January 27th, 2009
President
Chapter Officers
Gary Michel
The Capitol Flyer
Vice Pres.: Scott Bricker
Treasurer: Warren Yaun
Secretary: Pete Touhey
Contest: Carl Erickson
Raffle: Hank Lapa Contributions are highly encouraged! Please submit articles to the editor in person or
Web Site: Sunil Gupta
Editor: Paul d’Hedouville E-mail pdhedouville@[Link].
Future Meetings:
• Mar 3rd, Severn Modeling
Club of Anne Arundel World War I Tips and Tricks
County, Severn, MD, Tom
Roskelly (443) 871-4903
• Mar 4th, IPMS-NoVA,
Fairfax HS, Fairfax, VA
[Link]
• Mar ?, Washington Armor
Club
• Mar 17th, IPMS Washing-
ton, DC, Herbert Hoover
Middle School, Potomac,
MD, [Link]
• Mar ?, IPMS-Baltimore, Ruhl
Nat’l Guard Armory
Inside this issue:
Aligning and Rigging 1
Turnbuckles 6 Aligning and Rigging
The Eighty-Eight 7 Roden’s 1/72 Scale S.E.5a
by Glen Porter
Nurnberg Toy Show 8
Introduction
Upcoming Events 12
Raffle Revenue 13 The purpose of this article is not to provide a construction report on an entire kit,
October’s Contest 14 but to detail one of the possible ways to align and fit the top wing, and to rig a
Results WWI biplane. The subject model is Roden’s 1/72 scale S.E.5a.
Aligning the Top Wing of a British WWI Biplane
After building two of Roden’s kits and encountering problems with the alignment of the top wing, I was deter-
mined not to start another biplane until I had worked out a better method of assembly.
One factor contributing to the problem was that both earlier projects had twin-bay wings. This meant that I
had to deal with 8 inter-wing struts and 4 cabanes. In my haste, I tried to install them all at once. I would have
needed a few more hands to do this!
Although the final results were acceptable, especially for first efforts, there was no way I was going to try and
rig them.
Top Wing Alignment Jig
After discussing the issue with a few excellent WWI modelers and getting a different opinion from each, I
decided that I needed a jig. The only problem was that I had absolutely no idea how to build such a jig, and
was therefore no closer to finishing my stack of unbuilt biplanes.
The penny dropped when
I bought the Roden 1/72
scale S.E.5a biplane. I
noticed that the artwork
on the back cover was
drawn to a constant 1/72
scale. I figured that if I
taped the two interplane
struts to the artwork and
temporarily glued a piece
of styrene across the
struts, then the correct
angle and stagger would
be set. The only remain-
ing challenge would be to
ensure that the struts were vertical when secured to the wings.
Of course, this solution assumed that the artwork was 100% correct, and that any one of 100 other possible
mishaps would not interfere.
As it turns out, the plan worked well.
Fairly well anyway. I did not quite get the stagger correct, and this resulted in the top wing being positioned
too far forward and slightly low. It is not too noticeable though, because the slight discrepancy is the same for
the entire length of the upper wing. I consider the experiment is a success.
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Tips and Pitfalls of Top Wing Alignment
Here is a short list of additional tips and possible pitfalls that are helpful to keep in mind:
*
First, make sure that all of the interplane struts are the same
length. Do not assume that they are. If they
are not, it will throw the angle of the stagger out.
*
Also, be very careful when taping the struts to the artwork
as this will again effect the alignment on the finished model.
*
Measure the distance between the mounting holes on the
wing to make sure that it conforms with the box art and the
position of the locating pins on the ends of the struts.
*
Drill the holes for rigging before the model is assembled.
This procedure only applies to British biplanes or those with
individual struts. Some German biplanes such as the Fokker
[Link] and Pfalz [Link] have “N” shaped interplane struts
which are simpler to install. The Albatros D.V, on the other
hand, has vee struts and you will have to work out another
method to accurately align these.
Finally, not all of Roden’s kits have 1/72 scale artwork on
the back of the box. Under these circumstances you will
need to source accurate scale drawings from elsewhere.
Rigging
For a number of years now I have looked upon the task of rigging biplanes with horror. It was enough trouble
actually building the kits without subjecting myself to further potential for trouble at the very end of the project.
However, I was feeling ambitious after successfully implementing my top-wing solution, so I decided to have
a go at rigging my 1/72 scale Roden S.E.5a too.
What a big difference a little bit of rigging makes!
There are many different ways to rig a biplane, and many rigging materials available. If you have arthritic
hands (as I do) you may not even want to try it but, believe me, the results are worthwhile. Without rigging,
Page 3
my S.E.5a looked like a toy. With rigging it
looked, well, a bit less like a toy! You can
make up your own mind by looking at Brett’s
photos of my model.
The Rigging Process
I started by drilling holes to thread the rigging
before painting or gluing the top wing, and
before painting the top surface of the lower
wing. I also did not add the undercarriage un-
til I had finished the main rigging.
This is because I drill the holes all the way
through the wing. I have found that it is easier
to rig the model, then clean up, fill the holes
and paint the wings after rigging.
My thread of choice is monofilament (nylon invisible mending thread) as it is very strong and looks reasonably
to scale. With care, it can be tightened by applying heat similar to the method used with stretched sprue.
Before starting the
rigging, take care that the
glue on the top wing and
struts is completely set.
Also, do not use too
much weight when
stretching the rigging or
it might pull the wings
out of alignment or,
worse, break the bond of
the struts.
I cut a piece of thread
about double the length I
need and thread it
through both holes. I
then touch some
slow-setting super glue on a toothpick to the outside surface of the top wing where the thread is exposed.
When this has dried, I take the other end exposed at the bottom of the lower wing, add a small weight for
Page 4
tension, and repeat the gluing process.
It is preferable to start rigging from inboard-out, and to work on both sides of the model progressively. For
example, when you have finished the farthest inboard wire on the port side, start working on the equivalent
starboard side wire next.
Once the initial rigging is completed, the excess thread exposed from the top and bottom of the wings may be
sliced off with a sharp scalpel.
For rigging that enters the fuselage, I usually start with the fuselage end of the thread, adding a drop of super
glue and poking it into the hole.
When the rigging is complete, the remainder of the wings can be painted, followed by the adding of the
undercarriage. Remember that most biplanes had some sort of rigging on the undercarriage. This area can
have the same treatment as the wings, but don’t forget to let the plastic glue harden for around 24 hours be-
fore rigging here too.
Conclusion
I am not suggesting that this is the best or easiest method for rigging a biplane but, with care and time, a
good result can be achieved.
If you talk to other biplane modelers they may have alternate methods that you prefer. Either way, have a
crack at rigging your next biplane. It does make a big difference to the final appearance of your WWI biplane!
Page 5
How To Make a Turnbuckle
Page 6
The Eighty-Eight
A Visual History of German 8.8 cm Flak Guns in WWII
Written by David Doyle
Ampersand Publishing, Delray Beach, FL,
2008, 108 pages
Reviewed by Brian Nicklas
When I first started to seriously pay atten-
tion to stories about air combat in World
War II, I learned the term "Flak." What was
this mysterious demon, and why did people
fear it? I was watching "Twelve O'Clock
High" and other things on television that
seemed to mention this weapon a great
deal, and aircrew seemed to be pulled off
airplanes after a mission bandaged, cover
with a sheet, or perhaps worse, their bud-
dies just said "They got hit by flak."
Although an aircraft modeler, I built a tank or two, so when Tamiya issued a new model of the "Flak 88" I
snapped one up as soon as I cut enough lawns or babysit enough times to pay for it (dating myself?).
Of course, my introduction to the hallowed grounds of the Squadron Shop on Sligo Avenue in Silver Spring
and the National Air and Space Museum Bookshop allowed me to see many books that discussed flak in de-
tail, but it was some years later while working
at that same Museum that truly opened my
eyes.
A few co-workers came back from inspecting
aircraft in storage at the Paul Garber Facility
with a trophy. Under some sound deadening
padding in the rear fuselage of the B-26 aptly
named "Flak Bait" they had recovered a piece
of flak. Now all the tales of "he was hit by a
piece of flak and it took his head clean off"
became crystal clear. This was truly a deadly
nugget of metal. When the explosive charge
inside a flak shell is set off, it transforms a
Page 7
machined metal shell casing into a multitude of vicious
razor edged projectiles.
So how do they toss such a projectile up to the altitudes
where aircraft fly? And to a height where aircrews re-
quire supplemental oxygen? They do it with anti-aircraft
cannon - Flieger Abwehr Kanone, or FLAK for
short. Ampersand Publishing, producers of the fine Mili-
tary Miniatures in Review (MMiR) and Allied & Axis
magazines, has recently produced a volume detailing the
Flak 88 in its various guises. Covered are the early Flak
18, the later Flak 36 and 37, and the late war Flak 41.
The genesis and development of the Flak 88 is covered,
and large images cover the weapon in detail. Pictures
show the limbers or wheeled carriages that attaché to
the fixed support arms for transport, the Flak being
towed, assembled and placed, and of course in use. But
wait there's more to this weapon. If it has the power and
accuracy to lob a shell thousands of feet in the air, what
happens if the barrel is left horizontal? You have a high
velocity weapon with a pretty flat trajectory that can rip
right into opposing armor. The reputation of this device
was such that there was even a "Willie and Joe" cartoon
by Bill Mauldin where an intel soldier in the midst of an
interrogation of a German is saying to the pair of bedrag-
gled dogfaces "I'll tell ya when I find the one wot invented the 88." And Allied intelligence was very interested
in the 88. Many of the images in the book may be wartime, but they are of American troops examining the
Flak 88 and its related shells and equipment.
The book has sections on the Flak 18, 36, 37 and 41 in use, with additional sections showing each in de-
tail. There is a final section on the various supporting apparatus, such a searchlights and range-finders. This
last chapter really shows the variety of devices, but doesn't show them in the detail that the weapons chapters
show the various Flak 88s.
As a modeling reference, I doubt you'll find better on the 88. No matter if you are building a 1/72 scale coun-
terpart to your B-17, or one of the recent Dragon or AFV Club 88s for a 1/35th scale diorama, you'll be happy
with this volume.
Review copy purchased from Ampersand at the 2008 IPMS National Convention.
Page 8
Nürnberg 2009 Toy Show
By
Paul d’Hedouville
A few of the new releases and re-releases for 2009. Many more pictures are available at: http://
[Link]/Ausstellungen/Nuernberg2009/Bilder/Bilder_01/[Link] Many thanks to IPMS-
Deutschland for posting the pix online.
Page 9
Page 10
Page 11
Upcoming Events
March 2009
March 28th, Box Stock Rock 2009 BoxCon
Disciple Center, Heritage Unit
582 Leesville Road
Robert Doss 434-369-2047
March 28th, TRICON 2009
A.W. Beattie Career Center
9600 Babcock Bld.
Bill Dedig 412-781-7543
April 2009
April 4th, MosquitoCon 2009
Wayne PAL
PAL Drive
IPMS New Jersey
Bill Schwarz 732-567-3724
April 24th and 25th, NoreastCon 2009
McKinley’s/Clarion Hotel
South 3950 McKinley Parkway
IPMS Niagara Frontier
Bob Collignon 716-875-0234
Page 12
Raffle Revenue By
Paul d’Hedouville
The raffle was not held during the December meeting, therefore no new revenue is available to report.
IPMSDC’s monthly raffle revenue average is $26, based upon the $317 cumulative revenue that has been
received during the previous twelve months.
$80
$70
$60
$50 $50
$45 $45
$40 $40
$38
$35 $36
$30
$28
$20
$10
$0 $0 $0 $0 $0 $0
Dec-07 Jan-08 Feb-08 Mar-08 Apr-08 May-08 Jun-08 Jul-08 Aug-08 Sep-08 Oct-08 Nov-08 Dec-08
Monthly Expenses Raffle Rev Raffle Avg
Page 13
December Contest Results
Aircraft
1st Place: Pond Racer by Alex Bernardo
2nd Place: Bf 109D by Andrew Marriott
The IPMS Washington D.C. Chapter meets the third Tuesday of each month at 8:00 PM at Herbert Hoover Middle
School in Potomac, MD. See you there!
Herbert Hoover Winston Churchill
REGULAR REMINDERS Middle School High School
Montrose
Since we support the chapter through the proceeds from
the raffle, donations are always graciously accepted.
*
Tuckerman Seven
Locks I-270
We are always in search of new ideas for programs. If
you wish to contribute, please see the Vice President. Gainsborough
Democracy
Please do not sit at the model contest tables N
Remember to clean up any trash and help put the
tables away before leaving.
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