Very Sharp, Very Easy, Pretty Quick The system uses an 8” mdf cylinder that is polyurethane glue (if

polyurethane glue (if you substitute regular

covered with three grades of sandpaper and a wood glue allow two days for curing). Since I
Introduction final honing area of honing compound directly didn’t have any clamps that would reach into the
Story on the mdf. It turns about 500 rpm, away from center of the base, I clamped it using 8P duplex
This article describes a home made sharpening you on top so the tool doesn’t dig in and cut the nails. I just cut a handful of the nails shorter so
system. Because it uses progressive grits of abrasive. To enable use of the same geometry they wouldn’t go all the way through. After
abrasive ending with honing compound it gives and jigs of my bench grinder, it uses a sliding letting the polyurethane cure overnight, the
Very Sharp edges. Because it is jig-based but V-block. But to let me quickly change positions duplex nails pulled out easily. It is essential that
uses a minimum of non-fussy jigs, it is Very to the next finer grit, it’s a compound sliding V- the 15” sides be cut perpendicular to the bottom
Easy to use. Because progressing to finer grits block that moves sideways as well as back and of the base and parallel with each other, else the
does not require any resetting of the jig it is forth. compound V-Block will bind, so I trimmed the
Pretty Quick. Advantages edges on my table saw. The slight loss of width
Since the system starts with relatively coarse and length isn’t important.
abrasive (I use 80 or 100 grit, but it’s your
choice) initial setting of the sharpening jig isn’t
overly fussy. Since the final grit is very fine (I
use 320 and honing compound, but again it’s
your choice) the tool will be really sharp. Since
switching grits only entails sliding the V-block
sideways with no resetting required, it’s pretty
quick. I timed how long it took to sharpen a 1”
Fig01: The skew on the right is straight off the skew. Starting from an unset V-Block (and with
bench grinder. The skew on the left has been the system rather awkwardly placed on the
ground and honed on my sharpening system. floor) it took 1 minute and 2 seconds.
The difference is actually a lot greater than I can Resharpening with the V-Block already set took
make show up in a photograph. 28 seconds.
Fig02: Spreading glue on one of the Base
It’s not possible to dish sandpaper, so you don’t
have to breathe clouds of Aluminum Oxide pieces. If you use ordinary wood glue instead of
I’ve tried many different sharpening systems;
polyurethane spread glue on both pieces. You
some bought, more home-made. Each time, in while you dress the abrasive.
can see the shortened duplex nails I’ll use for
the beginning, like Cindy, a thrice divorced It uses a simple V-Block and the same jigs you
probably already have. And when heavy clamps lying on the other piece.
woman I know (it’s her real name because she’s
not a real person); I thought this was the one. grinding or shaping is required you can go back
But after a while, some bad habits or difficulties to your bench grinder without changing the
would surface, and I’d find myself turning with geometry of your tool.
a less than sharp tool because I didn’t want to go
the trouble of setting it up to sharpen. Since it uses jigs you can get very sharp tools
after climbing a minimal learning curve.
What I got this time isn’t quite what I set out to
design. I wanted to build a wet system that Caveats
would equal or exceed the edge from a Tormek, Life always requires compromise. Maybe
but that would be able to share the jigs and Cindy needs to learn that? Anyway:
geometry of a dry bench grinder when heavy
shaping was necessary. I knew from using my Since the abrasive turns away from the edge, no
various wet/flat disk systems that using burr is built up for a scraping cut. The
successively finer sandpaper would let me get to combination of a bench grinder and the Veritas Fig03: The Base partially clamped together
a really sharp edge quicker than a Tormek, so I scraper burnisher works better. with duplex nails. I’ve tried to place them in a
first built a sandpaper covered cylinder running semi-regular pattern, but you don’t need to be
in a coolant bath. This did work. But the Since the abrasive turns away from the edge, obsessive about it.
coolant tended to loosen whatever adhesive I moderately heavy sharpening may produce a
used to attach the sandpaper…and it didn’t take feathered edge that must be removed before
much of a loose flap to make quite a mess. moving to the next grit, but you can just drag
the edge sideways through a block of wood. Next I cut two Bearing Supports, 4” x 8”, out of
It finally dawned on me that most of my tools common construction lumber. To mount the
are heat resistant High Speed Steel, and that if I The system isn’t really suitable for freehand Bearing Supports I placed them on the Base
kept the speed down there wouldn’t be much sharpening. A jig based system will always take along the 15” sides, flush with the front and
heat build-up anyway. So I got rid of the a little longer than freehand sharpening, but it’s traced them. I then drilled clearance holes for
coolant bath and extreme speed slowing jack- a lot easier to learn. three screws on each side. Next I put some glue
shaft and ended up with what I’ll describe in Building on each Bearing Support in turn, held them in
this article. Base place with clamps, and mounted them with three
To make the base I cut two rectangles of ¾” 3” wood screws.
plywood 14” x 15”. I glued them together using
 Fig04: Fastening the Bearing Supports to the
Base. The Bearing Support is temporarily Fig07: The set-up for cutting a dimple in the
clamped to the Base while screws are driven in. shaft for the tailstock. I’ve mounted the shaft in
my Four Jaw Chuck. The lathe speed is set low,
and I’ve adjusted the mounting until the shaft
runs true.

Fig09: For you jig-fans I’ve included a photo of

my set-up to drill holes in the mdf. It’s L-
shaped mdf with a rail for mounting an
adjustable stop-block. I’ve clamped a hold
down to the vertical piece (I’ve been meaning to
build a rail mounted combination stop-
block/hold-down, but…) The jig is mounted in
a cross-vise permanently mounted to my drill
press table.
Fig 05: The assembled Base and Bearing
Supports viewed from the front. I laminated the mdf disks together right on the
shaft. First I clamped the shaft vertically in a
vise so that 2 ¼” of it was below the top of the
shaft. I slid one of the 7 ¼” disks down the
shaft to the vise. I used a credit card sized piece
of cardboard to spread polyurethane glue evenly
on the second 7-¼” disk then slid it down the
shaft glue side down. I repeated this with each
of the 8-¼” disks. Then I removed the shaft
from the vise and used four clamps to clamp the
Fig08: Cutting the dimple. I’m using a metal disks together.
lathe bit held in a Stewart handle. If you don’t
have one you could use a skew if you don’t
mind dulling it. You could also use a center
punch and a tailstock mounted drill bit.
Fig06: The assembled Base and Bearing
Supports viewed from the side. Next I prepared the mdf for mounting on the
drill rod. I cut out two 7-¼” squares, and eleven
Cylinder
8 ¼” squares. I used a drill press to drill a 5/8”
To make the cylinder I started by cutting a 15”
hole in the middle of each square. I used a
long piece of 5/8” drill rod. I used a grinder to
chisel to clean up the exit holes, Then I made a
bevel the ends a bit. Then I mounted the drill
7-¼” and an 8-¼” circle template out of thin
rod in a four-jaw chuck in my lathe, checked to
cardboard and used it to trace the circle on each Fig10: The two 7-1/4” mdf disks and 8 8-1/4”
make sure it ran true at a slow speed and used a
mdf square. Last I roughed out each square to mdf disks stacked up ready for gluing.
V-shaped cutter to make a dimple for my
round on my bandsaw. The object is to get
tailstock. You could also just use a small drill,
circles with a hole right in the middle. I though
either by hand or on the lathe, just make sure
it was easier to jig up a square for drilling, but I
it’s well centered. Once the dimple is made, I
could just as easily have used a circle template
engaged the tail stock and make sure the drill
to mark the center as well as the outline, cut
rod ran true. Then I removed the drill rod from
them out on the bandsaw and then drilled them.
the lathe. Next I checked to make sure the drill
Which ever way you do it, use a hold down and
rod would fit into my pillow block bearings.
a fresh substrate to back up the mdf when
One end didn’t fit, so I returned the drill rod to
drilling to minimize tear out.
the lathe and used a file to trim it just a bit (if
you must know, I actually made things a bit
harder on myself by not doing this until the
cylinder was completed).
 Fig15: The set-up to turn the Cylinder. One
end of the shaft is held in a four jaw chuck and
the other is engaged by a live center mounted in
the tail stock. It’s heavy, so keep the speed
slow.

Fig13: The completed stack of mdf disks.

Fig11: The shaft held in a vise. I’ve adjusted it

so that the cylinder will be centered on the shaft
if the first piece is slid down to the vise.

Fig16: Rough turning the pulley area. I used

my roughing gouge with the flute up until the
disks had been rounded, then used the side of
the gouge to smooth it out. You can see how
much mdf debris is already clinging to my T-
Fig14: The Cylinder clamped together with Shirt even with the Dust Collector running. Use
four bar clamps. a dust mask.

After the glue had cured over night I mounted

the laminated cylinder on my lathe, using my
four-jaw chuck and tail stock. I used my One-
Way 1018, which didn’t have clearance for the
tool rest banjo under the cylinder, so I had to
turn half at a time. It’s not wise to inhale mdf,
so I turned on my dust collector and wore a
mask the whole time I was working on turning
the cylinder. I started by using my roughing
gouge to reduce the 7-¼” disks to round, about
7” diameter. Then I made a small cardboard
Fig12: The shaft after the first two disks have template to match the groove for the drive belt
been slid into place. by just trimming until it fit the 2” pulley
destined for the motor. I returned to the lathe Fig17: Checking that my cardboard template
and used a parting tool to cut a groove for the matches the belt groove.
belt, using the template as a guide. When I
thought it fit I double checked using the belt
itself. Then I started roughing the 8-¼” disks to
round, aiming for an 8” diameter. After I had
the right side of it done I had to remove the
cylinder from the lathe, move the banjo under
the chuck, and remount the cylinder. Then I
finished turning the cylinder.
 to spread the glue whilst turning the cylinder by
hand. Mdf absorbs a lot, so you may need to do
two coats.

Fig18: Turning the belt groove with a parting

tool. After cutting roughly to depth I frequently Fig21: Using a set of bowl calipers to check the
checked my progress with the template. diameter of the Cylinder.

Fig25: Spreading sanding disk cement on the

Cylinder. I’m spreading the glue by holding a
card in my right hand while turning the hand-
wheel with my left hand. You may be tempted
to turn the lathe on really slow. Don’t, trust me,
it makes a mess.

While my fingers were sticky I prepped some

abrasive cloth belts. The grits you choose
depend on your sharpening needs, but the series
60, 120, and 220; or 80, 180, and 320 are good
places to start. The blue zirconium oxide
abrasives are very durable for grinding metal,
Fig22: The Cylinder after the right side was but aren’t commonly available in finer grits.
Fig19: Checking that the belt fits. After all it turned and I’ve switched the tool rest banjo to Aluminum oxide is a good choice. I happened
was a homemade template. turn the left side. to have some Klingspor Gold cloth on hand so
that’s what I used. The belts tend to curl up
after being coated with glue, so I had some
weights on hand. I spread newspaper to contain
the mess, poured out some sanding disk cement,
and spread it with a piece of cardboard. Again,
two coats may be needed. Spray adhesive may
also work, but I haven’t tried it as a primary
adhesive, just used it to quickly tack back down
an errant flap.

Fig23: Testing the surface of the Cylinder for

straightness with a ruler.

Fig20: Turning the right half of the Cylinder

round.
Fig26: Spreading sanding disk cement on the
abrasive belt.

Once I the glue cured I put the abrasive belts on

the Cylinder. I had cut them a bit long, so once
they were in place I trimmed off the excess
either by tearing or using a trash pair of scissors.
Fig24: The Cylinder after turning. Compound Sliding V-Block Rail Guides
To make the Compound V-Block I started by
cutting rails and a cross piece, using
While the cylinder was still mounted on the construction lumber for all three pieces. The
lathe I masked off two inches on one end for length of the rails is optional. As I have one
honing compound. Then I applied a coat of long handled bowl gouge ground straight across,
sanding disk cement by pouring the cement on I needed fairly long rails. Mine were 1-½” x 2”
and using a credit card sized piece of cardboard x 34”. I cut the cross piece 1-1/2” x 4” x 19”. I
only needed to be able to measure the actual holes and four clearance holes in the other two
rails at this point; I assembled the Compound V- 3-5/8” x 8” pieces. I changed the distance from
Block later. the ends to 1” so that the screws wouldn’t
interfere with each other.

Fig27: The Rails and Crosspiece pieces.

Next I cut pieces for the Rail Guides out of

ordinary ¾” pine. I wanted the inner space of
the guides to be about 1/8” larger than the rails Fig29: The Rail Guide Parts.
to prevent binding. The actual dimensions you
need will need depends upon the size of your
Next I assembled the Rail Guides using some 1-
Rails and the thickness of the stock you make
1/2” #8 screws. I used clamps to temporarily
the Rail Guides from. The width of my Rails
hold the pieces in alignment while I drove in the
plus 1/8” was 1-5/8”. The height of my Rails,
screws. To mount the Rail Guides I turned the
plus two thicknesses of pine plus 1/8” was 3-
Base on its side, and aligned a Guide with the
5/8”. Using these measurements I cut 4 pieces
bottom and front edges of the Base. I dropped a
1-5/8” x 8”, and 4 pieces 3-5/8” x 8 from the ¾”
1-1/2” #8 screw into the two clearance holes and
pine.
drove it in using the tap holes for screwdriver
access. I flipped the base over and mounted the
second Rail Guide the same way. Fig31: Attaching the Rail Guide. I’ve turned
the Base on its side so the mounting screws
won’t fall out before I can get a screw driver in
them.

Fig28: To determine the height of the Rail

Guides I stacked two scrap pieces of the stock I Fig30: The assembled Rail Guides.
Fig32: The Base after the Rail Guides have
was using to make them on top of a Rail, and been mounted.
added 1/8” to the measurement.
Mounting Cylinder and Motor Mount
To mount the Cylinder I slipped the pillow
I used some homemade ½” threaded wood to block bearings on to the shaft. I adjusted the
clamp the rails in place (they look dirty in the placement of the bearings so that the bearings
pictures because they are recycled from a would be in the middle of their respective
previous project). Wood threads are great for Bearing Support, and that the Cylinder would be
this use, as they’re strong enough, but don’t dent in the middle of the Base between the Bearing
the rails. If you don’t have a wood threading set Supports. I slide the bearings back on the
you can use a coarsely threaded bolt and protect Bearing Supports so that the front edge of the
the rail with a flexible piece of sheet metal. Or Cylinder aligned with the front of the Base.
you could buy threaded nylon. Whichever Then I marked the location of mounting holes. I
method you choose, choose it now so you can removed the Cylinder from the Base, and drilled
drill the proper size tap hole. pilot holes for 5/16” x 2” lag screws. I replaced
the Cylinder and mounted it on the Base using
I drilled tap holes in two of the 3-5/8” x 8” the lag screws and washers. I tightened up the
pieces, centered widthwise, 1-1/2” from each set screws that hold the shaft in place on the
end. Next I drilled four clearance holes for the bearings and gave each bearing a shot of grease
assembly screws 3/8” from each long edge 1- just in case.
1/2” from each end in both of these pieces. I
used my wood threading tap to one of the tap
holes in each piece. Then I drilled two
clearance holes at the same location as the tap
 length and assembled it. Make sure it’s around
the cylinder when you do this. I loosened the
Motor Mount screws, put the belt in place on
both pulleys and applied moderate tension.
Then I fastened the Motor Mount in place.

Fig33: The Base after the Cylinder is mounted. Fig39: Attaching the second Rail. I’ve slid the
Rails into the Rail Guides and clamped the left
Rail in place. If you look closely you can see I
I prepped the motor by temporarily wiring it to had to drill a second set of pilot holes for the
the cord without the switch and plugged it in to mounting screws since I forgot I cut the
check that the rotation direction. The cylinder Crosspiece a little long.
must turn away from the front on top. If the
rotation is wrong, switch the wiring according to Fig36: The System from the front after
the wiring diagram supplied on the motor. If mounting the Motor.
I cut two 1-1/2” x 2” x 4” Rod Supports out of
you can’t or don’t want to rewire, you can turn construction lumber. I drilled a 5/8” hole 1”
the motor and cylinder the other way, and from the 2” edge centered widthwise. For
construct a mirror image of my Belt Guard. I convenience I cut a notch in one of the Rod
readied the cord for wiring to the switch by Supports to measure the set-back for my Vari-
removing the outer insulation from about 15” of Grind gouge grinding jig.
cord. I cut the now exposed white and black
wires about 7” from the end, striped the cut
ends, and attached spade connectors.

I cut a 10” square of ¾” plywood for the motor

mount. I cut two 4” long slots for mounting
screws starting at the front 2” from the sides. I
slipped a 2” pulley on the shaft of the motor, put
the Motor Mount towards the back of the Base
and between the Bearing Supports, and set the
motor with its back edge at the back on the
Motor Mount. I played with the position until I Fig37: The System from the side after
could align the pulley with the slot for the belt mounting the Motor.
on the Cylinder. I marked the mounting holes
for the motor, removed the Motor and Motor Assembly of Compound V-Block
Mount from the Base, and mounted the Motor. I started the assembly of the Compound V-
This time I used ¼” x 1-1/2” carriage bolts, but Block by using three 2-1/2” #10 wood screws to
for the prototype I just used wood screws. fasten the Crosspiece at a right angle to one of
Choose and drill pilot holes accordingly. the Rails. Then I inserted both Rails in the Rail Fig40: The two Rod Supports and 5/8” Rod.
Guides, and temporarily fastened the Crosspiece
to the other rail with one screw. I confirmed
that the assembly would slide in and out without I cut two 1-1/2” x 3” x 5-1/2” pieces for the
binding, and then inserted two more screws. Sliding V-Block out of construction lumber. I
glued the pieces together to make a 3” x 3” x 5-
1/2” block. After the glue dried I drilled a
41/64” hole 7/8” from the bottom and 1” from
the 5-1/2” edge. If you don’t have a 41/64”
drill, drill 5/8” and enlarge the hole a bit with a
round file. Then I cut a 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” block
from the corner opposite the hole. I cut out a V-
shaped notch from the remaining wood, then
glued the 1-1/2” block back in place.

Fig34: The Motor mounted on the Motor

Mount. I’m reusing this motor and wiring from
another project, the outer insulation is removed
from a barely adequate length from the motor.
Fig38: Attaching the first Rail to the
Once the Motor was mounted on the Motor Crosspiece. I’m using the other Rail to keep the
Mount I replaced it on the Base and secured it Crosspiece flat, and a framing square to check
with a wood screw and washer through each that the Rail is square to the Crosspiece.
slot. I temporarily tightened it in place, and
measured the belt material around the pulleys. I
removed excess belt material to get the correct
 Fig41: The Sliding V-Block after cutting a
square from the back and marking out to cut the Fig47: An alternative way to cut the hole for
V. the switch using a bandsaw.

I used #8 1-1/2” wood screws to fasten the Belt

Guard Top to the Belt Guard Side. Then I used
Fig44: Using a roughing gouge to check the the same size screws to fasten the assembled
alignment of the Sliding V-Block before Belt Guard to the Base. I pulled the wires for
mounting it permanently. the motor up through the hole for the switch,
and clipped the spade connectors on to the
switch. Be sure to pay attention to the input and
Belt Guard
output sides of the switch. Then I pushed the
To make the Belt Guard I cut a piece of ¾”
plywood 7-1/2” x 14” for the Belt Guard Side. I switch into the recess.
held it up against the side of the Base Support,
Fig42: The Sliding V-block after cutting the V. with the front edges flush, and marked where
the 5/8” shaft hit it. I drilled a 1” hole at this
point to provide clearance for the shaft. I also
drilled clearance holes on the bottom to mount
the Belt Guard Side, and clearance holes on the
top to mount the Belt Guard Top.

Next I cut a piece of ¾” pine 7” x 14” for the

Belt Guard Top. I temporarily held the Belt
Guard pieces in place and marked how far over
the Belt Guard Top should go to cover the belt
but not the abrasive on the cylinder. I cut this Fig48: The System from the side after
area out about 6” back. I again held the pieces mounting the Belt Guard.
temporarily in place and marked where I wanted
to put the switch. I wanted it close to the
Fig43: Clamping the square back onto the junction box on the motor (mostly because I was
Sliding V-block. recycling the motor and short wiring from an
older project), but not where it would interfere
with the Cylinder. I traced the bottom of the
To attach the Sliding V-Block to the Crosspiece switch on the Belt Guard Top, and cut this area
I inserted the remaining 5/8” rod into one of the out with a scroll saw.
Rod Supports. Then I slid the Sliding V-Block
onto the rod and inserted the rod into the other
Rod Support. I used a #10 3” wood screw to
temporarily fasten the notched Rod Support to
once side of the Crosspiece. Using my
roughing gouge, I adjusted the placement of the
other Rod Support until the gouge bevel rubbed Fig49: The System from the front after
the cylinder at both ends. Then I permanently mounting the Belt Guard.
fastened the Rod Supports with more wood
screws. I used a 2-1/2” instead of a 3” screw Finally I turned the system on and applied some
through the notch on one Rod Support. honing compound to the Cylinder. As a test I
sharpened my roughing gouge, marking the
bevel with a permanent marker in between grits
so I could be sure the finer grits were grinding
to the edge. It’s okay if the finer grit misses the
Fig46: The Belt Guard pieces. back edge of the bevel. You can loosen the
pillow block mounting bolts to make
corrections.
 Compound V-Block Crosspiece). Then slide
the V-Block over on the shaft and grind using
the medium abrasive, slide over again and grind
using the fine abrasive, then finally slide over
and hone with the honing compound.

Some specifics for popular tools:

Roughing Gouge and Bowl Gouge ground

straight across: Slide the Compound V-Block
out until the bevel rubs, the rotate the tool to
grind the whole edge.
Fig50: Until you get used to setting the System
you use permanent marker to check the setting
Rail Guides. In this picture, my roughing gouge
isn’t ground to the edge because the Rails are
set a little long.

Fig54: The System adjusted to sharpen a skew

Fingernail & Side Ground Gouges: Mount the

gouge in the jig of your choice. Using a jig to
set the set-back makes things a lot easier and
more repeatable. Adjust the position of the
Compound V-Block, the rotate the gouge and
jig to grind the whole edge. You may find that
the jig fouls on the Cylinder when trying to
grind an extreme side ground gouge with a
Fig51: The permanent marker is removed from bulky jig such as One-Ways Vari-grind.
the whole bevel by the rough abrasive, so the Increasing the set-back will probably solve this.
Rails are set correctly. Materials
Item Source Part Price
Fig53: The System adjusted to sharpen a Number
roughing gouge. 5/8” Pillow MSC 88039326 $26.52
Block x2
Bearings
Parting Tool: Slide the Compound V-Block to 5/8” drill MSC 06000400 $9.14
where the bevel rubs, then grind and flip over to rod
do the other side. Be sure to grind so that the Motor Grizzly G2527 $64.95
edge stays in the center of the tool and is Switch Grizzly G8992 $7.95
straight across. 2” Pulley Grizzly G5422 $5.95
Belt Grizzly G3640 $19.95
Skew: Slide the Compound V-Block so that the
Mdf Hardware
bevel rubs, then grind and flip over to do the
Store
other side. Centering the V-Block yields a skew
Fig52: As a final check of the alignment of the ¾” Hardware
with an angle that changes slightly from toe to
sliding V-Block, I reapplied permanent marker plywood Store
heel. I don’t find this to be a problem. You
after using the medium abrasive. The fine could slide the V-Block between sides to keep ¾” pine Hardware
abrasive removed the marker from most of the the angle constant like the One-Way skew jig, lumber Store
bevel and definitely all the way to edge; so the but be careful to keep the position repeatable. construction Hardware
alignment is correct. Perhaps a better solution would be a sliding lumber Store
block with two V pockets. Abrasive Hardware
Using belts Store
To sharpen a tool you simply start by sliding the Sanding
V-Block over on its shaft so that it’s in front of Disk
the coarsest grit abrasive, then slide the Cement or
Compound V-Block assembly in or out until the spray
bevel on your tool rubs while pushing back on adhesive
the V-Block somewhat. Then turn the system Honing Hardware
on and touch the tool to the abrasive. Pull it compound Store
back and make sure that it’s grinding the whole common Hardware
bevel from front to back. Putting Permanent hardware Store
Marker on the bevel may help here when you’re
Contact information:
learning how to use the system. Make any need
MSC: [Link] 1-800-645-7270
adjustments, then grind the tool on the coarsest
Grizzly: [Link], 1-800-523-4777
abrasive. Remember to push back into the V-
Me
Block all the time. If you do any heavy
David Reed Smith, a member of the Baltimore
grinding you may get a feather edge. If you do,
Area Turners, lives in Hampstead , Maryland .
remove it by dragging the edge sideways
A pre-edited version of this article, with more
through scrap wood (I use the back edge of the
pictures and perhaps alternate solutions, will be
available at [Link]. He
welcomes questions, comments and suggestions
(you wouldn’t believe how little feedback there
is) via email at David@[Link].