Bank position

The position of the seat is fundamental for the balance of the kart. One must reach the
steering wheel with arms making an angle of 90 degreesoand 100oThe legs must
remain bent, even when the pilot accelerates to the maximum. In addition to
weight distribution, the comfort of the pilot is important. The positioning of the
the bank must combine comfort with balance. The bank should be as low as possible
possible to provide a center of gravity closer to the ground,
favoring greater stability. For pilots who are between 1.70 and 1.90m tall
height, it is recommended to install the bench with the following measurements:
From the upper face of the rear axle to the middle of the upper part of the backrest.
the custom bank should be between 23 and 24 cm (Dim. 1 of figure 1), and the distance
buttock to axle distance must be
approximately 18cm (Dim. 2 of figure 1);
The measure from the tip of the saddle to the center of the front tube of the frame, where the
the pilot supports the heel, it should be from 60 to 63 cm on the right side and 58 to 61 cm on the left
left side. It is normal for one leg to be longer than the other;
3) The height from the tip of the seat of the kart to the floor must be
between 7 and 8cm;
4) The distance between the top of the steering wheel and the top of the backrest
the bench should be between 69 and 70cm;
The height from the bottom of the bank to the floor should be between 10 and 15mm.

Figure 1

There are devices developed

for the exclusive purpose of
position the bank correctly
no cart (see figure on the side). This
equipment can be found
no site:
[Link]
Unable to translate the given text as it appears to be a file name.
Trace
The piloting should be as smooth as possible, avoiding abrupt movements.
For this, it is necessary to memorize the circuit well. During the turns, avoid
make corrections to the trajectory. Try to walk in a clean and even manner. The
The layout should be as "straight" as possible, minimizing the force as much as possible.
centripetal (increase of the radius), thus allowing for an increase in speed.
The acceleration and braking point depends on each curve, but
basically, you should brake before starting to make the turn, to avoid that the
Go-kart. The ideal point of acceleration is at the center of the curve.
In the rain
The rain outline should be exactly the opposite of normal. The idea is
escape from the rubber track formed on the track. This track forms where it is
more common for the karts to pass, that is, on the normal layout, and with water,
rubber + rubber = zero friction. So, one must make a design in which
it crosses with the rubberization of the track.
Security
It is important to follow basic safety rules when entering a
Track. Before entering the pits, raise your arm to signal to those coming.
back. Be careful when entering the track, making sure no other kart is coming.
speed. If you are breaking in the engine or driving slowly, look back and
indicate with your finger the chosen side for the overtaking. If your kart spins
If you break it, you must remove it from the track as quickly as possible.
Relaxation and Stretching
Relaxation and stretching are important for focusing and for preventing
bruises and muscle pain.
Chassis
Description of possible hits:
Front alignment;
•Convergence or divergence of the front wheels;
Soften front;
Remove front bumper or floor panel;
Softening the back;
Release the rear bumper;
Harden front end;
Tighten front bumper;
Harden the rear;
Use a bar on the bank;
Front bit
Distance between the front wheels;
Rear bitola;
Distance between the rear wheels;
Front camber;
Inclination of the wheels in relation to the ground;
Front caster;
Inclination of the wheels in relation to the ground when steering the wheel;
Wheel Offset;
Relationship between the center of the wheels and their support center on the chassis;
Front and rear reinforcement tubes:
The reinforcement tubes have a direct influence on the twisting of the front part and
rear of the kart, and since the kart has no suspension, the adjustment of these
reinforcement tubes are one of the items that can improve the kart's grip.
Looking to see the vectors of force, imagine how the chassis will bend.
in certain positions and think about how to neutralize the forces with
new forces (vectors). The idea is to keep turning the fastening clamps
elliptical and analyzing the result. It is actually a physics exercise.
Everything is vector forces, which add up, cancel out, or neutralize.
The elliptical fastening clamps can be installed with their cut of
open horizontally (little action from the reinforcement tube), placed with its
tightening cut at 45º (average action) or placed with its tightening cut to
90º (high action). This applies to both the front and rear tube,
reminding that torque and the position of the clamps are distinct things,
and both influence the regulation
The distance between the rear axle and the center of the front spindles must be
adjusted by hooking the "L" tip of the tape measure on the inside of the axle tube
rear and measuring 1.012mm (Mega 1999) / 1.026mm (Mini Supremo 2006)
to the center of the front sleeves, taking care that the steering wheel
remain in the horizontal position. Obviously this work should be
done after the removal of the front and rear wheels and the sides. After the
execution of this adjustment, the convergence of the front wheels should remain
"zerada", and this should be proven with the placement of the front wheels and
the measurement of the distances between the inner part of the wheels.

Carburation
In a kart, where the carburetion is adjusted by the driver themselves, it is essential that
this knows how to do it. The carburetion needles regulate the fuel mixture
with the air, in the engine. The fuel enters together with the oxygen that comes
from the carburetor air intake. Together, in the cylinder head, the spark from the spark plug causes the
explosion of the mixture, which allows the engine to function.
The 2T oil added to the fuel lubricates the internal parts of the engine.
There are two needles in each carburetor (the engine can have carburation
single or double). The needle closest to the motor regulates the input of
fuel at low rotation/speed, that is, in the curves. The high needle
regulates the fuel intake at high rotation/speed, that is, on the straights.
Carburetor adjustment
A well-tuned carburetor is important to achieve the maximum.
engine efficiency. It is important to point out that the 2 needles (high and low)
they must be turned equally, that is, with the same number of turns. When
putting the kart on the track it is common to exit with 1½ or 1¼ lap on each needle,
doing two to three laps of 'warming up'. After the engine is warmed up, it is removed
the candle and then begins the most sensitive part of the needle adjustment.
The adjustment should be made slowly, always turning 1/8 of a turn at a time.
for the strangulation of the high or low needle will result in scarcity of
fuel and consequently the lack of lubrication, which surely
will cause the engine to break the ring, connecting rod and/or piston resulting in the
engine seizure.
If the needles are too wide open, the fuel intake will be greater.
than the burning capacity of the candle. It can be seen that this occurs
when the exhaust releases too much smoke (carburetion with excess or
gross.
The best carburetion adjustment is obtained when, upon removing the spark plug right away
after the kart stop, the inner part of the spark plug (high rotation) is with a
light brown coloring, and the outer part (low rotation) is slightly
damp or almost dry.
Sail
The function of the spark plug is to conduct high voltage electricity inside
from the combustion chamber, converting it into a spark to ignite the mixture.
Despite its simple appearance, it is a piece of sophisticated technology, as the
its perfect performance is directly linked to the engine's efficiency.
Thermal grade: To function properly, the candle electrode must operate
between 400ºC and 900ºC. Below 400ºC, the candle will tend to get dirty with oil and
coal, which are not burned below this temperature. Above 900ºC the
the electrode tip glows and causes pre-ignition and/or detonation (start of
burns before the appropriate point and/or uncontrolled and rapid burning of
mixture)

It seems incredible, but candles can tell us a lot about the

engine operation. When removing the spark plug from the engine shortly after giving some
volts, observe the electrode and the base of the thread. The electrode and the protection of
internal porcelain must be in brick brown color; if they are in black color
brilliant then your engine must be running with a very rich mixture in
high rotation. It can be said that this area of the sail will always speak to you
how is the carburation at high revs. If it shows a gray color
dark or whitish, its carburation is lean at high revolutions. To
correct the high-speed carburetion, open or close the needles of the carburetor.
Closing the needles makes the mixture poorer, and opening the needles
you enrich the mix more. Be careful in this operation and work with
at most ¼ turn in each adjustment.
The thread of the spark plug at its base is also exposed to burning inside the cylinder.
and indicates to us how the mixture is at low RPMs. Never let the engine
very poor in low, as it needs some unburnt mixture to
to lubricate itself. With a lean mixture at low RPM, the engine heats up to the point of
break the oil film formed between the walls of the cylinder and the piston,
thus causing the freezing. Normally, this freezing occurs in the
direction of the exhaust windows, where the temperature is higher.
Keeping the candle wick in shiny black, slightly damp, you
will ensure the necessary lubrication for the proper functioning of the engine. If the
the dark matte finish on the ring, then enrich the mixture; this is done
opening the low needles on the carburetor.
This is the perfect spark plug. The light brown color indicates optimal combustion. The three
the first threads of the screw are black, which means that the spark plug is within range
certain temperature for the application. There is relatively little residue
deposited considering that this engine worked with regular gasoline.

Fuel / Lubricating Oil Ratio 2T:

Hydrated Alcohol: 20 liters of fuel for 1 liter of 2T oil;
Gasoline: 17 liters of fuel for 1 liter of 2T oil.
Valve Adjustment (13HP)
The clearance of the escape valve is always greater because it is
subjected to a higher temperature, and therefore its expansion is also greater.
The breaks do not depend on preparation, they only serve to correct the
expansion, that is, when the engine is cold it should have a slight play, and
when heated this clearance should be close to zero, but not completely, because
can cause loss of compression. The clearances recommended by Honda in
Service manual states: 0.15mm for intake and 0.20mm for exhaust. Can-
if you try to adjust to 0.10mm for intake and 0.15mm for exhaust, but this
it will depend on the condition of the headquarters and the command.

Any clearance of the valves above the factory recommendation will cause
valve timing and, theoretically, reduce engine performance. This is
explain that a greater clearance in the valves will cause a delay in their
opening and will advance the closure. In other words, the cylinder will not receive all of the
necessary fuel, and also will not be able to completely exhaust the
burned gases. The higher the engine speed, the more this will be noticed.
influence. The special commands for high revs have opening times of
major valve. This does not mean that the clearance should be greater. Note that there are two
different things (clearance and opening). The clearance serves as thermal compensation;
the highlights of the command indicate the time and duration of the opening of the
valves. The increased clearance of the valves can make starting the engine more difficult.
difficult, giving 'downs', valve tapping and, on the track, it can get much worse
performance of the kart.

The procedure for adjusting the valves is as follows:

1) The engine must be completely cold;
2) With a key on the clutch screw, set the engine to TDC (top dead center)
superior dead) of the compression cycle. To do this you must remove the spark plug and
observe through the hole when the piston is fully up and the rocker arms
be loose (not pressuring the valves);
3) Before adjusting the valve settings, check the clearances to see if it is
Even necessary, this adjustment. The verification consists of passing the blade
of appropriate caliber by the space between the valve head and the rocker arm. Not
it can be tight enough not to pass the blade, nor loose enough to
pass to a higher dimension. Ideally, the passage of the blade
appropriate is given with accuracy;
4) If it is necessary to adjust, hold the adjustment screw with a wrench.
of 10mm and loosen the locknut with a 14mm wrench. Turn the screw of
adjustment to the left or right as you wish (increase or decrease the
loosen it up a bit, very slowly, and tighten the locking nut slightly;

5) Test with the gauge blade again. If it's good, finish tightening.
tighten the screw and move to the other valve, repeating the procedure.
Note: The adjustment cannot be made with the blade placed in the space, because
it doesn't help at all to try to regulate like this, on the contrary.

Relation
The relationship between the crown and pinion is very important, as it directly influences the
engine performance in corner exits and straight finishes. A larger crown, or
having more teeth (short ratio) provides better output of
curves, a smaller crown (long ratio) provides greater speed in
ends of the lines. With the pinion, the opposite happens, that is, the larger the
the longer the relationship lasts. The ideal is to find a balance between
end of straight and curve exit, remembering that one tooth on the pinion has much
more representation than a tooth in the crown. It is often said that in us
A tooth on the pinion gear is equivalent to about three teeth on the crown.
Tires
Some caution should be taken when buying tires, as they are what
they transmit the engine power to the ground. It is important to check if the softness is
balanced among the 4 tires, and if the measurement of the outer diameter of the tires
is close, both to the front and to the rear.
When assembling a tire game, the inner pin of the pressure valve must be removed.
so that, when increasing the pressure to 'stick them' to the cube, they do not deform
emptying quickly.
Tire Inflation
Front: 12 Lbs.
Rear: 14 Lbs.
Increasing the calibration makes the kart stall.
Lowering the tire pressure makes the kart loose.

Rear Axle
The oldest axles had a diameter of 30mm, but currently the axles
they have a diameter of 40 or 50mm. The specific axis for each must be used.
type of engine, as this reduces the risk of it breaking, due to not
having keyway holes left unnecessarily, which weakens
sensibly the resistance of the axis. There are specific axles for motor RD135
with central table and with offset table, for 4-stroke engines 13
Another important point is to choose the axis based on the hardness of the material, the
which is identified by colors, as below:
Mole Green
Medium Yellow
Hard Red
Basic concepts about escape flexible pipes
The adjustment of the flexible size is very important for performance.
motor. Every time we increase the size of the flexible, we increase the
gas path within the exhaust system, and with that the engine becomes more
"loose" at low revs. This allows for a stronger acceleration, as in
In fact, we are changing the engine's torque range. On the other hand,
we lose power and RPM count at high revs. Shortening the
flexible we have the opposite - increased torque at high, and lower torque at low.
Normally, the flexible one serves as a complement to the used crown.
Let's see, your engine is not responding well out of the curve and the crown already
it cannot be shortened any further as it will lack speed at the end of the straight.
if you gradually increase the size of the flexible until the point at which
starts to notice influence on the curve output (power gain) without
harm the end of the line (motor with stabilized revs without gain of
speed). The opposite also applies to ensure greater speed and power
at the end of the lines, in this case proceed in the same way, shortening
gradually the flexible.
Advanced Tips (adjustments)
If the Kart loses the rear in the corners, try to close the rear a bit to
that she holds on longer.
If the front does not respond well, try putting some adjustment washers to
open the front.
If the kart "bounces" in the corners, accelerate a little more to see if there is a
improvement. If this does not solve it, open the back a little and close it a bit.
front.
If before the end of the straight the kart stops accelerating, change the gear ratio for another one.
a little longer, putting on a smaller crown or a larger pinion.
Walking in the Rain
When you go out in the rain, you should make some adjustments to your kart. They are
they
1) Loosen the bumper screws so that the kart becomes softer and
secure more on the ground;
2) Install rain tires and front wheels with extra weight, if possible;
3) Protect the air intake so that water does not enter the carburetor;
4) Open the needles a little to increase the amount of fuel and
allow burning in the presence of water;
Open the front and close the rear to hold the kart more firmly on the ground;
6) Create a rain trajectory, avoiding the normal rubberized strip;
If it is very wet, increase the pressure for the tire grooves.
work better. If it is less wet, you can lower the calibration,
mainly if you are riding with slick tires (for dry track);
8) Replace the relationship with a slightly shorter one, adding a crown.
larger or a smaller pine nut. This should provide a better
engine efficiency, since the speed is lower in the rain;
Eventually, one can also move any ballast to the front.
go kart;
10) Maybe you have trouble starting the kart, so you will be able to
opt for the choice of a hotter spark plug (B9 or B8);
11) The use of aluminum wheels in the rain is more recommended than those
of magnesium, as they provide faster heating of the tires.

Setup for dry track

Convergence is 0mm
If the kart starts to slide, the solution is to close the rear.
If the kart understeers, the solution is to close the front.
Wet Track Adjustment

Convergence is 5mm
Close the rear wheels and open the front ones.
The kart bank should be placed 20mm in front of the
position used on dry track

Eccentric Bushing

When the kart is understeering, you should turn.

the eccentric bushings at the bottom of the U
mangas

Camber and Caster Adjustments

Washers of the U of Manga:

Raise or lower front:
The washers located between the sleeve and the U of the sleeve
are used to raise or lower the front of the kart
relation to the soil.
By raising the chassis, placing the washers above
the manga, the go-kart will be more stuck.
When lowering the chassis, placing the washers underneath
the manga, the kart will be looser.

Rear Axle:
For very rubberized tracks, a soft axle should be used.
For a slightly rubberized track, a medium axle should be used.
For tracks without rubber, a hard axle should be used.
Current
Chain slack adjustment
Initially, we will consider that you are using a crown, pinion and
new currents. Every mechanical part that works in an assembly requires
mechanical adjustment to reach its peak performance. With the ratio of
the same applies to traction. The critical point in this case is the current, as it has
interconnected moving parts (there are gaps between the chain rollers so that
it becomes malleable, without this slack the chain would be an element without
articulation). When the chain is new and has not been subjected to tensile forces
it "measures" a certain value. After being used, the tensile forces to which
they submit "stretch" the links and reduce the gaps between the rollers, thus their
the size is slightly larger than when new. That's why when
we set up a new relationship, we observed a variation in the current voltage,
the parts are not mechanically adjusted, crown, chain, and pinion yet
they did not assume their condition of normal use. When we adjusted the initial clearance,
we must locate the most stressed point and calculate around 1 cm of
oscillation. After this procedure, we must make at least 4 laps with the kart.
and return to the box to readjust the chain slack again, this time
definitively. With the pieces turned, they have already settled and the current has already
assumed values close to the ideal for prolonged use. Knowing that the
stretched chain, so we can conclude that a new crown or a pinion
they must have a minimum clearance in relation to the current, as this clearance will
increase when the current takes its definitive quotas. This is important
why it translates to power gain for the engine. A misaligned crown
a very tight belt will waste engine power to adjust
yes, in addition to causing premature wear of the entire traction system.
Keep the chain always lubricated with oil and grease.
Note: Right after finishing using the engine with alcohol, put it to
to run with gasoline (preferably BR Podium) and 2T oil for 2 minutes
to clean the alcohol residues from the carburetor.
How does Kart work
The kart is a type of small vehicle for racing on racetracks.
also with reduced dimensions, known as go-kart tracks.
This modality became well known for revealing several great names.
of national and international sports, like Emerson Fittipaldi, Ayrton Senna,
Raul Boesel, Cristiano da Matta, Felipe Massa among others. It is also the
most suitable category for children who have an interest in motorsport.
Currently, karting is divided into nine categories, according to age and/or
experience of the pilots. They are:
Mirim - PMK (6 years completed by 8);
Cadet - PCK (8 years completed by age 12);
Junior Minor - PJMK (10 to 13 years);
Junior - PJK (12 to 14 years old);
Kart Driver - PK (beginner older than 14 years, without experience in karting);
Graduated Pilot 'B' - PGBK (coming from the categories PK and PJK or graduated)
by karting driving school);
Graduated Pilot 'A' - PGKA (promoted from category PGKB);
Senior Pilot 'B' - PSKB (minimum age of 25 years);
Senior Pilot 'A' - PSKA (promoted from the PSKB category).
In karting, changes in category can occur due to the required age.
for the promotion to have been achieved or for the results obtained.
In all the tests of the modality, the definition of dogridé made by taking of
times. The order of the drivers for the time trial is decided by a draw, and
Everyone has the opportunity to make two timed runs on the track.
drivers who achieve the best times start in the front positions, with
two karts in each row, with the number of drivers in each race being
defined by the event organizers.
Before the start, the drivers make a reconnaissance lap of the track.
driven by pole position. After being repositioned, they start the race after
a light signal or a checkered flag (the colors depend on the
organizers) of the race director, depending on the competition. They are also
the event organizers who define the duration of the test and/or the
distance to be covered. The top three competitors in each event must,
obligatorily, receive trophies, with any extra awards being at
positions of the organizers.
Flags
The flags serve in motorsport as the main way of
communication between the race management and the driver. The meaning of each one
the fabric is in color and design. The most well-known is the checkered one in
black and white, the yellow and the red, but there are still a few others.
See what they are and their meanings:
Colorful checkered: usually, the colors are from the flag of Brazil
(green and yellow), which can be of other colors (with the colors of a State,
for example), according to the will of the organization of each event. It serves
to start an event when the starting signal is given, that is, at
movement.

Yellow: everything in this color. Indicates that there is some danger on the track, and that the
competitors must reduce speed, and they are also not allowed to overtake.

Green: everything in this color. Indicates that there is no more danger and is back to normal.
speed and overtaking.

Light blue: all in this color. It is usually presented to the pilot.

loser (who is one or more laps behind the other competitors), and
It means that he must facilitate overtaking.

Red: all in this color. Indicates that the test was interrupted for some reason.
reason, and that the pilots must reduce speed and prepare to stop at any moment
moment.
Black and white: the flag is equally divided into two diagonally, being
each part of a color. It comes accompanied by the driver's car number and
warns about possible unsportsmanlike conduct.

Black: accompanied by a sign with the pilot's car number, indicates that the
even was punished and must go to the pits.

White: all in this color. Indicates that there is a vehicle that is excessively slow in the
track.

Black and orange: all black with an orange circle in the center. Comes
accompanied by the pilot's car number and indicates that it must
drive to the pits for vehicle repairs.

Yellow and red: with vertical stripes in both colors. Indicates lack of
adhesion on the track.

Black and white checked: always busy, it signifies the end of the race.
 Pinion x Crown Relationship Table for RD135
The table below shows the relationship between the pinion and the crown of an RD135.
The closer to 1, the longer. The closer to zero, the more
short. And don't forget that the shorter you make the relationship, the more
you will have chances to climb walls, as the kart will have a force of
damn. Notice for example, that if you are using a ratio: Pinhão 15
The 20-tooth chainring and decides to change to the 18-tooth and 24-tooth chainring, there will be no

no change, as the result will be the same: 0.750.

CROWN
PINHÃO
18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26
14 0.778 0.737 0.700 0.667 0.636 0.609 0.583 0.560 0.538
15 0.833 0.789 0.750 0.714 0.682 0.652 0.625 0.600 0.577
16 0,889 0,842 0.800 0.762 0.727 0.696 0.667 0.640 0.615
17 0.944 0.895 0.850 0.810 0.773 0.739 0,708 0.680 0.654
18 1,000 0.947 0.900 0.857 0.818 0.783 0.750 0.720 0.692

New Pinhão x Crown Relationship Table for RD135, following the relationship
from the shortest to the longest.

Pine nut CROWN RELATION PINHÃO Crown RELATION

14 26 0.538 17 24 0.708
14 25 0.560 15 21 0.714
15 26 0.577 16 22 0.727
14 24 0.583 14 19 0.737
15 25 0.600 17 23 0.739
14 23 0.609 15 20 0.750
16 26 0.615 16 21 0.762
15 24 0.625 17 22 0.773
14 22 0.636 14 18 0.778
16 25 0.640 15 19 0.789
15 23 0.652 16 20 0.800
17 26 0.654 17 21 0.810
14 21 0.667 15 18 0.833
16 24 0.667 16 19 0.842
17 25 0.680 17 20 0.850
15 22 0.682 16 18 0.889
16 23 0.696 17 19 0.895
14 20 0.700 17 18 0.944
Catalog of RD135Z - Shift Shaft

SWAY AXIS
REF. N o
CODE DISCRIMINATION QUANTITY.

13-01 5L9-E8541-00 WOBBLE AXIS 01

02 2H3-E8542-00 PIN OF THE DEAD POINT 01
03 93315-21813 ROLLING 01
04 5L9-E8185-00 SEGMENT 01
05 93604-12803-09 PINE GUIDE 06
06 5L9-E8561-00 SIDE PLATE 01
07 93430-08006-09 LOCK RING 01
08 93604-30802-09 PIN GUIDE 01
09 2A6-18511-00 WOBBLING FORK 1 02
10 5L9-18512-00 WOBBLE FORK 2 01
11 5L9-E8531-00 FORK GUIDE BAR 1 01
12 5L9-E8435-00 GUIDE BAR OF THE FORK 2 01
13 5L9-E8140-00 LIMITING LEVER OF THE GEARBOX 01
14 5L9-E8177-00 SCREW 01
15 90506-09156-09 MOLA 01
Engine Friction
 FRICTION
REF. N o
CODE DISCRIMINATION

10-01 2EL-E5441-00 SUP. OF THE CLUTCH CABLE

02 4Y2-16150-01 Driven Clutch Assembly
03 90210-17550-09 FLAT WASHER
04 18G-16371-00 Friction CUBE
05 1V1-16324-00 CLUTCH PLATE
06 1V1-16321-00 Friction disk
07 18G-16351-00 PRESSURE PLATE
08 90501-20568 PRESSURE MOLD
09 90119-05020 SCREW WITH WASHER
10 90170-14171-09 sow
11 90215-14122-09 LOCK WASHER
12 401-16111-00-30 PRIMARY GEAR
13 90179-12044-09 pig
14 90208-12800-09 WASHER
15 90201-17550-09 FLAT WASHER
16 90560-17147-09 SPACER
17 5L9-E6358-00 PRESSURE ROD GUIDE
18 5L9-E6356-00 PRESSURE HASTE
19 92902-06200-09 FLAT WASHER
20 95302-06600-09 sow
21 93503-16802-09 SPHERE
22 23L-E6357-00 BLOOD PRESSURE
23 5L9-E6380-00 BOOSTER LEVER
24 90508-20345-09 MOLA
25 90201-14217-09 washer
26 93104-14800-09 RETAINER
27 90430-08069-09 gasket
28 90149-08108-09 SCREW
Engine Casings

ENGINE BLOCKS
REF. No CODE DISCRIMINATION QUANTITY.

07-01 2EL-E5111-01-AC L.E. MOTOR HOUSING 01

02 23L-E5121-00-AC ENGINE BLOCK L. D. 01
03 91810-02014-09 PINE GUIDE 01
04 91810-16016-09 PIN GUIDE 01
05 92506-06045-09 SCREW 07
06 92506-06065-09 BOLT 05
07 2H3-E5371-00 BREATH 01
08 90445-07340-09 TUBE (Ø5 X Ø7 X 310mm) 01
09 90340-12005-09 OIL PLUG 01
10 90430-12038-09 OIL BOTTLE GASKET 01
11 2H3-E5128-00 FIXATIVE 01
Transmission
 TRANSMISSION
REF. N o
CODE DISCRIMINATION QUANTITY.

November 1st 23L-E7411-00 MAIN AXIS 01

02 23L-E7121-00 MOTOR GEAR 2 a
01
03 42K-E7131-01 MOTOR GEAR 3a 01
04 42K-E7141-01 MOTOR GEAR 4 a
01
05 42K-E7151-01 DRIVE GEAR 5 a
01
06 90201-20266-09 FLAT WASHER 04
07 93440-20043-09 LOCK RING 04
08 5L9-E7421-00 SECONDARY AXIS 01
09 23L-E7211-09 GEAR DRIVEN 1 a
01
10 93440-15012-09 LOCK RING 01
11 5L9-E7216-00 WASHER OF THE SECONDARY AXLE 01
12 23L-E7221-00 DRIVEN GEAR 2 a
01
13 23L-E7231-00 GEAR DRIVEN 3a 01
14 23L-E7241-00 DRIVEN GEAR 4 a
01
15 23L-E7251-00 GEAR DRIVEN 5 a
01
16 93311-31515 ROLLING 01
17 93306-30304-09 ROLLING 01
18 5L9-E7471-00 COVER PLATE 01
19 97321-06012-09 Screw 02
20 93306-30401-09 ROLLING 01
21 93450-52010-09 LOCK RING 01
22 93102-28801-09 RETAINER 01
23 93311-31515 ROLLING 01
24 2H3-E7461-60 MOTOR GEAR OF THE CHAIN (160) 01
25 2H3-E7462-00 SPACER 01
26 90179-16018-09 PIG 01
27 90215-16127-09 Lock washer 01
Crankshaft and Piston
 CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON
REF. N o
CODE DISCRIMINATION QTY.

02-01 23L-E1400-00 Complete crankshaft 01

02 23L-E1412-00 CRANKSHAFT END L. E. 01
03 2H3-E1422-00 CRANKSHAFT END L. D. 01
04 4Y2-11651-00 WHITE 01
05 23L-E1681-00 CRANKSHAFT PIN 01
06 90209-22071-09 washer 02
07 93310-422LD ROLLING 01
08 90280-03017-09 KEY 01
09 90387-20823-09 Spacer 01
10 93306-20517-09 ROLLING 01
11 93450-52010-09 LOCK RING 01
12 93102-25801-09 RETAINER 01
13 93306-30405-09 ROLLING 01
14 93103-28011-09 RETAINER 01
2MX-11631-00-97 STD PISTON 0.97mm 01
2MX-11635-00 PISTON 0.25mm 01
15 2MX-11636-00 PISTON 0.50mm 01
2MX-11637-00 PISTON 0.75mm 01
2MX-11638-00 PISTON 1.00mm 01
4Y2-11601-00 STD RING GAME 01
4Y2-11601-10 RING GAME 0.25mm 01
16 4Y2-11601-20 RING GAME 0.50mm 01
4Y2-11601-30 RING GAME 0.75mm 01
4Y2-11601-40 RING GAME 1.00mm 01
17 23L-E1633-00 PISTON PIN 01
18 93310-216L2 ROLLING 01
19 93450-17802-09 LOCK RING 02
20 90282-05005-09 WEDGE 01
Cylinder head and cylinder

HEAD AND CYLINDER

REF. No CODE DISCRIMINATION Quantity.

01-01 2MX-E1111-00 CYLINDER HEAD 01

02 23L-E1127-00 SIPHON 06
03 23L-E1128-00 absorber 02
04 23L-E1129-00 absorber 02
05 2MX-E1181-00 HEAD GASKET 01
06 95701-08100-09 sow 04
07 90116-08394-09 PRISONER 04
08 29N-11311-00 ENGINE CYLINDER 01
09 23L-E1161-00 ABSORBER 06
10 23L-E1351-00 CYLINDER GASKET 01
11 90179-10806-09 pig 04
12 95611-10625-09 PRISONER 04
13 94701-00801-09 IGNITION PLUG (BP-8HS) 01
Basic tips for buying a used kart
Many people want to start kart racing, but have no idea where to begin.
where to start. Many questions arise when it comes to choosing what to buy.
Which engine? Which chassis? What to look for in a kart to avoid getting into a mess?
Thinking about that, we gathered some tips to help people not struggle so much.
at the time of purchase. It's worth taking a look before signing the check:
Where to buy?
Where you can find go-karts for sale more easily and quickly is at kart tracks and
in specialized stores, usually in these places there are murals with
offers or does anyone in the field know a friend or trainer who
I have a go-kart for sale. Another option is online, where there are several websites.
specialized in e-commerce. Among them, we can mention one in
special, which is Mercado Livre, where numerous can be found
classifieds for karts, parts and accessories.
2. What to look for in the chassis?

2.1 Types of chassis

Currently, the most well-known brands in the market are Mini and Birel.
Mega and Moro. There is also the Italian chassis Tony Kart. All are
great, what gets difficult is saying which is the best. What we can say is
that there is no 'bad chassis' but rather 'bad tuning'. It is believed that the most
currently used is the Mini Master, Mini Supremo, and Mega.
for more information about the chassis, visit the main website
manufacturers:
[Link]
[Link]
[Link]
[Link]
[Link]
2.2 The year of the chassis.

Check the year of the chassis, as if the price is too low it could be
because the chassis is very old, in this case it is not worth the risk,
because the older it gets, the more worn out the kart is. The worst part is not the
kilometers driven on the track and not the kilometers driven on the grass!
[Link]
One of the problems with the used chassis are the welds. Look closely at all the
chassis structure, if there is any weld, be suspicious, as it could be
sign that the chassis has been very used or had a very strong impact.
Even if you ask the go-kart owner about why that happened
he certainly will never say that it is a serious matter. If the soldering
for large, like all around the tube, let's say it's serious, but if
a solder for the size of 1 or 2cm wouldn't have so much of a problem, but then
depends on the place where this weld is. For example, near the wheels it is
risky. Welds on the supports of the bench wouldn't be so serious.
2.4 Rear axle
To check if the rear axle is bent, lift the kart up.
so that the rear wheels come off the ground, take a screwdriver
fix it as close as possible to the axis, and rotate the axis. If the key stays
picking up at some points on the axis and not at others, the axis is crooked.
See the photos below on how to do it:

2.4.1 Exploded View of the Rear Axle

2.5 Bearings
This is easy, to know if the front and rear wheels are not with
a lot of slack or "snoring", just turn the wheel and put your ear close
near the bearing, if it makes a very loud noise, the bearing is
detonated. To check if it has play, place your finger on the bearing and
move the outer part, so you will know if there is any slack or not.
2.6 Brakes
Check if the brake hoses have air bubbles, if there are any.
it will be necessary to "bleed" the brake. It's nothing serious, but it already gives a
extra work. Also check if the brake disc is not warped. For
check if it is crooked the process is the same as the rear axle, see the
photos below:

2.6.1 Brake bleeding: how to remove air from the system

Remove the existing screw in the center of the cylinder cover.
master;
Loosen the bleed screws for the fluid of the
tweezers;
3) Insert a syringe filled with fluid into the screw hole
cited in item 1, pushing hard to apply pressure. From
prefer to use a rubber o-ring at the tip of the syringe
to apply pressure;
4) Pump the brake pedal while pressing the piston of the
syringe for the new fluid to enter while the old fluid is
the air is being expelled by the screws of the clamps;
5) When the new fluid is already coming out of the clamp screw
closer to the master cylinder, hold the brake pedal
press down and tighten the screw only of this clamp;
6) Repeat the procedure described in item 4 a little more.
just to expel the little bit of old fluid and air that may be
to be in the last section of the aerokip between the 2 clamps;
7) Upon noticing the new fluid coming out from the screw of the second
pinch, hold the brake pedal pressed and close the screw
of this tweezers;
8) After this procedure, the brake should work correctly.
If any leak is noticed in the system, it must be replaced.
the repair.
9) Use DOT 4 or 5 brake fluid.
 2.6.2 Exploded View of Riomar Hydraulic Brake

2.7 Bank
Remove the seat cover (if there is one) and check if the seat is not broken.
It's very full of holes and patches. This is not so much either.
just like that, as it only takes one more layer of fiberglass and the
the problem is solved, but it would also be extra work.
2.8 If the chassis is not warped.
This test is relatively easy to perform. To find out if the chassis does not
it is warped, do the following: place the kart on a flat surface
turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. By doing this, the left wheel should
raise a little off the ground (no more than 2cm). Do the same for the
other side. It doesn't matter much how high they rise from the ground,
It matters that they rise to the same height on both sides. Do not
Forget that the chassis must have the geometry 'zeroed' and the tires.
with the same calibration and in the same state of wear.
3. Which engine is better?
First you should ask yourself: what do I want the kart for? To have fun
at low cost? To invest professionally? To have the pleasure of feeling the
motor power? Anyway, it's a very delicate issue, but let's go
trying to help...
3.1 Motorcycle for fun, no matter the speed:
In this case, we recommend a Honda 4-stroke engine GX160 5.5HP.
likely that you have seen one of these engines, as they are the
preference of 10 out of 10 indoor kart track owners. They are
engines that are a bit more expensive, but that don't run as much due to
low power. They come with a centrifugal clutch (the engine does not die)
when the kart stops) and it's better, it gives fewer problems. Another engine that
requires less maintenance and the CG125 bike, it is hard to find a kart with
a motor like that, but it exists.
3.2 Fun motor, with speed, and cheap:
A well-suited engine would be an RD135, as the maintenance of these
engines are lower compared to traditional go-karts.
Depending on the preparation, these engines can reach 150 km/h or
But. The adrenaline of speeding up a go-kart with these engines is fantastic.
The feeling of speed and the gear shifts is very close to
race cars. There is also the Honda 4-stroke engine GX390 13HP,
single-cylinder, air-cooled, with rope start mechanism.
This is also a quite strong engine, especially if it receives a
proper preparation, but its price is much higher than the RD135. It is
a good option for those who want to walk without facing major problems of
maintenance, but when maintenance is needed it won't be much
cheap.
3.3 Motor for competition:
In this case, prepare your wallet, as there are several models available.
market, such as: Parilla Evolution, PCR, Riomar Super, etc., to
the maintenance of these engines is quite expensive and their lifespan is short. They are great
engines, but the problem is the prices. However, if money is not yours
problem, then you will have found your engine among the ones mentioned above.
Thinking about the future?
The global trend is towards the use of 4-stroke engines, which pollute.
much less than that of 2 strokes. One example is the Biland. It already exists even
championship in Brazil, the Billand Challenge.
3.5 What to look for in the engine?

The best way to know if an engine is good or not is to take it to

kart for the track and let someone who already has experience in that type of
the engine you are buying takes some rides driving the go-kart.
Even so, when it comes to competition engines, one never
Do you know for sure when the engine will break down.
Tips and care for the tire.
This information was taken from the official website of Pneus MG, manufacturer of
tires for go-karts.
Wheels
The wheels influence the adjustment of the kart for technological and geometric reasons.
The material used to make the wheel is also of great importance.
magnesium is more porous than aluminum and has a greater capacity for
heat tolerance; the temperature reached by the rubber remains more constant
as the turns go by, what needs to be taken into consideration in the phase of
filling.
With an aluminum wheel, it is necessary to anticipate the increase in temperature and the
consequent increase in internal pressure during the competition. When choosing
For very low pressures, it is advised to use bolts on the wheels.
Wheels with fixed screws have an anti-detachment function. They are wheels
extremely recommended for circuits with high-speed turns, well
like situations where a filling pressure below 12 PSI is used.
General Use
It is advisable to acquire some highly useful equipment for the
tire mounting and dismounting: tire dismounting machine,
valve remover, metallic tape or band, balancing support,
neutral soap to assist in assembly, pressure gauge, along with, naturally, the
compressed air available.
Use a pyrometer to measure the temperature of the tires when it is
training. A kart tire reaches its best performance levels
when the tread works in the range between 80 and 95 degrees Celsius.
Adjustments to the kart or changes in driving style can help maintain the
stable tire temperature, improving performance and preserving the
tires for longer.
Be especially careful with your manometer. One or two pounds more or the
Less than desired influences too much on the kart's behavior. Invest
in a good manometer and avoid falls or misuse, so that it remains
in perfect condition for use.
After a workout or run, completely deflate the tires to avoid the
deformation as a function of rubber heating. This is particularly
important in tournaments where the same tire game is used in more than
a battery.
Calibration
Tracks with little "grip", that is, not very rubberized, usually require a
higher calibration. Initially consider a pressure between 13 and 15 PSI
(hot tires).
In very rubberized circuits, a situation that usually happens in
important racing days, with many karts on the track, it is advisable to use
a lower calibration between 10 and 13 PSI (hot tires).
Changes in atmospheric temperature influence kart behavior.
on the track.
Softer compound tires may require a lower pressure.
that harder compound tires.
Safety
Only trained individuals should perform the tire assembly, using
safety equipment (glasses) and observing the necessary precautions.
Never inflate the tire beyond the maximum pressure suggested by the manufacturer. If
If you have difficulty mounting a tire, disassemble it and repeat the process.
process, checking if there are no problems with the wheel.
Never stay close to a wheel during the filling process. In case
From the explosion, pieces of the wheel can cause injuries.
Make sure that the tires are properly mounted on the wheel after the
filling, checking for leaks. This can be done with soap.
neutral, to observe the occurrence of air bubbles, especially around the
valve.
Before an exam, check if the tire does not show any cuts, punctures, or
anomaly in the rubber, especially when it comes to a tire that has already been used in
a previous race.
Dismantling
To completely deflate the tire, you can remove the valve, which is at the
interior of the vent, using a valve remover, a small and useful tool
In which the tip has a fitting that secures to the valve.
It is also possible to release the internal air simply by pressing the valve,
considering the amount of air inside, but this process is more
delayed.
In some wheels, especially the magnesium ones, used in competitions.
important, near the outer edge, at the radial position of 120°,
there are three fixed screws with an anti-loosening function. These screws are
almost indispensable in cases of high speeds in routes of
curvature and low filling pressures. Without them, deformity may occur.
from the side of the tire with the risk of the bead separating from the rim.

It is necessary to unscrew these screws almost completely, tensioning

to avoid creating bulges inside the wheel channel, in order not to create
obstacles for the tire detachment. Soon after, position the spatula of the
machine on the side of the tire, near the tread of the wheel and press the
same at various points until highlighting the tire shoulder at the edge of the wheel.
After flipping the wheel on the dismounting machine, repeat the operation.
always paying attention not to crush the edges of the wheel.
Compress the tread to the outer part, trying to turn from the
reverse the tire's sidewall to the inside up to half of the circumference (fig. 1).
With one hand, hold the wheel and bend the tire at the top. With the other
hand, push the wheel into the tire (fig. 2). Then, rotate the tire and push
the wheel outward (fig. 3), using, if necessary, soap on the bead.
Assembly
The assembly operations practically follow in the opposite manner.
regarding disassembly.
To mount the tire, it is helpful to lightly lubricate the beads with a brush.
passed on the wet soap. Do not use other products as lubricants or
thanks.
Before starting the assembly, it is necessary to observe the direction of rotation of the tire.
to place the wheel on the correct side. On the side where the logo is
The manufacturer has an arrow indicating the direction of rotation of the tire.

The tire is positioned with the correct rotation direction facing up and one is placed on it.
inner part of the wheel, tightening, rotating and leaving the tire still (fig.
4).

At this point, it is necessary to put the inner side of the tire. Fold the part
tire inner, forcing it inward (fig. 5). Place the wheel with the part
internally upwards, hold the wheel and the tire with one hand and with the other force the
tire inside.
To mount the tire on the rim, place it in the driving position and
inflate to a pressure greater than the exercise pressure, 42 to 56 PSI at most, for
allow for quick filling. It is useful to remove the valve (if it was not done before)
so that after the tire is mounted on the wheel, the air can escape quickly,
thus avoiding a deformation of the tire structure.
This is a very delicate phase, due to the not remote risk of wheel explosion.
Some companies prepare safety packaging in which is placed the
tire in the filling phase under high pressure, being able to contain the
fragments of a possible and undesirable explosion.
In any situation, it is essential to protect yourself with plastic glasses.
Safety type and keep the face as far away from the wheel as possible. When the
if the tire is unmounted from the wheel, reinsert the filling valve and
subsequently calibrate the tire with the expected pressure according to the type of
drunk and the conditions of the track.
Balancing
The balancing of the wheel/tire set is a fundamental point for achieving
the best performance of your kart. Unbalanced wheels cause vibrations,
discomfort in driving, excessive tire wear and drop in
yield.
The balancing of a go-kart wheel is of the static type, with the kart on a
bracket, without the use of a balancing machine. The front wheels
can be balanced on the kart itself, while the rear ones require a
support for balancing.
The ideal balancing depends on the weight balance in the set, which can
to be observed when, after several rotations, the wheel always stops in positions
different. Use lead for balancing while thoroughly degreasing the wheel
before the definitive fixation.
Tire Hardness MG

List of the engine gears RD135

There are many doubts among go-kart racers about the difference between the ratio of
RX125 vs RD135 marches. We have always heard that the RX125's gearbox was
but shorter than that of the RD135. According to the table below, we can verify
the SECONDARY RATIO is shorter in the RX125. As the ratio
the secondary is the motorcycle current, in the KART it will make no difference.
unless there are differences in the gear ratios among the various models
from 125/135. Any information on the subject will be welcome.
RX125 RD135
Teeth Relation Teeth Relation
Primary Relationship 19/74 3,894 19/74 3,894
Secondary Relationship 35/16 2,188 39/16 2,437
1st March 34/12 2,833 34/12 2,833
2nd March 30/16 1,875 30/16 1,875
3rd March 26/19 1,368 26/19 1,368
4th March 24/22 1,090 24/22 1,090
5th March 22/24 0.916 22/24 0.916

Run and take care of the current

For those who are starting out or coming from V4, a tip is to keep the chain of
RD135 always with little slack. The crown of the RD is much smaller than the
used in V4 engines and if the chain becomes too loose when the engine revs up
from spin to current it skips the teeth and the Kart does not respond. The interesting thing is that
the chain doesn't fall and the effect is as if the clutch is slipping. In the V4
this problem, even with loose current, is difficult to happen.

Polishing - Basic principle

An important tip to improve engine performance is to polish it.
the windows. This basic tip even exists in video games. Those who have already
If you had fun playing 'Gran Turismo 2' on PlayStation, you know what we're talking about.
In this game, there is an option to increase the power of the car engine.
called "Polish". It is the same principle we use in karting. See the photos
before after polishing the engine windows.
Some Technical Data about the Original RD135 Engine
Motor: 132cc, 2 Stroke, 1 Cylinder, Air Cooled
Power: 16cv at 8,000 rpm
Nutrition: Mikuni 24mm carburetor
Lubrication: Automatic
Ignition: Electronics
Game: Pedal
Transmission: 5 marches
Length: 1962mm
Width: 726mm
Seat height: 736mm
Dry weight: 100kg
Front suspension: Telescopic Fork, stroke of 116mm
Rear suspension: Double Shock Absorber, stroke of 70mm
Front brake and Rear brake Drum 130mm
Tires: 2.75x18
Engine Oil: 0.86 L

MOTOR
Type: 2 Times
Displacement: 132 cm3
Diameter x Stroke: 58.0 x 50.0 mm
Carburetor: VM24SS/MIKUNI
Lubrication System: Autolube
Compression Rate: 6.82 : 1
Maximum Torque (DIN) 1.5 kgf·m at 7,000 rpm
Maximum Power (DIN): 16.0 hp at 8,000 rpm.
Standard
0.25mm
Correction: 0.50mm
0.75mm
1.0mm
Ignition Advance (Motoplat): Advance 1.60mm before P.M.S.

Tips for cheaper parts

Unfortunately, go-karting is an expensive pastime! Especially if you are going to take the...
serious sport. But this session is intended for those people who run from
From time to time, they run with friends on the weekends and are not up for it.
to spend rivers of money just to have fun.
Don't forget that researching prices has always been and will always be a good deal.
See below the list of parts and where you can save:
Pine Pig
Just to give you an idea of the price difference, the nut of the engine pinion
Riomar V4 in a kart parts store costs R$5.00 and in a store of
The same nut from the same manufacturer costs R$0.55.
2. Rear Bearing
The rear axle bearings of the KART are used in agricultural machines.
The price in bearing stores is cheaper than in stores
specialized. To buy bearings without making a mistake, copy the number of the
bearing or take the old bearing to a bearing store. Another tip is
try to buy used, while a new one costs on average R$45.00
used goes for R$10.00.
Basic information about category RD135:
ATTENTION! Before adapting the Yamaha RD135 engine to your kart, consult
the rules of the championship where you will race, as there are differences
 of regulation between the various championships for the RD135 category. Here
Here are some basic information about the parts to adapt the engine to the
cart
Engine table for RD135;
Crown support;
Gear shifting;
Clutch;
Carburetor
Carburetor flange;
Ignition.
1. Engine table for RD135
There are already some types of tables on the market. An important difference
among them is about the positioning of the KART bank. In some types
for the correct alignment between the pinion, crown, and chain, the crown is placed between
the two bearings of the rear axle that are on the engine side. In this case
It is necessary to install the bearings from the outside of the bearing box.
and it is not necessary to adjust the position of the seat. Another detail with this type
The support is that the weight of the engine is shifted more to the right of the pilot. In
another type of support is needed to change the position of the go-kart seat
shifting the seat to the left, since the crown is outside the box
bearings and the magnet touches the bench. This type increases the hand of
work, as it is necessary to bend, shift, weld, etc. the supports of the bench.
2. Crown support
The split type is used or not. The split is composed of two half moons.
fixed on the axis with 4 screws and the crown, also bipartite, is fixed on the
support by 6 screws. The important thing is that the crown must be split to
facilitate the exchange of the relationship when necessary. There is another type of
bipartite support in which the support and the crown are made in a single piece.
3. Gear shift
It can be with steel cables or a rod (lever). With a rod (lever) it is
simpler and requires less labor and maintenance and the gear shifting
is done with a single lever on the steering wheel. With steel cables, the change of
The gears are changed through two levers on the steering wheel, Formula 1 type.
In the lever model, we recommend placing it as close as possible to the
fuel tank so it doesn't hit the leg. As a last resort, put
a foam around the lever. Depending on the chassis, the lever
passes through the back of the tank, and in this case does not hinder the leg.
4. Clutch
Some use it and others do not, but most karts with RD135 engines do not.
usa clutch. The clutch cable is not installed. To make the kart
put it in neutral and push the kart then put the
second gear. Tip to make it easier to catch: before using the kart, do
Function on the bench. Engage fourth gear, wrap a rope around the tire.
back (about 4 turns) and pull hard. Put a little of
gasoline in the carburetor to catch easier. Don't forget to run the
motor with gasoline and 2T oil before storing the kart to 'wash' the engine.
 Note: Even though the clutch is not used, the entire original system of
The clutch is maintained in the engine by placing a spacer disk.
extra to prevent the clutch from slipping.

5. Carburetor
Typically, the Tillotson is used, the same as the V4 engine from Riomar. It is
it is possible to use the original Mikuni from the bike, but to make it work it will be necessary
adjust the nozzles and needle for alcohol and adapt a fuel pump,
which can be mechanical or pulse, that uses the pressure from the engine crankcase
to activate the pump. The Tillotson already has the pump built into the carburetor.
pulse.

Tillotson carburetor with an aluminum flange

6. Carburetor flange
It is a piece of aluminum (see the photo above and below) or square iron with
a hole in the center and two set screws to secure the carburetor
Tillotson. Avoid using TEFLON or NYLON flanges. These flanges typically
giving fuel leak.
7. Ignition
What has been used by most kart drivers is the ignition of the V4 engine of
Riomar, Motoplat, PVL or Selectra. To adapt these ignitions it is necessary to
buy the adapter table and machine the inner part of the rotor to fit
in the crankshaft of the RD135. For the advancement of the point, start by using 1.6mm
before the PMS (Upper Dead Point). Remember that this is basic. Everything
It needs to be tried and tested until the desired result is achieved.
8. Breaking your back on the bench?
To those looking from the outside, it seems easy to navigate the curves of the go-kart track with a
Little does the person who thinks this know that this little toy can go far.
at 140 km/h and generating 2.6 G (2.6 times your body weight) in a curve!
Thus, it seems inevitable not to come out injured. The first tip for
minimizing these damages is using the right bank for your body, such as the
the idea of the site is to save, we will not advise buying a new bank,
except if this bank is much smaller than your butt!
9. Appropriate size
The kart seat must fit your body as snugly as possible, without
no space between you and the bank.
If you sit on the bench and feel it a little loose, with 1cm of space.
between you and the bank, you can be sure, in a curve this 'little space' will
makes a 'space' of about 5cm and causes a mess, and makes you
to play from side to side like popcorn, and there go precious seconds.
10. Foams
A good tip is to place high-density foam on the sides of the seat.
or if that's the case in the whole bank! Before putting the foams, don't forget
to clean the seat well, with kerosene, gasoline or VEJA, to remove the
excess oil that accumulates from the engine.
Then just glue the foam with silicone glue or silver tape.
(we recommend using both). This will minimize the bumps you take
in the curves or when it hits a slightly high curb.
The silver tape costs approximately R$15.00 / 50 meters. It's worth it.
buy, because you always use this.
11. Erasers
The second option is to put rubber (E.V.A.), like the ones found in flip-flops.
Samoa, Havaianas, etc. This rubber is found in houses of
shoemakers.
Bank Inclination
What helps a lot is adjusting the angle of the seat, leaning back or
lifting the bench a little. In this way, the centrifugal force generated in the
the curve will be better distributed, and you won't feel the effect as much on your
body.
12. Rib Protector Vest
The last and best option is to use a vest, which protects the sides and the back.
All the people who use these vests approve of and recommend their use. The
price? If you go directly to specialized stores, you'll find it for around
R$80.00, but a used one can be found for R$20.00 or in
go-kart tracks with in-house production for about R$ 40.00.