BTLE 30223 CLOTHING SELECTION PURCHASE AND CARE

SUBJECT DESCRIPTION: This is on aesthetic, technical, economic and psychological

factors in the selection, purchase and care of clothes.

Chapter 1: Guide to Material Selection

Objective:

1. Determine the type of fabric to select or use for the clothing.

2. Apply the factors in clothing selection in their daily life.

3. Wise buyer in the selection of fabric.

Introduction:

The type of fabric to use for any type of clothing is a very crucial step in selection of

clothes. Choosing the right fabric sometimes is too difficult to decide. Settling with the

wrong type of fabric can be one of the main reasons for the clothing to be disappointing

to wear and functional.

What makes the fabric selection process difficult is the fact that there are many options

for fabric types and a few of them could seem the “perfect” fit for a given garment.

However, by finding some common examples, looking at the catalogs and based on

experience, the process of choosing the right material for specific clothes can be made

easier.

There are only two reasons why we want to sew clothing. First, we like a fabric and find

a fitting pattern for it. The other one is we like a pattern for which we need to find a fabric

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for. Finding the right decision lies in these two aspects. They compliment to each other

and work together.

Types of Fabric

Cotton voile - lightweight, semi-sheer fabric notable for having great drape.

Cotton lawn - similar to cotton voile but with the more crisp feel.

Rayon challis - smooth and lightweight with excellent drape. This fabric is slightly

heavier compared to other lightweight fabrics such as cotton voile and cotton lawn.

Chambray - smooth and lightweight but is not know for having good drape.
Denim - heavy fabric with close to no drape and elasticity
Double gauze - rarely used fabric which is literally two layers of gauze woven together.
The double layer solves the issue of sheerness when sewing clothing from gauze while
retaining its positive qualities (lightweight and breathable).
Knit - there are different kinds of knit ranging from heavy to middleweight fabrics. This
type of fabric is your automatic choice if the garment needs to have a great deal of stretch.
Silk - lightweight and fragile with excellent drape. This fabric is slightly shimmery and
slippery making it difficult to work with. Commonly used as a lining fabric.
Satin - weight varies depending o the type of satin. Mch like silk, shimmery, slippery and
fragile.
Linen - middleweight fabric that is a bit elastic. Linen conducts heat very well. It is
popular choice for warm-weather.
Wool - has a wide variety of types depending on the kind of sheep the wool s taken from.
Extremely durable and warm.
Flannel – soft and lightweight fabric that works well for perfect for loose garments.
Terms
Pattern – is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced into fabric before
being cut out and assembled. Patterns ae usually made of paper, and are sometimes
made of sturdier materials like paperboard or cardboard if they need to be more robust to
withstand repeated use.

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Fabric – is cloth or other material produced by weaving together cotton, nylon, wool, silk
or other threads. Fabrics are used for making things such as clothes, curtains and sheets.
Textile – any filament, fiber or yarn that can be made into fabric or cloth and the resulting

material itself. The term is derived from the Latin textilis and the French texere, meaning

to “weave”, and it originally referred only to woven fabrics.

Factors that Influenced Clothing Selection

Factors that influenced the respondents' clothing selection were grouped into physical,

aesthetic, psycho-social, and economic factors. Color, fashion, affordability, durability

and religion, season, occasion and age were factors that influenced respondents' clothing

selection the most.

Age : While selecting fabric one has to think of the age group of the child. For small

children, dainty prints in soft colors can be chosen. Nursery prints are not suitable for

elementary school children. When the children enter late childhood stage, the boys like

masculine colors, for examples blue, grayish blue, and brown and girls like to wear

feminine colors like pink, green and red. Some fabrics, which are delicate, are chosen for

girls clothing whereas, rough textured fabrics are suitable for adolescent boys.

The style of the dress also changes according to the age group of the child. The A-line

dresses are suitable for toddlers and infants. Later on, dresses with lots of gathers are

suitable for girls' frocks. In the same way type of collars are suitable for younger age

group, for example baby collar is not suitable for adolescent.

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Cotton and blends of cotton with synthetics are good for summer as they are good

conductor of heat and absorptive. There are cool and warm colors. The cool colors are

associated with coolness, for example, blue, green, white etc. Warm colors are bad

conductors of heat and associated with warmth for example, red, golden yellow and

orange. So warm colors are suitable for winter, whereas cool colors are chosen for

summer.

Income : Amount of money affects the selection of clothing. Children belonging to high-

income group can spend more percentage of money on clothing as compared to low

income. They can spend more money on fashionable garments rather than on durable

clothes. Parents belonging to low-income group prefer durable clothes rather than

delicate ones. Therefore, the preference of the clothing changes according to the income

of the family. Low socio-economic growth gives more importance to durability, comfort

and price as compared to becomingness and beauty.

Occasion : Selection of clothes also changes according to occasion. For daily wear or

informal wear, durable dresses with simple designs can be chosen but for occasional or

formal wear novel fabrics with new styles are chosen.

Fashion: Fashionable clothes look beautiful. One looks odd when one go out of fashion.

Few fabrics and colors are in fashion while others are not. Some clothes should be

brought according to fashion and others should be simple. Children belonging to high-

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income group can wear fashionable clothes to great extent as compared to low-income

group. Too much of fashion should be avoided.

Family Clothing Budget

Clothing is an essential part of any annual family budget. The family budget is really

nothing more than a listing of the expenses and incoming moneys on month to month

basis. In budgeting one must consider the size of the family, its income, the needs of the

family and the locality where the family lives. For a budget to be workable, income should

be adequate or enough to meet the prioritized needs of the family. Anyone can put

together a basic wardrobe even on a limited budget. By shopping for and selecting certain

classic pieces, we can have a multi-purpose, stylish wardrobe that will suit all our fashion

needs.

FAMILY CLOTHING BUDGET

A budget (from old French bougette, purse) is generally a list of all planned expenses

and revenues. It is a plan for saving and spending. A budget is an important concept in

microeconomics, which uses a budget line to illustrate the trade-offs between two or more

goods. In other terms, a budget is an organizational plan stated in monetary terms.

“What colors should I wear?” : Factors affecting Color Trends for your clothes

Color is everywhere, affecting our moods, our fashion sensibilities, even our appetites. It

is the first thing you notice when you look at something. So when it comes to selecting

clothes, color plays a very big role.

The same garment that looks beautiful on one person can look hideous on

another. One of the major factors that result in this difference in visual perception is the

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color of the garment. Hence designers are particularly concerned about the best use of

colors in their creations. Color is at the center stage of fashion.

When there is question of "Which color is best for

me?" no single answer can say it all. There are a

million colors and a million interpretations to those

colors. How can you restrict yourself to a specific

paradigm, when there are so many different factors

affecting your choice of colors.

For individuals, a knowledge of different colors and identifying the perfect colors for

them can have a lasting effect on their whole outlook and image in the outside world -

whatever be the trend /fashion of the moment. Check out this post on the mixing and

matching of colors to find the right color combination for your clothes as per the color

wheel.

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You may get lost in the world of color names - understandably so, because there are so

many hues and shades. If you want to know the correct names of the different colors

around you, this post "Color names in Fashion" with names of hundreds of colors may

help you .

Color Trends - Factors Affecting Your Choices

There are some major factors that affect our color choices. But they do not work in

isolation from each other; our choices are a combination of all of these. But most of the

time one of these factors outweigh others in our final choice of color.

Age and Gender of the Wearer

Your 5 year old kid would not like a shirt in a color preferred by his 70 year old

grandfather. When selecting a shirt for your kid you would be going for yellows, minty

greens etc instead of the cream or grey or blue your dad may prefer.

Pinks, peach, lavender, soft yellows are preferred universally for kids clothes; but as

they go older they may look for brighter purple, reds etc. The older kids seems to prefer

more mature and earthy colors like tan, terracotta, blue etc.

As you age, changes in the skin and the color of the hair are also to be taken into

consideration when selecting color.

Stereotyping color preferences based on gender will raise the hackles of my equality

advocating daughter, raising the sexist banner on me but they do exist. I bet my

husband would stare blank if asked to prefer between teal and sea foam green,

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whereas I know their difference in my sleep. He probably knows plum as a fruit, not as a

color.

But both men and women have their strong color preferences; sometimes in the

opposite sides of the color spectrum, sometimes uncannily similar.

In a study it was found that blue is a universally liked color, both by men and women.

But have you seen a man actively choosing a candy pink purse, though I would in a

jiffy. Men seem to prefer blue and women shades of red in a comparative study that I

read recently. So there is a gender difference. And marketers seems to have studied

this color preferences in details going by their offerings.

Physical attributes of the wearer

Factors like Size of the person, hair color, skin tone, and eye color can also influence

color selection

Hair color

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If you have blonde hair / golden hair, usually this is accompanied with fair skin and blue

eyes.

Hair with blue undertones (such as platinum or ash blond, auburn red, and snow-white

and jet black). These combinations are good with cool colors like pastel pinks, beige,

pale green, light blues, and purples.

Hair with golden undertones (such as honey or strawberry blond, rust red, brown or

brownish black, or creamy white) - Warm colors or colors with orange or yellow

undertones work well.

If you have black or brown hair go for rich and vivid colors.

Grey hair looks good with cool colors like Navy blue and midnight blue.

Skin color

If you have fair skin you will look better in cool colors like blue and green; soft and

pastel colors like soft yellow, peach, lavender, mint green, alabaster; neutral colors like

ivory ; jewel tones like coral, are all good with fair skin.

If you have darker skin with a warm tinge you will look better in warm colors like red,

orange and yellow ; earth tones like green, orange, olive, blue, navy, emerald,

burgundy, ruby; plum white and pink can also suit dark skinned.

Warm colors have a golden / orange or yellow under tone; cool colors a blue undertone.

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Light skinned people look better in silver colors and dark-skinned in gold colors; though

there are exceptions to this rule.

Eye color

Blue, gray or green eyes - if you have any of these

eye colors you will gravitate towards cool colors. If

you have brown, hazel or amber eyes you would

prefer to have warm colors in your wardrobe.

If you have beautiful eyes and you want to

emphasize this, use a darker shade of the eye color near your face ( as a shawl, wrap,

or hat)

Body size

If you are on the petite side and you want to look slightly larger in stature, you would

prefer to wear white or light colored clothes than a slimming black or navy blue.

Warm colors make the object look bigger than cool colors. Bright shades of a color

makes you look bigger than dark deep shades of the same color. Dark and dull colors

do recede the figure. So a bright red will make you look far bigger than you will look in a

darker shade of red.

Neutral colors like white, black , off-white are good at neutralizing lines and projections.

So if you have anything to hide like an unsightly bulge at the love handles, soft lines in

neutrals should be chosen than a bright red.

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 Wearing black is slimming. But if you are

overweight covering your body in folds of black from

top to toe may make you look bigger than

otherwise. Check out this post on 30+ dressing tips

to look slim for more details.

Occasion

If you are going to an evening party with plenty of

artificial lighting you can wear very bright colors and still not look garish. Artificial lighting

at these venues can soften bright colors and make the color look glamorous.

For a business function, brown is a dependable color whereas pink may make you

seem somewhat frivolous in that setting.

For afternoon functions in the broad daylight, you can opt for soft colors which are not

too bright.

So choosing colors according to the occasion is important as well. Not adhering to this

can land you in trouble at times. In the West, black color is worn at funerals but in the

East, white is the predominant color at funerals.

For a creative pitch a navy blue color suit may project the label of being not creative

enough ( it is the stable color) whereas red can give the vibe of an extremely creative

energy

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Time of Wearing the Color

On sunny days you are better off wearing light cool colors to keep your cool. Black is

not the best color for sun. In fact white is the best color for sunny summer days. But

then this is a debatable point as studies have been done showing color has no

correlation to not feeling the heat- it is the looseness of clothes that matters in bringing

down the heat.

For winter I would say warm colors fare better. Choose browns and reds. You will feel

less blue.

Fashion Trends and Celebrity Craze

This is more of a factor than you know. Going after fashion trends after analyzing

yourself is better than following blindly.

Find celebrities that match your body shape and skin and other attributes, notice what

they wear and follow them. They have stylists who knows their job and following them

would do you more good than say, me wearing Jennifer Lawrence's clothes, just

because I love her.

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Visual effects of colors

Colors can have different reactions from people, depending on their associations with it.

But generally, the color theory and its offshoots have categorized color and given them

different attributes, which are universally agreed upon.

Basically color is divided into three categories: Warm, cool and neutral colors

Warm colors are red, orange, yellow and all the colors in between. Red is the warmest

color. These are high energy colors. It is said that these colors stimulates a special

chemical called dopamine in our body which makes us feel good. Warm colors are

considered advancing, stimulating, and exciting. They make objects or shapes appear

larger or more important.

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Cool colors are blue and green violet and colors in between. Blue is the coolest color.

They are considered receding, quieting, and reserved. These colors make shapes and

areas appear smaller and less important.

Neutral colors are black, white, grey and the colors in [Link] of use prefer

neutral colors for their elegance but sometimes they can be energy draining. The

negative energy given by these colors have to be relieved with some splashes of color.

Learn more about neutral colors here

After evaluating all these factors, if you still have a color that you like but may not be the

right one, you can get away with wearing it away from your face like as a skirt or pants.

Explanations of different colors and why you should wear them.

White

White is a classic color, favourite of one and all, the symbol of purity and innocence.

Designers use white a lot because most everyone prefers this color one way or the

other. Lacy sheer white to brocade white with double tones, white clothes and

accessories are always in demand.

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The hassle of maintaining the purity of white color wear after wear do not deter white

lovers from investing in more and more clothes of this color. Check out this post

on washing and caring for white clothes, so that the white color is maintained.

Because of its quality of making an object look bigger, white is not the easiest color to

work with but if played right this color can be an asset in your wardrobe.

Another disadvantage of white is that it can

make you look washed out, without a relief.

Pairing it right with other colors can make

this color an asset to your wardrobe

Off white, cream, beige and fawn

These belong to the natural color group, ie

they are associated with the colors of

natural fabrics like straw, hessian , hemp ,

canvas etc. The raw look of these colors are preferred by many. There are people who

prefer to wear only these colors. If not careful, these colors in their entirety can make

you look quite boring. But generally, these colors are becoming for most people.

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 Pink

Pink is a feminine color. It can give out a

feeling of cheerfulness, liveliness. One

disadvantage of wearing pink is that you

can be judged frivolous or at least not

serious enough in a formal environment.

Fuschia pink is a vibrant color giving out a

lot of energy vibes.

Yellow

Yellow is a cheerful, lively and fun color,

the color of sunshine. It is a good color to

treat yourself out of depressing moods as it

denotes optimism. The mood elevating

property of yellow is to be used cautiously

though as sometimes bright yellow color

can be quite jarring and over stimulating.

Yellow is thought of as a suitable color for

kids. A soft yellow can be good for kids, cheering them up and stimulating their minds. It

can also be good for raising self esteem in them.

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 Orange

This is another energizing color. It is a color

that is very inviting and exudes warmth. It is

also associated with joy and festivities.

Black

Black is a slimming color which wins it many brownie points. It is a slightly depressing

color when worn on its own, and can sometimes overwhelm the wearer but the elegant

and powerful look of black makes it still an all time favorite color, when done right. If

you have sallow skin, avoid black color, because it may make you look wan.

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 Silver

This is a color which gives a feel of the futuristic. Using this color singly for clothes can

make you look like someone from the space but a hint of silver can be a good thing.

Green

A calming color, green is used for its natural feel. Think leaves, plants, shrubs, vines

etc. Everything related to the natural landscape can have that effect on you.

The bright green can give out amazing energy and make you feel young. Lime green is

such a vibrant energetic color whereas a pale green is a very soothing color.

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[Link] says green is a color of harmony and balance and of well being. Do you

want more recommendation.?

Red

Red is the color of power. If you want to stand out in the crowd this is the color for you.

Ever wondered why the speaker in the podium wearing red is quite an attention

grabber. People look at you and take note of what you say, be it in a more negative or

positive way - they do.

If you are the introvert you would skip red because it will bring all attention to you. Red

can also be overstimulating, so if you want peace and quite skip red.

Check out the post on more tips on getting the Red colour look right.

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 Violet

Violet is a calming color.

Blue

Blue is a universally liked color - a color that

denotes honesty, calmness, trustworthiness.

There are many shades of blue and they mean

many different things. A light blue like sky blue is

very calming and a cobalt blue very energizing

and a dark midnight blue may look dull and dark

in the wrong surroundings.

Navy blue is a formal color. This traditional color can make you look authoritative and

trustworthy. It can also make you give an intellectual aura.

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The problem with dark blue is that it can be a little boring and make you look less

creative than maybe you are inside; but it is a safe color and a favorite of many.

Brown

This is a color which proclaims dependability. A

chocolate brown suit can make you seem

trustworthy and likable. People warm up to you

more when you wear brown.

Lucky colors & Star signs

Do you believe in luck? If you do, you may wish to check out colors that bring on luck

according to your star signs.

Star Sign Lucky Color

Aries Red

Taurus Pink, Baby Blue

Gemini Yellow

Cancer Blue, White

Leo Ruby

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 Star Sign Lucky Color

Virgo Green, Brown

Libra Pink, Light green

Scorpio Maroon

Sagittarius Purple, Dark blue

Capricon Dark green, Black, Brown

Aquarius Blue

Pisces Light Green

Personality
The mind is a curious thing and even if brown suits me the best I choose pink every

time I go to buy something. My desire triumphs over my logical brain.

Ultimately it is your personality that determines the colors you wear. Personality is the

sum of everything we have described and more.

Personality over rides most of the above factors and decides the color of clothes you

buy. So after factoring everything, narrow down on the colors you personally prefer to

wear and do your own thing.

Read more: Infographic @ [Link]

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Definition of a Family Budget

A family budget is the main tool used to manage personal finances and save money. A

family budget can be simple or detailed, depending on ones need for track ones income

and expenses for an entire month to make a family budget.

Benefits of budget

Budget plan helps one to achieve ones spending and financial goals, other benefits are

as follows:

Keeping Track : Budgeting allows one to track ones monthly expenditures so that one

can plan key savings strategies for important short- and long-term goals.

Limits one's spending : A budget will identify expenses that can be cut so that one

can set goals on making important long-term savings.

Discipline oneself : Ones goal is to rid oneself of instant gratification (the symptom of

credit card use). The budget sets guidelines on what and when items can be purchased.

Setting Goals : Budgeting supports ones financial goals, which may include: saving for

one's first home, paying down debt, preparing to go to school, planning for retirement

Good budgeting skills add these goals into the budget.

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Family expenses (annual or monthly)

In budget "cash in-flows" needs to be greater than "cash out-flows"

This section allows one to input either monthly or annual family expenses in each of

fourteen different categories including: food, alcoholic beverages, housing, clothing,

transportation, healthcare, entertainment, personal care, reading, education, smoking or

tobacco, other expenses, contributions, insurance and pensions.

Budget planning

Overview: Sitting down and making a family budget may not be the most fun activity

one ever do. However, the effort and thought one put into ones budget can help relieve

stress and enable one to manage ones money more efficiently. Learning to budget for

one family of four is the first step toward smart financial management. If one have

attempted family budgeting before but have experienced difficulty staying on track, try

once more to set one family on the right financial path.

Step 1: List one fixed monthly expenses. Include mortgage or rent payments, electricity,

cable, food, phone, insurance, loan payments and transportation costs. If our children are

in childcare or a private school, add those costs as well. To ensure accuracy, use past

bank statements to make a complete list.

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Step 2: Look through one's past 12 months of expenses. Write down any expenses that

are paid annually. Magazine subscriptions, pest control fees, car registration fees,

membership dues and school supplies for children and other such expenses. Add these

together and divide by 12 to obtain the average monthly cost of these annual fixed

expenses. List this result on one's monthly budget sheet.

Step 3: Write down one variable monthly expenses on one sheet. List the cost of clothing,

entertainment, restaurant meals and other variable expenses for both adults and children.

Remember to look over the past year and include expenses that do not occur every

month, such as school lab fees, sports or music lessons, and the purchasing of gifts.

Step 4: Compare the total monthly expenses to monthly take-home income. Note

whether the expenses are greater or less than the income. Examine each budgeted

category and decide if one needs to reduce that expense. Involve children in the

discussion if they are old enough.

Step 5: Rewrite monthly budget with adjusted figures. Prepare for unexpected expenses

by setting up an automatic transfer system with one bank to establish or build a savings

account. Budgeting helps establish the habit of saving money. Encourage children to save

part of any money that they receive.

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Step 6: Decide the person responsible for keeping track of monthly budget. Rotate the

responsibilities occasionally to ensure that both of them understands the income and

expenditure pattern, frequent communication will enlighten the budget plan.

Step 7: Set up an envelope system to break any credit card habit one may have. Commit

to paying cash for as many expenses as possible. Pay the fixed expenses before

calculating how much money one have left for variable expenses. Put the budgeted

amount of cash in an envelope designated for each variable category expense, such as

entertainment, clothes, restaurant meals, coffee and gifts. Once the money in that

envelope is gone, do not make any additional purchases for the month in that category.

Tips and Warnings :

Use budgeting software to streamline the process. Consider automating loan payments

through the financial institution. Stop using credit cards and pay off any outstanding

balances. Establish savings accounts for children. Open a vacation or holiday fund to

help save for those expenses. Consult with a trusted friend or adviser concerning any

financial difficulties. Beware of consolidation loans if one has credit card debt. Analyze

any fees and expenses associated with savings plans.

Clothing the family can be an expensive endeavor, especially with the growth spurts

that children go through so often when they are younger.

Restrict oneself from impulse buying. Hold oneself to the rule of buying clothes only if

one or one family absolutely needs them. Purchase new items of clothing, wisely. It is

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best to invest in a few staple pieces that match existing pieces in one's wardrobe and

can be worn in a variety of styles.

Take advantage of end-of-season clearance and buy out specials, especially on big

ticket items such as winter coats. One can easily find discounts of 75% or more on winter

clothing at the end of March or April, and summer clothing at the beginning of August and

September. This can be a bit trickier for younger children because they outgrow things so

quickly, but for teenagers and older children one can find significant savings.

Consider setting up a schedule for purchasing new clothes, and make sure children

are aware of the new ruling. It makes sense to shop in the late summer for new school

clothes and proper fitting shoes for the fall- repeat the process in the spring. Before going

shopping for new clothes, have one family go through their closets and remove clothing

that they no longer wear or outgrown.

Creative thinking and flexibility are the keys to keeping one family budget intact.

These tips will help one stick to a strict clothing budget and save money for more

important things. And with a family-there is always something (or someone) that needs

money.

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 Cash Flow Statement

A cash flow statement is a financial statement that provides aggregate data regarding

all cash inflows a company receives from its ongoing operations and external

investment sources. It also includes all cash outflows that pay for business activities

and investments during a given period.

Our fashion choices are not just dictated by Vogue and Kendall Jenner, you know. Oh

no. In fact, there is a lot more going on when you decide to go for Those Jeans or That

Jacket (and, also, why you shun certain styles too). While, yes, we're influenced by our

mates and the bloggers we follow on Instagram, we're also influenced by our emotions

and memories. We spoke to two style experts - Kate Nightingale from Style

Psychology and Lisa Showman from Stylebug, to understand a bit more about why we

wear the clothes we wear.

Psychological Factors in Clothing Selection

It Could be an Emotional Reason

There are many reasons we opt for one cut, color and fit and not the other - one of them

being the way we were raised. 'The things we were exposed to as a child are going to

have a crucial effect because they're more available in your mind,' says Kate. 'For

example, if your mum was wearing a particular shape of jacket, you'll have a higher

inclination towards it. You won't know why, but you'll be driven towards buying that piece

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as opposed to something of exactly same color and made of the same fabric, just a

different shape.' Our sartorial tastes come from a subconscious place, so its unsurprising

that our parents, or the people we grew up with, affect our choices just as they affect our

mannerisms, behavior, and personality. On top of that, we also gravitate towards the

clothes that originally made us feel great, safe and secure: 'You get people who felt good

at 18-24, and they discovered a look they enjoyed so they stick to that look and never

move,' says Lisa. 'They never move and they take it with them through their entire life -

which is why you can often tell a person's age by the way they dress.' She's found, while

working closely with those needing style help, that we tend to hold on to the things that

remind us of happier times - something Kate agrees with: 'There's an element of attaching

emotional and security to old representations of the times when you felt comfortable and

secure,' she adds. 'They are times when you're a kid or a teenager, when everything was

provided for you so you didn't have the challenge of taking it yourself.

It might be to do with the near-exposure effect

Sometimes it's just good old-fashioned advertising leaking into our porous and

impressionable little brains. The mere exposure effect works on the basis that, the more

you see something, and the more you are exposed to something, the more likely you are

to act with a positive reaction without knowing why you did it,' says Kate. In essence, if

you see some crazy new style in a shop window, only those with an interest in fashion or

a sense of adventure are likely to buy it immediately. But once you have seen it on a few

people, walked or passed by a few billboards, then it'll slowly start to move from your

subconscious to your conscious mind and you'll end up giving it a go. It is like converse

at the moment; if there are 10 people in your office wearing converse, then you'll probably

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end up buying a pair,' says Lisa. 'Easy trends like this make it easier to fit in with your

peers, and you can see certain areas having a different 'look' to prove this. So, in cities

like London, you've got an area where everyone dresses quite media-y, or artsy, or high

fashion. Your brain is constantly picking up clues and signals from everyone around you,

so it's a case of you dress as well as the people you are friends with.

It Can be Dependent on Your Job

You are more likely to dress a certain way. And if you're an IT consultant, the same goes.

But those who move to corporate environments find their style, and the clothing choices

they make, to have a pretty negative effect overall: 'When you start working in a corporate

field, you hold on to what you know because all of a sudden, your peers have

disappeared,' Lisa explains. 'It's like a school uniform - you know what to wear in the day,

and how to power dress but you don't know what to wear when you go out. Because

you're not used to thinking for yourself, and you don't have anything to be influenced by.

This is how people get stuck in ruts, and panic when it comes to smart casual.' If the last

time you were able to regularly express yourself was at the age of 18, then you'll hang on

to those styles for dear life until it becomes uncomfortable to change them (see the above

paragraph on being afraid of change...): 'Some people don't stray far from the basics and

they do not have any kind of demanding trend-led job, so they just wear old-fashioned

corporate textures,' Kate says. 'They don't have any visual influences. The life they've

created, usually on purpose, is not demanding a change from them.

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If You are Having an Identity Crisis

This sounds a lot more intense than it is - an identity crisis could mean anything from

getting dumped to getting a new job, and it's in those times that we're more likely to go

hell-for-leather and buy those leather chaps. Or something less insane, but still out of our

comfort zone. 'When you see situations of crisis, and crucial changes in life, you will see

a different style or a change in the person's overall look,' says Kate. 'It's because our

sense of self is reflected in the clothes we wear. If someone, for example, constantly

changed their look and there was no common thread running throughout, then that would

probably imply that they're trying to find themselves and are a bit lost.' Hence why, as

teenagers, we can go from goth to chav to skater to girlie-girl in the space of six months.

We're figuring out which 'tribe' we belong to, but as you get older, you'll find your style

reflects your life: if you're stuck in a rut, your style will be too. If you're all over the place,

then you'll be a clothing chameleon.

It May be the Bloggers

There are loads of psychological tricks shops use to get you to buy stuff (we wrote a

whole article on it), but it only really works if a) you trust the brand enough to start wearing

white dungarees (for example) or b) you've seen someone influential wearing it, too. 'A

while ago, we needed real people to recommend things to us. A good friend who was

maybe a little bit more objective than our close friends who may be jealous, so tell us the

wrong information, or just recommend things that work for them. With bloggers, we can

choose who we follow and like,' says Kate. 'It's the same with brands - the followers are

either similar to the blogger, or it's aspirational.' Word of warning, though - if you're

copying a blogger's style completely, or finding yourself totally obsessed, then that might
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say something about your own self esteem: 'You rarely get people who copy someone

completely who have high self esteem,' Kate says. 'More comfortable people will take

elements and mix them with their own personality.' Which leads nicely on to.

Self-esteem Plays a Big Part

If something suits your body shape, then you're more likely to gravitate towards it,' says

Lisa. So, for example, hourglass shapes tend to prefer skirts because they feel more

comfortable in them - and it's no coincidence that skirts flatter their shape a lot more than

trousers!' But if you're not confident, and you find dressing your body really stressful, then

you're more likely to either opt out and wear tracksuits, or slavishly follow trends. That

last one, Kate adds, is especially noticeable: 'If you are comfortable with your body, and

who you are as a person, you're not going to pretend to be someone else. If you don't

have healthy self-esteem then you will change yourself to fit in with a particular scheme.

Sadly, it doesn't work because our brains can spot elements of communications via things

like body language or facial expressions; we can see that conflict, and see how you're not

authentic.' Basically, if your face, voice and stance are saying one thing, but your clothes

say another, we can tell. So, it is worth trying to figure out what YOU like, rather than

what.

Activity:

1. Bring/show samples of the different types of fabric and be able to identify them.

2. Make a simple cash flow on clothing expenses.

3. Share their experiences in the Psychological factors in the Selection of Clothes

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Chapter 2: The Fabric
Objectives:
1. Identify the parts o a woven fabric.
2. Master the correct cuttings strips using the grainline.
3. Develop the value of precision in cutting the clothes.
Parts of a Woven Fabric

Fabric selvage is the tightly woven edge that runs along each side of a piece of fabric's

lengthwise grain, which is also called the fabric's warp. Selvage edges can be seen on the

edges of quilting fabric that are at the top and bottom of a bolt of fabric. In Great Britain, the

same term is often spelled "selvedge."

Selvage edges occur when crosswise grain threads, called the weft threads, turn back and

forth as they are woven along the length of weft threads, which stay in place (secured at

their ends) during the weaving process. Tiny loops are formed where the weft threads make

each turn, and it is the little loops that keep the fabric's edges intact.

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Selvage edges vary in width. They are bound more tightly than the rest of the fabric—

another quality that prevents fraying.

If you are planning to make a lot of quilts, you will encounter selvages along the

way. Cutting accurate strips of fabric is a skill you should master.

How to See Selvage Edges

Quilting fabrics are usually 42 to 44 inches wide when measured across their width from

selvage to selvage. It is easy to see the selvage edges, although they often change in

appearance along their lengths. Here are some ways to spot them:

• In some areas of the cloth, selvages may look exactly like the rest of the fabric, but

they are thicker and more tightly woven.

• Some selvage edges are wide and a totally different color than the fabric (pictured).

• Selvages nearly always include little dots that show us the colors that are included

in the fabric. Those little dots can help you match colors or locate colors that

contrast or blend when choosing fabrics for quilts. Take a close look at the dots

printed in a few fabric selvage edges.

• Selvage edges usually include the name of the manufacturer. The name of the

designer and the design's name are often printed in the selvage, too.

Selvage Edges in Quilts

It is best to avoid using selvage edges in quilts because the extra thickness can create

problems (little lumps and irregular areas) when patchwork is sewn together. If the

appearance of the selvage changes in some areas and does not resemble the fabric, the

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appearance of the patchwork will change, too. Extra thickness can also make it more

difficult to hand quilt some areas of the project.

The cardinal rule with quilting is that there are no rules in quilting. When short of fabric and

are forced to include a small portion of the selvage, try to keep it within a seam allowance,

and use as little of the selvage as possible. When a project is complete, people may not

even be able to see where the selvage was sewn into the quilt.

Patterns and Selvages

Quick-pieced quilt patterns are often assembled, at least in part, with rotary cut strips that

are cut from selvage to selvage across a fabric's crosswise grain. Most patterns will nearly

always direct you to avoid using the selvages in the patchwork.

Quilts Designed With Selvages

Selvages are perfect for string piecing but can be used to create any project. Take a look

at a few selvage edge quilts online to see some of the creative ways quilters have used

these unique strips of fabrics.

How fabric is made (ppt video online)

[Link]

How to find the grainline

All fabric will have a direction to its yarns (woven threads). The threads will run lengthwise

as well as crosswise in a woven fabric in a parallel fashion, interlocking with each other

forming the fabric. Lengthwise yarns are called warp – they form the skeleton of the fabric;

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crosswise yarns which lie perpendicular to the selvedges of the fabric are called weft, or

filling or woof.

In terms of sewing, a reference to the grain of the fabric indicates how the fabric should

be cut so that the lengthwise yarns will be parallel to the length of the body for better

fit and drape; ie. The lengthwise grain is cut so that they run vertically on the

garment/body, and the crosswise grain runs horizontally across the body.

Grainline

On fabric, when you say grainline, it refers to the direction of the yarns along the warp

thread ie lengthwise yarn. This is the lengthwise grain.

The weft thread is referred to as the crosswise grainline. The crosswise grain is

perpendicular to length or warp grain. It has some stretch to it but not as much as bias

grain. The crosswise yarn is fuzzier with more slubs than long grain yarns and when

folded will not lay flat as length grain, but will be a bit bouncy.

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In a sewing pattern grainline refers to the lines marked on the pattern to give you

directions on how to place it on the fabric. Generally, it indicates that the fabric should be

cut so that the lengthwise yarns are placed along the center front and back, down the

center of the arm, down the center front of the pant leg, etc. Bias grain and crosswise

grain are also used depending on the design.

The ends of the grainlines will have arrowheads to show direction, for your understanding

The sewing pattern is kept on the fabric such that the grain line mark is parallel to

the selvage of the fabric. This is how the fabric is cut with the right grainline according

to the pattern

So what is bias grain?

Bias grain refers to the diagonal direction of a fabric. This direction has a lot of stretch on

the fabric.

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When you want a lot of stretch from a woven fabric bias grain is the direction to place the

pattern to cut the fabric. You can cut the fabric in a partial bias direction or a true bias

direction – with the true bias you get the greatest stretch – it is the most diagonal cut of a

fabric. Learn more about bias grain and bias cutting here.

Why is a grainline so important in sewing?

For one, the lengthwise yarns of a fabric are stronger than the crosswise yarns. They fall

and drape better when they fall down the body. The lengthwise yarns stretch lesser than

the crosswise yarns.

Bias grain stretches more than either of these grains, with the true bias grain having the

most stretch. This helps in better fitting according to the shape of the body. So it is

important that you know the grain of the fabric before you cut the fabric.

How To Place A Pattern Piece On A Grainline

The most important steps in the process of making a clothing item comes at the

beginning with the drafting of the sewing pattern then cutting it properly according to

its grainline. If you are a sewing beginner, you might feel a bit overwhelmed by some

of the terms used when discussing the process of aligning, pinning and cutting a

sewing pattern.

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 Via Pixabay
Terms like grainline, selvage edge, cut edge, or cut-on-fold can all seem like a big

blur for someone who is just starting out. However, once you understand the

importance of these elements when preparing your fabric and eventually cutting your

sewing patterns, you'll be glad you put in some extra effort to understand them.

Below, we'll walk you through 4 basic ways to align and cut your sewing patterns

according to fabric grain but first, lets start with the basic understanding of grainline

and selvage edge- the two most important elements used in the fabric cutting

process.

The grainline on a sewing pattern is depicted by a double pointed arrow. It is

positioned within the body of the sewing pattern (as opposed to the edge) and

essential in the pattern alignment process.

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The grainline on the sewing pattern should match the grain of the fabric which can be

identified using the selvage edge. Here it is, another term- the selvage edge is

depicted by the finished lengthwise edges of the fabric piece. These edges do not

fray and are used as a guide in the pattern cutting process.

When the fabric is taken off the bolt or roll, you'll notice it is woven such that it has

two selvage edges on both its lengthwise sides. Vise versa, the width edges

perpendicular to the selvage edge are called cut edges representing the direction in

which fabric is cut off the bolt or roll.

At the fabric store, the length of the fabric (in yards) is measured along the selvage

edge and cut perpendicular to it (cut edge). It is incorrect to cut a fabric piece along

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the selvage edges as this edge should remain intact and is an essential tool for

aligning your sewing patterns in the sewing process correctly.

Lengthwise Grain: How to Align A Sewing Pattern On The Lengthwise Grain.

The lengthwise grain of fabric is positioned parallel to the selvage edge. Due to

the nature of the lengthwise grain's durability and drape, this is the most common

direction in which sewing patterns are cut.

The first step in understanding whether your sewing patterns are meant to be cut on

the lengthwise grain or otherwise is by identifying the grainline mark on the sewing

pattern. As mentioned above, this is depicted by a double pointed arrow positioned

somewhere within the body of the sewing pattern. This arrow is essential in

pattern-making and pattern-cutting thus you will seldom come across a professional

sewing pattern that doesn't have a grainline marking.

Once you identify this arrow (grainline), note its placement in relation to the top

and bottom of the garment- A lengthwise grainline will extend vertically on the

pattern, pointing towards the neckline/shoulder seams at the top and the garment's

hem at the bottom.

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A lengthwise grainline is also (almost always) parallel to the Center

Front/Back. The Center Front/Back is a vertical line, whether visible or invisible on

the sewing pattern, that represents the center-most vertical line mark at the front and

back of a clothing item. It is important that you understand the concept of these two

center lines as they determine the correct balance, size and proportion of the garment

and used a lot as the starting point in the pattern-making, cutting and draping process.

Once you've determined the grainline of your sewing pattern, align the sewing

pattern on the fabric such that the grainline on the sewing pattern is parallel to

the selvage edge of the fabric. This is actually the #1 rule of aligning a sewing

pattern to the fabric correctly: Always place the sewing pattern such that the double

pointed arrow on the sewing pattern (grainline) is in parallel relation to the selvage

edge.

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The most accurate way to do so is by using a ruler. Measure from one end of the

grainline (arrow) to the selvage edge and place a pin through both pattern and fabric

to secure this placement. Next, measure the same length from the selvage edge to

the other end of the grainline (arrow) and place a second pin through both layers to

secure. Pin the rest of the pattern at the seam allowance and cut it out carefully.

Crosswise Grain: How To Align A Sewing Pattern On The Crosswise Grain.

As opposed to lengthwise grain, the crosswise grain of fabric is located

perpendicular to the selvage edge.

Although most pattern pieces are cut on the lengthwise grain, some sewing patterns

require to be cut crosswise on fabric. This is mostly done when attempting to fit as

many pattern pieces as possible on a smaller fabric space.

In other cases, patterns may be cut on the crosswise grain if the pattern or weave

perpendicular to the selvage edge is more desirable for the design at hand.

Crosswise and lengthwise stretch is also taken in consideration when deciding on the

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pattern's cutting direction. If cutting the sewing pattern on the crosswise grain allows

for more stretch in the finished garment, then a crosswise cut may end up being the

more appropriate choice.

For the most part however, the crosswise grain of fabric is a bit weaker and features

a different drape than the lengthwise grain, especially when it comes to woven fabrics.

This difference in drape can negatively affect the fit and comfort of a clothing item

once sewn. For that reason, it is usually recommended that most sewing patterns

are cut on the lengthwise grain (parallel to the selvage edge).

To identify whether the sewing pattern at hand displays a crosswise grainline, find the

double pointed arrow marked on the pattern as described above. As opposed to a

lengthwise grainline, a crosswise grainline will extend horizontally from one side seam

to the other, perpendicular to center front or center back. Vise versa, the lengthwise

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grainline extends from the top of the clothing item to the hem, parallel to the center

back and center front.

To align a pattern on the crosswise grain simply position the arrow of the grainline

parallel to the selvage edge as described above. You will notice that while the

grainline on the pattern remains parallel to the selvage edge, the direction of the

garment pattern itself is different than that of a lengthwise grain placement - The

pattern piece is perpendicular in relation to the selvage edge.

Without overwhelming you with too many terms, keep in mind that the woven

threads that are parallel to the selvage edge (lengthwise grain) are called weft and

and those that are perpendicular to the selvage edge (crosswise grain) are

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called warp.

Weft= Threads on lengthwise grain

Warp= Threads on crosswise grain

Bias Cut: Aligning A Pattern On The Fabric Bias

A bias grainline can sometimes be a bit confusing for sewing beginners, but if you

follow the same logic as described above and work with the selvage edge of fabric,

you'll find that a bias cut is just as simple. The bias represents the diagonal direction

within the fabric, and is positioned at 45 degrees in relation to the selvage edge.

You might wonder why you would ever need to cut a sewing pattern on the bias.

Well, bias cuts are actually used a lot more often than you think, mainly in evening

wear/bridal and for making bias binding. While it is more costly due to the fact that it

requires the use of more fabric yardage, it allows for a beautiful drape with added

stretch even for those woven fabrics that completely lack stretch along the lengthwise

and crosswise grains.

Don't believe us? Try this experiment: Pull a woven fabric vertically along the selvage

and note it's stretch. Now do the same horizontally on the fabric, perpendicular to the

selvage edge. You'll notice that the lengthwise flexibility of a woven fabric is usually

identical to its crosswise. Now, stretch the fabric diagonally from one corner to the

opposite corner- notice the stretch? The intersection of the threads diagonally allow

for more movement and increased comfort.

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A bias grainline is positioned diagonally on a sewing pattern at a 45 degree angle in

relation to the center front/back line. It points from one corner to the opposite corner

of the pattern piece intersecting the lengthwise and crosswise grainlines.

To align a bias pattern piece on fabric, follow the steps described above by aligning

the arrow mark on the pattern parallel to the selvage edge of the fabric. Make sure

you position the grainline at exactly the same distance from the selvage edge

throughout- use a ruler for precision.

You'll notice that aligning the bias grainline parallel to the selvage edge will

automatically position the pattern piece diagonally on the fabric. This is the beauty of

grainlines- once they are marked on the pattern piece, all you have to do is place

them parallel to the fabric's selvage edge and you'll always achieve the correct

alignment.

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Cut on fold: Cutting a Sewing Pattern On Fold
Cutting a pattern on fold is conveniently used when limited on work space, to save

pattern paper, or simply for cutting comfort. Keep in mind that not all pattern pieces

can be cut on fold. In the case of an asymmetric design or when the fabric is too

difficult to handle or cut while folded, cutting patterns on fold is not an option.

Vise versa, in the case of a pattern piece that has symmetric sides separated by a

straight line (usually center front or center back), cutting on fold can be quite

convenient. A cut on fold mark on the sewing pattern is usually depicted by a double

arrow pointing downwards towards the edge that is aligned with the fabric fold (see

image bellow).

As is true for all pattern cutting methods, it is important to look at the grainline on

the sewing pattern before determining whether to fold the pattern crosswise or

lengthwise. Follow the directions above to determine the grainline's direction in

relation to the selvage edge.

A lengthwise fold as shown below is the most common of the two. A lengthwise fold

is generally more stable, easier to measure and align.

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When folding the fabric lengthwise, make sure the distance from the fold to the

selvage edge is exactly the same throughout. This is important in achieving the

proper cut and fit and avoiding off-grain comfort issues in the final garment. Once

the fabric has been folded, align the cut-on-fold edge with the fold on the fabric-

they should be perfectly matched and overlapping.

Once the pattern piece has been cut and the pins are removed, you'll notice that

opening the folded fabric results in two identical, symmetric sides.

[Link]
[Link] (How to find the grainline)

How to Find the Grainline Without Selvage

[Link] (How to find the grainline without

selvage)
[Link]

How Pleated Fabrics are made?

Pleating involves folding fabric into different shapes creating differences in the volume

and texture of the fabric. Pleating fabric involves having a mold made up of two pieces

of card that are folded identically so that they can fit together with an outer wrapper to

protect the pattern during the heating process.

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[Link]

Chapter 3: Textile & Production

1. Develop the skill in choosing the right fabric for the right clothing.

2. Evaluate how to buy the right fabric for the right design of clothing.

3. Consider the three key points in choosing the right fabric.

Three Key Points in Choosing the Right Fabric

1. Consider the Fabric Weight. The weight of a fabric is measured in GSM (grams

per square meter) and it defines how heavy or light a fabric is.

2. Examine the Fabric Drape. The drape determines how the fabric flows. In short,

stiff fabrics have less drape, and fluid fabrics have more drapes.

A fabric with more drape will make the skirt float away from your body while to a

fabric with a soft drape which will make it fold close to your body. For example,

you want a flowing skirt, you should pick a thin an ell-draping fabric, but if you want

a more structured skirt, choose a stiff and thick fabric.

3. Test the Fabric Stretch. Stretch is how much your fabric stretches. Fabrics have

different elasticity (ability of textile fibers to “bounce back” when they ae stretched).

When you are choosing a fabric with stretch, you have to be sure that it works for

your pattern, because it can change how the final product fits the body.

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To measure the stretch of a fabric, stretch 5” of fabric over a ruler, holding one end

on the zero mark and stretching the other until you feel resistance and then divide

that number by the original length of the fabric.

For example: if your fabric stretches to 7.5”, it stretched 2.5 past the original length.

This is 50% stretch.

How to Buy Fabric

1. Type of Fabric – First thing to know what is the type of fabric you have in mind.

The textiles available are broadly categorized as natural textiles and synthetic

textiles.

Natural Textiles Synthetic Textiles

Cotton Nylon
Silk Polyester
Denim Acetate
Flannel Acrylic
Hemp Polar Fleece
Leather Rayon
Linen Spandex
Velvet
Wool

2. Colorfastness - Ensure that the color of the fabric is even, without any streaks

or spots. You will have to open and check carefully to see indications of uneven

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dyeing. There may be spots or color fading on areas especially on the crease

line/fold line. If you find light colors in some areas, unless it is a design, do not

buy – this may indicate that the color will fade with washing machine.

One way you can test the color of the fabric you are about to buy is to take a small

white handkerchief or cotton, dampen it and then rub it somewhere on the fabric.

If it is good quality the color will not transfer to the fabric/cotton in your hand.

3. Suitability and Location – You have probably have some sort of garment in

mind when buying the fabric and you have to know the suitability of the fabric then.

For example, you cannot make wool swimsuit or cotton sports clothes or polyester

baby clothes. Think of the occasion and the place where the garments will be worn

as you choose the fabrics to make them. Wool will not do in a desert environment

and chiffon will definitely not be right for visiting the cold alpine region. The cotton

fabric would be perfect for summer clothes since they are perfect for cooling the

skin.

4. Shrinkage – You have to consider the shrinkage factor when choosing your

fabric. You have to know if the fabric will shrink after getting wash. Every fabric

shrinks differently. In order to be on the safe side, by an extra 10% of the fabric.

If you can consider a preshrunk fabric which will not give you trouble. Preshrunk

fabrics have labels such as “Sanforised”, “Mercerised” and so on.

5. Color – The color of the fabric is very important especially if you ae choosing

the fabric to make your own dress. Choose a color that agrees with your skin tone

to make the dress even more beautiful on you. If it is a wedding color and you are

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buying fabric to make several dresses, just ensure that the color is in accordance

with the wedding theme color. Shop for the fabric in broad daylight and not after

sunset if you are going to an actual brick and mortar shop. Artificial lighting can in

some cases distort the color which is why you need natural light to tell the real

color.

Just remember that once the fabric has been cut from the bolt, you cannot return

it when you realize it is the wrong color after buying it. It will not be accepted, and

you will be forced to spend more on the right or correct color of material this time

around. This could really put a dent in the budget.

6. Quality of the fabric - Before you even check whether it is linen, cotton,

polyester or nylon, you must feel it against your skin and feel whether it is of good

quality. The fabric must be blemish-free especially when it comes to things such

as dye, print, fibers, tears and so on. The quality should be perfect because if the

fabric has blemishes, you will no doubt have clothes made that will depict those

imperfections in the fabric.

7. Pattern – You might be considering buying patterned fabric after you see the

various appealing patterns on display. Just take into great consideration the fact

that there will be pattern repeat in these fabrics which should influence the cutting.

The motifs on the fabric have to be distributed in a systematic manner by being

placed correctly especially at the seams. Be careful and ensure that the fabric

does not become distorted or when matched p or lined to create the garment.

When it comes to patterns, choose one that will best represent the fashion look

you intend to achieve with the dress created in the end.

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8. The Fabric Gain – This should be a major consideration when buying fabrics

because as much as you buy the most attractive fabric, it might present some

challenges if the grain is not right. With the wrong grain on the fabric, the outfit

you make with it will hang wrong. The moment you realize the grain of the fabric

is all wrong do not buy it to avoid further complications down the road.

9. Fabric weight - The fabric weight is in most cases determined by factors such

as the fiber type, weave and so on. The weight of the fabric can be indicated by

GSM which can vary from 60-700. A denim fabric, instance, will have a GSM of

400 of course depending on the weave. Just remember that a higher fabric weight

does not necessarily mean that the fabric is of fine quality. The fabric weight

should mainly influence suitability. Knowing the fabric weight will help you

compare various types of fabrics and decide on the best fabric for garments of

certain occasions and environments.

Buying fabrics should not be a headache now that you know what to look for. Go

out there and shop for the fabric of your dreams and transform it into the most

fashionable designs of garments.

Activity:

1. Bring/show at least three different types of fabric and determine what is the best

design for this type of fabric and why.

2. Watch and evaluate a video on choosing the right fabric.

3. Watch a fashion show and assess the clothes based on the topic for the day.

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Chapter 4: Care of Clothes

Objectives:

1. Learn how to take care of the different types clothes.

2. Apply the proper way of washing and ironing clothes.

3. Share/give their assessment after their classmates demonstrated on proper washing

and ironing of clothes.

How to Wash of Your Clothes

1. Pay Close Attention to the Insides of Collars. It is here that stains can creep up

from skin products, like lotion or makeup. Be sure to wash them immediately, especially

before hanging shirts in the closet (scroll down for tips on how to remove stains).

2. Avoid Dryers. They will break down the fibers of the fabric and cause the garment

to shrink and age prematurely.

3. Instead, Air-Dry on Hangers. Colban prefers wooden ones. “The width of the

hanger should not overpass the width of the shirt shoulders. Make sure the shoulders

are well laid on the hanger and more generally, pull a little bit the fabric of the shirt to

limit wrinkles (this will facilitate ironing).” When storing hangers in the closet, she

suggests leaving space between them — to keep the pressed shirts smooth.

4. Rewash Stains. “Before ironing, it is important to check that there are no more

stains. If there are, wash the shirt again.”

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5. Iron With Water. Colban advocates for steam or no steam, whatever you prefer, but

cautions against completely dry ironing. “It is better to iron the shirt when it is still humid.

If necessary, a spray with water can make ironing more easy.”

6. Iron in Order. The correct ironing order is: collar, cuffs and then the rest of the shirt

7. Pack Them Well. Before traveling with a dress shirt:

1. Button the shirt completely.

2. Put a plastic or cardboard band — the kind that come inside new shirts from the

store, or from the cleaners — inside the collar (to help support the collar and

maintain its shape.)

3. With the shirt front-side down, place a sheet of paper or tissue paper on the back

of the shirt before folding it (to avoid creases).

4. Use soft cases, like these, to keep the shirts in good condition.

5. When piling the shirts, alternate their directions.

Insider Tip: Wrinkle-Free Traveling. “I travel with a small spray bottle, and then I fill it

with water,” says Bruce Pask, Bergdorf Goodman’s men’s fashion director. “When I

unpack, I just give the shirts a quick spritz and tug on the bottom of the hem, and then

the wrinkles kind of come out naturally without needing to press it again.”

T-Shirts

The designer Tony Melillo, whose eponymous line of super soft T-shirts (ATM) is

beloved by T’s web editors, wears a white T-shirt almost daily. Here are his simple tips

for taking care of them.

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Wash Gently. Melillo suggests washing T-shirts with cold water and drying on

permanent press to avoid wrinkles. Also, try OxiClean. “I’m not saying it’s going to take

away pit stains but I put it in everything.”

Stash Carefully. Folding T-shirts keeps them fluffy. Melillo suggests folding in the

sleeves toward the back, and then folding the T-shirt in half once crosswise, to avoid

creating extra creases. And keeping them in a light stack on the shelf. Don’t hang your

T-shirts: He says it creates unsightly hanger marks, and it stretches them — T-shirts

can grow an inch just from gravity’s effect on cotton.

How to Starch Shirts Like the Laundry at Home

Written by

Mary Marlowe Leverette

If you like your shirts to look and feel crisp, then you probably rely on a professional

laundry service to handle their care. But believe it or not, you can capture the sharp and

professional look of a "stiff as a board" fabric at home. There are just a few things that

you should know and by following these tips, you'll save time and money by making fewer

trips to the cleaners.

Here's What You Need to Iron Like a Professional

Before You Begin

One of the keys to successfully getting a shirt to look and feel crisp is selecting the right

type of fabric. The shirt must be made of a woven fabric. You cannot achieve a crisp shirt

with a knit fabric.

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Shirts made of natural fibers like cotton or linen will hold the starch and crispness much

better than a fabric made from a blend of natural and synthetic (cotton/polyester) fibers or

a hundred percent synthetic fabric. If the shirt is labeled dry clean only, it will be difficult to

add the right amount of starch necessary to make it crisp.

Always start the process with a freshly-washed, stain-free shirt.

When to Iron Wool Clothes

Wool and cashmere are on the delicate end of the spectrum when it comes to

fabrics for clothing. Therefore, great care must be taken to ensure that the

cleaning process doesn't damage the the fibers, which come from sheep, goats,

alpaca, and llama.

Ideally, wool and cashmere clothes should be hand-washed, though they can be

machine-washed on the delicate cycle using shampoo formulated for thee

garments. Stay away from chlorine bleach, as even dilute solutions of chlorine

bleach will cause permanent yellowing, color loss, stiffening and weakening of

wool. Additionally, never place any wool or cashmere garment in an automatic

dryer—you will end up with a shrunken garment that is often impossible to restore.

Structured wool clothes, such as outer coats, blazers and men's suit coats, should

always be dry-cleaned. While the exterior wool fabric is washable, the fabrics used

to create the inner structure may be destroyed or become misshapen when

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washed. There is no way to reverse the damage once this happens.

Activity:

1. Two-three students will demonstrate on washing and ironing of clothes.

2. Watch a video on ironing clothes.

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Chapter 5: Small Business in Clothing

Objectives:

1. Aware that they can put up their own on-line textile business with no or little

investment.

2. Develop characteristics of a good entrepreneur.

3. Learn the requirements in planning a business and inspire them to put up their own

business.

Nine (9) Steps to Starting Your Own Textile Business

The textile industry can be regarded as one of the most active in recent times. Hopefully

it will continue to gain strong ground in times to come, as well. If the idea of opening a

textile business has fascinated you, it is time to take some action.

Being in the textile industry means having close connections with the world of fashion

and designing since textile businesses supply fabrics to these subsidiary industries.

There are two types of textile businesses, one that includes chains of stores selling all

sorts of fabrics and the other that includes small stores that sell only a few, particular

types of fabrics.

Therefore, if you are planning to make a fortune in the textile business, you must first

decide what kind of textile you want to sell. Before you get the idea rolling, make sure

you are sure about where you are headed.

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Planning the Business

Photo Credit: Wikimedia

1. Know the Market

It is always a good idea to take advice from those who are already in the business about

the market and the challenges it entails. However, before you take the plunge you must

have an idea about the following:

a) Product Demand

It is important to understand the nature of demand for the particular type of fabric you’re

planning to sell. Demand may not be same everywhere so you should carry out an

area-wise survey to determine it.

b) Competition

If there is another store in the same locality selling similar products that you intend to

sell, then try to discover what you can do to outplay them.

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c) Pricing

Pricing is an important factor in any kind of business. Try to price your products as

competitively as possible.

2. Research

If you want your textile business to be a successful venture, you cannot underplay the

importance of good research. You need to understand your customers, what they seek

and also what your competitors are doing. There are other considerations to make as

well, like the kind of capital you would need to start the textile business, your funding

options, steps you need to take to promote your business, the type of licensing your

business needs and much more.

3. Connect with Vendors for Textile Printing and Production

If you are planning to start a business in textile printing or production you should begin

to look for the vendors supplying the raw materials needed for that purpose. Latex

products are used by many in the textile markets for digital textile printing.

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Photo Credit: Wikimedia

4. Find the Fabric

You should start contacting manufacturers and vendors to decide the type of fabric

you’d like to carry. You need to maintain caution when purchasing high-quality fabrics or

a wide variety of them. If you want you can also check up on some unique fabrics

outlets or local artisans specializing in hand dying fabrics or weaving textiles. Such

types of fabrics will add value to your regular offerings.

5. Manage the Cash Flow

Even if you have already arranged for the capital to start your small business, owning a

small business credit card would allow you to take care of the recurring charges and

make secure online purchases. You might even be entitled to a number of extra benefits

like cash back offers on certain purchases.

6. Location

Whether it’s a shop for selling textile products or a factory that produces textiles,

location is a major factor that influences the success and growth of your business. If it is

a factory, make sure it is well connected. At the same time it should also have an

abundant supply of water and electricity. For shops, it should be located in an area

frequented mostly by your target buyers.

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7. Time Management

Mastering the art of managing time is crucial to the success of any business. If you are

constantly running short of time and in the process missing out on important tasks, it is

time you learned effective time management.

8. Transportation

An important consideration in your textile business will be transportation. You must

include the cost of transportation in your budget before starting any business venture.

Photo Credit: Wikimedia

9. Advertise for your business

You need to let people know

about the new business you’re

going to start or have already started. Spread the word to as many prospective buyers

as possible. You can expect a good start to your business if more people are already

aware of it beforehand. Social media marketing and online marketing are some of the

most powerful tools these days. You can effectively reach out to a large number of

target buyers by using these tools. Signing up for Twitter or creating a new page on

Facebook can get you started along these lines.

To start a textile business you need to first make sure that you have gathered enough

knowledge not only about establishing the business but also about the product you
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intend to sell. In-depth knowledge of fabric, in this case, such as how it is made or how

to produce better quality than your rivals will help you climb the ladder of success.

On-line Apparel Business/Clothing Business/Garments

Business/Retailing

If you are starting your own online clothing store, this guide answers all of
the following questions-

• How to create an online apparel store?

• How to create an online clothing store?
• How to start a clothing website?
• How to start your own online clothing business?
• How to start an online clothing store?
• How to start your own clothing store?
• How to start an online children’s clothing business?
• What is the start-up cost for a clothing store?
• How to create a website to sell clothes?
• How to start your own clothing website?
• How to start an online store for clothing, apparel, or garments?
• How to create a fashion startup business plan?
• How to start a successful online clothing store?
• How to plan to start an online clothing business?
• How to start an online clothing store with no money?
• How to prepare a fashion company business plan?

Apparel Photo from Shutterstock.

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Start Selling & Open Online Apparel Business

Following things should be considered while starting an online store with no money:

1. Identify Your Clientele And Research Your Market

Targeting everyone in the initial stages can lead to a lack of a targeted inventory and

confusing marketing. KYC – know your customer – is far from simply a banking norm. It

is the foundation of a well thought and painstakingly planned business. Thus, identify

your target customers, i.e., whether you wish to begin with catering to men, women or

children, or any combination of these. Look into niche verticals as well, such as clothing

for curvy or ‘plus-sized’ women, maternity wear for office goers, traditional apparel that

is handmade/ handwoven by Indian artisans, and the like. Remember to start with a

narrower clientele. Know that you can expand with time, so don’t try to do it all at once.

When researching your market, you need to target your competition, your product, and

the future market for your offering.

• Another KYC, Know Your Competition, is the key. Know what they’re selling,

who is buying from them, what is their marketing strategy. Understand what

they are doing and how they are doing it so that you can do it better.

• Get feedback on your clothing from your network of friends and family to have

an intimate and honest survey. Ask them what they liked and what they didn’t,

and what they would feel happy buying. Make notes.

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 • Be sure to take into account market research conducted by third-parties, such

as this one:

Image Source: Wazir Management Consultants

2. Business Plan and Startup Capital

A business plan is a charter of the various aspects of a business, how they blend, and a

prediction of what the expected outcome is. The variables of your business

plan (manpower, storage/ warehousing, marketing, sales, costing and corresponding

fund requirement, delivery logistics) will depend on the model which you choose-

whether you manufacture apparel and wish to further sell it in wholesale, or if you wish

to only retail, or if your business structure is to procure from a wholesaler and then

retail, or simply to dropship. Decide what, how much, and when you will be sourcing the

fabrics and the material.

Your clothing apparel business plan and requirement of capital will be formulated in

tune with the model (or combination of models) you want to premise your business

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upon. Now get your startup capital ready, it could be your savings or loans from

friends/family or bank or could be raised capital from the third-party. Therefore, you

must have a fashion startup business plan.

3. Flaunt your Unique Selling Point (USP) and Decide on the Brand Name

Define your USP. It sets you apart from your competition. It can be the fact that your

fabric is sourced from fair trade shops or is organic, or that you offer custom tailoring at

home or that you donate one piece of clothing to a child in need for every online

purchase, etc. Remember, every online apparel business/store sells cloth, but what

makes it different from another is its USP. So, flaunt your USP and let your clientele

know that you offer the ‘x’ factor, which your competitors do not.

Next is to give a name to your unique offering. The name of your brand is what people

will identify you with. It must define your products, must resonate with your USP, and

should be short and catchy! Make sure it is available for Business Name Registration

and domain names.

Delve into different languages and try to come up with a name, which would give the

consumer a glimpse into the experience he/ she will have with your products. Do not

shy away from using help from professionals and online tools such as Wordoid.

• 4 Things You Should Start with to Market Your Brand

• 5 Branding Mistakes You Need to Stop Making Right Now

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4. Decide what eCommerce platform you will take in selling online

Now when you have decided on your target and offers time to decide how you wish to

be seen online, there are many possibilities vis-à-vis how to make your brand go live.

Gauge the pros and cons of each. Check out other e-tailers’ websites- how are they

showcasing themselves online? See bigger brands, as well as niche brands. Assess

what characteristics you like, what is a must-have, and what you despise. You can,

(i) Create your web store from scratch,

(ii) Offer your products on online marketplaces such as Amazon, Myntra, and Jabong;

or

(iii) You may opt for a SaaS (Software as a Service) e-commerce solution

Creating a web store from scratch will need you to hire a team of professionals

(programmers, designers). Though this option will give the exact store which you

visualized, it could be a time and intensive money process as you need to pay for each

aspect, be it buying a domain name, hosting, website designing, security, coding, and

everything. It is a good option only if you have a successful existing online business and

are looking to scale due to huge demand.

An online marketplace is a reasonable option, as it allows you to list your products/

catalog on its website at a low initial cost and might give you volume sales. But for that,

you either need to be an old player or have good company reviews and lower prices.

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Online marketplaces also have a commission on the sale of your products and brand

building would be negligible.

SaaS platforms do not need a techie to manage your online apparel business website. It

is easier than self-hosting because you can have a website set up in 30 minutes and a

monthly price as low as INR 1000 / month. For creating your brand, it is better than

marketplaces. Moreover, some service providers offer the DIY option, so you get your

shop the way you envisioned it. Be sure to execute non-disclosure and confidentiality

contracts with your host.

ZDNet Survey: Reasons why businesses are opting for SaaS

Image Source: ZDNet

5. Get Your Domain Name

You can buy a domain name from hosts like GoDaddy or BigRock. Get it registered for

a trademark, so you deal with no legal issues in the future. But when you opt for a SaaS

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platform, you get it here only. The latter would gather all your tech work under one

umbrella, ensuring responsibility and accountability, and reducing the number of

verticals you would have to deal with.

It makes good business sense to purchase the additional domain endings like .com,

.net, .in, and other such available and applicable TLDs. It would ensure that consumers

reach your website even if they remember the domain name incorrectly.

Ensure that you get SSL (Secure Sockets Layer) certification from your host. It ensures

that sensitive information, such as credit card numbers and login information, is

encrypted while being transmitted. It is important to instill confidence in your clientele

while they purchase products from your website.

6. Get, Set and Load Your Website with Information

(i) Few must-have pages – Know Us Better, Stunning Collection Categories, FAQs,

Sizing (International Size Chart), Shipping, Returns, Feedback or Contact Us, The

Weave (a blog of sorts, with creative and relevant information regarding cloth/ textile in

general and your apparel in particular).

(ii) Upload high definition photographs – This is critical, as you must ensure a

visually enthralling experience for your consumers. Especially for online apparel demo,

multiple views and zoom in the photograph are a must so that the viewer can have a

closer view of the fabric. Better hire professionals and go for the model shoot as it gives

an idea to the viewer how the apparel will look like when worn. Consult a lawyer – apply

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for copyright for the photographs of your ensembles; they are your online business

assets and need protection.

(ii) The Size Chart – Upload the sizes available along with the size chart guide. It is

very critical when targeting women section for fashion apparel.

(iii) The Descriptions – Upload detailed descriptions of your ensembles. Integrate your

content with Google keywords on Google Adword, and ensure you have professional

help with Search Engine Optimization (SEO) techniques and tools – it increases your

online visibility exponentially.

(iv) Finalize the prices of your ensembles– Keep it relative- know how your

competitors have priced their products. Take into account shipping costs, and do not

charge a bomb for delivery.

(iv) Cataloging – User-friendly catalogs make shopping quick, fun, and easy for your

customers. Showcase your unique and new arrivals on your front page. Segregate the

products under different collections like formal, casuals, nightwear, etc. Keep the color

variants along with the size of the selection. Also, don’t forget to set up cross-sell and

up-sell opportunities. They generally increase bag value.

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7. How Will You Deliver?

Fulfilling your customers’ orders on time and safely is key to success. It needs to be

decided before you finalize your prices as for how you will determine the cost of

shipping, which you have to integrate into your products’ pricing.

Consider whether you want to have your team which carries out the delivery of orders,

or an independent delivery/logistics team. Do you wish to have a huge inventory and

warehouse all of it, or would you try dropshipping? You could have a slab based costing

for shipping. For instance, for orders up to INR ‘X’, you could charge your basic shipping

cost. For orders from INR ‘X’ to ‘5X’, you could charge a tad less, and for orders above

INR ‘5X’, shipping could be free. In case you offer free shipping (which is very attractive

to online consumers), ensure that you absorb the cost of shipping in the cost of your

product as much as possible.

Some companies have become a one-stop-shop for online businesses, such as Purple

Stores. Not only will they set up your online apparel business, but offline as well, i.e.,

they provide you with logistics support for order fulfillment.

8. Rake in the ‘Cha-ching’!

Online payment can be made through credit and debit cards, internet banking, etc. Be

sure to integrate PayPal/Paytm and CC Avenue/Citrus Pay (choose the payment

gateway you wish, but keep multiple options – just in case one fails, there should be

another one available for consumers). Payment gateways have their commissions and

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set up costs, so be sure to investigate properly before deciding which one to use for

your website. Purple stores ties in the popular payment gateways into your website

(with the sole exception of their starter plan) for free.

• The Latest Technology that Helps Your Get Money Transferred Quickly and

Easily

9. Go Live, and Shout Out to the World!

Launch your website for online apparel business; plan a party with page 3 regulars or

persons from the textile/ clothing industry; start a blog regarding your business in

particular, and about textiles/ silhouettes in general; try and get news coverage.

10. Promote your Online Business, Online!

Social Media is everywhere – there is nowhere it cannot or has not reached. Use it to

promote your business, be it Facebook for business, Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest,

Youtube, Tumblr, or any other social platform. Come up with interesting hashtags,

slogans, and taglines. Make sure you apply for the copyright of taglines that qualify for

copyright protection.

Selling apparel online is a different ball game from creating and cultivating your brand of

the online apparel business. Although the latter involves a good deal of initiative,

planning, coordination, and implementation, just a few loyal consumers will make all the

work worth it! With professional help readily available for your technical, creative,

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logistical, and legal concerns – sometimes all under one roof, there exists no reason to

deny the world exposure to your fabulous creations! Go online, Sell big!

Activity:

1. Invite a young entrepreneur whose line is on apparel or fabric.

2. Watch video on successful entrepreneurs to inspire them to go into business.

References:
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pattern-for-cutting-understanding-fabric-grain-and-the-selvage-edge
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