Sewing machine elements

CHAPTER 1
Sewing Needle
• A sewing needle is a long slender
tool with a pointed tip. The
needle must be able to
penetrate the material being
sewn, by pushing the yarns aside
according to the application,
without damaging it.
The Basic Functions of a Needle

• To make a hole in the fabric or

material
• To carry the needle thread
through the material or fabric
• To help form a needle thread
loop which can be picked up by
the hook or looper
Different parts of a Needle
1. Butt:
The starting part of the bottom edge of the needle can be made by a
predetermined shape. Butt helps for easily attaching the needle with the needle
bar or clamp of the sewing machine.
2. Shank:
Shank is the bottom part of the sewing needle which is tied in the needle bar. It
may be flat or cylindrical on one side. Shank is wider than the remaining parts of
the needle and works as support of the needle.
3. Shoulder:
The shoulder is the part between the shank and blade of the sewing machine
needle. When the needle penetrates through the fabric to reach its lowest
position then the shoulder also penetrates through the fabric. As a result, t
reduces the friction between fabric and needle by producing a wider hole on
fabric.
4. Blade:
The blade is the part from needle eye to shoulder. It is the longest part of the
needle and maximum friction with fabric takes place in this area. The blade is
gradually tapered to the tip.
5. Long groove:
A long groove is a long and thin groove in the blade from shoulder to needle
eye. Sewing thread takes place in this groove during up and down of sewing
machine needle through the fabric in sewing time, thus reduce the friction
between needle, fabric, and sewing thread. There is a lower possibility of the
damaging thread due to friction.
6. Short groove:
A short groove is placed on the side of the needle where the hook
or looper is placed. It is a small groove between the tip and the
needle eye. A short groove helps the sewing thread to create a
loop.
7. Needle eye:
The hole which is situated in front of the needle is called the eye. It
is a small slot between a long and short grove of the needle. The
needle eye holds the needle thread and helps to create a loop. The
inside edge of the needle eye is most important especially when
the needle passes through the fabric. Because there is a possibility
of damaging the thread.
8. Scarf:
The scarf is a curved slot near the eye. It helps to close the setting
between the looper and needle. As a result, it is easy to catch the
needle loop by the hook or looper.
9. Point:
Point is the part from the needle eye to the tip. It helps to
penetrate the needle into the fabric without any damages. Also,
proper care should be taken to select the needlepoint
appropriately for the fabrics.
10. Tip:
The ending edge of the needle is called the tip. Tip helps to
penetrate the needle into the fabric without any damages. It helps
to create holes in the fabric during sewing the clothing.
Types of Sewing Needle Point in Garments:

• In Apparel industry sewing needle point is varied according to the

garments, fabrics, accessories, and design. Different types of needle
point are used for the different sewing purpose on the sewing floor.
Generally there are two types of needle point used in garments. They
are as follows-
1. Cutting Point Needles
2. Cloth Point or Round Point Needles
1. Cutting Point Needles:

• Normally cutting point needles are used for sewing of sheet type
materials like plastic, leather or other materials.
• Because, in these materials there is no gap within the structure. So the
needle point must prepare sufficient hole in the material so that the
needle blade and thread can pass through it without excessive friction.
Mainly cutting points are divided into three types-
a. Wedge Point
b. Cross Point
c. Twist Point
Wedge point:
By using this cutting point, you create a lenticular (with a round shape that's thinner on the
edges and widest in the middle, like a lentil) incision that is made at right angles to the seam

direction. The result is a seam with high strength.

Cross point:
This cutting point causes a lenticular incision in your material. The
incision follows the direction of the seam. The result is a very straight
seam
Twist point:
When using this point shape, you achieve a lenticular incision with a
135° angle to the seam direction. The result is a slightly recessed,
straight seam.
Reverse twist point:
With this cutting point you achieve a lenticular incision. This is done at a 45°
angle to the seam direction. The result is a decorative seam inclined slightly
towards the left.
2. Cloth Point or Round Point Needles:

• The pointed needles which are used for sewing fabrics are called cloth
point or round point needles.
• The point of needle should be round in shape but the shape of tip
depends on the fabrics like woven or knitted fabrics as required.
• According to the fabrics cloth point needles are divided into two
types-
A. Set point Needle
B. Ball Point Needle
• A. Set Point Needle:
• There is a less possibility of fabric
damage with set point needle in
woven fabric instead of knitted fabric.
• Set point needles are mainly three
types-
• 1. Slim set point needle: Used for
sewing densely woven fabric or top
stitching like collar, cuff and pockets.
• 2. Medium set point needle: Most of
the fabric can be sewn by this type of
needle and open meshed knitted
fabric can also be sewn.
• 3. Heavy set point needle: Used for
sewing button holes.
• B. Ball Point Needle: Generally three types of ball point
• Generally ball point needles are used needles are used. They are as follows-
for sewing knitted fabrics. • Light ball point needle for knitted
Because:-“The threads in the knitted
fabrics are bounded in loop form. If fabric.
any thread of loop is drawn-off due to • Medium ball point needle for knitted
any reason, then the whole structure fabric.
of the fabric starts to be opened out.
For this reason the point of needle • Heavy ball point needle for knitted
should be as to prevent the opening fabric. (Widely used for finer needles)
of structure of knitted fabrics. As a
result ball point needles are used for
sewing this kind of fabrics”.
Needle Size
• Different needle manufacturing • For example, an NM 70 needle has
company have expressed the size of a blade diameter of .70 millimeters;
needle differently. a needle designated NM 130 has a
1. Number Metric or NM needle size blade diameter of 1.3 millimeters.
2. Singer needle size • NM sizing generally ranges from 35
1. Number Metric or NM needle size: to 200, in other words, 0.35 to 2
The NM needle size is expressed as based millimeters thick.
on the diameter of the blade of the needle
measured at the middle point of the • The most widely used needles are
[Link] metric size is the most easy and the 50, 60, 70, 80, 90 and 100 sizes,
most used system in other words, half a millimeter to
a millimeter thick.
2. Singer needle size:
• Singer products are widely used,
but they choose their own
designations. For example, a
Singer .70 millimeter blade
(which would be called a 70 in
NM nomenclature) is called a 10.
Since Singer's products are so
widely known, this size will often
be referred to as 70/10.
Looper
• Loopers are used to produce thread loops that extend from the needle
thread to the fabric's edges, enclosing the fabric's edges within the seam.
• It is located near the needle, the looper is a small, hook-shaped
mechanism that aids in the stitching process. The job of the looper is to
take the thread from the needle and pull it through the fabric to form a
loop. The loop is then released, and a stitch is made when the needle
catches it. Both upper and lower loopers can be found among the various
options for sewing machine loopers. The thread is pulled through the
fabric by the upper looper, which is situated above the fabric and directly
above the needle. When sewing, the upper looper raises the fabric, and
the lower looper, which is underneath, catches the thread and pulls it
through.
• In sewing machines, the looper is a critical component involved in forming
the stitches, particularly in machines that use multiple threads, such as
overlock or serger machines. Loopers are responsible for creating the
loops and interlocking them with the needle thread to form a secure
stitch.
Here are the main 4 types of loopers used in
sewing machines:
• Upper looper: The upper looper is positioned above the needle and carries the
upper thread. It creates a loop that interlocks with the lower thread to form the
stitch. In an overlock machine, the upper looper usually moves from left to right.
• Lower looper: The lower looper is positioned below the needle plate and carries
the lower thread. It forms a loop that interlocks with the upper thread to create
the stitch. In an overlock machine, the lower looper usually moves from right to
left.
• Chain looper: The chain looper, also known as the cover looper, is a type of looper
found in coverstitch machines. It forms a chain-like stitch on the underside of the
fabric while the needle thread forms parallel lines of stitching on the top side.
• Thread looper/Hook: Thread loopers are used in specialized sewing machines,
such as blind stitch machines or single thread chainstitch machines. They create
loops that are interlocked with the needle thread to create specific types of
stitches.
Looper
Bobbin
• A bobbin is the tiny spool of thread that sits in the bottom of your
sewing machine. It assists the upper thread by making stitches on
the bottom side of the fabric. It helps hold seams together. Front load
bobbins need a bobbin case. Top load bobbins don’t.
Types of Bobbins:

• 1. Drop-In Bobbin (also called a Top

Load Bobbin)
The bobbin fits into the arm of the
machine and is “dropped in” by
removing a plate in front of the
presser foot. The thread is then
pulled through the bobbin
mechanism to get “picked up” by
the needle. Once everything is
threaded, snap the cover back on.
Check the manual for directions to
make sure yours is threaded
properly.
• 2. Front-Load Bobbin
The bobbin fits into a metal
case, which then snaps into the
front of the machine. The
thread from the bobbin feeds
through the bobbin case before
being “picked up” by the
needle. Once everything is in
place, close the door.
Bobbin Cases.
• The bobbin case holds the
bobbin securely in place while
the sewing machine creates
stitches. It helps regulate the
thread as it passes through the
bobbin and provides a smooth
surface for the thread to pass
over as it feeds into the needle,
which helps prevent tangles and
knots.
Rotary hook
• The rotary hook is a key
component of a sewing
machine's mechanism that plays
a crucial role in forming stitches.
It is a part of the bobbin system
and works in conjunction with
the needle to create the stitches.
Functions of rotary hook
❑ Location and Design: The rotary hook is typically located beneath the needle plate, below the
needle. It is a small, round or crescent-shaped component with a pointed tip.
❑ Rotation: The rotary hook rotates in a circular motion as the sewing machine operates. It is driven
by the machine's motor or hand crank, depending on the machine type.
❑ Thread Catching: As the needle descends through the fabric, it creates a loop of thread. The rotary
hook's primary function is to catch the upper thread from the needle and carry it around the bobbin
case area.
❑ Interlocking the Threads: The rotary hook carries the upper thread around the bobbin case area,
where it intersects with the bobbin thread. The bobbin thread is simultaneously pulled up through
the fabric by the needle, and the rotary hook interlocks the upper and bobbin threads, forming a
secure stitch.
❑ Stitch Formation: The rotary hook's continuous rotation, in coordination with the needle's
up-and-down motion, ensures the proper formation of stitches. It catches the upper thread, pulls it
around the bobbin case, and locks it with the bobbin thread, creating a stitch.
❑ Bobbin Case Interaction: The rotary hook works in tandem with the bobbin case or shuttle. The
bobbin case holds the bobbin, which supplies the bobbin thread. As the rotary hook rotates, it
interacts with the bobbin case, allowing the bobbin thread to be caught and interlocked with the
upper thread.
WHAT IS FEED MECHANISM?
• Feed mechanisms is the basic
motion of needles, loopers or
bobbin, the material being sewn
must move so that each cycle of
needle motion involves a different
part of the material. This motion is
known as feed mechanism.
• The feed mechanism in sewing
machine is consist of three parts,
they are:
a) Pressure foot,
b) Throat plate, and
c) Feed dog.
Pressure foot
• This removable foot keeps fabric in
place as you sew.
• The pressure foot keeps the fabric flat so
that it does not rise and fall with the
needle and pucker as it is stitched.
• The pressure foot is often single
hinged(meaning: joined to another thing,
or joined together) to provide flexibility as
the workpiece moves beneath it.
• Different feet are appropriate for different
sewing techniques or fabrics. For example,
a zipper foot is used to install a zipper, and
a roller or nonstick foot for sewing leather
and oilcloth smoothly.
Throat plate Slot for feed dog

• This a metal plate, sometimes called a needle

plate, sits below the needle and presser foot.
• The throat plate is made of stainless steel and
its surface is very smooth. For the reason of
smooth surface, fabrics can easily be feed on it. Hole for needle
• In throat plate, there are one or more than one
slots in which feed dog can move forward or
backward.
• There is also a hole through which Hole for
the needle can move upward or downward. attaching work
The size of the needle hole should not go
beyond more than 30% of the needle size. If aid
the size of the needle hole is more than 30% of
the size of the needle, then during penetrating
of the fabric by needle, some portion of fabric
will also enter into the needle hole, which is
called the flagging.
Feed Dogs
• Sewing machine feed dogs are metal • The number and shape of slotted tooth on
teeth-like ridges that arise from a hole the surface of the feed dog may be of
in the throat plate between the various types, but the direction of the
presser foot and throat plate of a tooth will be kept slanted to the direction
sewing machine. at which the fabric will be fed.
• Feed dogs move as you sew, gently • For the light to medium weight fabric, the
gripping the bottom fabric to help it pitch of tooth is used between 1.3 and 1.6
pass through the sewing machine mm and the front part of the tooth is kept
and produce a high-quality stitch. to some extent rounded so that fabric is
• The feed dogs also regulate the stitch not damaged.
length by controlling how much fabric • For very light weight fabric, feed dog of 1
passes through at once. to 1.25 mm pitch tooth is used.
• For heavy weight 2.5 mm pitch is used
Feed Dog Teeth Pitch: Stitch Pitch:
• Feed dog teeth pitch refers to the • Stitch pitch refers to the distance between
distance between the teeth on the the stitches formed by a sewing machine. It
feed dogs of a sewing machine. The represents the length of each stitch, typically
feed dogs are responsible for moving measured in millimetres (mm) or stitches per
the fabric forward during the sewing inch (SPI). Stitch pitch can be adjusted on
process. The teeth pitch determines some sewing machines to achieve different
the amount of fabric that is advanced stitch lengths, allowing for versatility in
with each stitch. sewing projects. A smaller stitch pitch
produces shorter stitches, while a larger
Feed
dog
stitch pitch creates longer stitches.
teeth
Pitch

Stitch
Pitch
What will be happened if the Stitch pitch(Stitch
length and pitch of feed dog become equal?

• During the formation of seam if the Stitch pitch(Stitch length and

pitch of feed dog become equal, then fabric may be damaged due to
the reason of repeated striking of the tooth of feed dog to the same
place of fabric.
Types of sewing machine feed mechanism
• Drop feed,
• Differential bottom feed
mechanism,
• Puller feed,
• Needle feed,
• Unison feed mechanism,
• Adjustable top feed mechanism.
1. Drop feed system or Regular feed
mechanism:
• It is the simplest and most used feed mechanism.
• It uses a set of feed dogs, which are metal teeth that
protrude from the needle plate and pressure foot.
The feed dogs grip the fabric and move it forward
and backward as the needle stitches.
• In drop feed process, when two ply fabric is sewn,
the feed dog makes the lower layer of fabric to move
forward from the lower side of the fabric and the
upper layer fabric gets speed due to touch with the
lower layer of fabric and the pressure.
• The pressure foot always exerts pressure on the
fabric with the help of pressure spring and during
the moving forward of the fabric by feed dog, the
movement of the upper layer of fabric in the same
speed is blocked due to the friction with the
pressure foot.
Drop feed system or Regular feed
mechanism
Differential bottom feed:
• The feed dog used in this system is divided in
two different parts, this means in one part, the
needle remains in the front and in the other
part the needle remains in the back. Like the
mentioned feed dogs of the drop feed system,
the feed dogs of this system get speed. But the
two parts can be operated in the same speed
or in different speeds.
• This type of feed mechanism is commonly
found in serger machines or overlock machines
and also in lock stitch machine It allows for the
adjustment of the feed ratio between the front
and back feed dogs. Differential feed is useful
for preventing stretching or puckering of the
fabric, especially when working with knitted or
stretchy fabrics.
• Its used for stretching and gathering purposes.
Differential bottom feed:
Needle (Compound) feed mechanism:
• In this system the needle itself goes forward and backward.
• After the penetration of the needle into the fabric it gets
speed resulting the possibility of tendency of being the
bigger hole in the fabric made by the needle. In order to
avoid this problem, the needle feed mechanism is
adjustable with the drop feed mechanism which is called
the compound feed. After penetrating the fabric the needle
enters into the hole of the feed dog and for making the
advancement of the fabric for a step of one stitch length,
both the feed dog and the needle pass the same distance at
the same time. Then the needle coming out of the fabric
goes upward and coming forward a step, gets speed for
making of the next stitch.
• Wadding is attached with this mechanism.
• This system is very much suitable for sewing thick or hollow
fabric. For changing the stitch length, the strokes of both
needle and feed dog are required to change.
Needle (Compound) feed mechanism:
Adjustable/Variable top feed system:
• In this system, when fabrics of a number
of layers are sewn together, then speed is
given directly to the top layer of the fabric.
As a result, the top layer can be fed in the
same speed or in higher or lower speed
than the lower layers.
• There are two sections of the pressure
foot used in this process. When the needle
penetrate the fabric, then a section keeps
holding of the fabric and the pressure foot
of the other section moving a step
forward is placed and pressed on the
fabric and with the help of tooth speed of
the lower end it gives speed to the top
layer of the fabric that means feed it.
Adjustable/Variable top feed system:
Adjustable/Variable top feed system:
• Two types of modification is available in sewing
machine of Adjustable top feed system
1. Sewing machine Adjustable top feed system
with ordinary drop feed mechanism is
available
2. Sewing machine Adjustable top feed system
with differential bottom feed mechanism is
available
• The gathering of the top ply can be done on
the lower ply and also the gathering of the
lower ply can be done on the lower side of the
top ply by the machines available with
adjustable top feed and differential bottom
feed. Over edge stitching machine in
combination with adjustable top feed and
differential bottom feed is also available.
Unison feed/ “Walking foot” mechanism:
• The unison feed has been made by adjusting
the needle feed mechanism with positive top
and bottom feed.
• Here, the two pressure foot, one stays at the
middle of the other and they get speed in
different times.
• Due to needle feeding, the maximum activities
of the top and bottom feed are kept stop.
• But for the fabric whose sewing is very difficult
like sewing of adhesive surfaced fabric, this
type of feed mechanism is very much suitable.
There is no possibility of ply shifting during the
sewing of the fabric.
• This type of feeding system is not used for very
bulky and heavy weight materials
Unison feed/ “Walking foot” mechanism:
. Puller feed mechanism
• In this system, a pair of roller is used with
ordinary drop feed mechanism that means
just behind the pressure foot which keeps
the fabric layers pulling. Speed is given to
the upper roller directly from the machine
and the lower roller gets speed due to be
in touch and pressure of the upper roller.
• The puller roller is operated at a little
higher speed than the speed of the drop
feed and for this reason there is no
possibility of being ply shifting or roping.
• This mechanism is very much suitable for
sewing in multiple needled machine,
specially for making of waist band.
Stitch:
A stitch can be defined as, one unit of conformation resulting from one or
more strands or loops of thread intralooping, interlooping, or passing
through material.
Stitch quality:
Stitch quality is measured with;
∙ Stitch size
∙ Stitch length
∙ Width
∙ Depth
∙ Tension
∙ Sequence
∙ Elongation
∙ Elasticity/ Resilience
∙ Fabric distortion
∙ Yarn severance
∙ Abrasive strength
Stitch formation priciples:

Intralooping

When one loop of a thread is passed through another loop of same thread it is called
intralooping.

Fig: Intralooping Fig: Formation of intralooping

Interlooping
When one loop of a thread passes through another loop of another thread it is called
interlooping.

Fig: Interlooping Fig: Formation of interlooping

Interlacing
When one loop of a thread passes over another loop of another thread it is called
interlacing.

Fig: Interlacing Fig: Formation of interlacing

Classification of Stitch Class:

The six classes of stitches as given are
1. Class 100: Single thread chain stitches
2. Class 200: stitches originating as hand Stitches
3. Class 300: Lock stitches
4. Class 400: Multi thread chain Stitches
5. Class 500: Over edge Stitches
6. Class 600: Covering chain stitches
Stitch class 100 (Single thread chain stitches)- properties
•The chain stitch class 100 is formed with one or more needle threads that form a loop on the
underside of the fabric.
•In chain stitching; same thread is used to interconnect each loop. There is no lower thread.
•It can be easily removed and it is used for basting operations in tailored men swear and women's
wear.
•It can only be used where the marks of needle penetration close up afterwards in pressing.
•A basting operation, in positions such as edges, flaps, collars, and so on, is a temporary stitch,
allowing accurate placement of permanent stitches.
•Stitch can be easily unpicked from the last to the first.
•The appearance of face and back are different in apparel.
STITCH DIAGRAM STITCH TYPE THREAD COUNT TYPICAL USES
100 CLASS ONE THREAD BASTING, OR LIGHT
CONSTRUCTION

103 CLASS ONE THREAD BLINDSTITCH FOR

HEMMING

104 CLASS ONE THREAD BLINDSTITCH FOR

HEMMING
 Stitch class 200 (hand stitch) properties
•Stitch class 200 consists of hand formation of stitches done by hand with the exception of 205,which
simulates a hand
running stitch but is formed by a special machine.
•Typical types are basting stitches and back stitches.
•Same stitch as that of hand stitch is formed by a piece of thread.
•Thread is drawn in every stitch or every other stitch and the length of stitching is limited.
•Since friction is given at the same position of the sewing thread many times, the thread is untwined
during sewing resulting in thread breakage unless the thread is a high-durable one.
•Even when the sewing is made, the stitch looks broken. Therefore, the thread that can be used is
limited
•A slow process and need huge manpower to finish bulk order. Used for handwork.

STITCH DIAGRAM STITCH TYPE THREAD COUNT TYPICAL USES

202 Class One Thread Basting, Tacking
or Repairs

205 Class ONE THREAD Pick Stitch

Topstitchin
g
Stitch class 300 (lock stitch) properties
• The lock stitch class 300 is the most commonly used and is easiest to understand.
• Lock stitch machine requires 2 threads to form a stitch, a needle thread that feeds
from the top and a lower thread that feeds from a bobbin.
• A rotary hook or shuttle catches the needle thread loop as it passes around the bobbin
and interlocks the two threads.
• If a lock stitch thread breaks, the two threads used to form the stitch lock and the
whole line of stitches won't unravel.
• Lock stitch machines are versatile and can be used for a variety of operations.
• It is also the only stitch formation that can be back stitched.
• supplied from a bobbin on the other side. low bulk and thin, good strength and
abrasion resistance Poor elasticity, non ravel limited sewing length, need to replace
bobbin thread.

• Cant use for seams requiring stretch.

• Equal amount of needle and bobbin threads are used and upper and lower threads
interlocks in the center of the fabric.
• The 301 uses the least amount of thread and produces the flattest stitch.
• It is the tightest and most secured stitch among all stitch types.
• Because this stitch formation is the same on both sides of the seams, it is reversible
and used extensively for top stitching, especially along collar and cuff edges, and fronts
of jackets.
•

STITCH DIAGRAM STITCH TYPE THREA TYPICAL USES

D
COUN
T
301 Class Two Thread Seaming Multiple
Plies

304 Class Two Thread Zig-Zag Stitch; a

stretch lockstitch

306 Class Two Thread Blind Stitch

315 Class Two Thread Three Step Zig-

Zag; a stretch
lockstitch
Stitch class 400 (multi thread chain Stitches) properties
•The 400 class is the second most frequently used stitch type.
•This multi thread chain stitch requires one or more needle threads that form loops as they pass through the fabric and
interloop with the looper thread on the underside, all of which feed continuously from the cones.
•The 400 class requires an upper and a lower thread and use a looper to carry the lower thread and form a thread loop
on the
underside of the fabric.
•Machines producing 400 Class do not back tack although stitches can be condensed to secure the ends of the threads.
•non ravel, strong, good elasticity, less likely to cause seam pucker due to structural jamming.
•good seam stretch
•does not need to wind bobbin
•lower resistance to runback and have increased bulk under the seam

STITCH DIAGRAM STITCH TYPE THREAD COUNT TYPICAL USES

401 Class Two Thread Seaming Multiple
Plies with
moderate stretch

404 Class Two Thread Topstitching or

Seaming with
stretch

406 Class Two Thread Bottom Cover

Stitch; a (greater)
stretch
Stitch class 500 (overedge, overcast, over lock, serge, or merrow) properties
• The stitch types in this class are formed with one or more groups of threads, and have
as a general characteristic that loops from at least one group of threads pass around the
edge of the material.
• The loops form a narrow band of stitching along the edge of the fabric with threads
intersecting at the edge and preventing the fabric from fraying.
• All have high elasticity, they do not unravel easily, and a trimming knife on the
machine ensures a neat edge prior to sewing.
• These stitches are often called overedge, overcast, over lock, serge, or merrow.
• Overedge machines must have three stitch forming devices, a needle to carry the
thread through the fabric, a looper or spreader to carry the thread from the needle
to the edge of material on the bottom, and a looper or spreader to carry thread up
and over the edge of the material on the top.
• The various stitch types uses various combinations of these three devices
• Excellent stretchable
• Good recovery Seam or edge neatening
• suitable for many types of fabric subject to fraying or slippage.
STITCH DIAGRAM STITCH THREAD TYPICAL USES
TYPE COUNT

501 Class one Thread One Needle Overedge stitch for

Serging / "Blanket Stitch"

502 Class Two One Needle Overedge stitch for

Thread Serging /

503 Class Two Overedge stitch for Serging

Thread with Crossover on

504 Class Three One Needle Overedge stitch for

Thread Serging and Light Seaming
Stitch"

522 Class Four Mock Safety Stitch for

Thread Seaming with wide bite and
Greater Stretch for Knits

514 Class Four Overedge Stitch for Seaming

Thread with wide bite and Greater
Stretch for Knits
Stitch class 600 (flat lock or a flat seam stitch) properties
• The cover stitch or 600 class, often called a flat lock or a flat seam stitch, is an advanced version
of the 400 class and is used primarily on knits and lingerie.
• Machines producing the 600 class are extremely fast and efficient, operating at 9000 rpms.
• The stitch is formed by two or more needle loops passing through the material, Interlooping
on the underside and interlocking on the upper side.
• A spreader or cover thread finger carries the cover thread across the surface of the fabric
between the needles.
• These stitches, referred to as top and bottom cover stitches, are commonly used to cover both
sides of the seam with thread.
• Threads must be chained off and be crossed by another seam.
• This stitch class uses a lot of thread but provides excellent top and bottom cover and flat seams.
• Stitches in this class are most complex of all and may have up to nine threads in total including
four needle threads
STITCH DIAGRAM STITCH TYPE THREAD COUNT TYPICAL USES
• High elasticity, seam neatening and Flat seam stitch, Bulk, Fast machine speed No need of
Bobbin
602 CLASS Four Thread CoverStitch
• Greater thread consumption Covering stitches for decorative purpose, Can be used to join two or Seaming
raw edges, suitable for knitted garments. Knits

605 CLASS Five Thread CoverStitch

or
ButtSeams

607 CLASS Six Thread Wide

CoverStitch or
ButtSeams
Seam:
Assembles types of two or more ply of fabric pieces to join in a line by sewing, fusing,
glueing, stapling or any alternative joining methods is termed as seam.

Factors influence the Seam Properties:

The following are the factors of which seam properties depends on:

1. Seam Type: This is a particular configuration of fabric as required.

2. Stitch Type: It is most important point which deals with a particular

configuration of thread in the fabric.

3. Feed Mechanism of sewing machine: This is the mechanism by which the

fabric moves past the needles and enable a succession of stitches to be formed.

4. Needle size and Type: The needle size and type should be chosen
according to the seam properties required.

5. Thread size and Type: The thread size and type should be chosen
according to the seam properties required, i.e. flame proof, water proof etc.
 Seam Properties:

1. Seam Strength:
Seam strength should be lower or equal to fabric strength. If seam strength is higher than fabric
strength, then fabric may be break due to unexpected force to the fabric.
Seam strength depends on :
▪ Strength of thread used;
▪ Unbalance stitch;
▪ Stitch density;
▪ Seam type;
▪ Size of stitches;

2. Seam Elasticity:
Seam elasticity should be equal or higher than fabric elasticity. Otherwise, seam may be opened by
breaking of sewn thread in seam. Some fabrics or garments may be stretched of 100% or more. Seam
elasticity varies if the fabric is knitted or woven.

3. Durability:
Durability of seam should be equal or higher than that of fabric. A seam must be durable,
long lasting and not abrade (scrape) or wear easily during everyday use of the garment including
all necessary laundering.

4. Comfort:
The seam of the garments must be comfortable and do not create any problem while using.

5. Security:
Security is closely connected with durability. A seam need to be secure and not to unravel or broke
Types of Seam:
Seam Class 1- Superimposed Seam
Seam Class 2- Lapped Seam
Seam Class 3- Bound Seam

Seam Class 4- Flat Seam

Seam Class 5- Decorative Seam

Seam Class 6- Edge Neatening

Seam

Seam Class 7- Applied Seam (Lace/Elastic/ Joining over the

Edge) Seam Class 8- Enclosed Seam

Seam Class 1- Superimposed Seam
• These generally start with two or more pieces of material superimposed over
each other and joined near an edge, with one or more rows of stitches.
• This is most ordinary used seam.
• Generally the seam ends are in the same direction.
• Seam strength may be changed.
• This seam can be used for joining the fabric and neatening the edge.
• A superimposed seam can be sewn with a stitch 301 or 401 to create a simple
seam. The same seam type can also be sewn with stitch class 500 (Overedge
stitch) or Combination stitches (i.e. stitch class 516) to create neat load
bearing seams for lingerie, shirts, etc.

Superimposed Seam
 Seam class 2-Lapped Seams

∙ Two or more plies of material are lapped (i.e. with edges overlapped, plain, or folded) and
joined with one or more rows of stitches.
∙ French seaming or double lapped seam involves 2 stitching operations with an intervening
folding operation - a flat, folded seam with only one row of stitching. Visible on the top
surface, commonly used for rainwear.
∙ The single lapped, involves only one stitching operation - a strong seam with fabric
edges protected from fraying.
∙ Commonly used for making up jeans or similar garments

Figure-2(a): Single Lapped seam Figure-2(b): Double Lapped seam

 Seam Class 3- Bound Seam

∙ These are formed by folding a binding strip over the edge of the plies of material and
joining both edges of the binding to the material with one or more rows of stitching.
∙ This produces a neat edge on a seam exposed to view or to wear.
∙ Can be applied for both functional and decorative purposes.
∙ Folder must be required to produce bound seam.
∙ Mostly used for knit fabric than woven fabric.

Bound Seams
 Seam Class 4- Flat Seam

∙Two or more fabric ends are joined without overlapping.

∙ Seam can be made with the gap of the ends of the fabric for decorative purposes.
∙Generally twin needle sewing m/c is used to produce this type of seam where continuous binding can be made
by covering thread between needle threads
∙ Seam thickness is comparatively less.
∙Zigzag stitch causes sufficient stretch for knit fabrics.
∙ Neat join forms.
∙Before sewing, Edge should be cleaned.
Seam Class 5- Decorative Seam
∙ A series of stitches along a straight or curved line or following an ornamental design, on a
single ply of material.
∙ More complex types include various forms of piping, producing a raised line along the
fabric surface.
∙ This type of seam is made by making one or more adjacent stitch lines in one or more layer
of fabric.
∙ Multi-needle sewing machine is used.
∙ This type of seam is called decorative stitching.
∙ This seam is produced and used to increase the beauty or decorative value of fabrics.
Seam Class 6- Edge Neatening Seam
∙ Finishing the edge of a single ply of material by folding it or covering it with a stitch.
∙ The simplest of these operations is Serging,
∙ Seam class 6 in which a cut edge of a single ply is reinforced by overedge stitching to neaten
and prevent fraying Includes other popular methods of producing a neat edge like hemming
and Blind Stitch hemming.

Edge Neatening Seams

Seam Class 7- Applied Seam (Lace/Elastic/ Joining over the Edge)
Edge Finishing Seams Seams in this class relate to the addition of separate items to the edge of
a garment part.
They are similar to the lapped seam except that the added component has a definite edge on
both sides.
Examples would be a band of lace on the edge of a bra.

Seam Class 8- Enclosed Seam

∙ only one piece of material is involved in constructing the seam.
∙ The edges of fabric are sewn by folding in various ways.
∙ Folder is used to make the seam.
∙ Seam is made in one time completed by twin needle machine and folder.
∙ The commonest seam type in this class is the belt loop as used on jeans, raincoats,
etc.
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