Chapter 5: Setting Columns

Most Common Mistakes:

1. Overall building footprint out of square.

2. Failure to properly grade site to level, or inadequately compact fill.
3. Neglecting to install uplift plates on embedded columns.
4. Improper column orientation.
5. Placing columns in improper locations.
6. Column rows out of alignment at grade.
7. Failure to double check column spacing before pouring concrete.
8. Outside edges of columns not at BL (Building Line).
9. Failure to stain, paint, wrap or otherwise protect glulaminated columns potentially exposed
to weathering.

Targeted time allotment for this step: move into place, attach bracing, stand in hole 15
minutes per column.

Setting columns is most clients’ largest fear (and is largely unfounded). Take a deep
breath, exhale slowly and follow this chapter’s instructions and all will be just fine.

FOR WET SET BRACKET ON PIERS EXCEPTIONS, SEE END OF THIS CHAPTER

A recent study has shown concrete in contact with pressure preservative treated
pine may encourage premature decay by brown-rot fungi. As such, we strongly recommend
isolating such columns from concrete starting at splash plank top, to 14 to 18 inches below
grade by use of a moisture impervious barrier. Hansen Pole Buildings offers an optional high
quality HDPE plastic “SHORT SLEEVE” to fit most column dimensions. Please reach out to
Materials@[Link] for exact pricing for your building.

Why might corner columns be smaller sized? Each building column carries a load
equal to ½ distance to next column on each side! This means corner columns are carrying
about ½ other column’s loads. Further, on an enclosed building, corner columns are braced
in two directions by girts and wall steel (or other sidings).

A note about endwall columns: as a general rule, building plans require endwall columns to
be long enough to extend to truss BOTTOM chord tops.

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Distribute pressure treated columns to appropriate augured holes. Columns should be placed
outside building, perpendicular to future wall they will become a part of. See Figure 5 1

Figure 5 1: Augured Holes

Use duplex nails, or similar fasteners, to attach a future wall girt as a temporary support at
“column depth below grade” across what will become column’s “interior face” when placed in
hole. See Figure 5 2

Once stood in holes, this will allow for concrete to flow into space below each column bottom
in a mono-pour.

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Figure 5 2: Column Depth Below Grade

Photos show columns suspended in holes by 2x horizontal.

Prior to placing columns in holes, remove any loose materials or debris from hole bottoms.

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Install uplift plates where noted on building plans. Uplift Plate™ can be installed with a fram-
ing hammer. Install with teeth towards column and plate short portion to column bottom end,
flush to bottom of column. Make sure teeth are completely embedded into column (see photo
below). Raised portion of uplift plate is not designed to slide a rebar piece through.

Large diameter holes may require a rebar “X” below columns (will be specified on plans).

Next, place columns in holes temporarily leaning towards building inside (away from string
lines).

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Make certain to check column layout on building plans for proper orientation. Normally
(almost always) 4-1/8” face for 3 ply glulaminated columns is towards wind.

Starting with four corners, stand columns in place. Corner column outside to outside is equal
to building dimensions. Set columns to plumb at grade.

Embedded glu-laminated columns are fabricated with one end pressure preservative
treated (usually a greenish tint) and one end untreated. While this may seem like common
sense: if your building kit includes glu-laminated columns embedded in ground – place pres-
sure preservative treated end of column in ground.

Plumb – when level is placed vertically, bubble will be centered between these two lines (see
photo below). If working alone, level can be bungee corded to column so hands are free.

Reinstall stringlines, once again moving 1-1/2 inches out from nails driven in batter board
tops (splash plank width). This is same 1-1/2” from Chapter 4. As columns are set, align by
setting column edges 1-1/2 inches inside string line.

Remember to hold each column 1-1/2” inside string lines. Use 2x6 or larger girts (or if no
walls, purlins) for temporary bracing. If brace will be over 10 feet in unsupported length, place
another board 2x4 or larger on top to form a T or an L and temporarily join them with 10d du-
plex nails or three inch wood screws every 12 inches to prevent brace buckling in weak direc-
tion. Securely anchor brace to column (using more than a single fastener). Insure brace ends
away from building are firmly affixed to immoveable stakes.

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Consider premix truck access when placing bracing. If sufficient access is available for pre-
mix truck to drive around exterior of building, orient diagonal braces towards building interior.
Otherwise, orient braces to exterior and back truck between columns to pour from inside.

Pour concrete in holes around columns prior to installing any permanent framing.

When can temporary bracing be removed from columns? While concrete is safe for foot
traffic in 24 to 48 hours, we recommend to follow this rule - 70 in seven (concrete is 70 per-
cent cured in seven days), before removing temporary column bracing.

Locate columns in holes so there is at least a four inch space between column and any hole
side.

In most cases lower hole portion only (usually about 18”) will be filled with pre-mix concrete.
This is known as a concrete bottom collar.

Determine concrete volume required:

Multiply ½ hole diameter (in feet) squared, x 3.14 x concrete collar depth (in feet) times hole
number, divided by 27. Answer will be in cubic yards.

Like math in high school? This is what formula looks like:

(½ X hole diameter)² X 3.14 x concrete collar depth X # of holes

27

While placing extra concrete in hole will not adversely affect your building, avoid
overfilling holes with concrete as excess concrete may interfere with later splash plank or
slab perimeter insulation installation. Doubly important, for animal safety (especially in eques-
trian facilities), is to have concrete column encasement end below grade level.

We want to save you time, effort and money. Often all three can be saved by
having local pre-mix concrete company deliver concrete for holes (even if a “short load” fee is
charged), as opposed to mixing on site. If considering using “Sakrete” bags keep in mind over
66 - 60# bags make a concrete yard!

Minimum specified compressive strength requirement for post hole/pier concrete is 3000 psi
(pounds per square inch). This mix will have 5-1/2 sacks of cement per yard of concrete. If
mixing on site, use one part cement to three parts sand to three parts gravel or crushed
stone.

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 It is structurally acceptable to pour footings below columns and bottom collars individu-
ally. Keep in mind, if ordering pre-mix concrete, this will result in two deliveries.

After pouring concrete collars, and once concrete has firmly set, backfill area around columns
(above collar) with compactible fill (can be native soil) clay or organic material free. Tamp
soil firmly every six inches of fill depth, or less, to achieve a minimum 2000 psf (pounds per
square foot) compaction. To compact properly, use a hand operated 4x4 eight feet in length
raising it four feet and dropping four or more times on each four inch square area. Com-
paction proof: when a 2x4 butt end will not penetrate over 1/8” under 170# of pressure. Do
not attempt to compact on or under standing water. If native soil proves inadequate, import
good compactible material.

Establishing Grade
After verifying grade with a contractor’s level or transit, shoot from building center in all direc-
tions and locate grade marks on columns. Draw grade mark on each column with a pencil,
parallel to ground.

WET SET BRACKETS ON PIERS

Auger (for round piers) or excavate (for square piers) to depth as shown on plans. Easiest
installations will involve placement of sonotubes (for round piers) or forms (for square piers).

In Climate Zones 3 and greater, 2021 International Energy Conservation Code (IECC) re-
quires slab edge insulation in conditioned buildings. In these instances it is easiest to con-
struct forms from R-10 EPS rigid insulation board. See Figure 5 3

Figure 5 3: Pier Form (Top View)

Place sonotubes or forms in previously dug holes, insuring bottom of hole is firmly compacted
and has no lose rocks or soil. Adjust so tops are level and at same height using a transit or
building level (See Appendix VIII for operating instructions) and backfill exterior. Tops should
be exactly 3-1/2” below future concrete slab top will be. Pour pre-mix concrete into each
sonotube or form troweling off top smooth and level.
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 When locating wet-set brackets for corner columns only. Place bracket so edges
of corner columns will be on Building Lines (bracket “ear” interior will be on Building Line).

Place wet-set bracket into wet concrete, with bottom of bracket “flat” 3-1/2” above top of con-
crete (exceptions - for exterior applications with pressure preservative treated columns, flush
to top of pier if no future slab). Other than at corners (see CAUTION above) outside edge of
brackets will be at Building Lines. Tap bracket lightly to eliminate any air pockets around re-
bar legs. Wet-set brackets require temporary bracing until concrete sets, to insure accurate
bracket placement and alignment. We have found this easiest to accomplish by use of a 2x4
standoff on edge long enough to rest on each side of sonotube or form. See Figure 5 4

Figure 5 4: 2x4 Standoff (Side View)

When Untreated Columns are Provided Columns placed inside of building’s exterior walls
(protected from elements) in brackets must have column bottom lower three or more inches
protected by a barrier membrane or coating.

Allow concrete to cure for seven days before attaching wood columns to wet-set bracket and
30 days for maximum design loading.

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Wood column should be flat and square on end being attached to wet-set bracket. Before at-
taching, seat column firmly against bottom of bracket pocket. Bracket inside dimensions allow
for an 1/8” total tolerance between steel bracket and wood column. When 1/8” maximum tol-
erance is not achieved, appropriately sized wood shims must be added on one or both sides
of pocket to achieve a snug fit. Shim(s) should be APA B-C Exterior plywood (or equivalent),
no more than ¼” thick, and have same dimensions as bracket vertical leg. Fasten shim to col-
umn with two beads of Builders Choice 490 construction adhesive by Liquid Nails (or equiv-
alent) and (6) 0.113”x2.375” hot-dipped galvanized nails.

For columns of greater width dimension than bracket pocket, shave sides of column towards

bracket ‘ears’ equally to achieve a snug fit. See Figure 5 5

Figure 5 5: Shaved Column

Without pre-drilling, install ¼” x 3” screws.

When drilling ½-inch thru hole in wood column, avoid wallowing out hole to get alignment. It
may be necessary to drill from both sides of metal U bracket.
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When installing ½” thru bolt, use a flat washer on hex head side of bolt and a flat washer, lock
washer and nut on other side of metal U bracket (a serrated flange nut can be substituted on
this side). Bolts should be tightened to 100 to 120 foot-pounds. See Figure 5 6

Figure 5 6: Insulating Perimeter With Concrete Piers

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