Chapter 4: Beginning Building Construction
Building Layout
Targeted time allotment for this step: with 2 people under an hour.
The building layout establishes exact reference lines and elevations. Care in layout makes
construction easier and helps keep building square.
REMINDER: Building width and length are from corner column outside to corner
column outside!
After installing all framing, finished framework will normally be 3” wider and longer than or-
dered or “call out” dimensions. Ignoring this will result in more effort during construction.
Calculating Diagonal Lengths
Example: building is 50 feet wide and 84 feet long.
Explanation: A picture helps with this problem, so we begin with a rectangular post frame
building.
Distance (drawn in red) is diagonal of our rectangle, or k. We should also note this diagonal divides
our rectangle into two congruent right triangles. We can therefore find length of our diagonal by focus
ing on one of these triangles and determining hypotenuse. This can be done with the Pythagorean The
orem, giving us:
50^2 + 84^2 = k^2
2500 +7056 = k^2
9556 = k^2
Taking square root gives us
k=97.754795 feet or 97’ 9-1/16”
See Table 4 1 below.
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DECIMAL OF A FOOT TO INCH CONVERSION
Feet Inches Feet Inches
0.9167 11 0.0781 15/16
0.8333 10 0.0729 7/8
0.75 9 0.0677 13/16
0.6667 8 0.0625 3/4
0.5833 7 0.0573 11/16
0.5 6 0.0521 5/8
0.4167 5 0.0469 9/16
0.3333 4 0.0417 1/2
0.25 3 0.0365 7/16
0.1667 2 0.0313 3/8
0.0833 1 0.0260 5/16
0.0208 1/4
0.0156 3/16
0.0104 1/8
0.0052 1/16
Table 4 1
To start, stake out a “base” line string. This will become either building front or side. If trying
to align building with an existing structure, roadway or property lines, have first wall line par-
allel to reference point. See Figure 4 1
Figure 4 1: Base String Line
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Locate and set front corner stake “A” along baseline. Drive a nail partially into stake top as a
reference point. See Figure 4 2
Figure 4 2: Placing Stakes
Hook a tape measure on nail at Stake A. Measure building length along base line from Stake
A and set corner Stake B. See Figure 4 3
Use a construction level (transit) and drive Stake B in so Stake A and B tops are level. Drive
a nail partially into Stake B top at exact building length (as measured from column outside to
column outside).
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Figure 4 3: Batter Boards
Next make endwall perpendicular to sidewall. Measure 12 feet along base line from Stake A
and set a temporary stake. Intersection point 20 feet from this temporary stake and 16’ from
Stake A is perpendicular to base line. Set a second temporary stake at this point.
See Figure 4 3
Measure outside building width along this line and set Stake D. Drive Stake D into
ground…level with Stake A and B tops. Drive a nail partially into Stake D top at exact outside
building width. (Figure 4 3)
From nail in Stake D top, measure outside building length. From nail in Stake B, measure
outside building width. At two measurement intersection, drive last corner Stake C, with top
level with previous three corner stake tops. As before, partially drive a nail into Stake C top,
at exact outside corner point. (Figure 4 3)
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Before proceeding, make certain all four corner stakes tops are level.
Then double check, in this order – baseline length (A to B), Width B C and
A D and then length C D. Adjust nails or stakes B, C, or D as needed.
Diagonals AC and BD are to be equal for a rectangular building. Adjust by shifting C and D
along rear wall line.
Do NOT move A or B.
Keep widths B-C and A-D equal. Recheck any shifted stake levels.
Drive batter board stakes 8 to 12 feet from all corners. While specific batter board materials
are not provided with building kit, girts make excellent batter boards, as long as they remain
uncut and undamaged. Batter boards provide a level reference plane for building layout.
Place to avoid interfering with excavation, pre-mix deliveries or construction and to remain
undisturbed until columns are back filled.
Level and fasten batter boards to stakes at same heights as corner stake tops.
Stretch building string lines between batter boards, barely touching nails on corner stake
tops. Partially drive nails into batter board tops to line up string lines.
Temporary and corner stakes can now be removed. Corners will be located where lines
cross.
Photo above shows corner column in hole with batter boards in place.
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Mark Column Locations
Measuring along building lines, use small temporary stakes or nails painted with fluorescent
paint to mark each column location center.
Remember to locate column center, ½ column thickness inside string lines. (Example: 5-
1/2” column, column center is 2-3/4” inside string lines.) See Figure 4 4
Figure 4 4: Offset String Lines
Figure 4 4 shows column centers as compared to “outside” building line.
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After column centers have been located, offset (move) building line strings 1-1/2” (splash
plank width), from column face outsides.
Why offset string lines? While this may sound confusing, failure to offset string lines could
result in crooked finished walls, due to columns inadvertently touching lines. We’ve seen pro-
fessional builders make this error far too often, and in this case, an ounce of prevention, is
worth a pound of cure.
Once offset, building string lines will now measure 3” greater in dimension than building width
and length (column outside to column outside).
Measure in from building string line 1-1/2 inches to set each column. Rather than having to
use a tape measure each time, a 2×4 or 2×6 scrap block (happens to be 1-1/2” in thickness)
can be placed between column and string line.
Digging Holes
Targeted time allotment for this step: assuming major rock is not encountered, using a
skid steer with an auger 10 minutes per hole to dig and clean out loose materials.
Temporarily remove string lines. If building in an area requiring inspections, call building in-
spector to schedule a hole inspection.
This is important! Get off on right foot with building inspectors. Call for all required in-
spections!
Confirm hole diameter from building plan. While usually 18-or 24-inch diameter, verify
from building plans.
Building holes may be made larger in diameter or greater in depth (provided columns are
long enough) without adversely affecting building structure. Too small hole diameter, or
holes less than depth shown on building plans, could cause a myriad of future structural is-
sues – or even a failure.
Why would smaller diameter holes be an issue? Building weight, including a “loaded to
failure” roof load, must be adequately distributed to soil beneath concrete under columns.
Hole diameters or dimensions specified on building plans include a sufficient area to resist
settling, given stated soil strength. Avoid temptation to use concrete “cookies” placed beneath
columns, as they often fail to provide enough surface area to resist settling.
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To help prevent frost “heave”, dig holes so width at top is less than width at bottom. This can
be done by “belling” out hole bottom with a shovel.
Using an auger mounted on a skid steer, bore holes to depth required on building plans.
Holes slightly larger in diameter than auger bit can be created by first digging a pilot hole then
offsetting auger slightly from hole center and boring again.
FOR WET SET BRACKETS WITH SQUARE HOLES: Holes are best dug with a mini-exca-
vator or similar. Avoid extreme over digging, especially for depth.
NOTE: High water tables or water in holes will not cause premature pressure preservative
treated column decay. Treatment is for structural in ground use, including being exposed to
ground water.
Helpful hint – an auger will remove rocks up to half auger bit diameter.
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In cases where two adjacent columns will be near each other, two holes may resemble a
short “trench”. This is acceptable.
Holes may be dug larger in diameter than what is shown on building plans, as well as oblong
or rectangular. It is acceptable to dig holes with a backhoe or mini-excavator. Dimensions
stated on plans are “minimum” requirements.
Avoid “over digging” holes! If holes are too deep, extra concrete will be needed and con
crete is expensive fill! A visible marker, placed on auger bit at required depth, is often help-
ful. If large rocks are present, dig holes with a backhoe, mini- excavator or other similar
equipment.
Extend hole depth below area frost line. If unsure about frost depth, ask local building in-
spector.
After digging, clean any loose materials from hole bottoms.
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What Happens if Rock Is Encountered?
Dig It Out – Even if this leaves a crater numerous feet across, a sonotube can be placed at
this column location, properly backfill around and place column in sonotube. This excavation
may involve some heavier equipment, like a backhoe.
Jackhammer – Unless solid granite has been hit, most rocks can be broken apart by one.
Ram Hoe – (also known as a concrete breaker) This is often most practical solution and is
an attachment for a skid steer or backhoe. This hydraulic breaker makes quick work out of a
tough job. With a smart and efficient design, it provides a workhorse with only two moving
parts. Vibration and shock are controlled by shock absorbing polymers, minimizing machine
wear and sound while improving operator comfort level. One can easily smash through even
concrete.
Concrete “cookie” placement or pouring concrete “punch pads” at hole bottoms, beneath col-
umns is unacceptable by E.O.R.. Neither will be shown on building plans. With column holes
properly backfilled with poured concrete, either is usually both structurally inadequate and a
needless expense.
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