29er Owner’s stern.

With one person holding the tip

of the mast so that it is about a foot off
chase system supplied with the boat to
the front hole of the bow plate.
Rigging Manual the transom, (or resting it on a horse),
attach the butt to the hole in the step.
Even up the trapeze rings and
attach the other end with the jamming
The mast step is reversible, so block to the rings. With out starting to
by Chad Turner tension, the forestay will be about 2-3”
Rigging the 29er is quite simple and away from the bowplate. See previous
can be completed in minutes. photo. Tension the rig and attach the
Beginning with the mast, you
should carefully make sure that all
halyards are untangled and ready to
use. Inspect the mast for any fittings that
may have loosened during delivery.
These fittings include the spreader’s tips
and base, trapeze mountings and
mainsail track. If you do not trust the that if one end gets worn from use, it
quick pins supplied with the boat re- can be rotated instead of replaced.
place them with proportionally sized Remove the bottom pin from each
cotter pins and ring dings. Quick pins chain plate, leaving the shrouds in
are great for the jib track stops, but bad place, and attach the end of the chain
for keeping the mast up if you do not plate to the saddles mounted on the
make sure that they are fully inserted boat. The spinnaker sheet ratchet forestay to the CENTRE hole in the
into the chainplates. Remember to blocks are attached to the same bowplate. Remove boom vang. If set
saddles. With the mast butt and correctly, the rig tension should meas-
ure around 28 on a Loos gauge.
Attach the trapeze rings to the
shockchord loops on the gunwale just
behind the chainplates. Pass the loop
through the ring above the bar then
pull it down over the bottom of the ring.
Slide up to the top of the ring.

connect the forestay to the mast by first

passing it underneath the small shock
cord attached to the shrouds near the jib
halyard sheave. The shock cord
prevents the spinnaker halyard from shrouds connected, make sure the
getting caught in this area. The forestay trapeze wires are in an unobstructed
should be taken off the mast while position where they can help pull the
travelling as it is sticks out beyond the mast to its upright position. Use both
mast step and has been known to fall trapeze wires to pull the mast upright
out of the key slot. Undo the spinnaker as the person holding the tip walks it
halyard and make sure there are up beside the boat until out of reach.
stopper knots in both ends! Now! With mast upright, attach the
To step, place the mast horizon- becket block of the boom vang pur-
tally on the boat with the bottom end
near the step and the top towards the
The boom attaches at the gooseneck
with a quick pin. The boom vang
attaches similarly to a second goose-

the end of the boom, just behind the knot tied to the small saddle (deck
hanging block. Pass the line up strap). The final part passes through
through the hole, out the back and put the block on the traveler and is tied off
a figure eight in the end. (Note in the on the clew board (shown here being
picture the arrangement of the clew held by hand in the photo). The rules
loop and the outhaul hook block). The allow a shackle or quick release
sheet then goes (photo above right) device for attachment to the clew.
through the bridle traveler block, back Continuous sheets are nice
up to the rear mainsheet hangar block because they enable you to always
on the boom, forward THROUGH THE have a grasp of both sheets. If the
RED VECTRA LINE
neck slightly below the beginning of LOOP and then
the mainsail track, The lower end of down through the
the strut is attached to a “shoe” which mainsheet ratchet
should rest on the top of the boom and block. Make sure

the ratchet block crew does not have the sheet in hand,
clicks when you it is easily found by picking it up as it
sheet in. Ronstan falls from the skipper’s hand.
ratchet blocks are
pressure sensitive, Spinnaker setup
so you might have The spinnaker setup is a little more
to put a little back involved, but hopefully this will give
pressure on the you some tricks to make it easier.
block, to activate it. Note: Some boats may be shipped
without the spinnaker sock installed to
be free to slide. (Spray a little McLube If the main and jib sheet are continu- avoid mildew - particularly in winter. If
on the felt under the shoe). The picture ous, the jib sheet will be either spliced your sock is not installed, lay it out in
above shows the complete setup of the into the end of the main or tied to it. the cockpit under the port side of the
vang without the mainsail hoisted. The The jib sheet would then continue thwart. Remove the small screws and
purchases on the boom are already through the jib sheet swivel cleat, washers in the aluminum throat and
rigged when shipped. Tie a loop in the forward under the partner to a bullet attach the sock to the Velcro tape on
end of line. The deck led part of the block mounted on the throat to which the throat. Line up the pre-drilled holes
vang control attaches to this loop with the spinnaker sock is attached. From in the sock and reinstall the screws.
the hook block. there it comes back to a block on the Tie the back end of the sock to the
The mainsheet and jib sheet can end of the line which actually attaches deck strap holding the stand-up block
be rigged as separate lines or tied to the jib clew, the “final part”, then immediately behind it using the sup-
together. If separate, the mainsheet forward to the opposite side of the plied Vectran line.
would begin internally in the hole at throat where it ends with a figure eight
 and retrieval line are all
led to one side of the
forestay and that the
halyard does not do a
wrap around the forestay.
Port side (for a starboard
tack set) would be the
preferred side for racing.
Pull the spinnaker
halyard, now retrieval
The first step is to lead the spinnaker line, out of the throat and
halyard from where it exits the bottom pass it UNDER and up
of the mast straight down through an the OUTSIDE of the
eye in the partner where it then passes spinnaker then through
forward through the cheek block the lower grommet. Now
mounted directly below on the side of lead the retrieval line up
the mast support. See below. It then the INSIDE of the
goes towards the bow, UNDER both spinnaker through the
upper grommet, and tie
a figure eight knot. You
don’t want this knot to
pull through the grom-
met, so make sure your
knot is big or use a light
stopper ball.
The spinnaker sheet
cockpit, passing under everything is continuous, with both ends attached
including the partner, through a small to the clew of the spinnaker. Lead one
eye leading to the spinnaker halyard end through the port ratchet block,
cleat and through the cleat. It goes then through the grommet in theclew of
straight back through a stand-up block the spinnaker where the red and
and then over to the port side of the white tapes meet. The other end goes
boat where it passes forward through behind the mast, through the starboard
the line inside the spin pole and the another stand-up block. After passing ratchet block, around the forestay,
pole extension line. See photo below. through this block, this same halyard above and inside the retrieval line,
From there, it continues forward and turns into the retrieval line for the and also through the clew grommet.
passes through the larger of the two spinnaker! Feed the retrieval line TIP: Pass the port sheet through the
clew grommet from starboard to port,
(which is the opposite of what you
would normally do!) and do the star-
board sheet from port to starboard
before tying figure eight knots. It
doesn’t look right but it will stop the
clew hanging up on the forestay during
a gybe! In the end, the sheets should
be above everything in the cockpit so
that you have full use of them down-
wind from the trapeze.
through the aft end on the spinnaker Take the time to examine the
sock and out under the throat. system used to extend and retract the
At this point, it’s a good idea to pole. The act of extending the pole is
tie the halyard onto the head of the brought about by the spinnaker hal-
in-line blocks that are fixed together. spinnaker where the green and red yard pulling the two-in-line block aft
(The line passing through the smaller tapes intersect. Attach the tack line, which then pulls the large end of the
block is attached to the pole and coming out of the end of the pole, to pole forward until the knot attaching
actually launches it during hoisting). the end of the spinnaker where the the extender line to the deck strap on
See photo at top of next column. green and white tapes meet. Check the pole hits the block as shown in the
After that, it comes back towards to to make sure the halyard, tack line, photo above. Notice that, at the other
 aft hole, behind the forestay pin. There is a key in a small pocket at the
Attach the halyard to the head of the tack of the mainsail. Tension the
jib being sure to screw down the battens with this key (counter clock-
fastener all the way. This is used wise) until they are just starting to
instead of a shackle as it is less likely stretch the pocket but not so much so
to snag the spinnaker. Raise, and hook that the sail is being heavily curved.
To raise the mainsail, attach the
main halyard to the top of the mainsail,
make sure that the halyard is in line
with the track, clear of any tangles,
and hoist. When the sail reaches the
top of the mast, hook the halyard’s

end of the extension line, there is a

knot on either side of the deck strap.
When the pole is fully extended, photo
above, the extension line is fully
tensioned and the position of the knot
on the line may need to be adjusted so
that the rope over the pole is slightly
slack and can not jam the pole end
tight. If this happens, it may stop the
pole from going out all the way. Once
retraction starts there is no pressure
on the extension line and the second wire loop on to the teeth on the rack
knot moves up against the deck strap mounted on the side of the mast.
providing enough slack so that the Typically you will be on the first or
the wire loop to the adjustable rope
pole can swing off centre as it goes second hook. Loop the clew tie-down
purchase system. Don’t over tension
down the starboard side of the cockpit. over the end of the boom and attach
the jib halyard in light wind. If the
You will also find that the line the outhaul hook. (See earlier picture
leading edge of the jib looks stretched
coming out the end of the pole and on p.2) Set the vang ram on the boom,
in light wind, it’s too tight. Increase
attached to the spinnaker tack has a and tuck all the halyard ends neatly
tension as the wind builds.
knot in the line inside the pole. It is inside the mainsail pocket.
Before raising the mainsail it is
positioned so that, as the tack is
imperative that you check the ten-
withdrawn into the sock, the knot will
sion on the battens. They are
pull the pole back to the bow fitting.
shipped un-tensioned and, if the sail
is used this way, the battens are
Rigging the sails
guaranteed to come out the front
end of the batten pocket and you
will have a repair on your hands that
is not covered by warranty.

At this point you can attach the

downhaul (Cunningham) hooks to the
bottom of each side of the mainsail
making sure that there are no twists in
the purchase to allow for unencum-
The jib clips directly onto the bered adjustment. Also attach the vang
forestay, and the D ring in the tack is adjustment hook to a bowline tied in
secured by a clevis pin and ring in the the end of the vang shoe control line
 stand-up block. If rigged correctly, the trailering. The constant vibration of
shock cord should tug any excess objects placed in the cockpit can easily
halyard back toward the transom damage your hull. You may remove the
instead of allowing it to bunch up by spinnaker pole for trailering, although it’s
your feet. Downwind, the long shock not necessary. Wrap a piece of padding
cord will stretch enough to allow the around it and tie it up to the partner.
retrieval line to go out, but also tug on When the trailer bounces, so does the
the excess halyard enough to keep it spinnaker pole. Over time, constant
organized during manoeuvres. bouncing could seriously damage the
Friction is a killer! McLube, is a rear portion of the pole if its not suffi-
great idea for most friction-prone ciently secured.
areas and a can is supplied with the
boat as a courtesy from McLube. It’s Sail Care
not a lubricant for bearings, it just The sails are very durable if treated
makes things slippery with out attract- correctly. Don’t luff any sail more than
ing much dirt. Use plenty of it on your needed. Over time, luffing will create
exiting from the bottom of the boom spinnaker pole, jib track and, particu- small creases in the material that can
near the gooseneck. Zip up the main- larly, the entrance to the spinnaker lead to rips. This mostly applies to pre-
sail sleeve. sock. Spray down into the sock while start manoeuvres when luffing into the
Screw in the bow and stern drain you’re at it. It will even prevent your wind for extended lengths of time is
plugs! Now! Note that the bow plug is wet tell-tales from sticking to the sails. common. Roll the sails for storage and
provided solely to allow air to pass Tape anything and everything try to minimize creasing and folds.
through the boat when stored to avoid that looks like it could damage your 49er world champion Chris
collecting condensation in the hull. spinnaker or potentially come un- Nicholson explains 49er sail care this
done. This includes fittings or way and it applies equally to the 29er
Rigging Tips fastenings at deck level that could “The design and construction of the
To restrict the spinnaker halyard from snag the spinnaker if you were retriev- sails give excellent performance
re-cleating during a spinnaker take ing it during a capsize (most likely time through a wide wind range. The 49er
down, tie a short piece of shock cord to damage the spinnaker). The fore- offers thrills and, when not handled
from the jib sheet cleat mount, under stay and jib tack rings should be correctly, spills. It is important for all
taped, along with the fasteners of the crews to respect that lightweight
aluminum throat. Tape all rings, equipment is the key to performance
including the ones holding the mast and sails are no exception”.
up. Heat shrink tubing has been Avoid landing on the mainsail or
placed over the Nicopresses on the jib in a capsize. In a capsize the sails
trap wires. Check this area as well. can not be expected to withstand the
load of crews free falling from the
Boat Care gunwale height and using the sails to
It is best to store the 29er on a form break their fall. If unavoidable, spread
fitted trailer or yard dolly. Form fitted the load on impact by landing on the
storage devices allow for the weight of whole length of your body, either face
the hull to be spread out over a down or on your back, by somersault-
greater area, decreasing hull stress ing. Feet, head or arms first is most
from concentrated loads. Do not leave likely to cause damage to the sail. The
the spinnaker halyard and onto the your boat on grass for extended best escape is aft diving beyond the
starboard foot-bar. periods or osmosis in the gelcoat mainsail leech and in this case if you
The following system can help could result. do land towards the back of the sail
manage excess spinnaker halyard in It’s beneficial to detach the fore- there will be more give to absorb the
the sets and takedowns. First, attach a stay prior to storage, decreasing load shock load than landing around the luff
small bullet block to the end of a four- on the mast and the hull. This can be area which is supported by the mast.
foot piece of shock cord. Attach a achieved by substituting the vang-like Main and Jib care tips
second small bullet block to the port, purchase system attached to the · Spray the main luff tape and track
rear, hiking strap mount. Pass the trapeze rings and bow, for the forestay. regularly with McLube to reduce
shock cord through this bullet block In preparation for going on the road, wear on the bolt rope, particularly
and tie the end to the forward, port, check to make sure the boat is resting around the batten ends.
hiking strap mount. Lastly, run the evenly on the trailer before tying down. · Minor repairs can be carried out
spinnaker halyard from the starboard Try to avoid leaving loose metallic with adhesive Dacron or ideally
stand-up block, through the block on objects such as pieces of the launching Mylar stickyback. Ensure the
the shock cord, and then to the port dolly, blades, or boom in the boat while damaged area is dry and salt free,
 by wiping it down with Methyl Launching & Retrieving:
·
Hydrate (Rubbing Alcohol).
Avoid handling the sails on hard
The drawback of having a tall mast Section 2
surfaces such as concrete.
and narrow waterline is that the boat
has less stability when tied up to a Sailing Tips
· Wash the mainsail zipper with dock. Don’t put the boat into the Upwind Sailing:
fresh water regularly. Do not spray water until you are ready to go sailing. There are few adjustments to be made
with any lubricants, other than Double check the bow and stern on the 29er while sailing that will greatly
McLube, as they attract grit. plugs! When you do put the boat in affect your boat speed. The most
· Tie a stopper knot in the jib sheet the water, try to pull it up along side successful sailors will be the ones who
with the clew 900mm away from the dock to allow one wing to rest on sail the boat most often in a variety of
the traveler block. This helps to the upper edge of the dock. This conditions.
restrict the jib from wrapping greatly stabilizes the boat and allows
around the forestay when cap- for the crew to easily slide in the
sized, reducing the principal Light Wind, Pre-trapeze
centerboard and rudder. Don’t be
cause of broken battens. Light wind sailing can be frustrating in
afraid to use the trapeze wires,
any boat. The 29er is no exception.
shrouds, or spinnaker halyard to keep
Spinnaker care tips The boat is very sensitive to crew
the boat upright if it tips when initially
weight placement. The hull has a fine
Your spinnaker cloth has a silicone entering the water.
entry and a very flat run aft. In flat
finish which reduces friction in the The crew should enter the boat
water, the goal is to reduce wetted
launching chute and when gybing and first and stand just behind the centre-
surface in the stern by sitting forward.
with care you can prolong the life of board box with feet well apart so that
In light air the boat will sail fastest
your sail. the boat can be easily balanced when
when it is heeled slightly (to lift the
· Avoid drying in direct sunlight or the skipper comes aboard.
windward aft bottom out of the water
flapping in the wind. To retrieve from the water, have
and so reduce wetted area), and
· Check the mouth of your spinna- the dolly in a position such that the
trimmed bow-down so that the leeward
ker chute for any sharp edges by boat can be pulled directly from the
chine aft just skims the surface (to
running your fingers firmly over all water up onto the dolly. It’s generally
reduce drag). For this trim, both skip-
surfaces. Sharp surfaces will not a good idea to have one person on
per and crew will need to be close
only cut the cloth, they will also each side of the boat, picking it up
together near the mast partner – in
“pull” seam threads. and walking it forward, rather than
some cases both will be on the part-
· Spray your launching chute sliding it onto the dolly.
ner!. The coordination used by the
regularly with McLube to reduce Hoist launching works well if set
fastest crews is for the helmsman to
friction. up correctly. The sling should be
remain as steady as possible and
· “Pulled” threads can often be centered over the centerboard trunk.
concentrate on performance, and for
addressed by laying the gathered The forward portions of the sling can
the crew to move, smoothly, as neces-
area of the seam out on a flat be attached to the hull shroud eyes on
sary to maintain balance.
surface and carefully adjusting the each side. The rear portion can go
The decision on whether to sit on
tension of the thread back into the from the cockpit out through the rear
the windward or leeward side of the
form of the original stitch by re- foot strap, under the hull, back up
mast may depend on total crew weight
tensioning the thread with a through the opposite foot strap into
and wind velocity. Weight distribution
needle, un-picker or similar tool. the cockpit and back to the lifting loop
works well with the crew on, or in front
· Tears can be easily repaired with over the centerboard trunk. The foot
of the partner and the skipper sitting
the use of silicone sealant / glue straps should not take any load!
inside the boat directly on top of the
and some .75oz spinnaker cloth. They are just to keep the sling under
centerboard or closer to the windward
Wash the damaged area with the hull from sliding forward. The rear
rail. Keep weight close together. If
fresh water and Methyl Hydrate . portion of the sling should be made
there is chop, sitting too far forward
Cut a patch that is 25mm larger from rope to prevent damage to the
may hurt boat speed. Occasional
that the damaged area, smear a hull.
waves over the bow are OK, but
thin layer of silicone around the
constant waves over the bow require
edge of the patch, spread the
damaged area out on a flat sur-
Problems? some weight movement aft.
If you encounter problems rigging your Start with the jib sheet attached to
face and apply the patch. When
boat you can do three things: the upper hole of the clew board and
dry the damaged cloth may be cut
1. Put up a message on the website at the track pins on the second hole in
away leaving the patch. Ordinary
[Link] from the rail. Don’t over sheet the jib.
sticky back rip-stop will not stay
2. e-mail the factory at: A good reference for sheeting the jib is
adhered to the silicone finish on
PS2000@[Link] the distance from the jib car to the clew.
the spinnaker.
3. Phone the factory at 514 363 5050 Four inches is a good starting point.
You can also trim the jib to the point feel the boat “loading up” and will react spinnaker in lighter wind. When headed
where the bottom of the sail is just faster with the jib than the crew. Noth- too close to the wind, the spinnaker will
touching the rail of the boat. The jib ing, repeat nothing, slows down a 29er have to be sheeted hard to remain full,
sheet should be adjusted quite regularly faster than an over trimmed jib! slowing boat speed. If sailing too far off
depending on what you want the boat to If in doubt - let it out! the wind, the boat will stall and the
do. If pointing is preferred, sheet the jib mainsail will block the wind from the
in half an inch and give the boat a Tacking spinnaker. To sail fast, the boat must be
slight leeward heel to help pointing. If sailed between these two extremes.
In light wind, make your turn into the
you want speed for oncoming chop, When the spinnaker luffs, pull in the
wind slowly in an attempt to maintain
ease the jib sheet an inch and keep the spinnaker sheet. If the spinnaker needs
momentum. When headed straight into
boat flat. constant sheeting to remain full, steer
the wind, increase the speed of the turn
Pull the mainsheet taut. Downhaul and the boat slightly away from the wind. If
to minimize time headed directly into
boom vang should be snug. Slacken the spinnaker looks like it’s just hanging
the wind. When your tack is nearly
the outhaul to where the clew is about 3 in front of the boat and not staying full,
complete, allow a slight bit of leeward
inches from the end of the boom. try heading towards the wind. If the
heel and flatten the boat smoothly with
spinnaker is full but you are going really
sails sheeted in.
slow, try easing the spinnaker sheet or
Trapeze Conditions In trapeze conditions, start your
head towards the wind a little. Always
This is where the 29er will start to take turn slowly but as soon as the jib luffs,
try to ease the spinnaker sheet, inches
off upwind. The crew should be on the turn the boat onto the new tack. Try to
at a time, until the luff begins to curl.
trapeze, either all the way out or stand- minimize the time making the manoeu-
ing on the outside foot rails just aft of vre and maximize the time at which you
the shrouds. In big chop, moving a foot are traveling full speed. Trapeze Conditions
aft from the shrouds will help to keep The same concepts for light wind
the bow out of the waves. Don’t move Downwind Sailing spinnaker trim apply to all wind condi-
too far aft too early. The skipper will be Sailing a 29er off the wind is one of the tions. If the wind is barely strong
progressing from the inboard position most exhilarating feelings in our sport. enough for the crew to flat out trapeze,
onto the rail, ending up next to the It is extremely fast and will always get use the metal foot-bars inside the
crew’s feet. your heart pumping when the breeze is cockpit to trapeze from. Don’t feel like
Pointing shouldn’t be a priority and on. It is important for the crew to you have to sail really high angles to
speed should be your number one concentrate 100% on the spinnaker, the keep your crew all the way out on the
concern. Keep the jib trimmed in no major driving force of the boat. trapeze. If the wind doesn’t allow flat
less than 4 inches, with the track pins out planing, try to sail lower angles in an
on the second hole in from the rail. Spinnaker sets and takedowns attempt to surf existing wind chop or
Tighten the jib halyard as needed to swell. Head towards the wind to gain
Before setting or taking down the speed and then carry your newly
remove any scallops between the
spinnaker, head the boat onto a broad acquired speed down to surf the waves.
hanks attaching it to the forestay. The
reach, nearly downwind. As the wind increases, the crew can
outhaul should be all the way on.
To set, pull upward on the spinna- get out on the trapeze generally in the
Tighten the vang and downhaul as the
ker halyard from behind the starboard same place they were standing upwind,
wind progresses. Be generous with
side stand-up block. The crew should moving further back as the wind in-
your control lines and don’t over do it.
pull the halyard while skipper looks up creases, to allow the boat to plane on
When going for speed, keep both
occasionally to tell the crew how much the aft portion of the hull. It’s important
jib tell-tales flowing back and keep the
further they need to pull. When all the to not over sheet the spinnaker if you
boat as flat as possible. The mainsheet
way up, the crew should immediately are trying to go fast. For speed, ease
should be tight except when you need
reach for the leeward spinnaker sheet the spinnaker to where it is just on the
to de-power. It can be difficult, but
to begin trimming. verge of luffing. When there is enough
easing the jib and the main together as
To take down, uncleat the spinna- breeze to trapeze upwind, there is
a puff hits can really help your boat
ker halyard, pull the tail of the halyard, plenty of wind to trapeze and plane
speed. Some people like to have the
now the retrieval line, from behind the downwind. If you’re not planing, head up
crew trim the mainsheet from the
port side stand-up block until the a bit or ease the spinnaker sheet, or
trapeze while the skipper trims the jib.
spinnaker is sufficiently in the sock. both. If you become overpowered
It takes some communication and
practice, but it can be done very effec- sailing with the spinnaker and the
tively. Light Wind, Pre-trapeze mainsheet is already eased, head the
TIP: In really heavy air, it is more The same upwind concepts work going boat away from the wind.
important that the jib be cracked even downwind too. Sit forward, keep weight When the wind gets up above 18
before the main. This is the principal together and move gently in the boat. knots, wind chop becomes larger. Big
reason that a skipper and crew reverse There is a small range of headings waves get a little scary downwind when
the sheets as the skipper is the first to and trim appropriate for flying the the 29er has the potential to travel at
greater than wind speed. These condi- wind to help the spinnaker around the windward roll, scooting out from under
tions require special attention: forestay rather than ripping it around the crew and turning back over.
· The crew can use the foot strap at with the sheet after the gybe. If the boat turtles in shallow water
the transom of the boat to stabilize In heavy wind (20+ knots), it is and the mast gets stuck, go to the bow
themselves when there are signifi- advantageous to be planing when going and swim the boat so that the cockpit is
cant changes in boat speed. into a gybe. To keep the boat under facing the wind. In this case, the wind
· The crew should lower the trapeze control, sustain your speed by gybing will be pushing the mast out of the mud
so that they are in a more reclined the boom first. After this is achieved, rather than into it. Then, have both
position and not “standing up” on then gybe the spinnaker. It is important skipper and crew get onto the
the rail. This greatly improves for the skipper to decisively turn the centerboard. Be patient, it may take
stability when standing further from boat slightly toward the wind soon after awhile to get the mast unstuck. Once
the mast. the gybe to gain stability. Keep in mind, unstuck, have one person stay on the
· The skipper can smoothly steer the these are very challenging conditions centerboard while the other swims the
boat and talk to the crew about up- and time in the boat will pay off. boat into the capsize recovery position
coming waves or puffs of wind. described above.
· When you are going fast and Capsize Recovery If the capsize occurred while
encounter a large motor boat wake Capsizing is inevitable and happens to traveling downwind with the spinnaker
or wave, try sheeting in the spinna- the best sailors. Try not to panic and hoisted, douse the spinnaker by
ker before crossing the waves to instead think about how to solve your uncleating the halyard and pulling on
slow the boat down gradually, rather particular situation. There will be some the retrieval line while capsized. Don’t
than suffering an abrupt decrease in races where the team who rights their fret about getting the spinnaker pulled
speed as you fall off the back side of boat the fastest might actually do the completely into the sock. Pull enough
the wave. This helps to keep your best. It’s a good idea to discuss this in so that the spinnaker is not going to
crew from flying around the forestay. subject with your crew and work out the flap around in the wind or get dragged
steps you are going to take to solve it. in the water when you right the boat.
Gybing Techniques The fail-safe method requires both Finish dousing the spinnaker when you
Gybing techniques can vary depending sailors to fall in the water and swim get settled.
on wind strength and skipper/crew boat around to the centerboard. Make sure Acknowledgement
handling skills. that the jib sheet is uncleated and get to I should very much like to to thank Chad
In moderate conditions, trimming the the centerboard as fast as possible to Turner for all his hard work in getting this
spinnaker to the new side as the skipper avoid turtling. If the boat does turtle, rigging manual together. Chad under-
slowly turns through the wind onto the use the weight of both skipper and crew stands the importance of doing things
new gybe, nearly or completely filling the to bring the boat onto its side with the the correct away and it shows in the
spinnaker before actually gybing the mast parallel to the water. Do this by narrative. It was undertaken entirely of
boom seems to be very fast. In most holding the tip of the centerboard while his own volition and it was his own
cases, if the turn is smooth and gradual, standing on the rail and leaning out. motivation made this manual happen.
the 29er will only drop off a plane for a To prevent another capsize immedi- He says he did it because he hated to
second or two, if at all. It can also be ately after righting the boat, have one see sailors not enjoying their sailing
done on a wave where speed losses are person swim the bow of the boat toward experience in the 29er to the fullest. Our
very small. This method also avoids the the wind, with the hull bottom facing the sincere thanks. Ian Bruce, Ed.
common twisting (hourglass) that can wind direction. When in position,
occur when the spinnaker is blanketed attempt to right the boat with both the Note from the Author
against the windward side of the jib. skipper and crew on the centerboard. The 29er is an exceptional boat. Its
STEPS: Don’t try to jump into the boat too soon. simplicity still amazes me and its speed
1) Slow turn away from wind. 2) Crew in First, stabilize the boat while you are makes everything else seem slow. I
from trapeze at same time releasing still in the water on the windward side truly believe that this modern design will
spinnaker sheet and grabbing new and keep the bow from crossing the contribute greatly to the sport of sailing,
sheet - Boat is dead down wind at this wind. Righting the boat in a position allowing sailors of all ages to keep
point. 3) Pull in new sheet. such that the sails will fill slightly upon learning at a fast pace while remaining
4) At the same time, continue turning the recovery will help to counterbalance the captivated by its performance. This
boat and gybe the boom, gradually boat as you climb back in on the wind- manual was written with the intent to
heading up as the crew jumps out onto ward side. Climb in one at a time with help new owners gain a basic under-
the trapeze. the first person in getting hold of the standing of the boat’s rigging and to
The greater your boat speed, the mainsheet AND THE TILLER and introduce basic skiff sailing concepts.
easier it is. Don’t try to force the boat sheeting in enough to put some force in I would like to officially welcome you to
around. Make a nice smooth turn. This the main. The principal reason for one of the newest and most exciting
gybe allows for minimal lag time, ena- turning over again, after a capsize, is dingy classes in the world. I hope you
bling the boat to begin accelerating as the fact that the main is loose no one enjoy the 29er as much as I have. See
soon as the boom is across, using the is on the tiller and the boat does a you on the water. Chad Turner