from left to right: Laser sail, Radial sail, Laser 4.7 sail

Sail Numbers Line Bag Tiller with 33 extension Rudder Daggerboard Battens Boom Upper mast Large traveler block

10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17.

Small traveler block Large vang block Small vang block Vang Key Mainsheet ratchet block Spring Bullseye fairlead Clam cleat

Unpacking and Preparation: Laser, Radial & Laser 4.7 Pro Delivery Kit
1 2 9 11 12 10 Image 2 14 16 13 17 18 20 22 15 19 21

Image 2 3 5 4 Above from left to right: Laser lower mast, Radial lower mast, and Laser 4.7 lower mast. 7 8

Your boat rigged will resemble one of the Lasers shown above. From left to right: Laser, Radial, and Laser 4.7.

Locate your delivery kit. Depending on which model you have purchased (Pro or Standard) there will be a few differences in some of the hardware. The differences between the two models are the cunningham, outhaul, vang and tiller extension. Using images 1 or 2, identify the contents of your kit. To avoid damaging the contents, be sure not to cut into the packaging inside the box. Image 2

1. Sail Numbers 2. Line Bag 3. Tiller with 48 extension 4. Rudder 5. Daggerboard 6. Battens 7. Boom 8. Upper mast 9. Cleat base with cleats 10. Lower vang block/cleat assembly 11. Mainsheet ratchet block

12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19.

Spring Forkhead block base 16 mm Forkhead blocks (2) Large traveler block Small traveler block Vang key Pin and ring Double micro block with becket (2) 20. Small double block with becket 21. Micro block with becket (2) 22. Micro single block (2)

Useful Knots to Know:

Leech Luff
Figure 8 Knot or Stopper Knot

Nautical Terminology: Port: Left side of the boat when looking forward Starboard: Right side of the boat when looking forward Gunwale: Upper edge of a boats side Leeward: Direction away from the wind Windward: Direction from which the wind is coming

Clew Boom
Square Knot

Foot of the Sail

Tack

Stern Tiller Traveler

Bowline

Mainsheet

Mast

Cockpit Rudder Gunwale Boom Vang

Port Side

Bow
Clove Hitch

Daggerboard Starboard Side

Cleat

Here is a list of tools that we recommend you have in order to assemble your new Laser:

Hardware Location:
There are a few pieces of hardware that you will need to install on your new hull before continuing to rig your Laser. Locate the two sets of screws that are positioned on the deck of the boat (Figure A, far right image). One set of screws will be forward of the daggerboard well (Figure 1) while the other set will be aft of the mast step (Figure 2). Tip: Before replacing the screws be sure to dip them into a silicon based sealant to allow for a water tight and secure fit.

Daggerboard Well

Figure A Bailer Plug

Ratchet Block Eyestrap Mast Step Daggerboard Well Bow eye

Figure 1

Utility Knife

Mast Step

Hiking Strap Traveler

Figure 2

Clam Cleat

Hardware Installation: Laser Standard Models

1. In the delivery kit locate the bullseye fairlead and the clam cleat. Unscrew the two screws located by the mast step (Figure 3). Align the bullseye fairlead over the two holes and screw into place (Figure 4).

Hardware Installation: Laser Pro Models

1. From the delivery kit locate the 2, 16mm forkhead blocks and base. Unscrew the two screws located by the mast step. Align the block base over the holes and screw into place (Figure 9). Attach the forkhead blocks to the base using the provided pins and rings (Figure 10). Reminder: Before replacing the screws be sure to dip them into a silicon based sealant to allow for a water tight and secure fit. 2. In the delivery kit locate the cleat base with cleats. Unscrew the two screws located by the daggerboard well. Align the cleat base over the two holes and screw into place (Figure 11). Make sure that the shorter of the metal fairleads are facing the bow. When looking at the cleat base from the side, the cleats should be angled down towards the bow (Figure 12). Reminder: Before replacing the screws be sure to dip them into a silicon based sealant to allow for a water tight and secure fit. Figure 6 Figure 11 3. Locate the ratchet block and spring from the delivery kit. In the cockpit, at the forward end of the hiking strap, locate the eyestrap (Figure 13). 4. Remove the shackle from the bottom of the ratchet block and place it around the eyestrap (Figure 13). 5. Place the spring over the eyestrap, and compress. While the spring is compressed, attach the block to the shackle with the pin and ring (Figure 14). Block Base

16 mm Forkhead Blocks

White Electrical Tape

Reminder: Before replacing the screws be sure to dip them into a silicon based sealant to allow for a water tight and secure fit.

Figure 3

Figure 4

Figure 9 Shorter metal fairleads

Figure 10

Phillips Head Screwdriver

2. Unscrew the set of screws located in front of the daggerboard well. Align the holes of the cam cleat and screw into place (Figure 5). Be sure that the open end of the cleat is facing towards the cockpit (Figure 6). Figure 5 Open end Reminder: Before replacing the screws be sure to dip them into a silicon based sealant to allow for a water tight and secure fit.

Angled down towards mast

Figure 12

Silicone Sealant

3. Locate the ratchet block and spring from the delivery kit. In the cockpit, at the forward end of the hiking strap, locate the eyestrap (Figure 7). 4. Remove the shackle from the bottom of the ratchet block and place it around the eyestrap (Figure 7). 5. Place the spring over the eyestrap, and compress. While the spring is compressed, attach the block to the shackle with the pin and ring (Figure 8).

Figure 7

Figure 8

Figure 13

Figure 14

Rigging the Traveler: Laser Standard Models

Port side of the line goes through the clam cleat Tie off the starboard line with a bowline

Rigging the Traveler: Laser Pro Models

Clam Cleat

Clam Cleat

Port Fairlead

Starboard Fairlead

Port Fairlead

Starboard Fairlead

Small Traveler Block

Small Traveler Block

Figure B: Rigged Laser Standard Traveler

Figure C: Rigged Laser Pro Traveler Line

1. Locate the traveler line and small traveler block from the delivery kit. On the stern of the boat locate the two fairleads (Figure B).

Stern

1. Locate the traveler line and small traveler block from the delivery kit. On the stern of the boat locate the two fairleads (Figure C). 2. Run one end of traveler line through the starboard fairlead (from bow to stern), then through the small traveler block and continue through the port side fairlead (from stern to bow, Figure 20). Bow 3. Tie a bowline in the port side of the traveler line (Figure 20). Lead the starboard end of the line through the bowline and pull until snug (Figure 21).

Bowline

2. Run one end of traveler line through the starboard fairlead (from bow to stern, Figure 15), then through the small traveler block (Figure 16) and continue through the port side fairlead (from stern to bow, Figure 16). Figure 15 Starboard Side Port Side Figure 16

Figure 20

Figure 21

3. Make a loop in the port side of the line as if you were going to tie a bowline (Figure 17). Keeping in mind that the free end of the port side line will be cleated off. Take the starboard end of the line and complete the bowline by going through the port loop (Figure 18). 4. Continue the tail end of the port side line through the cleat and tie off with a bowline handle (Figure 19).

4. With the starboard end of the line tie an overhand knot to secure the line (Figure 22).

5. With the tail end of the line, lead it through the cleat and tie off with a bowline handle (Figure 23). Figure 17 Figure 22 Figure 18 Figure 19 Figure 23

Rigging the Mast: Standard and Pro Models

1. Locate the sail, battens, boom, upper and lower mast from your delivery kit. Remove your sail from the sail bag and have the three battens handy. Your battens should comprise of: Two long and one short (Figure 24). Stepping the Mast 1. Make sure the bow of the boat is pointing into the wind and that their are No Overhead Electrical Wires in the Area! Also make sure that the mast step hole and mast butt are perfectly clean; any sand or dirt in the mast step will grind into the gelcoat and can damage the mast step. 2. Place the mast butt against a flat solid object. By placing a towel or piece of cardboard on the ground it will help prolong the life of the plastic mast butt. 3. Lift the mast from the head of the sail and walk toward the mast butt, raising the mast hand over hand until vertical. 4. Make sure that the gooseneck is facing the stern of the boat before lifting. Closed end Figure 26 5. Keeping your hands a good distance apart, lift the mast over the mast step hole (Figure D). 6. Allow the mast to slide into the step. Do not drop the mast into the step for it will cause damage! 7. Remove any wraps in the sail sleeve. Gooseneck Pin Figure 27 Figure 28

Figure 24

Tip: When unfolding sail, make sure that the area is free of sharp objects that could damage the sail! To ensure the batten tips do not fall off inside the pocket when the battens are removed, it is suggested that you tape the batten tips.

2. Unfold the sail. Starting from the head of the sail locate the top batten pocket. Insert the smallest of the three battens into the top batten pocket (Figure 25). 3. When inserting the batten into the pocket, you will be applying pressure against elastic located in the end of the pocket. As you press against the elastic, slide the batten in and down so that the tip rests in the closed end of the pocket (Figure 26). To remove: press the end into the elastic, and slide the tip to the open end of the pocket. 4. Continue down the sail, inserting the two remaining battens. Note: Before folding the sail make sure to remove the battens.

Pocket opening

Figure 25

Figure D: Stepping the Mast

5. Slide the top section of the mast into the lower section until the top sections plastic collar is snug against the aluminum of the lower section. 6. Find the opening in the sail sleeve located at the foot of the sail (Figure 27). Slide the sleeve of the sail over the mast, aligning the cunningham grommet with the gooseneck and removing any twists in the sleeve (Figure D). Tip: The head of the sail does not rotate easily on the masthead, so it is suggested to align the head of the sail with the gooseneck before stepping the mast (Figure D).

Attaching the Boom:

Cunningham Grommet Class Sail Button 1. Before attaching the boom locate the outhaul line from the delivery kit line bag. Insert the gooseneck pin into the forward end of the boom and walk aft, exerting pressure towards the mast, to keep it in place (Figure 28). Boom