Knitted Vest Pattern for Intermediate Knitters
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Diane SummersKnitted Vest Pattern for Intermediate Knitters
Uploaded by
Diane SummersThis comfortable vest for wearing over a shirt comes in 4 sizes, and features roomy armholes and a crew
neck.
It is knitted flat in separate pieces and sewn and knitted together at the end.
The sewn side seams help to keep the vest from twisting out of shape. The shoulder seam are knitted together
and the neck band has only a few sts to pick up as most of it is shaped with short rows. The armholes are
edged with a rolled edging, so no stitches need be picked up for a band.
All of the measurements are easily modified to suit your preferences. Optionally, the back band can be slightly
longer than the front to avoid having the vest ride up at the back.
Since the vest is knitted in stockinette stitch it works well to show off hand-dyed or gradient yarns.
A intermediate knitter should have no trouble with this pattern, but if you have questions you can contact me at
JoansGarden1@[Link] or at JoansGarden on Ravelry.
Materials:
Yarn:
Use any sport or light DK weight yarn. The sample is knitted with Dream in Color Cosette, 275 yds (251 m)
/100g
You will need 2 (3, 3, 4) skeins – [688 yds (630 m) for size M].
Needles:
❖ A circular needle 24” (61 cm) or longer, size 6 US (4 mm) needles (or size needed to get gauge).
❖ A set of double point needles (or straight needles) the same size for joining the shoulder seams.
❖ A circular needle 24” (61 cm) long and one size smaller than that used for body, to be used for bands.
Gauge: 22 sts and 28 rows/4” (10cm) over unblocked st st.
Also Needed:
❖ Tapestry needle
❖ Removeable stitch marker
1
Measurements: Size S, M, L, XL with instructions written as S (M, L, XL)
Size S 33-35” (84-89 cm) Size L 39-41” (99-104 cm)
Diameter: 37” (94 cm) Diameter: 43” (109 cm)
Armhole depth: 9 ½” (24 cm) Armhole depth: 10 ½” (26.7 cm)
Neck width 8 ½” (21.6 cm) Neck width 9” (23 cm)
Front Neck Depth: 3” (7.6 cm) Front Neck Depth: 4” (10 cm)
Total length: 21” (53 cm) Total length: 22” (56 cm)
Total length and armhole depth is adjustable. Total length and armhole depth is adjustable.
Size M 36-38” (91-96 cm) Size XL 42-43” (106.5-109 cm)
Diameter: 40” (101.5 cm) Diameter: 46” (117 cm)
Armhole depth: 10” (25.4 cm) Armhole depth: 11” (28 cm)
Neck width 8 ½” (21.6 cm) Neck width 9” (23 cm)
Front Neck Depth: 3½” (9 cm) Front Neck Depth: 4½” (11.4 cm)
Total length: 22” (56 cm) Total length: 23” (58.5 cm)
Total length and armhole depth is adjustable. Total length and armhole depth is adjustable.
Abbreviations and Techniques Used:
Beg: beginning
BO: bind off
CO: cast on
Cont: continue
Dec: decrease
eor: end of row (round)
Inc: increase
K: knit
P: purl
Kb: Knit into the back of the stitch
LN: left needle
RN: right needle
Rem: remaining
Rep *: Repeat the instructions following the *
RS: right side
WS: wrong side
Slp: slip purlwise
st(s): stitch(es)
tbl: through the back loop
wyif: with yarn in front
wyib: with yarn in back
K2tog: knit the next 2 sts together
P2tog: purl the next 2 sts together
SSK: knitwise slip 2 sts individually to the RN, then knit the 2 slipped sts together. This reverses the order of
the sts to make a left sloping decrease of 1 st.
3NBO: 3 Needle Bind Off. Line sts up together on 2 needles. With a third needle knit together 1 st from each
needle. Knit a second pair of sts. You now have 2 sts on the RN. Pass the 1st st over the 2nd st. Knit another
pair of sts from the LN, and continue to bind off until all sts have been knitted and bound off.
2
w&t: wrap and turn. wyif slip the next st to RN, wrap yarn around st to the back, and wyib slip st back to LN.
Turn your work and proceed with the next row. In later rows when you come to the wrapped st, you will need to
pick up the wrap and knit it along with the st, if knitting stockinette. You can ignore the wrap if knitting garter st.
Kitchener Stitch: When you are to join two rows of stitches in stocking stitch, the method is as follows.
Hold the 2 needles together with the stitches close to the end of the needles so that they will slip off easily.
Thread a long length of yarn through a tapestry needle and tie the end in as though you are going to knit.
setup step: (done once) bring the tapestry needle through the first st on the front needle as though to purl, and
then through the first st on the back needle as though to knit. Do NOT slip the sts off the needles.
Step 1: On the front needle bring the tapestry needle through the first st as though to knit, slip the st off the
needle, then bring it through the next st as though to purl – pull yarn through but leave that st on the needle.
Step 2: On the back needle bring the tapestry needle through the first st as though to purl, slip the st off the
needle, then bring it through the next st as though to knit – pull yarn through but leave that st on the needle.
When joining garter st, simply reverse the front/back instructions and start on the back needle instead of the
front needle
Mattress Stitch for invisible seaming.
Worked with RS facing and from the bottom up. When completed, the RS will be flat and there will be a small
seam on the WS.
For stockinette: If you have not slipped the edge st you will have a loop and knot alternating along each edge.
Take your needle into a loop, from top to bottom, under the knot and up through the next loop. Repeat on the
other edge, then back to the first edge, going into the same loop that you came out of each time.
PU: Pick up stitches: this means to knit through the loop as you pick it up with the RS facing you.
Instructions
Front
Band
With smaller needles, CO 91 (103, 111, 121) sts
Knit back and forth in rows
Row 1: (WS) *(K1, P1) rep* to last st, K1
Row 2: P1 *(Kb1, P1) rep* to eor
Rep rows 1-2, until band measures approx. 1 ½ (2, 2, 2 ½)” 4 (5, 5, 6.5) cm ending on row 2.
Body
Change to larger needles
Row 1: P1, P2tog, purl to eor. [90 (102, 110, 120) sts]
Row 2: Knit
Row 3: Purl
Rep rows 2-3 until work measures 10.5 (11, 10.5, 11)” 27 (28, 27, 28) cm, or length desired to 1” below
underarm
Next row: K2, *(Kb1, P1) 4 (5, 6, 7)X, knit to last 10 (12, 14, 16) sts, (P1, Kb1) 4 (5, 6, 7)X, K2
Next row: P2, *(P1, K1) 4 (5, 6, 7)X, purl to last 10 (12, 14, 16) sts, (K1, P1) 4 (5, 6, 7)X, P2
Rep last 2 rows 2X.
Work measures 11.5 (12, 11.5, 12)” 29.5 (30.5, 29.5, 30.5) cm
3
Armhole decreases
Keeping in pattern, BO 4 (4, 6, 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows [82 (94, 98,
108) sts]
Dec at armhole edge as follows
Row 1: K2, work to end of rib section, SSK, knit to 2 sts before rib section,
K2tog, work rib section to last 2 sts, Slp2 wyib
Row 2: P2, work to end of rib section, purl to rib section, work rib section
to last 2 sts, Slp2 wyif
Work rows 1-2, 1 (3, 3, 5) more times [78 (86, 90, 96) sts]
Cont in pattern until work measures 16.5 (17,16.5,17)” 42 (43.5, 42, 43.5)
cm.
This is 4.5 (5, 5.5, 6)” 11.5 (13, 14, 15) cm less than total length desired.
Divide for neck
Armhole detail showing
Place a removeable marker on the first st of the row. rolled edging.
Keeping in pattern, work the neckline as follows:
Work 28 (31, 32, 34) sts, w&t, work to eor
Work 26 (28, 29, 31) sts, w&t work to eor
Work 24 (26, 27, 28) sts, w&t, work to eor
Continue as established with w&t on the st before the previous w&t, 11X [13 (16, 17, 18) sts]
Continue on the rem 13 (16, 17, 18) sts until length from the removeable marker is 4.5 (5, 5.5, 6)” 11.5 (13, 14,
15) cm, ending on a RS row.
Last row: P4 (7, 8, 9) w&t, K4 (7, 8, 9)
Cut yarn leaving a 15” (38 cm) tail, place sts on holder
Turn work so that WS is facing and join in yarn
Keeping in pattern, work the neckline as follows:
Place a removeable marker on the first st of the row.
Note that you will be beginning each row on the WS and ending on the RS.
Work 28 (31, 32, 34) sts, w&t, work to eor
Work 26 (28, 29, 31) sts, w&t work to eor
Work 24 (26, 27, 28) sts, w&t, work to eor
Continue as established with w&t on the st before the previous w&t, 11X [13 (16, 17, 18) sts]
Continue on the rem 13 (16, 17, 18) sts until length from the removeable marker is 4.5 (5, 5.5, 6)” 11.5 (13, 14,
15) cm ending on a WS row.
Last row: K4 (7, 8, 9) w&t, P4 (7, 8, 9)
Cut yarn leaving a 15” (38 cm) tail, place sts on holder
4
Back
Work band as for front.
Optional final row of band to add a little extra depth to the back:
Work in pattern until 6 sts from the eor, w&t, work to 7 sts from eor, w&t, work to eor – no need to knit the wraps.
Change to larger needles and work body as for front
Work armhole as for front until work measures 19.5 (20.5, 20.5, 21.5)” 50 (52, 52, 55) cm.
This is 1½” (4 cm) less than the total length desired.
Work 16 (19, 20, 21) sts, w&t, work to eor
Continue as established with w&t on the st before the previous w&t, 3X [13 (16, 17, 18) sts]
Work 1 row, with w&t on the last st
Last row: P4 (7, 8, 9) w&t, K4 (7, 8, 9)
Cut yarn, place sts on holder
Turn work so that WS is facing and join in yarn
Keeping in pattern, work the neckline as follows:
Note that you will be beginning each row on the WS and ending on the RS.
Work 16 (19, 20, 21) sts, w&t, work to eor
Continue as established with w&t on the st before the previous w&t, 3X [13 (16, 17, 18) sts]
Work 1 row with w&t on the last st.
Last row: K4 (7, 8, 9) w&t, P4 (7, 8, 9)
Cut yarn, place sts on holder
Finishing
Neck Band
Join shoulders
Place the front and back left side shoulder sts back onto needles, line up the needles with WS tog,
and 3NBO pw
Rep for right side shoulder sts, binding off kw.
If you want a less visible shoulder seam, 3NBO on the WS instead of the RS.
If you want an invisible seam, join the shoulders using Kitchener
Stitch.
Pick up stitches for neck band
Starting at the right shoulder, using the 24” smaller circular
needle, work in K1, P1 rib across the back to the left shoulder (be
sure to knit all the wraps from the w&t), PU and knit (keeping in
K1, P1 rib) 1 st from the shoulder seam and then 3 sts for each 4
rows on the left straight edge of the front neckline. Work across
the sts of the front neckline, then PU the same number of sts on
the right edge, ending at the right shoulder seam. Place shoulder sts on dpns to join
If you do not have an even number sts, PU an extra st. with 3NBO or Kitchener Stitch.
5
Place marker for start of round.
Round 1: *(Kb1, P1) rep* to eor
Round 2: *(K1, P1) rep* to eor
Rep rounds 1-2 until neck band measures 1½” (4 cm) or
length desired.
BO loosely.
Sew side seams using mattress stitch.
The seam ridge on the WS gives stability to the sides of the Neck band and shoulder detail.
vest.
Sew in all ends
Block: wet thoroughly, squeeze gently and roll in a towel to
remove excess water. Lay flat and pull into shape, then leave to
dry.
Finished!!
After joining side seams
Left: RS Right: WS
Copyright: This pattern was designed by JoansGarden. The pattern itself is copyright protected; it should not be
reproduced (except for your personal use), redistributed, gifted or displayed publicly in any way.
You can make as many vests as you like to gift or sell.
Common questions
Powered by AIThe main techniques used for seaming and finishing the vest include the Mattress Stitch, 3 Needle Bind Off (3NBO), and Kitchener Stitch. The Mattress Stitch is used for invisible seaming with the right side (RS) facing; it creates a flat appearance on the right side and only a minimal seam on the wrong side (WS). The 3NBO is used to join shoulder seams; it lines stitches up together on two needles, knitted with a third needle, ensuring a neat and secure seam. This technique may be performed either on the RS for a decorative seam or on the WS for reduced visibility . The Kitchener Stitch is another method for joining rows invisibly, typically used when a seamless joint is preferred . These techniques collectively ensure that the garment has a professional finish with durable and aesthetically pleasing seams.
The 'wrap and turn' technique is applied at the neckline by wrapping the yarn around a stitch before turning the work, which creates a smooth transition and prevents holes from forming in the fabric . This technique is repeated to gradually shape the curve of the neckline through incremental short row sections. It offers the benefit of seamlessly integrating the neckline shaping into the fabric, enhancing both the aesthetics and fit without leaving visible gaps.
Removable stitch markers function as reference points within the vest pattern, crucial for marking significant sections like the start of rows or areas with shaping changes, such as the point of dividing for the neck or armholes . They aid the knitting process by improving accuracy, reducing mistakes, and allowing knitters to easily track progress and ensure symmetry in the garment.
The designer suggests optionally making the back band slightly longer than the front band to prevent the vest from riding up at the back . This suggestion reveals the garment's design flexibility as it allows knitters to modify the vest's dimensions to suit personal fit preferences and ensure comfort during wear.
Dream in Color Cosette yarn is advantageous for this vest pattern due to its sport/light DK weight, which aligns with the required gauge of 22 stitches and 28 rows per 4 inches . This yarn weight provides a balance between warmth and wearability, making the vest suitable for layering. Additionally, its softness and ability to highlight hand-dyed or gradient designs complement the pattern's stockinette stitch, allowing for a visually appealing fabric that showcases color variations effectively.
Short rows are utilized to shape the neck band without the need to pick up many stitches, allowing for a seamless transition and slight adjustments in the neckline shape . The strategic use of cast-on techniques permits flexibility in altering the size of neck and armholes, providing the ability to tailor each piece distinctly, suitable for different body shapes. These customizable elements facilitate individualized adjustments, enhancing the pattern's adaptability for diverse users.
The gauge specification of 22 stitches and 28 rows per 4 inches ensures the final garment matches the intended dimensions and fit outlined in the pattern . Not achieving the specified gauge could result in a vest that is either too small or too large, affecting the intended fit and overall look, and could lead to issues like mismatched seams or inadequate coverage, highlighting the critical nature of achieving correct gauge in knitting.
The Kitchener stitch, used for completing seams, significantly impacts both the aesthetic and functional quality of the vest. Aesthetically, it provides an invisible joining method that eliminates the appearance of a seam, ensuring a smooth, continuous fabric look ideal for a polished finish . Functionally, because it mimics the fabric's texture and continuity, the seam remains flexible and does not add bulk, contributing to the garment's comfort and durability while retaining the elasticity of knitted fabric.
Different sizes of circular needles are used to accommodate variations in stitch density and gauge throughout different sections of the vest. The larger needles are used for the main body to achieve the required gauge and fabric drape, while the smaller needles are used for the bands to ensure a tighter, more durable edge finish . This differentiation in needle size ensures that each section of the vest is constructed to optimal tightness and elasticity, impacting the overall fit and durability of the garment.
Armhole decreases are crucial for ensuring that the vest fits well through the armholes and sits properly on the wearer's shoulders. They are implemented by binding off a specific number of stitches at the start of successive rows, followed by strategic decreases along the armhole edge using techniques like SSK and K2tog, which create a gradual, sloped edge . This approach ensures a structured fit around the arm, prevents sagging, and aligns with the vest's overall silhouette.