patterns

Violette Top
sizes 0-16 | 2 hem options | confident beginner | woven or knit
 TABLE OF CONTENTS

About p.3 Pattern inventory p.14

Pattern details p.4 Cutting layout p.16

Quick-start guide p.6 Before you start p.18

Selecting your size Instructions p.20

p.8
Review p.31
Printing/assembly p.10

Fabric & supplies p.12

 ABOUT

Hi there! I’m Loïse. I finally decided to take the leap and offer my
ready-to-wear designs as PDF patterns, making them available to
anyone around the world who’s into sewing, how great!

I’m very excited to start this new sewing pattern making journey while
I continue the first one I embarked upon in June 2022: my handmade
and made-to-order brand, Gold & Skye, which I created after moving
from Canada back to my home country, France.

I live in the countryside with my husband & my two cats, between

Toulouse and the Pyrenees. I’m all about the slow country life and
aspire to create designs that reflect that lifestyle: feminine, comfortable,
vintage inspired and effortless pieces.

I began my sewing journey 4 years ago with no prior sewing experience

and inevitably had many trials and errors along the way. I want to share
my knowledge and pattern designs in a way that is educational and
easy-to-follow so that more people can enjoy the art of sewing your
own clothes!

3
 PATTERN DETAILS

V-neck finished with

Wide shoulders The Violette top is a invisible bias tape
cute little tie-front
style with neat
finishes. Wear it with
everything from your
favorite jeans to a
maxi skirt.

Relaxed fit
Topstitching Center Armholes finished
front ties with invisible bias
tape

Crop length
Ruffle hem Regular hem option
option Skills: gathering (only for the
ruffle hem option), invisible
bias, thin ties, hemming

all seam allowances included

Copyright 2024 Gold & Skye. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit. #violettetop by @goldandskyepatterns 4
 I wear a size 4. My measurements are bust 88 cm, waist 69 cm, hips 102 cm, height 164 cm / 34"- 27"- 40", 5'4.

Organic cotton double gauze Linen 205 gsm - with ruffle hem Organic pointelle knit 190 gsm

Copyright 2024 Gold & Skye. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit. #violettetop by @goldandskyepatterns 5
 QUICK START GUIDE
BELOW ARE BASIC STEPS FOR THOSE READY TO JUMP RIGHT IN.
MORE DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS ON PAGE 20.

Find your size Sew the ties

Take your body measurements with a flexible measuring tape and For each strip of fabric, fold lengthwise right sides together, sew
find your corresponding size in the chart. at 6 mm or 1/4" from the fold. Trim seam allowance to 3 mm
or 1/8" and turn them inside out.
Print & assembly
Decide if you’re going to print at home (A4) or at a shop (A0). Prep the neck bias
Print the calibration test square to see if the scale is correct, adjust Sew the two strips of bias together at one short edge at 1 cm or
printer settings if necessary. Cut borders, match markings and 3/8" seam allowance and at a 45° angle. Press open, snip off the
tape to assemble pattern pieces. Cut out pattern pieces following tips of the seam allowances and set aside.
your size.
Sew the shoulders & side seams
Cut your fabric Sew the shoulders and side seams right sides together at 1 cm or
3/8". Press all seams open then again to the back and finish
After having pre-washed and ironed out your fabric, place the
them your preferred way.
printed pattern pieces according to the cutting layout on page 16.

Sew the ruffle hem - optional

You will also have to cut the extra pattern pieces (ties, armholes
& neck biases, ruffle): find their measures on page 15. Secure your
Hem your ruffle by folding over 6 mm or 1/4" twice or using a
pattern pieces (with pins or pattern weights) and cut using
6 mm rolled hem pressure foot.
scissors or a rotary cutter.
Gather your ruffle by sewing two rows of basting stitches.

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 QUICK START GUIDE

Pin your ruffle to the top right sides together (pin the middle of Sew the armhole bias
the ruffle to the center back at the hem, and at the center of the Fold your bias over 1 cm or 3/8" one of the short edges and
front pieces). place right sides together at the side seam. Sew at 7 mm or 1/4".
Pull on threads to gather your ruffle until its width matches the
When arriving at the other end, sew the bias on top of the
hem of the top. Pin and sew at 1 cm or 3/8".
folded short edge (just over the fold). Cut excess bias.
Removed basting stitches and finish your seam. Press.
Fold the bias over and from the right side sew the two ends of
Topstitch your seam allowance to the top.
the bias together to close it (perpendicular to the side seam).
Cut the little point that formed so that your bias is straight.
Sew the neck bias From the right side, press the bias toward the seam allowance.
Fold over 1 cm or 3/8" one of the short edges and place right Understitch the bias to seam allowance. Press.
sides together at the bottom corner of the left front piece. Fold over the bias to the wrong side twice and sew along the
Insert and secure ties between marks with clips. Sew at 7 mm or folded edge. Press.
1/4". When sewing over the ties, do some backstitches to make
them extra secure.
Hem your top - if you didn’t do the ruffle hem
When arriving at the other end, cut excess bias keeping enough
to fold over 1 cm or 3/8", like at the beginning. Fold the bottom edge of your top to the wrong side twice by 6 mm
From the right side, press the bias toward the seam allowance. or 1/4". If you’re not using a rolled hem pressure foot you can use
Understitch the bias to seam allowance. Press. your iron to press as you fold. Sew along the folded edge, as close
Fold over the bias to the wrong side twice and sew along the to it as you can.
folded edge. Press.
Tip: Use a piece of fabric to slide under your pressure foot (called a Hump
jumper) behind your top to make sure it is not tilted, otherwise your machine
will struggle to start stitching because of the thickness.

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 SELECTING YOUR SIZE

Body measurements - metric and imperial

Size 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

Bust
cm 80 84 88 92 96 102 108 114 120 bust
in 31.5 33 34.5 36.2 37.7 40 42.5 44.8 47.2
waist
Waist
cm 66 70 74 78 82 88 94 100 106
in 26 27.5 29.1 30.7 32.2 34.6 37 39.3 41.7

1. With a flexible measuring tape, measure your bust & waist circumference.
2. Compare your measurements to the table measurements above to identify what
size you are closest to.

The most important measurement is your bust. If you’re in between sizes,

pick the size above.

For example if your bust is 86 cm/34" you should pick size 4.

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 SELECTING YOUR SIZE

Garment measurements - while the garment is laying flat, not worn

Note: the lengths measurements are for the top without the ruffle hem option (finished ruffle height = 4 cm/1.5")

Size 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

A
A
cm 39 43 47 51 55 61 67 73 79
in 15.3 17 18.5 20 21.6 24 26.3 28.7 31

B
B
cm 41 45 49 53 57 63 69 75 81
in 16 17.7 19.2 20.8 22.5 24.8 27 29.5 31.8

C C
cm 44.5 44.5 44.5 44.5 44.5 45 45.5 46 46.5
in 17.5 17.5 17 17.5 17.5 17.7 17.9 18.1 18.3

D D
cm 47.5 47.5 47.5 47.5 47.5 48 48.5 49 49.5
in 18.7 18.7 18.7 18.7 18.7 18.8 19 19.3 19.4

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 PRINTING/ASSEMBLING

Once you have downloaded/received the files: 4. Print the remaining pages

1. Choose where you want to print the pattern Make sure you’re printing in black & white and not on both sides!

At home with the A4/US Letter or at a shop in the A0 5. Assemble the pages
format. Cut or fold along the bottom and right lines of your pages.
2. Open with Acrobat Reader & hide layers Place them in order following the overview of the pages’
layout and tape or glue them together, matching the black
On Acrobat Reader, in the tool bar look for this icon.
squares in the corners and making sure the lines of the
It should say “show, hide or modify layered content”
patterns are aligned.
Each layer will be appear with eye icon next to them. Toggle
off the layer sizes you won't be using. 6. Following your size line, cut the pattern pieces

3. Print the first page with the calibration square only to

test your printer’s settings
You are now ready to cut your fabric!
Once printed, measure the calibration square to ensure it will
print to the correct scale. If it isn’t printed to the correct
scale, adjust your printer settings.
You should set it to 100% scale or Actual, and choose the
appropriate paper size (A4 or US Letter; they are close but
not the same). See screenshot on next page.

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 Example of my printer’s settings (from Acrobat Reader on a Macbook Pro)

This is where I
would change my
printer’s paper size
(A4 or US letter)

Make sure you are printing from the downloaded file in Acrobat Reader
and not from the PDF preview from your browser. The settings will be
different.

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 FABRIC & SUPPLIES
Without the ruffle hem
Required Fabric - metric and imperial

Width of your fabric 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

145 cm/57"
meters 0.85 0.85 0.85 0.85 0.85 0.85 0.90 0.90 0.90
yards 0.95 0.95 0.95 0.95 0.95 0.95 1 1 1

110 cm/43"
meters 0.95 0.95 0.95 0.95 0.95 1 1.1 1.1 1.1
yards 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.1 1.2 1.2 1.2

With the ruffle hem

Required Fabric - metric and imperial

Width of your fabric 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

145 cm/57"
meters 0.85 1.5 1.5 1.6 1.6 1.65 1.7 1.8 1.85
yards 0.95 1.65 1.65 1.75 1.75 1.8 1.9 2 2.05

110 cm/43"
meters 0.85 1.5 1.5 1.6 1.6 1.65 1.7 1.8 1.85
yards 0.95 1.65 1.65 1.75 1.75 1.8 1.9 2 2.05

Tip: If you don’t have enough fabric to make the ruffle in 1 long continuous strip you can cut 2 strips and sew them together at one of the short edges to make one long strip.

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 Recommended fabrics

Woven or knit fabrics - light to medium weight

Organic cotton voile (be aware of the transparency), poplin, double gauze, crinkled, or batiste
European linen (between 125 gsm to 205 gsm)
Knit fabrics with no elastane: pointelle, jersey, rib

Supplies
Essentials
A thread cutter & seam ripper

Overcasting foot if not using a serger

All purpose thread. I like to use organic cotton or Gütermann recycled polyester. If
you’re using a serger remember to buy 5 spools of the same color.

For woven fabrics: universal non-stretch needle, size 70 to 90 depending on your fabric
For knit fabrics: universal stretch needle, size 70 to 90 depending on your fabric

Extra (but very useful!)

A 6 mm or 1/4" rolled hem pressure foot

A loop turner, at least 28 cm or 11" long

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 PATTERN INVENTORY TRACE & CUT YOURSELF
The measurements for each size are on the next page
1 FRONT
Cut 2 mirrored Note: if you’re using a knit fabric you don’t have to cut the bias strips
at a 45° angle, simply cut them along the grainline.
For woven fabrics, cut the bias strips at a 45° angle from the grainline,
I use a ruler marked with angles lines.

Cut the neck bias x2 Cut the armhole bias x2

For each keep one short edge
at a 45° angle.

2 BACK
Cut 1 on fold
Cut the ties x4 - parallel or perpendicular to the grainline
33 cm x 3 cm
13 in x 1.2 in
(it’s the same for all sizes)

Optional: Cut the ruffle x1 - parallel or perpendicular to the grainline

all seam allowances included

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 TRACE & CUT YOURSELF
all seam allowances included

Neck bias length - cut 2 - width = 2,5 cm or 1”

Size 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

cm 58 59 60 61,5 63 65,5 68 70,5 73

in 23 23.2 23.6 24.2 24.8 25.8 26.8 27.8 28.8

If doing the ruffle hem add + 4 cm or 1.6" to each strip of neck bias

Armholes bias length - cut 2 - width = 2,5 cm or 1”

Size 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

cm 51 53 55 57 59 62 65 68 71
in 20 20.8 21.6 22.4 23.2 24.4 25.5 26.7 28

Ruffle length - cut 1 - width = 6 cm or 2.6”

Size 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

cm 142 146 150 154 158 164 170 176 182

in 56 57.4 59 60.6 62.2 64.5 67 69 71.6

Tip: If you don’t have enough fabric to make the ruffle with 1 long continuous strip of
fabric you can cut 2 strips and sew them together at one of the short edges to make one
long strip (make sure to serge/overcast these short edges).

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 Please note that these
cutting layouts are just a CUTTING LAYOUT
suggestion and estimation.
You might find a different
(& better!) layout based on
Without the ruffle hem
your piece of fabric.
Sizes 0-10 Sizes 12-16
145 cm/57" width 145 cm/57" width
selvage selvage
cut edge

cut edge

cut edge
cut edge
FOLD FOLD

110 cm/43" width 110 cm/43" width

selvage selvage
cut edge

cut edge

cut edge
cut edge

FOLD FOLD

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 If you have prints on
CUTTING LAYOUT your fabric you will
most likely need more
With the ruffle hem fabric so that the
prints all face the
same direction.

145 cm/57" width

selvage

cut edge

cut edge
FOLD

selvage 110 cm/43" width

cut edge

cut edge
FOLD

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 BEFORE YOU START
I strongly advise that you prewash your fabric, especially if the manufacturer says it can shrink a bit.
It’s always a good idea to make a toile (a test garment. I like to use secondhand bed sheets) to test the sizing and fit.
Always test your stitch length/width/tension on scrap fabric, write down the settings that work for your machine(s) and fabric.
While you’re sewing always double check you are using the correct pattern piece, and are following the steps in the correct order.
Search for your sewing machine/serger model on YouTube to find tips & tutorials on how to troubleshoot issues.
Press your seams as you go. I like to press my seams open then to the back before finishing them.
Practice skills like sewing the bias or using the loop turner on scrap fabric.

Take your time! Remember it’s okay to make mistakes, this is how you learn :)

Straight stitch on the sewing machine: Overlocking on the serger:

length: 2.5 tension: 4
Tension:
Left needle: 3-4 Upper looper: 3-4
Don’t forget to backstitch at the beginning
Right needle: 3-4 Lower looper: 3-4
and end of your stitch.

Width: 5.5
Overcasting on the sewing machine:
Length: 2-4
youtube tutorial Differential feed: 1

Basting stitch:
length 5 (max) tension: 2-3

Copyright 2024 Gold & Skye. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit. #violettetop by @goldandskyepatterns 18
Glossary
Backtack: To lock the beginning or end of a seam by sewing forward for a few stitches and then reversing to sew backwards
directly over the same stitches.
Basting stitch: a loose temporary sewing stitch used to gather fabric or sew two pieces of garment together temporarily.
Bias: The bias direction of a piece of woven fabric is at 45 degrees to its warp and weft threads. Every piece of woven fabric
has two biases, perpendicular to each other.
Bias tape: (or bias binding) is a narrow strip of fabric, cut on the bias to make it stretchier as well as more fluid and more
drapeable compared to a strip that is cut on grain.
Casing: fabric tunnel through which elastic or a drawstring can be threaded to pull in or draw up the fabric.
Grainline: the lengthwise and crosswise grain of fabric refer to the directions parallel to the warp and weft, respectively. The
grainline indicates parallel to the threads of a woven fabric, lengthwise or crosswise.
Seam allowance: the area between the edge of fabric and the stitching line on two (or more) pieces of material being stitched
together.
Selvage: an edge produced on woven fabric during manufacture that prevents it from unravelling.
Topstitch: a row of continuous stitches on the right side of a garment.
Understitch: method used to keep facings, linings, and underlayers from rolling out or peeking through to the right side
of a garment

Share your makes!

in your posts or stories
Need help with your sewing pattern?
#violettetop
Feel free to email me at loise@[Link] or message me on Instagram #goldandskyepatterns

[Link]/patterns @goldandskyepatterns

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 INSTRUCTIONS Right side

Wrong side

1. Sew the ties 2. Prep the neck bias

For each strip of fabric,
fold lengthwise right sides
together, sew at 7 mm or Placing one of the strips on
1/4" from the fold. top of the other at a 45°
Trim seam allowance to 3 angle, short edges together
mm or 1/8". and sew at 1 cm or 3/8" to
create one long bias strip.
Tip: 6-7 mm or 1/4" = the
edge of the fabric aligned with
the edge of the pressure foot.
If using a knit fabric use a zigzag stitch for here because you’ll be pulling on the
ties when tying them. Length: 2/Width: 2-3

Press seam
open and
Turn them right side out using a snip off the
loop turner (video tutorial) or corners. Set
another method. Set aside. aside.

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2. Sew the shoulders & side seams
Finish seams by
overlocking or
overcasting.
Sew the Front and Back
pattern pieces right sides
together at 1 cm or 3/8"
at the shoulders and the
side seams.

Skip to step 4 if doing a regular hem.

3. Sew the ruffle hem

Press all the seams open and press again to the back. If making the ruffle in 2 pieces: finish 1 short edge on each, sew them right
sides together, and press open before procedeeing.

a. Hem the Sew along the

ruffle by folded edge. I use
folding one of a rolled hem
its long edges pressure foot
twice by 7 mm (size 6).
or 1/4". You
On the raw
can press the
long edge,
fold to make it
mark the center
easier.
of the ruffle on
the wrong side.

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3. Sew the ruffle hem, cont.
c. Mark the center of the Back at the bottom edge and pin the
center of the ruffle to it. Pin the ends of the ruffle to the edges of
b. On the wrong side of the ruffle, sew a first basting stitch
the center Front pieces.
along the top using a 7 mm or 1/4" seam allowance, check the
direction of the print if applicable. Length 5 or max, tension 2-3.

DO NOT backstitch at the beginning or end, instead leave a

long tail on the top thread and cut the bobbin thread as usual.

With the right edge of your presser foot aligned with

front back front
the first row of basting stitches, sew a second row of
basting stitches.

To create the gathers, pull on the long threads on each side

until the width of the ruffle matches the bottom of the top.
Spread the gathers as evenly as possible and pin in place.

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3. Sew the ruffle hem, cont. Press the seam
allowance toward the
Sew at 1 cm or 3/8" (between the two rows). If you’re
top pressing the
confident on the serger you can skip the sewing machine
ruffles down at the
and directly serge.
same time.

back front
d. From the right side, topstitch the seam allowance to the
top, along the edge of the seam.
Make sure you are catching the seam allowance underneath
at all times, you should be able to feel it with your fingers.

front back

Remove the basting stitches by gently pulling on them at

one end, the fabric will start gathering but slide it along the
stitches and the threads will start coming out.

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 Right side

4. Sew the neck bias

Wrong side

a. Place bias tape right sides together on the left front

panel, folding the end over by 1 cm or 3/8" to enclose the
raw edge. Insert ties between marks and secure with
sewing clips.
Sew at 7 mm or 1/4".
Video: how to sew double fold bias
When sewing over the
ties I like to backstitch
over them to make sure
the seam is strong.
Note: you can easily
modify the ties placement
as you wish! This is
simply where I prefer
having them for optimal In the curves, gently
coverage. stretch the bias tape to
follow the shape of the
neckline.

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4. Sew the neck bias, cont. c. From the right side, understitch the bias tape to the
seam allowance at 1-2 mm or 1/16" along the seam.

This is a good time to

check that the ties are
well aligned in front
on each other on each
side.
Snip off the ends of
the ties that extend
past the seam
allowance.

From the right

side, press the
bias tape
toward the
seam
allowance.

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4. Sew the neck bias, cont. Sew the bias tape to the front bodice at 1-2 mm or
1/16" along the folded edge. Give it a good press.
This is what it should look like!
Fold over the bias tape twice to the wrong side, enclosing
the raw edge. You can pin in or simply fold it over as you
sew.

Understitch
from step c

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5. Sew the armholes bias
b. Sew the bias tape to the
armhole at 7 mm or 1/4"
To finish the armholes we will use the the same technique front/back
slightly stretching it in the
described above for the neckline, except that we will join
curves. When arriving
the bias tape at the side seam to make a circle.
back to the side seam,
a. Fold one short edge of your bias tape by 1 cm or 3/8" keep sewing your bias tape front/back
to the wrong side. Place your bias tape right sides together on top of the folded end
at the side seam. The fold should be right in front it. from the beginning of the
bias to overlap them, just
sew enough to cover the
fold.

front/back
Cut off the excess bias
tape.
front/back front/back
front/back

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5. Sew the armholes bias, cont. d. From the right
side, understitch the
c. Flip the bias tape over to the right side and sew the bias to the seam
two ends of the bias tape together (the folded edge will allowance, just as you
be on top on the raw edge). did for the neckline.

There might a be a
little point that
formed at the seam,
cut it off so that your
bias is straight.

front/back front/back

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5. Sew the armholes bias, cont. Repeat for the other armhole and press.

f. Now fold your bias tape twice to the wrong side of the
top to enclose the raw edge and sew along the folded
edge.

6. Hem (if you didn’t do the ruffle hem)

Fold the bottom edge of your top to the wrong side twice
by 6 mm or 1/4". If you’re not using a rolled hem pressure
foot you can use your iron to press as you fold. Sew along
the folded edge, as close to it as you can.

Copyright 2024 Gold & Skye. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit. #violettetop by @goldandskyepatterns 29
 Congratulations! You’ve done it :)

I hope you are proud of yourself and excited to wear your new top.

Thank you for supporting my small business!

Loïse

Copyright 2024 Gold & Skye. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit. #violettetop by @goldandskyepatterns 30
 REVIEW
You could take note of any part of the construction of this top that gave you some trouble. What would you like to
practice next time? Which steps came more naturally to you?

How do you like your fabric choice? What fabric would you like to use next time?

Are there techniques you learnt that you could apply to other projects? Could you modify the pattern in any way to make it
more unique?

Share your creation!

In your posts or stories tag

#violettetop

@goldandskyepatterns
Legal disclaimer: The pattern and instructions that come with it are copyrighted by Gold and Skye. You may only use
this for personal use. Please do not share this file or your account information with others. Your referral to others is the best
support you can provide if you are a fan of my work!

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