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Microencapsulated essential oils in cosmetics I. T. Carvalho et al.
Table II Particle size produced by different microencapsulation technologies and their advantages and disadvantages
Microencapsulation Particle
technique size (µm) Advantages Limitations References
Simple coacervation 20–200 High encapsulation efficiency Expensive method [61, 66–68]
Complex coacervation 5–200 Efficient control of particle size Aggregation of particles
Hard scaling-up
Evaporation of volatiles
Possibility of dissolution of active
compound into the processing solvent
Oxidation of product
Spray drying 1–50 Simple Particles no uniform [61, 67, 68, 70, 89]
Versatile Low oil loading level
Low process cost Require further processing
Easy scaling-up technique Possibility of lost low-boiling point aromatics
Spray chilling 20–200 Suitable for water-soluble materials High process costs [61]
Require special handling and storage conditions
Fluid bed spray coating >100 Low operational costs Long time process [61, 67]
High thermal efficiency process
Total temperature control
Emulsification 0.1–100 Small droplets Low encapsulation efficiency [67, 84, 108]
Narrow particle size distribution Production of high quantity residual solvent
Suitable for biodegradable and non-biodegradable Expensive method
polymeric micro-particles, and a wide range
of liquid and solid core materials
Interfacial polymerization 0.5–1000 Easy scaling-up technique Difficult to control [41, 67, 84]
Fast Production of high quantity residual solvent
High encapsulation efficiency Possibility of non-biodegradable
and/or non-biocompatible monomers
Spray drying, spray chilling and spray cooling
Core
Spray drying is a physical–mechanical microencapsulation method
material
developed in the 1930s [69]. In spray drying technique, the active
compound dispersed or dissolved in an aqueous or organic solution
Water
of the polymer is atomized into the heated compartment of a spray
dryer. After evaporation of the solvent, the dried microparticles are
A B Polymer solution C recovered (Fig. 2) [70].
(1) The first step is to solubilize or disperse the core material (usu-
ally a water-immiscible oil) in a concentrated solution of the coat-
ing material, often an aqueous solution. The resulting solution or
dispersion is then sprayed into droplets in the spray dryer chamber
where a hot gas circulates. As a result, the droplets quickly dry
and can be continuously collected from the spray drying chamber
[71]. The encapsulation efficiency is influenced by various process
parameters, including type of wall material, properties of the core
(2) (3) D materials, characteristics of the infeed emulsion and conditions of
the spray-drying process (atomization type, inlet air temperature,
Figure 1 Generic scheme of microencapsulation process by coacervation: air flow and humidity levels) [50]. Additionally, wall composition
(1) formation of an oil-in-water (o/w) emulsion [core material (A) is dis- and properties, core material-to-wall ratio, atomization and drying
persed in water (B), and polymer (C) is dissolved in the organic phase]; (2)
parameters, dispersion of feed material viscosity and storage condi-
deposition of the liquid polymer coating upon the core material; and (3)
hardening the coating material to form a self-sustaining microcapsules (D).
tion affect microstructures of spray-dried capsules [52, 54]. Spray
Adapted from Lamprecht and Bodmeier [48]. drying is the most widely used technique to encapsulate fragrances,
oils and flavours. The aroma retention is dependent on the mois-
complex, requiring careful control of experimental conditions, and ture content of the final microparticles and on the humidity of the
expensive [68]. In some cases, the stabilization of the microcapsules exhaust air [72]. Arana-S anchez et al. [73] microencapsulated
using high temperature, extreme pH values or cross-linking agents oregano (Lippia graveolens) EOs by spray drying with b-cyclodextrin
is required, which limits the encapsulation chemically and thermo- to analyse how this technique affect anti-microbial and antioxidant
labile materials such as proteins and polypeptides. Other limitations activities of EOs. The average encapsulation efficiency was 81%. In
are evaporation of volatiles (e.g. flavours and EOs) during process- this study, it was shown that microencapsulation of oregano EOs
ing, dissolution of active compound into the processing solvent and in b-cyclodextrin by spray drying preserves the anti-microbial
oxidation of product [61]. activity and improves the antioxidant activity of active compound.
© 2015 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Societe Francßaise de Cosmetologie 113
International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 38, 109–119