12

Chapter-2: Yarn Irregularity

2.1 Yarn Irregularity

Yarn Irregularity means mass variation is dominated irregularity.
Irregularity: It means lacked uniformity in respect to-
 Mass per unity length
 Length
 Diameter
 Hairiness
 Strength
 Twist
 Color

2.2 Methods of measuring irregularity

There are two methods of measuring irregularity:
a) U% (unevenness percentage)
b) CV% (co-efficient of variation)

Relationship between U% and CV%:

a) CV% = 1.25 X U% for normal distribution
b) CV% > 1.25 X U% for asymmetric distribution
c) CV% < 1.25 X U% for periodic variation.

(a) (b) (c)

Why CV% = 0 cannot be achieved?

Any quality depends on three main factor as follows: man, machine and material. If we use proper
man power and machine but for the material end product quality varies 40-60%, so though we
use proper machine and man power we cannot achieve 100% perfect yarn.
CV% = 0 cannot be achieved because:
1) Natural fibers have some widthwise variation
2) Not same number of fibers per cross-section

2.3 Limit Irregularity

Theoretical value of minimum irregularity when fixed fineness yarn is produced from fixed

Tex-311 Textile Testing and Quality Control-II, Part A

Fahmida-E-Karim
Lecturer, Dept. of TE, AUST
 13

fineness fibers. Simply the theoretically value of minimum irregularity that cannot be avoided in
any case is known as limit irregularity.
100 𝑇𝑦
For Cotton, Viscose: CV = , n= here, T and T = Tex value of yarn and fiber
lim y F
√𝑛 𝑇𝐹
100
For wool: CVlim = √1 + 0.0004 𝐶𝑉2 here, CVd = Diameter variation of wool
√𝑛 𝑑

√(𝐶𝑉𝑙𝑖𝑚𝑥 𝑇1)2+(𝐶𝑉𝑙𝑖𝑚𝑥 𝑇2)2+⋯𝑛

For blended material: CV lim = Mic to Tex
𝑇𝐺
Ne to tex

2.4 Types of variation Irregularity

1) Periodic Variation: When faults of same length are repeated after a certain fixed distance is
called periodic of variation. Periodic variation may occur due to defective rollers, defective
aprons and eccentric motion. It is of 3 types-
a) Short term : 1-10 times of fiber length
b) Medium term : 10-100 times of fiber length
c) Long term : 100-1000 times of fiber length

Fig 2.4: Periodic variation

Usually ‘wavelength’ and ‘amplitude’ are used to describe the periodic variation. Wavelength
is the distance from one peak of the wave to the next on the same side of the mean line.
Amplitude is a measure of the size of the deviation from the mean level.
Reasons for Periodic Variation:
1. Defective rollers
2. Defective aprons
3. Eccentric motion

2) Random Variation: The variations which occur randomly or without any definite order is
called Random Variation.

Fig 2.4: Random variation

Tex-311 Textile Testing and Quality Control-II, Part A

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Lecturer, Dept. of TE, AUST
 14

If a yarn was cut into one-inch lengths and the weight of each consecutive length is determined
and then the weights are plotted in a graph against the lengths.
When the plotted points are joined to form a graph. It represents an irregularity interface. A mean
line is drawn to indicate the average value of the weight of the one-inch lengths of yarn. Thus, the
deviation of each value from the mean can be observed. If the deviations from the mean are
random in nature and no definite order of variation is called ‘random variation (As shown in the
figure).

2.5 Importance of Yarn Evenness

1. Irregularity can adversely affect many of the properties of textile materials. The most
obvious consequence of yarn unevenness is the variation of strength along the yarn.
Thus, an irregular yarn will tend to break more easily during spinning, winding,
weaving, knitting, or any other process where stress is applied.
2. A second quality-related effect of uneven yarn is the presence of visible faults on the
surface of fabrics.
3. Twist tends to be higher at thin places in a yarn. Thus, at such locations, the
penetration of a dye or finish is likely to be lower than at the thick regions of lower
twist. In consequence, the thicker yarn region will tend to be deeper in shade than the
thinner ones.
4. Other fabric properties, such as abrasion or pill-resistance, soil retention, drape,
absorbency, reflectance, or luster, may also be directly influenced by yarn evenness.

2.6 Formula for Math

100 𝑇
1. Limit Irregularity (CV )= , Where, n = , T and T = Tex value of yarn and fiber
limit y F
√𝑛 𝑇𝐹
Actual irregularity (𝐶𝑉𝑎𝑐𝑡𝑢𝑎𝑙)
2. Irregularity index / Index of Irregularity, I =
limit irregularity (𝐶𝑉𝑙𝑖𝑚𝑖𝑡)

√(𝐶𝑉𝑙𝑖𝑚𝑥 𝑇1)2+(𝐶𝑉𝑙𝑖𝑚𝑥 𝑇2)2+⋯𝑛

3. CVlim (For blend yarn) =
𝑇𝐺
100
4. For wool: CVlim = √1 + 0.0004 𝐶𝑉2 here, CVd = Diameter variation of wool
√𝑛 𝑑

5. Irregularity Added:

Output Irregularity2 = Feed irregularity2 + Added Irregularity2

CVoutput = √𝐶𝑉2 + 𝐶𝑉2

𝑓𝑒𝑒𝑑 𝑎𝑑𝑑𝑒𝑑

Tex-311 Textile Testing and Quality Control-II, Part A

Fahmida-E-Karim
Lecturer, Dept. of TE, AUST
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2.7 Math Problems

Problem 1: If CVactual = 14.2% of cotton yarn and the yarn and fiber fineness is 16 and 0.28 tex
respectively. Calculate Irregularity Index.
Solution:
100 100
Here, CVlim = = = 13.228%
√𝑛 16
√
0.28

𝐶𝑉𝑎𝑐𝑡𝑢𝑎𝑙
Irregularity index, I =
𝐶𝑉𝑙𝑖𝑚𝑖𝑡

14.2%
=
13.228%

= 1.073 (Ans.)

Problem 2: A CVC (65:35) blended yarn of 30 tex is produced from cotton fiber of 0.02 tex and
polyester fiber of 0.024 tex. Find the limit irregularity for that yarn.
Solution:
𝑇𝑦 × 𝑃𝑐 30 × 65
Here, T = T = = = 19.5 tex (For Cotton)
1 C
100 100
𝑇𝑦 × 𝑃𝑝 30 × 35
T =T = = = 10.5 tex (For Polyester)
2 P
100 100
100 100
For Cotton, CVlim1 = = = 2.582%
√𝑛 30
√
0.02

100 100
For Polyester, CVlim2 = = = 2.83%
√𝑛 30
√
0.024

√(𝐶𝑉𝑙𝑖𝑚1𝑥 𝑇1)2+(𝐶𝑉𝑙𝑖𝑚2𝑥 𝑇2)2

For Blended material: CVlim =
𝑇𝐺

√(2.582𝑥19.5)2+(2.83𝑥10.5)2
=
30

= 1.95% (Ans.)

Problem 3: A cotton yarn, Nec 6, has a measured irregularity of 9.3%. The fiber fineness is
4.5μg/inch. The limiting irregularity and the index of irregularity are to be determined.
Solution: Try Yourself

2.8 Methods of Measuring Irregularity

1) Visual method
a. Black boards, drums
b. Photographic devices

Tex-311 Textile Testing and Quality Control-II, Part A

Fahmida-E-Karim
Lecturer, Dept. of TE, AUST
 16

2) Cutting and weighting method

a. Lap scale, Lap meter
b. Count variation at shortcut length
3) Variation of thickness under compression
a. WIRA Roving levelness tester
b. LINRA roller diameter tester
4) Electronic capacitance tester
a. Fielder walker evenness tester
b. USTER Evenness tester
5) Photodectric tester
a. WIRA photo electric tester
b. LINRA Tester
6) Miscellaneous method
a. Air flow method
b. Hg displacement method

2.9 Electronic Capacitance Tester

- At first the tester is started and textile materials (Sliver / Roving/ Yarn) is passed between
the capacitor plates.
- A high voltage magnetic field
creates in between the capacitor
plates after the starting of the
tester.
- It (tester) responds with the
changing in mass per unit length
variation.
- Variation in mass per unit length is shown in screen as “Electric Output Signal”. This signal is
analogue.
- Analogue signal is converted into digital signal (by means of numerical value) through
“Transducer”.
- A printer is additionally attached with it to print the test report.
Magnetic field depends on:
1. Amount of change
2. Distance between capacitor
3. Medium

2.10 Factors to be considered for Electronic Capacitor Tester

1) Thickness of the material
Thickness of the material should be 40% or less than the distance between two capacitor
plates because of vibration of the testing materials at higher speed. So finer testing
material requires less distance than testing material.

Tex-311 Textile Testing and Quality Control-II, Part A

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Lecturer, Dept. of TE, AUST
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2) Length of the capacitor plates

Length of the capacitor plates should be as small as possible to measure the variation over
short length. In USTER Tester, it is 8-20 mm
3) Shape of the material
Shape of the material should be uniform at lengthwise otherwise capacitance can be
altered.
4) Moisture content
It must be same at the whole testing duration. Increasing the amount of moisture content
can alter the capacitance.

2.11 Advantages & disadvantages of Electronic Capacitance Method

Advantages:
1. High speed testing method (400 m/min, 800 m/min)
2. Both yarn U% and CV% can be calculated.

Disadvantages:
1. It is an indirect method of testing,
2. Other factors such as wastages, moisture etc. can affect the test results

2.12 Photo Electric Tester

Fig 2.12: Photo Electric Tester

- A light source used to create monochromatic light.

- Optical systems of both convex and concave lens are used to control light.
- A photo electric sensor/cell is used to create signal which is shown by platter.
- An amplifier is also used to amplify the signal, produced at photo electric sensor/cell.
- Slit is used to pass the yarn. So, with the variation of yarn thickness, the intensity of light
is varied.
- For higher yarn diameter less light can pass through the slot and less yarn diameter
enables more light to pass through the slot.

Tex-311 Textile Testing and Quality Control-II, Part A

Fahmida-E-Karim
Lecturer, Dept. of TE, AUST
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2.13 Comparison between ECT & PET

Electric Capacitance Tester Photo Electronic Tester

Variation is measured by using magnetic field Variation is measured by light resistance

Variation of mass is measured Variation of diameter is measured
Cannot measure hairiness Can measure hairiness
Less effective to find foreign material More effective
Wet spun material cannot be used Can be used
Both for sliver, roving and yarn Only for yarn
Affected by moisture content Not affected
Result is more reliable Less reliable

2.14 Causes of Irregularity

1) Raw Materials: 40-60% irregularity depends on raw material. Good raw material means
less irregularity.
2) Technical setting: All the setting from blowroom to yarn production are called technical
setting. Better setting less irregularity.
3) Faulty machines: It causes more irregularity.
4) Wrong handling of materials and untrained workers.

2.15 Impacts of Irregularity in Subsequent Processes

1) Strength: Less strength because of thick and these places.
2) Fabric Appearance:
 Diamond bar
 Stripy fabric
 Uneven surface
3) Dyeing Fault:
 Uneven dyeing
 Shade variation

2.16 Different Measuring Slots of USTER Evenness Tester

Length of the
Measuring Slot Material
measuring field
1 Sliver 20 mm
2 Roving 12 mm

3 and 4 Yarn 8 mm

Tex-311 Textile Testing and Quality Control-II, Part A

Fahmida-E-Karim
Lecturer, Dept. of TE, AUST
 19

Information/ Result Obtained:

1. U%
2. CV%
3. +35%Thick Places
4. +50%Thick Places
5. +70%Thick Places
6. +100%Thick Places
7. -30% Thin places
8. -40% Thin places
9. -50% Thin places
10. -60% Thin places
11. +140% Neps
12. +200% Neps
13. +280% Neps
14. +400% Neps
15. Imperfection Index (IPI) ( Summation of +50%Thick Places,
16. -50% Thin places and +200% Neps)
17. Hairiness (H)
18. Standard Deviation of Hairiness (sH)
19. Relative Count
20. Actual Count
21. Deviation Rate (DR)
22. Spectrogram
23. Mass Diagram
24. Uster Statistics
25. Q95

Characteristics of Data Found (Data, needed to be inputted at Uster Evenness Tester) at

Uster Evenness Tester:
1. Sample ID
2. Operator’s Name
3. Output Material Type (carded or combed yarn)
4. Article (lot No)
5. Machine Number (Sliver, Roving, Yarn)
6. Input Material Class
7. Input Material Count
8. Nominal count
9. Fiber- 1
10. Fiber- 2
11. Fiber- 3
Tex-311 Textile Testing and Quality Control-II, Part A
Fahmida-E-Karim
Lecturer, Dept. of TE, AUST
 20

2.17 Yarn faults classification

There are two type of yarn faults as listed below:
1) Frequently occurring faults:
These are faults counted per 1000 m of yarn. Yarns spun from staple fibres contain
imperfections, which can be subdivided into three groups:
a) Thick places: +50% If the counter is actuated, the mass per unit length (cross
section) at the thick place is 150% or more of yarn mean value. (Ranges: +100%,
+70%, +50%, +35%)
b) Thin places: -50% only 50% of yarn mean value or less. (Ranges: -60%, -50%, -
40%, -30%)
c) Neps: +200% The thick place based on 1 mm length, is 300% of the yarn mean
value or more. Length shorter than 4 mm (however refers as a reference length of
1 mm) (Ranges: +400%, +280%, +200%, +140%)

2) Seldom occurring faults:

These are the thick and thin places in yam which occur so rarely that spotting them would
require testing at least 100,000 m of yarn. These faults may be classified further into the
following types:
a. Short thick places.
b. Long thick places.
c. Long thin places.

2.18 Variance length Curve (VLC)

The variance-length curve of a yarn can also be determined by a manual testing method. For this
purpose, the yarn is cut into pieces of a defined cut length. The longer the yarn pieces, the smaller
is the variation between the individual yarn pieces.
1. It is used to show the relationship between cut length and corresponding CV%.
2. Cut length at X axis and CV% at Y axis.
3. A normal trend is that CV% decreases with the increases of cut length. A regular or good
yarn shows this trend.
4. Based on this curve, we can obtain two types of variation such as short terms variation
and long-term variation.

Fig 2.18(a): Variance length Curve (VLC)

Tex-311 Textile Testing and Quality Control-II, Part A

Fahmida-E-Karim
Lecturer, Dept. of TE, AUST
 21

The red line in above figure shows a regular/ good yarn. The variance length curve of a regular/
good yarn is a straight line in a diagram with double logarithmic scales. If the yarn has long-term
mass variations, the variations of the mass between the individual yarn pieces at 1 m, 2 m, 5 m,
10 m cut length are still high and, therefore, the black line in Figure is still far away from the ideal
line.

CV

10
← Poor

Long-term

Good Yarn →
1
0.01 0.1 m 1m 10 m 100

Fig 2.18(b): Long Term Variation

- Long term variation causes Barre (horizontal stripe) effect in Knitted fabric.
- Short terms variation causes slub effect.

2.19 Spectrogram
The spectrogram indicates periodic or
nearly periodic mass variations. It shows a
significant periodic fault with a wavelength.
Spectrogram of yarn frequently have many
peaks which have to be interpreted
correctly. Several peaks in the spectrogram
do not necessarily mean that there are
several manufacturing problems. The correct interpretation of the peaks, however, can provide
detailed information where manufacturing problems exist
 It is the representation of mass variation against wave length.
 It is used to find out periodic mass variation
 To find out the source of fault/ faulty machine parts

Advantages of spectrogram irrespective mass diagram:

1. Periodic faults can easily be recognized.
2. Two or more periodic faults can easily be recognized.
3. Defective m/c parts can easily be recognized.
4. It also shows probability of occurrence.
5. It indicates manufacturing problems.
6. It shows a significant periodic fault with a nearly periodic fault between 10 and 80 m.
7. It furthermore shows a significant periodic fault with a wavelength of 1, 2 m.
8. It shows many peaks to be interpreted correctly.

Tex-311 Textile Testing and Quality Control-II, Part A

Fahmida-E-Karim
Lecturer, Dept. of TE, AUST
 22

2.20 Hairiness (H)

Hairiness is determined by the number of intersections the fiber makes with the lines marking
the zone on either side. Mathematically, hairiness is the sum of the length of the protruding fiber
in 1 cm of yarn length. It is expressed as H..
𝑆𝑢𝑚 𝑜𝑓 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ 𝑜𝑓 𝑝𝑟𝑜𝑡𝑢𝑑𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝑓𝑖𝑏𝑒𝑟 (𝑖𝑛 𝑐𝑚)
Hairiness (H) =
1 𝑐𝑚 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ 𝑜𝑓 𝑦𝑎𝑟𝑛

 Why hairiness has no unit?

 Problem Due to Hairiness:

 Decrease yarn strength
 Uneven dying
 Additional Process needed singeing, sizing
 Humidity control needed in looms heed
 New spinning machine

 What do you know by hairiness 3.5, and why it does not have any unit? Record A sec

2.21 USTER Statistics

Uster Technologies offers spinners valuable new insights into yarn quality optimization through
its unique combination of expert monitoring of market trends and comprehensive statistical
analysis.
 USTER statistics is standards for the quality of sliver, roving and yarn.
 Used to compare quality a mills produced fiber strands with the competitive mills of the
world.

Importance of USTER Statistics

1. It represents the statistical data with respect to
2. The irregularity of sliver, roving yarn
3. Frequency of frequently occurring yarn faults.
4. The hairiness of yarns
5. yarn count variation
6. Frequency of seldom occurring yarn faults
7. Elongation of yarns.

Tex-311 Textile Testing and Quality Control-II, Part A

Fahmida-E-Karim
Lecturer, Dept. of TE, AUST
 23

𝗍
CV%

→ Count

Highlights of USTER STATISTICS 2018

Uster Technologies has launched USTER STATISTICS 2018 for its customers.
 The common quality language for the textile industry is now available as an app for all
devices.
 It includes new quality characteristics, extended yarn count ranges and simply more yarn
types illustrated in nearly 4,000 graphs.
 Its data is cloud-based and therefore new data and features will be introduced to USTER
STATISTICS faster than before.
 24/7 access to the global benchmarks – with and without network connectivity – allows
flexibility and efficiency simultaneously.
 Personalization of the content view e.g. by choosing default units or the preferred
language from the extensive language selection for barrier-free communication
throughout the entire textile world.
 A built-in print function generates PDF files of selected benchmarks, for sharing digitally
or printing out as required.
 A growing FAQ area embedded in the app, available 24/7.
 Advanced interactive tables, charts, and numeric tables – as well as processing view
options –provide reliable comparisons to global markets to guarantee the requested yarn
quality.
 The unique and enlarged dataset enables objective specification and communication of
quality and therefore allows easy access to performance data.

Tex-311 Textile Testing and Quality Control-II, Part A

Fahmida-E-Karim
Lecturer, Dept. of TE, AUST