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Types of Kantha Embroidery Explained

Kantha is a traditional quilted embroidery from Bangladesh that repurposes old clothing, providing income for rural women in West Bengal. It features various stitches and motifs, with types including Arshilata, Bayton, Durjani, Lep Kantha, Oar, and Sujani, each with unique designs and uses. The central motif across many Kantha pieces is the lotus, often accompanied by scenes from Hindu epics and nature-inspired designs.

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
78 views1 page

Types of Kantha Embroidery Explained

Kantha is a traditional quilted embroidery from Bangladesh that repurposes old clothing, providing income for rural women in West Bengal. It features various stitches and motifs, with types including Arshilata, Bayton, Durjani, Lep Kantha, Oar, and Sujani, each with unique designs and uses. The central motif across many Kantha pieces is the lotus, often accompanied by scenes from Hindu epics and nature-inspired designs.

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Kantha

Kantha is a centuries-old quilted embroidery that originated in Bangladesh (earlier known as


East Bengal), and involves using old or discarded clothing items like sarees or dhotis. This helps
repurpose worn-out clothes, and ensures that each Kantha embroidered fabric has a rich history.
It has been a consistent source of income for the rural community of women living in West
Bengal for several decades and is mainly practiced in the district of Murshidabad.
The objective behind Kantha embroidery was to utilize old clothes, which the word ‘Kantha’
literally means. Kantha also means ‘throat’, which refers to Lord Shiva’s story of how his neck
turned blue while saving humankind from the contaminated ocean. It earned him the name ‘Nila
Kantha’, meaning blue throat. By virtue of this legend, ancient Kantha quilts had ritualistic
symbols and animals stitched onto them and were often used during childbirth and marriages.
Earlier, Kantha embroidery was done using the infamous running stitch, one of the most
common stitches. Over time, as Kantha began to gain popularity and more intricate patterns
developed, the stitch became known as ‘Nakshi Kantha. While there are no specific designs for
this stitch, the lotus flower, birds, fish, plants, flowers, and other relevant designs are
predominantly used in Nakshi Kantha.
Further, cross-stitch, darning stitch, satin and loop stitches are also used in Kantha embroidery.
Types of Kantha
Arshilata is a narrow rectangle-shaped cover used for mirrors, combs, or toilet accessories.
Motifs include scenes from the Raas of Krishna Leela or Radha-Krishna. Lotuses, zig-zags, and
scrolls are other commonly used motifs.
Bayton is a square-shaped cover for books and other similar items, made using colorful
threads like yellow, blue, green, and red. The primary motif in this Kantha is the lotus flower
with hundred petals, also called ‘Satadala Padma’. The oldest design used is a mandala, which
symbolises the unity of all manifestations of life. Other motifs include trees, foliage, pots,
shells, and kalkas.
Durjani, also known as ‘thalia’, is a square-shaped Kantha made to cover a wallet. It has a
detailed border with a lotus as the central motif. It is sewn together like an envelope with a
tassel or string attached to it.
Lep Kantha is a thick quilt used during the winter to provide warmth. Usually, geometrical
designs are stitched onto it, giving the finished piece a wavy look.
Oar is a rectangle-shaped Kantha quilt mainly used as a pillow cover. It usually has simple
motifs like birds, creepers, trees, and foliages.
Sujani : the most popular type of Kantha called sujani is a large piece of embroidered cloth
used during ceremonies. Due to its size, the expanse of imagination and creativity involved is
also greater than typical in other types of Kantha. However, the one similarity that prevails is
the central motif, which is a lotus. The other designs seen in this Kantha are scenes from the
Ramayana and Mahabharata, along with folk tales, birds, flowers, bees, etc.

Common questions

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The thematic motifs from Indian epics like the Ramayana and Mahabharata in Sujani Kantha serve to anchor the embroidery in deep cultural and spiritual narratives. These motifs not only embellish the fabric with culturally significant stories but also function as a medium for storytelling and moral instruction within communities. The depiction of these epics in Sujani Kantha highlights the importance of preserving and teaching cultural values and serves to engage narratives from the past, sustaining their relevance across generations .

Kantha embroidery serves an economic purpose by being a consistent source of income for rural women in West Bengal, particularly in the Murshidabad district. It repurposes old clothes into new items, therefore sustaining local economies through the sale of these embroidered pieces. Culturally, Kantha preserves historical and ritualistic traditions, as its techniques and motifs involve significant cultural stories and symbols, like the Nila Kantha associated with Lord Shiva, and it reflects folk tales and symbols from the Ramayana and Mahabharata .

Kantha embroidery's connection to Hindu mythology is exemplified in the story of Lord Shiva, where the term 'Kantha' signifies 'throat' related to his legend as the 'Nila Kantha'. This narrative, where Shiva's neck turns blue while saving the world, integrates into the Kantha tradition through motifs and themes of resilience and protection, reflecting Shiva's protective qualities in the symbols and patterns used in Kantha quilts .

Bayton and Lep Kantha serve distinct practical uses encapsulated in their designs. Bayton is a square-shaped cover used for books or documents, utilizing vibrant colorful threads and the lotus motif, signifying knowledge and enlightenment. In contrast, Lep Kantha is a thick quilt for warmth, characterized by geometrical designs that provide a visually wavy look, focusing more on functionality for weather protection rather than aesthetic or symbolic significance .

Nakshi Kantha represents the traditional aspects of Kantha through its use of the basic running stitch and incorporation of familiar motifs like the lotus, birds, and fish, symbolizing cultural continuity. However, it also epitomizes adaptation as it has evolved to include complex patterns and a variety of stitches such as cross-stitch and satin, demonstrating artistic evolution and the embroidery's response to changing tastes and market demands .

Kantha embroidery empowers women by providing them with a source of income, thereby enhancing their economic status and independence. It allows them to use traditional skills to create marketable products, which can be sold both within the local communities and in broader markets. This economic activity fosters community solidarity and helps preserve cultural heritage, while also giving women the means to contribute financially to their households .

Besides the running stitch, other stitch types like cross-stitch, darning stitch, satin, and loop stitches have contributed to the evolution of Kantha embroidery by allowing for more intricate and varied patterns. These techniques have enabled artists to incorporate diverse motifs and refine their designs, elevating Kantha from simple utilitarian quilts to intricate pieces of art, thus broadening its artistic appeal and marketability .

The lotus motif is central in many types of Kantha, symbolizing purity and spiritual enlightenment. It appears in several forms: as the hundred-petaled 'Satadala Padma' in Bayton, the central motif in Durjani, and prominently in Sujani Kantha, it signifies beauty and divinity across various cultural narratives. This recurrence underlines the importance of the lotus as a cultural and religious symbol within local traditions .

Kantha quilts serve as significant cultural artifacts during ritualistic and ceremonial events. Early Kantha quilts featured ritual symbols and animals that were believed to confer blessings and protection, traditionally used during childbirth and marriages. For ceremonial purposes, the Sujani Kantha is particularly notable for its large embroidered cloth used in such contexts, often depicting scenes from religious texts like the Ramayana and Mahabharata, symbolizing blessing and prosperity .

Historically, utilizing old clothes in Kantha embroidery allowed communities to repurpose worn-out garments, embedding a rich history into each piece and making use of available materials during times of scarcity. Environmentally, it contributes to sustainability by reducing textile waste and promoting the recycling of resources, thus advocating a sustainable lifestyle that minimizes environmental impact .

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