| Reference:
* 1. Technology of textile Processing by Dr. V. A. Shenai (chapter 4)
Course Title: Textile Finishing
* 2. Chemistry & Technology of fabric preparation & Finishing by Dr.
Course code: WPE 403 Charles Tomasino (chapter 13)
* [Link] of Textile Finishing by A.K. roy
Chapter 8,
Calendering
Calendering (ref 2, pg 226) Objectives/purpose of calendering
nyigar
* Calendering is a thermo-mechanical process by which hand feel and
' *-[Link] improve the fabric hand and to impart a smooth, silky touch to
eure nng
swarm
lusture of the fabric is increased by passing it nips of two or more
rollers under controlled conditions of time, temperature, pressure and the fabric.
degree of dampness. * [Link] compress the fabric and reduce its thickness.
OO gO ee * [Link] flatten the yarn.
aPith = Kormul Fapelc
Ht bb: + [Link] reduce the air permeability of the by changing its porosity.
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tihvhly es” * 5. To impart different degree of lusture to the fabric and
Cetencecad Fabric
Elfexe of Cedeedecineg + 6. To close interlacement of fabric.
Fitera 1 2 Calendared Caitan Eahrle
Main elements of calendering: Process of calendering:
¢ |.Heavy pressure
+ In calendaring, the yarns are flattened and become more oval in shape.
¢ [Link] Temperature
* 3.A suitable degree of dampness.
This causes them to spread in two dimensions [Link] up the fabric
* Pressure is applied by compressed air/ compound lever& weight/hydraulic/Pneumatic.
structure, leaving less open spaces between the yarn crossovers. In the
Generally 10-40 tonnes pressure is applied with running speed upto 60m/min. 6 tonnes for
process, the fabric becomes thinner and more lustrous.
Orn
1m wide calendar to as high as 120 tonnes for a 3m wide calendar.
* Temperature is applied by steam. Temperature in the calendar roller can be varied from
room temperature to 250°C, \ \ pattern ¢/¢
* Damping by steam is a moder system & is placed mainly in feeding to middle portion of fabric
o re nent et ns weer ene®
the modem machine, Proper damping is needed. If excess damping is done » a hard Let off c/r Taleup cfr
papery hand feel is produced unlike the silky soft hand feel of the embossed fabric,
bowl
In actual practice, the goods are damped with slightly more than the normal moisture
content.
Calendering
- Materials to be calendered:
The use of calender is an important technique in finishing of cotton, linen
rayon and silk materials. Synthetic fibres react to mechanical deformation,
but they require the presence of heat to defeat the. physical and thermal
memory of the fibres.
* Effects produces by calendering
ee is Calendering is a type of mechanical levelling and segmenting process for
‘finishing’ fabrics or webs to produce a special. effect, namely flattening,
lustre, compacting, glazing, moiré, Schreiner, smoothing, texturing and
other embossed patterns by passing in open width between two. adjacent
rollers kept under pressure.
* Reduction in fabric thickness
* Compaction of the weave structure — alteration to the fabric porosity.
* Change in the handle — softening effect, stiffening effect.
+ Change in appearance — effect on lustre.
Calender
Construction:of the Rolls (ref 2, pg 230)
«1. Pattern Rolls
* A calendar is a machine consisting of two or more massive rolls which * Pattern rolls are turned from sold steel billets. The pattern is engraved
are compressed by means of hydraulic cylinders applying pressure at onto the roll-surface and: the roll is heat treated to harden it and make
the journals. One roll is considered the pattern roll and is responsible the pattern more 230 durable. The rolls are chromed which also
increase wear resistance :and protects them from rusting on storage.
for the finished appearance of the fabric while the other roll is called a [Link] of these rolls is bored out to accommodate various heating
bowl and serves as the pressure back-up for the pattern roll and also systems. Steam, electrical heaters, natural gas and recirculating hot oil
serves to transports the fabric through the machine. systems have'been used to heat these rolls.
* Number of bowls 2-7. . ; * 2. Bowls
* Normally. no. of bowls:are 3, 5 or 7 withthe common being three. * Bowls are 2 types
® No of bowls are more for heavy or jute fabric. + [Link] bowl (1/2 inch metal wire on'‘bowl)
+ [Link] material (1/2 inch rubber or synthetic leather on bowl)
+ Metallic and compressed bowl should be placed one after another, otherwise Parameters affecting calend@ring: (ref 3, pg 24)
fabric should be cut off. However, The latest in bowl design is nylon bowls
- aone inch thick nylon shell fitted over a roll. The advantage of nylon is it
resiliency; it is more resistant to being marked than are the other surfaces. « (1) Fabric structure
One disadvantage is that temperatures are limited to less than1 3756 F, * (2) Nature of the yarn/fabric
otherwise the nylon will melt.
° 3. Crowning * (3) Finish
* When pressure is applied to the journals of both the pattern roll and the * (4) Moisture content
bowl, the rolls tend to deflect. The wider the calendar the greater will be the * (5) Roller temperature
deflection. To take care of the deflection, all bowls are crowned, i.e. the
diameter of the middle is greater than the diameter at the edges. The amount * (6) Calender speed
of deflection and therefore the amount of crown depends on the pressure per
lineal inch. Therefore it is necessary to change the crown on the bowl to * (7) Differential bowl speed
accommodate different pressures otherwise the calendaring effect will not * (8) Nip pressure
be uniform across the width of the fabric. Too little crown will cause weak
calendaring of the center as compared to the edges while too much crown * (9) Roller composition
over-calendars the center and under-calendars the edges.
Types of calendering: Swizzing calender (ref 2,pg 227/ref 3 pg 26)
* The type of calendar used depends on the type of cloth to be run
and what the desired effect is to be. There are Features: re 73. Swizzing Cakndat
1 .Swizing is a british term which denote
* Swizzing calendars,
simply running the cloth through all-the nips
* Chasing calendars, and either plaiting or batching.
* Compaction calendars. 2. Swizzing calendars usually consists of
* Embossing calendars, seven to ten bowls and are run at ambient
temperatures.
* Schreiner calendar
3. The fabric ‘runs through the nips of several: -
* Friction calendars, bowls with the same surface [Link]
The difference between them is the number of rolls and the drive result, the fabric achieves .a lustrous paper-
system, like finish depending on the number and J)
composition of the bowls.
Chasing Calenders Friction Calender
Features: \ Features:
[Link] 3-bowl m/c.
lad
meormvvernes
[Link] is similar with swizzing calendar.
[Link] bowl is made with polished iron, heated:and speed:more
2.5-7 rolls are needed and all of them
than the bottom bowl.
rotate with same speed. [Link] the name implies, friction calendars apply a friction force to
[Link] fabric is passed through the nips of the face of the fabric.
the calender, over the external rollers and [Link] is done by driving the pattern roll 1 5-2.0 times faster:than
back into the bottom nip of the calender. the support bowl. Friction is created by speed differentials ranging
from 5% to 100%
[Link] layers of fabric run through
5. It is necessary to have a strong fabric to withstand
the strains.
the nip resulting in a thready appearance [Link] produces a high degree of luster on one side and the
with soft handle. final effect is similar to ironing with-a hot iron.
[Link] is mostly done for linen fabric Effect: Highly lustrous glossy surface.
Effect: Linen appearance ) Use: share, lungi, bed sheet.
9/29/2022
Compaction Calender
Features:
1.A compaction ‘calendar has:an adjustable
gap between the’ pattern roll and ‘bowl. This
type of calendar‘is used to-make filler media
(Bs. of certain thickness.
Nip point between two roller‘[Link]
(A) (B) (C) according to design to control thickness.
Fig. 2.1 Finishing with seven bowl calender. (A) Swizzing. (B) Chasing. (C) Friction
finishing.
Embossing Calenders
Embossing effect
Features:
[Link] embossing calender usually consists of two
bowls; ©
[Link] top metal bowl is engraved with a suitable
design and the softer composition bowl has a surface
that accepts the embossing pattern.
[Link] produces a raised relief design which is
permanent on thermoplastic fibre but temporary on
cotton.
Effect: Crepe and pebble effect.
\
a
Schreiner Calender
Schreiner calender
eatures:
[Link] is a [Link] of embossing where a heated metal
roller
engraved with fine diagonal lines:comes in contact
with the fabric.
Papas eat el aa S oe 2.A silk-like appearance, especially with mercerised fabric,
is achieved by
{ i ‘ \ passing over a metal’ bow! with engraved inclined lines (i.e. angles
_4FTAP
x
with
warp or weft) of about 125-500/in. under very high pressure (about 10
tons).
3. The Schreiner roller is usually engraved with 260 lines
per inch ata
26.5 degree [Link] only:0.001 in. deep .
4. Such calenders:can be used for natural, synthetic and
blended or coated
fabrics that are both knit and woven or nonwoven. For
knits, a Schreiner
calender provides improved handle and surface texture as well
as more
over, while for woven goods:it offers more texture and drape.
Why different types of bowls and
Schreiner Calender rolls are'used_to i mpart specific
effects:to cloth in calendarin g m/C?
* There are many types of calendars,
each designed to impart specific
effects to cloth. The. composition of the
| rolls, number of passes,
[Link] cut lines ma be rounded or sharp. temp1 erature controls, moisture control ‘and pr
essure ‘can vary to fit the
[Link] cross-section of engraving is either a V-shape(high lustrous) or U- desired effect. For example, the pattern‘roll'can be-en
graved and serve
shape (Low lustrous). to emboss a [Link] pattern into the fabric. The engrav
ings
[Link] of the line 200°-260°. — can be shallow or deep depending on the desired effect. The
pattern
gives very lustrous roll can be smooth, made of steel or nylon to give the fabric a high
8.200° angle engraved line with 500 lines perinch
luster and sheen. The backing bowls can be:made from corn husks,
effect. ; ;
kraft paper, hard or soft rubber and deform to receive the pressure of
9.15-19% moisture content , 120°C-160°C temp, 3.5-5 bar pressure & 2-10 the pattern roll. In-calendaring, the yarns are flattened and become
m/min will give silk finish to cotton goods. more oval in shape. This causes them to spread in two dimensions and
Effect: Silk like appearance closes up the fabric structure, leaving less open spaces between the
_yarn crossovers. In the process, the fabric becomes thinner and more
lustrous.