THE KEY TEST REQUIREMENTS AND

THEIR DESCRIPTION ARE GIVEN BELOW

Key test requirements Description

Chrome content ISO 5398-1:2007 (IULTCS/IUC 8) describes a method to determine the

chromium content of an aqueous solution obtained from a piece of
leather. This is done through iodometric titration and is applied to
chromium-tanned leathers which are expected to have chromic
oxide contents in excess of 0.3 %.
ISO 5398-2:2009 describes a method to determine chromium content
by colorimetric means. It is applied to leather expected to have
chromic oxide content in excess of 0.05 %. It also allows for an
analysis of the total chromium content in leather, as it is not
compound-specific or specific to its oxidation state. The rechroming
of tanned leather is performed based on the chrome content in
tanned leather.
Shrinkage temperature The shrinkage temperature test is conducted to determine the
temperature at which a thoroughly wetted piece of leather
experiences shrinkage. In this test, shrinkage occurs as a result of
the hydrothermal denaturation of the collagen protein molecules
which make up the fibre structure of the leather. The shrinkage
temperature of leather is influenced by many different factors, most
of which affect the number and nature of crosslinking interactions
between adjacent polypeptide chains of the collagen protein
molecules. The value of the shrinkage temperature of leather is
commonly used as an indicator of the type of tannage or the degree
of tannage, or both, of that particular leather. ISO 3380:2015
(IULTCS/IUP 16) specifies a method to determine of the shrinkage
temperature of leather up to 100 °C. It is applicable to all types of
leather.
Tensile strength and Leather is subject to a variety of physical and mechanical forces
elongation during manufacturing. As such tensile strength is a basic and key
test for all kinds of leather. ISO 3376:2011 (IULTCS/IUP 6) describes a
method to measure leather tensile strength by subjecting it to a
stress load at a fixed rate until it breaks. The tensile strength is
expressed as Newtons per square millimetre (N/mm2), N/cm2 or
kilograms of force per square centimetre (kgf/cm2). Elongation is also
a key test for footwear as the leather is subjected to repeated pulling
during shoe lacing. Elongation at break is measured as the

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 Key test requirements Description

percentage of change in the length of a piece of leather at its

breaking load.
Tear strength The tear strength of leather is a very important physical
characteristic for all types of upper leather. ISO 2417:2002
(IULTCS/IUP 7) describes a method to measure the tear strength of
leather. The sample is cut and slipped over the upturned ends of a
pair of holders attached to the jaws of a tensile tester. The load
exerted during the separation of the holders is recorded and the
highest load is taken as tearing load. The tear strength is expressed
in terms of N/mm, N/cm or kgf/cm. The tear strength value of leather
provides reliable information to leather product manufacturers with
regard to potential reinforcing requirements during the manufacture
of leather articles.
Durability/Ball Burst This test, which assesses resistance to grain cracking during the
Test shoemaking process, is specifically intended for use with footwear
upper leather. ISO 3379:2015 (IULTCS/IUP 9) describes a method to
measure the grain cracking resistance of leather, which is performed
using a lastometer. The distension at grain cracking is expressed in
millimetres (mm).
Flexing endurance This test is performed to check the flexing endurance and surface
finish of light leather( <1.8 mm thickness). ISO 5402-
1:2011(IULTCS/IUP 20) describes a method to measure the flexing
endurance of leather, using a machine known as as “Bally
Flexometer”. Flexing endurance tests may be performed on wet
samples, either in standard climatic conditions or in cold conditions.
The sample is folded and clamped at each end to maintain it in a
folded position on a machine (the Bally Flexometer) designed to flex
it. One clamp remains fixed in place while the other moves
backwards and forwards, causing the fold in the test piece to run
alongside it. The test piece is examined periodically to assess the
finish and grain damage.
Water vapour These tests are performed to evaluate the comfort and hygienic
absorption and properties of leather. ISO 14268:2012(IULTCS/ IUP 15) describes a
permeability method to measure the water vapour permeability of leather, while
IUP 42 (ISO 17299:2002) describes a method to measure its water
vapour absorption. These tests are primarily conducted for lining
and upper leathers.
Water absorption Water absorption behaviour of leather is evaluated through static
method ISO 2417:2002 (IULTCS/IUP 7). This method measures the
absorption of water by volume or weight. Also dynamic methods (ISO
5403-1:2011 /IUP 10) of water resistance test for flexible leather and
dynamic method waterproofness (ISO 5404:2011(IULTCS/IUP 11) for
boot and shoe sole leather.
Rub fastness This test is performed to check the fastness properties of leather
IUF 450 finish against rubbing, using a machine called a “Veslic Tester”. ISO
11640:2012 (IULTCS/IUF 450) describes a method to determine the
behaviour of leather upon rubbing with wool felt. The leather sample
is attached to the machine and rubbed with pieces of standard white
or coloured wool felt under a given pressure with a given number of
forward and backward motions. During the test, the felt may become
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 Key test requirements Description

more or less coloured through the transfer of colour substances from

the leather, such as finish, pigment, dyestuff and surface colour. The
change in colour of the leather and felt are then assessed through
grey scales. This test can be done on dry leather with either dry or
wet felt, or on wet leather with dry felt. The felt may be wetted with
demineralized water or with an artificial sweat solution.
Light fastness This test, described by (ISO 105-B01:2014) and ISO 105-B02:2014 /
(IUF 401 and 402), is performed to assess the levels at which the
surface colour of a piece of leather will fade upon exposure to
daylight or artificial light under a Xenon Lamp. The changes in the
colouring are assessed using grey scales or standard wool cloths.
Finish Adhesion This test is performed to check the adhesion of the finish layer to a
piece of leather, or to check the adhesion between two adjacent
layers of finish. ISO 11644:2009 (IULTCS/ IUF 470) describes a
method to measure the finish adhesion of leather. It is valid for all
leathers, but particularly used for heavily corrected grain leather
which has a multicoated finish layer susceptible to separate from the
base leather during use. The test is performed by sticking the finish
side of a leather sample to a hard PVC or SS metal carrier by means
of a solvent-free adhesive. The load required to pull the finish away
from the leather specimen is the adhesion and is expressed in
N/10mm. This is very important test for furniture and automotive
upholstery.
Fogging This test is important for automotive upholstery leather. High surface
Characteristics and interior temperatures cause the leather materials used in
automotive interiors to release volatile and semi-volatile organic
compounds (VOC and SVOC) at an accelerated rate. The SVOCs
then condense onto the cooler surface of the windshield, potentially
creating a visibility and safety problem for the driver. ISO 17071: DIN
EN 14288 describes a method to measure the fogging characteristics
of upholstery leather using reflectometric and gravimetric methods.
The fog characteristics standard requirements are usually specified
by OEMs.
Taber Abrasion This test, the method for which is described by ISO 17076-1:2012
Resistance (IULTCS/IUP 48-1), is performed to evaluate the abrasion resistance
of the finish coat of automotive upholstery leather. The instrument
used for this test is called a “Taber Abraser”. It involves mounting a
flat circular leather sample on a vertical axis and rotating it at a fixed
speed. Two taber abrasive wheels, which are applied at a specific
pressure, are lowered onto the sample’s surface. The abrasion is
produced through contact between the test leather’s finish film
against the sliding rotation of the two abrasive wheels. As the
sample rotates, the wheels are driven in opposite directions around a
horizontal axis displaced tangentially from the sample’s axis. After a
specific cycle of abrasion, the sample is assessed for damage.
Flame Resistance Flame resistance is an important test for automotive upholstery
leather. Safety regulations in the auto industry require that leather be
flame resistant. The most common method to measure this is the so-
called “horizontal test method” described by ISO 17074:2006
(IULTCS/IUP 47). The flame is positioned on one of the surfaces of the
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Key test requirements Description

leather for a certain number of seconds, until a hole appears.

Afterwards, the size of the leather specimen remaining after the last
ember has died down is measured.

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