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Professional Certificate in
Aesthetics Therapy & Practices
School of
Hospitality
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BASIC FACIAL PROCEDURE
Step by Step Process
Importance of Cleansing, Toning & Moisturising
Purpose of Skin Exfoliation
Different Types of Masks
Selection of Suitable Skin Care Products/Ingredients (Activity)
LESSON 4
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Facial Procedures
Class Discussion
Share with the class your daily skincare routine. What products do you use? When do you use them?
How are these products used?
Source: [Link] Source: [Link]
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7 BASIC STEPS TO A FACIAL
Basic Fundamental Application on Step by Step Process
to a Facial
1)Superficial or light cleansing
2)Skin analysis
3)Deeper cleansing or exfoliation
4)Facial massage
5)Mask
6)Toner
7)Moisturize
What do you think could be added to these steps for treatments done
in an aesthetic centre/salon/spa?
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Facial Procedures
Consultation Skin
Prepare Facial Analysis/
/ Record
Client Cleansing Record
Info
Toner & Facial Facial
Moisturiser Mask Massage Exfoliation
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Facial Procedures
Pre-Treatment During Treatment After treatment
Wash and clean hands Superficial or light cleansing After-care advise
Consultation Skin analysis Home skin-care regime
Record personal information Record observation Schedule next appointment
General skin analysis Deeper cleansing or exfoliation
Prepare client for treatment Facial massage
Mask
Toner
Serum
Moisturizer/Sunscreen
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Facial Procedures
Procedures Effects
1. Wash hands To get rid of germs and bacteria
Understand client’s medical history, lifestyle and habits. Systematic
2. Consultation
checking with client for any contraindication to treatment
3. Cleansing Removes makeup, surface dirt and superficial dead skin cells
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Facial Procedures
Procedures Effects
To determine skin type and the correct treatment and choice of
4. Skin Analysis
products
To input observation of skin conditions onto the consultation form
5. Record findings
and share treatment plan with client
6. Deeper
Promotes growth of new skin and gives skin a youthful glow
Cleansing/Exfoliation
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Facial Procedures
Procedures Effects
Promotes relaxation, blood circulation, lymphatic drainage and toning of
7. Massage facial muscles
8. Facial mask Improves skin condition, hydrates as well as balances oily skin
9. Toner Tightening and cooling effect on the skin
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Facial Procedures
Procedures Effects
Face serums contain a higher concentration of active ingredients (such
as hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid, and vitamin C) and help illuminate the
10. Serum look of skin and stimulate cell renewal, revealing more youthful -looking
skin
Replenishes the skin’s natural moisture, promotes skin elasticity and
11. Moisturizer
maintains skin hydration
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IMPORTANCE OF CLEANSING
Is a preliminary to all treatments which allows the client to become
accustomed to the therapist’s touch
Should be effective without irritating the skin with the most
appropriate products selected
Should cleanse the skin effectively, removing all traces of make up
and grease without causing irritation, preferably used twice a day
Should be pleasant to use and easy to remove from the skin
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IMPORTANCE OF CLEANSING
The skin is naturally slightly acidic (acid mantle) and Alkalis strip the
skin of its protective film of sebum, making it feel dry and taut
Ideally should be pH balanced – preferably use a product that
matches our acid mantle, i.e. pH of 5.5 – 5.6
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CLEANSING PRODUCTS
The main types of superficial cleansers available are lotions, milks and creams
CLEANSING LOTIONS oil in water solutions that feel light, sharp and refreshing on
the skin and are recommended for oily and congested skin
CLEANSING MILKS oil based emulsions with high water content, formulated for all
skin types, but are ideal for young/normal, oily or combination skin types
CLEANSING CREAMS mainly water in oil emulsions, but with a smaller water
content than the milks, so it is more oily and therefore more suitable for dry, mature or
dehydrated skin conditions
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CLEANSING PRODUCTS
CLEANSING FOAMS for all skin types and usually very light in texture. Their
foam or mousse consistency can be washed off with water, leaving the skin feeling
refreshed.
CLEANSING GELS alcohol free gels that lather well and have a strong
degreasing action to remove excess oils without causing moisture loss. Alternative
for clients who likes to cleanse face with soap and water
EYE & LIP MAKE UP REMOVER dissolves quickly upon contact with skin, made
mostly of oily substances to effectively remove make up with ease. Ideal for
delicate areas especially the eye area which requires minimum amount of
manipulation and good for lips as well
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TONING PRODUCTS
Toning the skin is the second stage in most cleansing routines, as
well as ensuring complete removal of cleansing preparations and is
also used for the following reasons
✓ Refine the skin
✓ Causes pores to constrict, thereby reducing flow of sebum
✓ Cool and refresh the skin
✓ Close the pores – protects skin from bacteria invasion
✓ After a face mask, to remove all traces of the face mask
✓ Before make up to refresh the skin
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TONING PRODUCTS
SKIN FRESHENERS the mildest of the toning products, they usually contain
little or no alcohol. Mainly consists of purified water with floral extract such as
rose water or chamomile. Recommended for dry, delicate, sensitive and
mature skin
SKIN TONICS are slightly stronger than the skin fresheners, may contain an
astringent agent such as witch hazel. Recommended for normal and
combination skins
ASTRINGENTS are the strongest of all the toners, and have a high
proportion of alcohol. They may contain antiseptic ingredients such as
hexachlorophene which is particularly beneficial to promote healing for a
blemished skin. Recommended for oily, blemished and acne skins with no
sensitivity
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MOISTURIZING PRODUCTS
➢ Helps maintain natural oil and moisture balance by locking moisture into
the skin tissues
➢ Provides protection and hydration to the skin
➢ Temporarily forms the ‘acid mantle’ as a barrier
➢ Basic formulation is oil and water to make an emulsion – water content
helps to return lost moisture and oil content prevents moisture loss from
skin’s surface
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MOISTURIZING PRODUCTS
➢ May contain UV filters, which protect skin against age accelerating
sunlight
➢ Softens the skin and relieves tautness and sensitivity
➢ Humectant ingredient such as Glycerine or Sorbitol is included to
provide hydration
➢ Purpose of humectant – attracts moisture from the surrounding air and
stops moisturiser from drying out hence less oil is used in such
formulation
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MOISTURIZING PRODUCTS
WORD OF CAUTION WITH HUMECTANT PRODUCTS IN COLD PLACES
❖ When you are in a cold country when the weather is very cold or dry or
in centrally heated homes when the air becomes very dry, there is no
moisture in the air for the humectant to attract
❖ Hence it will then draw water from the skin to it’s surface causing
evaporation, eventually resulting in subsequent dehydration of the skin
❖ Skin will usually feel itchy, sensitive, dry, scaly, peeling……..
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WHAT TYPE OF MOISTURISER SHOULD I USE
IN COLD COUNTRIES
❖ Emollient based products which has a higher content of
oil than water
❖ Do check that the product used does not contain any
humectant active ingredient
❖ Have more frequent application of creams to ensure
continual protection of skin from dehydration
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20 MINUTES
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WHAT IS EXFOLIATION?
• The natural physical process of losing dead
skin cells from the upper most layer of the
epidermis.
• It is a method of treatment which is usually
practiced in facial routine to accelerate the
removal of dead skin cells which is usually
carried out after the skin has been cleansed
and before further facial treatments.
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DIFFERENT TERMS FOR EXFOLIATION
• Desquamation
• Peeling
• Scrubbing
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BENEFITS OF EXFOLIATION
➢ Brighten the complexion and
refine the skin texture
➢ Facilitates
the extraction of
impurities e.g. blackheads
➢ A faster
cell turnover rate brings
about cell renewal/regeneration
➢ Helps product absorption
帮助产品吸收
[Link]
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BENEFITS OF EXFOLIATION
➢ Improve skin texture
➢ Stimulate blood circulation
➢ Promotes desquamation
[Link]
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METHODS OF SKIN EXFOLIATION
❑AHA
Known as Alpha Hydroxy Acids found in citrus fruits, sugar and milk that help to
loosen dead skin cells. Concentrations of less than 10% fruit acids are commonly
used. Some clients may feel a mild tingling or itching sensation during treatment
and may have a mild erythema for a short period of time
❑EXFOLIATION CREAMS / PREPARATIONS
Known commonly as facial scrubs with fine exfoliating particles such as oatmeal,
crushed nut kernels and pumice to soften and remove the dead skin cells and any
impurities. They combine a detergent cleansing action
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METHODS OF SKIN EXFOLIATION
❑ENZYME PEEL
Involves the use of keratolytic enzymes which help to speed up the
breakdown of keratin and one such enzyme often used is papain which
is derived from the juice of the papaya. Usually comes in powdered form
which is mixed with warm water and left on skin for a few minutes and
must be kept moist
❑GOMMAGE PEELComes in the form of a cream which will take about
7 – 10 minutes to dry, forming a hard crust. The crust is then massaged
or ‘rolled’ off the skin
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METHODS OF SKIN EXFOLIATION
❑FACIAL STEAMER
Mechanical method of skin exfoliation involving the heat
therapy which has general deep cleansing benefits.
Opens the pores, eliminate wastes through production of
sweat, increases circulation and softens the oily deposits
in follicles making it easier for the removal of blackheads
[Link]
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[Link]
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INTRODUCTION TO FACIAL MASKS
❖The application of face masks reinforces the beneficial
effects of the facial routine
❖A mask is a preparation, which contains various
ingredients to which active substances are added to form a
paste or gel
❖They have different actions depending on their
formulations
❖They can be applied with a brush or fingers to clean skin at
the end of a facial treatment or as maintenance between
salon visits
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INTRODUCTION TO FACIAL MASKS
❖They are applied to the face and neck, avoiding the delicate
eye area, and should be removed with a warm compress,
making sure that no powdery traces of product are left on the
skin
❖The choice of mask depends on an accurate skin analysis
and a sound knowledge of the effects of the ingredients used
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TYPES TO FACE MASKS
❑SETTING MASKS
• These are useful to the therapist because of their range of
actions and low cost
• Use ingredients that set hard after a specified length of time
and include clay, astringent and peeling masks
• They have a deep cleansing action which absorbs excess
sebum and sweat and aids desquamation
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TYPES TO FACE MASKS
❑NON SETTING MASKS
• Never set, therefore do not have such strong tightening effect on
the skin.
• Gels achieve a tightening effect without setting and include
biological masks, which are based on fruit, plant, herbal and
vegetable extracts.
• Natural masks are made from eggs, fruit, honey and oatmeal
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TYPES TO FACE MASKS
❑SPECIALIZED MASKS
• Include gel, wax, thermal and oil mask
• Specialised masks commonly used in beauty therapy, which use heat to
enhance their actions, are paraffin wax masks and warm oil masks
❑COMMERCIAL MASKS 商业面膜
• Most companies produce a variety of ready-made masks using different
ingredients for a specific purpose
• Ingredients include old favourites such as clays, plants and herbs, and
also essential oils, marine-based products and anti-ageing ingredients
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Powder Ingredients & Effects
• Fuller’s Earth fast, strong action on blood circulation, excellent
desquamation and deep cleansing; ideal for oily, congested skin.
Greenish powder
• Kaolin deep cleanses, removes impurities, stimulates circulation, helps
desquamation and improves skin function; ideal for generic deep
cleansing benefits. Dirty white powder
• Magnesium Carbonate mildly astringent, refines skin with open pores,
stimulates to tighten and firm skin; ideal to add some for its binding
properties White powder
• Calamine soothes inflamed skin and reduce vascularity; suitable for
sensitive skin. Fine pink powder
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Active Ingredients & Effects
• Rose Water mild toning effect, suitable for all skin types
• Witch Hazel an astringent, drying and stimulating effects,
suitable for oily skin
• Glycerine soothing and moisturizing, for dry and dehydrated
skin, a humectant which helps keep mask soft
• Almond Oil slightly stimulating and nourishing, helps condition
dry skin
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GROUP ACTIVITY
➢ Each group to present a skin analysis and complete the form to show the
skin conditions on the chart
➢ Present and share your findings to provide overall conclusion of skin type
and treatment objective
➢ Explain and justify the type of cleanser, exfoliation, clay mask recipe, toner
and moisturizer recommended for your treatment plan
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References
• Foulston J., Major F., Wynne M. (2013). The Art and Science of Beauty
Therapy, United Kingdom: EMS Publishing.
• Gerson J. (2004). Milady’s Standard Fundamentals for Estheticians, United
Kingdom: Cengage Learning.
• Cressy, S. (2004). Beauty Therapy Fact File, United Kingdom: Heinemann.
• Nordmann, L. (2010). Beauty Therapy – The Foundations, USA: Cengage
Learning
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