KNIT & ACTIVE CONSTRUCTION

STANDARDS

THIS MANUAL DOES NOT INCLUDE ALL OF OUR STANDARDS; HOWEVER, IT

DOES HIGHLIGHT THE MOST IMPORTANT DETAILS.

ADDITIONAL DETAILED INFORMATION WILL BE DETERMINED BY TECH

DESIGN.

ANY DEVIATION FROM THESE STANDARDS MUST BE APROVED BY

TECHNICAL DESIGNER PRIOR TO THE START OF BULK PRODUCTION.

Table of Contents:
FABRIC & THREAD: .................................................................................................... 2
SEAMS & TOPSTITCH: ................................................................................................ 3
HEMS: ............................................................................................................................ 5
BINDINGS & BANDS……………………………………………………………………9
EDGE FINISHES.......................................................................................................... 15
SMOCKING & ELASTIC ............................................................................................ 18
POCKETS………………………………………………………………………………..23
DRAWCORDS…………………………………………………………………………..25
ADDITIONAL ACTIVE STANDARDS ....................................................................... 26
ZIPPERS……………………………………………………………………………..…..27
HEAT TRANSFER & LOCKER LOOPS ..................................................................... 29
BUTTONS, SNAPS & RIVETS.................................................................................... 30
FUSE & INTERFACING .............................................................................................. 31

1
FABRIC:
ALL FABRIC MUST BE TESTED FOR SEAM SLIPPAGE AT SAMPLING STAGE
AND UPON RECEIPT OF BULK FABRIC. IF SEAM SLIPPAGE IS FOUND, ALL
SEAMS MUST BE FUSED WITH DTM TRICOT FUSIBLE.

THREAD:

MICRO-FILAMENT TEXTURED POLYESTER THREAD MUST BE USED ON ALL

LOOPERS FOR ALL COVERSTITCH, OVERLOCK, AND CHAINSTITCH
APPLICATIONS ON ALL KNITS UNLESS OTHERWISE APPROVED BY
TECHNICAL DESIGNER.
*COATS SEAMSOFT THREAD IS PREFERRED

***ALL SPI ARE STANDARD REQUIREMENT, UNLESS OTHERWISE

REQUESTED.

***ALL SEAMS SHOULD STRETCH TO FULLEST EXTENSION OF THE FABRIC

WITHOUT BREAKING THREADS

***ANY BASTING STITCHES USED TO SET SEAMS FOR ANY APPLICATION

MUST BE CRACKED BEFORE SHIPPING

***MESH/PRINTED FABRICS SHOULD ALWAYS BE BOTTOM PLY OF LAPPED

SEAM UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED OR NOT POSSIBLE

***FOR ACTIVE: ALL SEAMS MUST BE CONSTRUCTED AS FLAT AS

POSSIBLE WITH CONSIDERATION FOR COMFORT OF THE WEARER IN MIND.

2
SEAMS & TOPSTITCH:

ISO#301: SINGLE NEEDLE LOCKSTITCH

*10-12 SPI
ISO#304: ZIGZAG
*8 CYCLES PER INCH
ISO#304: BUTTON SEW (4-HOLE)
*16 PER BUTTON
ISO#304: BUTTONHOLE (1/2”)
*85-90 PER BUTTONHOLE
ISO#304: BARTACK (1/4”)
24-28 PER TACK
ISO#401: CHAINSTITCH
*POLY PUFF THREAD S/B USED ON THE LOOPER
10-12 SPI
ISO#404: ZIGZAG CHAINSITCH
10-12 SPI
ISO#406: 2 NEEDLE BOTTOM COVERSTITCH
14-16 SPI
ISO#407: 3 NEEDLE COTTOM COVERSTITCH
14-16 SPI
ISO#408: 2 NEEDLE CHAINSTITCH WITH COVER THREAD
12-14 SPI
ISO#502: PURL MERROW
22-26 SPI
ISO#503: 2 THREAD OVEREDGE
*ALSO USED FOR BLINDSTITCHING AND PULLED MERROW STITCH
12-14 SPI
ISO#504: 3 THREAD OVEREDGE (COMMON)
12-14 SPI
ISO#505: 3 THREAD OVEREDGE (DBL PURL)
12-14 SPI
ISO#512: MOCK SAFETY STITCH
12-14 SPI
ISO#514: DOUBLE NEEDLE 4 THREAD OVEREDGE
*STANDARD APPLICATION FOR ALL KNIT SEAMS
12-14 SPI
ISO#516: 5-THREAD SAFETY STITCH
*STANDARD APPLICATION FOR ALL SAFETY SEAMS
12-14 SPI
ISO#602: 2 NEEDLE 4 THREAD COVERSTITCH
14-16 SPI
ISO#605: 3 NEEDLE 5 THREAD COVERSTITCH
14-16 SPI
ISO#607: FLAT SEAM14-16 SPI

3
ISO#605 STRADDLING SEAM

ISO#605 ALONG SEAM

ISO#607

4
HEMS:

ALL TURN BACK AND STITCH HEIGHT SPECIFIED BY TECH

H001:
TURN BACK W/ ISO#406

TOP VIEW BOTTOM VIEW

H002:
TURN BACK W/ ISO #602

H003:
TURN BACK W/ ISO#605

5
H004:
ISO#504, TURNBACK AND ISO#401

H005:
PULLED MERROW (ISO#503)

H006
BLINDSITICH (ISO#503)

6
H007
CLEAN FINISHED

H008
SCARF HEM

H009
CLEAN FINISH FACING W/ 2N #301 LOCK STITCH (CAN ALSO USE SN)

7
H010
FACING SET W/ #602

H011
FACING SET W/ #605

8
BINDINGS AND BANDS:

STITCHING AND BINDING/BAND HEIGHT TO BE SPECIFIED BY

TECH.
BINDING JOIN SHOULD BE SET 1” TO BACK OF SIDE SEAMS
AND/OR SHOULDER SEAM – UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED

B001:
OVER EDGE BINDING (FOLDED EDGE)

B002:
INSIDE BINDING

9
B003 – BINDING JOIN OPTION 1
PRESS OPEN BINDING SEAM ALLOWANCE & SECURE WITH BARTACKS AT
EACH SIDE

B004 – BINDING JOIN OPTION 2

PRESS ALL BINDING SEAM ALLOWANCE TO BACK & SECURE WITH
BARTACK

B005
OVER EDGE BINDING - RAW CUT EDGE AT INSIDE

10
B006:
OVER EDGE BINDING - RAW CUT EDGE AT OUTSIDE

B007:
OVER EDGE BINDING WITH TRIM CENTERED OVER SEAM AT INSIDE

B008:
OVER EDGE BINDING WITH INSIDE BINDING CENTERED OVER SEAM AT
INSIDE

11
B007:
INSIDE NECK BINDING - ARMHOLE TO ARMHOLE - ACROSS BACK NECK

B008
INSIDE NECK BINDING – SHOULDER TO SHOULDER – ACROSS BACK NECK

B009:
INSIDE NECK BINDING – BACK RAGLAN TO BACK RAGLAN – ACROSS BACK
NECK

12
B010:
INSIDE NECK BINDING – FRONT RAGLAN TO FRONT RAGLAN – ACROSS
BACK NECK

B011:
BAND FOLDED EDGE SET WITH MERROW

B012:
CLEAN FINISHED BAND

13
B013:
BAND RAW CUT EDGE AT OUTSIDE

B014:
TWISTED BAND

**SELF/RIB NECK BANDS MUST BE UNDER CUT TO LAY FLAT TO BODY

NECK BAND MUST BE CUT 1” TO 1 1/2" SHORTER THAN TOTAL NECK

LENGTH OF BODY, STRETCH NECK BAND TO FIT NECK EDGE WHEN
SEWING.

14
EDGE FINISHES
ANY TRIMS AND TOPSTITCHING TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH

E001:
MERROW EDGE – ISO#504

E002:
PEARL MERROW EDGE (FLAT) - ISO#502

E003:
PEARL MERROW EDGE (LETTUCED) - ISO#502

15
E004:
TRIM SET FROM UNDERSIDE

E005:
TRIM SET ON TOP SIDE & CLEAN FINISHED W/INSIDE BINDING

E006:
PICOT STITCH (ISO#411) (CAN BE ATTATCHED TO EDGE OF BINDING,
FOLDBACK, BAND EDGE, ECT… TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH)

16
E007:
SCALLOP STITCH

E008:
TRIM SET ON TOP WITH SPECIFIED STITCH

E009:
TRIM SET ON TOP & CLEAN FINISHED INSIDE.

17
SMOCKING & ELASTIC:
ALL SMOCKING SPACING, TOPSTITCHING, ELASTIC WIDTH, AND
SHIRR RATIOS TO BE SPECIFIED BY TECH
ELASTIC QUALITY SUBJECT TO TECH APPROVAL

S001:
ELASTIC SMOCKING WITH CHAINSTITCH BACK

S002:
ELASTIC SMOCKING STITCH - MULTINEEDLE (TAJMAI, TAIS, KANSAI)

S003:
ELASTIC SET TO INSIDE WITH SPECIFIED STTICH

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S004:
TUNNELED ELASTIC WITH CLEAN FINISH INSIDE

S005:
ELASTIC MERROWED TO EDGE, TURNBACK AND TOPSTICH

S006:
HIDDEN ELASTIC IN FOLD. SET WITH COVERSTITCH ON INSIDE ONLY
*NO STITCHING OR SHIRRING S/B VISIBLE ON OUTSIDE OF GARMENT

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ELASTIC:
ELASTIC SHOULD BE SEWN INTO SEAMS WHEN POSSIBLE
*DO NOT SEW ELASTIC ON TOP OF SEAM ALLOWANCE!!

E001:
KNITTED ELASTIC:

E002:
WOVEN ELASTIC

E003:
CLEAR ELASTIC – MOBILON TAPE

20
E004:
SILICONE GRIP ELASTIC (OR STICKY TAPE)

E005:
PRE-FOLDED ELASTIC:

E006:
BRA STRAP ELASTIC

21
EXPOSED ELASTIC SEAMING:

E007:
ELASTIC JOINED WITH #607 FLATLOCK (FLAT SEAM)

E008:
ELASTIC SEAMED WITH #301 & FINISHED WITH #605

E009:
ELASTIC SEAMED WITH #301, PRESS OPEN & FINISH WITH 2N #301
STRADDLE SEAM

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POCKETS
POCKET PLACEMENT, DIMENSIONS, AND STITCHING TO BE
SPEFIED BY TECH
POCKETS SHOULD HAVE BAR TACKS AT OPENINGS
SOME EXAMPLES:

ON SEAM POCKET

KANGAROO POCKET

23
HIDDEN POCKETS (ACTIVE)

24
DRAWCORDS:
ALL DRAWCORDS SHOULD BE SHIPPED TIED IN SINGLE KNOT BOW AT CF

NON-CONTINUOUS DRAWCORDS SHOULD CROSS BEHIND EXIT POINT AT

CF BEFORE EXITING THROUGH OPPOSITE EXIT POINT

CONTINUOUS DRAWCORDS MUST EXTEND TO MEET THE FULL EXTENDED

WAIST (OR SLEEVE/LEG OPENING) MEASUREMENT.
TACKED ENDS MUST NOT PULL THROUGH

25
ADDITIONAL ACTIVE CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS:

26
ZIPPERS:

ZIPPER WITH FACING/GUARD:

(WHERE REQUESTED)

27
ZIPPER GARAGE

ZIPPER GARAGES (WHERE REQUESTED) SHOULD BE 2-PLY WITH FOLDED

EDGE AT OPENING. CLEAN FINISH INTO SEAMS.
GARAGE SHOULD BE DEEP ENOUGH TO CONCEAL ZIPPER HEAD

ZIPPER TAPE FINISHES

ZIPPER TAPE & SEAM ALLOWANCE CLEAN FINISHED WITH BINDING

ZIPPER TAPE & SEAM ALLOWANCE CLEAN FINISHED WITH FACING

28
HEAT TRANSFERS:

HEAT TRANSFER LABELS MUST BE APPLIED ACCORDING TO SUPPLIERS

INSTRUCTIONS.

TECH MUST BE NOTIFIED IF HEAT TRANSFER DOES NOT PASS WASH

TESTING DURING SAMPLE STAGE.

VISIBLE “HALO” (DISCOLORATION OR RESIDUE) AROUND HEAT TRANSFER

AFTER APPLICATION IS NOT ACCEPTABLE.

LOCKER LOOPS:

USE BELOW SPECIFICATION UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED IN TECH PACK

29
BUTTONS:

HAND: ALL BUTTONS MUST BE STITCHED AS FOLLOWS - NEEDLE IS

THREADED WITH 2-PLYS. EACH HOLE GETS 4 PASSES. WRAP 2X AND
DOUBLE KNOT SECURELY.
CAUTION: DO NOT THREAD NEEDLE WITH MORE THAN 2-PLYS OF THREAD

MACHINE: USE LOCKSTITCH 304 BUTTON SEWER

THIS MACHINE INTERLOCKS THE NEEDLE THREAD WITH A BOBBIN
THREAD SO THAT IT WILL NOT UNRAVEL. EACH HOLE GETS 4 PASSES AND
MUST BE KNOTTED SECURELY

LOOSE THREADS MUST BE NEATLY TRIMMED.

*FOR KNITS: ALL BUTTONS MUST BE SEWN THROUGH 2-PLYS OF FABRIC.

BODY & FACING OR RE-ENFORCEMENT PATCH SET TO INSIDE OF
GARMENT.

SNAPS AND RIVETS:

*FOR KNITS: ALL SNAP AND RIVETS MUST BE SET THROUGH 2 PLYS OF
FABRIC. BODY & FACING OR RE-ENFORCEMENT PATCH SET TO INSIDE OF
GARMENT.

EXAMPLE:

30
FUSE & INTERFACING:

WE HAVE SELECTED FUSE OPTIONS FOR KNIT & ACTIVE PRODUCT TO

INCLUDE LIGHT WEIGHT, MEDIUM WEIGHT AND HEAVY WEIGHT.

PCC INFORMATION SHEETS FOR EACH ARE ATTACHED. ALL

SPECIFICATIONS MUST BE FOLLOWED.

*WHITE FUSE SHOULD ONLY BE USED ON WHITE FABRICS

*NATURAL AND BLACK FUSE SHOULD BE USED TO CLOSEST MATCHING

COLOR

*DTM FUSE MUST BE USED FOR ALL TRANSPARENT FABRICS AND FUSED
SEAMS.

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