Basic Weaves
Weave or design is the manner by which woven fabric is produced. Repeating unit is the
smallest unit of a design.
1. Plain Weave
2. Twill Weave
3. Satin Weave and sateen weave
1. Plain Weave
Plain weave, also called taffeta. Filling yarns pass over and under alternate warp yarns. Other
plain weaves are broadcloth, muslin, batiste, percale, seersucker, organdy, voile, and tweed.
Simplest weave requiring a 2 harness loom, formed by yarns at right angles whereby
each warp yarn interlaces with each weft yarn Properties: least expensive to produce,
reversible unless surface design, wrinkles more, firm & wears well, less absorbent, abrasion
resistant, used as background for printing/ embroidery
Type of Plain weave:
o Rib Weave fabrics: Rib effect is produced by using heavy yarns in the filling
direction or by more warp than
filling yarns per inch. Eg Bengaline, ottoman, faille, poplin, broadcloth, taffeta.
Two types: Warp rib and Weft rib
o Basket Weave or matt fabrics: Basketweave is made by treating two or more
yarns as one in either the warp or weft or
both the directions and interlacing them in plain weave. It is not as firm as plain
weave, have more yarn slippage, shrinks easily. Oxford cloth, monk are the
examples.
2. Twill Weave
Twill weave. Filling yarns pass over two warp yarns and under a third, and repeat the sequence
for the width of the fabric. The next filling yarn repeats the sequence but shifts one warp yarn
sideways, creating a diagonal pattern. Herringbone, serge, jersey, foulard, gabardine, worsted
cheviot, and drill are twill weaves.
Each warp or weft yarn floats across two or more weft or warp yarns with a progression of
interlacing by one to the right or to the left, forming a distinct diagonal line or wale.
The direction of diagonal may be formed from right to left, from left to right or a combination
of both. Soil resistant, softer & pliable, good wrinkle recovery, durable & wears well. The
direction of the twill on the back of the cloth is opposite to the twill line on the face. 3 harness
is required for twill weave.
Types of Twill weave:
o Right Hand Twill – diagonals run upwards to the right
o Left Hand Twill – diagonals run upwards to the left.
o Balanced Twill – the same number of warp pass over filling yarns. It is reversible.
2X2, 4X4
o Unbalanced Twill – have an uneven warp or filling yarn. It has a right or wrong.
o Broken Twill – combines right or left-hand twills
o Herringbone Twill – a series of inverted V’s are formed resembling the backbone
of the
herringbone fish. Most commonly used in suiting fabrics.
3. Satin Weave
Satin weave is warp face fabric or warp dominated fabric. 3 end Satin,5 end Satin, 7 end Satin
etc.
Sateen weave is weft faced or weft dominated fabric.e.g 3 end Sateen, 5 end Sateen, 7 end
Sateen etc
Decorative weave
1. Dobby Weave
Dobby is a shedding device by which small motif is produced.
Small figured designs (floral or geometrical) woven repeatedly throughout the fabric,produced
by a combination of two or more basic weaves, using a dobby attachment on the loom.
Weaving pattern controlled by a plastic tape with punched holes that control the raising &
lowering of warp yarns. It uses up to 32 harnesses.
2. Jacquard Weave
Jacquard is a device by which large motif is produced.
Characteristics: highly intricate large designs using colored yarns and multi-weaves produced
on a loom with jacquard attachment. Incorporates all 3 basic weaves & their combination.
Each warp yarn is controlled separately by punched cards that are laced together in a
continuous strip. Are more expensive. Used for home furnishing, apparel, elaborate &
decorative fabrics.