UNIT 15 THREADS AND NEEDLES Threads and Needles

Structure
15.0 Objectives
15.1 Introduction
15.2 Threads
15.3 Properties of sewing threads
15.4 Types of Threads
15.5 Needles
15.6 Hand Sewing Needle
15.7 Machine Sewing Needle
15.8 Factors Affecting the Selection of Needle
15.9 Relationship between Fabrics, Threads and Needles
15.10 Let Us Sum Up
15.11 Keywords
15.12 References and Suggested Readings
15.13 Check Your Progress – Possible Answers

15.0 OBJECTIVES
Seams are a line of stitches that connect two pieces of the material through
threads and needles. Seams and stitches have been explored in previous units.
In the garment industry, the quality of threads and needles’ quality can
significantly impact the final product. It is important to use high-quality
materials to ensure the garment is durable and can withstand wear and tear.
The current Unit will discuss the type of threads and needles and also
elaborate on the factors affecting the selection of thread and needle for
garment construction. After reading this Unit, you should be able to:
• Understand the importance of threads and needles in stitching the
garment
• Identify a different kind of thread and needle
• Analyse the use of thread and needle according to the fabric
• Understand the demand for thread and needles in the garment industry

15.1 INTRODUCTION
After spreading and cutting of the garment pieces, sewing is done. Sewing is
the process of joining two pieces of fabric by stitching. Thread and needles
are essential components of the garment industry as they are used in the
garment construction. This Unit discusses the significant features of threads
and needles in detail. Proper selection of threads and needles can affect the
final product's appearance, such as the stitching finish, thread colour, and
overall quality. 217
Apparel
Manufacturing 15.2 THREADS
Threads play a crucial role in garment construction. They are used to join
different parts of the fabric together, and the quality of the thread can greatly
impact the durability and strength of the garment. These are classified
according to their type of fibers, construction and size.

Importance of Threads:
• Strength: The thread used in garment construction must be strong
enough to withstand the wear and tear of daily use. A high-quality thread
can ensure that the seams stay intact and the garment remains durable.

• Appearance: The thread used in garment construction can also affect the
appearance of the final product. The colour, thickness, and texture of the
thread can impact the overall look of the garment, especially in areas
where the thread is visible, such as topstitching.

• Comfort: The type of thread used can also affect the comfort of the
garment. Certain types of thread, such as those made from natural fibers
like cotton or silk, can be more comfortable against the skin than
synthetic threads.
• Stitching Techniques: Different stitching techniques require different
types of thread. For example, a zigzag stitch requires a thread that can
stretch and move with the fabric, while a straight stitch requires a thread
that can provide stability and strength.

• Sewing Machine Compatibility: The type of thread used must also be

compatible with the sewing machine being used. Using the wrong type
of thread can cause thread breakage, tension issues, and other sewing
machine problems.

The selection of threads is an important factor in garment construction. Using

good quality thread which is appropriate for the fabric and stitching
technique can help ensure a well-made, durable, and attractive final product.

Source: [Link]

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15.2.1 Selection of the Threads Threads and Needles

The selection of sewing thread depends on the type of fabric being sewn and
the type of stitch being used. Some factors depend on general and specific
end uses of threads, like type of seam and stitch, sew-ability, loop strength,
type of material, elongation, shrinkage, etc, and must be considered when
selecting sewing threads.

While selecting sewing thread, some of the major considerations are as

follows:

Fiber content: Choose a thread made from the same fiber content as fabric.
For example, choose cotton thread if you are sewing cotton fabric.

Weight: Choose a thread that has the appropriate weight for the project.
Thicker threads are better for heavy fabrics, while thinner threads are better
for lighter fabrics.

Colour: Select a thread colour that compliments or matches the fabric. If

unsure what colour to choose, choose something neutral, like black, white, or
gray.

Quality: Choose a strong, high-quality thread that won't break easily. Cheap
thread can cause tension problems and break while sewing.
Nevertheless, investing in high-quality thread suitable for garment
manufacturing is a good idea.

15.3.1 Factors Affecting Sewing Threads

There are some factors that affect sewing thread’s performance and
aesthetics. Thread performance in garment can be evaluated on the basis of
its seam strength, abrasion resistance, flammability, chemical resistance and
elasticity of thread. Therefore, sewing threads must be tough enough to
withstand abrasion, stretching during wear, and needle heat during
stitching. The factors such as hue or colour, fastness of dye, selection of
stitches and formation of uniform stitches may affect the aesthetics of the
sewing thread. Sewing threads can be affected by a variety of factors such as:
Thread Type: The thread used can significantly affect the quality and
durability of the stitching. Different types of threads have different
characteristics, such as strength, elasticity, and thickness, which can affect
the appearance and performance of the final product.
Thread Size: The size of the thread can also impact the quality of the
stitching. A thread that is too thin may not be strong enough to hold the fabric
together, whereas a thread that is too thick may result in bulky and
unattractive seams.
Fabric Type: Different fabrics require different types of threads. For
example, a heavy-duty fabric such as denim may require a thicker, stronger
thread than a lightweight cotton fabric.
Sewing Machine Tension: The sewing machine's tension can affect the
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Apparel stitching quality. The stitching may be weak and prone to unraveling if the
Manufacturing
tension is too loose. If the tension is too tight, the thread may break or create
puckering in the fabric.
Needle Type and Size: The type and size of the needle used can also affect
the quality of the stitching. A needle that is too small may cause the thread to
break, while a too large needle may create holes in the fabric.
Stitch Length: The length of the stitch can also affect the quality of the
stitching. A longer stitch may be more prone to unraveling, while a shorter
stitch may create a tighter and stronger seam.
Overall, it is important to consider all of these factors while choosing and
using sewing threads to ensure the quality and durability of the final product.

15.3 PROPERTIES OF SEWING THREADS

Sewing thread is a type of yarn that is used for stitching. The properties of
sewing thread are important for determining its suitability with various
fabrics. Let's discuss about the characteristics of sewing threads.
Tensile Strength: The sewing thread must be strong enough to withstand the
stress and tension of the sewing process. It should also have good tensile
strengthto grip the seam firmly during wear and wash. Because of its high
tensile strength, the thread will not split during tension and stretch at the
seams, resulting in minimal thread breakage during stitching.
• Higher Initial Modulus: Initial modulus, also known as young
modulus. It is the measure of amount of deformation due to some stress
and stretch. The initial modulus of sewing thread guarantees the
minimum of thread deformation during stress or stretch while sewing in
the machine. The sewing thread should have firmness to form the loops
for stitch formation.
• Smooth Surface: The texture of thread can affect the appearance and
feel of the finished garment and must be chosen based on the desired
effect. Sewing thread should have a smooth surface without any
deformities, which results in a minimum of friction between the needle
and sewing thread during sewing at high speed.
• Uniform Thickness: Sewing thread with a uniform thickness provides
smooth passage of the thread through the needle and the fabric.
• Elasticity: The sewing thread should be elastic which facilitates the
thread to recover to its original length immediately after the tension of
sewing machine has been released. It should be same as the fabric being
sewn. As a result, the requirements for woven and knitted fabrics will
change, as sewing thread for knitted fabric requires more elasticity than
sewing thread for woven materials.
• Colour Fastness: The garment undergoes various processing like
dyeing and finishing. Therefore sewing thread is also exposed to
chemical and physical agents during manufacturing. It is also exposed to
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 washing agents and perspiration during the use of the garment. The Threads and Needles
colourfastness of sewing threads ensures that thread colours do not bleed
into the fabric. It should be dyed uniformly.
• Resistant to Shrinkage: This is a highly significant feature of sewing
thread. The sewing thread should be shrinkage-resistant otherwise, they
cause a critical defect in the garment in the form of puckering at the
seam line, which affects the finishing of the garment. Usually cotton
threads endure washing shrinkages while synthetic threads cause thermal
shrinkage during ironing.
• Chemical Resistance: Sewing thread may be subjected to various
chemicals during washing, bleaching, dry cleaning, etc. As a result,
sewing thread should be chemically resistant to provide adequate
strength to the garment. The properties of sewing thread are important to
achieving a successful sewing project and the appropriate thread must be
chosen based on the specific requirements of fabric and sewing method.

15.4 TYPE OF THREADS

Several types of sewing threads are available in the market, each with its
unique characteristics and intended use. Sewing threads can be classified into
three ways as
1. According to the substrate
2. According to the construction
3. According to the finishing
Classification of Sewing Threads

Substrate Construction Finishing

Spun Threads
Natural

Core Spun Threads

Synthetic Filament Threads

Embroidery Threads

Technical Threads

1. According to Substrate: Sewing threads, like natural fiber and synthetic

fibers can be classified according to the substrate used for making it.
a) Natural: Threads made with natural fibers come under this category.
• Cotton Threads are mainly used for sewing, but due to their low
strength, blended threads are used like cotton polyester sewing threads. It 221
Apparel is an all-purpose thread useful for all kinds of projects. Cotton threads
Manufacturing are used in different forms like:
a. Soft Cotton Threads: These threads are frequently bleached and
coloured before usage. Sometimes softeners may be applied to them to
make them less frictional. Because of these threads shrink when exposed
to water, they are not often used in garment stitching.
b. Mercerized Cotton Thread: These threads are finished in caustic soda
while stretching, making thread fibers round, and finished. It improves
the strength and glaze of the threads also. These are commonly used in
the production of all types of garments.
c. Glazed Cotton Thread: A surface coating is applied to the glazed
cotton thread, making it somewhat smoother and stiffer. Glazed cotton
threads have high abrasion resistance.
• Woollen Thread is used to sew blankets, heavy fabrics, and canvas.
Persian wool, tapestry wool, and crewel are also used in the stitching of
garments.
• Silk threads are frequently used for embroidery. Silk floss, twisted silk,
and stranded silk are used for the same purpose.
b) Synthetic: Synthetic threads have higher tensile strength as compared to
natural fiber. These are resistant to chemicals, abrasion, moisture, and
mildew also. Some examples of synthetic threads are as follow:
• Nylon Thread: This synthetic thread is used to sew knitted clothes and
swimming suits. Nylon threads are not commonly used due to their high
elasticity, which makes seams pucker after sewing into the fabric.
• Polyester Thread: This sewing thread is widely used for its strength and
low cost. They are strong, have good washing and colour fastness, and
have better elastic properties. It can bear up to 150oC temperature
without shrinkage, so that is used to sew any garment.
• Viscose Thread: Viscose thread has comparatively low strength and
high luster; therefore it is more commonly used as embroidery work than
sewing.

2. According to Construction: Sewing thread can be classified according

to construction techniques. Threads are made up of both spun and
filament fibers. Fibers are twisted together in the ‘S’ twist, and the single
yarns are twisted again in the ‘Z’ twist.

figure 15.1 ‘S’ and ‘Z’ Twist of Threads

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Two-ply ‘Z’ twisted threads are most commonly used to construct the Threads and Needles
garment. Threads, according to the construction, can be classified as
• Spun Threads: Small fibers, either natural or synthetic, are twisted
together to form a single spun thread. Single spun threads are then
twisted to form ply yarn (two or more single yarns twisted together)
which increases the strength of the thread.
• Core Spun Threads: Core spun threads are those where single spun
threads are wrapped around the core. Core gives more strength to the
thread. These threads are not commonly used in home-based stitching
machine it is used for high-speed industrial machines like interlock
machine.
• Filament Thread: It is made by a long continuous filament without any
twist like nylon, or polyester. It is also known as monofilament. These
threads are more stiff and strong. These are generally used for sewing
low-priced garments, upholstery garments and in sewing of fabrics for
household use. The filament thread category has different filament fibers
like a multifilament thread. Twisting two or more filaments results in
multifilament threads. These threads have high-quality abrasion
resistance.
• Embroidery Threads: These are mainly used for decorative purposes.
Silk, mercerized cotton, viscose, and polyester fibers are the main
examples of this thread. These are used for machine embroideries.

Figure. 15.2 Embroidery Threads (Silk and Rayon Thread)

• Textured Thread: Texture is applied to the filament yarn to provide

softness and bulk to the threads, then slightly twisted and set by heat to
make it permanent. These threads give high seam coverage and are
mainly used for underwear and swimwear.
3. According to Finishing: Sewing threads are finished with different
kinds of finishes to improve the sew-ability and performance of the
thread. There are some finishes that are applied to the sewing thread like
Flame Retardant Finish, Anti Static Finish and Water Repellent Finish

• Flame Retardant Finish is used to make thread resistant to flame.

These types of threads are used in protecting wear such as industrial
gloves, and military protective wear.

• Anti Static Finish is a special type of finish that gives resistance against
a static charge. These threads mainly used conductive textiles like suits 223
Apparel for electric assembly line workers.
Manufacturing
• Water Repellent Finish is a hydrophobic finish used to make water-
repellent seams in the waterproof garment.

Other threads used for various purposes include wash-away threads,

sometimes known as temporary threads. It is mainly used for checking
garment fitting or for holding embroidery paper with a fabric layer.

Check Your Progress I

Note: Use the space provided for your answer
Fill in the blanks:
1. ________________are used to join different parts of the fabric together.
2. According to the substrate, thread types are _________ and _________.
3. ____________is a single spun thread wrapped around the core.
4. ____________ is the measure of the amount of deformation due to some
stress and stretch.
5. _______________ is a hydrophobic finish used to make water-repellent
seams in the waterproof garment

15.5 NEEDLES
The needle is essential to garment creation because it pierces the cloth and
creates the stitches that hold the garment together. The sewing needle is a
long slender object which has a sharper tip. In ancient times, shards were
used as needles using plant material as thread. Traces of this survive using
awls to make eyelet holes in fabric by separating rather than cutting the
threads. It is now constructed of carbon steel wire that has been nickel or
gold plated for corrosion protection.

Importance of needles in sewing

The needles are very important in garment construction, such as

• Stitch Quality: The quality of the stitches in a garment depends on the

quality of the needle used. Good quality needle creates smooth, even
stitches that are less likely to pucker, skip or break.

• Fabric Compatibility: Different fabric requires different type of

needles. Using the wrong needle can cause damage to the fabric and
create uneven stitches. It may also cause the needle to break.

• Sewing Machine Performance: The needle also affects the performance

of the sewing machine. A dull or damaged needle can cause a machine to
jam or skip stitch. It may slow down the sewing process and potentially
damage the fabric.
• Garment Appearance: The needle size and type can also affect the
appearance of the finished garment. A large needle will create larger
stitches that can be more visible on the garment. In comparison, a
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 smaller needle will create smaller and less visible stitches. Threads and Needles

• Sewing Speed: The needle can also affect the speed at which the
garment is sewn. A thinner needle will move through the fabric more
easily, allowing for faster sewing speeds.

Hence, choosing the right needle for the fabric and replacing dull or damaged
needles to ensure the best performance and result is important.

Needle Size: The needle size is an important consideration as it can affect the
quality of stitches and the appearance of the finished garment. The needle
size is based on their length and diameter, as the length and thickness of a
needle increases, the size number decreases. The sizes of the needle are
measured by millimeters and denoted by numbers.

In addition to size, the type of needle is also important. The needles are
available in two broad categories such as hand needle and machine sewing
needle.

15.6 HAND SEWING NEEDLE

A hand-sewing needle is a small, slender, pointed tool for hand stitching. It
has an eye (hole) at one end and sharper tip at another end. After the pointed
end pierces the fabric, the hole at the non-pointed end carries thread or cord
through it. It can be used for sewing, quilting, and other types of needlework.
Hand needles are typically made of metal or stainless steel, and they come in
a variety of sizes and shapes, each designed for specific sewing task. It is
critical to use the correct needle for each type of fabric.

15.6.1. Parts of Hand Needle

Hand sewing needle has three basic elements including:

1) Point/tip: The sharp point of the needle pierces into the fabric.

2) Shaft: The slender part of the needle which gives the length to the needle
so that it can be held in hand.

3) Eye: The hole at the other edge of needle is called the eye, which carries
the thread through the fabric to form a stitch.

Figure 15.3 Parts of Hand Sewing Needle

Source: [Link]

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Apparel 15.6.2 Type of Hand Needles
Manufacturing
Several of hand-sewing needles are designed according to their specific use
(Figure 15.4). They are available in a variety of sizes within each

• Sharps: It is used for general purposes. It has a small round eye and is
available in 1-12 number of sizes. Generally, 6 to 9 size needles are used
for hand sewing.

• Crewel: It is also known as an embroidery needle. It is a long thick

needle with an oval eye to take multiple strands for embroidery.
• Milliners or straw: It is a very long thin needle with a small round eye.
It is mainly used for the tucking. The most popular size of this needle is
8 or 9.
• Quilting Needle: It is similar to as straw needle but its size is short. It
has a small round eye. It is mostly preferred for hand quilting.
• Beading: It extremely thin and long needle. Mainly used to sew beads
and sequence in the fabric. It is also prone to banding.
• Darner: It is a long, thick needle having a big eye. It is usually designed
to use wool and thick yarn on multiple layers of fabric.
• Tapestry: It is a medium-length needle with a blunt end and a long eye.
They are mainly used with wool yarn in tapestry work.
• Chenille: It looks a like tapestry needle but has a sharp end. It is used for
darning and heavy embroidery.
• Bodkin: It has a weird appearance, with a blunt end and a massive
enormous eye. It is used to sew elastic and cord into clothing.
• Self Threading Needle: This needle has double eye. The thread is
inserted through the gap in the upper eye and drawn into the eye below
the sewing.
Bodkin
Tapestry
Quilting

Darner Self Threading

Sharps Crewel Milliner’s Beading Chenille
or needle
Straw

Figure 15.4 Types of Hand Sewing Needle

15.7 MACHINE SEWING NEEDLE

The machine sewing needle is intended for use with a sewing machine. Its
flat and round sides allow them to fit properly into the machine’s needle
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holder. It has an eye (hole) at pointed end; the other end is attached to the Threads and Needles
machine at the needle clamp. It is the central feature of the sewing machine.
Depending on the fabric, different needles are used for different sewing
machines.

15.7.1 Parts of Sewing Machine Needle

A sewing machine needle consists of different parts like:

• Shank – It is a thick part that is clamped by the sewing machine's needle

holder

• Shoulder – It is the point where the thick shank tapers down to the shaft
• Shaft – It is a length suitable for driving the eye and thread through the
material and down to the bobbin.
• Groove – A cut in the front of the shaft allows the thread to lie more
closely to the needle as it passes through the fabric. It is a long groove
after the shaft and short groove after the eye.
• Scarf – It is the portion across the whole faces of the needle just above
the eye. Its purpose enables a closer setting off the hook or lopper to the
needle.
• Eye – It is the hollow space at the point which carries the thread.

• Point – It is the sharpened tip of the needle which penetrates material by

either parting the threads or cutting a hole in the fabric
• Blade: It is the longest portion of the needle from the shoulder to eye.
This part is responsible for the most friction between the needle and
fabric.

Shaft

Front view Back view

Figure. 15.5 Parts of Machine Sewing Needle
Source: [Link]

15.7.2 Types of Sewing Needle

There are many different types of sewing needles each designed for a specific
purpose. The most common types of sewing needles are:

• Universal Needles: Universal needle is a type of sewing machine needle

that is designed to be versatile and compatible with the wide range of
fabrics. It has slightly rounded tip and elongated eye which makes it
suitable for sewing both woven and knit fabrics as well as synthetic and
natural fibers. The shaft of this needle is slightly thicker than that of a
regular needle which helps to prevent the needle from breaking when
sewing through heavier fabrics.
• Ball Point Needles: These needles have a slightly round tip that allows 227
Apparel them to slide between the fibers of knit fabrics without damaging the
Manufacturing
fabric.

• Sharp Needles: These needles are deigned to work with layered fabric.
It has sharp pint and strong shaft which help to avoid bent and broken
needles. A short round threading eye also gives extra strength during
sewing.

• Denim Needles: It has a sharp point and a strong shaft that can
penetrate thick denim or canvas fabrics without breaking

• Leather Needles: These needles have a triangular- shape point that can
easily pierce through leather and other heavy materials.

• Embroidery Needles: These needles have a larger eye and a sharp pint
that makes it easier to thread embroidery floss through the needle and
into the fabric.

• Quilting Needle: These are designed with a tapered point that can easily
pass through multiple layers of fabric and batting.

• Twin Needles: Twin needles have two needle mounted on a single shaft
and are used to create parallel rows of stitching such as for hamming or
top stitching.

• Metallic Needles: It has a large eye and special coating that reduce
friction and prevent the needle from heating up when sewing with
metallic threads.

• Wing Needles: These needles have wide, flat wings on either side of the
needle that crate decorative holes in the fabric.
These are the few examples of different type of sewing needle available.
Choosing the right needle for the fabric can make a big difference in the
quality of finished product.

Embroidery Universal Ball Point Quilting Denim Sharp Twin needle

Figure 15.6: Type Machine Sewing Needle

15.7.3 Construction of Sewing Needle

The bulk of sewing machine needles are constructed of hardened steel coated
with nickel or chromium, while particular specialty needles are coated with
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titanium nitride on top of chromium. Different types of coating give Threads and Needles
hardness to the needle and make it strong and resilient to the fabric. The
following are some examples of common needle coatings:

Nickel or Chrome Plating: This coating is applied to the needle to prevent

rust and corrosion. It also makes the needle smoother, allowing it to move
through the fabric more easily and reducing the risk of skipped stitches.

Teflon Coating: Teflon is a non-stick material commonly used to coat

cooking pans. When applied to sewing machine needles, it helps to reduce
friction between the needle and the fabric, making it easier to sew through
difficult fabrics like leather, vinyl, and suede.

Titanium Nitride Coating: This coating is a thin layer of titanium nitride

applied to the needle using a high-temperature process. It provides a hard,
durable surface that is resistant to wear and tear, extending the life of the
needle. The gold-coloured finish also makes it easier to see the needle when
threading the machine.

Figure 15.7 Hardness level by the Coating

Ceramic Coating: This coating is a thin layer of ceramic material applied to

the needle using a plasma spray process. It creates a hard, smooth surface that
reduces friction and wear, making the needle last longer. It is beneficial for
sewing on tough, abrasive fabrics like denim and canvas.

Generally, the coating of a machine sewing needle plays an important role in

its performance and longevity. Choosing the right type of coating for the
fabric and thread being used can help to improve the quality of the stitching
and prevent the needle from becoming dull too quickly.

15.8 FACTORS AFFECTING THE SELECTION

OF NEEDLE
Selecting the right machine sewing needle is important to achieve high-
quality stitching and prevent damage to the fabric or machine. There are
several factors to consider when choosing a needle, such as:
229
Apparel • Type of Fabric: The type of fabric being sewn is one of the most
Manufacturing
important factors to consider when choosing a needle. Different fabrics
require different needle sizes and types.

• Thread Weight: The weight of the thread being used is also an

important factor to consider. The heavier the thread, the larger the needle
should be.

• Sewing Machine: The type of sewing machine being used can also
affect the choice of needle. Some machines require specific type of
needles, and using the wrong type can damage the machine.

• Sewing Project: The specific project being sewn can also affect the
choice of needle. For example, sewing thick layers of fabric or leather
may require a larger needle than sewing a lightweight cotton shirt.

• Personal Preference: Ultimately, personal preference can also play a

role in the needle choice. Some sewers prefer certain needles based on
their experiences and comfort levels.

15.9 RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN FABRICS,

THREADS AND NEEDLES
The relationship between fabrics, threads and needles is important in sewing
because the size and type of the thread and needle will directly affects the
performance of needle and quality of the final product.

The size of the needle should match with the weight and type of the fabric. A
needle that is too small for the fabric can result in skipped stitches or broken
threads, while a needle that is too large can leave larger holes in the fabric
and cause puckering. Puckering is a ridge wrinkle or corrugation of the fabric
or numbers of small wrinkles running across the fabric due to the tension of
the seam or stitches.

The type of needle should be chose according to the type of fabric such as
ballpoint needle are best for knitted baric because they have a slightly
rounded tip that can pass through the fibers of the fabric without damaging
the fibers of the fabric. Denim needle, have a sharp point and strong draft
that can penetrate through heavy fabrics like denim or canvas.

Puckering Hole Skipped Stitch

Figure 15.8: Defects cause by wrong selection of needle and threads

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In the other hand choosing the right thread for the project is also important. Threads and Needles
The weight and type of thread should be match the weight and type of fabric
used for sewing. The thread which is too heavy for fabric can cause the
fabric puckering while thread that is too light may not hold up to the stress of
the fabric.

Hence, choosing the right needle and thread for the fabric is very important in
achieving a successful sewing project. Matching the size and type of needle
to the fabric and its weight and the weight & type of thread will help to
ensure that stitches are even, strong and properly formed in the garment. It
will also ensure the quality of the product as well.

Intext Activity
Identify different type of sewing threads and needle and write a short note
about them.

15.10 LET US SUM UP

The garment industry is subject to the constant change in material and
advancement in machinery. Different types of fabric and machinery require
separate standards for needle and thread sizes. Therefore, it is important to
determine the correct size and properties of threads and needles. The threads,
needle and the fabric that to be sewn have a strong relationship with each
other as thickness of the fabric decides thread size. The type of fabric and
machinery decides the shape and size of the needle. It is important to
consider all the factors while choosing and using sewing threads and needles
to ensure the quality and durability of the final product. Hence, by selecting
the appropriate thread and needle for the fabric, as well as the machine,
anyone can achieve high-quality stitching and prolong the life of the sewing
machine.

15.11 KEYWORDS
Needle Size: The sizes of the needle are denoted by numbers. The size of the
needle is according to its length and thickness, as the length and thickness of
a needle increase, the size number decreases.

Young Modulus: Young’s modulus, also known as the modulus of elasticity,

is a measure of the stiffness of a solid material. It is the ratio of the stress
applied to the material to the resulting strain. In other words, it measures how
much a material will deform (strain) under a given amount of force (stress).
Shaft: The slender part of the needle which gives the length to the needle so
that it can be held in hand.

Eye: The hole at the other edge of the needle is called eye which carries the
thread through the fabric to form a stitch.
Groove: It is a cut in the front of the shaft to allow the thread to lie more
closely to the needle as it passes through the fabric. It is a long groove after
the shaft and short groove after the eye.
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Manufacturing 15.12 REFERENCES AND SUGGESTED
READINGS
• Isla, M. 2020, Different parts of sewing machine needle with functions
retrieved from [Link]
machine-needle/ on 5 December 2022.

• Saha,.S. 2020 Home Textiles, Types of Sewing Threads, Its Properties

and Classification retrieved from
[Link]
its-properties. on 1 December 2022.

• Sayed. A. Sewing Thread: Definition, Types And End Uses retrieved

from [Link]
[Link] on 1 December 2022

• Select your sewing thread, Bulletin 07, retrieved from

[Link] on 1 December 2022
• Smith,A. The sewing book, 2009, published by great Britain in 2009.
• T. Karthik, [Link], D. Gopalakrishnan (1986) Apparel
Manufacturing technology,

15.13 CHECK YOUR PROGRESS – POSSIBLE

ANSWERS
Check Your Progress I

Fill In the Blanks

1. Threads
2. Natural and Synthetic
3. Core spun
4. Young modulus
5. Water repellent finish

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