1.
Nature of Waves
A wave is the repetitive disturbance moving through a medium.
In oceans, waves transfer energy, not water mass.
Driven by:
o Wind stress (most common).
o Geological events (earthquakes, volcanic activity).
o Astronomical forces (moon & sun → tides).
2. Wave Characteristics
Amplitude (A): half of wave height (H/2).
Steepness (S): S=H/LS = H/LS=H/L. If S>1/7S > 1/7S>1/7, wave breaks.
Phase velocity (C): speed of one crest.
Group velocity (C_g): speed of wave energy.
⚡ Key Point:
In deep water, energy travels at half the speed of crests.
In shallow water, both crest & energy move at the same speed.
3. Particle Motion
Deep water: nearly circular orbits.
Shallow water: orbits become elliptical and then nearly horizontal near seabed.
Motion decreases with depth → negligible beyond wave base = L/2.
4. Wave Formation Stages
1. Capillary waves (ripples): caused by light winds.
2. Growing sea: energy input from stronger winds.
3. Fully developed sea: balance between input and dissipation.
4. Swell: waves that travel away from generation area.
5. Wave Theories
Linear / Airy Theory:
o Small amplitude waves.
o Works well for deep water.
o Assumes sinusoidal shape.
Stokes Theory:
o Higher-order corrections for non-linear waves.
o Valid for steep, finite-amplitude waves.
Cnoidal Theory:
o Applies to shallow water and long-period waves (tides, tsunamis).
6. Wave Behavior in Shallow Water
Refraction: bending of waves due to change in speed when depth varies.
Diffraction: wave energy spreads around obstacles (breakwaters, islands).
Reflection: wave bounces back from structures or cliffs.
Shoaling: wave height increases as waves enter shallow water.
Breaking: occurs when steepness exceeds 1/7 or depth ≈1.3H≈1.3H≈1.3H.
7. Energy in Waves
Total wave energy per unit area:
E=18ρgH2E = \frac{1}{8} \rho g H^2E=81ρgH2
Power transported per crest length:
P=E⋅CgP = E \cdot C_gP=E⋅Cg
Implication: Taller waves (H) carry much more energy (proportional to H2H^2H2).
8. Ship Interaction with Waves
Waves affect:
o Seakeeping → comfort, safety, operability.
o Propulsion → resistance changes in rough seas.
o Stability → risk of roll resonance, broaching, capsizing.
Ship motion in waves (6 DoF): Surge, Sway, Heave, Roll, Pitch, Yaw.
9. Special Waves
Tsunami:
o Generated by undersea earthquakes/landslides.
o Very long wavelength (100–500 km), shallow-water waves in deep ocean.
o Speed ≈ gh\sqrt{gh}gh, can reach >700 km/h.
Tidal Waves (Tides):
o Caused by gravitational forces of moon & sun.
o Long-period, shallow-water waves with daily/semidiurnal cycles.
Seiches:
o Standing waves in enclosed basins (harbors, lakes).
10. Applications
Naval Architecture: Seakeeping tests, hull design, propeller efficiency.
Marine Operations: Safe routing, loading/unloading, mooring forces.
Renewable Energy: Wave energy converters (WEC) harvest power.
Coastal Engineering: Breakwater design, shoreline protection.