Intermediate 4.5mm, 5.5mm, 6mm, 6.
5mm Teen - Large Adult Worsted
Disclaimer: The pattern and photographs contained in this document are property of Jennifer’s Stitched Up &
H2T Crochet Factory. This pattern is available for personal use only. No unauthorized reproduction, in whole
or in part, or distribution of this pattern or content is allowed. No filming of making this pattern and posting
of film or video to any sites allowed. You may not video yourself or anyone making any part of this pattern.
Sales of finished items are permitted with credit given to Jennifer’s Stitched Up & H2T Crochet Factory.
Connect with us on Facebook by joining “Stitched Up Community.” If you need any help with my patterns, you
may contact me: jennifersstitchedup@[Link]
1
© 2021 Jennifer’s Stitched Up
Waistcoat stitch- (also known as center post stitch) The trick with this stitch is to insert
your hook in the middle of the post, just under the inverted “v,” pull up a loop, yarn over,
and pull your hook through both loops.
Waistcoat stitch decrease- Insert your hook into the “v” of the first stitch, pull up a loop,
insert your hook in the “v” of the second stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull your hook
through all three loops.
Backwards join- Remove hook and insert hook into the back of the beginning stitch.
Turn work around backwards.
Pull working loop through to the inside of the hat.
Do not ch1. Instead, pull the yarn up a bit to loosen, making it easier to start the next stitch.
Turn work around forwards.
ch = chain
st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
scinc – single crochet increase
blo = back loop only
bb = back bump
wcs = waistcoat stitch
wcsdec = waistcoat stitch decrease
FO = fasten off
** = marks the repeats around
( ) = final stitch count
2
© 2021 Jennifer’s Stitched Up
Fits most.
Teen-Large size hat measurements with I Love This Yarn: 8 ½” long x 9 ½”
wide at widest point.
Use the following hook size for the hat size you are making with the body of
the hat directions:
Small or head circumference of 16”-20 ½”, I/9 (5.5mm)
Medium-Large or head circumference of 20”-22”, J/10 (6mm)
X- Large or head circumference of 23”-24”, K/10.5 (6.5mm)
7 wcs x 7 rounds = 2” with 5.5mm hook
7 wcs x 8 rounds = 2” with 6mm hook
Worsted medium weight yarn (#4) in desired colors
Yarns used: I Love This Yarn in Black (150yards), Limelight (14 yards),
White (1 yard), Red (2 yards), Forest (12” piece)
Fuzzy yarn (Eyelash yarn) used is Bernat Boa in Dove (3 yards) -this will
be worked held together with the worsted strand of white. You can opt to sew the fur on
afterwards instead of holding the 2 strands together.
Small piece of Grey Sparkle yarn for ornament detailing (10” piece)
Crochet hooks: 7 (4.5mm), I/9 (5.5mm), J/10 (6mm), K/10.5 (6.5mm)
Yarn needle for hiding threads
Scissors
Bobbins
Faux fur pompom for the top of the hat
Stitch marker
3
© 2021 Jennifer’s Stitched Up
Please read through the entirety of this pattern before starting.
The techniques you need to know are: the waistcoat stitch, color change, backwards
join, carry yarn, and follow a graph. I have added videos of these techniques on my
Facebook page, “Jennifer’s Stitched Up.” Access my page with the hyperlink below.
I also have a Facebook Group that has many supportive crochet artists that offer
help with questions you may have. Join my group, “Stitched Up Community,” for
access to free patterns and share your finished projects with us. Use the following
tag @jennifersstitchedup
Waistcoat stitch along with the graph.
Use loose tension when making the WCS. This helps with ease of insertion into the
“v” of the stitch.
Using a pointed style crochet hook will help you grab the bar of the “v” portion of
the stitch, then when pulling your hook to the right of the “v,” or to the left when
crocheting left-handed. This will help straighten the stitch.
You will automatically color change, carry yarn, if joining-backwards join, or move
stitch marker up in every round. This is not stated after each set of directions.
You can use the backwards join (this join looks best with the waistcoat stitch) each
round or continue around using a stitch marker to keep your place. The backwards
join was added for those that like to join each round. I prefer to work without
joining to keep the hat seamless.
Various yarns, even though worsted, and varied tensions can change the
measurements of this pattern.
Do not pull carried yarn at a tight tension. This will cause the hat to not have any
stretch. You can try the hat on to check and make sure you are not doing this or you
will need to rip it out and start over.
It does not have to have a neat, clean look on the inside of the hat.
Rounds are numbered on the left & right of the graph.
Stitches are numbered on the bottom of the graph, with the option of working the
graph left to right or right to left.
Decrease rounds are highlighted with the stitch count next to the round.
Use the hyperlinks below to find me on social media, purchase patterns, and
purchase faux fur pompoms.
4
© 2021 Jennifer’s Stitched Up
How to use bobbins:
Pick up bobbin when needed, adding that color. Drop after use. When needed again in the
following round pick back up and pull across the stitches, working over the strand you just
picked back up and pulled across.
Note: when picking it up and pulling it back across the stitches to use for the next round,
you will need to make sure that it is not pulled tight by leaving some slack to work over.
This will prevent it from puckering. Continue working in this fashion with each color, as it
is not stated after each set of directions.
Make 2 green bobbins to use on the yellow and pink portion (see picture). Work from the
skein with the other portion of the green.
Make 1 red bobbin approximately 66” to use for the ornament portion. Work from the red
skein for the sleeve. (When making bobbins I like to use approximately 2.5” of yarn for each stitch, I
add tail amounts as well as the amounts used when pulling it across the stitches.)
The yellow and pink portions
represent bobbin placement.
5
© 2021 Jennifer’s Stitched Up
Fits most. For all sizes use a 4.5mm hook for brim.
With brim color and 4.5mm hook ch 9,
R1: sc in 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, ch1, turn (8)
R2: sc, sc in BLO next 6, sc, ch1, turn (8)
R3-60: repeat row 2 (8)
Align the brim and slst into front loop only in side nearest you and into the back loop only
on the other side to seam shut. Flip the brim right side out to hide the seam.
Adjustments can be made here. Try the brim on to check fit. If you need to take out rows or
add rows this will change the directions up a bit. The end goal is to have the graph stitch
count needed before working the hat design.
Switch to hook size needed for hat. 5.5mm medium, 6mm large, 6.5mm x-large.
R61: * Sc next 9, scinc* around the brim (66) Backwards join.
Fits most. For all sizes use a 4.5mm hook for brim.
With brim color and 4.5mm hook ch 9,
R1: slst in bb of 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, ch1, turn. (8)
R2: slst blo across, ch1, turn in each row to desired length. (8) (13” for child, 14” for teen-
adult, 15” for large adult.)
I use 14 inches for myself. This style brim is very stretchy.
R3: Align the brim and slst into front loop only in side nearest you and into the back loop
only on the other side to seam shut. Flip the brim right side out to hide the seam.
Switch to hook size needed for hat. 5.5mm medium, 6mm large, 6.5mm x-large.
R4: Sc around the brim, attempting to get to 66sts before you start the graph. (I usually
sc next 2, scinc.) Backwards join, ch1. (66) The end goal is to get the stitch count needed for
the graph. You can count your rows and figure out how many increases you will need to add,
then make them accordingly. If you did not get the amount of stitches needed, this design
allows you to easily add increases to the next round to obtain the 66 stitches used.
6
© 2021 Jennifer’s Stitched Up
small I/9 (5.5mm)
medium-large J/10 (6mm)
x-large K/10.5 (6.5mm)
Continue with hook needed for hat size you are making.
Make color changes along with the graph.
Crochet the wcs, using loose tension throughout.
Backwards join each round or work continuously using a stitch marker.
You will use your bobbins at each place needed and crochet along with the graph for this
pattern.
R1-21: With hat colors *wcs* around. (66)
Start of decreasing rounds Friendly reminder, keep the decreases loose. It is easy to
tighten tension while decreasing.
R22: *wcs next 4, wcsdec* around. (55)
R23: *wcs* around. (55)
R24: *wcs next 3, wcsdec* around. (44)
R25: *wcs* around. (44)
R26: *wcs next 2, wcsdec* around. (33)
R27: *wcs around. (33)
R28: *wcs, wcsdec* around. (22)
R29: *wcs* around. (22)
R30: *wcsdec* around. (11) FO, leaving a tail. Cinch and sew closed.
7
© 2021 Jennifer’s Stitched Up
11 30 30 11
29 29
22 28 28 22
27 27
33 26 26 33
25 25
44 24 24 44
23 23
55 22 22 55
21 21
20 20
19 19
18 18
17 17
16 16
15 15
14 14
13 13
12 12
11 11
10 10
9 9
8 8
7 7
6 6
5 5
4 4
3 3
2 2
1 1
46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21
21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46
The pink and yellow represent green bobbin placement.
Decrease rounds are highlighted in yellow.
The stitch count of the decrease rounds are next to the highlights.
Follow the graph from either left or right side.
Rounds are numbered on the left and right of the graph.
Stitches are numbered at the bottom of the graph.
8
© 2021 Jennifer’s Stitched Up
Inside of hat shown below. When hiding tails, pull the green back through to
secure it then pull it out the front a st over from the edge of the finger tips. The
piece should come out before the last stitch of the fingertip and lay over it.
Flip right side out and split the green. Fuzz up to shape and snip off where you
like the length to stay at.
Sew a darker green at a curve for the pointer finger and across the stitches
indicated on the graph or above picture for the other fingers. Sew the darker
green down the pointer finger and thumb towards the ornament.
With a sparkle grey, sew on the line to the ornament.
Hide all tails.
9
© 2021 Jennifer’s Stitched Up