Waves
Waves
• An up and down
movement of the ocean’s
surface.
• Mostly caused by winds
(Also earthquakes,
volcanoes, grav. pull)
• Form of great energy
Wave Characteristics
• Crest = high point
• Trough = low point
• Height = vertical distance
from crest to trough
Wave Characteristics
•Wavelength = Horizontal distance between crest to crest
or trough to trough
•Period = The time it takes for successive crests or troughs
to pass a specific point.
•Frequency = The number of crests or troughs that pass a
point during a set time interval.
Wave Size
• The size of a wave that
is generated by wind
depends on 3 things:
1. Wind Speed
2. Wind Duration (length
of time wind blows)
3. “Fetch” (span of open
water across which the
wind can blow)
Water Motion in Waves
• Water travels in circular
orbits.
• Wave is a form of energy
that moves across the
water – water isn’t moving
horizontally, only up and
down.
Water Motion in Waves
• Wave motion lessens as depth increases.
• At a depth of ½ the wavelength, there is no more wave
motion.
• Waves ‘crash’ when the bottom of them hits the ocean
floor (they slow down and then collapse).
Importance of Waves
• Shape coastlines
• Erode cliffs.
• Grind rock into sand.
• Ecology
• Return O2 to water
• Stir up food for filter
feeders.
Tsunami
• Giant wave generated by a disturbance in the Earth’s crust
(undersea earthquake, landslide, eruption).
• Energy from underwater disturbance reaches the ocean’s
surface and results in high-speed waves.
Creation of a Tsunami
• Waves get larger as they come closer to land.
• As tsunami reaches shore, speed slows and wave height
increases.
Tsunamis