FORMULATION & EVALUATION OF HAIR MASK INTRODUCTION

1. INTRODUCTION

Hair is an important part of the body and a sign of our health. A hair mask can help moisturize
and repair dry or damaged hair. It can also improve the health of the scalp and strengthen the
hair. You can make these masks at home with simple ingredients, which is very beneficial. This
is especially helpful for people with thin or damaged hair. Healthy hair makes our appearance
better. While many hair masks in the market contain harmful chemicals, we have created a
natural mask without any chemicals. It's easy to make and very effective.[1]

1.1 ANATOMY OF HAIR

Hair is an external extension of the skin that grows from hair follicles. It consists of a root,
shaft, and tip. In humans, the diameter of an individual hair shaft varies from 15 to 120
micrometers, depending on the type of hair and the region of the body where the follicle is
located.
Hair is primarily composed of keratin, a cystine-containing protein that belongs to a family
of sulfur-rich proteins. Within the hair shaft, keratin forms long fibers that are tightly bound
together through the replacement of SH groups with S-S bonds and chemical cross-linking with
other proteins.
In its normal, unstretched state, hair is referred to as alpha keratin. The original structure of
the hair is maintained by the bonding found in the cortex layers. As mentioned earlier, keratin
protein starts with an alpha helix, which then builds into protofibrils, microfibrils, microfibrils,
and finally, the cortex layers. The bonds within the hair are present in every alpha helix.[2]

❖ Structure of the hair shaft

Each hair shaft is composed of three distinct types of cells: an outer cuticle that encloses a
central cortex, which may, in turn, contain a central medulla. The cuticle serves as the outer
protective layer of the hair shaft, consisting of keratin scales that form a specific protein
structure. Each cuticle cell is approximately0.5 to 1 micrometer thick and around 45
micrometers long. A typical human hair consists of six to eight layers of cuticle, which anchor
the hair shaft within the follicle and safeguard the inner fibers. However, the cuticle can be
damaged by exposure to chemicals, heat, light, or mechanical stress. The cortex, which
resembles a hollow cylinder, is composed of fine protein fibers. It consists of elongated, non-

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nucleated cells arranged longitudinally. The cortex contains a significant amount of keratin,
which is responsible for the characteristic repulsive odor when hair burns.

Melanin is the primary pigment found in hair, as well as in the eyes and skin. It plays a
crucial role in drug incorporation into hair. The simplest proposed model suggests that drugs
passively diffuse from the bloodstream into the growing hair cells. Once inside, the drug
becomes tightly bound within the hair shaft matrix through keratogenesis or by attaching to
keratin fibers. Additionally, it is believed that drug incorporation may also occur through sweat
and external adhesion.

In human hair, medullary cells constitute only a small portion of the hair mass and may
sometimes be absent, continuous, or discontinuous at the center. The medullary index refers to
the ratio of the medulla’s diameter to that of the hair shaft. In human beard hair, the medulla
exhibits a complex structure, and in certain cases, a double medulla may be observed.[2]

Figure: 1 Anatomy of Hair

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1.2 Hair Related Diseases

[1] Dandruff
Define dandruff as chronic noninflammatory scaling of the scalp. Although chronic, the
fluctuating character of dandruff has long complicated its study. Subjects initially observed to
be free of dandruff may suddenly develop it.

Clinically, dandruff is wholly noninflammatory. The absence of inflammation sets dandruff

apart from the other principal scaling conditions of the scalp, namely, seborrheic dermatitis and
psoriasis. However, inflammation is often exceedingly difficult to detect on the scalp; this is
especially true in the Negro where erythema is muted. Seborrheic dermatitis, with which
dandruff is frequently grouped, displays not only scaling, but erythema and sometimes crusting.
Some authorities regard dandruff as a mild form of seborrheic dermatitis, a view from which
we dissent. Psoriasis is often patchy and reddened with a thick silvery scale. The presence of
lesions in characteristic locations elsewhere is helpful in differentiating seborrheic dermatitis
and psoriasis from dandruff.

The scalp, as all skin, undergoes continuous horny desquamation. In its mildest form,
dandruff merges into physiologic scaling. The normal process of desquamation is necessarily
more visible on the scalp because the rate of production of horny cells is greater on the scalp
than on most parts of the body (1). Moreover, hair retains scale and renders it more visible.
Merely not washing for a week or two will create the "appearance" of dandruff in the normal
subject. However, there are significant differences between the scales of intense dandruff and
normal desquamation.[3]

Figure: 2 Dandruff

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[2] Brittle Hair

In the last ten years, several reports have described persons in whom the common feature is
brittle hair with an abnormally low sulphur content. Mental and physical retardation are
prominent but not constant features in these patients. Other variable findings include
hypoplastic nails, ichthyosiform skin changes, ocular dysplasia, frequent dental caries and
decreased fertility. An autosomal recessive inheritance pattern has been suggested in reports
involving more than one family member.

The total sulphur content of this abnormal hair is reduced to about half the usual value.
Amino acid analysis shows a notably low cystine content that parallels the low total sulphur
content. Examination of the proteins of cystine-deficient hair has shown that the high-sulphur
proteins are greatly reduced in proportion and have an abnormal amino acid composition.
Electrophoretic examination of the unfractionated abnormal hair proteins has also shown the
notably low proportion of the high-sulphur matrix proteins in case of brittle hair.

"Trichothiodystrophy" is suggested as a useful designation for this condition (in Greek,

tricho indicates hair; thio, sulfur; dys, faulty; and trophe, nourishment), because sulfur-
deficient, brittle hair is the one common feature in these persons and is the only clear-cut
biochemical abnormality so far detected. This term emphasizes the importance of hair as a
clinical marker for these patients. We do not know whether all the reports of such hair changes
describe a single metabolic disturbance with certain variable or fortuitous clinical features, or
whether they represent two or more metabolic defects with a common final pathway impairing
sulfur metabolism in keratinized structures. Disturbances in the metabolism, transport, or
utilization of sulfur containing amino acids in specific tissues, especially neuroectodermal
tissues, may be proposed speculatively to account for the various features seen in these
patients.[4]

Figure: 3 Brittle Hair

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[3] Hair Loss in Women

Hair loss in women is an increasingly frequent problem. The clinical aspects of female
pattern hair loss differ according to the origin. When the problem is typical female androgenetic
alopecia (FAGA), it starts by a specific diffuse loss of hair of the parietal or front overtical
regions (“in the crown”) maintaining the frontal hairline. The woman needs to be reassured that
the hair loss never reaches total alopecia; however, the diameter of her hair will be
progressively smaller, with the hair becoming more fine, short, and depigmented, permitting
the scalp to be seen. This process, named “rarefaction” by Erick Ludwig, means that female
alopecia starts by a uniform miniaturization of the hairs from centroparietal regions or “crown”
and reaches diffuse alopecia of oval form that is surrounded by a circular band of hair with
normal density. This band has variable dimensions in accordance with the area; in the frontal
region it is 1 cm-3 cm, in temporoparietal areas a little wider, from 4 cm to 5 cm, and in the
occipital region the area of alopecia is separated from the normal hairy occipital zone by a wide
line that is located between vertex and occipital area. FAGA differs from a completely
developed MAGA (male androgenetic alopecia), or “Hippocratic alopecia,” because it always
maintains the frontal hairline.[5]

Figure: 4 Hair Loss

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1.3 Different Formulation Used in Hair Care

[1] Hair Cleansing Shampoos
The arrangement of the hair cuticles allows self-cleaning properties of the hair fibers,
repelling by itself some dirt and greasy residues. However, with time accumulation of grease
and dirt occurs and the hair needs to be cleaned. Shampoos’ primary goal is to clean the hair
and scalp of these residues. Nowadays, it is expected that shampoos have secondary benefits
such as to prevent hair fiber damage, keep the hair aesthetically presentable, preserve its
softness, combability and shine.

These secondary functions are usually the reason to purchase a particular shampoo.
Therefore, the most significant interactions for shampoos are the ones happening near the fiber
surface and first few cuticle layers. Nonetheless, if the hair surface is damaged and the cortex
exposed, shampoos interact also with the exposed cortex.

A shampoo usually has an average of 80% water content and pH from 5 to 7 They are
typically composed of 10 to 30 ingredients; that can be grouped into cleansing agents,
conditioning agents, special care ingredients, additives, preservatives and aesthetic agents.

Surfactants, as cleaning agents, are among the most important ingredients on shampoos,
providing foaming and detergent properties. Typically, dirt is excess of sebum, produced by
scalp and dirt adsorbed to this sebum. Surfactants weaken the physicochemical adhesive force
that binds lipid residues to the hair, transfer it into the aqueous rinse, and disperse them,
avoiding redeposition on the hair fiber. Surfactants have, generally, a tail of fatty hydrocarbons
and a polar head. In contact with water, they attain the structure formation of a micelle, with
hydrophilic exterior and hydrophobic interior, where the residues are trapped and kept in a
dispersed form within the aqueous rinse. [6]

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Table: 1 Shampoo Component

Shampoo Components Function Example

Anionic Primary cleansing of the hair with Soap
improved removal of lipids
Cleaning Cationic Provide softness to the hair and Quaternary
agent improves combability. Reduce hair ammonium salts
(surfactant) Amphoteric Mild cleansers, reduce the anionics Betaines,

tendency to adsorb onto proteins amphoacetates

Non-ionic Improves hair manageability. Provide Ethoxylated
dispersing, emulsifying and fatty alcohols,
detergent properties tweens,
alkyl polyglycolides,
Conditioning agent Imparts softness and gloss, reduce Ketoconazole
flyaway and enhance disentangling
facility
Special Care ingredients Treat specific hair or scalp conditions, Selenium sulfide
such as dandruff and greasy hair,
dermatitis, seborrhea, alopecia,
psoriasis
Additives Contribute to the stability and comfort Foam stabilizers,
of the product, adjust pH and viscosity chelating agents,
viscosity builders
(gum, salt, amide)
Preservatives Reduce possible microbial Methyl paraben
contamination
Coloring agents Provide aesthetic to the shampoo, either Fragrance, colorants,
color or fragrance pearlescent or
opacifiers agents

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[2] Hair Oil

Hair oil is a cosmetic product, typically oil-based, used to improve hair condition, often to
address dryness, damage, or frizz, and enhance shine and manageability.

There are two type of hair oil are present in market.

1. Mineral Oil

2. Vegetable Oil

3. Mixture of Both of These Oil

Mineral oil is based on mineral found in nature and these minerals are beneficial for
hair and scalp. Ex. White mineral oil

Vegetable oil derived from seeds, leaves, bark and other part of plant. This oil is based
on natural ingredients which provides moisturizing and provide strength. Ex. Castor oil,
almond oil

In mix type of oil is synthetic oil which contains mineral and natural oil like almond or
amla.

➢ Application.

1. Moisture and Shine

2. Strengthening hair
3. Hydrates and reducing frizz
4. Reduces split ends
5. promoting shine
6. potentially aiding in hair growth
7. preventing hair loss
8. Protects from Heat Damage
9. Nourishes the Scalp

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[2] Hair Serum

Hair serums are liquid-based haircare products designed to address issues like dryness, split
ends, dullness and frizz. They are usually formulated with silicones and nourishing oils that
provide a protective layer over the hair fibre, which helps smooth frizz.

➢ Application.

1. Adding shine to dull hair.

2. Reducing frizz.
3. Enhancing your natural texture.
4. Keeping your hair healthy by protecting against damage.
5. Moisturizing your hair.
6. Preventing hair fall.
7. Protecting your hair from the damaging effects of the sun, pollutants, other
harmful.
8. chemicals, and heat styling tool.[8]

1.4 Hair Mask

1.4.1 Introduction to Hair Mask
Hair masks are great for keeping your hair nourished and hydrated, especially for frizzy,
dry, or damaged strands. Some of these masks even have the ability to strengthen hair and
promote better scalp health. Unlike regular shampoos or conditioners, hair masks take more
time to deeply penetrate and strengthen the hair, offering impressive results after just one
application. They can also moisturize dry hair and help preserve the vibrancy of colored hair.
Typically made with oils, butters, extracts, and other strengthening ingredients, hair masks are
designed to deeply nourish and show visible improvements with just a single use. [9]

1.4.2 Advantage & Beneficial Effect

➢ Advantage of Hair Mask

There are many benefits to using a hair mask, and the advantages vary depending on the
ingredients and your hair type. Generally speaking, the advantage of using a hair mask include
[10]

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[Link], softer hair

[Link] moisture

[Link] hair breakage and damage

[Link] frizz

5.a healthier scalp

[Link] hair

[Link] environmental and product damage

➢ Benefits of Hair Mask

1. Stimulate hair growth.

2. Cleansing Hair.

3. Remove clogging.

4. Repairs damage.

5. Cooling effect.

6. Reduce hair fall.

7. H e a l t h y scalp.

8. Conditioning [10]

1.4.3 Excipients used in Hair Mask

❖ PVP

Synonyms: PVP is called polyvinylpolypyrrolidone. I -Ethenyl-2-Pyrrolidone, Homopolymer;

Povidone polyvidone; polyvidone; polyvidone; poly(N-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone); poly (N-vinyl-
butyrolactam); poly (1-vinyl- 2-pyrrolidone); 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidinone polymer.

Chemical Structure:

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Organoleptic Characteristics: PVP is a faintly yellow solid resembling albumin.

It is soluble in water, ethanol, and chloroform and is insoluble in ether.

Category: Film Former

Use: PVP functions in cosmetic formulations as a binder, emulsion stabilizer, film

former, hair fixative, and suspending agent.[11]

❖ HPMC

Synonyms: Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose

Chemical Structure:

Organoleptic Characteristics: Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose is an odorless and

tasteless, white to slightly off-white, fibrous or granular, free-flowing powder.
Category: Thickening agent
Use: HPMC is also widely used in the cosmetics industry, primarily in hair shampoo, eye
makeup, and skin care preparations, at concentrations ranging typically from 0.1% to 5% in
product and is also used as thickening agent in the hair mask formulation.[12]

❖ Cetrimonium chloride:

Synonyms: Cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride; 1- hexadecanaminium, N,

N, N-trimethyl-, chloride; hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride; N, N, N-
trimethyl-1- hexadecanaminium chloride.

Chemical Structure:

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Organoleptic Characteristics: It's usually a clear, slightly yellowish liquid. It can also
exist as a white to pale yellowish waxy solid. It has a mild, alcohol-like smell.
Category: Conditioning & anti-microbial. [13]
Use: Cetrimonium chloride has anti-frizz, detangling, and anti-static attributes. In cosmetics
products, the ingredient’s chemical structure enables its use in formulating hair care products
like colors and hair dyes. Cetrimonium chloride is also use in hair mask with combination of
Behentrimonium Chloride. Cetrimonium chloride also helps clean the skin by curtailing
microorganisms’ growth as well as by mixing water with dirt and oil to allow for rinsing. It
bears a strong resemblance to Behentrimonium chloride, a conditioning ingredient. The
difference lies only in carbon atoms, as, due to its intrinsic lightness, it makes slight alterations
in how the conditioner feels after application to the hair [14]

❖ Propylene glycol
Synonyms: Propylene glycol; 1,2-dihydroxypropane; 2- hydroxypropanol; methyl glycol;
methylene glycol; methylethyl glycol; methylethylene glycol; monopropyl glycol.
Chemical Structure:

Organoleptic Characteristics: Colorless viscous stable hygroscopic liquid Practically

odorless.
Function as an emulsifier, stabilizer, thickener gelling agent and preservative
Category: Humectant & Solvent
Use: Propylene glycol is used in cosmetic formulations as a skin conditioning agent
(humectant or miscellaneous), viscosity decreasing agent, solvent, or fragrance ingredient.
The PPGs function primarily as skin conditioning agents, with some functioning as
solvents.[15]

❖ Behentrimonium Chloride

Synonyms: Behentrimonium Chloride

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Chemical Structure:

Organoleptic Characteristics: Respectively, was evaluated after different exposure

times in the existence and absence of the BTC corrosion inhibitor.
Category: Conditioning agent & Anti-static agent
Use: Behentrimonium chloride (BTC) is commonly used in hundreds of personal care
[16]
products as conditioning and anti-static agents.
BTC is a commonly chosen ingredient for hair care formulations, including hair masks, due
to its excellent conditioning and emulsifying properties. BTC is renowned for its exceptional
conditioning capabilities. It helps detangle the hair, improve manageability, and impart a soft,
silky texture to the hair strands. This is particularly beneficial for dry or damaged hair ends.[19]

❖ Bees Wax
Synonyms: Bees Wax
Chemical Structure:

Organoleptic Characteristics: Yellow to Yellowish Brown

Category: Emollient & Stabilizer
Use: Use in hair creams, Hair Mask, Hair conditioners. As emollient and stabilizer. [17]

Beeswax on individuals with conditions such as psoriasis, eczema, and dandruff. It

showed significant improvements [in hair health and hair growth] after two weeks [of use]. In
alignment with the findings from the study, research finds it is best to use products containing
beeswax as an ingredient rather than using the raw substance directly to the head.[20]

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❖ Olive Oil
Organoleptic Characteristics: Olive oil comes in assorted colors, from pure yellow to
golden; some types derived from unripe fruit have a faint undertone of green.

Chemical Structure:

Category: Emollient
Use: Olive oil is also use as Preservatives. And also use as Emollient in Hair Mask
formulation.[18]

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FORMULATION & EVALUATION OF HAIR MASK REVIEW OF LITERATURE

2. REVIEW OF LITERATURE
Sr Title Author Journal Publication Summary
no. Year
1 The review Poornima World journal Hair is an important part
on herbal Mishra and of 27 March of the body, It is the
hair mask for *Sashikant pharmaceutical 2022 health indicator. Hair
the Maury research mask can help moisturize
prevention of our hairs. They especially
dandruff beneficial for dry or
damaged hairs. Hair
mask may improve the
health of our scalp and
boost the strength of our
hairs. These hair masks
are also made at home, It
has no disadvantages,
And it is very
beneficial.[9]
2 Fabrication Dr. Chintan Journal Of Costal 26 April It was determined with the
and Aundhia , Life Medicine 2023 help of a pH meter and
Evaluation Ms. Dhruvi Litmus paper, 1% hair
of Herbal Rana, Ms. mask solution in distilled
Hair Mask Chitrali water was prepared and
Talele pH was determined at
room temperature 25°C.
[8]
Analysis and Ammar Multidisciplinary 3 November Cetrimonium chloride has
3 Quantificatio Abdulrahm Digital Publishing 2021 anti-frizz, detangling, and
n of Alkyl an Jairoun , Institute anti-static attributes. In
(C12-22) Sabaa Saleh cosmetics products, the
Trimethyl Al-Hemyari ingredient’s chemical
Ammonium Moyad structure enables its use in
Chloride Shahwan formulating hair care
Content in and Sa’ed products like colors and
Cosmetics: H. Zyoud hair dyes. Cetrimonium
Regulatory chloride also helps clean
Compliance the skin by curtailing
Gap Analysis microorganisms’ growth
as well as by mixing water
with dirt and oil to allow
for rinsing. It bears a
strong resemblance to
Behentrimonium chloride,
conditioning ingredient [21]

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4 In vitro study S.M Badiul Asian Journal of January- April Hair Care categories are
Alam Management well growing and
of hair mask/ Siddiqui, Sciences & 2022
hair Rahul Education consumers are always
Deshkar, keen to try better and
Conditioner Shaikh better alternatives in
containing Nasir
everyday life. There are
goodness of different segments in
natural origin category shelves for
ingredients to different usages. Now
get maximum these are segmenting
benefits further in organic, natural
origin and normal (Not
claiming such). Main
reason behind is consumer
trends as the days passes
on and on, consumers are
well educated on
naturaltrends and benefits
of these products [22]

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FORMULATION & EVALUATION OF HAIR MASK AIM & OBJECTIVE

3. AIM & OBJECTIVE

❖ Aim of Hair Mask
To Develop effective Hair Mask and Evaluation of formulation including PH, viscosity,
spreadability.

❖ Objective of Hair Mask

[Link] provide nourishment to damage & freeze hair.

[Link] improve hair texture & long effectiveness using thickening agent.

[Link] provide sustained conditioning & anti-static effect using conditioning agent & anti-static
agent.

[Link] analyze Smoothning & Moisurizing effect.

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FORMULATION & EVALUATION OF HAIR MASK METHODOLOGY

[Link]
Table: 2 Ingredients Used in Hair Mask

Sr. No. Ingredients Category % For 30 Gm

1. Hydroxypropyl Thickening agent 3.6% 1.2
Methylcellulose
2. Propylene glycol Humectant & Solvent 5.4% 1.8
3. Behentrimonium Conditioning agent & 5.4% 1.8
Chloride Anti- static agent
4. Cetrimonium chloride Conditioning & 3.6% 1.2
Anti-microbial agent
5. Olive oil Emollient 2.7% 0.9
6. Polyvinylpolypyrrolidone Film Former 4.5% 1.5
7. Bees wax Emollient & Stabilizer 6.6% 2.21
8. Methyl Paraben Preservative 1.8% 0.6
9. Distilled water Diluent 69% 23

Table: 3 Performed Various Batches Were to Prepared Desired Consistency of Hair

Mask

Sr. No. Ingredients T1 T2 T3

1 Hydroxypropyl 1.3gm 1.0gm 1.2gm
methylcellulose
2 Propylene glycol 1.6gm 1.7gm 1.8gm

3 Behentrimonium Chloride 1.5gm 1.6gm 1.8gm

4 Cetrimonium chloride 1.3gm 1.1gm 1.2gm

5 Olive oil 1.0gm 1.1gm 0.9gm

6 polyvinylpolypyrrolidone 1.6gm 1.4gm 1.5gm

7 Bees wax 2.4gm 2.2gm 2.2gm

8 Distilled water 20gm 20gm 23gm

9 Methyl Paraben 0.8gm 0.5gm 0.6gm

Total - 31.5gm 30.7gm 34.2gm

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FORMULATION & EVALUATION OF HAIR MASK METHODOLOGY

Step-1 For Water Phase

A weight the required amount of polyethylene glycol of 1.8 gm and Hydroxypropyl
methylcellulose of 1.2 gm and dissolved in required ml of water untill it can completely
dissolved

Step-2 we took 1.2 gm of Cetrimonium chloride and 1.8 gm of Behentrimonium chloride

with remaining ml of water at 70⁰C at constant temperature untill it make smooth cream like
consistancy

Step-3 For Oil phase

Mix 2.21 gm of beeswax and 0.9 gm of olive oil in another beaker and added preservative 0.6
gm of methyl paraben.

Step-4 Mix both the phases and all ingredients at high-speed agitator [23]

Figure: 5 Step-1 Figure: 6 Step-2

Figure: 7 Step-3 Figure: 8 Hair Mask

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FORMULATION & EVALUATION OF HAIR MASK EVALUATION PARAMETERS

[Link] PARAMETERS
5.1 Ph Determination
It was determined with the help of a pH meter and Litmus paper, 1% hair mask solution in
distilled water was prepared and pH was determined at room temperature 25°C.

5.2 Skin Irritancy

The Skin irritation test was evaluated using the patch test method. A small amount the
optimized formulation was applied to the hair and scalp and left for 48 hours 10. The scalp
was checked for any signs of irritation and inflammation.

Figure: 9 Skin Irritancy Test

5.3 Spreadability

To examine the spreadability of the hair mask, a wooden block and glass slide device were
employed. A precisely measured 5 g of the hair mask was positioned on the underside of the
block, followed by the placement of the movable upper slide onto the hair mask. The time
taken for the upper slide to separate 5 cm from the assembly was then recorded. The formula
was used to determine the spreadability

𝑆 =𝑚 × 𝑙
t

S is the spreadability, m is the weight attached to the upper slide, l is the distance travelled by
the upper slide, and t is the time it takes to separate the slides.

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Figure: 10 Spreadability Test

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FORMULATION & EVALUATION OF HAIR MASK HOW TO APPLY HAIR MASK

[Link] TO APPLY HAIR MASK?

Application: The container of the hair mask should be open, and a small amount of the creamy
mask should be taken and rubbed between the palms to distribute it evenly.

• Focus on Ends: The mask should be primarily applied to the ends of the hair, where it tends
to be most fragile and prone to dryness. The mask should be worked into the ends using the
fingers, gently massaging it to ensure thorough coverage.

• Treatment Time: The hair mask must penetrate and nourish the hair ends for 5–10 minutes.
For a more profound treatment, we advise wrapping the hair ends with a warm, damp towel to
enhance the mask’s absorption.

• Rinse: After the treatment period, the hair should be rinsed thoroughly with lukewarm water
to remove the mask. The hair ends will feel noticeably softer and smoother, even during rinsing.

• Frequency: For optimal results, the hair mask should be incorporated into the beauty routine
once a week or as needed, focusing on providing the hair ends with the nourishment they
deserve.[19]

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FORMULATION & EVALUATION OF HAIR MASK RESULT & DISCUSSION

[Link] & DISCUSSION

The formulation and evaluation of the hair mask were conducted through three different trials
(T1, T2, and T3) with varying concentrations of key excipients to optimize the consistency,
conditioning effect, and overall performance of the product. The optimized formulation was
Trial 3 (T3), as it demonstrated the most desirable organoleptic and functional characteristics.

Parameter Description
Appearance Smooth, creamy emulsion with uniform texture.
Color Off-white
Odor Mild, waxy or slightly fatty
Texture/Consistency Medium-thick, creamy consistency. Soft and
spreadable.
Slightly more structured due to beeswax and HPMC.
Spreadability Good spreadability
After feel Smooth, conditioning feel
pH 4.5–5.5
Rinse ability Easily rinses out with water.
Foam Non-foaming

Formulation Results
In Trial 1 (T1), the formulation showed issues with texture and application. The use of 1.3g
Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC) led to slug formation, and 1.6g
Polyvinylpolypyrrolidone (PVP) caused the formulation to harden. Although the conditioning
agents were present, the formulation lacked smoothness and hydration. Overall, this trial
produced a formulation that was slightly hard and less effective.

In Trial 2 (T2), a reduction in HPMC (1.0g) led to insufficient thickness, and although
hydration slightly improved with increased Propylene glycol (1.7g), the mask was still not
adequately moisturizing. Cetrimonium chloride and PVP levels were decreased but did not
result in the desired conditioning or film-forming properties. This resulted in a soft but
inconsistent texture, with slight slug formation still observed.

Trial 3 (T3) yielded the best results across all parameters. The optimized amounts of HPMC
(1.2g), Propylene glycol (1.8g), and conditioning agents such as Behentrimonium Chloride

C.U. SHAH COLLEGE OF PHARMACY & RESEARCH 23

FORMULATION & EVALUATION OF HAIR MASK RESULT & DISCUSSION

(1.8g) and Cetrimonium Chloride (1.2g) resulted in a smooth, creamy emulsion with uniform
texture. The increase in water content (23g) also improved spreadability and ease of
application. PVP at 1.5g contributed to adequate film formation without causing hardness.

DISCUSSION

The success of T3 can be attributed to the balanced formulation of emollients, humectants,

and conditioning agents. HPMC and beeswax provided the necessary thickness and emollient
effect, while olive oil and propylene glycol added moisture and improved texture. The
combination of Behentrimonium Chloride and Cetrimonium Chloride gave the formulation
excellent detangling and conditioning properties without making it greasy or heavy.

The pH of 4.5–5.5 ensured scalp compatibility, reducing the risk of irritation or disruption
of the scalp's natural barrier. The patch test confirmed the formulation's non-irritant nature,
and the spreadability test demonstrated ease of application, an essential characteristic for
consumer acceptance.

Overall, Trial 3 proved to be the most effective and cosmetically acceptable formulation,
achieving the desired attributes for a natural, preservative- minimized hair mask suitable for
various hair types.

C.U. SHAH COLLEGE OF PHARMACY & RESEARCH 24

FORMULATION & EVALUATION OF HAIR MASK CONCLUSION

[Link]

The present study focused on developing and evaluating a natural, safe hair mask to improve
hair health and address common issues, with Trial 3 (T3) proving the most effective due to its
smooth, creamy texture, good spreadability, hydration, conditioning effects, and non-irritating
nature. The optimized formulation exhibited an ideal pH (4.5–5.5), was easy to rinse, and
suitable for all hair types, thanks to the careful blend of emollients, humectants, conditioning
agents, and film formers. Overall, the resulting product serves as a safe, natural, and effective
alternative to chemical-based hair care options, delivering deep nourishment and enhancing
both scalp and hair health.

C.U. SHAH COLLEGE OF PHARMACY & RESEARCH 25

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