HOW TO WRITE A PROFICIENCY BADGE NOTEBOOK?

1. THE PB SHOULD BE COVERED(WHITE/BROWN)

2. THE EMBLEM OF THE PB SHOULD BE DRAWN/PASTED ON THE COVER
3. THERE SHOULD BE A BIO-DATA PAGE
4. FIRST COH GIVING YOU THE PERMISSION TO START WORKING ON THE PB
5. SYLLAUBS OF THE PB (AS PER APRO PART 2)
6. FOLLOW-UP (NOTES)
7. SECOND COH CERTIFYING THAT YOU HAVE COMPLETED THE WORK
8. PB CERTIFICATE SIGNED BY THE INDEPENDENT EXAMINER IN THE PRESCRIBED
FORMAT
( LET THE PICTURES GET PASTED ON THE LEFT SIDE PAGES OF THE PB
NOTEBOOK)

Pioneer

Name of Scout/Guide:

BIODATA
Name:
Troop:
District:
Patrol:
BADGE REQUIREMENTS
Date of Commencement:
Date of Completion:

Scout / Guide ……………………………… hasbeen given

permission to work oncompleting the requirements
(as perAPRO Part II) towards earning the…………………………………badge.

Scout Master

Syllabus(As per APRO Part II)

[Link] extra efficiency in the following
[Link] a 22.5 cm scaffolding pole of not less than12.5 cm diameter neatly and
quickly
[Link] a basic knowledge of various ropes, theirlay, size, storing and care
[Link] of Knots
[Link] figure of 8 lashing , lash a block to a spar
[Link] a model bridge, derrick or ladder
[Link] a camp kitchen, or a raft that will carryoneself
7. Build a camp shelter or hut for 3 people
[Link] the pioneering tests of Pratham Sopan andDwithiya Sopan
[Link] hot to make a block and tackle usingdouble sheave and single sheave
pulleys.

Rope Types

[Link] Rope:The natural strength and all around utilityof manila rope has
made it the standard for quality [Link] rope consists of all-natural hemp
fibers.
Positives: Visually appealing, snap-resistant,low-cost.
Negatives: Not UV or water resistant, mayharden or rot over long periods of
time.
Most Common Uses: Pulling, decoration,landscaping, rigging.
1. Nylon Rope: For superior strength and remarkablestretching capabilities,
nylon is the rope of [Link] than manila, nylon commonly finds
itselfpulling the heaviest loads and bearing the most weight.
Positives: Strong, smooth, abrasion resistant, UVresistant.
Negatives: Absorbs water, weakens in water.
Most Common Uses: Towing lines, anchor lines,pulleys, winches, tie-downs, fall-
protection systems.

Caring for Ropes

[Link] and Cleaning of Rope Details

[Link]: The life of a climbing rope depends greatly on use and damage and, to
a lesser extent, on care, cleaning, and storage.
[Link]: Climbing ropes should be washed occasionally by hand in cold water
with a mild soap, rinsed free of the soap, and then spread outor hung up to dry in
the air.
[Link]: Keep your rope off the ground to protect it from dirt that contains sharp
small chips and crystals. Use climbing rope only for climbing - not for towing a
vehicle.
[Link] Rodents: Modern fibers may have no nutritional value but they may still
be collected by mice or rats to make their home. Hang the rope away from the
ground!
[Link]: Climbing rope should be stored,preferably after drying, at room

temperature,ideally in a storage bag.

Knowledge of Knots
Knots have been around for a very long time. They even predate the ax and
wheel. In fact, some scientists maintain that the first knot wasn’t even a human
invention: apes and gorillas are more likely the first knotters.

With a history that’s a millennia old, it’s hard to put a number on how many
types of knots exist. Plus, many knots are just variations or combinations of other
knots. With that in mind, the number of knots could be infinite. But, there are
three basic types.

 Knots: Basic knots tie two ends of rope, cordage, or other flexible material
together.
 Hitches: Hitches are used to tie rope around an object, such as a pole,
stick, bumper, or other object. Users can tie a hitch to secure a bundle of
things together, as well.
 Lashings: Lashings are knots used to tie two objects together, such as
primitive shelter poles, as prehistoric ax heads, or as a simple,
temporary fence-post repair.

There also are two terms that help someone follow knot-tying directions: working
end and standing end. The working end of a knot would be the tail, or free end,
of the rope that users can manipulate to tie a knot. The standing end is the
section of rope the knot cinches down onto.

10 Essential Types of Knots

1. Square Knot
The square knot is one of the most basic and intuitive knots a DIYer can tie. It’s
just a combination of two twists, each locking the other in place. It’s ideal for
tying two pieces of rope together to create one long rope, as the two twists
create quite a bit of friction between each length when weight is applied.

Square knots also are useful for tying two or more objects together. The first
twist in the rope squeezes the objects, while the second twist creates a tight
anchor over the first twist, locking everything in place. It can be used to tie
bundles of firewood, lumber, or branches together for easier carrying.

2. Clove Hitch
The clove hitch is a very useful knot to know in a pinch, as it can be used to
anchor things in place in a truck bed, to a fence post, or to a tree. Essentially, it’s
three wraps of rope around an object, with one of the wraps creating a lot of
friction for holding the rope in place. While it can slip, the addition of an extra
overhand knot will usually keep it in place as long as there is tension on the line.

At its most practical, the clove hitch can serve as a quick way to anchor camping
tents, patio furniture, and other objects that could fly away in a windstorm.

3. Bowline
Occasionally, DIYers need a way to tie a fixed loop in the end of a rope that
cannot loosen, shrink, or expand. A bowline knot creates that loop, and it can
function as a hand or foothold. It also might work as loose lashing around a pole
or stake in the ground, such as for a tie-out for a furry friend.

This knot is most famously taught by describing a rabbit coming out of a hole,
running around a tree, and then back down into its hole. The result is a loop that
will not slip, but it’s not at all helpful for securing two lengths of rope together.
4. Sheet Bend
When tying two ropes of varying diameters together, traditional knots don’t work
well. The thicker rope can rarely create enough friction on the smaller rope to
hold it in place. For those cases, there’s simply no replacement for the classic
sheet bend knot. The thinner rope cinches down on itself, over top of the thicker
rope, creating a strong connection.

It’s also possible to use the sheet bend on other materials, such as a tarp without
grommets and sails on boats (from which this knot’s name originated). Simply
grab a handful of the material and tie a sheet bend around it. Finishing it off with
an overhand knot will ensure it doesn’t slip.

5. Two Half Hitches

Tying two half hitches is a great way to hitch a rope to a pole or tree. It’s easy
and quick to tie, but also adjustable for increasing or loosening the tension on
the line. It also can be used to hold down a tarp or large object in the bed of a
truck if the tail-end of the knot is used to create an anchor on the line.

Two half hitches are possibly the best knots for carrying items, as the weight of
the object tightens the knot. Tugging on the knot loosens it.
6. Taut Line Hitch
The taut line hitch serves many of the same purposes as two half hitches, but
with more friction on the line, it does an even better job of creating tension and
is much less likely to slip. It’s the knot of choice for tent guy lines, or any
situation where a rope needs to anchor to something that’s under tension, like in
the bed of a truck or roof of an SUV.

It’s also possible to use the taut line hitch to cinch objects together. With too
much weight and tightening, it can actually be difficult to remove the rope
afterward.

7. Fisherman’s Knot
If fishing isn’t a trade or a hobby, there aren’t many uses for the fisherman’s
knot. But, if a lot of time is spent chasing the big one, there’s no replacement for
it. The fisherman’s knot relies on creating lots and lots of friction by looping the
working end of the line around the standing end several times.

Due to the slippery nature of a fishing line, this knot tightens well without
slipping. With a traditional rope, it could create too much friction to tighten. This
is one of the only knots that work with fishing line. A modified sheet bend is used
for fly fishing.
8. Water’s Knot
Tying two pieces of webbing, strapping, or other flat materials can be challenging
as traditional knots rarely cinch down enough to create a secure hold. The
webbing also tends to bunch, creating uneven friction. Luckily, there’s an answer
in the form of a water’s knot. It’s an excellent choice for extending the reach of
a ratchet strap or other webbing materials.

A water’s knot is an effective way of securing two lengths of webbing together,

creating one long length. Basically it’s two intertwining overhand knots. When
dressed correctly, this knot distributes friction across all of the surfaces, offering
a secure hold.

9. Rolling Hitch
There are only so many effective ways of adding a rope to an already existing
rope. The most effective method is the rolling hitch. Like the taut line hitch, the
rolling hitch involves wrapping the standing end with plenty of friction. Finishing
off the working end with an overhand knot will lock it in place. The rolling hitch is
used in sailing, hauling, and dog sledders have relied on the rolling hitch to add
dogs to a sled line. It can be used to attach thinner rope to thicker rope, too.
10. Prusik Knot
The Prusik knot is a favorite of rock climbers and tree trimmers, as it’s a useful
knot while ascending or descending a fixed line during climbing. With pressure
on the knot, it cinches down on the line, but it can be manipulated by hand to
create a “brake” while descending. Without pressure on the knot, it slides up the
main rope relatively easily. It’s important to make sure the knot isn’t too small,
as it could make it too tight and difficult to move. If it’s too loose, there won’t be
enough friction and grip.

Whipping the ends of a rope

Whipping the ends of a rope. There are so many ways of whipping the ends of
rope to prevent unlaying of the strands. Two simple methods are given (see
figures). While whipping leave at least half cm. of the rope at the end and start
whipping. In both the cases after tightening cut the balance ends sharply

Round turn and two half hitches

Round turn and two half hitches is used to tie the end of a rope to an object when
there is tension on the other end of the rope e.g. To tie guyline of a tent to a peg
for flag staff construction to tie guy line rope to a peg. While tying a cloth line
second end can be tied with this knot because there is tension at the other end.
the two half hitches should be in the same direction i.e. either over the standing
part or under the standing part.

Frappings. In order to tighten the lashing (except sheer lashing mark II) turns
which will be taken over the lashing and in between poles is known as frappings.

Lashing.

Lashing. When we tie two or more poles or spars together it is known as lashing.
There are three general rules while tying lashing i.e. cut the rhythm, over the
lashing and in between poles which should not be missed (except in sheer lashing
mark II)

At the beginning of lashing after tying clove hitch the balance end should be
twisted along with standing part of the rope which should reach at least one full
round on the poles to make the lashing stronger. The turns should be parallel and
close to each other (avoid overlapping). The lashing should be neat and tight.
Ordinary turns should not be too tight, but frappings should be tight enough to
make the lashing strong. There should be no cross turns while cutting the rhythm
of the turns to make frappings.

Shear Lashing.

There are two types of shear lashing i.e Shear Lashing mark I and shear lashing
mark-II.
a) Shear Lashing Mark I. This lashing is used to make shear legs which can be
used to make improvised tents, to make a cloth line, to give support to some
objects (e.g. plantain bunch in its growing stage). The butts of the staff should be
at same height. Start with a clove hitch on one staff, take about 6 to 8 turns
according to the need (the turns should not be too tight), put two or three
frappings and finish with two half hitches on the other staff which will make a
clove hitch.
b) Shear Lashing Mark II. This is also known as parallel lashing or round
lashing which is used to make a longer pole Ex. For flag staff construction. Start
with a clove hitch on both the spars and after 6 to turns (according to the need)
end with two half hitches which will make a clove bitch on both the spars. No
frappings. If wedges are inserted inside the lashing as shown in the figure the
lashing will be more tight. Start the lashing from the end and proceed to inside
(see figure).

Camp Kitchen

Camp Shelter

A list of facilities:
!BE CAREFUL! You should make sure that what you have chosen to build will not be too difficult in
comparison to the time you have, the quantity of wood and the space you can occupy.

i. The tent for food storage

>It will only be used for that purpose

>It is high enough for you to stand inside
>Prepare plastic storage boxes in order to store clean dixies.
>No food should be put directly on the floor : trunks, plastic boxes, crates have to be set above the ground
on logs, bricks, pallets...
>All fresh products should be carried in a coolbox or a coolbag. They will be stored in a refrigerator or
prepared within the 2 hours that follow.
>Do not strore cleaning products (whatever they are) and food together.
>Leftovers will be thrown away : bits of bread, milk, opened biscuits…
>However basic products such as flour, sugar and oil will be carefully stored in airtight boxes or food bags.

2° The elevated firepit

 4 wooden poles 5’ tall and 3 to 6" in diameter

 2 logs about 2’ tall and 3 to 6" in diameter
 Wood for a wicker rack (3 to 4" in diameter)
 Preferably some clayish mud
 A few stones

>The firepit will be 2’ above the ground

>If you choose to enlarge the table you will be able to put some billycans on the side as you cook.
>The firepit should be large enough to make 2 fires. You can build a counter next to it.
>Put a tincan with glycerin soap and a paintbrush : if you put soap on your billycans before you put them in
the fire they will be easier to clean !

3° The counter

>At home, you never cook directly on the floor, while you are camping you should do the same : use a trunk
or a table you built...
>You should always use a cutting board or a plastic tray (never use a wooden tray)

4° The sewage disposal

You will find here everything you need to know.

5° The waste bin

>They should be put away from the rest of your camp site
>The bags will be evacuated after each meal. Choose small plastic bags if you can.
>Sort cardboard and glass disposals

6° The handwasher
Click here to find ideas in order to build a washbasin
>According to basic hygiene rules you should wash your hands before cooking and before each meal.
7° The dish dryer

>It is made up of at least 2 basins (one for washing and one for rinsing)and a net or a wicker rack to let
dixies dry.
>Each basin will have a precise use. You can choose a specific color for each basin. eg :

 a green basin to clean vegetables

 a blue basin to do the dishes
 a yellow or a white basin to wash your hands

>For billycans you can put everybody in a row and do your dishes as each scout passes in front of the
washing basin. It will accelerate the process and won’t be as tedious. The scout who has to do the dishes
that day can rinse the billycans, the owner then has to pick them up, dry and store them.

>Billycans will be stored in the scout’s bag (you can find examples of how to pack here). Each one is
responsible for his/her things : You do not lay the table by simply picking up billycans from nowhere .

8° The dish cloth handler

>The dish clothes have to be put away every day. Take them out as you need them and put them away
after use.

A few ideas on things you can build before you go camping :

 A transportable wicker rack
 A dish cloth handler
 Clothes peg
 Pot holders (find an example here)
 A net