Introduction to Textile Processes - Basics of Textile Fibers

Texturing
Week 6

INTRODUCTION

We could say that texturizing is the process by which it has been given
life to artificial fibers and the introduction of textured yarns are the
most significant development after their emergence, since
both the developments achieved in texturing technology are surprising,
the increase in the use of this type of threads. It is believed that more than half
The artificial fibers produced undergo a texturizing process.
properly speaking, although almost all of them are subjected to some type of curling.

Texturing allowed the production of textile fabrics from filament threads.

pleasant appearance and touch, similar to those obtained with spun yarns. Even
high volume threads and fabrics that cannot be obtained by any other means were successfully created
average and not to mention the elasticity that could be achieved, especially in the
nylon fibers. Its success was such that at first the impact was not felt.
appearance of expanded fibers that exceed in elasticity and recovery
any other fiber.

This week we are going to examine the different texturing methods

emphasizing the texturing by false twist by spindle and false twist with
discs, the first because it has been the most used since the emergence of the process and the
second because it is the system that has replaced the first and for which
obtained great technological developments. Also because the false system
twisting is the one that best lends itself to the treatment of nylon and polyester, which
they are the queen fibers in the textured yarn market. In any case, no
the other processes and fibers can be overlooked, whose developments and
markets have also evolved.

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WELCOME

HISTORICAL REVIEW

The Heberlein company develops the twisting texturing technique around the year
1932, which consisted of twisting, fixing, and untwisting the filaments.

In 1934, British Celanese Ltd. obtained the first patent with the
fugitive torsion procedure or false torsion, the three operations are performed
continuous form.

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 Introduction to Textile Processes - Basics of Textile Fibers
Textured
Until the 1950s, there was only small-scale production of threads.
textured triacetate cellulose.

Cellulose acetate was the second textured material (1934 - 1935).

Cellulosic material as a texturizing base was difficult to fix and had low
curl permanence.

In 1937, Du Pont obtained the first patent for synthetic fibers.

specifically for the texturization of polyamide, resulting in a product
voluminous with high-quality curls.

Soon, the companies that joined these works on polyamide were:

Tayo Rayon Co
Heberlein & Co With successive improvements from 1940 to 1951
Billior and Company

In 1952, the textured nylon Helanca thread is well known.

These recent brands are starting to use polyester as a texturable material, with
exceptional properties for outdoor clothing applications.

The texturization of other synthetic fibers besides nylon and polyester has been in
limited by their relative thermal behavior characteristics.

TEXTURIZED

Definition of Texturing

It is the general term that applies to any thread of continuous filament to which
some form of curling or wavy has been introduced.

Texturing gives smooth filaments the aesthetic properties of yarns.

threads by modifying the surface characteristics and creating spaces between the
fibers. This achieves greater breathability and permeability for the fabric.
to moisture; the fabric is then more absorbent, more comfortable, accumulates
less static and presents greater ease of care. They also increase the
volume, covering power, elasticity, and stretch.

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 Introduction to Textile Processes - Basic of Textile Fibers
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Elastic textured yarns (stretch yarns)

These threads are characterized by having not only a high elongation but also
also a rapid elastic recovery and a moderate volume. They are elaborated
mainly with nylon fiber and are widely used for men's hosiery and
woman, tights, swimsuits, sportswear and jerseys. The elastic threads
they make it possible to produce one-size garments.

They are basically obtained through the false torsion texturization system, although
the textured threads by the Arista and Tejido Destejido methods also have
great elasticity.

Stabilized textured threads or type Set

Textured threads are characterized by the intensity of the curl, but when they
talks about Set threads, referring to textured threads with specific characteristics
due to the action of temperature.

Set or stabilized threads are made using a false twisting machine.

whether spindle or disc, with a second additional oven, better said, with
double heater. The false twist yarn stretches slightly and stabilizes at
a temperature higher than that used during texturization (first oven).

In the late 60s, these machines were built with a second oven.
additional for the production of Set threads in a continuous process with the
textured. This meant a significant technical and economic advance. But it brought about
disadvantage a considerable increase in the size of the texturizing machines.

The stabilized textured threads, mainly made of polyester, represent a

large segment of the threads used in clothing. They are threads
stabilized elastics that have volume and little elasticity that provides
comfort. The fabrics made with these threads are easy to care for, they have
an excellent touch and fall and maintain their size and shape during use and
cleaning.

Bulky or voluminous yarns

The voluminized threads are those that have a greater appearance of volume and
They can be obtained from any type of filaments. They have less
elasticity that the Set and Stretch threads provide. They are mainly obtained from the
texturizing methods by curling iron, by air jet, and by gears.

There is also a great variety of intrinsically curly chemical fibers that

they allow the manufacturing of bulky items, which are known as
bicomponent and bi-shrinkable fibers.

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 Introduction to Textile Processes - Basics of Textile Fibers
Texturized

Texturized by False Torsion

Although there are many systems to modify the surface of the filaments and
achieve curling or wavy hair, the false twisting system is the most
widely used. And although there are many fibers to which one can
curling, waving, or any other modification, are nylon and polyester
those that are best suited for this process and those that have the highest demand for
part of the textile industry and consumers. Therefore, when talking about
texturized, it can almost be said that it is referring to the system of
false twisting, as a process, and nylon and polyester, as texturizable fibers.
For the other processes and fibers, we rather speak of curling, waving, loops or
spirals; although it is also accepted to call it texturing process or
textured.

The twisting was initially a process for working silk into filament, but
evolved to the handling of artificial fibers and later to texturizing. The
twisting provides the specific type of thread required for a product in
particular; examples of this are low-twist threads for making fabrics
perched or high-twisted ones for crepe fabrics. The twist has also been
used as a means to reduce the intrinsic luster of synthetic fibers.

The oldest twisting texturing technique is the classic twisting method -

destroyer. It was developed by the Heberlein Company of Switzerland. There are three stages.
in its production:
• Application of torsion
• Thread heat setting in an autoclave
• Twisted from the thread

The process produced an excellent elastic thread, but it was costly and has been
replaced by the false torsion system.

Currently, there are three faux-torsion texturing systems:

False torsion spindle (spindle – diabolo)
Textured by friction with discs
3. Textured by friction with bands or straps (Murata Company of
Japan.

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 Introduction to Textile Processes - Basics of Textile Fibers
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The screw - diablo system has been the most used system throughout the times,
but it has been replaced by the friction texturing system with discs and it
he is introducing the Japanese friction texturing system with bands.

The first continuous false twist texturing machines appeared in the

market between 1954 - 1958.

FALSE TORSION AXIS (SPINDLE –DIADEM)

The false torsion spindle has been an ideal device for producing elastic threads.
It is a continuous process, the thread twists, is set with heat, and untwists as it goes.
what happens through the spindle. As the false torsion spindle rotates, there will be a
twisted in S on one side and a twist in Z on the other side. When
the thread unravels, the filaments take on the shape of a helix deformed by
the twisted one. If the thread is pulled from one of the ends, the helices will
They will straighten, hence it is elastic.

This process has two variants:

• False torsion with prior stretching
• False torsion with simultaneous stretching.

Parts of the texturizer by false twisting

Feeding strips

The material to be textured is arranged in them. They usually have one or two cops.
for reserve to ensure continuous operation.

b) Power supply system:

It consists of tension rollers or belts located before and after the heater and
of the false torsion spindle.

c) Heat treatment:

It is perhaps one of the critical points of the machine since the time of
the thread's permanence in the heating zone must be minimal, but without
The embargo must ensure proper heating of the filaments to be textured.

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 Introduction to Textile Processes - Basics of Textile Fibers
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The temperature distribution along the heating plate must be very
regular, the same as between one plate and another.

The design of the texturizer, the thread path, and the mechanical conditions
They are largely determined by the necessary length of the furnace.

Spindle speed 70,000 to 750,000 rpm

In industrial practice Furnace length 500 mm
Thread duration in the oven 350 milliseconds
One heating unit / 2 spindles

Initially, contact plates were used to achieve the heating of the wire.
At the beginning of the 60s, the convection oven appeared, which proved to be very effective.
for the second furnace, which is the area intended to neutralize the excessive
thread wrinkling (set threads).

Despite the factors that may delay the heating of the wire such as the
enzyme that brings the fiber and the high moisture that it usually has
due to the fact that in the texturizing room the relative humidity is 65 to 70%, the
Heating systems must ensure that the material reaches the temperature.
of regime in a minimum time of 0.25 to 0.35 seconds, which is the time that
Usually, it is necessary to preheat the oven.

Currently, the selected processes to ensure heating of the

Hello, it consists of the application of the 3 major principles of thermal exchange:
Convection→ By hot air or steam
Radiation→ Heating plate or tube
Contact→ It allows the same temperature for the oven and the thread.
Combinations of the above.

The treatment temperature of the thread has a great influence on its quality and
its dyeing affinity.

In the mid-60s, ovens appeared in which oil is stored inside.

known as Difil (Diamethylhexane), which is highly toxic and normally
used in the form of saturated steam.. This improved the texturing process by false
twisting; ensuring constant temperature throughout the oven (maximum difference
of± 0.5°C.

After rpm in the spindle reached above 800,000 and 1,000,000

the length of the oven started to grow disproportionately.

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 Introduction to Textile Processes - Basics of Textile Fibers
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Cooling group

When the thread leaves the oven, it is subjected to the action of vibrations.
periodicities imposed by the spindle, which leads to the formation of a balloon.
Thanks to this, the thread is agitated very quickly allowing for rapid cooling.
of the same.

The spindle with a whorl→ It showcases the most stable ball.

→ Allows for rapid cooling
→ A zone of 50 cm is sufficient to cool the thread by
below the required before it reaches the spindle.

The thermal cooling problems appear in friction texturing.

e) Torsion functional groups

The industrial introduction of this texturizing process at a high-tech level

started in the early 50s. The directly driven torsion groups
by means of a tangential belt, they reached 20,000 rpm in those years.

1952→Heberleín, incredibly went from 20,000 to 90,000 rpm.

1958 → 160,000 rpm (Heberlein) spindle motor or spindle motor, the spindle was the
rotor.
1960→ 250,000 rpm→ with drag and support discs.
1969→ 350,000 rpm→ with drag and hold discs.

Efforts for these developments were combined from:

• Texturizers
• Chemical fiber producers
• Enzyme manufacturers
• Machinery builders and
• Artisans, experts in polishing precious stones

New materials of great hardness such as sapphire and ceramic were required.
synthesized to manufacture pellets with minimal roughness tolerance.

In 1975, at the Itma in Milan, a texturizer was presented for the first time with
more than 1,000,000 rpm in the spindle (Murata type 333), with variations of
speeds between spindles of less than 0.5%. Then speeds would be achieved
greater than 1,500,000 rpm.

The centrifugal forces acting on each part of the thread acquire

such force that the thread loses contact with the diabolo and the connection is interrupted.

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 Introduction to Textile Processes - Basics of Textile Fibers
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functionality of torque transmission. In addition, the thread is pressed against
the walls of the spindle, causing abrasion with the consequent breakage of
filaments.

Obstacles in the development of texturization by false twisting:

• Spindle speed→ limit 800,000 to 1,500.00 rpm
• Heat transfer→ warming
→ post-cooling En la zona de texturización
• Relatively low production speed
• Excessive noise.
• Others, such as the inner diameter of the rotating tube, which must be 6 times
larger than the diameter of the thread, so that the knots can pass.
Example: Polyester 167 dtex→ The inner diameter of the tube must be 0.9
a 1.0 mm

TEXTURED BY FRICTION WITH DISCS

It developed in the early 70s when the system had reached its limit.
spindle – diabolo.

The imparted torsion depends on the friction conditions between the thread and the
surface of the friction element.

Initially, there were problems with the spin finish of the yarn (enzyming of the yarn) in
the moment of contact between the thread and the friction element.

It has not been possible to develop a suitable disc or friction element for
any type of thread.

The surface texture of the appropriate friction element depends on:

→ The nature of the thread used.
→ The applied preparation (spin finish).
→ The character of the thread to be textured.

Material used for the friction surface:

→ Polyurethane
→ Ceramics
→ Agate
→ Diamond dust coated disc (developed by Du Pont)

Initially, friction texturing was aimed at fine deniers; currently, it

use for all titles.

It is technically focused on high speeds, over 350m/min.

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 Introduction to Textile Processes - Basics of Textile Fibers
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Technologically, it can be said that the twisting is communicated to the threads.
applying a torsional force.

The friction texturing unit with discs consists of nine flat wheels.
which produce high friction on their peripheral part. It has three vertical axes
arranged in such a way that they form an equilateral triangle among themselves and each one
it has three of these wheels coupled. The thread goes from top to bottom through the
axes, in such a way that the thread is in contact with the peripheral surface of each
wheel.

The effect of friction is affected by:

• The angle
• The contact length (penetration or overlap of some discs with respect to
to others)
• The thickness
• The profile
• The diameter of the discs
• The coefficients of friction
• The preparation of the threads (spin finish and others)
• The temperature of the thread

The surface plays a key role in the duration of

disk and for the transmission of torque, since this requires great consistency in
the contact time and high uniformity among the different work points.

Theoretically, with the friction technique, speeds can be reached

higher than those normally accepted by the heating functional group, this
It is the technological limitation of this process.

Advantages of friction texturing

Noise reduction.
2. One turn of the disc reports more than one turn or twist in the thread, since
the thread is forced to roll around the edge of the disk.
Easy threading.
Fewer thread breakages.
5. The thread is subjected to less stress (due to the suppression of the diabolos and
of the ball).
Less energy consumption.

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 Introduction to Textile Processes - Basic of Textile Fibers
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Disadvantages or demands

The fed material must have special properties with high

uniformity.
2. Requirement for greater mass production due to the properties
of the thread and the application capacity are restricted with the increase of the
texturization speed.

3.3. TEXTURIZING BY FRICTION WITH CROSS BANDS

This is a new conception of the friction texturing system. It was

developed by Murata Machinery from Japan. It is a pair of bands that
they form a crossed torsion device. It is suitable for nylon and polyester and
It can process fine and thick threads. It is a new concept that is not yet well understood.
known in our environment.

Stretched - Textured

With the emergence of fast spinning, that is, of MOY threads (threads
medium-oriented), first and the POY (partially oriented yarns),
later, high-speed produced threads were made available and fully suitable for
the texturing process, since they are allowed to stretch in a simultaneous process with the
texturized, where the thread is stretched to its full length in the same area of
twist, thus disappearing the previous stretching area of previous systems.

It is possible to integrate the fiber extrusion processes with stretching and

textured. But practice has shown better results with a sequence
like this:
• Filament extrusion and partial stretching.
• Stretched and textured.

But at the same time, there are three different ways to carry out the Stretching process -
Textured:
• First stretching and then texturing in a separate process.
• Stretching - sequential texturizing.
• Stretching – simultaneous texturing.

The stretching – sequential texturizing was fully used in the 60s with the
introduction of friction discs and the emergence of POY threads, which
compared to the fully stretched threads, they have a torsional moment
inferior and are more regular in their molecular structure, decisive aspects for the
texturization by friction.

Other Methods of Thread Texturization

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 Introduction to Textile Processes - Basics of Textile Fibers
Texturizing
Air Jet Textured

The air jet texturing process produces a displacement of the

loop or curly fibers. The heart of the machine is the nozzle and although it is
a device that varies greatly in its design, the basic principles are always
the same. The air that emerges from the nozzle forces the thread to collide with a
impact element where the filaments remain separated, giving rise to the
formation of loops.

Starting in 1954, Du Pont introduced the Taslan process, which consists of

overfeeding filament threads through a nozzle, using a needle
hollow, inclined at 45° with its axis. At the same time, air is injected.
compressed through one or several openings.

A humidification device for the thread is placed in front of the nozzle to facilitate the
formation of the loops and thus facilitate the increase in speed of
production and in the quality of the thread. As a result, the device of
moistening, together with the working unit which is the nozzle, form a
important component in the air jet texturization process.

During the process, it is important to overfeed the thread, in order for it to...
strong air turbulence can achieve loops in the filaments and the
required construction of the thread.

The stages during air jet texturing can be summarized as follows:

• FOY (fully oriented) or POY fed filament yarn
(partially oriented).
• Stretching device
• Thread entry. The threads enter the nozzle with supercharging between
20 to 30%.
• Textured by air jet. By applying compressed air, it produces
loops in the overfed and previously humidified yarns.
• Stretch stabilization.
• Termofijado to regulate the size of the loops, their stability and
residual shrinkage.
• Winding of textured yarn at a speed that varies between 50 and 750
m/min.

The hot air texturing process is a flexible method that is not

limited only to thermoplastic fibers (malleable with heat) such as nylon,
polyester and polypropylene, but it can also be used for the texturing of many
other fibers such as viscose, acetate, and glass, among others.

Air jet textured yarns have the following characteristics:

SENA, Colombia, National Textile Center, 2004

 Introduction to Textile Processes - Basics of Textile Fibers
Texturing
• They are unique in their great resemblance to the structure of fiber yarns.
cut.
• They have a surface covered with linked curls that have the same effect.
that the protruding fibers in the cut fiber threads.
• They do not tend to tangle since they were not made with twisting.
• It exhibits high toughness and high abrasion resistance.
• They have a low tendency to pill formation.
• They are threads with high bulkiness.
• Possibility of mixing several threads of different types in a single thread
filaments in the nozzle.
• Compared to false twist yarns, air jet yarns do not.
they are elastic and thanks to the deliberately protruding loops and ties,
they produce a thread with a totally different structure.
• In air jet texturing, heat fixation is not necessary.
so that the process can be used in threads that cannot be submitted
to this treatment.
• Texturing speeds of up to 750 meters per minute.
• Significant compressed air consumption.
• They are mainly used in home textiles, upholstery, technical articles.
and clothing in general.

b. Texturized with Curling Box

This box produces a sawtooth waveform with a volume

considerable. The smooth filament threads are literally embedded through a
by a pair of cylinders, through one of the ends of a small heated metal box,
from which emerge at the other end, the already wavy filaments.

The threads have some elasticity, but not enough to be classified

like elastic threads.

c. Gear Wobble

The filament thread is subjected to the action of a pair of heated gears.

they print the shape of their teeth onto the thread. The folds are angular (in
sawtooth shape) in contrast to the rounded break of a
natural wave. When used with thermoplastic fibers (malleable with
heat), the wave is permanent. "Spunized" is one of the recognized brands.
for the textured threads by this process.

Textured by edge or wavy on the edges

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 Introduction to Textile Processes - Basic of Textile Fibers
Texturized
The wavy elastic threads are made by allowing the passage of the filaments.
hot on the edge of a blade, which flattens the filaments in one of
its sides and makes the thread curl, similarly to the effect of passing a
love about scissors to screw it. The cross section of the filament
change from round to flat on one side. The flattened side is shortened, from
so that the differential shrinkage of the sides creates a spiral curl
free of torque moment. It can be used in monofilaments and in
multifilaments and it is a fast and low-cost process. The effect is similar to the
elasticity achieved with bicomponent fibers.

"Agilon" is a representative brand of angled textured yarns.

e. Textured by unraveled fabric

Also known as knit of knit or KDK, it is one of the oldest techniques.

to achieve the waviness of the threads and produce a bouclé effect in the fabrics
crepe.

It is a discontinuous process consisting of three stages:

• A tubular circular fabric is produced on a small diameter machine.
• The fabric is fixed.
• The wavy thread is wound into cones as the fabric is unraveled.

The size and frequency of the wave can be varied by the differences in
the gauge size (number of stitches per inch) and the tension.

The fabric gauge used to make the garment must be different from the
what was used to obtain the grooved thread, since if not, they will open
spaces or gaps in the places where the grooved pattern coincides with the fabric

f. Bicomponent fibers

They are synthetic fibers obtained by spinning together two different polymers, so that
so that they remain arranged in the fiber in layers side by side or one
covering the other.

The curling of bicomponent fibers is the result of the different

behavior of the two polymer components of the fiber, since the different
response to heat or swelling translates to one of the two shrinking
more than the other and result in a helical structure in which the most significant component

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 Introduction to Textile Processes - Basic of Textile Fibers
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unstable to the action of heat is located inside the curling helix. In
these fibers the two components juxtapose more or less similarly to
how the ortho and paracortex do in the wool fiber, the only natural fiber
considered to be of bicomponent nature and to which its curling is attributed
abundant.

The intensity and curling properties depend on the type and magnitude of the
differences between the two components, the proportion of these and their
geometric distribution in the cross section.

The most common bicomponent fibers are made up of the following

polymers
• Nylon 6.6 / Nylon 6
• Nylon 6.6 / Modified nylon
• Nylon 6 / Modified Nylon
• Acrylic / Modified Acrylic
• Polypropylene / modified polypropylene
• Nylon 6.6 / polyester
• Nylon 6 / polyester
• Acrylic / Casein

The first process for spinning bicomponent fibers was developed

in 1940 by American Viscose under the name of combined spinning. The holes
The nozzle is divided into two parts by a separator. The
The resulting fiber has a side-by-side or bilateral arrangement.

Another method for spinning bicomponent fibers is the tube-in-tube method. In this
In this case, a superimposed structure is formed with a central nucleus. One of the
components form the center and the other the outer layer.

The conjugate spinning was used in 1959 to produce Orlon 21, the first fiber.
bicomponent acrylic with a bilateral structure. Nylon was also one of the
the first fibers produced as bicomponents were introduced by Du Pont
with the Cantrece brand. The bicomponent fibers of polyester and olefin also
they have reached great development and although it is not strictly about fibers
bicomponents should also take into account the viscose fibers they have
a perm.

Some of these fibers are offered smooth to the market and the curling develops later.
in the processes following weaving. They are mainly used in the
manufacturing of hosiery and knitted fabrics, characterized by great adaptability
of these articles to the shape of the human body.

Curled by shrinkage

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 Introduction to Textile Processes - Basics of Textile Fibers
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Acrylic fibers have the ability to develop a potential of
latent shrinkage and retain it indefinitely at room temperature. The
latent shrinkage in a fiber is achieved by heating and stretching the fiber and then
let it cool while keeping it stretched. They are also known as fibers of
high shrinkage or memory fibers.

High shrinkage fibers can be combined in the same yarn with fibers
that do not shrink, this thread will later become part of a garment. The treatment of
this garment with heat will cause the contraction of the high shrinkage fibers,
making the fibers that do not shrink bulkier. In this way,
they obtain sweaters and similar garments in large volumes, in addition to many
articles with a variety of interesting effects.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

AGRAZ, Abrahan A. Cabras Producers of Fine Wool Hair, Editorial

Limusa, 1983.

AUGE R. Dry Cleaner 2, Editions de I’ Artisanat Moderne, Paris (France)

CORNEJO ARZATE Jose Joaquín. The Technological Advancement of Texturization,

Mexico 1992.

COSTA Mirko Raimondo. The Textile Fibers and their Dyeing, Textile Chemistry vol. II
Lima 1990

ERHARDT Theodor; Adolfo Blumcke; Walter Burger; Max Marklin; Gottfried

Quinzler. Basic Textile Technology 1, Trillas Publishing, First Edition in Spanish
1980.

GACEN GUILLÉN Joaquín and Maillo Garrido Josefina. Chemical Fibers of

Regenerated Cellulose, Editorial Terrassa 1987.

GACEN GUILLÉN Joaquín and Maillo Garrido Josefina: Cotton and Cellulose,
Editorial Terrassa 1987.
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Textured

GACEN GUILLÉN Joaquín. Aspects of Chemical Fibers, 3raEdition

Expanded.

GACEN GUILLÉN Joaquín. Acrylic Fibers, Terrassa Publishing 1987, Second

Editing

GACEN GUILLÉN Joaquín. Polyamide Fibers, Editorial Terrassa 1986.

Joaquín GACEN GUILLÉN. Polyester Fibers, Editorial Terrassa 1991, Second

Expanded Edition.

HOLLEN Norma and Jane Saddler. Introduction to Textiles, Limusa Editorial

(Noriega Publishers Group), 1987.

JOAN VICTORI COMPANYS. Tisaje 2 (Work Methods in the Process of

Weaving), Editorial Terrassa, Barcelona.

ROCAFORT Mari, Guide to Silk Worm Breeding, Vecchi S.A. Publishing

1988.

SÁNCHEZ Potes, Alberto. Manual for Agricultural Education, "Crops of

FibersfromEditing.

SINTES I. Ruis. Preparations and Finishes of Knitted Genres, Bosch House

Editorial.

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SENA, Colombia, National Textile Center, 2004