NATIONAL TECHNICAL SCHOOL 'LICTO'

BACHELOR'S DEGREE IN TEXTILE INDUSTRIES

SPECIALIZATION IN THE CLOTHING INDUSTRY

ASSEMBLY TECHNIQUES MODULE

SECOND YEAR OF BACCALAUREATE

TUTOTA: LIC. PATRICIA GUAMAN

RIOBAMBA–ECUADOR

2009 - 2010
OBJECTIVE OF THE TRAINING MODULE

PREPARE THE EQUIPMENT AND MACHINES INVOLVED IN THE PROCESS, AND

ASSEMBLE THE COMPONENTS OF GARMENTS, ACCESSORIES OF
DRESSING AND ITEMS, CONTROLLING THE PROCESS IN AN AUTONOMOUS MANNER AND
METHODICAL, WITH THE REQUIRED QUALITY CHARACTERISTICS.

SPECIFIC OBJECTIVES

ANALYZE THE ASSEMBLY PROCESS

•KNOW THE DIFFERENT ASSEMBLY SYSTEMS.
KNOW AND HANDLE SEWING MACHINES.
CARRY OUT THE PREPARATION AND ASSEMBLY BY SEWING
SECONDARY FABRIC GARMENTS.
•CARRY OUT COMPLETE ASSEMBLY PROCESSES, FOR OBTAINING
Garments or articles in fabric.
INTRODUCTION

Fashion is a specialized way of adorning the body. Travelers and explorers were the
the first to document and comment on the body adornments and styles of dress they found in
around the world. Some returned from their travels with drawings and examples of clothing, provoking a
I desire not only for the products but also to understand them, then the study of clothes became
in one part of anthropology: the scientific study of human beings. Since then, analysts
The functions of clothing have focused on four aspects: utility, modesty, boldness, and adornment.

Utility.- Clothing has evolved to find many practical and protective uses.
the environment is harsh, and the body needs to maintain an average temperature that ensures the
blood circulation and comfort. The dress reformers have prioritized utility over
aesthetic considerations. For example, in 1850, the publicist Amelia Broomer highlighted how impractical it was.
what it was to wear the crinoline and defended the use of women's pants, called pantaletas or bombachos.

Modesty.- We need clothes to cover our nakedness, society demands decency and often
promulgates laws to control extravagance and support decorum. Most people feel
insecure when exposing her physical imperfections, especially as they get older,
The dress disguises and conceals our flaws.

Daring.- Clothing can be used to enhance the sexual appeal of the wearer. The role
The traditional view of women as passive sexual objects has contributed to the greater eroticization of clothing.

female. Evening dresses and lingerie are made from fabrics that mimic the texture of
skin.

Ornaments allow to enrich physical charms, affirm creativity and individuality.

indicate the rank within a group or culture. Ornaments can go against comfort, health.
like foot binding, the use of corsets, tattoos, and piercings. They can also be adornments
permanent or temporary, increases and reductions of the human body.

But all of this would not be possible if there were not a strong industry that supports and is capable of
providing a service to the market, finding the origin of industrial textiles is difficult, but it can be done
to assert that from the first decade of the 18th century the first manifestations appear
production clothing industries, such as the sewing machine invented by a tailor in 1830
French Barthelémy Thimonnier, then the invention of the sewing machine pedal by Isaac Singer.
These inventions reduced the time spent making garments. The use of the
sewing machine exposed that cutting with tailor's scissors was too slow for
to satisfy the growing demand for tailored garments, and it was Jhon Barran who solved it in 1856
The problem of replacing the saw type with a blade for cutting layers of fabric.
sewing machine and the cutting machine were the mechanical aids from which the
garment industry

ASSEMBLY

TECHNIQUE.- Set of procedures for the industrial or scientific exploitation of the

elements of nature (energy, raw materials) and their derivatives. Technique, is the person who
has the special knowledge of a science or an art.

Assembly.- Joining two or more pieces of wood through cuts that produce projections or
spikes in one of them and fit with others. The assembly can be made at an angle,
joining by the ends or joining by the edges. From this concept we can deduce that the
Assembly in industrial sewing will be the set of procedures to join two or more
pieces of fabric through machine sewing and making garments and/or articles.

ASSEMBLY WORKSHOP

The assembly shop must be a spacious place according to the amount of production it carries out.
company, with natural light or sufficient brightness, the correct and protected electrical installations,
ventilation and sufficient water, the machinery ready for work, the same that must have a
special maintenance according to production, among the most important within the confection
we have straight or flat sewing machines, industrial overlock machines, buttonhole machines, and coverstitch machines

covering machine, eyelet machine, not forgetting the threads in different colors and other necessary elements for
the normal operation of an assembly workshop.

TYPES OF ASSEMBLY

There are three types of assemblies: by gluing, by sewing, and by thermal fixing. BY GLUING.- This
the system aims to join pieces of garments and/or articles, through gluing either with rubber or
resins resistant to frequent use that give to that object, for example leather garments, wallets,
wallets, planners, phone holders, caps, home decorations like pencil holders, jewelry boxes,
powders, keychains, and other items that the person's skill and taste can create.

BY SEWING.- In this system, work is done using a sewing machine and threads.
colors and of different quality, joining various pieces or elements both main and secondary
and transforming into garments that can be for men, women, and children, whether these garments are
jackets, pants, sports blouses, lingerie, and elegant clothing such as party dresses
and several occasions including the wedding dress. Men's shirts, etc.

FOR THERMAL FIXING.- it is the system by which adhesive interlinings are applied with heat.
in the pieces of garments or items that require this process, which involve certain resins
distributed homogeneously. In this system, there are two basic types, one for those that have
plato-thermal press- fixing, and two of those who have thermal-fixing machines.
SEWING TECHNOLOGY

The fundamental element of sewing is the sewing machine. Regarding the machine, it is advisable to make
two points, first of all, under such a name includes a large number of machines that
they can perform numerous operations / some of them highly specialized. However, the type
The most widely used machine is the so-called "flat/this is a flat-base machine, of a
needle, two threads, simple feed and double stitch (301)

Secondly, the technological action performed by the sewing machine is complemented with the
action of the worker, constituting this set the workplace, with which the element
sewing machine is nothing more than a tool placed in the hands of the person to perform the
operation of 'sewing' with greater speed and less effort. The result of this operation will depend on
both factors, the technical and the human.

The fundamental mission of the sewing machine is to join two or more fabrics, or to embellish them.
through the sewing thread as an element of union or decoration. The parameters involved in the
sewing is mainly:

Type of stitch
Type of stitching
The sewing needle
The sewing thread
The towing system

THE STITCH

Concept.- The stitch is the unit of interlacing or binding of one or several threads together and to
through, or inside, a material at uniform intervals.

To make the stitch, each machine has its own mechanisms coordinated by means of shafts,
cranks, rods, eccentrics, gears, belts, and other types of joints and devices
motion transmission.

There are, therefore, various types of machines according to this technological differentiation:

Simple chain stitch machines

Double stitching machines
Double chain stitch machines
Cover stitch machines
Overlock sewing machines

The formation of any stitch is carried out in the following steps:

1. Penetration.- The needle penetrates the tissue introducing the thread.

[Link].- When the needle rises, after reaching its lowest points in its path, the thread
temporarily held due to contact with the material that has penetrated a
loop.

3. Shaping - It is the arrangement of the thread on top, underneath, and inside the material. At this stage it i

Where are the differences between the different types of stitches? Each type of stitch has its ...
own characteristics of shape and utility. These differences are driven by the variation in the
design, position, and movement of the mechanisms involved in stitch formation
specific.

4. Detachment - It occurs when the needle thread loop, after it has wrapped around the thread
inferior (or its own previous thread loop) detaches from the lower mechanism of formation of the
stitch.
5. Adjustment.- The threads that form the stitch are pulled up and tightened, ensuring the
connected in e-l gender (see chart 5-5)

STITCH FORMATION

Formation of the simple chain stitch 101.

The process of forming stitch 101 is represented below:

In phase I, it is observed how the two breasts are pierced by needle A, while anchor B,
which has an oscillating movement, is away from the needle.

In phase II, the needle rises, leaving a loop of thread inside which the anchor penetrates.

In phase III, the thread loop is held by the anchor, while the needle returns during its ascent.
transfer the threads, which advance the space like a stitch according to the direction of the date.

And finally, in phase IV, the needle descends, passes through the fabrics, and penetrates into the loop of retained thread.

by the anchor. From here the cycle repeats obtaining stitch 101.

FORMATION OF THE DOUBLE STITCH STITCH 301

Stitch 301 is made up of a needle thread and a bobbin thread.

Below the stitching area is the bobbin located inside a capsule surrounded by
the rotating spiral as shown in the following figure.
The breakdown of the entire set where the faucet is integrated is shown in the following figure.

FORMATION OF THE DOUBLE CHAIN STITCH 401

Stitch 401 results from the coordination of the needle and anchor movements (with thread),
representing their process in the figure

In stage I, the two fabrics seen in cross-section are pierced by needle A, while the
Anchor B, provided with its thread, waits for the moment to act.

In stage II, the anchor penetrates behind the needle into the loop of the needle thread left when
this goes up.

In stage III the needle finishes its ascent, leaving the tissues that advance the length of a stitch.
towards the back of the figure, while the anchor holds the loop of the needle's thread.
Finally, in stage IV, the needle penetrates the fabrics again and at the same time enters the loop.
from the anchor thread, and then repeat the cycle.

FORMATION OF OVERLOCK STITCHES 503-504

The stitch 503 is formed by a needle thread and an anchor thread; it also acts on the part
inferior of the machine another anchor without thread.

Stitch 504 is made up of a needle thread and two anchor threads. The formation process of
stitches 503-504 are represented in figures 5.10 A and 5.10 B

FORMATION OF THE COVER STITCH 602

Stitch 602 is made up of two needle threads, one anchor lower covering thread, and a
upper covering thread of a distributor (figure 5.12 A). Each needle creates its chain.
while the anchor penetrates the loops of thread left by the needles, it deposits the thread that
it will cover the seam at the bottom. So that the anchor thread is trapped by the threads of
the needles are necessary, that the position of the anchor corresponds once in front of the needles, and another
behind. The upper covering thread goes behind the loop of a needle and then in front of the loop
from the other needle before it penetrates the material. (Figure 5.12 B)

Adjust the threads that form the stitch are pulled up and tightened ensuring the linkage in
the gender (see previous graph)

TYPES OF STITCHES

The elemental base of sewing - the unit of interlacing - is the stitch, and a series of stitches.
Successive stitches of the same configuration define a type of stitch.

Stitches are divided into six main groups, each of which contains various types of stitches.
Two more groups are added to these main ones:

Group stitch 100 simple chain stitch

It is made up of one or more threads introduced from the side of the material only. It is used for a
temporary stitching or for invisible stitch.
Stitch group 200 hand stitch

It is made up of simple threads passed from one side to the other of the material and successive penetrations of the

Needle. It can also be done by machine (imitation of hand).

Stitch group 300 double topstitch

It is formed by the thread or threads of a needle inserted from one side of the material, which is
intertwine with a lower thread supplied from a tap on the other side.

The simplest one, type 301, has a similar appearance on both sides and good seam strength.
abrasion. The disadvantage is the limited length of sewing possible before having to replace the
faucet

Stitch group 400 double chain stitch

This type differs from the 100 in that it uses an additional lower or anchor thread and this generally remains
on the lower surface of the material and the needle's thread passes through it to balance the
stitch.

It can be formed with low tensions, thereby increasing the extensibility of the seam and has a
productivity advantage over the double stitch because the threads are fed directly
of bobbins and not spool holders. The disadvantage is that it has less resistance to unravelling than the one from

stitching and which are bulkier under the seam.

Group 500 overlocking stitch

It is made up of one or more threads of the needle and/or the anchor, with at least one of the threads passing through

on the edge of the material that is being sewn. There are many variations within this class that
it incorporates from 1 to 4 threads, of which only one is a needle thread. It is generally used to join the
cut edges of a layer of fabric or to sew and finish the edge of two layers in a single operation,
particularly in knit fabric since the stitch configuration has excellent
extensibility.

Within this type of stitch, there are various types that incorporate two needle threads. The second thread
the needle is inserted a little further from the cut edge, providing greater security to the seam
comparison with the single needle version.

Stitch group 500 covering stitch

The types of stitch in this class generally use between two and four needle threads, usually one thread of
anchor and one or two covering threads. The covering thread or the covering threads are located above
from the upper surface and are held by the threads of the needle, and the thread or threads of the anchor are
they intertwine with all the threads of the needle under the fabric.

All these stitches are highly elastic and produce flat seams. In addition to these six groups
The main stitches have two additional groups that derive from the previous ones.

The sewing thread

Concept.- Long and thin strand of a textile material. Sewing thread is fine and strong, by the
It is a general type of two twisted strands that is used for sewing. The material that is involved in its composition

the thread can be of two types:

 Natural

Synthetic

The most commonly used natural fiber thread for making sewing thread is cotton. The threads
synthetics are made of polyamide and polyester.

PROPERTIES OF FIBERS COMMONLY USED IN YARNS

NYLON POLYESTER COTTON

Breaking strength (g/dtex) 4-8 4-7 3.5-4.5

Extension until break. 16-40 6-30 5-10

Absorption of 1-14 1-38 1 -54

humidity (%)
4-5 0-4 8-0

Melting point (° C) Point of 215-250 250 It carbonizes at 200

softening (° C)
170-180 210-230 It weakens at 150

Resistance to acids Regular Good Poor

Resistance to alkalis Good Good Good

Table 5-5

TYPES AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF SEWING THREADS

Cotton threads are of three types:

Smooth

Mercerized

Polished

The soft threads do not receive any special treatment other than bleaching or dyeing and the
uniform application of a low-friction lubricant.

Mercerized threads are threads treated under tension in a caustic soda solution.

The polished threads are produced from soft threads, which have been hardened and protected.
by applying a special finish to the surface.

Cotton threads generally provide good sewing performance, but their resistance to
abrasion is lower than that of synthetic threads of the same thickness. However, they are less affected.
due to the heat of the needle that the synthetics experience during sewing.

Soft cotton threads generally have a high moisture shrinkage that can cause
wrinkled at the seams after washing. The mercerized cotton threads have a tensile strength
higher and a greater brightness than soft cotton ones. They can produce gathers at the seams
after washing.

The polished cotton threads (glacé) are stiffer, but they have a greater resistance to abrasion.
that the threads of soft cotton.

Synthetic thread types can be classified into:

Of cut fiber

Covered

Continuous filament

Monofilament

Textured

Cut fiber polyester threads have good performance in sewing and good stability.
dimensional. Its abrasion resistance is superior to cotton threads. The polyamide threads of
cut fiber has excellent elasticity.

The coated threads (corespun) are made up of a core of continuous filament and a wrapping.
of fiber. The core produces high strength and the cotton cover provides protection
maximum against deterioration that may arise from the heat of the needle in sewing operations
severe,

The continuous filament polyamide threads have tenacity and abrasion resistance.
superior to those of polyester.

Monofilaments have the advantage of being relatively low-cost and partially transparent.
Being a single filament of circular section: it takes on a color close to that of the background fabric. These threads
they should not be used for applications that may come into contact with the skin or on delicate fabrics, and
are more suitable for decorative textiles

Textured threads have a soft touch, great extensibility, and good elastic recovery.
They are designed for seam coating operations

RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN THE MEASUREMENTS OF THE THREAD AND THE NEEDLE

Once the type of fiber and thread type have been decided, consideration must be given to the thickness of the thread.

The main numbering systems that exist internationally for sewing threads are:

Metric numbering Nm

English Cotton Counting No

System Tex
 Label number No

The first three mentioned are used in the textile sector, while the system, of number of
label is the one that is most used in the clothing sector.

The label number, with the usual symbol No and Nr, is derived from the metric Nm, but does not reveal
How many simple strands make up the thread? The label number is always based on a three-strand thread.
cables, although it consists of more or less.

Example

No 120 it can be Nm 80/2 ó Nm 120/3

No 100 it may be Nm 65/2 ó Nm 100/3

The appropriate sewing depends on the relationships between the thread, the needle, and the material.

A very thick needle can give very poor control of the thread, in which case, the tip of the
The rotary hook (spiral) or the anchor may not penetrate through the loop of the thread, posing a consequent danger.
that skipped stitches may occur. Also, if the needle is disproportionately thick, the thread
it might not cover the gap produced in the genre, so that if this gap does not close.
spontaneously it will result in an unacceptable seam.

If the needle is too fine for the needle to pass freely through the eye and the
Slots, the thread will suffer excessive abrasion and may break.

The use of a needle that is too fine in thick layers of material can lead to excessive bending.
of the needle that can affect the collection of the thread loop of the needle and be the cause of stitches
irregularities with the risk of breaking the needle. On the other hand, a needle that is too thick in a
very thin sewing material increases the risk of damaging it and creating gathers in the
seams due to the distortion of the material.

It is important to emphasize that the thickness of the needle is not solely dependent on the thickness of the fabrics, but

also of the seam strength and this depends on the thread strength, the stitch length
and of the type of stitch.

The seam angle, with respect to the direction of the warp, is important in terms of
seam resistance, as shown in figure 5-25.
To help achieve the correct balance between the thread size and the needle, manufacturers of
Threads have prepared tables that indicate some of the suggested relationships of thread measurements and
needle. One of them is the one shown in table 5-6.

THREAD CONSUMPTION

To help clarify the thread needs for a 1 cm seam, table 5.1 provides us with the
consumptions, according to the different types of stitches, based on the following characteristics;

Stitch length: 2.5 mm.

Material thickness: 1 mm.

Needle separation: 5 mm.

Seam width: 5 mm.

Cover stitch width: 5 mm.

TYPE OF STITCH N" normalized Thread consumption

A thread chain 101 3.800 mm.

Normal stitching (2 threads) 301 2.800 mm.

Normal Zig-Zag Stitch (2 threads) 304 5.280 mm.

Two-thread chain 401 4.800mm.

2 needles, lower coating 406 11.840 mm

3 needles lower coating 407 18.880 mm

Overlocked with 2 threads 502 and 503 12.080 mm

Overlocked with 3 threads 504 13.880 mm

Overlocked with 4 threads 506 and 507 16.880 mm

2 needles, upper and lower coating 602 16.080 mm

2 needles, double upper coating and single lower coating 603 16.32 mm

3 needles top coating 604 23.360 mm

3 needles, upper and lower coating 605 25.120mm

606
4 needles, upper and lower coating 40.400 mm

Security stitch 301 + 502 14.880 mm

Safety stitch 401 + 502 16.880 mm

Security stitch 401 +602 20.880 mm

Security stitch 401 + 603 21.120mm

Table 5.1

Table 5-2 shows thread consumption based on the type of garment.

made, it also indicates the percentage proportion between needle thread and bobbin or anchor.

It is worth noting that these values are only approximate, as thread consumption is a function of
a series of parameters likely to experience a significant variation.

ARTICLE TOTAL APPROXIMATELY % Thread used between Spool and

IN THREAD METERS needle

NEEDLE faucet

Women's swimsuits 170 40 60

Swimwear (Men)
75 40 60
bathrobe 40
50 60

Bed cover 20 50 50
Sport jacket 256 50 50
Blouses 108 40 60

Sostenes 65 50 50
Guaraní (lady) 40 45 55
Gloves (men) 45 50 50
Towels 6 50 50
Baby T-shirts 33 60 60
Underwear 80 40 60

Shirts 103 40 60
T-shirts 80 35 65
Pants 238 50 50

Hats (lady) 35 60 40
Hats (men) 22 65 35
Men's jackets 530 55 45

Dresses 151 45 55
Suit jackets 425 60 40
Ties 6 50 50

Women's coats 494 55 45

Lingerie 99 50 50
Nightgowns 100 35 65

Overcoats (ladies) 247 50 50

Coats (men) 261 50 50
Skirts 99 40 60
Anoraks 300 50 50
Pajamas (women's) 130 45 55
Pajamas (men's) 145 45 55

Combinations 140 30 70
Outside point (man) 50 30 70
Outside point (lady) 40 30 70

Impermeable (madam) 100 50 50

raincoats (men) 115 50 50
jeans 175 45 55

Women's shoes 35 50 50
Men's shoes 40 50 50
Aprons 26 50 50

Umbrella 11 50 50
Sweaters 215 60 40
Suitcase 115 50 50
 THREAD PRESENTATION

It is important, in addition to selecting the appropriate thread for a given operation, to choose the
presentation of the thread most suitable for the machines and the type of production methods used.
There are two large groups (fig 5-26)

Small capacity coils

Large capacity spools

Short

Small capacity coils are used when changes are needed.

frequent colors.

The two most common coils are;

The reel

The cop •••

The bobbin is mainly used in domestic sewing machines, where the speeds are
it is low and large productions are not required. However, thread spools are still used in
certain measure in machinery; industrial (in the manufacture of footwear, leather goods and in
some industrial hand sewing operations.

This cop or flat coil is a type of small capacity coil suitable for machines.
low to medium speed industrials. It is the traditional presentation in the fashion industry in which
a wide variety of colors is used and the series are short. They can contain from one thousand to two meters. They are not

suitable for threads with a glazed finish or very fine filament threads in which [Link]
slipping problems. High-capacity coils are suitable for large series of
high-speed sewing production, as it is necessary then to have thread spools that are
capable of providing a low and uniform thread output voltage, while at the same time,
contain the large amount of thread needed to prevent frequent stops for reloading.

These requirements are found in

The cone.

The carretube

The cone contains relatively long lengths of thread, five thousand meters or more. The spool is,
basically, a coil with parallel sides provided with a conical upper section. They can contain
long or short thread lengths. They are designed to prevent any slipping of the thread that
could happen.

THREAD STORAGE

Incorrect storage of the thread can have an adverse effect on its performance as long as it is
Storage should be in a clean atmosphere free of dust and away from direct exposure.
of the sunlight.

The ambient temperature and humidity in the warehouse are also very important; they must be maintained.
little variation as possible, to avoid 'Tespiryúon' of storage packaging that to
the long could contribute to i$ forfn?^ión fíe .^'obo. The conditions ideal is of stored are: '

T (° C)

15 to 25 40 - 60

give time g&fi:

the defects

Lost, by insistence

V AL'.a íricciór; •.

Weakening of the color or yellowing in white threads.

9t

TYPES OF SEAMS AND STITCHES

Sewing is understood as a series of stitches that join two or more pieces of material and

used to join the pieces in the production of sewn items.

It is embroidered with a series of stitches used for ornamentation, to give

finish the edges or reinforce some part of the garment.

The seams and stitches are divided into six large groups, in each of which there are

various types:

SS group seams; overlapping seams

This group of seams is characterized by the fact that the material pieces are

overlaid and joined by one or more rows of stitches.

Group L seams $: lapped seams

This group of seams is characterized by being overlapping at the edges and

joined by one or more rows of stitches.

Group B Sewing: piped seams

This group of seams is characterized by being formed by a trim.

fold that covers the edge of one or more pieces and is attached to it by one or more

rows of stitches.

Group OS stitches: decorative topstitches

This group of stitches has the general characteristic that a series of stitches are

incorporated into the material in a straight line, curve, or following an ornamental drawing.

Seams Group E F; finishing stitches of the hem

This group of stitches has the general characteristic that a series of stitches are

situated on or over the edge of the bent or unbent material, or as in the OS group that

the edge of the material is folded and joined to the body with a series of stitches.

The different types of seams and topstitching are designated and identified by two

uppercase letters (group reference) followed by one or two lowercase letters and a

number preceded by a dash (number of rows of stitches).

S5a

£$k

SSi

TR:.ID

sst

SSu

SS-C

SSrt

:sm

S5cc

¡. --L •-I- T3

rnp

[Eg
SEWING GROUP

3 and 4 STITCHES GROUPS ES, FS

5 and 6 SEAMS GROUPS OS, EF

TYPES OF SEWING WORK

The different types of sewing work are defined based on: The number of pieces worked on in a
operation given of the general type of sewing

TYPES OF WORK TYPES OF WAIST

DEFINITIONS

Overlock stitching •\ > Edge protection mediiM? chain or -

overwhelmed;)-

Pleated J—-Kíx ;

Simple edge Maintenance d* 1JO bent edge a time

about itself about a width that does not exceed general requirement one: cm. by means of a
seam [Link] to the fold; the double is often referred to as -glazed- when the seam
it does not fully cross; but the folded edge to be -invisible- from the opposite side of you
double.

Double edged •£- ~-—~ Mentoring of a border folded twice

about himself. The 2 values of the folds can be: —equal _^.^~---y
Like the fold, I fold you Ducdc to be made through - • —cosfuia That will bring
lotalmenie icxjas las cií¿s; —sewing -invliibk- on the opuiilo side 1 of the tíoblei.

Union Maintenance of a folded p¡c¡B between ii niisrr.a for

u^s—perpendicular to the fold ü —reaching the Lié: on the fold.

Gathered /y Maintenance through a series of urea coirura

small ondiülactonei perpc"d¡ with sewing.

Union -1 i, ~~f f In s. ambla I speak of 2 or several pieces about

the ijrvc of your tordes su-pcrijueiros. cxjn a ptMil straight and curved. I

..... 4--f- Closed profile steel structures (select c with yours and

Placement or positioning __ I ---- L 1 Efiíairitjiaie with profile

recycle, curve or correct in the radius of p'ic'í.i

Í~ - T

Load backstitch 2. ____ ^ ! Cosiura heclij the edge of

a filament of the gases: -~ to demonstrate one of the grenades ".
vibration of eii^Kinblj|e: -—carried out: gruyère for one and other partition of the cciíu-ra

Bnlicirjr of tníamblajc of Jireles.

To fold one fabric over another Oe

It seems that the text is not in a recognizable 2languagepiei»3
or contains errors. Please provide a clear text for translation.

I want you to tell me one of the secrets about the airo, pccvi.^ i^jjrjri of
ErmimLlaje

Piping Protection of uní a bitter wines

!!i'flui'firtgv-íí[Link]? - -v £•' [Link] .through u(u pitia to CibjHo «r. the or loi
boruéí r.

- - i Mj(-,tf.i!ifiin:'1UO Cfl íij'-'l: 0 suv.i:rlicie L¡-^ (I, - as

fii unj Í--3SJ

ASSEMBLY BY SEWING OF SECONDARY COMPONENTS OF

Fabrics

The work systems in a sewing workshop or micro-enterprise require techniques.

specific to the organization of work and production that arise from this field
work. The work systems are varied and must respond to the needs of the

company, or better said to the objectives set by the Technical Management.

All clothing and items are made up of various elements, both

mainly as well as secondary So we have that a blouse/ a pajama, a dress or a

The item or article will depend on its design to determine the number of pieces it has.

In the training system, we will start by performing simple techniques and then move on.

to the most complex.

We will start with the basic running stitch without a needle, then we will move on to the placement of the needle.

and its respective threading, after practicing we started the straight stitching on paper and on

Fabric, here we will apply a variety of shapes and their finishing touches, then we will practice.

Cut and join biases

Place biases in necklines, -in armholes or as trims

Make openings in long and short sleeves

Elaborate fist

Working on placing various views

Work pocket overlays/internal of a two-piping edge, with cover and with

wallet. Applying symmetry, strength, and solidity

OPERATING SYSTEM

When an operator works with a machine, in order to calculate the time to perform a

production unit, it is advisable to distinguish between two types of work: Work

machine: work that the machine performs without any intervention from the

worker. Manual work of the worker

On the other hand, if we examine any job position in its operational process

three essential elements intervene: ^—*••-•-*"• -^

A preparation— ,- _ f

An execution —

An evacuation

AWTI

TECHNOLOGICAL ACTION
UANMFlJLACJON

CQSliR needle

The most important part of a sewing machine is the needle. It is subjected to hard work and di
This time must be precision, the functions of the needle in the sewing machine are:

1) Produce a hole in the material through which the thread passes.

2) Thread the needle through the material and form a loop that can be picked up by a
lower mechanism.

3) Pass the needle thread through the loop formed by the anchor mechanism in machines that do not
they are of topstitch.

PAKTJvS THE NEEDLE

Figure 5.13 shows us the characteristics of a 'normal' sewing machine needle.

ifa

¡t.J*AI* '

(i) A thick needle of a wide slot (b) A strong needle with two notches

/. 5.73

The mission of the long slot is to provide a protection channel in which the 1 needle thread is.
It is driven in and out of the material at each stitch. There may be a second channel on the other side.
side of the needle to facilitate the movement of the thread to both laces while the needle is inside the
material.

The short slot object that extends above and below the eye in front of the spiral or anchor.
is to assist in the initial step of the thread and in the formation of the loop.

The groove is a recess on the needle face above the eye that allows for a greater adjustment of the hook or
anchor to the needle to facilitate the collection of the loop.

The needle points should be chosen to be suitable for the material that is going to be sewn and to
desired final effect. There are two basic types of tips:

Round Punishments

Sharp Points

Most fabrics are sewn with round-tipped needles, which

They tend to separate the threads from the fabric without damaging them.

The types of sharp round tip and thick round tip are possible.

variants of the normal tip.

When sewing knitted fabrics, the regular needle can, however, penetrate the

thread and damage the fabric. For these materials, needles should be used.

spherical tip, so that the rounded tip displaces the yarns and

expand the loops without breaking them. The spherical tipped needles exist in

three versions; light, medium, and thick, in order to adapt to the

particular constructions of the tissues. Fig.5-14

it is a little

F4—r CT H ^

2,g _

The sharp-pointed needles all have sharp tips, but there is a wide variety of them.
section furnaces in your punishment. Fig. 5-15

When sewing leather items or materials of similar density based on non-woven, the needle point cuts.
it will change the shape of the stitch and, therefore, the appearance of the seam.

Designation of the needles

Depending on the machine and a specific job, the rational choice of a needle depends on
the following factors:

The Length

The Thickness

The Shape

Rigidity

Heat Resistance

Ease of Penetration

The needle lipo is defined by:

1-LongiLud from the needle, measured from the top to the upper part of the needle.

2-Cross or diameter of the needle, which is usually expressed in hundredths of

millimeter at a midpoint of the needle's shaft. (Metric numbering Nm.)

As a guideline, the metric numbers of the needles depending on the type of garment

son

Shirt shop Nm 60 - 90

Lady's dress Nm 60-90

Suit Nm 80 - 110

[Link] Nm 100 - 120

This measurement is indicated by the different manufacturers through their number of

needle.

3-Length and shape of the tip

4-Capacity of the metal.

Warming up needles

In the constant passage of the needle through the material, friction occurs which causes the
needle heating, which can reach up to 3501', depending on the type of fabric and the speed
From the machine. This temperature does not represent a serious problem if we work with fiber fabrics.
natural, it can only happen that the needle itself loses its temper and becomes unusable, which does not
it would happen with a good quality needle. However, where the problems arise is with the
use of synthetic fibers, with the consequent softening of them. Synthetic fibers
They have the property of softening just before reaching their melting point as indicated in table 5-4.

FJbni

Cofripoiíción

tf+ Shrinking

5.4

The softening point of the fiber is crucial. for the sewing of the fibers

synthetic. While the needle is working, residues remain stuck to it.

plastically deformed that cause thread breaks and failures of [Link]. If

for the machine, * when cooling immediately the needle hardens these residues

melted and make it impossible to use it in the long term.

To reduce the needle temperature, the following measures can be taken:

Use of needles with special shapes

The needles with trunk lubrication expand the hole of slightly angled stitches.

of the needle setback, reducing friction.

In the following figure 5-16 shows a normal needle and a thick uncial needle.

5.16

In summary, the factors that influence the warming of the needle are:

1,- Factors of heating related to the machine:

Machine speed

Length of the seam

Type of stitch

Stitch length /

Shape of the needle tip

Speed of the sewing machine Needle size

stitches per minute

70 80 90

2.000 135"C 150° C 160° C

3.000 !90°C 205° C 215° C

4.000 245° C 260° C 270° C

2.-Factors of warming related to the fabric;

Number of layers of tissue s

Fabric weight .-'

400

300 200

100 O
-L

too o

a-ooo

3,000

[Link]

Sewing speed (stitches/min.)

3 - Heating factors related to the thread - Coefficient of friction

Subject Thread structure

Thread finish

The, TERM-SET

In the garment industry, hot melt adhesives are becoming increasingly important.
both in their roles as molders and settlers of the genre and in the joining of pieces of
same. The Thermofixing; The interlinings

The emergence of interlinings marked a significant advancement in the garment industry, favoring a
better balance of the different parts of the garment and providing it with greater reliability and
resistance.

Interlinings arise from the need to highlight certain shapes, to give volume to the
either endow the genre with certain characteristics that it lacks. That is to say, a
Well-applied interlining can enhance an almost nonexistent bust or give volume to the fabric.
necessary places. Originally, starching of the garment was used, but it was obtained as a result
a dry and rough touch on the garment. The first solution was to starch only the lower part, with
what eliminated the discomfort in touch. Later, fabrics were developed with horsehair or hair of
camel, which constituted an armor of rough fabric with great elasticity and was inserted between the lining
and the facial tissue, whether sewn or glued

In the 1960s, thermal adhesive appeared, which has the drawback of color changes that
produces in fabrics of certain shades at specific temperatures. For example, navy blue
changes to red when subjected to a temperature above 150° C

Definition of thermoadhesive interfacing

It is a piece of textile material that can adhere to another material (fabric or skin) by the action of heat and
pressure. To achieve this, the interlinings are coated with a certain amount of adhesive in the form of
uniformly distributed throughout the entire length of the fabric piece. The fusible interlinings are
flat textile structures on which a mass has been applied using different procedures
thermoplastic adhesive (resin) normally distributed in particles The purposes of the interlinings
thermoadhesives contribute to the fall of the garment, maintaining its shape and
provide stiffness to the fabrics, and on the other hand, rationalize the sewing work (savings and
simplification of the manufacturing process

The technology of thermofixing of thermoadhesive interlinings is based on the specific combination of

the following factors; * The fusion method

The team of thermofvjado

The components of thermofixation

The fusion method is given by the relative position between the base fabric and the interlining.

Figure 4.1

Regarding the heating equipment, there are two basic types: those that have

plate------thermosetting presses—(figure 4.2) carrying out the process in shape

discontinuous, and those that have conveyor system------heat-setting machines----

(figure 4.3 Carrying out the process continuously.

Regardless of the method and the type of equipment used, the heat-setting process is controlled.
for four components

1. ], the temperature: enough heat must be applied to reach the temperature at which it
soften and flow the resin.

2. Pressure: sufficient pressure must be applied so that the softened resin is forced to penetrate.
on the base fabric.

3. Time: sufficient time must be allowed for the resin to reach its own point of
softening and an appropriate flow.

4. Cooling: sufficient cooling must occur to solidify and stabilize the new
structure.

In figure 4.4, the different ways of resin penetration in different forms are observed.
fixed-term

TYPES OF ADHESIVES

The fundamental adhesives are:

Polyethylene (low and high density)

Polyamide

Polyvinyl chloride (P.V.C.)

Cellulose acetate

Polyester

In the following graph, different resins are analyzed based on the equipment, of the bonding after the
washing and dry cleaning and its cost.

Eouioo termofi

ado

Type Resin Steam Press Plate Press Continue Cleaning Wash/ Cost

Low density polyethylene R MB B B R under

Medium/high density polyethylene M MB B MB MB Half

Polyamides B MB MB R MB high

Polyvinyl chloride (P.V.C.) M MB MB B MB medium

Cellulose acetate R MB MB R B medium

Poli is teres insufficient data medium

Classification keys

Very good

Good

Regular

Bad

It is very important to remember that certain classes of genres may be seen

affected, if the correct thermo-adhesive for the fabric of the garment is not chosen. Not

recommend the thermo-adhesive for outdoor fabrics that can be transparent

interlining or the resin.

We will not thermofix the fluffy, curly or brushed fabrics, nor the textiles.

iridescent because they change color when reacting with the adhesive

Metal fibers repel the thermosetting resin.

Certain fabrics cannot withstand excessive heat and change color, for example blue.

marine turns red if the temperature rises to 150°C

COATING PROCEDURES

To coat flat textile structures, there are a series of procedures that apply the product.
adhesive generally in the form of dots on the interfacing. These procedures are; by
etching and with paste points ETCHING PROCEDURE

In this process, the interfacing is heated by passing around heated steel cylinders, which
they are compressed against a stamping roller, which is fed with powder through a scraper from a
the hopper that is located on top. This thermoplastic powder is pressed against the interfacing, so that
it adheres to the surface of the material. This type of coating generates slightly
rigid POINT PASTA COATING ^

The point pasta coating is a rotary stamping procedure, so that the

Water-based adhesive dispersion is pumped through a hollow squeegee into the interior of the insole.
perforated rotary screen. Drying (150-170°) with hot air and infrared rays is the method that provides
the best results in the drying of aqueous coating masses

THERMO-FIXING EQUIPMENT

The thermo-setting itself is achieved through a simple mechanical process, but its results
they differ, largely, according to the different types and capacities of the heat-setting units.
Basically, the heat-setting equipment can be divided into two categories:

1.- Those units where the fusion is done using a flat plate in a static situation (presses
the termofixer)

2.- Those units where the fusion takes place in a continuous conveyor system, following a
continuous thermal setting process (thermal setting machines) THERMAL SETTING PRESSES

Within this category we have different modes of action. Presses where the ...
sequential thermofixing operations: - Scissors type flat press - Flat press
single tray In figure 4.9, these two types of press are shown

IMAGES

The quality of the processes is measured by the degree to which they achieve the satisfaction of their
clients.
Historical Evolution of the Concept of Quality

Throughout history, the term calida has undergone numerous changes that should be reflected in
how much its historical evolution. To do this, we will describe each of the stages of the concept that was held.
of quality and what the objects to pursue were. ^

STAGE

Artesa reason

Revolution

Industrial

World War II

Post-war (Rest of the World)

Quality Control

Quality Assurance

Total Quality

CONCEPT

To do the things good

regardless of the cost or effort required for it.

Doing many things regardless of their quality

Production with Quality)_________

Ensure the effectiveness of the weaponry regardless of cost, with the greatest and fastest production.
(Effectiveness +

Deadline = Quality.

Produce, the more the better

Production inspection techniques to prevent the exit of defective goods.

Systems and Procedures of the organization to prevent the production of defective goods.

Theory of business management focused on the continuous satisfaction of expectations of the

Client _____

flA

*Customer Satisfaction *Satisfy the craftsman for a job well done *Create a

Satisfy a demand for goods. *Obtain benefits

great
Ensure the availability of effective weaponry in the right quantity and at the precise moment.
__________________

Satisfy the high demand for goods caused by the

war

Satisfy the technical needs of the product.

Satisfy the customer

Prevent errors

Reduce costs

Being with someone ___ _____

Satisfy both external and internal customers. *Be highly competitive Continuous Improvement

Evolution helps us understand where the need to offer higher quality comes from.
of the product or service provided to the customer and, ultimately, to society, and how little by
little by little the whole organization has become involved in the consequence of this end. Currently, the
Quality is a key factor that most organizations depend on, not only to
to maintain its position in a market not only to ensure its survival.

The quality of processes is measured by the degree to which they meet the satisfaction of their
clients.

Historical Evolution of the Concept of Quality

Throughout history, the term calida has undergone numerous changes that should be reflected in
how much its historical evolution. To do this, we will describe each of the stages of the concept that was held.
of quality and what were the objects to pursue. ^

STAGE

Artisanal

Industrial Revolution

World War II

Post-war (Rest of the World)

Quality Control

Quality Assurance

Total Quality

___ CONCEPT
To do the things

independently of

good

cost or

necessary effort for that.

Doing many things regardless

that are of quality (Production is identified with Quality)

Ensure the effectiveness of the weaponry regardless of the cost, with the greatest and fastest production.
Effectiveness +

Deadline = Quality.

Produce, the more the better

Techniques of inspection of Production to prevent the exit of

defective goods.

Procedures to prevent it from being

Systems and

organization

produce defective goods.

Theory of business management focused on the continuous satisfaction of expectations of

Client____ _

NÍJDAtl

*Satisfy the craftsman, for their work well done *Create a unique product
Satisfy a high demand for goods. *Get benefits

Guarantee the

availability of effective weaponry in the right quantity and at the right time

I need.

Meet the great demand

of goods caused by the

war.

Meet the needs

product techniques.

^Satisfacer al cliente ^Prevenir errores '•"Reducir costes *Ser competitivo

Satisfy both external and internal customers. *Be highly competitive Continuous Improvement

This evolution helps us understand where the need to offer higher quality comes from.
of the product or service that is provided to the customer and, ultimately, to society, and how little by
little by little the entire organization has been involved in the consequence of this end. Currently the
quality is a key factor on which most organizations depend, not only for
to maintain its position in a market but to ensure its survival.
THE MACHINE

CONCEPT. -Set of combined devices to receive a certain form of energy,

transform it and restore it in another more suitable one, or to produce an effect

determined.

Device to take advantage of, direct, or regulate the action of a force.

Any device or instrument that is used to perform a certain job, replacing in

all speak of it, the hand of man.

THE SEWING MACHINE

BRIEF HISTORY .- In the 19th century, when the first technological changes are witnessed, the
Machine sewing replaces hand sewing. There were numerous attempts and many people
soon his collaboration, so his technical inventor cannot be named. Krembs in Germany in
In 1800, Ducan in Scotland invented a machine that made chain stitch. In 1814, the
Tirolés Madersperger managed to create a model capable of making a true seam, but it
it remained in the prototype. Fifteen years later, the French tailor Thimonnier built and patented a
wooden machine, starting up a laboratory of eighty machines to sew the uniforms
of the army, but the envy of the competitors forced him to flee to England.

The attempts multiplied more and more frequently and, finally, Isaac Mevitt Singer, in
1850, improving and combining the principles already studied by others and adding
important mechanisms invented by him, presented the first true sewing machine in which
the movement of the needle was transmitted through gears and not with cranks, as in models
previous ones. Singer, to make the purchase of the machine accessible to everyone, also devised the system of
installment payments and thus, the revolutionary invention spread all over the world.

Naturally, over the years, the models were becoming more and more refined to allow for greater
time and labor savings. The zig-zag machines, eyelet machines, embroidery machines, etc. were not enough. And
increasingly sophisticated, up to those of the new generation, the electronics with more than 350
mechanical parts have been organized by a true electronic brain, everything is automatic and the
work capabilities are infinite,

CHARACTERISTICS OF SEWING MACHINES

I-,

i
___y

Like cars, sewing machines are also of different brands, but they are similar in what they
fundamental: they all have in common the result of their work, that is, the union of two fabrics by means of
A stitch. The stitch is formed by two threads, the upper (or needle thread) and the lower (or thread
from the tap), tied in the center of the fabric. When the needle enters the fabric, the thread from the needle
make a loop that hooks the thread of the bobbin and ties it to it; when it comes out again, the needle
tighten the knot and thus you get the stitch. For the operation to be perfect, that is, to obtain
stitches of equal length straight and well-formed, it is necessary that the different mechanisms
they function perfectly. It is essential that the presser foot, the needle, and the feed dog move.
It is done correctly. Indeed, while the fabric press holds the fabric, the needle pierces it and goes to the bobbin.
To form the stitch, the pull brings the fabric to the exact position.

Regardless of the model, there are some basic parts in any sewing machine, these
his head, wooden (and metal) work and shelf. CABEXA upper part of the machine and where it
find most of the mechanism. In turn, it is divided into arm and bed, in the arm are the
next pieces, upper and lower thread guides, thread lira, tension discs, needle bar, bar of
fabric press, fabric press, and needle and fabric press fastening screws, position selector of
needle, stitch regulation screw, and zig-zag selector. WOOD WORK.- It is called to the
plate that supports the weight of the machine head, there are central and lateral drawers where it
Place several sewing needles, in industrial machines this is covered with synthetic material.
Additionally, this space is used to place the garment that is being sewn. In the lower left part goes the
coil and also several parts that help the mechanism and its functioning.

SHELF.- They are all the lower metal pieces that support the weight of the entire structure.
mechanics, here is the motor, lever to raise the press foot, pressure plate to operate
the engine and sew

CLASSIFICATION OF SEWING MACHINES BY THEIR SHAPE

The shapes of sewing machines have been designed to facilitate the various sewing tasks.
These can be classified into six categories.

PLAN - consists of a vertical arm and a horizontal arm that ends in the head of the machine, and
it can be short-arm 25 cm, long-arm 30 cm, and long-arm more than 30 cm, the base of the
the machine is flat, at table level.

MONQBLOC - machine that lacks an arm. The movement organs are short and are located
sealed in a hermetic casing. Due to their design, they can achieve high speeds, the plane
The work is situated laterally, allowing only seams at the edge of the fabrics.
COLUMN - this machine is characterized because the worktable is located at the part
superior of a column in which the drag organs are located.

CIUNDRICA is characterized because the work surface is higher than the tabletop.
The material to be worked on can rotate around its base.

The base of this machine is tubular or conical in shape, in some cases the tube is oriented.
obliquely. The material spins around the tube

DISPLACED ARM - this machine is characterized by having a suspended arm connected to the
set of the machine on its part behind, forming a U

PLACÍA

CLASSIFICATION OF SEWING MACHINES BY TYPE OF WORK

In our environment, there is a wide variety of industrial sewing machines, and they are classified into
according to the type of work they do, which implies a high degree in many of them
specialization and can be divided into:

of straight sewing

the zigzag

about serging or overlocking

to weave

to pick up buttons

the invisible stitch or embroiderer

to cover

of the chain

The types of machines previously mentioned can be divided based on working times into
two large groups:

Cyclic type machines

Non-cyclic type machines

To calculate the sewing times in cyclic type machines, for clips, buttons, buttonholes, it is necessary to
take into account the number of times the needle goes down to form the stitches of each loop,
button or buttonhole. The rise and fall time of the needle is calculated as follows.

You =

1 R.P.M.
In non-cyclic machines, stitching times depend on the length of the stitch.
Technologically, they can be calculated using the following formula:

L. C. x p. p. c.

Republic of Turkey

Where

T. C. L.C. p. p. c. R. P. M.

R. P. M.

sewing time in my.