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Sweater 2

The Real Easy Raglan is a beginner-friendly raglan sweater pattern designed for first-time garment knitters, featuring a relaxed fit and top-down construction. The pattern includes detailed instructions and optional short-rows for neck shaping, with various sizes available and recommendations for yarn and needle types. It emphasizes ease of fit adjustments and provides guidance for knitting both the body and sleeves, along with finishing techniques.

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Ruth Bolton
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© © All Rights Reserved
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
122 views6 pages

Sweater 2

The Real Easy Raglan is a beginner-friendly raglan sweater pattern designed for first-time garment knitters, featuring a relaxed fit and top-down construction. The pattern includes detailed instructions and optional short-rows for neck shaping, with various sizes available and recommendations for yarn and needle types. It emphasizes ease of fit adjustments and provides guidance for knitting both the body and sleeves, along with finishing techniques.

Uploaded by

Ruth Bolton
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

Real Easy Raglan

This raglan sweater is designed to be really easy, hence the name, and would be a great project for
first-time garment knitters. With it’s relaxed and comfortable fit you will find yourself reaching for this
sweater often, and it’s simplicity makes it a fantastic wardrobe staple.

The pattern includes detailed instructions with some handy extra tips for newbies. Starting at the neck,
the sweater is knit top-down on circular needles, which is a great method to check the fit as you go, and
is very easy to add or subtract length. There are also optional short-rows to shape the neck, but if you
want to keep things super simple just leave them on out!

I hope you enjoy knitting your own Real Easy Raglan!

Emily

1 Designed by Emily Bolduan © Maker Maker 2021


MATERIALS

Sizes: XS (S, SM, M, L, XL, XXL)

To Fit Bust: 74 (80, 86, 94, 103, 110, 118) cm / 29 (31.5, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46) inches

Finished Bust: 88 (94, 101, 109, 116, 123, 128) cm / 34.5 (37, 40, 43, 46, 48, 50) inches.
Designed to fit with between 6-15cm / 2-6” of positive ease depending on preferred fit.
Pictured here in size SM worn with about 8cm positive ease.

Yarn: Any 8ply / DK weight yarn.


We used Woolly 8ply (104m/50g), but a mix of 4ply yarn held with lace weight mohair
would be divine, too!

Quantity: Approximately 748 (857, 972, 1103, 1242, 1368, 1501) metres

Needle: 3.50mm 40cm and 80-100cm, 4mm 80-100cm circular needles, plus same sizes in
preferred needles for small circumference knitting (Magic Loop, DPN’s, etc).
Adjust needle size as necessary to match pattern gauge.

Gauge: 20sts x 27rows to 10cm in stocking stitch on larger needles

Extras: 5 stitch markers (1 different one for beginning of round, 4 for increasing), scrap yarn for
holding stitches, darning needle

PATTERN
Collar but you can pull out a cable loop in between
stitches to reduce the cable length, a la Magic
Using smaller 40cm needles, cast on 92 (96, Loop.
100, 104, 108, 110, 114) sts and join to work in
the round* making sure to not twist your We will now place stitch markers for our raglan
stitches, and place marker for beginning of lines as follows:
round at Center Back (CB).
Setup Round: k17 (18, 18, 19, 20, 20, 21) for
*If you like, you can work the first few rows flat half of back, place marker,
to make joining in the round easier. k12 (12, 13, 13, 14, 14, 15) for left
sleeve, pm,
R1: [k1, p1] repeat to end. k34 (36, 37, 39, 40, 41, 42) for front, pm,
k12 (12, 13, 13, 14, 14, 15) for right
Repeat this row until ribbing measures 4cm sleeve, pm,
from cast on edge, or desired length. k17 (18, 19, 20, 20, 21, 21) for half of
back, ending at CB marker.
Yoke One round worked. You should have 1 marker
to indicate Center Back/beginning of round, and
Change to larger needles in 80-100cm circular
4 markers for the raglan lines.
length. You will have a bit of excess cable here,

2 Designed by Emily Bolduan © Maker Maker 2021


Short Rows (optional) Raglan Increases
We will now work short rows to raise the back R1: [Knit to 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1, sm,
neck slightly for a better fit, but if you wish to kfb] four times, knit to CB marker. (8 sts
omit them and have a simpler sweater without increased)
a defined front and back, then skip ahead to
Raglan Increases. R2: Knit to end of round, slipping raglan
markers.
R1 (left RS): [Knit to 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1,
sm, kfb] twice, k3, turn. (4 sts increased) Repeat these two rounds until you have 268
(288, 308, 328, 340, 358, 382) stitches.
R2 (left WS): Work 1 DS, purl to CB marker, do
not turn. [56 (60, 65, 69, 72, 76, 83) for each sleeve, 78
(84, 89, 95, 98, 103, 108) for both front and
R3 (right WS): [Purl to 2 sts before marker, pfb, back]
p1, sm, pfb] twice, p3, turn. (4 sts
increased)

R4 (right RS): Work 1 DS, knit to CB marker, do Now you will increase on the body stitches only
not turn. (sleeves are knit without increasing).
R5 (left RS): [Knit to 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1, R1: [Knit to 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1, sm,
sm, kfb] twice, k to ds from previous knit to marker, sm, kfb] twice, knit to CB
row, knit the ds like a k2tog, k3, turn. (4 marker. (4 sts increased)
sts increased)
R2: Knit to end of round, slipping raglan
R6 (left WS): Work same as R2. markers.
R7 (right WS): [Purl to 2 sts before marker, pfb, Work these two rounds a total of 1 (1, 2, 3, 5, 6,
p1, sm, pfb] twice, p to ds from previous 6) times, or until you have 272 (292, 316, 340,
row, purl the ds like a p2tog, p3, turn. (4 360, 382, 406) stitches.
sts increased)
[56 (60, 65, 69, 72, 76, 83) for each sleeve, 80
R8 (right RS): Work same as R4. (86, 93, 101, 108, 115, 120) for both front and
back]
Repeat rows R5 to R8 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4) more
times. You will now resume working in the
round.
Next: Knit to end of round, slipping raglan
124 (128, 132, 144, 148, 150, 162) total stitches markers.

Repeat this round until the yoke measures 20


(22, 24, 26, 27, 28, 30) cm, measured from cast
on at center back.

3 Designed by Emily Bolduan © Maker Maker 2021


Separate Body and Sleeves Body
We will now be separating our body and sleeve Next: Knit to end.
stitches. This is done by working across the
body stitches of the next row, casting on new Repeat this round until the body measures 24
stitches at the underarm, and slipping our (26, 27, 29, 32, 35, 37) cm from armhole, or 6cm
sleeve stitches onto scrap yarn using a darning less than desired length.
needle. These sleeve stitches will be picked up
and knitted later on.

Next: [Knit to marker, rm, slip next 56 (60, 65, Change to smaller needles.
69, 72, 76, 83) sleeve stitches onto
scrap yarn, using backwards loop Next: [k1, p1] repeat to end.
method cast on 8 sts onto right needle,
rm] twice, knit to end. Repeat this row until ribbing measures 6cm, or
desired length.
176 (188, 202, 218, 232, 246, 256) body
stitches. Bind off all stitches.
Our preferred bind off method for hems is a
This is a great place to try your garment on to Decrease Bind Off like this one
check the fit! Just slip roughly half of the body [Link]
stitches onto a spare, long circular needle or retchier-bind-off/ But you can use whatever
piece of scrap yarn, and pop it over your head bind off you like most!
to see how it’s going. Make sure to check again
before casting off the body and when knitting
the sleeves, it’s a great chance to tailor the
length to fit your own body!
Sleeves
As the sleeves will be a small circumference*
that is knit in the round, you will need to knit
them with one of the following needle options:
double pointed needles; short 23cm or 30cm
circular needles; or with 80cm or longer circular
needles and the Magic Loop technique.
Everyone has different preferences for small
circumference knitting, so have a play around
and find out what works best for you!

*larger sizes might be able to begin their


sleeves on a 40cm circular needle, which is nice
and easy, but will need to switch to small
circumference knitting when work becomes too
small.

4 Designed by Emily Bolduan © Maker Maker 2021


Setup: With 4mm needles in your preferred Cuff
type for small circumference knitting, transfer
56 (60, 65, 69, 72, 76, 83) held sleeve stitches to We will now work one decrease round to
needle. reduce for the cuff. Instructions are written per
garment size.
Join yarn and knit across these stitches, then
pick up and knit 12* stitches at underarm. Place Size XS: [k4, k2tog] to end. (8 sts decreased)
a marker halfway for new beginning of round,
then join for working in the round and knit to Size S: [k5, k2tog, k4, k2tog] to end. (8 sts
end. decreased)

*8 sts that were cast on to match the body, and Size SM: [k5, k2tog] to end. (8 sts decreased)
2 sts in each corner to avoid holes. These 4
extra stitches will be decreased in the following Size M: [k4, k2tog] 4 times, k3, k2tog, [k4, k2tog]
rounds: 4 times, k3, k2tog. (10 sts decreased)

R1: k3, ssk, k to 5sts before marker, k2tog, k Size L: [k4, k2tog] 4 times, k5, k2tog, [k4, k2tog]
to end. 4 times, k5, k2tog. (10 sts decreased)

R2: k to end. Size XL: [k6, k2tog] to end. (8 sts decreased)

Repeat R1 once more (4 sts decreased) Size XXL: [k3, k2tog] to end. (14 sts decreased)

Sizes SM, M and XXL: k1, k2tog, k to end. (1 st 40 (44, 48, 48, 52, 56, 56) sleeve stitches.
decreased)

All sizes: knit one more round.


Change to smaller needles.
64 (68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 90) sleeve stitches.
Next: [k1, p1] repeat to end.

Repeat this row until ribbing measures 6cm, or


desired length.
Sleeve Decreases
Bind off all stitches and repeat for the second
Decrease: k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. (2 sts sleeve.
decreased)
Now all you need to do is weave in any loose
Knit 4 more plain rounds. threads, and give your new sweater a good
block! (Blocking is where you soak your knit in
Continue working Decrease round every 5th water, then dry it flat - easy peasy!)
round 7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9) more times, until 48 (52,
56, 58, 62, 64, 70) sts remain.

Knit without decreasing until sleeve measures


32 (34, 36, 38, 40, 40, 40) cm from underarm, or
6cm less than desired length

5 Designed by Emily Bolduan © Maker Maker 2021


ABBREVIATIONS FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

If there are any stitches or abbreviations that


you are unsure of, just pop online and search
for them! There are plenty of helpful videos and
tutorials out there.

CB center back

DS double stitch (part of the German


Short Row method, for which there
are many handy videos online)

k knit

kfb knit front and back, a common A Bust circumference


88 (94, 101, 109, 116, 123, 128)cm
increase
B Body length from underarm
k2tog knit two together, a common decrease 30 (32, 33, 35, 38, 41, 43)cm

p purl C Neck circumference


46 (48, 50, 52, 54, 55, 57)cm
pfb purl front and back
D Sleeve length from underarm
pm place a marker 38 (40, 42, 44, 46, 46, 46)cm

ssk slip slip knit, another common E Upper arm circumference


32 (34, 36.5, 38.5, 40, 42, 45.5)cm
decrease
F1 Lower arm circumference
sts stitches 24 (26, 28, 29, 31, 32, 35)cm

R1 row 1 F2 Cuff circumference


20 (22, 24, 24, 26, 28, 28)cm
rm remove marker
Our website is [Link]
sm slip marker across to right needle
And you can find our other free patterns on Ravelry!
[...] Repeat section in brackets to end [Link]
ker-store/patterns
… (...) distinguishes measurements or
Happy making!
instructions for different sizes

6 Designed by Emily Bolduan © Maker Maker 2021

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