Summary of Cutting process
1. CAD:
CAD refers to computer aided designing. CAD is generally used for interpreting computerized designing.
It is an IT revolution in textile industry. CAD has several advantages.
The expense and time is reduced as compared to manual work of designing.
The data can be easily stored, transmitted and transported through computer files.
Data can be organized easily.
The design can be easily customized as correction and editing can be done at any point of time without
significant delay and cost increase.
The masters don’t need to prepare swatches all the time as they can figure out how a particular fabric
looks in different color and shape on computer screen itself.
Marker making system ensures minimum wastage of fabric.
Keys to remember in CAD:
Efficiency of marker
Placement of the pattern- It should be according to the type of fabric (one way/ two ways). For
example in the case of corduroy placement should be one way.
Placement of prints- prints should be taken care separately while designing CAD.
2. Layering:
Layering of the fabric is done on the basis of PO (indicating fabric size). After which fabric availability is
checked and then ratio is calculated and based on these ratios markers are made (based on the layer
length of fabric).
Note:
During the process of layering fabric should be kept in flat position without any tension in a relaxed
situation.
Layer height should not go beyond 3”.
Some of the major lay plans are as follow:
a. Half Garment Lay includes only half of the garment pieces for example one side left or right.
Generally used for tubular fabrics.
b. Whole Garment Lay includes garment pieces, left and right sides. Generally used for Open width
fabrics.
c. Single Size Lay is used using all garment pieces of one single size. Disadvantageous as the
consumption of fabric is higher.
Types of lay:
Single Ply is a single layer of fabric generally to make samples
Multiple Ply is a number of fabric layers stacked on one top of other
Stepped Lay is multiple lay in which groups of layers have different lengths generally used for
getting best utilization and consumption of fabric.
Keys to remember in Layering:
3. Spreading:
Spreading is the process of imposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table, cutting table, or specially
designed surface in preparation for the cutting process. A spread or layup is the total amount of fabric
prepared for a single marker. A spread may consist of a single or multiple plies. The height of a lay-up or
spread is limited by fabric characteristics size of the order to be cut, cutting method, and the vertical
capacity of the spreader.
Spreading can be done manually as well as through machines.
One person or two, depending on the width and type of fabric, type of equipment, and size of spread,
may be involved with the spreading process. Two people may be used for manual spreading unless the
spread is very short. One person may work each side of the table in order to keep the fabric flat,
smooth, and tension-free. With automatic spreading, the equipment controls the tension, fabric
placement, and rate of travel. The spread lays are then cut using appropriate machines and methods.
Note: Quality of cutting table should be smooth with no obstacles and there should be no rust on cutting
table. The basic cutting tables are Cork cutting table, # ply cutting table and sanction table.
Tables for cutting and spreading should be of given dimension:
Length=96”
Width=48”
Height=37 ½ “
Small table dimensions
Length=96”
Width=12 ½”
Height= 37 ½”
Forms of Spreading
One Way Cutting is when fabric is laid the same way up with grain or print pattern running in the same
direction. Fabric has to be cut at the end of each ply.
Fact to Face Cutting is when the plies are laid in pairs face to face. The grain or pattern runs in the same
direction.
Two Way Cutting is when plies are laid continuously from left to right and right to left without cutting at
the end and it is most efficient method of spreading. It cannot be used with grain restrictions or one
directional printed fabric.
4. Fusing machine:
Fusing as a process refers to joining. Generally fusing means adhering or fusing a hot melt adhesive
backing to cloth. Which gives the part stability and some wrinkle resistance. Fusing are generally of two
categories- Fusible and Non Fusible.
Purpose for using interlining/ fusing is:
To make sewing easier and to increase production
Retraining shape and improving fabric appearance
Making a functional, lasting and easy to wear product
Keys to remember in fusing:
Temperature setting
Time setting
Pressure setting
Some common problems in fusing:
Thermostat unit do not work.
Actual temperature does not reach setting temperature.
Actual temperature is over setting temperature
5. Cutting:
Once the marker is made, pattern pieces are cut out of the specified fabric, and the process is called
"cutting”
Types of cutting:
Fully manual: Manually Computerized
operated power methods:
Hand knife:
operated Computer controlled
scissor Straight knife knife cutting
Band knife Cutting by Laser beam
Round knife Cutting by Water jet
Die cutting Cutting by Plasma
Notcher torch
Drill
6. Sorting & Bundling:
The role of Sorting Department in the Factory is to coordinate and facilitate production in the Sewing
Department.
After cutting, sorting takes place where numbered stickers are put on all parts of the garment according
to the lays i.e. all cut parts from one Lay are given one number. Sorting Department is labor intensive
since the work involves selection and bundling requires human discretion. The process is bundling
where all cut parts are made in to bundles. If Fusing is required in some parts (as collar, Neckband,
placket, and cuff) it takes place before bundling but after Sorting.
Note: bundling can be single piece or multiple piece bundling.