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TP No. 2: WEAVING
Raw Material

1. GENERALITIES ON WEAVING:

Weaving is intertwining threads from spinning in the same plane.

arranged in the lengthwise direction of the fabric, the warp, and threads arranged
perpendicular to the warp threads, in the width direction, which constitute Chain son Son of the fabric

the plot.
Thus, we distinguish two distinct cycles for the threads involved in
the weaving operation: The preparation for the warp element and for the element Winding
trame.
Winding
For this, the operations from the spinning to weaving are
Ourdissage
referred to by the generic term "preparation for weaving". This step aims to
to present the textile threads in shapes suitable for weaving according to the
structure and appearance of the fabric.
Collage
For the cable element, the wires must be:
Cannetage

- Able to withstand weaving operations.

- Exempts from impurities. Reunion
- Rolled parallel to each other to form a sheet
homogeneous.
- Arranged according to a particular design.
Smoothing

Regarding the frame element, it must be:

Roughing and combing
- Eventually free from superficial impurities.
or Knot
- Presented on an appropriate medium to the frame vector.

The general process of this preparation can be illustrated by the diagram

following:
Weaving

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Armor Pris (n.m)

Designation of the crossing mode ofson of a chainand from [Link] is Passage of the threadthe
chainabove thea [Link] thearmora price is represented
represented conventionally on graph paper. We represent in by a colored square.
general the smallest interlacing pattern entabout the wiresandthe duties,who, repeated at Withdrawal Framework (n.m)
himself gives thethe fabric. Difference between the length of adueextracted from afabricand the length of the fabric
Chain (f) which contained this duct. The withdrawal frame is expressed as a percentage of the length
Set ofsonparallel in the sense of the advancement of the fabric in the course of manufacturing. of tissue. The termthe drinkpreferred for the designation of the same notion in
Duit(e) (f) chain.
Wire placed in a fabric perpendicular to theedges.A duet is a piece Tissue (n.m)
dthe plotswho goes from one edge to the other. Fabricformed by the perpendicular crossing of two sets of wires
Beverage (n.m) (chainandTrame.
Difference between the length of afilextract from a fabric and the length of the fabric that Frame (f)
this thread contained. The embuvage is expressed as a percentage of the length of the fabric. The The weft refers to the thread that is used in the perpendicular direction of thetissueso
termthe withdrawal framewill be preferred for the designation of the same notion in framework. perpendicular to thea chain.
Empeignage (n.m)
Width occupied pthe threads of the chainon the weaving machine. The upper part is 2. PREPARATION FOR WEAVING:
generally higher than thethe [Link] gap between the two is expressed by thethe withdrawal
plot.
fabric WINDING
Textile article presenting a large surface in relation to its thickness, consisting of
by an entanglement of textile materials of all kinds, having a certain
cohesion conferred by any method of manufacturing (weaving, knitting, laying, The winding aims to unwind the yarn coming from the spinning and to wind it up
fineness, etc...). perfect and continuous fashion on a cone after purification: elimination of certain
wire(n.m) defects, such as thicknesses, thinnesses, pimples, and impurities.
In a fabric, the term thread refers to a thread ofthe chainso a wire placed in the direction
of the length of the fabric. If the winding is not essential, it is nonetheless necessary since the
Leave (n.m) the length of wire thus wound can reach a maximum in weight and footage,
Passage of the thread fromchainbelow
[Link] thearmora leash is simply limited by the organs of the bobbin. This continuous thread, of a length
represented by an uncolored square. considerable, will facilitate and accelerate production in the winding by providing
Laize (n.f) couplings of great length in a minimum time.
Width of a fabric, from one edge to the other. We distinguish the total width which includes theit It should be noted that the winding slightly modifies the appearance of the wire, particularly in this
margins,the useful width which is the width of the fabric without theit is edges,the fallen width of
which concerns hairiness.
trade (just after weaving) and the finished width (after finishing).
Border (f)
Wireor group ofand sonsforming the edge of thetissueon each side of its width,
when this thread or this group of threads differs from the rest of the fabric, either by the nature of the thread,
either by its connection system or by itsarmor.

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- The variation in footage if the chain is glued.

- The waste (losses) on the warper, on the glueing machine and on the machine to
to weave.
To take these parameters into account, it is necessary to perform what is called a calculation.
of employment or supply.

OURDISSAGE

The warping aims to transform the threads into a chain, by arranging them one after another.
on the other side, a number of wires, more or less important, of equal length and
of the same tension. The wires follow one another in an order established by the sheet (or plug)
of warping, to present oneself in the same arrangement during the setup
work on the weaving machine.

The winding, regardless of the machine or method to be used, cannot be

to do so by fraction. This fractioning will be done according to two methods, either;

- We will divide the chain into several horizontal layers that we

will overlap to ultimately form the weaving ensouple; that is what we
calls direct or classic weaving.
- We will break the chain into sections of small widths that we
will then roll them side by side on a large drum. It is
the sectional warping.
Before starting the warping operation, it is essential to mention on the sheet
during warping the exact footage to be warped, taking into account several parameters
like:

- The brewing.

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NOUAGE

When planning to supply the loom with a new identical warp.

Old-fashioned, we can tie the chains thread by thread instead of doing it every time.
new the operation of re-entry and comb stitching: it is the tying.

The two chains are superimposed and stretched on a tying frame. This frame
allows you to prepare both chains quickly and comfortably.

The tying machine passes transversely over two sheets by

knotting yarn by yarn. The knotting speed can reach 600 knots per minute.
knotting machines are typically equipped either with a mechanical system or
Surveillance electronics for double wires for chains with or without extensions.
Other machines stop automatically and announce in which layer it is. RENTAGE
the defect occurred. When the chain admits a color ratio, it is important to
tie with envy.
The re-entry involves bringing in the wires one by one in a predetermined order.
of chain in the eyelets of the slats of a harness. The threads entered are then
poked in the pins of the comb: This is combing. It is called
Broach: the distance between two consecutive teeth.

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To carry out the repatriation operation, we can proceed with either a: 3. DIFFERENT MECHANISMS OF THE TRADE A
- Manual threading: necessity of having two workers. One who gives the thread,
TISSER :
the other, using a strainer, he makes it enter the eyelets of the
smooth, according to the type of re-entry: follow-up, jumped, etc...
- Semi-automatic retraction: a worker plus a machine.
- Automatic retraction: no manual intervention during work.

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In front of the remis body, all the wires pass through the comb (E), organ
mechanism made of very thin and polished steel blades (teeth), whose role is to
distribute the yarn threads within the fabric's execution width and also of
tighten the frame; the comb is supported by the leaf.
There are a multitude of possible combinations for crossing the wires of
chain and frame, but the three basic armors are:
the canvas or solid armor;
the serge fabric that produces a diagonal line effect;
the satin finish that gives a smoother and shinier surface.
All types of fabric stem from these three basic weaves, and the fabric
The "jacquard" combines several types of weave within the same fabric. By using
colored threads, the jacquard weave allows for very complex patterns and even the
image reproduction.

4. DIFFERENT TYPES OF INSERTION OF THE

FRAME :

The main contribution of modern jobs is the elimination of commuting: the

jobs without shuttles. Among the first is a Swiss invention that
Diagram of a weaving loom replace the shuttle with an arrow. Instead of carrying its own supply of thread, this
Arrow goes to get it from a stock and makes it pass through the threshold.
Another important type of shuttleless weaving is fluid jet weaving which
The chain (A), the number of strands of which varies depending on the type and quality. use a high-pressure air or water current to pass the frame wire to
the fabric to be woven is prepared on a machine called a warping machine, then folded, through the step. These trades can insert up to 1500 weft threads per minute.
that is to say wrapped around a large wooden cylinder called a chain roll or
suspended, fixed at the back of the machine (B). Shuttle weaving looms:
For the execution of a fabric, the warp threads are separated into two layers forming
an angle wide enough for the frame (C) to be introduced into it
There are two types of shuttle weaves: traditional weaves and weaves
with the help of the shuttle, the threads passing alternately either above the warp or mechanics.
below, according to a predetermined order. The choice of the sequence of the threads that
In a manual trade, the insertion is done by hand. The weaver passes the
raised or lowered, called armor, is determined by the type of fabric that one
shuttle containing a spool of weft thread through the warp. After each
desire to manufacture.
the weft yarn, individually called weft, is pressed against the
To activate the chain threads, they are threaded through links that
previously by moving a fine comb forward.
are grouped in frames or smooth surfaces, which together form the body of the clubhouse
or remission (D).

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The first step towards the mechanization of the weaving profession was the invention of the In this case, we distinguish two types of frame transfer: Single lance without
flying shuttle, patented by the British inventor J. Kay in 1733. This shuttle transfer, with frame insertion and by double lances with transfer and insertion of
was composed of a lever mechanism that made it move along the loom. frame.
The first mechanical profession was developed by another British person, E. In single launch machines, the latter traverses the entire
Cartwright in 1786, with an aspect very close to manual labor (using the crowd, equipped with a clamp, grabs the weft thread on the opposite side and inserts it during
saber-tack system for the back-and-forth movement of the shuttle. his return movement.
The shuttle moves at an average speed of 165 beats per minute, in a The second technique involves inserting the weft thread into the fabric's crowd at the
profession with a 135 cm rise, the shuttle moves from a hunting box to way of two lances (giver and taker) with exchange of the end of the thread
the other in 1/6 of a second, the time during which the latch acts on the shuttle in the center of the fabric. In this case, there are rigid spears and flexible spears.
to launch it from one side to the other of the wing and 1/36 of a second.

The lance weaving machines:

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Projectile weaving machines:

A steel projectile, with a clamp, approximately 10 cm long and having a mass of

40 g, insert the weft thread into the crowd. This type of machine achieves
performances that place it at the top of weaving machines. Indeed, this machine
allows inserting a frame at a speed of 1400 m/min over 4 m wide.
A firing mechanism strikes the projectile with a lever, which then travels through
the crowd slides into a guide in the form of a rake, at the arrival it is slowed down by
a receiving device and a conveyor placed under the crowd brings it back to
starting position. Each machine has several projectiles to
maintain continuous production.

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Fluid jet weaving machines: 5. DIFFERENT MECHANISMS OF FORMATION OF

THE CROWD:
In this case, we distinguish between two types of frame transfer: an insertion at
water jet and an air jet insertion.
Water being denser than air, the jet appears in the form of an arc without
dispersion, the speeds reach 500 jets/min and can go up to 1100 m of
The rat trap and the cam box
frames per minute on a width of 2 m. It is important to consider using treated water
and to dry the fabrics thus made.
Unlike what happens with water, dispersion is important so it
must maintain the air jet around its initial axis and extend its effect to
means of relay buses in order to reach 4 m mounts, to channel the
air jets, we use profiled combs that have a channel designed to guide the
jet.

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The mechanics of armored "cam and ratchet" is a

programmer that corresponds to the brain of the weaving machine. Its purpose is
to convert circular motion into reciprocating motion.

It is a mechanical assembly that, through a pull, allows

to obtain a movement of the slat frames and, by that, the opening of 'the crowd'
or "not". This mechanism is placed on one side of the machine (to the right or
to the left), on a superstructure, on a chair (at mid-height), or on the ground.

The purpose of the trap and the cam box, being the formation of the crowd, is at the
level of the executives that we will be able to explain the principles of operation.
To differentiate them, it is thus appropriate to compare the work of
frames in relation to the evolution of the weaving machine.

Jacquard mechanical machines

A French mechanic, Jacquard, at the beginning of the 19th centuryemecentury has put to
an independent mechanism that, added to the loom, allows for
individually order the chain links.

The Jacquard mechanism allows for the creation of an unlimited number of weaves.
mechanism consists of a series of hooks resting on a board equipped
of grooves to hold the hooks. Each hook is controlled by a
needle resting on one side in a needle board. A cylinder holds cards,
Each cardboard has holes and solids representing the armor to be executed. WORK TO BE DONE:
When a hole in the cardboard aligns with the needle, the hook is raised and the 1- What is the difference between preparing the warp yarn and the weft.
The supporting wires of this hook are raised. Why?
2-After the insertion of 5 conduits, sketch the profile of the tissue formed afterwards.
The boxes come one after another in regard to the hands, their
this action?
The name can be very high.
3-Create a detailed diagram of a weaving machine. Indicate the components of
Improvements have been made to this system and allow for the use of base of the ensouple up to the fabric roller?
endless perforated paper, in place of heavy and cumbersome cardboard. 4-After identifying the insertion systems of the frame, compare the
mechanisms according to their volumes in relation to the machine and according to the
insertion speed and the machine's production?
5- According to what criteria can one choose the crowd training system?

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