Hair Cosmetics: An Overview 30/06/16 21:55
There are two main ways for a substance to penetrate the hair fiber: Transcellular and intercellular
diffusion, transcellular diffusion envolves epicuticle, A-layer, exocuticle, endocuticle and is much harder
path way because of the high cross-linked regions. Intercellular diffusion envolves the intercellular
cement, and it is the preferred route for large molecules because the low-sulfur and nonkeratin proteins are
more easily swollen. Both routes can occur depending on the size of the molecule, hair damage and
cosmetic system of the applied product.[5]
Diffusion rate into keratin fibers depends on the cross-link density of hair. Reactions like bleaching, that
decreases the cross-link density increases the rate of transcellular diffusion, meaning that bleached hair is
more rapid penetrated by conditioners, dyes, hair straightening substances or any product applied to the
hair fiber. However, penetration into the intercellular regions can lead to scale lifting and cause hair
damage. Scale lifting is induced by the deposit of insoluble cationic-anionic complex, meaning which can
occur because of the interaction and bonding of the anionic surfactants of the shampoo with the cationic
conditioning ingredients.[5,35]
LEAVE-ON CONDITIONERS
Creme rinses basically contain cationic surfactants, long-chain fatty alcohol or other lipid components.
Cationic polymers are the also used, such as polyquaternarium-10. Some examples that we can find among
the ingredients are cetrimonium chloride and stearalkonium chloride. Examples of lipids are cetyl alcohol,
stearyl alcohol or silicones such as dimethicone. Deep conditioners contain more concentrated ingredients
or just more viscosity. Some polymers are reported to build-up the hair and bind to anionic surfactants. The
complex resists shampooing from hair. Creme rinses are supposed to be rinsed with water. Setting lotions
or mousse known as leave-on products are designed to be applied on wet hair or dry hair and left without
rinsing. They are aqueous based or alcohol-water solvent systems. These products do not form rigid bonds
and act by enhancing interfiber forces and by providing a detangling effect to facilitate combing and style
retention.[5,17,35]
AFRICAN HAIR AND CURLY HAIR
Afro-ethnic hair presents variation of diameter at several points along the thread (the diameter at twisting
points is smaller than at other areas), less water content, and most importantly, an ellipsoid shape. Hair
fibers present torsions at many regions along the thread, while Caucasian hair has a cylindrical cross-
section.
The small angle of the waves of very curly hair makes it more susceptible to breakage, when mechanically
worked making curly hair more difficult to comb without provoking frizz. Although the production of
sebum is high on African hair, curly and wavy hair they are more prone to have oily scalp but dryer hair
fiber. Sebaceous glands of African descendants are frequently less active, when compared with the
Caucasian ones, and they produce low amounts of sebum. This way, both scalp and threads are dry
because they do not have good lubrication, even when the cuticle is preserved and the scalp tends to be
less hydrated. Usually, the scalp is relatively dry in order to the naturally irregular distribution of sebum.
[7] Distribution of sebum along the fibers by combing and brushing is a way of lubricating curly hair
because of the natural difficulty of the sebum produced on the scalp to diffuse along the fiber.[5,7,36]
To reach variety of styling, very curly hair is frequently straightened by pressing or by chemical
relaxing/straightening. But, as the fiber is extremely sensible and prone to breakage it is not unusual that
curly and straightened hair do not achieve long length and breaks during the growing process.
[9,37,38,39,40,41,42,43]
Fine straight hair can transport sebum very well, and curly-coarse hair tend to minimize tress clumping
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