SEAM

DEFINITION OF SEAM:
A seam is a line of stitching that joins two or more pieces of fabric, leather, or other
materials. It can also refer to the line formed by the abutting edges of two pieces. A seam in
a garment function to join two pieces of fabric together, creating the structure of the
garment by holding edges securely, allowing for shaping through darts and pleats, finishing
raw edges to prevent fraying, and contributing to the overall fit and appearance of the
clothing item; essentially, seams are the essential element that constructs a garment by
connecting different fabric pieces.

Seam Types or Classes:

The following are the 8 classes of seam:

• Seam Class-1: Super Imposed Seam

• Seam Class-2: Lapped Seam

• Seam Class-3: Bound Seam

• Seam Class-4: Flat Seam

• Seam Class-5: Decorative Seam

• Seam Class-6: Edge Neatening

• Seam Class-7: Applied Seam

• Seam Class-8: Enclosed Seam

Super Imposed Seam:

• This type of seam is formed by correctly placing the ends of the fabric on the other ends of
the fabric and sewn.

• Generally the seam ends are in the same direction.

• Different types of stitch are used to form this type of seam.

• Seam strength may be changed.

• This seam can be used for joining the fabric and neatening the edge.

Seam Class-2

Lapped Seam:
• Simplest seam is formed by lapping of two pieces of fabric.

• Two sewn ends of the fabric are in opposite direction and overlapping one ends on other.

• Uses of this seam is very less because the threads draw off from the fabric edge and create
problem.

• The seam thread may be damaged due to frictional resistance.

• Seam strength is higher.

• Possibility of seam slippage is very less.

• Twin needle sewn machine is used to prepare seam.

Seam Class-3

Bound Seam:
• Two fabrics are required.

• Here one edge of the fabric is bounded by the other fabric.

• The binder fabric may be of different colors.

• Widely used.

• Can be applied for both functional and decorative purposes.

• Folder must be required to produce bound seam.

• Mostly used for knit fabric than woven fabric.

Flat Seam:
• Two or more fabric ends are joined without overlapping.

• Seam can be made with the gap of the ends of the fabric for decorative purposes.

• Generally twin needle sewing m/c is used to produce this type of seam where continuous
binding can be made by covering thread between needle threads

• Seam thickness is comparatively less.

• Zigzag stitch causes sufficient stretch for knit fabrics.

• Neat join forms.

• Before sewing, Edge should be cleaned.

Seam Class-5

Decorative Seam:
• This type of seam is made by making one or more adjacent stitch lines in one or more layer
of fabric.

• Multi-needle sewing machine is used.

• This type of seam is called decorative stitching.

• This seam is produced and used to increase the beauty or decorative value of fabrics.
Seam Class-6

Edge Neatening:
• This type seam is used to bind the edge of fabric, so that thread cannot be drawn off.

• Various stitches are used in this type of seam.

• It can be made by over lock machine.

• If folder is used, the seam can be made easily.

Applied Seam:
• Similar-to lapped seam, but the joined component is extended limited on both sides from
sewn line.

• This is used for joining of different parts of garments with additional or extra materials
such as lace, elastic braid, elastic etc.

• Multi needle sewing machine and folder is used to produce this seam. It will be easier this
function is involved.

Seam Class-8

Enclosed Seam:
• Mainly one piece of fabric is used.

• The edges of fabric are sewn by folding in various ways.

• Very used of folder to make the seam.

• Seam is made in one time completed by twin needle machine and folder.
 FUNCTIONS

A seam in a garment functions to join two pieces of fabric together, creating the structure of
the garment by holding edges securely, allowing for shaping through darts and pleats,
finishing raw edges to prevent fraying, and contributing to the overall fit and appearance of
the clothing item; essentially, seams are the essential element that constructs a garment by
connecting different fabric pieces.

Key functions of a seam:

The primary function is to stitch together different fabric sections to form the garment's
shape.

• Structural support:

Seams provide strength and stability to the garment, preventing tearing at critical points.

• Shaping the garment:

By using different seam types and placements, designers can create curves, darts, and other
features to fit the body contours.

• Edge finishing:

Seams can be used to neatly finish raw edges of fabric, preventing fraying and maintaining a
clean look.

• Aesthetic appeal:

Depending on the seam type, they can add decorative elements or subtle design details to a
garment.

What Type of Seam to use

• Some seams, such as French seams, are better for lighter weight fabrics.

• Bulkier enclosed seams, like the flat felled seam, are better for tougher fabrics like denim.

• Be sure to pick the right stitch length as well—the longer a stitch, the more likely the
material is to pucker, which stitches that are too short can create undesired plaits.
 Seam Finishing Techniques
In open seams, where the seam allowance is exposed, the raw edges need to be finished to
prevent fraying.

Ways to finish open seams are:

• 1. Pinking shears

Pinking shears are serrated scissors that create a zigzag edge. Trimming a seam allowance
with pinking shears can prevent fraying.

• 2. Bias tape

Bias tape is a narrow strip of fabric that can be folded over an exposed seam to secure and
hide the edges. This is often used for unlined garments and bags, and for the edge of quilts.
• 3. Serger

A serger is a special type of sewing machine that cuts the raw edges of the seam and creates
overlocked stitches around the edge as it is sewn. This is a very professional way to finish a
seam, and these seams are found on most store-bought clothing.

• 4. Zigzag stitch

Zigzag stitching along the raw edge of the seam will secure the edges and prevent fraying.