Pattern Making and Apparel Construction-II
FDAE-201
Course Teacher:
Priyanka Sarkar
Lecturer, FDAE, NITER
Contacts:
01751101144
psarkar@[Link]
Course Content: Reference Books:
❑ Fullness
❑ Sleeves 1. Pattern Making for Fashion Design, by Helen Joseph
Armstrong.
❑ Dart Manipulation
2. Metric Pattern Cutting for Men’s wear, by Aldrich,
❑ Collars Winifred.
❑ Yokes 3. Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear, by
❑ Pockets Winifred Aldrich.
❑Neck line Finishes 4. Metric Pattern Cutting for Children's Wear &
Babywear, by Winifred Aldrich.
❑ Plackets
5. How to Make Sewing Patterns by Donald H. McCunn.
❑ Skirts
❑ Dress Categories
❑ Fasteners
Chapter 01
Fabric Fullness
Fullness in clothing construction means the provision of extra allowance in the garment. One of the
first things to be done in making up a garment is to arrange the fullness. Fullness can be introduced
in a garment by the following processes: gathers, darts, tucks and pleats etc.
Importance to arrange Fullness: Types of fullness:
• Darts
Fullness is introduced into garments for • Tucks
various reasons such as- • Pleats
1. To give good shape and proper fit to the • Gathers
garment. • Shirring
2. To allow freedom of movement and • Ruffles and frills
comfort to the wearer.
• Gores
3. To make the garment look attractive.
• Godets etc.
Darts
Darts are small tapered folds of fabric. They are
stitched on the wrong side of a garment section.
Darts can be straight, curved or double-pointed.
Anatomy of a Dart
There are three (but more like four) parts of a dart
you should know:
• Dart point
• Dart legs
• Dart intake
• Dart root
1) Dart Point:
The dart point is the narrow end of the dart, where the dart legs come together. Dart points
point to the apex of a mound of flesh, usually the bust and booty.
The dart point and the bust point are not the same. The dart point points to the bust point,
which is the fullest part of the bosom.
For most sewing patterns, which are drafted for a two-inch difference between the upper bust
and full bust, the dart point is backed off the bust point ½ inch (1.3 cm) to 1 inch (2.5 cm).
For larger busts, the dart point should be backed off more — 2-3 inches (5.1-7.6 cm) for
differences of 4 inches (10.5 cm) between the upper bust and full bust.
2) Dart Legs:
The dart legs are the two sides of the dart that converge towards the dart point. They are equal
in length.
3) Dart Intake:
The dart intake is the amount of fabric taken up by the dart. It’s the space between the dart
legs.
According to Helen Joseph Armstrong, author of “Pattern Making for Fashion Design,” dart
intakes “[take] up excess where it is not needed and … gradually release fabric where it is
needed to control the fit of the garment.”
4) Dart Root:
The dart root (or dart cap) is part of the intake, but I think it’s worth calling out.
The dart root is the bit of the intake that’s shaped to reflect which direction the dart is folded.
In the case of our diagram here, the dart root folds down toward the waist.
Types of Darts
1. Single-Point Dart:
The single-point dart is the most commonly
used type of dart in sewing. It is a triangular
fold of fabric that tapers to a point at one
end. This type of dart is often used to shape
the bust area in women’s garments, creating
a more fitted look.
It can also be used to shape the waist or hips
in garments.
2. Double-Point Dart:
The double-point dart, also known as a fish-eye dart, is a
dart that tapers to a point at both ends. This type of dart
is used when shaping curved areas, such as the waist or
hips. It creates a more contoured fit and adds shape to
the garment.
Double-point darts are commonly used in dresses, skirts,
and pants.
3. Slash and Spread Dart:
The slash and spread dart is a unique type of dart that involves cutting and spreading
the fabric to create shape. It is often used when a single-point or double-point dart is
not suitable for the desired design.
This technique allows for more flexibility in adding shape to garments and can create
interesting design elements. It is commonly used in advanced sewing projects and
couture garments.
Tucks
Tucks are a sewing technique used in garment construction that involves folding a strip of
fabric and stitching it down to create a decorative effect or to control the fullness of the fabric.
This technique can be used to add texture, shape, and visual interest to clothing without
significantly increasing the volume of the fabric. Tucks can vary in size, width, and style, and
they can be positioned in various areas of a garment, such as sleeves, bodices, skirts, or hems.
Types of Tucks:
Pin Tucks
Pin tucks are very thin folds of fabric that are stitched and ironed to one side. They are used on
lightweight fabrics for blouses and dresses as well as various tailored items like trousers, blazers and
jackets. Pin tucks are very narrow and subtle but they make a huge difference to the design of a
garment. Although they don’t affect fit, pin tucks can give the illusion of a slender, taller figure.
Blind Tucks:
As a basic tuck, a regular blind tuck is folded using the same method as a pin tuck but is usually
wider and aligned so that the fold of each one of the tucks meet each other. In other words, if you
take a look at the raw edge of a blind tucked fabric, you will notice that the next fold starts where
the last fold ended as shown below. For that reason, blind tucks are always aligned evenly,
maintaining the same distance from fold to fold.
Spaced Tuck:
A spaced tuck is constructed the same way as a blind tuck except that it's folds do not start where
another one ends, but rather with some space in between. Spaced tucks are a more spread out. The
distance between the folds can be equal and evenly spread out or require uneven spacing. As
opposed to blind tucks, spaced tucks don't always have to be aligned at an equal distance to one
another.
Special Tucks: Dart Tuck
A dart tuck is a special tuck that is usually used to control fullness by stitching it down and then
releasing it at a single point or in the case of a double pointed tuck- at two points. Although also
decorative, a dart tuck can influence the shape a fit of a garment. Dart tucks are common on
dresses and skirts at the bust, waits and hip area. A dart tuck can either be stitched and released on
one side or on both sides depending on the design you are working on. Top stitching is also common
on dart tucks.
Pleats
A pleat is a fold of fabric that is held in place by stitching either at the top, bottom, or both. It adds
volume and interest to the otherwise flat, boring fabric.
Purpose of Pleats:
• In clothing, it fits the curves of the body and gives shape and volume where needed.
• Pleats can be functional or purely decorative on trousers, blouses and dresses.
• You will also find pleats on home decor items, such as the corners of couches and at
the tops of curtains.
Types of Pleats:
There are several types of pleats, each offering a distinct look and feel. Here are some of the
most common ones:
1. Box Pleats
2. Inverted Pleats
3. Kick Pleats
4. Knife Pleats
5. Kick Pleats
6. Accordion Pleats
1. Box Pleat
Box pleats have the fabric pressed outwards and in opposite directions and are more commonly
used in curtains and other sewing projects rather than clothing. The box pleats can be singular or
double-layered.
2. Inverted Pleat
Most skirts and dresses use inverted pleats. The underneath fabric can be the same, or sometimes
an insert is used for a pop of color. Usually, when inverted pleats are sewn, they are only secured at
the top and are not pressed all the way down.
3. Kick Pleats
Kick Pleats are a type of inverted pleats that you will find on tight skirts to enable you to be able to
walk. When wearing or making a tight skirt below the knee, it will need some kind of pleat or split if
you want to take steps that are more than a few inches at a time.
4. Knife Pleats
Knife pleats can be large or small and all face the same direction. They are commonly used in skirts.
The pleats can be attached to the waistband or start below the hips and are pressed all the way
down. Many time these kinds of skirt pleats will need dry cleaning as they are impossible to iron.
5. Accordion Pleats
Accordion pleats are evenly spaced in and out pleats used for dresses and skirts. They are often
made in permanent press types of fabric so that the pleat extends all the way down the skirt to the
hem.
6. PinTucks
Pintucks are small pleats that are stitched along their length. Moreover, they add interest and
texture to clothing rather than volume. Many tuxedo skirts have fine pintucks along the front.
Pintucks can also be sewn across in different directions to add a 3-dimensional look.
Gather
Gathers are small irregular pleats that regulate fullness, for fit or decorative effect. They look best in
light- or medium weight fabric – heavyweight fabrics can be bulky, so fullness is best controlled with
pleats, darts or seaming. In garment manufacturing, “gathering” is a technique used to create
fullness and volume in garments by drawing together a series of small pleats or folds.
Gathering Types and Techniques
1. Gathering by Hand:
Gathering by hand requires a needle and thread and the item to be gathered. Two parallel rows of
running stitch create the gathers. It is commonly used for extremely thick or thin fabrics or fabrics
where extreme precision is needed. The longer the stitch, the deeper the gathers. Tiny small
stitches should be used for fine fabrics such as silk and chiffon. The advantage of hand gathering is
the control the sewer has over the size of the stitching and, therefore, the gathers.
2. Gathering Using Elastic:
A narrow band of elastic is stretched and stitched onto the portion of the garment that needs to be
gathered. After stitching, the relaxation of the stretched elastic causes the gathering effect. This is
the fastest technique and is suitable for any weight fabric. The length of the strip of elastic is the
same as the final gathering length and one end of the elastic is anchored to the fabric by stitching
and back stitching a couple of times. The broken zigzag stitch is preferred for gathering.
3. Corded Gathers:
Corded gathers are gathers that are pulled up over a narrow piping cord or thick thread. This
technique is used for furnishing fabrics, where machine gathers may not be strong enough.
4. Gathering Fabric with a Serger:
An attachment can be purchased for the serger that will enable you to gather fine fabrics such as
net, chiffons, and georgettes, on to other fabrics. This is a really useful technique if large quantities
of a fine fabric are to be gathered, such as bridal petticoats and frills in soft furnishings.
5. Gathering Fabric with Shirring Elastic (Elastic Thread):
Shirring is the name given to multiple rows of gathers. It is an excellent way to give fullness in a
garment. If made using shirring elastic in the bobbin, shirring gathers can stretch. On heavier
fabrics, such as for soft furnishings, static shirring is more suitable.
The End