Nathan Outlaw’s new guide to fish • Britalian recipes for spring

ON SALE 1-30 APRIL 2023 £5.99 • [Link]

FOOD MAGAZINE OF THE YEAR

Best of British
Wild garlic preserved
Radishes honey-roasted
Asparagus every which way…

nothing
wasted!
pickled. wrapped.

blanched.
charred.

WONDERFUL
PUDDINGS WITH
A TOUCH OF SPICE
 quick and easy.

If you make one thing…

Ever roasted radishes before? Get ready to be amazed – they turn into
beautiful, sweet, purple-pink gemstones while retaining their bite. Serve
this with bread as an amped-up dip or as a side to other springtime dishes

Honey-roast radishes then serve on a bed of the

with whipped butter bean purée with the dukkah
beans and dukkah sprinkled on top and a final
Serves 1-2 drizzle of oil.
Hands-on time 25 min Per serving (for 2) 384kcals,
24.9g fat (3.1g saturated),
Dukkah will keep for a 14.1g protein, 20.1g carbs
SCALE
IT UP long time in an airtight (5.6g sugars), 0.4g salt,
container, so it’s a good 11.8g fibre
idea to make a larger batch for
sprinkling over other dishes.

Cut 200g radishes in half and

toss with olive oil, salt and
pepper. Roast in a 180°C fan/
gas 6 oven for 15 minutes.
To make the dukkah, toast
¼ tsp each coriander seeds,
cumin seeds and fennel
seeds in a hot dry pan,
then roughly grind in a
pestle and mortar. Toast
2 tbsp chopped
hazelnuts and 1 tbsp
sesame seeds in
the same pan, then
mix them with the
spices and a pinch
RECIPE & FOOD STYLING: POLLYANNA COUPLAND. PHOTOGRAPH: TOM SHINGLER

of salt flakes.
Drain a 400g tin
butter beans, then
put the beans in
a blender with
½ garlic clove
and 1 tbsp tahini.
Whizz until smooth,
adding a splash of
water if it looks too
thick, then season
with salt, pepper and
a squeeze of lemon.
Drizzle 1 tsp honey or
agave syrup over the
roast radishes, return to
the oven for 5 minutes,

[Link] 3
make it yours.

WHAT’S SPRING FLING SPICE WORLD SPEEDY TRIO

Honey-roast radishes with Hake cigars with onions, Sardines with feta, orange,
whipped butter beans white wine, raisins and cucumber and orange salad

ON THE and dukkha p3 saffron yogurt p37 in an ouzo dressing p40

Spring vegetable gnocchi Kare sotbap Speedy spinach, ricotta
with beurre blanc p50 (curried pot rice) p104 and egg pizzas p98

MENU? Gardener’s delight p87

Spring is finally here, so
celebrate the season with a
Pineapple and pink
peppercorn frangipane
tart p59
Banana and apple
crumble muffins p106
A pleasing little trio of dishes
menu that champions Raid the spice rack and that are quick and simple but
April’s larder. A creamy dip embrace the aromatic seriously deliver on the
Food editor bolstered with gemstone flavours those little jars can flavour front. Make-ahead
radishes begs to be scooped provide. Start with crunchy, muffins perfect for
Tom Shingler up with good bread, while a cumin and coriander-infused breakfasts, lunchboxes or
mixes and picture-perfect buttery hake cigars with a saffron pud; a super-sunny sardine
gnocchi dish will dip, then embrace Korean salad or knockout pizzas
matches this continue the vibe. Pair comfort food with curried using ready-made pizza
month’s it all with our herby pot rice. The frangipane tart dough (a great timesaver).
garden-themed cocktail finishes things off with Work quickly and you can
recipes and wave bye-bye to a tropical sweetness – and get all three dishes cooked
winter for another year. can be made well in advance. and on the table in an hour.

4 [Link]
 welcome.

The recipe I’m

making first…
As soon as the first pickings of
British asparagus hit the shops
I’ll be making this spring-like
tikka masala. It’s weeknight-
quick, and the colours alone are
enough to brighten a dull day.

or years I’ve been on a mission to eat

less meat and fish, making sure what
we eat at home is ethically sourced –
while being acutely aware that buying organic chicken or
day-boat fish is a luxury many can’t afford.
At a time when the news highlights a plethora of shortages,
our nation’s food security has never been more in the
spotlight. A key part of the conversation is to recognise that
access to and affordability of quality ingredients should be Table of the month
The Counter is a cooking-over-
a right, not a privilege. Buying British fruit and veg should coals London restaurant where
be more affordable than flying it in from around the world, Anatolian flavours sing off
but part of the problem is we’re not growing enough here to the plate. Fine ingredients,
meet demand – for complex reasons. However, if we wield warmth and generosity of spirit
are the bywords here. If you
our purchasing power and buy seasonally and locally, let’s can, go! [Link]
hope the decision-makers will eventually listen.
Meanwhile, eating a plant-based meal once or twice
a week should in theory help planet and pocket. See p80
for a look at a new, better way of vegan eating, with less
emphasis on products that masquerade as meat and more
on recipes that champion simple, wholesome ingredients.
And for some sweet relief, the delicious. food team’s
Polly Coupland has been toying with spices, adding
them to puddings that I’d say are all the better for them.
Millionaire’s shortbread with juniper, anyone? I’m in!

MAGAZINE EDITOR OF THE YEAR,

OF THE YEAR FOOD & DRINK
PORTRAIT: PAUL MITCHELL

Editorial director, delicious.

Love this issue? Turn to p110 for a subscription offer with a FREE
cookbook gift – you’ll never miss a copy of delicious. again.

[Link] 5
 April
3 If you make one thing... 46 Brilliant Britalian With chef 78 Energy-saving recipe
Honey-roast radishes Ben Waugh from London The power of passive cooking
4 What’s on the menu Mixing restaurant Bancone 80 Has veganism lost its way?
and matching April recipes 54 Dare to be different Where it went wrong – and
8 Appetisers Food news, Sweet treats with a hint of new recipes that are so right
nuggets and pub of the month unexpected spice
12 Over to you The best from 117 Bite-size break A food lover’s Drinks.
our mailbox and more weekend in Carmarthenshire 87 Cocktail of the month
14 Hotlist Brilliant homeware 122 Discoveries Taste-tested A refreshing take on G&T
to brighten up your kitchen 88 Susy’s best buys The top
ON THE COVER products we recommend
The best-dressed
16 The booklist Food writer wines for this month’s recipes
130 Talking point Are edible
asparagus p18 Mark Diacono picks the best 90 Beer school California IPAs
flowers a blooming nuisance?
new cookbook releases
PHOTOGRAPH: 17 A pinã colada with... Cook and
Be a better cook. Make it every day.
ANDY GRIMSHAW TV presenter Shivi Ramoutar 92 A world of flavour Simple
FOOD STYLING: 66 The secret art of egg wash
LOLA FAURA 18 Bring me my spears! meals with global appeal
Mouthwatering recipes to Giving colour to your crust 100 The food I cook at home
STYLING:
TONY HUTCHINSON big-up in-season asparagus 70 Your wild garlic weekender Su Scott’s Korean flavours
28 My cooking year Debora A flavour-packed delight 106 Easy bake Banana and apple
Robertson’s anchovy obsession to forage for and preserve crumble muffins
32 Nathan Outlaw’s fish revolution 74 Technical make Benjamina
Imaginative ways to prepare Ebuehi’s soured cream and Health matters.
the UK’s catch sage doughnuts 113 Health news Info and advice
42 “Every meal was a bit of 114 The hidden health risk in
a fuss with Grandma” Chef Be a sustainable cook. your food Understanding
Helen Graham’s fond memories 77 Don’t bin it! Veg tops and tails the role of emulsifiers

92 If it’s Tuesday night, it must

be apricot-glazed chicken… 32 Explore the best ways to cook
fish with expert Nathan Outlaw 28 Savour Debora Robertson’s
anchovy-rich pissaladière
 in this issue.

Other great stuff.

64 WIN! A gourmet Cotswolds getaway
110 SUBSCRIBE... and get Su Scott’s
Korean cookbook FREE
112 COMING NEXT MONTH A sneak
peek at the May issue
120 TRAVEL CLUB A slice of Sicily
124 RECIPE INDEX
128 TAKE FIVE Chew over our
crossword puzzle and quiz

46 Italian food gets a British

makeover with moreish results 100 Enjoy Su Scott’s Korean-
style kebabs at home 80 Who needs cheese? Whip up
a creamy vegan pasta

[Link] 7
Inspiration, bite-size news, reviews & great stuff to do

WORDS: KAREN BARNES, PHOEBE STONE. PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

ARUNDEL IN BLOOM
Be uplifted by the sight of swathes of brightly coloured tulips swaying in the
breeze, set against the grandeur of Arundel Castle and its gardens. The West
Sussex landmark’s annual Tulip Festival will showcase a staggering 100,000-
plus flowers and runs from April to early May (dependent on when the tulips
bloom – check the website and/or social media before visiting). Throw in lunch
at The Pig hotel on the South Downs, where the ‘25-mile menu’ champions local
produce, and you have the recipe for a wonderful spring day out.
From £14, [Link]; @arundelcastleuk
 april moments.

DUST OFF THE

CAKE STAND…
The Big Lunch campaign
encourages communities
to come together to eat,
share and raise money for
local causes. Take part on
6-8 May – the bank holiday
coronation weekend – or
throughout June. Look
out for street party recipe
ideas in next month’s issue, Hello spring!
and meanwhile visit April is a fabulous month
[Link]. for new-season produce.
You’ll find posters, recipes Say a big hello to the first
and activity ideas to plan
a knees-up with your
asparagus (see our cover
neighbours, plus a themed feature on p18), plus early
pack if you want to mark jersey royals, watercress,
the coronation. radishes, field-grown
rhubarb, lettuce and
salad leaves, soft herbs
and spinach, radishes,
spring onions and wild
garlic (see p70 for how
to preserve the bounty).
And the last hurrah:
cauliflower, forced
rhubarb and purple
sprouting broccoli. →

[Link] 9
 PUB OF THE SCHOOL’S OUT!
The Easter holidays
MONTH are here: hatch some plans,
THE SILVER CUP, at home or away.
HARPENDEN,
HERTFORDSHIRE
[Link]
1
PUBBY CREDS
At the foot of Harpenden
Common, this ‘contemporary HEADED TO THE CAPITAL WITH
public house’ was revamped CHILDREN IN TOW?
by new local owners in 2020. Relax: writer (and mum of two)
It’s now split into an upmarket Katy Salter has compiled a list of
restaurant and laid-back bar child-friendly London restaurants,
(plus four guest rooms upstairs). such as Pizza Pilgrims (above),
where food-loving adults can eat
THE FOOD well too. Visit deliciousmagazine.

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES, KATE WHITAKER, COTSWOLD FARM PARK, MATT HOLYOAK
Dishes are clever, but there’s [Link]/familyrestaurants
nothing pretentious about the
food or service. Treat yourself 2
to the seven-course set menu
(£70) and enjoy snacks like duck
egg gribiche and mains such as FIND AN OPEN FARM DAY FOR
Cornish plaice with brill, artichoke, THE CHANCE TO GLIMPSE NEWBORN
confit lemon and caviar. On a LAMBS AND PIGLETS
budget? The Sunday roast is £36 • There are also rabbits, guinea pigs and
for two courses – or just share calves at Cotswold Farm Park, plus an
some tempting bar snacks. outdoor play area with mud kitchen. From
£15.95 per child, [Link]
THE BOOZE • Watch bottle feeding at Kent Life,
Classic cocktails, a vast gin with pottery painting, farm rides and
selection and balanced wine list: Easter shows in a big-top tent, too.
it’s worth trying their expert From £12 per child, [Link]
recommendations. • With a ‘farm to fork’ theme, CountryTastic
at Malvern’s Three Counties Showground
THE WALK (6 April) will have ‘Ask the farmer’ sessions,
The common is steps away – and farmyard and exotic animals, animatronic
Harpenden is bursting with dinosaurs, cookery, bushcraft and more.
bakeries and things to do. Visit From £6 per child, [Link]
neighbouring St Albans for the • Visitors to Lanarkshire’s Errington
food market and Roman ruins. Cheese can try its award-winning
cheeses, see how they’re made – and
meet goat kids. 11am-3.30pm every day,
[Link]

…BACK HOME, GET BAKING AND

MAKE OUR CUTE LAMB CUPCAKES
Visit [Link]/easter for
more springtime baking projects, from
coconut macaroon nests to mini-egg cookies
 april moments.

LET’S TALK FOOD THIS MONTH

The British Library’s Food Season
returns from 17 April to 7 June with a
WE’RE
starry line-up of appetising talks, many READING…
of which will be streamed online. There’s
fermentation with US expert Sandor Katz
and friends, and sandwiches with a panel
including Nigella. Bake Off star and Poppy O’Toole Joan Bakewell
food writer Chetna Makan, TikTok chef
Poppy O’Toole and Honey & Co’s Itamar
Srulovich discuss food and social media,
while Joan Bakewell and panel explore
eating well and ageing. In another
highlight, TV’s Andi Oliver, writer Melissa
Thompson and chef Marie Mitchell look
at the legacy of Caribbean cookery.
Booking essential; tickets from £6.50, [Link] Nigella Lawson Andi Oliver

RAVENOUS
In this eye-opening
exposé, Henry
Dimbleby, leader of
Meet your match the 2020-21 National
Food Strategy review,
Got veg-wilting-in-the-salad- examines what’s
drawer guilt? Surplus veg box wrong with the global
food system, from
brand Oddbox has revealed
diet-related disease
the most overlooked items. to environmental
Top are bagged salad leaves, damage, and suggest
followed by bananas, lettuce, solutions.
cucumber and tomatoes*. Profile Books £16.99

The good news: its new website

Soilmates can help avoid waste.
Inspired by dating apps, the site
gets cooks to pair up unloved
*POLL OF 2,000 ADULTS BY ONEPOLL. SOURCE FOR CHILD POVERTY FIGURES: THE FOOD FOUNDATION

produce with another fruit

or veg, then matches them
with veggie recipes that
will use them up. Try it at
[Link]

UNDER THE
HENFLUENCE
From poultry shows
BRAIN FUEL to therapy birds,
Thousands of children in England and Scotland get US journalist Tove
a healthy start to the day – one that helps ensure hunger Danovich explores
doesn’t stop them from learning – thanks to the charity the world of
Magic Breakfast. Host a Great Big Breakfast between chickens beyond the
17 and 30 April and ask friends, family or colleagues to farm gate, with
donate £3 to help more of the 4 million children in the anecdotes from her
UK affected by food poverty to thrive at school. own henhouse.
Visit [Link]/great-big-breakfast-2023 William Collins
£16.99

[Link] 11
 OVER TO YOU Delving into delicious.
STAR
EMAIL for education inspiration…
+ Subject: No waste – food or paper!
From: Jack
As a cookery teacher in a secondary school,
I often plan lessons around delicious. articles.
After attending a decluttering class, however,
I realised my back catalogue of magazines
was taking up too much space, so I set
about sorting recipes into a tidy folder.
You’ll be pleased to learn that very
little went to waste. Pages have been
upcycled into interesting displays, from
food waste (a subject that gets mentioned
STAR
daily in class) to burgers and pasta dishes PRIZE
(thanks for the huge variety over the years) and This month’s star
revision prompts... All from materials I might not have email wins a Magimix
seen for years. Thanks for keeping the magazine current. Le Micro Mini
Chopper, worth £60

Small, powerful
and easy to use,
Subject: Memories of France the mini chopper
purées, grinds,
From: Angie Coombs blends, liquidises
Debora Robertson’s feature [Feb, p54] was beautifully and, of course,
written and conjured up the atmosphere, smells and chops. With
an 800ml capacity,
sounds of the French fish markets. We spent a year
it’s compact and
travelling through France and Spain, and shopping for easy to stash away
dinner was a pleasure – I miss it dreadfully. I made the – ideal for smaller
haddock parmentier as a celebration of those times and kitchens. The
durable stainless
am so looking forward to reading more from Debora. steel blade makes
light work of
vegetables, nuts,
herbs and spices,
while the pulse
Subject: 30 a week Subject: What about sobriety? function allows for
is do-able From: Lou Milligan control over texture
From: Barbara Rhodes I love delicious. but why not and consistency.
[Link]
I enjoyed the 30 plant include a booze-free option in the
foods a week feature drinks section each month? There
[Feb, p112]. I first are lots of people who don’t drink
came across this idea alcohol for various reasons but FOR YOUR
in 2021 and gave it would like new ideas. There are CHANCE TO WIN
a go. Being a bit loads of breweries offering low/ A MAGIMIX
nerdy, I set up a zero alcohol drinks and lots of MINI CHOPPER...
spreadsheet to record alcohol free ‘spirits’. Let us know your
items and keep track delicious. replies… You’re thoughts on this
of duplications. It made me think carefully about absolutely right, Lou, and from month’s issue by
what I was cooking, and my weekly average after next month a no-alcohol option will emailing us at
a month was 54. To me, it makes far more sense be a regular in the drinks pages info@delicious
than the much publicised five-a-day. rather than an occasional item. [Link] *

12 [Link]
 delicious. world.

Follow us on social @deliciousmag

Meet the reader Can you

air-fryer it?
It’s the appliance
of the moment. We
asked on Instagram:
what do you cook in yours?
@spark_and_fable cookies, muffins,
Bob Brogan lives in Hertfordshire, where he One hack we found baked oats,
enjoys buying meat from his local farm – and was putting potato fondants, single serve I used to be an air fryer
has made his own bacon and sausages peel in it with salt and bread pudding (in denier but now I can’t
oil, then you have a ramekins). Instead imagine not having
“My son is my food hero” bowl of crisps to enjoy of a microwave to one. I use it constantly
while you’re cooking! heat up leftovers
When did you start cooking? After my @jangles1971 Roast
divorce. I had the great fortune to be @rum_ginge Obviously @mumming_after_ potatoes/parsnips,
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES, KRIS KIRKHAM, GARETH MORGANS. *CONTRIBUTIONS MAY BE EDITED FOR SPACE/CLARITY AND ARE PUBLISHED

encouraged by my brother-in-law, chef Steven chips, fries and wedges. cancer Lots of things, roasted veg, frittata,
Doherty, who worked at Le Gavroche. I did a fab enchilada but my fave is salmon aubergine parmigiana,
Favourite family recipe? Mince and tatties. bake in my Ninja grill fillet, lightly seasoned crisped/revitalised
ON THE BASIS THAT CONTRIBUTORS HAVE THE AGREEMENT OF ANYONE MENTIONED FOR ANY PERSONAL INFORMATION TO BE PUBLISHED

Cheer-up meal? Homemade apple pie, as my however you like. bread, sausages,
mum used to make it. @rebases ‘Roasted’/ 10 min in the air fryer bacon, fish fingers,
Kitchen stalwart? My (hefty) chef’s pan. fried veggies: potatoes, and it’s every time baked ham...
Cookery secret weapon? Belief that the sweet potatoes,
recipe will always work. cauliflower, carrots… @blacksalt_culinary @astderhaa Gözleme,
Treasured food memory? Arranging a cookery Falafels, vegan patties. They make the best crispy chickpeas,
demo with Albert Roux at my kids’ school. Sweet small bakes: pork crackling ever... kebab, chips...
A great evening that raised plenty of dosh.
Cooking tip? Understanding the effect adding
JOIN THE CHAT
in or leaving out something will have. Steven
Connect with other delicious. food lovers on social @deliciousmag
told me when you can do that, you can cook.
or join our Facebook group at [Link]/foodlovers
Spring treat? Jersey royals.
Food hero? My son, who is a head chef in
Melbourne.
Food zero? Sprouts – and any highly ON THE HUNT FOR EASTER INSPO?
processed food.
Favourite celebrity chef? Rick Stein, for his Herby dijon roast beef, crispy
travelogues and easy-to-follow recipes. potatoes with wild garlic
And when you’re not cooking? I like to grow
herbs, love sports (from my sofa) and play
pesto mayo, hot cross bun
hand drums – which I got into from being trifle (left)… If you’re in need
in a Samba band for a few years. of last-minute ideas for your
Easter weekend feast, head
WOULD YOU LIKE TO BE to [Link]/
INTERVIEWED?
Email a few words about yourself easterweekend to inspire
to info@[Link] your menu planning.
What’s new, what’s great, what we rate – including bargain
buys and an eco pick – all chosen by editor Karen Barnes

1. THE SMART TABLE 2. BRING ME 3. 1930s LOOK 4. SPIN DRY

I first came across Braided FLOWERS If you want an impactful I used to think salad spinners
Rug Company place mats in A fluted vase in vibrant cake stand for displaying were space-hoggers, but I’ve
a little shop in Deal last year green: the home-trend Polly Coupland’s spiced realised they’re a game-
and couldn’t resist them. colour of the moment. But bakes and desserts on changer when it comes to
Stored neatly in a matching that doesn’t matter really p54, I’d go for this one from quick prep. Oxo Good Grips
jute basket, the mats come – what matters is that it’s Sous Chef (yes, the website now has a mini version that’s
in umpteen colourways, but a gorgeous shade for now sells a whole lot more than still a reasonable size for
I love the green. There are or in 10 years’ time. This ingredients). It’s made from leaf-washing – and it doubles
matching coasters and table well priced piece is made hand-pressed jadeite glass as a salad bowl. Little salad
runners, too. £39 for from sodalime glass. and available in three sizes. and herb spinner, £27.50;
6 x 23cm mats; £49 for Sass & Belle 21cm high 6in, £37.50; 10in, £67.50; larger version, £32.50,
6 x 30cm, [Link] vase, £16, [Link] 12in, £82.50, [Link] [Link]
 in the know.

SPLURGE
VS SAVE
5
SPLURGE
Elegance in candle
form, bringing with
it the scents of March,
April, spring: hyacinth,
fresh green leaves and
6 daffodils, with hints of
willow (I’ve no idea what
willow smells like, but…).
The container is recycled
glass, the wax is a
plant-based mix of soy,
coconut and rapeseed,
and the candle is
hand-poured in Britain.
If you’re buying as a gift,
you can request a
personalised handwritten
note – nice touch.
60 hour burn time; £40
each, [Link]

5. BARGAIN 6. ART HOUSE 7. BOTANICAL

UNDER £5 Fresh green limes for BEAUTY
Spatulas are one of the a corner that needs How beautiful is this?
most-used utensils, but brightening up with Beautiful enough to make
you don’t often find one in stylish food-themed art you cast aside the white SAVE
green (if you’re going in for in the colours of spring. stuff, I reckon. The pattern A candle scented with
kitchen colour-matching). Les Agrumes No2 poster, is inspired by illustrations mint and cedar, with an
This one looks smart, 50 x 70cm, from £9.95 from Kew’s Royal Botanic impressive 50 hour burn
does the job – and comes to £37 depending on Gardens. Made in Portugal time. Once the candle
in at a bargain price. size and whether or not from durable stoneware, is all used up, clean the
Silicone wood spatula, you choose a frame, each piece is unique. jar and you can use it as
£4.95 (or buy three utensils [Link] (sold in dollars; Charger plate, £24, a tealight holder. Avmåla
for £9.95), [Link] shipped from Sweden) [Link] candle, £5, [Link]

[Link] 15
in the know.

The booklist
Fermentation magic, luscious fruit-laden bakes and pasta to
get excited about… Award-winning food writer and cook
Mark Diacono chooses the cream of recent cookbook releases

ANDAZA PASTA
Scotland-based MASTERCLASS
Sumayya If you’re familiar
Usmani’s with London-
exploration based chef
of the food of Mateo Zielonka’s
Pakistan is full Instagram feed
of enticing Book or his first book,
recipes, but this is a memoir, too, of the you’ll not be disappointed with
about growing up as a woman in month this colourful, practical deep-
Pakistan in the 1980s and 90s, dive into all things pasta. There
and how cooking helped Sumayya are techniques for various doughs
find her place in the world. and all manner of shapes – from
Recipe I can’t wait to make: sorpresine to farfalle – as well as
Bitter lemon, mustard seed and fillings and sauces. A delight.
garlic pullao. Recipe I can’t wait to make:
I didn’t know that... Andaza Agnolini mantovani with pumpkin
means ‘estimation’, in the sense and amaretti (a stuffed pasta).
of cooking relying on the senses.
Murdoch Books £25, out 13 April
Love is a Pink Cake I didn’t know that... Scraps left
from cutting pasta are known as
– look out for exclusive recipes Owner of East London’s Violet Bakery, maltagliati, meaning ‘poorly cut’.
in next month’s issue ex-Chez Panisse pastry chef and baker Quadrille £26, out 20 April
of cakes for royals, Claire Ptak has
OF CABBAGES CUCINA
AND KIMCHI credentials that are as impressive as POVERA
As a longtime this beautiful book. It’s divided to Tuscan food
fermenter, reflect the two sides of her life, with writer and
I wondered recipes such as black tea poppy seed blogger (Juls’
how much Kitchen) Giulia
muffins from her California birthplace,
James Read’s Scarpaleggia
illustrated book on its joys and and apricot, chamomile and honey celebrates Italian rustic cooking,
benefits might have for me. I’m scones from her English home. The where l’arte dell’arrangiarsi – the
delighted to say: a great deal. book is full of recipes that celebrate art of making do with what you
There are adaptable methods for have – turns seasonal ingredients,
the seasons, and Claire introduces you
sauerkraut, kombucha, soy and cheaper cuts and storecupboard
more, plus lively recipes, such as
to her favourite growers. There are staples into great meals. Expect
soy caramel dark chocolate tart, plenty of tips to build confidence and classics, stews, breads and
that spring from them. A book to improve technique, too. more, along with surprises such
inspire confidence in newcomers as Sicilian watermelon pudding.
and engage the converted. Recipe I can’t wait to make: Pistachio Recipe I can’t wait to make:
Recipe I can’t wait to make: green plum cake with candied violets. Chestnut flour maltagliati
Kefir pannacotta with mandarin I didn’t know that… Early in his career, (see Pasta Masterclass review
and thyme. Andy Warhol illustrated etiquette expert above) with porcini sauce.
I didn’t know that... In Germany, I didn’t know that... Chestnut
tinsel is nicknamed ‘silver-plated
Amy Vanderbilt’s cookbook (Claire flour is best stored in the
sauerkraut’. named her book after a set of Warhol’s freezer, as it has a short shelf
Particular Books £22 prints). Square Peg £27, out 6 April life. Artisan £30, out 4 April

16 [Link]
 voices in food.

A piña colada
with Shivi Ramoutar
The food writer and TV presenter talks about finding fun in life,
sharing the love for Caribbean cuisine – and her hidden talent

When I was young, I wanted to be food. Leicester has an incredible

a songwriter and pianist. It was my Caribbean community and my mum
passion. I studied music and played would take us to a local centre after
concerts from an early age. But it wasn’t school where we’d have oxtail and
seen as a career so I practised law instead all the food we had back in Trinidad.
– until I was made redundant, which was That was a huge part of our childhood.
a blessing in disguise as that’s when
I started to immerse myself in food and It’s a dream having my food
INTERVIEW: KERRY FOWLER. PHOTOGRAPH: ALUN CALLENDER. P&O CRUISES IS PART OF CARNIVAL CORPORATION &

cooking. But I still write songs and play enjoyed on a gorgeous ship in
the piano as an antidote to everyday life. the Caribbean, as a Food Hero
PLC AND HAS BEEN FOR OVER 20 YEARS. IT IS AN ENTIRELY SEPARATE COMPANY FROM P&O FERRIES

for P&O Cruises. My food isn’t

My first cookbook was Roald Dahl’s super cheffy – unlike other Food
Revolting Recipes. It instilled in me the Heroes such as Marco Pierre
idea that food is fun. My parents probably White. It’s home cooking but
weren’t so impressed because I’d use SHIVI’S FAMILY slightly elevated for the setting.
every piece of equipment in the kitchen! FEAST The food is reminiscent of the
Cooking is all about experimenting, and “During the school smells, the vibrancy and colours
I still do that now. Find that joy. holidays I’ll be cooking of the place that means so much
Caribbean food with to me. Food to make you smile.
We moved around as children from my kids – it’s fun and
Trinidad to New York and then to part of their heritage. My mind goes off on a whirl all
England. The constant throughout was We’ll make stew the time. I never stop thinking.
my mum’s and grandmother’s cooking. chicken – one of my So, my motto for this year is to have
Mum would send me to school with mum’s specialities more fun. Whether it’s in food or in
a tiffin box of Sunday leftovers when – with macaroni pie, life, don’t take things too seriously…
we lived in Leicester. The kids could greens, red beans and What’s the worst that can happen?
be brutal – it was so different from what rice. The kids love
they were eating – and there were times weighing things. Shivi is collaborating with P&O
I longed to have a cheese sandwich and And I’ll have a joyful Cruises to bring exclusive menus
a Wagon Wheel instead. Now I think piña colada to help get to Caribbean holidays on new ship
I was the luckiest girl to have had that me through!” Arvia. Visit [Link]

[Link] 17
Bring me my spears!
There isn’t a more exciting time
of year for food than when
British asparagus hits the shops,
but it’s only around for a month
or two, so grab every eating
opportunity while the season
lasts. Each of these recipes
showcases a different method
of cooking the succulent spears,
using every last part to make
sure nothing ends up in the bin
RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING
POLLYANNA COUPLAND AND EMILY GUSSIN
PHOTOGRAPHS TOM SHINGLER
 season’s best.

Shaved asparagus
salad with goat’s
cheese, watercress
and grapefruit

BELOW THE SNAP: ESSENTIAL PREP WISDOM discard, starting at the broken end. When your knife
Most of us prepare asparagus by bending the starts to meet serious resistance or ‘woodiness’,
spears until they snap – separating the woody, that’s when you stop. The rounds you cut off should
more fibrous stalk from the tender tip. It’s a solid be included in your recipe; save the woody leftovers
technique but a little wasteful, as that snapped- in the freezer for stock (or use to make a crunchy
off end usually ends up in the bin. topping for your dish, like the gremolata on p24).
Once you’ve snapped your spear, use a sharp With such a fleeting season, putting asparagus
knife to finely slice rounds from the bit you’d usually in the bin should be avoided at all costs! →

[Link] 19
 Asparagus is just as good • 200g soft goat’s cheese (we
used abergavenny), chopped
DON’T
WASTE
Keep the pickle liquid
as it can be reused to
raw as it is cooked – as this into small chunks
IT
pickle other vegetables
salad sets out to prove. Using • 1 tsp sumac – finely sliced cucumber or
radishes are our favourites.
a vegetable peeler to create 1 Use a small serrated knife to
ribbons of asparagus ensures top and tail a grapefruit. Sit on • 300g asparagus
one of the cut ends and cut down • 100ml cider vinegar
they’re good and tender but the side of the fruit, following • 50g caster sugar
still have that crunch and its natural curve, to remove the • 1 tsp yellow mustard seeds
skin and white pith. Holding the • ½ tsp dried dill
grassy taste, which works grapefruit over a small bowl to • 160g tin tuna in sunflower
wonderfully with the tang of catch any juice, cut in between oil, drained
the membranes to remove the • 1 medium free-range egg yolk
grapefruit and creaminess individual segments, then put • 75ml olive oil
of the goat’s cheese them in another small bowl. • Juice 1 lemon
Repeat with the second fruit. • ¼ red onion, very finely
2 Squeeze the leftover chopped
membranes over the juice bowl • Dill sprigs to garnish
to extract the rest of the juice. • Extra-virgin olive oil to drizzle
Whisk the honey and oil into the
grapefruit juice, then season 1 Trim off the woody ends of the
with a pinch of salt and pepper. asparagus (remember to save
3 Toast the pumpkin seeds in them for stock), then put the
a small dry frying pan for a few spears in a pan with the vinegar,
minutes until they start to pop 100ml water, sugar, mustard
and crack. seeds and dried dill. Bring to the
4 Use a vegetable peeler to boil, then simmer for 2 minutes.
carefully shave ribbons of Take off the heat and set aside
asparagus into a large bowl. the spears to cool in the liquid.
Shaved asparagus Scatter over a little salt, then 2 To make the sauce, put the
salad with goat’s add the watercress. Pour over tuna and egg yolk in a food
cheese, watercress the dressing and toss to coat. processor and whizz together.
and grapefruit 5 Serve the salad on a large Then, with the motor still
Serves 4 (or 6 as a side) platter. Arrange the grapefruit running, slowly drizzle in the
Hands-on time 20 min segments and goat’s cheese on olive oil in a thin stream. If the
top, scatter over the toasted mixture seems a little thick after
There’s no need to pumpkin seeds, then sprinkle adding all the oil, add a splash
KNOW-
HOW snap the woody end off with the sumac. of water – you want it to be a
the asparagus spears Per serving (for 6) 212kcals, little thicker than double cream,
here because they’re shaved 15.6g fat (7g saturated), 9.6g but still loose enough to pour.
into thin ribbons. Even the more protein, 7g carbs (6.7g sugars), Taste and season with plenty
fibrous parts of the stalk will be 0.5g salt, 2.4g fibre of lemon juice, salt and pepper.
nice and tender. 3 Pour the sauce onto a serving
Replace the pumpkin Pickled asparagus dish, then drain the asparagus
EASY
SWAPS seeds with any nuts tonnato and arrange the spears on top.
or seeds you fancy (or Serves 2 Sprinkle over the red onion and
happen to have in the cupboard). Hands-on time 20 min dill sprigs, then finish with a
drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.
• 2 pink or ruby grapefruit The tuna sauce is Per serving 653kcals, 47.2g fat
BE A
• 2 tsp runny honey BETTER an emulsion (like (7g saturated), 26g protein,
COOK
• 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil a mayonnaise). If it 29.1g carbs (28.7g sugars),
• 1 tbsp pumpkin seeds (see starts to split, you can beat 0.7g salt, 3.7g fibre →
Easy Swaps) in a splash of iced water,
• 250g asparagus which should bring it back
• 50g watercress to a smooth and silky sauce.

20 [Link]
 season’s best.

Pickled
asparagus
tonnato

A stunning plate inspired by the northern Italian dish vitello tonnato,

which is finely sliced roast veal topped with a silky tuna sauce and zingy
capers. Our version switches the meat for quick-pickled asparagus, a
sharp counterpoint to the creamy fish sauce. A perfect dish for spring
 Asparagus
tikka masala

Asparagus isn’t a regular

in Indian cooking, but
the gentle spices of
‘British’ tikka masala go
beautifully with smoky,
lightly charred spears
 season’s best.

Pancetta-wrapped • 12 asparagus spears, ends thyme next to them and top it

asparagus with baked trimmed (reserve for stock) with the block of feta. Drizzle in
feta and chilli honey • ¼ bunch thyme a little oil and sprinkle the feta
Serves 2-4 • 200g block feta with freshly cracked black
Hands-on time 10 min • Olive oil to drizzle pepper. Put in the hot oven for
Oven time 20 min • Crusty bread to serve (optional) 10-15 minutes until the pancetta
is crisp and the feta is golden.
The chilli honey will last 1 First make the chilli honey. 3 Drizzle the chilli honey over the
SCALE
IT UP indefinitely and the Toast the chillies in a dry pan feta and return to the oven for
flavour develops, so for a few minutes, then roughly 5 more minutes, then serve
you could scale up the amount. chop and return to the pan with warm, spreading the feta over
Around 8-10 chillies is enough the honey. Stir, then take off the the asparagus spears or using
for a 330ml jar of honey. heat and set aside to cool. bread to scoop it up.
2 Heat the oven to 200ºC fan/ Per serving (for 4) 341kcals,
• 3 dried red chillies gas 7. Wrap a pancetta slice 22g fat (10.4g saturated), 15g
• 100g runny honey around each asparagus spear protein, 20g carbs (20g sugars),
• 12 slices pancetta and put in an oven dish. Put the 2.7g salt, 1.4g fibre →

Sweet and salty, fiery and

fresh, this covers the flavour
spectrum and is brilliant
served as a starter or as part
of a small plates spread
 1 To make a stock, snap off the Lemony chicken and
woody ends of the asparagus and spring veg broth with
put them in a pan with 700ml asparagus gremolata
water (and any other peelings Serves 2
– see Eco Tip). Put over a Hands-on time 25 min
medium heat, bring to the boil, Simmering time 15 min
then simmer for 15 minutes until
reduced to 500ml. Meanwhile, The quality of your
KNOW-
melt the ghee in a large pan and HOW chicken stock is key
add the onions with a large pinch to the flavour of the
of salt. Cook over a low-medium broth, so use fresh (or, even
Asparagus tikka masala heat until very soft and better, homemade) if you can.
Serves 4 caramelised – at least 15 minutes. See the recommendation on
Hands-on time 30 min 2 Toast the peppercorns, p122 or search homemade stock
Simmering time 45 min cardamom, star anise, clove and at [Link].
cinnamon in a hot dry pan for a Any leftover gremolata
DON’T
Don’t be tempted to rush few minutes until fragrant, leave WASTE can be kept in the fridge
BE A IT
the onions. They need a
BETTER to cool a little, then crush into a for up to 2 days.
COOK
long, slow cook to give a powder with a spice grinder or
silky texture to the sauce. They’ll pestle and mortar. Transfer the • 2 tbsp olive oil
turn sweet in the process, too, spices to a blender along with • 2 free-range skinless chicken
which counteracts any acidity the garlic, ginger, chilli, coriander breasts
from the tomatoes. stalks, tomato purée and garam • 350g new potatoes, sliced into
Add the onion and garlic masala, then whizz into a thick coins
ECO
TIP ends/peels, chilli stalk smooth paste, adding 3-5 tbsp • 120ml white wine
and tomato vines to the water a little at a time as needed. • 500ml chicken stock
stock, and make it a full-on zero 3 Add the paste to the onions • 200g asparagus
waste dinner. and cook for a few minutes until • 10g flatleaf parsley, finely
If you’re able to get hold thickened. Just as it begins to chopped
NEXT
TIME of any, stir some chopped catch on the bottom of the pan, • 1 small garlic clove
wild garlic leaves into add the diced tomatoes. Strain • 2 lemons
the sauce at the end (see p70). the stock through a fine sieve • 200g peas, defrosted if frozen
into the pan, then leave to • Handful pea shoots (optional)
• 2 bunches asparagus simmer for 35 minutes. • 50g greek yogurt
• 2 tbsp ghee (or vegetable oil) 4 By this time the sauce should
• 2 onions, finely sliced have thickened. Pour in the cream 1 Heat half the oil in a shallow
• ¼ tsp black peppercorns and ground almonds and simmer sauté pan or casserole with a lid.
• Seeds from 6 cardamom pods for 10 minutes more. Meanwhile, Season the chicken, then add to
• 1 star anise put a griddle pan over a very the pan and cook for 2-3 minutes
• 1 clove high heat and toss the on each side until browned.
• ½ cinnamon stick asparagus spears with a drizzle Transfer to a plate and set aside.
• 6 garlic cloves of oil, a squeeze of fresh lemon 2 Add the remaining oil to the
• 4cm piece ginger juice and some salt and pepper. pan, followed by the sliced
• 1 red chilli, deseeded Once the pan is smoking hot, add potatoes. Fry for 5 minutes,
• ½ bunch coriander, stalks and the asparagus and cook for a few stirring frequently, then add the
leaves separated, leaves minutes until charred all over. wine and leave to bubble until
chopped 5 Taste the tikka masala sauce reduced by half (about 4
• 1 tbsp tomato purée and season with salt and lemon minutes). Pour in the chicken
• 2 tbsp garam masala juice, then stir in the chopped stock and bring up to a simmer.
• 500g vine tomatoes, diced coriander leaves and charred Nestle the chicken in the pan
• 150ml double cream asparagus spears. Serve with (it should be fully submerged in
• 50g ground almonds rice and/or flatbreads. stock), then cover and simmer
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil Per serving 474kcals, 39.2g fat gently for 6 minutes.
• Juice 1 lemon (17.8g saturated), 10.2g protein, 3 Meanwhile, snap or trim the
• Rice and/or flatbreads 17.1g carbs (11.7g sugars), woody ends from the asparagus.
to serve 0.1g salt, 6g fibre Cut the spears in half and set →

24 [Link]
 season’s best.

A mix of springtime veg happily

bobs away in a lemony chicken
broth – complete with a tender
chicken breast and a welcome hit
of zesty, crunchy gremolata
 aside, then finely slice the Sichuan-style dry-fried Farinata with asparagus,
woody ends into discs. Put asparagus with pork trout, poached egg and
the discs in a small sieve over mince hollandaise
a bowl and sprinkle with salt Serves 2 (or 4 as a side) Serves 4
to help soften them a little. Hands-on time 30 min Hands-on time 30 min
Put the parsley in another Oven time 14 min
small bowl, then use a fine Sichuan pepper provides
KNOW-
grater to grate the garlic and HOWa mouth-tingling heat and Farinata – a thick, fluffy
the zest of 1½ lemons into it. is available from most Italian pancake made with
4 Stir the peas and halved spears major supermarkets. chickpea flour – is a great
into the broth. Cover and gently
MAKE
Use finely chopped base for all sorts of toppings.
simmer for 3-4 minutes until the IT
VEGGIE
shiitake mushrooms This combination makes
chicken is cooked through and instead of pork mince. a cracking brunch.
the veg is tender. Season with
black pepper, divide between • Vegetable oil to shallow-fry If you have the time, let
KNOW-
bowls, then finish with the zest • 250g fine asparagus HOW the farinata batter rest
of the remaining ½ lemon, a • 1 tbsp garlic paste for half an hour before
squeeze of lemon juice and (if • 1 tbsp ginger paste cooking – this lets the flour fully
using) the pea shoots. • 4 dried red chillies, soaked in hydrate for a fluffier texture.
5 Mix the salty sliced asparagus hot water for a few minutes To make it easier and
EASY
with the parsley mix to create • 3 tsp sichuan peppercorns, SWAPS faster, you can use shop-
a gremolata, then serve this on 2 tsp ground, 1 tsp left whole bought hollandaise. If
the side with the yogurt. • 150g pork mince you can’t get trout, use salmon.
Per serving 610kcals, 15.8g fat • 2 tbsp light soy sauce Or, for a vegetarian option, serve
(4.5g saturated), 58.7g protein, • 2 tbsp shaoxing wine with fried chestnut mushrooms.
41.8g carbs (8.3g sugars), 0.6g • 1 tbsp sugar
salt, 11.1g fibre • 150g gram flour
1 Pour vegetable oil into a pan • 1 tsp salt
or wok to a depth of about 3cm • 300ml warm water
TRUST US – YOU HAVE TO and put over a medium-high heat. • 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil,
TRY THE GREMOLATA! Once shimmering hot, fry the plus extra to fry
If there’s one thing to take away asparagus until just starting to • 1 rosemary sprig, leaves picked
from these pages, it’s the wrinkle – about 5 minutes. You • 2 trout fillets (about 240g total)
asparagus gremolata in the dish may need to work in batches to • 200g asparagus, ends trimmed
above – it’s an incredible way to avoid overcrowding the pan. Drain • 4 medium free-range eggs
use up the more fibrous ends of on kitchen paper, patting dry • Small bunch chives, chopped
the spears that usually get thrown with paper to remove excess oil.
in the bin. By slicing them finely 2 Remove all the oil from the For the hollandaise
and salting them to help break wok except for 1 tbsp. Add the • 2 medium free-range egg yolks
down the fibrous texture, you’re garlic and ginger pastes and fry • ½ tsp white wine vinegar
rewarded with a crunchy topping until soft but not coloured. Add • 125g unsalted butter
that’s brilliant on so many dishes. the drained chillies and sichuan • Pinch cayenne pepper
peppercorns, then the pork
mince. Allow to brown and crisp 1 Heat the oven to 200°C fan/
for 5 minutes, then add the soy gas 7. Put the gram flour in a
Our sichuan-style asparagus sauce, shaoxing wine and sugar. bowl with the salt. Gradually
uses a Chinese technique Cook for another minute or so whisk in the warm water until
until the sugar has dissolved and smooth, then add 1 tbsp of the
called gan chao or ‘dry frying’. the sauce coats the mince. oil. Set aside. Heat a heavy oven-
The asparagus is stir-fried Return the asparagus to the pan safe frying pan (about 25cm)
and stir to combine, then serve over a high heat until almost
until it starts to wrinkle, giving with rice or other dishes. smoking. Add enough oil to coat
it a pleasant, slightly chewy Per serving (for 4) 161kcals, the base, then fry the rosemary
10.1g fat (1.8g saturated), 9.5g for a few seconds. Pour the
texture. In Sichuan they often protein, 7.1g carbs (6.2g sugars), gram flour mixture into the pan,
cook green beans this way 1.3g salt, 1.6g fibre tilting it so it’s evenly spread.

26 [Link]
 season’s best.

Cook for about 30 seconds until

it starts to bubble, then transfer
to the oven and bake for 12-14
minutes until golden and crisp.
2 Put the trout fillets on a
baking tray, then season and
coat with 1 tbsp of the oil. Roast
the trout alongside the farinata
for 10-12 minutes until opaque.
Once the farinata and trout are
cooked, turn the oven off and
leave them inside to keep warm.
3 While the farinata and trout
cook, make the hollandaise. Put
the egg yolks and vinegar in a
heatproof bowl with a pinch of
salt and a splash of cold water.
Bring a small pan of water to a
gentle simmer. Meanwhile, put
the butter in a separate pan over
a very low heat to melt.
4 Use a balloon whisk to whisk
the yolk mixture for 2 minutes Farinata with
asparagus, trout,
until completely smooth and poached egg and
slightly frothy, then sit it over hollandaise
the simmering water (don’t let
the bowl touch the water) and
whisk for 3-5 minutes until pale
Sichuan-style
and thick. Remove from the
dry-fried
heat. Skim off any white solids asparagus with
that have formed on the surface pork mince
of the melted butter, then pour
the clarified butter into the yolks
in a steady stream while whisking
constantly until you have a
creamy hollandaise. Season with
salt and the cayenne, then set
aside next to the hob.
5 Bring the pan of water back to
the boil, then add the asparagus
and cook for 2-3 minutes until
just tender. Remove with a
slotted spoon, then turn the heat
down to a simmer and poach
4 eggs to your liking (3 minutes
for firm with a runny yolk).
6 Cut the farinata into wedges
and divide among plates. Flake
over the trout and top each
with an egg. Add the asparagus,
spoon over the hollandaise and
sprinkle with chives.
Per serving 638kcals, 47.2g fat
(20.7g saturated), 29.3g protein,
21.5g carbs (1.9g sugars), 2.2g
salt, 4.9g fibre
 MY COOKING YEAR: APRIL

Anchovies make
everything better

Potato
pissaladière
 voices in food.

They’re the canny cook’s secret

ingredient – an instant flavour-bomb
to give so many dishes that elusive
oomph. Anchovy-fiend Debora
Robertson is lucky enough to live
in the part of France that produces
the best little fishes for her dishes
RECIPE DEBORA ROBERTSON PHOTOGRAPH TOM SHINGLER FOOD STYLING EMILY GUSSIN

D
uring our first year living in our new house 800 fishermen working the shores of Collioure, but
in France, every spare moment was spent today there remain only two families, the Roques and
scrubbing a skirting board or digging out the Desclaux, whose jars and tins of anchovies grace
the bamboo that had colonised the garden. the shelves of dozens of shops that line the town’s
I imposed this on myself, though – no one was grading streets. Some of the tins are so beautiful, you don’t
me. Why was I doing this? Perhaps now I’d moved to want to open them.
the place I’d always visited on holiday, I was going to The tiny fish are still processed in the traditional
extreme lengths to prove to my own puritanical heart way, by hand. First, they are salted for two to three
that this wasn’t a holiday now, it was real life – and I’d weeks before being gutted. Then they’re salted again
just better pull on my Marigolds and get on with it. and pressed under a weight for three months, before
Of course, I’m not as puritanical as all that, and being skinned, deboned and packed in salt, oil or brine.
sooner or later – with the emphasis on the sooner – In many dishes, anchovies provide a deeply savoury
I was inevitably going to take off the Marigolds (size back note often undetectable to those who think they
Large, gifts begged from English visitors, my hands don’t care for them (though I remember when my
being too fat for even the largest French washing up nephew was very small and we turned him into an
gloves) and play truant from ancho-holic by telling him that
skirting board duty. their taste was probably too grown
On one of those first truanting “When I’m not up for him – resulting in him
days, we took off down the coast wanting them with every meal).
road, past Narbonne, past
fishing them out of I often add anchovies to sauces,
Perpignan, to Collioure, the the jar to add them marinades or dressings when
colourful town close to the Spanish they need a little extra to lift them,
border that nestles between the
raw to a dish or or to sautéed vegetables as I do in
Pyrenees and the Mediterranean. popping them into this month’s recipe for my version
It has long been a favourite with of pissaladière. You can dissolve
artists. Matisse, Dufy and Picasso
my mouth with oily them into almost nothing in warm
all spent time there. Vines grow fingers, I love to cook butter or oil, but their flavour will
right up to the edges of the town, permeate the final dish in a
and it produces some great dry
with anchovies” near-imperceptibly delicious way.
reds and sweet banyuls wines. I love to make anchovy butter
But what the town is really famous for is its – a few fillets smooshed together with softened
anchovies, the finest in France. There’s been an butter and lemon juice, sometimes with an added
anchovy industry here since the Middle Ages, splash of Tabasco – to serve with grilled fish, or
and so important was it that, in 1466, Louis XI simply on hot toast. Or I’ll make bagna cauda, that
exempted the town from paying the hated salt tax, Piedmontese sauce of warm butter, garlic, olive
salt being essential to the processing of the fish. oil and anchovies to serve with raw or cooked
In the 1870s, there were 140 boats and vegetables. On days when I want a quick, punchy →

[Link] 29
voices in food.

lunch, I simply load up a slice of thickly buttered 5 minutes) or turn out onto a
bread with slices of cucumber and radish, then drape lightly floured surface and knead
it exuberantly with fat anchovies with the sort of by hand (about 10 minutes).
insouciance that might suggest I live alone. Brush a clean bowl lightly with
When I’m not popping them into my mouth with oil, put the ball of dough in it and
oily fingers or using them raw in a dish, fishing them turn it over, cover with a clean
greedily out of the jar or tin (in the end I always tea towel and leave somewhere
succumb to the temptation of opening those tins, warm until doubled in size, which
however beautiful they may be), I love to cook with should take about an hour.
anchovies. A new favourite recipe of mine is the 3 Meanwhile, cook the onion
traditional Provençal dish of rabbit with anchovies topping. Warm the oil in a large,
and olives – it works just as well with chicken for Potato pissaladière heavy-based frying pan over a
the rabbit-averse. Serves 4 (or 8 with other dishes) low heat. Add 2 of the anchovies
Something I make almost every week from now Hands-on time 1 hour 25 min, and break them up with a
until the end of the summer, though, is anchoïade, plus 30 min resting wooden spoon – you want them
that bashed-together paste of anchovies, capers, Oven time 30 min to melt into the oil – then add
garlic, olive oil and vinegar, to be spread on bread or the thyme and bay leaf. Heap
croutons, or to use as a dip for vegetables. When it’s For the dough in the onions and garlic, sprinkle
a balmy 40°C in high summer and you’re glowing • 180ml just-warm water on the sugar and cinnamon, plus
like a horse, it’s one way of replacing the salt in your • 1 tsp dry active yeast a pinch of salt, then stir. Cook
blood. Astonishingly, I’m not a doctor, but I self- • 280g strong white bread flour, very slowly, stirring from time to
prescribe this summer butter to be taken as needed. plus extra to dust time and more frequently towards
And, in this house at least, it is often needed. • 3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra the end, until the onions are soft,
to brush golden and almost jammy. This
• 1 tsp sea salt will take about an hour. Fish out
• ½ tsp fresh thyme leaves the thyme sprigs and the bay leaf.
4 Boil or steam the potatoes until
For the topping tender. Let them cool a bit, then
IN MY FRENCH SHOPPING • 4 tbsp olive oil cut into thin slices.
BASKET THIS MONTH… • 14 anchovy fillets in olive oil, 5 Line a large baking sheet with
Mâche is what the French call drained baking paper. Turn out the dough
lamb’s lettuce, and I pick up • 4 thyme sprigs and stretch it on the baking
a bunch whenever I see it • 1 bay leaf sheet into a rectangle measuring
in a wooden crate by the • 4 large onions, halved and roughly 35cm x 25cm. Leave for
counter in the greengrocer. finely sliced 15 minutes while you heat the
I usually serve it on its own • 6 garlic cloves, finely sliced oven to 180°C fan/gas 6.
as our daily green salad, but • ½ tsp caster sugar 6 Stretch out the dough a little
sometimes I steam it to go • Large pinch ground cinnamon more on the sheet. Scatter on
with white fish. • 250g waxy potatoes – I like to half the onions, spreading them
Fourme d’ambert is a semi- leave the skin on but you can out until they almost reach the
hard blue cheese that’s been peel them if you prefer edges. Layer the potato slices on
produced in the Auvergne • 100g gruyère cheese, grated top, then cover with the rest of
since Roman times. Rich, • 20-24 pitted black olives the onions. Scatter on the
delicate and more mild than cheese, then the remaining
some blue cheeses, it’s great 1 First, make the dough. If you anchovies and finally the olives.
on the cheeseboard with have a stand mixer with a dough 7 Bake for 25-30 minutes until
dried fruit and nuts, or hook you can do it in that, but it the dough is golden and the top
crumbled in salads. doesn’t take long to make it by is bubbling. Remove from the
Rhubarb starts to appear in hand. In a bowl, whisk the water oven, slide onto a cooling rack
the market now. I start with with the yeast and about 70g of and brush the edge of the crust
good intentions, roasting it the flour. Leave for 15 minutes with olive oil. Serve warm or at
with orange juice and a little until little bubbles appear. room temperature.
honey to go with yogurt for 2 Stir in the remaining flour, olive Per serving (for 4) 709kcals,
breakfast, but inevitably pies oil, salt and thyme, then either 30.9g fat (8.5g saturated), 21.7g
and crumbles will appear too. knead with a dough hook until protein, 82g carbs (13.4g sugars),
elastic, smooth and glossy (about 2.1g salt, 8.4g fibre

30 [Link]
 Nathan Outlaw’s
fish revolution
Despite being surrounded by sea, we don’t eat much fish. Most of it
is exported to France and Spain, while we import a lot of the seafood
we do eat. Renowned chef Nathan Outlaw is determined to change
that by encouraging us all to eat a wider variety of fish and showing
us how to cook it in imaginative ways. These five recipes are a great
place to start, each showcasing a different cooking technique
RECIPES NATHAN OUTLAW PHOTOGRAPHS KATE WHITAKER

Port Isaac in
Cornwall, the county
Nathan Outlaw has
made his home
 fish inspo.

Nathan has
two seafood
restaurants
(each with a
Michelin star)
and a guest
house in
Port Isaac.
To find out
more, visit
[Link]

[Link] 33
Plaice and bass
braised in red wine
with shallots, peas &
oyster mushrooms

The technique
Braising
“Plaice and bass are a great pairing and, with this rich
sauce, make a dish that’s sure to please. The important
things here are to make sure the braise is reduced well
and seasoned perfectly before adding the fish, then to
keep the sauce to a simmer – be gentle, be nice!”
 fish inspo.

Plaice and bass braised ATI V E

RN
• 1 sea bass (around 1.5kg), impurities from the surface
in red wine with shallots, filleted and cut into portions and simmer for 5 minutes.

ALTE

FI
Turbot,
peas & oyster mushrooms • 200g peas, defrosted if frozen 2 Fry the oyster mushrooms in

SH
brill,
Serves 4 • 2 tbsp chopped flatleaf parsley a little oil, then add to the braise. flounder,
Hands-on time 20 min • Boiled new potatoes to serve 3 To cook the fish, submerge the petrale
Simmering time 40 min plaice and bass in the liquid, sole
1 To prepare the fish braising cover with foil or a lid and cook
• 175g unsalted butter liquid, heat a large, wide pan and gently for 6 minutes. Remove
• Olive oil to drizzle add 75g of the butter with a the foil/lid, carefully turn the
• 20 small shallots, peeled but drizzle of oil. When the butter fish and add the peas and
left whole has melted, add the shallots and parsley. Cook for 2 minutes,
• 2 tbsp caster sugar cook for 6 minutes. Add the sugar then take off the heat.
• 5 garlic cloves, finely chopped and cook until it caramelises, 4 Carefully pour off the braising
• 4 thyme sprigs allowing the shallots to colour liquid into a pan, put over a
• 4 bay leaves well. Add the garlic, thyme, bay medium heat and whisk in the
• 100ml red wine vinegar and vinegar, then bubble until remaining 100g butter, in pieces.
• 500ml full-bodied red wine reduced to almost nothing. Pour Pour the liquid back over the fish
• 500ml fish or chicken stock in the red wine and return to a and serve with new potatoes.
• 50g dried shiitake mushrooms simmer, continuing until reduced Per serving 1069kcals, 61.5g fat
• 400g oyster mushrooms by half. Now pour in the stock, (28.3g saturated), 77.8g protein,
• 1 plaice (around 1kg), filleted add the dried mushrooms and 25.2g carbs (12.8g sugars), 1.3g
and cut into portions bring to the boil. Skim off any salt, 4.7g fibre

The technique
Deep-frying
“These red mullet flavour bombs are really,
really good. Red mullet has such a unique
flavour, and cooking it using the bones and
offal in the stock and the flesh in the fritter
displays the versatility of the species”

Chilli red mullet fritters • 1 tbsp olive oil, plus a drizzle

with tomato & olive relish for the stock
Makes 24 (enough to serve 6) • 200ml dry white wine
Hands-on time 1 hour, plus chilling • 150g unsalted butter
Simmering time 1 hour 20 min • 2 banana shallots, finely sliced
Specialist kit Probe thermometer • 4 garlic cloves, chopped
• 100g chargrilled red peppers
This mix can be made up from a jar, drained and finely
NATHAN’S
TIPS to 6 months ahead and chopped
frozen before coating • ½ tsp chilli powder
with crumbs. The relish lasts well • 2 tsp crunchy peanut butter
in the fridge or freezer. • 120g plain flour, plus an extra
50g to coat
• 4 red mullets (300-400g each), • 2 medium free-range eggs, You can’t fry
filleted, skinned and pin-boned beaten better than a
(ask your fishmonger; keep all • 100g breadcrumbs quick fish fritter
the bones, livers and trimmings) • Sunflower oil to deep-fry →

[Link] 35
 For the relish 3 Slice and dice the red mullet
• 500g ripe tomatoes, fillets into roughly 1cm cubes
roughly chopped and add them to the sauce.
• 1 garlic clove, chopped Take off the heat, transfer to
• 2 tbsp chopped fresh ginger a tray and spread out to cool.
• 2 tsp allspice berries Once cool, put in the fridge
• 2 tsp black peppercorns for 1 hour to firm up.
• ½ tsp cayenne pepper 4 To make the tomato and olive
• 60ml white wine vinegar relish, put all the ingredients
• 100g caster sugar except the sugar and olives in
• 150g pitted black olives, a heavy-based pan with a pinch
finely chopped of salt, bring to a simmer and
cook gently, uncovered, for
For the salad 30 minutes. Stir in the sugar
• 1 banana shallot, finely sliced and cook for 30 minutes more
• 20 cherry tomatoes, sliced until the mixture thickens. Strain
• 10 pitted black olives, sliced through a sieve into a bowl
• 10 pitted green olives, sliced (discard what’s in the sieve) and
• 1 tbsp oregano leaves mix in the chopped black olives,
• 2 tsp red wine vinegar then leave to cool. This relish will
• 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil keep in the fridge in a sterilised
container for a couple of weeks.
1 First make a simple fish stock 5 When the red mullet mix has
with the red mullet bones. Chop set, divide it into portions, each
the bones and livers, then heat a weighing around 40g. Using
drizzle of oil in a large frying pan 2 spoons, shape each portion
over a medium heat. When the oil into a rough rugby ball shape,
is hot, add the red mullet bones then put in the freezer for
and livers and fry for 5-6 minutes 30 minutes to firm up.
until everything is cooked and 6 Make the shallot salad by
golden. Add the white wine, mixing all the ingredients
stirring to release any together in a large bowl, then
caramelised bits from the pan, set aside to mingle.
then cover with 600ml water. 7 When you’re ready to cook and
Simmer for 20 minutes. Skim off serve, put the beaten eggs in a
any impurities that rise to the small bowl, the flour in another
surface of the liquid, then pass and the breadcrumbs on a tray.
the liquid through a fine sieve Dust the red mullet shapes in
into another pan and keep warm. flour, then coat in the eggs and
2 Heat another large pan over a finally the breadcrumbs. Warm
medium heat and add the 1 tbsp the relish to take the chill off.
olive oil and the butter. When 8 Heat the sunflower oil in a
the butter is bubbling, add the large suitable pan to 180°C
shallots, garlic and red pepper. (don’t fill it more than two thirds
Cook for 5 minutes, stirring full). Fry the fritters, in batches
occasionally. Stir in the chilli as necessary, for 2-3 minutes,
powder, peanut butter and then transfer to kitchen paper
flour and cook for a further to drain and season with salt.
2 minutes. Measure out Serve at once, with the salad
450ml of the fish stock A T I V E and relish on the side.
and add it to the RN Per serving 893kcals,
ALTE

FI

mixture in roughly Mackerel, 50.6g fat (16.3g

SH

4 pours, cooking for grey mullet, saturated), 38.4g

1 minute every time bass, protein, 62.7g carbs
you add some. Season sea bass (23g sugars), 1.7g salt,
with salt and pepper. 4.3g fibre

36 [Link]
 fish inspo.

The technique
Baking
“This dish is ultra-
simple and, once you’ve
wrapped the fish in filo
a few times, you’ll be
a pro. These can be
eaten with your hands,
so if you want to make
them smaller to serve
as nibbles before
a meal, go for it”
Hake cigars with onions,
white wine, raisins and
saffron yogurt
Makes 12 (enough to serve 4)
Hands-on time 1 hour

The yogurt is best made the

MAKE
AHEAD day before to let the flavours
develop properly. Cover and
keep in the fridge for up to 3 days.
I love hake. The chunky flesh
NATHAN’S
TIPS
is soft when cooked and it’s
perfect for getting people
into eating fish. However, it needs a
little help to get it really tasty – more
seasoning than just salt and pepper.

• 800g hake fillet, skinned and

pin-boned
• 2 tsp ground cumin
• 2 tsp ground coriander
• 12 sheets filo pastry
• 100g unsalted butter, melted

For the filling

• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 2 onions, finely sliced
• 1 tsp ground cumin
• 1 tsp ground coriander
• 1 garlic clove, finely chopped
Hake cigars with
• ½ tsp saffron
onions, white
wine, raisins and • 200ml white wine
saffron yogurt • 100g golden or regular raisins →
 Cornwall’s rocky
coastline draws
tourists and
fishermen alike

For the yogurt onions at this point and season 4 Lay a slice of hake on the front
• 200g full-fat greek yogurt if required. Transfer the onion of a sheet and spread a portion
• 1 tsp saffron mix to a tray and spread out of the onion mix in an even line,
• 1 garlic clove, finely chopped to cool. Once cool, portion into alongside the fish. Bring the
• Finely grated zest and juice 12 little piles. sides of the filo up over the fish
1 lemon 3 Heat the oven to 180°C fan/ and onions, then roll the parcel
• 1 tbsp chopped mint gas 6. To make the cigar-shape away from you, wrapping it tight
• 1 tbsp chopped flatleaf parsley parcels, cut the hake into 12 and enclosing the ends. Once
equal-size strips, similar in size you have a cigar/spring roll
1 Put the yogurt, saffron, garlic, to a fish finger. Season the fish shape, transfer it to a greased or
lemon zest and juice, mint and with salt, pepper and almost all non-stick oven tray, seam-side
parsley in a bowl. Season with the cumin and coriander, saving down. Repeat with the rest.
salt and pepper and mix well. Set a good pinch. Take the filo 5 Arrange the parcels evenly on
aside or see Make Ahead. sheets and lay them on a clean, the tray, ensuring they’re not
2 For the filling, heat the oil in dry work surface. Make sure you touching – use 2 trays if you
a frying pan and, when hot, keep them covered with a clean, have to. Just before cooking,
add the onions, cumin and damp cloth, otherwise they’ll dry brush the parcels with a little
coriander and season with salt out and crack when you fold the more butter and cook for 8
and pepper. Cook over a medium parcels. One by one, take a filo minutes. When the parcels are
heat for 5-6 minutes, stirring sheet and lay it in front of you. golden and crisp, allow them to
occasionally. Add the garlic and Brush all over with melted butter rest for 5 minutes before
ATI V E cook for a further 2 minutes, using a pastry brush, then dust serving. Serve 3 of the hake
RN then add the saffron, white wine with a little of the reserved cigars per portion with the
ALTE

FI

Haddock, and raisins. Cook everything spices (you’ll need to dust all saffron yogurt on the side.
SH

coley, ling, down for roughly 20 minutes 12 sheets). Lay the second filo Per serving 957kcals, 36.7g fat
silver hake, until the liquid has reduced to sheet on top and repeat, then cut (16.7g saturated), 52.3g protein,
cobia
almost nothing and the onions the filo sheets in half crossways 92.2g carbs (25.9g sugars),
are well stewed. Taste the to create 2 rectangles. 1.6g salt, 6.7g fibre →

38 [Link]
 fish inspo.

Sardines with
feta, orange,
cucumber and
oregano salad in
an ouzo dressing

The technique
Grilling
“This salad came from a family holiday I had in Kefalonia. We were staying
in a beautiful house and I was cooking from what I picked up in the market.
When I got back home, I set about making a dish with what I had to hand in
Cornwall but inspired by that time away. Oh, and I had a bottle of ouzo!”
 and crumble over the feta. salad so everyone can help
3 Heat your grill to its highest themselves. You can eat the
setting. To cook the sardines, sardines straightaway or let
season them with salt and them cool and eat them cold.
pepper and brush with a little Whichever way you choose,
olive oil. Put skin-side up on a serve with lemon wedges for
grill tray and cook under the grill squeezing and chunks of bread
for 4 minutes, then set aside to alongside to mop up the juices.
rest for 4 minutes; the residual Per serving 578kcals, 30.2g fat
heat will finish the cooking. (14.4g saturated), 58.7g protein,
4 Once cooked, arrange the 12.2g carbs (11.5g sugars), 2.8g
Sardines with feta, sardines on the platter with the salt, 2.8g fibre
orange, cucumber
and oregano salad
in an ouzo dressing
Serves 4
Hands-on time 25 min The technique
Sardines are rich in
NATHAN’S
TIPS
omega-3 fatty acids,
Pan-frying
as are all oily fish, and
their bones are small and soft “This combination might not be something
so they can be eaten. you’ve ever considered – fish, beans and ham
• 2 tsp dijon mustard
– but trust me it’s delicious! It makes more
• 2 tbsp ouzo relish than you need, but the leftovers, with
• Pinch caster sugar
• 6 tbsp olive oil, plus extra
cheese, can be a bonus for another day”
to brush
• 2 oranges, 1 finely zested, John dory with beans, For the beans and ham
both segmented ham and roasted red • 2 tbsp olive oil
• 1 red onion, sliced pepper relish • 100g unsalted butter
• 2 medium cucumbers Serves 4 • 1 onion, finely chopped
• 2 tbsp chopped oregano leaves Hands-on time 40 min • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 300g feta, broken into chunks Simmering time 20 min • 2 celery sticks, finely sliced
• 12 sardines, gutted, scaled • 4 anchovy fillets in oil, chopped
and butterflied (ask your • 2 john dory, gutted, scaled and • 8 slices parma ham, sliced
fishmonger) filleted (ask your fishmonger) • 400g tin borlotti beans, drained
• Lemon wedges for squeezing • 1 tsp smoked paprika • 400g tin cannellini beans,
• Chunky bread for mopping • 2 tsp chopped thyme leaves drained
• 2 tbsp olive oil • 200ml fish or chicken stock
1 First make the dressing. Put the • Extra-virgin olive oil to drizzle • 3½ tbsp balsamic vinegar
mustard, ouzo, sugar, olive oil and • 1 tbsp thyme leaves
orange zest in a bowl, adding salt For the relish • 1 tbsp chopped celery
and pepper to taste, then whisk • 2 tbsp olive oil leaves
to combine. Add the onion and • 1 red onion, finely chopped • 1 tbsp chopped tarragon leaves
leave to stand for 10 minutes. • 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 Now make the salad. Halve the • 1 red chilli, deseeded and sliced 1 First make the relish. Put a
cucumbers lengthways, then • 2 tsp sweet smoked paprika large saucepan over a medium
scoop out the seeds with a ATI V E • 480g chargrilled red peppers heat. When the pan is hot, add
teaspoon. Cut into slices on an RN from a jar, roughly chopped the olive oil and fry the onion for
ALTE

FI

angle and tip them into a large • 400g tin chopped tomatoes 3 minutes until softened. Add the
Mackerel,
SH

bowl. Add the dressing, then the bream, bass, • 100g soft brown sugar garlic and chilli and cook for 2
oregano and orange segments, red snapper • 150ml red wine vinegar minutes more, stirring every now
then toss everything together. • 2 bay leaves and then. Add the smoked paprika
Arrange the salad on a platter • 2 thyme sprigs and the chopped red peppers

40 [Link]
 fish inspo.

and cook for 4 minutes. Finally,

add all the remaining ingredients
and cook over a low heat, stirring
occasionally, until the relish is
well reduced. Once the relish
starts to catch on the bottom of
the pan, stir continuously until it
looks like bubbling lava. Transfer
to a bowl and keep warm, or to
a container and leave to cool.
Once cooled the relish can be
stored in a sealed container in
the fridge for 2 weeks.
2 For the beans and ham, heat
the oil and half the butter in a
large pan over a medium heat.
When the butter starts to
bubble, fry the onion, garlic and
celery for 6 minutes, stirring
occasionally. Add the anchovy
fillets and parma ham and cook
for 5 minutes, stirring often. Now
add the beans, stock and vinegar,
then simmer gently for 5 minutes
while you cook your fish.
3 To cook the fish, season the
fillets all over with the smoked
paprika, thyme and 2 tsp salt.
Take a large non-stick pan and
heat it over a medium-high heat.
When hot, add the olive oil and John dory with beans,
lay the fish skin-side down (you ham and roasted
red pepper relish
may need to do this in batches,
depending on your pan). Fry the
fish for 3 minutes until the edges
start to turn golden, then
carefully turn the fish over and
reduce the heat slightly. Cook
for a minute more, then remove
the pan from the heat.
4 To serve, stir the herbs and
remaining butter into the beans,
stirring continuously until the
butter is incorporated. Taste for
salt and adjust if necessary.
Finish with black pepper. Divide
the beans among 4 warmed soup
dishes. Top with the cooked dory
and add a heaped spoonful of Recipes taken
relish on top of each fillet. Drizzle from Fish for
a little extra-virgin olive oil over Dinner by
each dish. Nathan Outlaw
Per serving 903kcals, 49.3g fat (Kyle Books
(18g saturated), 49.6g protein, £28) and
55.4g carbs (38.9g sugars), tested by
2g salt, 19.7g fibre delicious.
 One from the heart
“Every meal was
a bit of a fuss
with Grandma’”
There was no chance of going hungry
when Grandma Rene was cooking,
and tzimmes was one of the favourite
treats for Helen Graham and her family.
Here, the executive chef of Bubala’s two
Middle Eastern vegetarian restaurants
shares Rene’s recipe for the Ashkenazi
Jewish classic – a recipe to treasure

RECIPE: HELEN GRAHAM. PHOTOGRAPH: INDIA WHILEY-MORTON. FOOD STYLING: EMILY GUSSIN
“Tzimmes is a traditional Ashkenazi
side dish of stewed fruit and veg
that’s traditionally served on Rosh
Hashanah (Jewish New Year), with
its inherent sweetness signalling
a sweet new start. But it can be
enjoyed any time and is popular for
FAMILY TRADITIONS other holidays, such as Passover (5-13 April this year).
TO TREASURE The dish was something Grandma served as a
Helen Graham
as a child (right)
special treat alongside a roast chicken, and it was a
and her grandma real labour of love. A muddle of orange, root vegetables
Rene (above) and jammy fruit, tzimmes really does live up to its
name’s meaning in Yiddish: ‘making a fuss’.
Truth be told, every meal was a bit of a fuss with
my grandma; your plate would be loaded up to the
point where you were straining to see anything
beyond it. Failure to consume it all would be met
with concerned questioning over the state of your
health. And if, by some miracle, you did manage to
finish your ginormous plate of food, you’d have to →

42 [Link]
 voices in food.

“Failure to consume all Grandma’s food would be met with

concerned questioning over the state of your health”
voices in food.

lie down immediately afterwards.

This is quite a sweet dish –
‘Bubala’ is a Yiddish term of endearment,
think the Jewish equivalent of the often used by grandparents, that loosely
sweet potato and marshmallow translates as ‘darling’ or ‘sweetie’
pie served on Thanksgiving in the
US – and needs to be paired with
something deeply savoury for 1 Heat the oil in a medium
balance. A roast chicken, brisket saucepan over a low-medium
or short ribs work beautifully, and heat and add the onion, garlic,
if you want to keep it vegetarian cinnamon and salt. Cook
I’d go for rice and some sort of gently, stirring occasionally,
brassica braised in soy. This for 10 minutes until soft. Add
recipe is based on my grandma the baharat (or ground spices)
Rene’s, with my addition of rice and black pepper, then cook for
vinegar and the Middle Eastern a further 5 minutes.
spice blend baharat.” 2 Add all the remaining
ingredients to the pan, give
Tzimmes it a good stir and leave to gently
Serves 6 as a side simmer (uncovered) for 1½ hours.
HELEN’S STORY Hands-on time 25 min Stir the mixture occasionally but
After gaining an art history Simmering time 1½ hours gently. It’s ready when the liquid
degree, she cheffed at restaurants has almost fully reduced and the
including London’s The Palomar • 3 tbsp olive oil vegetables are tender.
and developed recipes for Yotam • 1 large onion, finely chopped Per serving 406kcals, 7.4g fat
Ottolenghi, before launching • 3 garlic cloves, finely sliced (1.3g saturated), 5.4g protein,
pop-up Bubala with restaurateur • 1 cinnamon stick 71.7g carbs (54g sugars), 5.1g
Marc Summers. Serving exciting • 2 tbsp sea salt flakes salt, 15.1g fibre
all-vegetarian sharing menus • 2 tsp baharat (or ½ tsp ground
inspired by food from across ginger, ½ tsp ground nutmeg
the Middle East, Bubala now has and ½ tsp ground cumin)
sites in London’s Spitalfields and • ½ tsp freshly ground black
Soho. Helen’s cooking draws on pepper
her travels, Ashkenazi Jewish • 2 sweet potatoes, peeled and
heritage and Sephardic Jewish cut into rough 1cm chunks
food traditions. Find out more at • 2 parsnips, peeled and cut
[Link] and @bubala_london into rough 1cm chunks
PHOTOGRAPH: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

• 4 carrots, peeled, trimmed

and cut into 1cm rounds
• 500g dried prunes, roughly
chopped
• 100g maple syrup NEXT MONTH
A menu with
• 500ml vegetable stock
Pakistani roots
• 200ml orange juice from Sumayya
• 150ml rice wine vinegar Usmani

44 [Link]
PHOTOGRAPHS TOM SHINGLER
 spring inspiration.

Bancone is at the forefront of the UK’s new wave of

Italian restaurants – casual, quick, affordable and brilliant.
Chef Ben Waugh shares four of his favourite dishes
for spring with subtle twists and clever little techniques
that – dare we say it – improve on the originals

Burrata with
croutons and nettle
and basil pesto
 Lamb, anchovy and the boil, then turn down to a
rosemary ragù with bare simmer and leave to cook
paccheri and reduce for 3 hours,
Serves 4-6 skimming off any scum and
Hands-on time 40 min fat that rise to the top.
Simmering time 3½ hours 3 Meanwhile, prepare the
breadcrumbs by melting the
You can make the sauce butter in a wide frying pan over
MAKE
AHEAD up to 2 days ahead and a medium heat. Add the
chill, then gently reheat. breadcrumbs and cook, stirring
Paccheri is a big tubular constantly, until they turn
KNOW-
HOW pasta from Campania. If golden brown and very crisp
you can’t find it, use (about 5 minutes). Season with
rigatoni or any pasta you like. salt, then set aside to cool.
Double the ragù amounts, 4 Bring a large pan of salted
SCALE
IT UP then portion and freeze water to the boil. Score a light
for up to 3 months. cross in the bottom of the
tomatoes, then put them in the
• 4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped water for 30 seconds. Lift them
ABOUT BEN WAUGH • 400g shallots, roughly chopped out, leave until cool enough to
After rising through the fine dining ranks • 20g rosemary, leaves picked handle, then peel away the skins.
working for Gordon Ramsay at The Savoy • 10 anchovy fillets in oil, drained Quarter the tomatoes, remove
Grill and Pétrus, Ben joined Bancone in 2021 • 100ml white balsamic vinegar and discard the seeds, then
as executive chef. Looking after the food • 2 tbsp vegetable oil finely dice the flesh into small
across two London sites (with more on the • 1kg lamb neck fillet squares. Set aside.
way), he applies his classical technique and • 250ml white wine 5 After 3 hours, the lamb should
Michelin-starred nous to the Italian pasta-led • 3 litres chicken stock be falling apart. Lift the meat
dishes the group has become famous for. • 4 ripe plum tomatoes out of the sauce and set aside
• 400g paccheri (see Know-how) – turn up the heat on the sauce
• 1 tsp extra-virgin olive oil and continue to cook for another
• 4 tbsp finely chopped parsley 10 minutes or until it’s reduced
and thick. Meanwhile, shred the
For the breadcrumbs lamb, then return the meat to
• 30g unsalted butter the pan. Season to taste (it
• 60g panko breadcrumbs will be quite salty from the
• ½ tsp salt anchovies, so go carefully), then
continue to cook over a very low
1 Put the chopped garlic, shallots, heat, stirring occasionally.
rosemary, anchovies and vinegar 6 Cook the paccheri in the
in a food processor and whizz boiling water for 8 minutes or
into a purée. until al dente (still with some
2 Put a large saucepan over bite). Drain, reserving a cup of
A proper ragù needs time to a medium heat and add the the pasta water, then add the
develop its flavours during a vegetable oil. Trim away any pasta to the ragù along with the
large pieces of fat on the lamb, diced tomatoes, olive oil and
long, slow simmer – and this then season all over with salt enough pasta water to help the
one is no different. Patience and add to the pan. Sear for sauce emulsify and coat the
5 minutes until browned all pasta as you stir it. Divide
will be seriously rewarded, over, then set aside. Pour in the among serving bowls, then
however, as the fall-apart wine, then use a wooden spoon sprinkle with the parsley and a
to scrape up any brown bits good amount of breadcrumbs.
lamb melds into the deeply stuck to the bottom of the pan. Per serving (for 6) 840kcals,
savoury sauce. Breadcrumbs Simmer until reduced by roughly 34.5g fat (14.8g saturated),
half, then return the lamb to the 56.2g protein, 64.9g carbs
on top add a delightful pan along with the shallot purée (10.4g sugars), 3.8g salt,
textural contrast and the chicken stock. Bring to 7.7g fibre →

48 [Link]
 spring inspiration.

The slow
cooking is the
key to this
ragù
 Spring vegetable gnocchi 1 Heat the oven to 170°C fan/ season with the balsamic vinegar
with beurre blanc gas 5. Bake the potatoes for and a pinch of salt. Keep warm.
Serves 4 45 minutes until soft. When 4 Bring a large pan of salted
Hands-on time 40 min cool enough to handle, peel and water to the boil. Using a
Oven time 45 min add the flesh to the bowl – you teaspoon, scoop up a little of
should have around 400g the dough and use your hands
For the gnocchi potato. While the potato is still to form it into pebbles. Use the
• 500g desiree potatoes hot, add the flour, egg, salt and tines of a fork or a gnocchi board
• 70g ‘00’ flour nutmeg, then gently mix together, to create ridges on both sides.
• 1 medium free-range egg yolk trying to work the mixture as Repeat until all the dough is
• ½ tbsp sea salt little as possible, until it forms used up. Boil the gnocchi for
• Pinch finely grated nutmeg a dough. Cover and set aside. 1½ minutes – they’re ready
• 100g peas, defrosted if frozen 2 To make the beurre blanc, when they float to the surface.
• Bunch asparagus, 2 sliced into put the wine vinegar, wine, 5 Meanwhile, add the peas and
ribbons, rest separated into peppercorns and shallot in a small asparagus to the beurre blanc
tips and finely sliced stalks saucepan and bring to a simmer. to warm through. To serve, drain
Cook for 6-8 minutes until the the gnocchi, then add to the
For the beurre blanc liquid has reduced to around beurre blanc, tossing to coat.
• 40g white wine vinegar 2 tsp, then strain into a small pan. Divide the gnocchi among
• 10g white wine 3 Add a splash of cream to the serving dishes, arranging the
• 2 black peppercorns vinegar reduction and put over peas and asparagus on top.
• 1 shallot, finely chopped a medium heat. Add the butter Per serving 473kcals, 33.7g fat
• Splash double cream a little at a time, stirring all the (20.4g saturated), 7.4g protein,
• 120g unsalted butter time to help the sauce emulsify. 31.9g carbs (3.6g sugars), 0.7g
• 1 tsp white balsamic vinegar Once the butter has been added, salt, 5.3g fibre

A simple yet brilliant starter, all the elements of which can be prepped ahead.
Crowdpleasing burrata gets the addition of croutons for crunch and a pesto
pepped up with nettles, which lend pepperiness to the classic flavours

lose their sting, but until then, • Tiny pinch chilli flakes
handle with care. Don’t fancy a • 25g basil, plus plenty of extra
forage? Replace the nettles with leaves to serve
the same amount of basil leaves • 70ml olive oil
for a classic pesto.
Keep leftover pesto in 1 Heat the oven to 150°C fan/
DON’T
WASTE the fridge for up to a gas 3½. Line a baking tray with
IT
week – pour a thin layer baking paper, then put the
of olive oil on top. ciabatta slices on it. Drizzle with
oil, add salt, then put another
• 8 very thin slices ciabatta, sheet of baking paper on top.
Burrata with croutons ideally stale Top with another baking tray
and nettle & basil pesto • Olive oil to fry and drizzle (this keeps the croutons flat)
Serves 6-8 • 6-8 burrata (depending on and bake for 8-10 minutes until
Hands-on time 15 min servings) golden and crisp. Set aside.
Oven time 8-10 min 2 For the pesto, bring a small
For the pesto pan of water to the boil and fill
Wear thick gloves and • 25g nettles a bowl with iced water. Wash
KNOW-
HOW pick young nettle leaves • 25g pine nuts the nettles, then cook (blanch)
away from paths and • 1 garlic clove, roughly chopped in the hot water for 1½ minutes.
roads. Once the plants are • 25g parmesan Drain, then instantly submerge
blanched in boiling water they • 1 tsp lemon juice in the iced water. Toast the →

50 [Link]
 spring inspiration.

In this beautifully seasonal dish, asparagus

and peas are just warmed through by a
silky butter sauce, then weaved and studded
in and around light, pillowy gnocchi
spring inspiration.

Bucatini cacio e pepe

Serves 2
Hands-on time 20 min

Vigorously toss and mix

BE A
BETTER the sauce and pasta
COOK
while drizzling in a little
pasta water until you see the
magic emulsification happen.
You can easily double
SCALE
IT UP the quantities of this
recipe to serve 4.

• 100g pecorino, coarsely

grated, plus extra, finely
grated, to serve
• 1 tsp ground black pepper
• 150g bucatini
• 4 tsp white wine vinegar
• 1 tsp white wine
• 1 black peppercorn
• 1 shallot, finely chopped
• Dash double cream
• 70g unsalted butter

1 Bring a large pan of salted

water to the boil. Put the
pecorino and ground pepper
in a food processor with 80ml
water and whizz into a paste.
2 Add the bucatini to the pan and
cook for 8-10 minutes or until al
Cacio e pepe relies on the method as much as the dente (with bite). Meanwhile, put
the vinegar, wine, peppercorn and
ingredients. This dish is given extra richness and shallot in a small pan and bring
tang, thanks to the addition of a little beurre blanc to a simmer. Cook until there’s
1 tsp liquid left, then strain into
a clean small saucepan (discard
the solids). Add the cream, put
pine nuts in a dry frying pan until the remaining basil leaves back over a medium heat and
golden brown (about 3 minutes). and fry for a minute until add the butter bit by bit, stirring
3 Put the pine nuts in a blender crisp, then drain on kitchen continuously, until you have a
with the garlic, parmesan, lemon paper. Put a burrata on each smooth sauce. Add the pecorino
juice and chilli flakes. Add a serving plate, slightly off paste and cook over a low heat
pinch of salt and pepper, then centre, then add 3 neat until it melts into the sauce.
whizz into a coarse paste. Drain dollops of pesto alongside. 3 Drain the bucatini, reserving
the nettles by squeezing them Snap the croutons into smaller a cup of pasta water, then toss
in your hands (they won’t sting) pieces and arrange between the pasta with the sauce, adding
to get rid of as much water as the dollops of pesto, followed pasta water if you need to help
possible, then add to the paste by the fried basil leaves. Finish it emulsify. Season with a pinch
with the basil and oil. Pulse a with a crack of black pepper of salt, toss with a little more
few times until you have a thick and a final drizzle of oil. grated pecorino and serve.
pesto. Taste and season. Per serving (for 8) 451kcals, Per serving 864kcals, 58.2g fat
4 To serve, heat a dash of olive 36.3g fat (17.2g saturated), (36.4g saturated), 27.7g protein,
oil in a frying pan over a high 14.5g protein, 16g carbs (2.2g 55.1g carbs (2.6g sugars), 0.9g
heat. Once shimmering hot, add sugars), 0.8g salt, 1g fibre salt, 3.7g fibre

52 [Link]
 Proudly part of Carnival Corporation & PLC

7 night Mediterranean fly-cruise

holiday with flights included from

£799
Based on Early Saver cruise A325A
pp†

Pay Monthly at no extra cost‡

Book by 5 June 2023

These are the

[Link]
VISIT A TRAVEL AGENT
moments that matter

†
Early Saver price of £799 per person is based on two adults sharing the lowest grade of Inside cabin available on Azura cruise A325A, inclusive of economy class flights from/to London
and transfers. Prices may vary for other departure airports, are subject to availability and may go up or down. All flights are subject to availability. For up-to-date prices and full T&Cs
applicable to Early Saver prices, please visit [Link]. ‡Pay Monthly option is available on direct bookings only. For full T&Cs please visit [Link]/why-choose-us/
pay-monthly.
 RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING POLLYANNA COUPLAND
PHOTOGRAPHS TOM SHINGLER
Juniper, fennel, chipotle,
pink peppercorns… not
the usual suspects
when you’re making
puddings. But Pollyanna
from the delicious. food team
shows that, just as salt can be used
to bring out the flavour of caramel,
these flavour-packed seeds, flakes
and berries give familiar sweet
treats exciting new dimensions
 crowdpleaser puds.

Pi
ne
ap
ple
an
dp
ink
pe
pp
er
co
rn
fr a
ng
ipa
ne
ta
rt

[Link] 55
 Fe
nn
el
se
ed

to
,

as
te
d
oa
ta
nd
or
an
ge
ch
e es
ec a
ke

56 [Link]
 crowdpleaser puds.

Ch
i p ot r ts
l e c h i l l i c h o c o l a te t a

Chipotle chilli brings

out the fruitiness of
dark chocolate as well
as adding a smoky
flavour, with regular
chilli flakes lending
warmth to cut through
the richness. Serve
these tartlets with a
dollop of soured cream
for a dessert with
a savoury edge, yet
perfectly balanced
Fruity, peppery, piney… Juniper adds a real
complexity to dishes. It’s often paired with roast
meat (venison and duck in particular) and is
the base note of every gin, but it’s unusual to
see the berry in baking. The flavour dimension
it adds to these shortbreads is exceptional.
The fruitiness of the chocolate is enhanced; the
sweetness of the caramel is tempered. Perfect!
 crowdpleaser puds.

Juniper millionaire’s simmering water (don’t let the

shortbread water touch the bowl) or melt
We’ve given the traditional
Makes about 16 (depending in 10-second bursts in the frangipane tart a modern
how you slice them) microwave, then pour it over the
Hands-on time 25 min, plus cooled caramel. Put in the fridge
makeover with tropical
cooling to set, then cut into pieces. pineapple and punchily
Oven time 35-45 min Per shortbread (for 16) 490kcals,
Specialist kit 28cm x 22cm 25.9g fat (16.2g saturated), 4.6g
floral pink peppercorns
baking dish (approximately) protein, 59g carbs (44.6g sugars),
0.1g salt, 1.3g fibre
BE A To get a nice clean cut, comes together as a dough,
BETTER run your knife under adding a splash of cold water
COOK
hot water and dry on if needed. Tip out onto a clean
kitchen paper before slicing the surface and bring together into
shortbread into squares. a ball, but don’t overwork. Flatten
the ball into a disc, then wrap
• 375g unsalted butter, chilled and rest in the fridge for an hour.
and diced 2 Grease the tart tin and roll out
• 275g caster sugar the pastry between 2 sheets
• 300g plain flour of baking paper. Transfer the
• 1 tbsp juniper berries, finely pastry to the tart case, leaving
crushed in a pestle and mortar at least a 2cm overhang all the
• 100g golden syrup Pineapple and pink way round, then prick all over
• 397g tin condensed milk peppercorn with a fork and put back in the
• 250g dark chocolate, chopped frangipane tart fridge to rest for 30 minutes.
Serves 6-8 3 Heat the oven to 160ºC fan/
1 Begin with the shortbread Hands-on time 30 min, plus gas 4 and line the pastry with a
base. Heat the oven to 160ºC resting sheet of foil, moulding it to the
fan/gas 4. Put 200g of the Oven time 55-60 min exact shape of the tin. Fill with
butter, 100g of the sugar, the Specialist kit 23cm fluted tart baking beans or uncooked rice
flour, crushed juniper berries tin with a removable base and bake for 15 minutes, then
and a pinch of salt in a food remove the beans/rice and foil
processor and pulse to an even, For the pastry and bake for a further 5 minutes.
sandy texture. Line the baking • 250g plain flour Once cooled slightly, use a small
dish with baking paper, then tip • ½ tsp fine salt serrated knife to carefully carve
in the mixture and pat down • 125g unsalted butter, chilled off the pastry overhang.
evenly. Bake for 20-25 minutes, and cubed, plus extra to 4 To make the filling, beat the
then set aside to cool completely. grease butter and sugar in a bowl until
2 Heat the remaining 175g butter • 1 medium free-range egg light and creamy, then stir in the
and 175g sugar with the golden egg, followed by the ground
syrup and condensed milk in For the filling almonds, half the lime zest and
a pan over a low-medium heat • 125g soft unsalted butter two thirds of the peppercorns.
for 15-20 minutes, stirring • 125g light brown soft sugar Pour the mixture into the tart
constantly until you have a • 1 medium free-range egg case and smooth out with a
smooth, thickened, dark amber • 125g ground almonds spatula until level. Arrange the
caramel. If the sugar starts • Finely grated zest 1 lime pineapple on top, sprinkle with
to caramelise into little dark • 1½ tsp pink peppercorns, the remaining peppercorns and
specks, you can pass the mixture crushed bake for 35-40 minutes. Leave
through a sieve (although it • 150g pineapple, cored, sliced to cool and set for 10 minutes
doesn’t matter too much). Pour and roughly chopped before sprinkling with the
the caramel over the cooled remaining lime zest and slicing.
shortbread base, then leave to 1 To make the pastry, put the Per serving (for 8) 535kcals,
cool once more. flour, salt and butter in a food 36.3g fat (17.5g saturated),
3 Once the caramel has cooled processor and whizz until you 9.3g protein, 42.2g carbs
and set, melt the chocolate in a have a sandy texture. Add the (17.9g sugars), 0.3g salt,
heatproof bowl set over a pan of egg and whizz again until it 1.6g fibre →

[Link] 59
 1 Heat the oven to 180°C fan/
gas 6. Put the oats and half the
fennel seeds on a tray and toast
in the oven for 10 minutes,
stirring halfway through to get
an even colour. Transfer to a
food processor with the biscuits,
butter and salt, then whizz to a
sandy texture. Line the cake tin
with baking paper, then pour in
the biscuit crumb mix and press
Fennel seed, toasted oat down firmly to create an even Chipotle chilli
and orange cheesecake base. Leave to set in the fridge. chocolate tarts
Serves 8 2 Beat the mascarpone, cream Makes 8
Hands-on time 35 min, plus at cheese and caster sugar until Hands-on time 30 min, plus
least 4 hours chilling light and fluffy, then stir in the 1 hour resting and infusing
Specialist kit 18cm springform marmalade, orange juice and Oven time 40 min
cake tin three quarters of the orange Specialist kit 8 x 8cm fluted
zest. Whip the cream to soft tartlet cases
The cheesecake will peaks (that flop over), then fold
MAKE
AHEADkeep covered in the into the cream cheese mixture The pastry can be made,
MAKE
fridge for up to 3 days. using a large metal spoon and AHEAD wrapped and chilled up
BE A
Toasting the oats pour over the chilled base, to 24 hours in advance.
BETTER unlocks their sweet spreading evenly. Put in the It also freezes well.
COOK
nuttiness, so don’t fridge to chill and set for at least
skip this step! We think it 4 hours or ideally overnight. • 175g plain flour, plus extra
makes the cheesecake taste 3 To make the candied fennel to dust
like marmalade on toast. seed garnish, put the soft brown • 25g cocoa powder
sugar and 1 tbsp water in a small • 25g icing sugar
• 150g rolled oats pan over a medium heat and • 125g unsalted butter, chilled
• 1½ tbsp fennel seeds cook for a minute or so until and chopped, plus extra to
• 150g digestive biscuits reduced a little and bubbling. grease
• 110g unsalted butter Pour in the remaining fennel • 1 large free-range egg yolk
• ¼ tsp sea salt flakes seeds and continue cooking for
• 250g mascarpone another minute or two, stirring For the filling
• 300g cream cheese continuously. Once the water • 230g double cream
• 100g caster sugar has all evaporated, the seeds • 100g whole milk
• 4 tbsp marmalade will begin to look sugar coated • ½ tbsp chipotle chilli flakes,
• Finely grated zest 2 oranges, and separate. Leave to cool, plus extra to sprinkle (optional)
plus 2 tbsp juice then stir in the remaining zest. • ¼ tsp chilli flakes
• 300g double cream Sprinkle over the chilled • 260g dark chocolate (70%
• 1 tbsp soft brown sugar cheesecake and serve. cocoa solids), roughly chopped
Per serving 755kcals, 59.3g fat • 1 large free-range egg
(36.1g saturated), 8g protein, • Soured cream to serve
46g carbs (26.4g sugars), 0.8g (optional)
salt, 2.5g fibre
1 To make the pastry, put the
flour, cocoa, icing sugar, butter
and a pinch of salt in a food
Fennel and orange is a classic combination in processor and whizz to a sandy
texture. Add the egg yolk and
savoury dishes, but it’s just as good in a sweet whizz again until it comes
setting – as this cheesecake proves. The candied together as a dough, pulsing in
1-2 tbsp cold water if needed.
fennel seeds on top are super simple and Tip out onto a clean surface
add an extra punch of aniseed flavour and bring together into a ball

60 [Link]
 crowdpleaser puds.

but don’t overwork. Flatten the

ball into a disc, then wrap and MORE WAYS TO
rest in the fridge for an hour
(see Make Ahead).
SPICE UP YOUR BAKING
Those neglected jars on the spice rack offer
2 To make the filling, bring the up buckets of inspiration when it comes
double cream and milk to the to baking – here are a few more pairings to
boil, then add both chilli flakes. elevate your puddings to star status
Remove from the heat, cover
and leave to infuse for 1 hour.
3 Grease the tart tins with
butter. Roll the pastry out on a
lightly floured work surface until
around 4mm thick, then cut out
8 circles (around 12cm in
diameter) and use them to line
each tin, leaving a little overhang
on each. Prick the bases with
a fork and put back in the fridge Cardamom + pastries
to rest for 30 minutes. Cardamom is one of the most aromatic spices around,
4 Once rested, heat the oven and if you’ve ever had a Swedish cardamom bun
to 160°C fan/gas 4. Put a square (kardemummabullar) you know how effective it is in
of foil into each lined case and a sweet setting. Use it in place of cinnamon to flavour
use your fingers to mould it into pastry swirls, or sprinkle ground seeds into the mix
the same shape as the pastry. when making caramel or fudge.
Fill with baking beans or
uncooked rice, then bake for
15 minutes. Remove the beans/
rice and foil and cook the pastry
for 5 more minutes. Remove from
the oven, leave to cool slightly,
then use a small serrated knife
to carefully carve off the
overhanging pastry. Turn down
the oven to 130ºC fan/gas 2.
5 Put the chocolate in a Bay leaves + custard
heatproof bowl. Bring the Often playing a background role in savoury dishes, bay
infused cream back to the boil, adds depth and a subtly sweet, herbal flavour. Infuse milk
then strain it through a fine or cream with a few dried leaves before making custard,
sieve over the chocolate, stirring then use that custard to make bread and butter pudding
until melted and smooth. Beat or rice pudding – it’s an absolute knockout.
in the egg. Put the tart cases
on a large baking tray and divide
the mixture evenly among them.
Bake for 15-20 minutes, then
leave to cool. Serve sprinkled
with plenty of sea salt flakes and
extra chipotle flakes (if you like).
Per tart 560kcals, 40.3g fat
(24.4g saturated), 7g protein,
41.1g carbs (23.7g sugars), Sumac + biscuits
0.1g salt, 2.5g fibre The lemony tang of sumac works brilliantly in buttery
biscuits, lending a complex, berry-like acidity that’s a
wonderful change from citrus. The spice’s deep purple
NEXT MONTH hue adds showstopper power too – try it in buttercreams
Mary Berry’s afternoon
tea – a feast fit and sponges to bring zing to the richness.
for a king
 Bring flavour to life
Available in paste, extract and pod form, Taylor & Colledge’s organic
vanilla range can help elevate your dishes this Easter – and beyond

W
hether you’re tucking into expertly crafted the finest extracts and enthusiast Lisa Faulkner has created
a chocolate egg or slathering pastes to help awaken the flavour in any these beautiful Portuguese-inspired
butter over a hot cross bun, number of dishes. It only ever handpicks custard tarts for you to try at home.
Easter is a wonderful time to enjoy its vanilla in small batches to ensure it’s Their rich creaminess is intensified
a sweet treat or two. But this year, why of the highest standard, plus the range by the lovely moreish flavour of the
not make things extra special and use is entirely organic, with no additives and Fairtrade-certified vanilla extract.
Taylor & Colledge’s quality vanilla range nothing artificial added. Perfect for sharing, the tarts will make
to whip up your own tempting creation? To help get you started on your Taylor a fabulous Easter gift – or keep them
For more than 120 years, the brand has & Colledge journey, TV chef and dessert to enjoy with family and friends.
 advertisement promotion.

Portuguese-inspired
custard tarts
Makes 12
Hands-on time 15-20 min, plus chilling
Oven time 30-35 min

• 160g ready-rolled puff pastry

• 20g strong white bread flour
• 150ml whole milk
• 110g caster sugar
• 1 tsp Taylor & Colledge Vanilla Bean Extract
• ½ lemon, skin peeled with a vegetable peeler
• 3 free-range egg yolks

1 Tightly roll the pastry into a sausage-shaped

spiral, then cut into 12 equal-sized pieces
and push your thumb into the middle of each
one to flatten into a disc about 9cm in diameter.
Press each disc into a shallow 12-hole tin,
then prick the bottoms with a fork. Leave
to chill in the fridge.
2 Meanwhile, make a start on the custard.
In a bowl, whisk the flour with 25ml milk until
smooth. In a small pan, combine the caster
sugar and 80ml water, then bring to the boil
and continue cooking until the temperature
reaches 100°C. If you don’t have a
thermometer, dip a spoon into the syrup and
lift it – when ready, a large drop should form,
then fall into a short, thin string. You should
avoid stirring the mixture, as this will cause
it to crystalise. Set aside to cool.
3 In a separate pan, bring the remaining milk
to the boil, then remove it from the heat. Add
the Taylor & Colledge Vanilla Bean Extract
and lemon peel, then cover with a lid and
leave to infuse for 1-2 minutes. Pour into the
flour and milk mixture and whisk together.
4 In a thin stream, pour the sugar syrup
into the milk mixture and stir with a spoon
or spatula until it has cooled slightly. Use
a balloon whisk to whisk in the egg yolks,
then strain into a jug. Cover and set aside
to cool completely.
5 Heat the oven to 200˚C fan/gas 7 and pour
the mixture into each of the chilled cases.
Bake for 18-20 minutes until golden and the
custard is just set. Serve immediately, or
leave to cool and store in an airtight container
Campaign ambassador
in the fridge and enjoy for up to two days. Lisa Faulkner

For more delectable Taylor & Colledge recipe

inspiration, head to [Link]/del-taylor-and-colledge
delicious. competition.

Win! A gourmet overnight

stay in the Cotswolds
M PETITIO
O WORTH
N
C

£1,000*

*APPROXIMATE PRIZE VALUE. COMPETITION CLOSES 30 APRIL 2023. TRAVEL, OTHER ACTIVITIES OR OTHER FOOD AND DRINK (APART FROM TASTING MENU, WINE FLIGHT AND BREAKFAST) NOT INCLUDED
T
his is everything you could
wish for from a night in the
Cotswolds: relaxed fine
dining in a cosy country inn
surrounded by beautiful countryside.
The Feathered Nest has great walks on
its doorstep, and the towns of Burford,
Stow-on-the-Wold and Bourton-on-the-
Water are less than a 15-minute drive
away. If you have time, Sezincote
House and Garden is a bit further, a
striking 200-year-old Mughal Indian- YOU COULD WIN…
style palace set in rolling hills. • An overnight stay for two
On your return, prepare to be spoiled in The Cottage in the grounds
with a six-course tasting menu for local Hooky beer or signature cocktail, of the hotel
two and matching wine flight in the such as a mezcal old fashioned. • A six-course tasting menu for
3 AA Rosette restaurant. The menu is After dinner, The Cottage (above) is dinner at The Feathered Nest
inventive, with dishes such as roasted where you’ll be resting your head. restaurant
Orkney scallops with braised pork The self-contained accommodation has • Matching wine flight
cheek and bramley apple; fillet of ruby flagstone flooring, a superking bed and • Breakfast for two the next
red Devon beef with black truffle; and oversized bath. After a peaceful night’s morning
Yorkshire rhubarb with vanilla custard sleep, visit the restaurant for a hearty
and ginger crumble. Before dinner, Cotswolds breakfast before heading For more information or to book,
head to the bar and treat yourself to a home relaxed and rejuvenated. visit [Link]

TO ENTER AND FOR FULL TS&CS, VISIT [Link]/PROMOTIONS

GET OUR REGULAR NEWSLETTERS FOR OFFERS AND MORE: [Link]/NEWSLETTER

64 [Link]
 If you’re craving some me-time in the kitchen this weekend, our
expert know-how will inspire you to brush up on old skills and
forage for new ones, all while being a little wild with flavour

66 70 74
Find out how to get Wild garlic’s brief Benjamina Ebuehi
different glazes on season is upon us. re-imagines a funfair
your pastry with food Master the art of favourite – earthy sage
editor Tom Shingler’s foraging and preserving meets soured cream
shining examples of this potent symbol for a fluffy glazed
egg wash excellence of spring doughnut like no other

[Link] 65
 Expert knowledge.

The
secret
NO GLAZE
art of
Not terrible, but there’s a hint of Moroccan leather cushion about it
egg
wash

“It turns pie lids a

burnished bronze,
EGG YOLK
seals pastry cases
A beautifully burnished result – you could fit out the dash of a Jag with it
and gives any bake
it touches an
eye-catching shine
– but what is egg
wash, why does it
work and how can
you use it to its full
advantage? Follow
my tips and take
your bakes to
a higher level”
TOM SHINGLER,
FOOD EDITOR

WHOLE EGG AND MILK

It’s easier to paint on and gives a good deep lustre
 be a better cook.

THE SCIENCE
When you start
delving into why
and how eggs do
all the wonderful
stuff they do in the
kitchen, things get
scientific pretty EGG WHITE
quick. And a bit If you want sheen but not too much colour, Mr White is your man
scary. As soon
as words like
‘albuminoid’ and
‘protein strands’
start getting
bandied about, I
tend to back away.
But when it comes
to egg wash, it’s
simple. The fats
and proteins in the
egg coat the pastry,
creating a water- WHOLE EGG
resistant (but not Avoids separation faff and it’s a good all-rounder

fully waterproof)
seal. Once it goes
in the oven, the
fats brown and
caramelise in the
heat, turning the
pastry or dough
golden, while the
proteins crisp up
and dry out,
adding shine. →
VEGAN (OAT MILK AND TURMERIC)
There’s a pleasing samosa vibe to this one

[Link] 67
The next level
Think you know egg wash? Here’s how to take
your pastry painting prowess up a notch

THE TECHNIQUE
1
Buy a silicone pastry brush
Beat egg, paint pastry, It trumps a bristle one in
bake – we all know how to many ways. It’s easier to
use egg wash. But there are clean, doesn’t risk shedding
a few things you can do to fibres all over your bake and
unlock its full potential... won’t absorb the egg, meaning
more stays on the pastry.

2
Make sure the egg is well
beaten to give a uniform
consistency and colour.

4
If it’s only half-mixed, you’ll Keep the egg wash even
have a trickier time getting it to This is key. You don’t want
evenly coat your bake, resulting pools of beaten egg
in a mottled, uneven look when collecting in nooks and crannies,
it comes out of the oven. as they can set solid and cover
your bake in little rubbery

3
Add a splash of water nuggets of baked egg – which
(or milk/cream) It will looks a bit grim and can give the
make your egg wash easier pastry an eggy taste. Similarly,
to paint with and increases the you don’t want any exposed
volume slightly. Aim for around pastry to be untouched by wash,
1 tbsp liquid per egg, although as, once baked, it’ll look and
this doesn’t have to be an exact taste dry and crumbly next to
measurement. anything that’s been painted.

MODIFYING YOUR TONE

As you can see on the previous page, not
all egg washes are equal – the amount of
white, yolk and the things you mix it with
can produce different finishes. Want a
shiny finish without too much browning?
Use egg white, which is where the majority
of the proteins lie. Conversely, using just
egg yolk will create a deeper golden hue,
thanks to the heavier ratio of fat. For an
all-rounder vegan alternative, try a little
oat milk mixed with a sprinkle of turmeric.
 be a better cook.

SEASON!
A pinch of salt in your egg wash
doesn’t just add a final hit of
seasoning to your bake – it also
helps to break down the proteins
in the egg, which makes it easier
to paint with. It’s best if you
leave the salted egg wash for
a few minutes before using,
to give the proteins time to
break down. I’m a big fan of
sweet-meets-savoury in my
desserts, so I tend to put a little
pinch of table salt in my egg
wash even for sweet pastries.

FLAVOUR!
Colour and flavour your bakes
with ground spices – turmeric
turns egg wash yellow; paprika
will give it an orange finish.
A pinch of spice that matches
whatever your bake is flavoured
with is always a good idea too.
PHOTOGRAPHS: TOM SHINGLER, STUART WEST, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

PRIME! IT’S NOT JUST FOR GLAZING...

It takes a little longer, but if Egg wash also makes a good glue for sealing pastry
you’re after a professional finish, edges down securely, and it can be used to help
multiple coats of egg wash – stick scattered sprinkles in place before your bake
just like painting a wall – are the goes in the oven. Egg-white-only wash tends to be
way to go. Paint your bake with stickier (thanks to the extra protein), so try painting
egg wash, chill for 10 minutes, it on breads and pastries (sweet and savoury)
paint again, chill for another before scattering over things like pearl sugar, oats,
10 minutes, then paint a third sprinkles, poppy seeds, nigella seeds or sesame
time. This builds up a thicker seeds. A point to note: don’t paint it on the edges
(yet even) layer of egg wash that of puff pastry, as it can glue them shut and prevent
sturdily binds to the pastry, them from expanding into flaky layers.
producing world-class results.

[Link] 69
 Expert knowledge.

Your wild garlic

weekender
WORDS AND RECIPE PHOTOGRAPHS TOM SHINGLER
 be a better cook.

It’s a highlight of the wild food calendar and

one of the easiest things to forage – but in
a few weeks, says Tom Shingler, wild garlic
will disappear for another year. Put a weekend
aside to collect and preserve this wonderful
plant, ensuring a well stocked, gorgeously
garlicky larder for months to come

W
ild garlic (or ramsons) – just like asparagus, jersey royals and
radishes – lets us know spring is well and truly here. Most of
the season’s abundant produce can be picked up in the shops,
but wild garlic requires a romp through the countryside or your local
park. Fortunately, once you’re there, it’s easy (and safe) to source,
identify and pick, and it’s so satisfying to cook and eat something
you’ve gone out to forage for yourself.
I use fresh wild garlic with abandon during its season, but it’s usually
died down by mid-May, making it a short-lived love affair, so I put
a weekend aside each year to fill a few carrier bags with the stuff – then
wash, blanch, dry and preserve my haul to use in the months to come.
Here’s how I do it...

SATURDAY: A-FORAGING look down and realise it’s growing

WE WILL GO all around me. Never pick wild
Don your best walking boots, garlic near paths or roads, though,
pack a few bags-for-life (or a as you run the risk of dog wee and/
wicker basket, if you want to get or car fumes (neither of which
a few pics for Instagram while anyone wants in their dinner).
you’re at it) and head to your
nearest wood or forest. It’s time What am I looking for?
to get foraging! Wild garlic plants are one of the
easiest things to forage because
When’s the best time? they’re so easily identifiable.
Wild garlic leaves can start to You’re looking for clusters of fat,
sprout as early as late February, sword-shaped dark green leaves
depending on where in the UK and (depending on the time of
you are and what the weather’s year) flowers sporting dainty
been like. But the peak time tends white petals. If you’re unsure,
to be early April, when you can crush a leaf between your hands
find not only leaves but wild garlic and give it a whiff – believe me,
flowers – and lots of them, too. you’ll know if it’s wild garlic or there). Anything below the ground
not. This sniff test is important, – like the root and bulb – needs to
Where do I go? as there are similar-looking be left intact, otherwise you’re
You’ll rarely have to hunt around plants (lily of the valley) that are removing the entire plant and it
in the undergrowth for a few poisonous. Those leaves don’t won’t grow back next year. Simply
sparse leaves when looking for smell like garlic, however, so the snip or pick the leaves, buds and/or
wild garlic – when you’re in the real stuff is easy to identify. flowers, avoiding anything brown
right spot it tends to blanket the or damaged. You should never
ground, filling the area with its What exactly can I take? strip an area completely, but if
ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

Look out for scent. It crops up in most shady Legally you’re allowed to harvest you’re planning on preserving
wild garlic woodland, especially if there’s a any part of the wild garlic plant them, get a few carrier bags’
in shady
body of water or river nearby; I’ve above ground (provided you’re on worth from different patches – it
wooded areas,
especially been on many a dog walk, only to public land; otherwise you need might look like a lot, but the leaves
near water catch a whiff of garlic in the air, the landowner’s permission to be wilt like spinach when cooked. →

[Link] 71
 Wild garlic butter
SUNDAY: PRESERVING THE BOUNTY Makes around 250g
You’ve had a wonderful Saturday: a brisk Hands-on time 10 min,
woodland walk in early spring, plus you’ve gathered plus setting
a bounty of hyper-seasonal flavour to play around
with in the kitchen. When you get home, it’s a good Once you’ve made the butter, you
idea to separate your spoils into leaves and flowers/ can either portion it into cubes or
buds, picking through them and discarding roll it into a log and tightly wrap.
anything that doesn’t look at its best. Freeze, then cut off what you need
When it comes to preserving, most recipes focus – it’ll last for 6 months and create
on the leaves, as they’re where the bulk of garlicky the best garlic bread you’ve ever
flavour can be found. The flowers are perfect for had. It’s great for basting steaks
garnishing dishes but they’re difficult to preserve, and fish too.
so use them up in the next couple of days. If you
have quite a few flower buds in the mix, pickling Finely chop blanched dried
them into ‘capers’ is the way to go. leaves (see left) and stir into
softened butter for a mild flavour
First, blanch and dry the leaves (as in the picture) or whizz with
There are three good reasons to do this before the butter to create a smooth,
you get preserving: pale green, more pungent butter.
• It sterilises the leaves without cooking them, About 50g fresh wild garlic
ensuring they won’t spoil too quickly leaves is enough for 250g
• It preserves the colour and flavour of the leaves butter, but you can add more
• It makes it easier to remove the leaves’ water or less, depending on how
content, which is especially important if you’re flavourful you want it.
combining them with fats Per tsp 38kcals, 4.1g fat (2.6g
If you’re planning to make the oil and/or butter saturated), 0.1g protein, trace
(right), weigh your fresh leaves. Bring a large pan of carbs (trace sugars), trace salt,
water to the boil and give the leaves a good wash: trace fibre
submerge them in the boiling water for 15 seconds,
then drain and immediately rinse under cold water Wild garlic oil
to halt the cooking. Give the leaves a good squeeze Makes around 150ml
in your hands, then wring out in a tea towel – you Hands-on time 10 min,
want them to be as dry as possible. The wilted plus straining
leaves are now ready to preserve.
The oil is ready to use right away
The easiest preservation method: freezing and will keep in the fridge for a
It’s a cinch to freeze the blanched leaves in little few weeks. To preserve it even
blocks (like the frozen spinach you can get at the longer, freeze it in ice cube trays,
supermarket). Whizz or finely chop blanched, then transfer to a bag – the cubes
cooled and dried leaves, then pack tightly into ice will keep for up to 6 months. You
cube trays. Once frozen, transfer to a freezer bag can use wild garlic oil to dress
and use as needed – you can add them to dishes salads and veg, or to make
directly from frozen or use in place of basil to make a fantastic pale green mayo.
pesto. Frozen leaves will last up to 4 months before
they start to lose their colour and taste. Weigh your wild garlic leaves
before washing and blanching
(see above left) and note the
weight. Roughly chop and add to
DON’T FANCY FORAGING? a blender with double the weight
You can buy wild garlic fresh from farmers’ markets – at a of vegetable oil (so if you have
premium – but you can also create your own patch. A few 100g fresh wild garlic leaves,
years ago I bought bulbs online and planted them in a shady you’d add 200g oil).
NEXT MONTH
spot in my garden. Twelve months later I had a crop of Whizz the leaves and oil on
How to make
light work of ‘domesticated’ wild garlic. Just make sure it’s in a closed-off a slow speed, then gradually
flaky pastry border or a large container as it’s invasive and can take over. increase it to maximum. Leave

72 [Link]
 be a better cook.

the processor running for a few

minutes – the friction of the
blades will heat the oil, which
is how you extract the flavour
and colour of the leaves into it.
Put a fine sieve over a very
clean jug, jar or bowl, then line
with kitchen paper (or muslin).
Pour in the mix, then leave the
oil to drip through. This could
Wild garlic
take a few hours, so put it in butter
the fridge. When it’s strained,
discard the pulp.
Per tbsp 124kcals, 13.8g fat
(1.1g saturated), no protein,
no carbs (no sugars), no
salt, no fibre

Wild garlic capers

Makes enough to fill a 250ml jar
Hands-on time 10 min, plus
cooling and pickling

The buds are the part of the wild

garlic plant I most covet, because
they lead to wild garlic ‘capers’ –
little bombs of tangy garlicky
flavour that can transform salads
and sauces. Use them in anything
that calls for regular capers.

Put equal parts caster sugar,

cider vinegar/white wine
vinegar and water in a small
saucepan with a big pinch of
salt. (100g each should be
enough for a handful of wild
Wild garlic oil
garlic buds.) Heat, stirring, until
the salt and sugar dissolve, then
cool. Meanwhile, wash and dry
your buds, discarding any that
are half-opened or look damaged.
Put them in a sterilised jar, then
pour over the cooled pickling
liquid, ensuring all the buds are
submerged. You could also add
peppercorns, fennel seeds or
other whole spices.
Seal and keep in the fridge for
at least 2 days before eating.
Once opened, keep the jar
covered in the fridge and eat
I make a big batch of wild garlic oil when
within 6 months. the season comes around – it’s by far my
Per 1 tsp 10kcals, no fat, 0.2g
protein, 2.3g carbs (2g sugars),
favourite way to preserve it and makes me
trace salt, 0.1g fibre feel all Michelin-starred in the kitchen
be a better cook.

Technical make.

Soured cream
sage doughnuts
Acclaimed food writer
Benjamina Ebuehi loves to
experiment with flavour, and
she’s given these traditional
iced delights a not-so-
traditional herbal note.
They’re impossible to resist
– especially the little ones

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING

BENJAMINA EBUEHI
PHOTOGRAPHS
LAURA EDWARDS
STYLING ANNA WILKINS
Supposedly
the doughnut’s
hole was made
to stop it being
undercooked in
the middle

[Link] 75
be a better cook.

“These are based on the old-fashioned soured cream

doughnuts I’d buy multiple times a week as an
exchange student in Canada. The dense, cakey A BIT ABOUT
BENJAMINA
interior and signature scraggly crust are completely After appearing on
opposite to a more traditional yeasted doughnut, but The Great British Bake Off
as a quarter finalist in 2016,
these draw me in again and again. I’ve flavoured them Londoner Benjamina now
with sage, one of my favourite herbs, which doesn’t get works as a food stylist and
food writer developing
much use outside of Christmas but works so well in modern, exciting recipes
sweet recipes, bringing an aromatic, earthy tone” with pared-back styling.
Find her blog at
BENJAMINA EBUEHI [Link]

Soured cream sage • 3 medium free-range egg yolks doughnut cutter in flour and cut
doughnuts • 20g unsalted butter, softened out as many doughnuts as you
Makes 8-10, plus the doughnut • 150g soured cream can (keeping the little centres,
holes • 1 litre vegetable oil to deep-fry known as doughnut holes), then
Hands-on time 40 min, plus re-roll and cut again. Put the
chilling and setting For the glaze doughnuts and doughnut holes
Specialist kit Doughnut cutter • 250g icing sugar on a baking sheet in the fridge.
(or 1 large and 1 small round • 50ml whole milk, plus extra if 5 Pour 5cm oil into a heavy-
cutter); digital thermometer needed based saucepan, then heat to
• 1 tsp vanilla extract 170°C. Fry 2-3 doughnuts at
BE A
Cornflour absorbs a time for about 2 minutes on
BETTER
moisture, helping create 1 Mix the flour, cornflour, baking each side, keeping an eye on the
COOK
a crisper crust and a powder and salt together in temperature and adjusting the
fluffy texture within. Next time a small bowl and set aside. heat when necessary. The
you make your favourite bread 2 Put the sugar and sage in a doughnut holes will take about
or cookie dough, replace 1 tbsp large bowl and use your fingertips half the time to cook. Put the
plain flour with cornflour to give to rub the sage into the sugar cooked doughnuts on a plate
it a denser, fluffier crumb. until fragrant. Add the yolks lined with kitchen paper and let
Make sure your doughnut or and butter and whisk until them cool for a few minutes.
ring cutters are sharp – if the pale and smooth. Pour in the 6 To make the glaze, whisk all
cut isn’t clean it can create a soured cream and beat for the ingredients in a bowl until
craggy, cracked doughnut. another minute to combine. smooth. The glaze should be
This recipe is a great 3 Add the flour mixture in quite runny, so add a little more
EASY
SWAPS base for diverse flavours 3 batches, stirring gently after milk if it’s too thick. Arrange a
– if you don’t like sage try each addition so it comes wire rack with a tray underneath,
Recipe taken a different herb or leave it out. together into a dough. Once all dip the doughnut holes and the
from A Good the flour has been added, tip top of each doughnut quickly
Day to Bake • 300g plain flour, plus extra out the dough – it’ll be quite in the glaze, then put them on
by Benjamina to dust soft and a little sticky – wrap the rack. Let the glaze set for
Ebuehi • 1 tbsp cornflour well and chill for 1-2 hours (or 15 minutes before serving.
(Quadrille • 2 tsp baking powder overnight) until it has firmed up. Per doughnut (for 10) 372kcals,
£22) and • ½ tsp salt 4 Once chilled, generously dust 11.3g fat (3.9g saturated), 4.5g
tested by • 120g caster sugar the worktop with flour. Roll out protein, 62.5g carbs (37.7g
delicious. • 16 sage leaves, finely chopped the dough to 1cm thick. Dip a sugars), 0.5g salt, 1.2g fibre

76 [Link]
 be a sustainable cook.

DON’T WATERCRESS
STALKS

BIN IT! They’re often too coarse

and stringy for salads, but
once removed the stalks
can be used like any soft
herb stems. Add whole to
Tops & tails sauces, soups or stocks
for verdant, peppery
flavour, or put a bunch in
the cavity of a fish or
Join the delicious. chicken. Or chop finely,
mission to avoid then add to a frying pan
DON’T FEAR
waste in the kitchen of chopped onions once
THE SPEAR softened (the start of
and use every Recipes usually tell you to many dishes); stir into
last bit of your snap the woody end off cooked rice or pasta; or
spring veg. Here are asparagus before cooking. include in a salsa verde.
The stem is more fibrous
Emily Gussin’s tips at the base but it still has
lots of flavour. Use it to
make the gremolata from
RADISH the lemony chicken broth
LEAVES on p24. Or finely chop, USE THE GREEN PARTS TOO!
then quick-pickle for 15
Radishes often come
minutes in equal parts
The green ends of spring
in bunches with the
leaves attached, and vinegar and water with onions are just as good to eat
they’re edible. Snip at the a good pinch of salt and as the white parts. The
base of the stem to remove sugar. Use in the same
way as capers, scattered
only bit you need to
– leaf and root will keep fresher
separated – then chill in your in a salad or over fish, trim and discard
or stir into a dressing
fridge’s veg box, ideally keeping the is the root.
leaves in an airtight container. They or gribiche-style sauce.
wilt quickly so use within a day or Alternatively you can add
two: raw in a salad, sautéed as with the ends to a stock –
spinach or whizzed into a pesto. great for a full flavoured
The flavour is mild and peppery. asparagus risotto.
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES, DUNCAN SPIRES

GET CREATIVE WITH CABBAGE STEMS

Spring cabbage and kale have softer stems than their winter cousins
as well as softer leaves, but the stems are still often wasted. The
more delicate chard stems and thinner kale stems can be chopped
and added to the pan 1-2 minutes before the leaves to cook through.
Try shredding the whole cabbage or cavolo nero leaves widthways
so there’s just a small portion of the stem within each strip – they
should wilt and soften quite easily when cooked. If you decide the
stems are too tough, add them to a green juice made in a blender,
or cut into batons and roast to make a side dish or garnish.

[Link] 77
 The energy-saving
recipe
This satisfying dal not only tastes wonderful
but will save on your energy bill too, thanks to
a nifty technique known as passive cooking
RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING EMILY GUSSIN PHOTOGRAPH TOM SHINGLER

Passive red lentil dal • 1 tsp cumin seeds

Serves 4 as a main, 6 as a side • 1 green chilli, finely sliced
Hands-on time 15 min • 2 garlic cloves, finely sliced
Simmering time 10 min, plus standing • Coriander leaves to serve

This dal, enriched with coconut and 1 Heat a splash of oil in a large saucepan
tomatoes, is thick and immensely (with a lid) over a medium heat. Add
satisfying – and a great introduction the onion with a pinch of salt and
to energy-saving passive cooking. cook for 5 minutes until starting
to soften. Add the garlic, ginger and
Passive cooking is a method that
BE A
chilli, then cook for a further minute.
BETTER
makes the most of residual heat, 2 Stir in the spices and salt, cook for
COOK
cooking dishes with an initial blast another minute, then add the lentils,
of heat, then finishing them off as the tomatoes, coconut milk and 250ml
food slowly cools to eating temperature. water. Bring to the boil, cover with
the lid and cook for 10 minutes, then
• Vegetable oil to fry (without lifting the lid) remove from
• 1 onion, finely chopped the heat and leave to finish cooking
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped in the residual heat for 10 minutes.
• 20g ginger, grated 3 Once the dal is cooked, prepare the
• 1 green chilli, finely sliced tarka. Heat the oil in a small saucepan
• ¼ tsp ground turmeric until shimmering hot, then add the
• 1 tsp ground cumin cumin seeds, chilli and garlic. Sizzle
• 1 tsp ground coriander for 1-2 minutes until the garlic
• 2 tsp garam masala is just beginning to turn pale golden,
• ½ tsp fine sea salt then divide the dal among 4 serving
• 300g dried red lentils bowls and pour the tarka over it.
• 400g tin chopped tomatoes Finish with coriander leaves.
• 400g tin full-fat coconut milk Per serving (for 6) 384kcals, 19.8g fat
(10.4g saturated), 14.4g protein,
NEXT MONTH
Save energy by For the tarka 34.5g carbs (6.4g sugars), 0.4g salt,
batch cooking • 3 tbsp vegetable oil 4.9g fibre

78 [Link]
be a sustainable cook.
 HAS
VEGANISM
LOST ITS
WAY?
Traditionally, the big pulls of veganism were
animal welfare, green creds and health
benefits. Then came a craze for overly
processed plant-based products to undermine
these ideals. Thankfully, says food writer
Clare Finney, a new multicultural approach is
re-inventing vegan eating. Read all about it –
then enjoy our inspiring ‘new vegan’ recipes
 be a sustainable cook.

83% of carbon but also on people

emissions from looking to reduce their
European diets meat consumption,”
come from meat, says Waitrose product
dairy and eggs developer Simona
Cohen-Vida-Welsh.
Spiced seitan koftas and no-
chicken samosas may be more
urely, I said to my newly vegan cousin one Christmas, eating processed and packaged than,
a free-range turkey from a farm down the road is better say, potatoes, but “they can act
for the planet than that? The ‘that’ I referred to was his as stepping stones to a more
tofurkey: a flavour-enhanced, acidity-regulated softball plant-based diet because they
with a ludicrous product-to-packaging ratio, an impenetrable have a familiar texture and taste”.
list of synthetic ingredients and an appearance more foul Aside from all the green
than fowl. In the end, the proof of the pudding was in his not eating arguments for vegan food,
it; the hapless tofurkey has never resurfaced. Nevertheless, it’s stuck however processed, Matt Turner
with me as an example of some of the misguided thinking that at The Vegan Society asks us to
occasionally mars vegan meals. remember that vegans are allowed
Full disclosure: I am not vegan. I’m a food journalist who is intrigued to have fun too. “While veganism
to discover whether veganism stands up to scrutiny through a is generally associated with health
sustainability lens. A vegan diet isn’t exempt from environmental and wellbeing, we’re occasionally
considerations. Whether it’s the industrial almond farms poisoning bees allowed junk food.”
and depleting the water supplies of North America, or the soya and palm
farms fuelling deforestation on a global level, many foods that vegans THE HEALTH ARGUMENT How
consider to be staples are problematic. unhealthy is ‘bad’ vegan food?
Then there’s the industrial chemical processing involved in transforming For vegan comedian Stevie
things like mycoprotein (derived from mushrooms), pea protein and soya Martin, the availability of vegan
into ‘bacon’ and ‘sausages’. Mycoproteins’ surprising environmental meals has been transformational
impacts are thanks to the energy involved in fertilising the sugar that – but it has brought risks. “Going
feeds the fungi and in processing its protein. Perhaps the most explicit out for dinner doesn’t make me
example of this comes from Quorn, one of the leading mycoprotein feel stupid any more – though
manufacturers. Though producing Quorn takes just 0.8kg of CO2 per kg, I do have to watch what I eat. I
producing its vegan chicken-free slices releases 3.1kg of CO2 per kg. could gorge on vegan junk food
all day if I wanted to,” she tells
THE GREEN ARGUMENT Does ‘bad’ vegan beat ‘good’ meat? me. Yet, as Turner points out,
There are strong vegan counter arguments to this. The consequences of the importance of not relying
soya cultivation have more to do with the quantity of soya fed to livestock on processed foods “could be said
than the amount made into tofu. Soy consumed directly by people is of any diet, not just veganism”.
far more land and carbon efficient than soy consumed indirectly via Yes and no, says Rebecca
beefburgers. And even ‘bad’, meat-mimicking vegan meals are better for McManamon, consultant dietitian
the planet – in terms of carbon emissions – than actual meat-based ones. and spokesperson for the British
According to the largest meta-analysis of global food systems to date, Dietetic Association. Yes, all
83% of carbon emissions from European diets come from meat, dairy highly processed food is poor
and eggs. Plant-based foods, including the accursed tofurkey, emit fewer nutritionally – but processed
greenhouse gases regardless of how they are produced, packaged or vegan food can be worse still.
transported. I could tell you about organic, mixed-land-use farming “The more processed a meal,
systems until the grass-fed cows come home, but when it comes to the more likely it is to have added
emissions, as sure as eggs is eggs, they’re responsible for more CO2 than salt, saturated fat and sugars,”
silken tofu. she explains. “And foods that are
Another thing in favour of mock meats: even if they’re not trying to imitate meat and dairy
as sustainable as veg and pulses, if they lure non-vegan will be more
customers away from excessive meat and dairy Even if they’re not so sustainable, if processed.”
consumption for one or two days a week, that’s a positive. mock meats lure non-vegans away For example,
“The success we’ve had with our vegan meals has been from meat and dairy for one or two one of the
based not just on vegans and vegetarians buying them, days a week, that’s a positive fats most →

[Link] 81
be a sustainable cook.

KEY FLAVOUR-BOOSTERS
FOR VEGAN COOKING

commonly used to make vegan “It’s not just about protein...

cheese is coconut oil, which is There are other nutrients
Nutritional yeast ‘Nooch’ flakes higher in saturated fat than offered by meat, fish and
impart a cheesy, savoury taste cheese. Then there’s the fact that dairy that aren’t present in
swapping cheese, milk, meat and vegan equivalents, or are
fish for vegan equivalents is not, there in smaller quantities”
nutritionally, a like for like. “If I
have hazelnut milk instead of cow’s milk in coffee, I’m not getting the
same nutrients unless it’s fortified – and not all alternative milks are.”
The same goes for Quorn and jackfruit. “People tend to think solely
about protein, but it’s not just that,” she continues. “There are other
Miso Added to soups, sauces and nutrients offered by meat, fish and dairy that aren’t present in those
even sweets for an umami vibe alternative foods, or are there in smaller quantities.”

A BETTER WAY OF VEGAN EATING

Again, how much this matters to you will depend on your reasons for
veganism. If they are primarily ethical, converting meat eaters to
your cause may take priority over health concerns. Yet a healthy planet
and healthy people are not mutually exclusive, and increasingly food
Seaweed Packed with nutrients, it producers and writers are adopting a more holistic and globally inspired
adds salty-savoury flavour approach to veganism.
One such producer is frozen meal delivery service ByRuby, which
“looks at areas like India or southeast Asia, where people eat a lot of
vegan and vegetarian food”. Co-founder Milly Bagot is not averse to
fake meats per se, but her approach to veganism is largely shaped by
her aversion to consumer culture. “If they encourage meat eaters to
eat less of it, that’s good, but equally there are lots of ways you can cook
vegan while avoiding those products. Seaweed and nutritional yeast
Avocado oil Rich in vitamin E with a give a parmesan saltiness, for example.”
high smoke point, so good for cooking Similarly Waitrose’s latest vegan range scoured the world for
seasonings and techniques that could elevate natural plant-based
dishes. “We use pickling, we use fermenting, we use marinades and
sous vides,” says Cohen-Vida-Welsh. The supermarket’s vegan barbecue
mushrooms with sticky rice is a prime example, with a marinade
inspired by Korean flavours used to bring the mushrooms’ innate
umami-ness to the forefront. It’s delightfully savoury and, when it comes
to sustainability, Cohen-Vida-Welsh tells me Waitrose “applies the same
Banana Flower Its flaky texture principles to vegan food as to all our other ranges”.
makes it a good substitute for fish Food producers and It’s tempting to liken vegan food in the west
writers are adopting to a cult musician who, having hit the big time,
a more holistic and struggles to cope with his newfound celebrity.
globally inspired His intentions, once so pure, start to ring hollow
approach to veganism as he’s accused of churning out shallow
crowdpleasing songs and being ‘in it for the
money’. In Waitrose’s Korean mushrooms, the creations of ByRuby and
Emily Gussin’s recipes (overleaf), we see something more sensitive: a
Marmite Instantly adds depth of way of eating that’s sustainable and nutritious, that defines veganism
flavour to stews and sauces not by the absence of meat but by the presence of interesting natural
ingredients that just happen to be plant-based.

82 [Link]
 be a sustainable cook.

Creamy cashew
and artichoke pasta

TURN THE PAGE FOR INSPIRING RECIPES... WHETHER YOU’RE VEGAN – OR VEGAN-CURIOUS
 Whizzed cashews provide the perfect base for creamy, rich, indulgent vegan
sauces, as this super-quick pasta demonstrates. Lightened with lemon and
wine, it’s lifted by pepper and chilli, with a savoury punch from nutritional yeast

• 120ml dry white wine (vegan pasta according to the packet

if you need it to be) instructions. Reserve a mug of
• 350g fusilli or similar pasta the cooking water before draining.
shape 3 Put the soaked cashews
• Juice 1 lemon (including their soaking water) in
• 2 tbsp nutritional yeast flakes a jug blender with the lemon juice
• 400g tin artichoke hearts in and yeast flakes, then whizz until
water, drained and quartered smooth. Stir the sauce into the
shallot mix, then add the drained
1 Put the cashews in a heatproof pasta with a good glug of the
Creamy cashew and bowl and pour over the just- reserved cooking water to help
artichoke pasta boiled water. Leave to soak for combine it into a smooth sauce.
Serves 4 15 minutes. Meanwhile, heat 4 Stir in the artichokes until
Hands-on time 25 min the oil in a large frying pan over warmed through. Divide among
a medium heat. Add the garlic bowls and season with a grinding
• 200g unsalted cashew nuts, and chilli flakes, then cook for of black pepper and some extra
roughly chopped 1 minute until beginning to chilli flakes.
• 200ml just-boiled water soften. Stir in the shallot and Per serving 719kcals, 28.6g fat
• 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil cook for about 6 minutes until (5.4g saturated), 26.5g protein,
• 2 garlic cloves, finely sliced turning golden. Add the wine 78.5g carbs (8.8g sugars),
• ½ tsp chilli flakes, plus and bubble until reduced by half. 0.3g salt, 10g fibre
extra to serve 2 Bring a large pan of salted
• 1 banana shallot, finely sliced water to the boil and cook the

Vegan cookbooks: our magnificent seven

RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: EMILY GUSSIN. PHOTOGRAPHS: TOM SHINGLER, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

Zaika by East by Vegan(ish) by Afro-vegan by Nistisima One Pot, Pan, Vegan

Romy Gill Meera Sodha Jack Monroe Bryant Terry by Georgina Planet by Japaneasy by
Vegan recipes Meera draws on Simplicity and A vegan Hayden Anna Jones Tim Anderson
celebrating the a wide range of affordability are cookbook Mediterranean Simple, fast and Japanese
zaika or ‘flavours’ Asian cuisines in what it’s all inspired by the vegan recipes planet-friendly recipes that are
of Indian cooking this book, which about for Jack cultures and from an one-pot dishes, either inherently
from the beloved is partly inspired Monroe – aka the flavours of award-winning many of them vegan or have
Ready Steady by her hugely Tin Can Cook – in West Africa food writer vegan, from been vegan-ised
Cook chef popular column these inventive the queen of thanks to simple
in The Guardian recipes for vegan vegetarian substitutions
and vegan- cooking
curious cooks

84 [Link]
 be a sustainable cook.

Peppercorn oyster mushrooms, then sit another Transfer the mushrooms to a

mushrooms with (clean) heavy pan on top and plate and cover to keep warm.
cannellini mash press down – the mushrooms 5 Return the pan to a medium-
Serves 2 should sizzle ferociously (it will high heat and add the wine to
Hands-on time 30 min, plus be quite loud!). Keep pressing for deglaze it. Once the wine has
soaking about 10 seconds, then remove reduced by two thirds, add the
the top pan and allow the porcini mushrooms and their
Step aside, steak – these mushrooms to cook for a few soaking liquid to the pan. Bubble
meaty mushrooms provide minutes, without stirring, until the until thickened, then stir in the
all the umami, depth and liquid they release evaporates. oat fraîche and season with salt.
complex savouriness of red 4 Season the oyster mushrooms 6 Divide the cannellini mash
meat, helped along with a with salt and half the crushed between plates, then top with
peppercorn crust. Served peppercorns. Flip the mushrooms, the oyster mushrooms and
with a cannellini mash and then cover with the pan and wilted spinach/greens. Spoon
a quick creamy pan sauce, it press again. Leave the pan sitting over the porcini sauce.
follows the meat-and-two-veg on the mushrooms for a few Per serving 344kcals, 12g fat
formula – without the meat. minutes while they cook, then (1g saturated), 15.8g protein,
remove and season again with 27g carbs (1.4g sugars), 0.2g
• 10g dried porcini mushrooms the remaining peppercorns. salt, 14.5g fibre →
• 150ml just-boiled water
• 600g jar cannellini beans (or
similar white beans)
• 1 garlic clove, crushed
• 2 tbsp rapeseed oil
• 150g fresh oyster mushrooms,
halved lengthways if large
• ½ tbsp dried green peppercorns
(from Waitrose, Ocado and
online suppliers), crushed
• 100ml dry white wine (check
it’s vegan)
• 4 tbsp oat fraiche (we used
Oatly)
• Wilted spinach or seasonal
greens to serve

1 Put the porcini in a small bowl

and cover with the just-boiled
water, then set aside to soak.
They only need about 15 minutes
but if you have time for a longer
soak (up to 24 hours), the flavour
will be even deeper.
2 Drain half the liquid from the
cannellini beans, then put the
remaining liquid and beans in
a saucepan with the garlic. Put
over a medium heat to warm
through, stirring regularly. Once
hot, use a stick blender to whizz
until very smooth. Season well,
then cover and keep warm.
3 Put a heavy-based frying pan
over a high heat. Once it’s
smoking hot, add the oil, swirling
to coat the base. Add the oyster
be a sustainable cook.

Vegan carrot cake • 3 tbsp flaxseed meal zest, all the grated carrots and
Serves 6-8 • 180ml sunflower oil, plus extra all the chopped walnuts.
Hands-on time 20 min for greasing 3 Mix the oil and brown sugar into
Oven time 1 hour • 200g self-raising flour the thickened flaxseed mixture,
Specialist kit 900g loaf tin • ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda then fold this into the flour
• ½ tsp fine sea salt mixture. Scrape the batter into
Studded with crunchy • 1 tsp ground cinnamon the lined tin. Bake in the centre
walnuts and slathered • ½ tsp ground ginger of the oven for 1 hour, or until a
with a coconut yogurt- • Finely grated zest 1 orange skewer pushed into the centre
based icing, this carrot • 110g carrots, finely grated of the cake comes out clean.
cake showcases the • 110g walnuts, chopped 4 Leave in the tin on a wire rack
binding properties of • 170g soft light brown sugar to cool for 10 minutes, then
flaxseed, creating a bake remove from the tin and allow
that’s full of flavour For the icing to cool completely.
and is just as moist and • 200g icing sugar 5 To make the icing, sift the icing
light as its egg-based • 35g coconut yogurt sugar into a bowl, then stir in
counterpart. the coconut yogurt little by little
1 Put the flaxseed meal in a to form a soft icing (you may not
Freeze the un-iced cake, large bowl, stir in 5 tbsp water need it all). Spread over the top
MAKE
AHEAD well wrapped, for up to and set aside for 15 minutes to of the cake, then decorate with
3 months. Defrost in the thicken. Heat the oven to 160°C the remaining orange zest.
fridge, then ice to serve. fan/gas 4, then grease and line Per serving (for 8) 556kcals,
There’s no need to peel the loaf tin with baking paper. 28.8g fat (3.6g saturated),
NEXT MONTH DON’T
WASTE the carrots here – just 2 In a large bowl, mix the flour, 6.2g protein, 66.2g carbs
How to be more IT
sustainable give them a good scrub bicarb, salt, cinnamon and (46.8g sugars), 0.7g salt,
with herbs with a vegetable brush. ginger. Stir in half the orange 3.6g fibre

86 [Link]
 Best bargains, plus well travelled
beers and a very English cocktail

Cocktail of
the month
English country garden meets
mojito in this twist on a gin and
tonic. Putting peas in your cocktail
might sound weird, but their fresh
sweet flavour works wonders with
the cucumber and mint.

You can easily infuse

SCALE
IT UP a whole bottle of gin with
this combination of flavours
RECIPE AND PHOTOGRAPH: TOM SHINGLER. FOOD STYLING: POLLYANNA COUPLAND. ALWAYS DRINK RESPONSIBLY

– just leave it for 24 hours to build

up proper flavour, then strain.

Gardener’s delight
Put 1 tbsp frozen peas, 2 tbsp
chopped cucumber and 5 mint
leaves in a cocktail shaker, then
bash them with a muddler or the
end of a rolling pin. Add 1 tsp runny
honey or agave syrup, 1 tbsp lime
juice and 50ml gin, then stir. Leave
for 5 minutes to infuse. Wrap a few
ribbons of cucumber around the
inside of a highball glass, then fill
with ice cubes. Strain the infused
gin into it, then top up with tonic
water. Garnish with a sprig of mint
and a few extra peas.
Per serving 149kcals, 0.3g fat
(no saturated), 0.9g protein,
7.8g carbs (7g sugars), trace salt,
0.2g fibre

››
 Susy’s
best buys
Enjoy some seasonal drinks action with
Susy Atkins’ top picks for spring, all matched
to recipes in this issue, plus a bargain fizz
for Easter and an award-winning new gin

Vandenberg Chardonnay 2019, Paul Mas Réserve Viognier Côte Vivante Atlantique
Adelaide Hills, Australia 13% 2022, Languedoc, France 13% Sauvignon Blanc 2021,
There are light pineapples, juicy The viognier grape delivers ripe, Bordeaux, France 12%
yellow apples and some ripe rounded whites, so it’s useful Crisp, lemony mineral streaks
creamy texture to this elegant for many chicken dishes and and a touch of grassiness
chardonnay from the cool mild creamy curries. With mean French sauv blanc is best
Adelaide Hills region. And fresh apricot, peach and orange friends with asparagus. This
it’s vegan (no animal or fish blossom notes, this is a top one’s super-fresh and spring-like;
by-products were used in its choice for the apricot-glazed try it with the shaved asparagus
making) so altogether a great chicken with cauliflower salad with goat’s cheese
wine to match with the creamy couscous on p98. and grapefruit, p20.
cashew pasta on p84. £10, Tesco £8.50, Marks & Spencer
£10, Co-op
 drinks.

LAST MINUTE EASTER FIZZ

The Best Crémant de Limoux NV, France 12.5%
I love the light creaminess mingling with apples
and oranges in this champagne-method sparkler
from southwest France. Masses of tiny bustling
bubbles too – a well-balanced, keenly priced dry
fizz for holiday get-togethers. £12.50, Morrisons

SPIRIT OF THE MONTH

57° Skye Earth & Sea Gin,
Isle of Skye, Scotland 43%
From an exciting new distillery on Skye, this
gin has picked up a gold award from Global Gin
Masters already and I’m not surprised. It has bold
flavours of juniper and citrus with kelp seaweed
providing a saline hint and a peppery finish.
£40.99 for 70cl, £13.99 for 20cl, [Link];
£44.99 for 70cl, [Link]
Match
of the
month

A6mani Lifili 2021, Salice Brown Brothers Orange Muscat Le Sabbie dell’Etna Bianco
Salentino, Italy 13.5% & Flora, Victoria, Australia 9% 2021, Sicily, Italy 12.5%
A robust, ripe southern Italian Wonderfully aromatic dessert Southern Italian whites with
wine is a must for rich, meaty wine where sweet oranges and a bit of extra ripeness make
pasta sauces and bakes. Here’s tangy lemons mingle with a terrific partners for richer
one from Italy’s heel, with dash of orange blossom. Well fish dishes. This has plenty of
satisfying notes of blackcurrant chilled, it’s a star with fruit clementine and seville orange
and prunes. Crack into it with (and especially citrus) desserts, with a pithy edge. Chill it for
this month’s lamb ragù, p48. such as the fennel, oat and Nathan Outlaw’s john dory
£9.99, Majestic, or £8.99 as orange cheesecake on p60. with beans on p40.
part of a mixed six £8.50 for 35cl, Tesco £13.99, down to £11.99 until
11 April, selected Waitrose
stores and [Link]

[Link] 89
drinks.

Beer school
Go west
Expert Mark Dredge
heads to California,
revelling in the gold
rush of West Coast IPA

I
PAs fill beer shop fridges and supermarket shelves, and are
regulars on tap in the pub, making them one of craft beer’s
most popular styles. You’ll find two main types (along
with the style’s closely related sibling, pale ale): Hazy or
New England (NEIPA) and West Coast or American.
In recent years, classic West Coast IPAs have been left in the
shade, with all the attention on cloudy, yellow-orange East Coast
beers. The latter emerged from the northeast of the US, coming
to be known as New England or Hazy IPA, and they’re soft and Elusive Brewing Oregon Trail,
smooth, low in bitterness and with juicy tropical, stone fruit and England 5.8%
melon aromas from modern hops like citra and mosaic. It was a Perfectly balanced between
new revolution in IPA brewing, following the first revolution which sweeter malts and resinous,
emanated from the West Coast some 30 years earlier. zesty and orangey hops, this
West Coast IPAs were the original American IPAs, coming from TO TRY Berkshire-made IPA is a tasty
California breweries and spreading far and wide. Inspired by tales tribute to the best West Coast
of robustly hopped old English India Pale Ales (see below), these brews. Brilliant with burgers.
new American IPAs had (and still have) a bright golden-amber hue, £4.75 for 440ml,
a base of toasty, caramelised malts and a strong bitterness – the [Link]
use of citrussy, piney and intensely aromatic American hops like
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

cascade, chinook, columbus and simcoe distinguished these brews Rooster’s Baby-Faced Assassin,
from the British versions. Now brewers on both sides of the pond England 6.1%
are reinventing those wonderful bright, bitter and citrussy West All citra-hopped, this IPA from
Coasters as an alternative to the cloudy, juicy and tropical NEIPAs. Harrogate has a punchy aroma
And if a beer just says IPA? Then expect something between of orange, grapefruit, lemon
east and west: citrus, stone fruit and tropical aromas, a lightly and pineapple, with a crisp
hazy appearance, and a noticeable bitterness. Here we celebrate bitterness. Pair with pulled
the best of the west. [Link] pork or carrot cake.
£3 for 440ml, Asda

Sierra Nevada Pale Ale,

IPA’S GLOBAL JOURNEY USA 5.6%
From the 1820s well hopped pale ales were The classic American pale ale.
brewed in Burton on Trent and shipped to Cascade hops give grapefruit,
India, with the hops helping preserve the citrus peel, pine and floral
beer over the six-month journey to Calcutta. aromas alongside a toasty
Almost 200 years later, American brewers malt base and pithy bitterness.
Great with mac and cheese.
took the old idea of an India Pale Ale and
£2 for 355ml, Waitrose
transformed it by using pungent US hops
and drinking the beer as fresh as possible Find more picks at
to appreciate the aromas. From the West [Link]/
Midlands to the West Coast, and back again. beerschool

90 [Link]
PHOTOGRAPH: TOM SHINGLER. FOOD STYLING: EMILY GUSSIN

Quick recipes for busy people, inspired by global

flavours, plus easier-than-you-think Korean
home cooking and glorious breakfast muffins

››
 A world of flavour
Every cook needs quick, easy weeknight recipes that taste
fantastic. These fit the bill with culinary inspiration from around
the world: ItaIy, China, Scandinavia and Japan. Simply genius

Gluten
and dairy
free

RECIPES AND FOOD Apricot-glazed

STYLING EMILY GUSSIN chicken with
PHOTOGRAPHS cauliflower
TOM SHINGLER couscous
 make it every day.

Speedy spinach,
ricotta and
egg pizzas

[Link] 93
make it every day.

Ultimate
comfort
food

Jacket potatoes
with creamy
white beans,
beetroot and dill

94 [Link]
Miso-crusted pork
with purple
sprouting broccol
make it every day.

1 Heat the oven to 200°C fan/ Swap the sardines for any other
gas 7. Rub a little oil over each tinned fish or brown shrimp.
Jacket potatoes take on a potato and season with salt. Do
SCALE
This moreish recipe
the same with the beetroot is easily doubled to
Scandi vibe – not to mention (cutting any very large ones in
IT UP
serve four.
a delightful purple hue – in half), then wrap the beetroot in
foil. Put both directly on a shelf • ½ cucumber
this vibrant, super-simple dish. in the oven and bake for about • 250g fresh pappardelle
You’ll never reach for baked 50 minutes (or 20 if you’ve given • 1 tbsp vegetable oil
them a 10-minute blast in the • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
beans and cheese again microwave first). The potatoes • 1 pak choi, trimmed and leaves
are done when the skin is crisp separated
and the potato is soft inside, and • 120g tin sardines in spring
the beetroot should yield easily water, drained
to the point of a knife. • 2 tbsp light soy sauce
2 Around 15 minutes before the • 2 tbsp rice vinegar
potatoes and beetroot are ready, • 2 tsp crispy chilli oil, plus extra
prepare the filling. Heat a splash to serve
of oil in a pan over a low-medium
heat, then add the shallot and 1 Use a rolling pin to bash the
a pinch of salt and cook for cucumber on a board until it
3 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cracks apart and breaks up
beetroot stalks and cook for a little, then roughly chop into
5 minutes more until softened. large chunks. Scrape into a
3 Stir the beans into the shallot bowl and sprinkle with a little
Jacket potatoes with mixture. After a few minutes, salt. Set aside for 10 minutes.
creamy white beans, add 3 tbsp soured cream and the 2 Meanwhile, bring a large pan
beetroot and dill vinegar. Stir until combined and of salted water to the boil and
Serves 4 creamy, then season, adding heat a large frying pan or wok
Hands-on time 20 min plenty of black pepper. over a high heat. Cook the
Oven time 50 min 4 Split open the jacket potatoes pappardelle until al dente (still
and add the butter. Divide the with bite) according to the pack
Start the potatoes and bean mix among the potatoes, instructions. Add the vegetable
ECO
TIP beetroot off in the then cut the beetroot into oil to the pan/wok.
microwave to reduce the wedges and put on top. Spoon 3 Add the garlic to the oil,
time in the oven – saving energy on the remaining soured cream, sizzle for 30 seconds, then
as well as time. then sprinkle over the dill. add the pak choi and stir-fry
Got an air fryer? The Per serving 383kcals, 8.4g fat for 3 minutes. Add the sardines
KNOW-
HOW potatoes and beetroot (3.7g saturated), 10.5g protein, and cook for another minute,
will take 35-40 minutes 60.5g carbs (6.7g sugars), 0.1g breaking them up a little with
at 200°C. You can still start salt, 11.5g fibre a wooden spoon.
them off in the microwave to 4 Add the soy sauce, 1 tbsp of
reduce the air fryer cook time. Sardine and chilli oil the rice vinegar and 1 tsp of the
noodles with smacked chilli oil to the stir fry, followed
• Olive oil for coating and frying cucumber by the drained ‘noodles’. Stir-fry
• 4 baking potatoes Serves 2 for another minute until
• 4 medium beetroot, beets Hands-on time 20 min everything is well combined.
scrubbed, stalks chopped 5 Drain the cucumber, then stir
• 1 banana shallot, finely sliced Double the ingredients in the remaining vinegar and
DON’T
• 1 garlic clove, finely sliced WASTE for the cucumber and chilli oil. Serve the cucumber
IT
• 400g tin white beans (haricot, keep in the fridge for up alongside the noodles in bowls,
cannellini, butter or similar), to 3 days to enjoy with other drizzling everything with more
drained and rinsed dishes – it will taste even better chilli oil to taste.
• 4 tbsp soured cream the day after you make it. Per serving 552kcals, 15.1g fat
• 1 tsp white wine vinegar You can also cut fresh (2.6g saturated), 28g protein,
EASY
• 10g unsalted butter SWAPS lasagne sheets into thick 73.1g carbs (6.8g sugars),
• Small handful dill to serve noodles before cooking. 2.6g salt, 6.1g fibre →

96 [Link]
Ready
in 20
minutes

We’ve used pappardelle as an easy swap for

the thick, hand-pulled noodles that would
normally grace this Chinese-flavoured dish
The sweetness of apricot jam forms the
base of the sticky-glazed chicken, lightened
with the tang of vinegar and gentle warmth
of pepper flakes. Sitting on a big bed of
whizzed and lightly cooked cauliflower, it’s
filling yet healthy – a simple, flavoursome
dinner. What more could you want? Speedy spinach, ricotta
and egg pizzas
Serves 2
Hands-on time 20 min
1 Heat the oven to 180°C fan/ Oven time 11 min
gas 6 and season the chicken
with salt. Heat 1 tbsp oil in a • 200g spinach
heavy-based ovenproof frying • Plain flour to dust
pan over a medium-high heat, • 2 x 220g balls frozen pizza
then add the chicken, skin-side dough, defrosted (we used
down, and cook for 5 minutes The Northern Dough Co)
until the skin is golden. • 150g ricotta
Meanwhile, combine the apricot • 1 tbsp pine nuts
jam, vinegar, half the garlic and • 10 mozzarella pearls, drained
half the pul biber/chilli flakes in and patted dry
Apricot-glazed chicken a bowl. Turn the chicken pieces • 2 small or medium free-range
with cauliflower over and pour the apricot mixture eggs
couscous over them. Transfer to the oven • Pinch chilli flakes
Serves 4 and cook for 15-18 minutes • 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Hands-on time 20 min (depending on size of the chicken
Oven time 18 min pieces), basting with the apricot 1 Boil a kettle. Put the spinach
mixture halfway through. in a colander over the sink,
We’ve even used the 2 While the chicken cooks, toss then pour over the boiled
DON’T
WASTE cauliflower leaves in the cauliflower leaves with a water to wilt it. Leave to sit
IT
this recipe to make sure splash of oil and a pinch of salt for 5 minutes to drain.
there’s no waste. If the very on a baking tray, then spread 2 Heat the oven to its highest
outer leaves look too thick to in an even layer and roast for setting and put a large baking
use, pop them in a food bag in 8-10 minutes (below the tray (or 2 medium trays) in to
the freezer and keep for making chicken) until crisp on the edges. heat up. On a lightly floured
stock with other veg peelings, 3 Cut the cauliflower into chunks surface, stretch and roll each
odds and ends. and put in a food processor, then ball of pizza dough into a circle
whizz to a coarse crumb. Heat measuring 12-15cm. Put each
• 700g skin-on chicken thighs a good splash of oil in a frying one on a sheet of baking paper.
and/or drumsticks pan, then cook the cauliflower 3 Squeeze the spinach firmly in
• Olive oil to fry and roast couscous and remaining garlic your hands to get rid of excess
• 4 tbsp apricot jam for 5-7 minutes until warmed water, then roughly chop and mix
• 2 tbsp white wine vinegar through and toasted. Season with the ricotta and pine nuts
• 3 garlic cloves, crushed and stir in the roasted leaves, in a bowl. Season with salt and
• 2 tsp pul biber (aleppo pepper) remaining pul biber/chilli and the pepper, then divide the mixture
– or ¾ tsp regular chilli flakes mint. Serve on a platter with the
• 1 large (or 2 small-medium) sticky apricot chicken on top.
cauliflower, leaves removed Per serving 362kcals, 12.4g fat
and reserved (2.7g saturated), 42g protein,
• Small bunch mint, leaves 18.7g carbs (15.5g sugars),
picked and finely chopped 0.5g salt, 3.9g fibre
 make it every day.

between the bases, spreading

it out evenly but leaving a 2cm
border. Dot 5 mozzarella pearls Miso crops up in a lot of recipes these days
on top of each one.
4 Use the baking paper to lift the
– and for good reason. It’s packed with
pizzas onto the hot tray(s), then flavour, seasons food in a way that salt can’t,
bake for 6 minutes. Carefully
crack an egg into the centre of
and a jar of it will happily sit in your fridge
each pizza and sprinkle with the for months. Combining it with breadcrumbs
chilli flakes. Return to the oven
for 4-5 minutes until the egg
for the roast pork and adding it to the
white has set and the pizza crust sesame dressing makes this dish a cracker
has browned. The pizzas will be
very hot, so leave to stand for
a few minutes before serving
drizzled with a little oil. in the hot oil to coat, then roast
Per serving 950kcals, 41.5g fat in the oven for 20 minutes.
(15.8g saturated), 38g protein, 3 Toss the purple sprouting
101.7g carbs (8.6g sugars), 4.3g broccoli in the remaining 1 tsp
salt, 8.9g fibre rapeseed oil and the sesame
seeds, then add to the roasting
tin with the pork. Cook both for
a further 10-15 minutes until the
Frozen pizza pork is cooked through and the
broccoli is lightly charred.
dough is a 4 Cook the rice according
wonderful thing Miso-crusted pork with to the pack instructions. In
purple sprouting broccoli a small bowl, whisk together
– as is veering Serves 4 the sesame oil, lime juice,
away from the Hands-on time 15 min ginger, honey and 1 tsp miso.
Oven time 35 min 5 Once the pork is cooked, rest
classic tomato it for 5 minutes, then slice into
sauce and trying • 3 tsp rapeseed oil thick medallions. Serve the pork
• 1 pork tenderloin (around 600g) and broccoli on the rice with the
something • 2 tbsp white or red miso dressing spooned over.
different. Spinach paste, plus 1 tsp Per serving 439kcals, 25.5g fat
• 30g panko breadcrumbs (5.7g saturated), 39.1g protein,
and ricotta is • 400g purple sprouting broccoli 10.8g carbs (4.6g sugars), 1.4g
a favourite • 1 tsp sesame seeds salt, 5.3g fibre
• 400g sticky rice
combination – • 4 tbsp sesame oil
the fresh, rich • Juice 2 limes
• 10g ginger, finely grated
flavour provides • 1 tsp honey
the perfect base
1 Heat the oven to 180°C fan/
for a just-set egg gas 6 and put a large roasting
tin drizzled with 2 tsp of the oil
inside to heat up. Trim any
excess fat from the pork, then
coat with 2 tbsp miso. Spread
the panko breadcrumbs on a
plate and roll the pork in them
to coat it evenly.
2 Sit the pork in the hot roasting
tin, using tongs to roll it around

[Link] 99
The food
You may have
enjoyed the savoury
zing and tang of
Korean cooking in

I cook restaurants, but are

you ready to magic
it up on a Tuesday

at home night? Korean-born

Londoner Su Scott
shows how easy it is

BY SU SCOTT PHOTOGRAPHS TOBY SCOTT

STYLING RACHEL VERE
 make it every day.

and put in a small bowl. Add the

“There’s a common soy sauce, mirin, sugar, pepper,
misconception that garlic and sesame oil. Let them
marinate for 10 minutes or so
Korean cooking is while you cook the carrots.
difficult, but once 2 For the carrots, heat the oil in a
you understand the pan over a medium heat. Add the
carrots and cook gently for a few
basics, and how the minutes with a good pinch of salt.
predominant flavours You should notice the tint of deep
orangey yellow seeping into the
impact and influence oil and smelling quite fragrant.
one another, you can Remove from the heat when the
carrots have softened. Transfer
start building the to a bowl while hot. Add the
robust flavour profiles mirin and vinegar, combine well
and cover the bowl with a plate
with confidence” SU SCOTT to let the carrots steam further
and marinate in the residual heat.
3 Return to the mushrooms. Heat
the vegetable oil in the same pan
Bibimbap For the mushrooms you fried the carrots in, over a
Serves 2 • 4 dried shiitake mushrooms medium heat. Add the marinated
Hands-on time 30 min, plus • 1 tbsp light soy sauce mushrooms to the pan and cook
20 min soaking • 2 tsp mirin gently for 2 minutes. You’ll
• ½ tsp golden granulated sugar notice the smell of garlic and
“Bibim translates as ‘to mix’ • ¼ tsp ground black pepper sweet soy sauce. Add 3 tbsp of
and bap means ‘cooked rice’. • 1 garlic clove, finely chopped the mushroom soaking water to
It’s essentially a rice bowl • 1 tsp toasted sesame oil the pan. Let it come to a gentle
with toppings you mix to eat. • ½ tbsp vegetable oil bubble, then lower the heat.
It’s a well-known Korean Simmer for 10 minutes or until
dish, loved by all for its For the carrots the mushrooms have absorbed
eye-catching visuals and • 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil all the liquid. Taste for seasoning
deliciousness, and it happens • 200g carrots, cut into and remove from the heat.
to be incredibly nutritious, too. matchsticks (a julienne peeler 4 To fry the eggs, heat the olive
At home, it’s not always an is useful here) oil in a frying pan for a few
elaborate affair. Often, the • 1 tbsp mirin minutes over a medium heat.
dish is influenced by odds and • 1 tbsp rice wine vinegar Crack the eggs in, ensuring they
ends of namul (seasoned are not too close. Let them fry
vegetables) from banchan For the eggs for 2 minutes without touching,
(side dishes) that need eating. • 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil then tilt the pan slightly away
It can be as simple as just one • 2 medium free-range eggs from you to pool the oil and
namul, thrown into a bowl carefully baste around the
with a gnarly fried egg with a Optional extras whites that still appear raw.
runny yolk. All you need is a • Beansprouts Keep the yolks nice and runny.
dollop of gochujang paste and • Sautéed courgettes or radishes, 5 To serve, divide the warm rice
a drizzle of toasted sesame oil wilted spinach... whatever between individual bowls. Arrange
to bind everything together. It needs using up in the fridge the mushrooms, carrots (and any
can be as simple or as complex other vegetables) on top, along
as you want it to be.” 1 For the mushrooms, put the with the fried eggs. Top with a
shiitake in a heatproof bowl and drizzle of sesame oil and serve
• 300g freshly cooked short- cover with boiling water. Set aside with the gochujang.
grain rice (Korean if you can for 20 minutes to rehydrate. Per serving 693kcals, 38.5g fat
find it) to serve Squeeze the excess water out (6.2g saturated), 15.4g protein,
• Toasted sesame oil to drizzle (reserve it), then finely slice the 69.1g carbs (12.2g sugars), 2g
• 2 tbsp gochujang to serve mushrooms, including the stalks, salt, 4.4g fibre →

[Link] 101
make it every day.

“Food allows us to remember and celebrate our they’ll shrink a little when cooked,
then transfer them to a large
roots and feel a sense of belonging, however far mixing bowl. Finely grate the
we may be from home – and these recipes help ginger and squeeze out the pulp
over the meat, so only the juice
me reconnect to my Korean roots. They’re also is collected in the bowl (discard
a love letter to my daughter, spoken through the the pulp). Add the milk, sake, oil,
salt and pepper, then mix it all
dishes of my childhood that I cook in my tiny together to combine. Cover and
London kitchen, where love is spoken tenderly chill for 4 hours (or overnight).
3 Meanwhile, whisk the glaze
through the memories of taste. I believe cooking ingredients (except the chilli)
is about accessibility, and I try to keep things with 100ml water in a small
pan. Once combined, add the
simple at home. It’s helpful that the popularity of chilli and simmer gently for
Korean food has steadily grown more mainstream 10 minutes until the sauce has
thickened to the consistency
over recent years and sourcing Korean ingredients of clear honey. Heat the oven
has become a lot easier for most of us” to 180°C fan/gas 6.
4 Lightly grind the sesame seeds
in a pestle and mortar, stir in the
salt and transfer to a small bowl.
Put the tray of chicken skins in
the oven to cook for 30 minutes
Dak kkochi (chicken • 8 boneless chicken thighs, until crispy and puffed up in
skewers with sesame with skin places. Transfer to a plate lined
chicken skin crumbs) • 30g ginger with kitchen paper to absorb any
Makes 12 skewers • 4 tbsp whole milk excess fat. When cool enough to
Hands-on time 35 min, plus • 2 tbsp sake handle, chop into crumbs and
at least 4 hours marinating • 2 tbsp vegetable oil stir into the ground sesame and
Oven time 30 min • 1 tsp sea salt flakes salt mixture. Set aside.
Specialist kit 12 skewers • ¼ tsp ground black pepper 5 Once marinated, thread the
• 12 spring onions, sliced into chicken onto the skewers,
“Chicken skewers have long 3cm batons alternating 2-3 pieces of meat
been one of the most popular and a piece of spring onion. I like
Korean street foods. Strips For the glaze to thread them fairly tightly but
of dark meat (usually leg) are • 2 tbsp soft dark brown sugar flattened gently by hand, to
grilled over charcoal, then • 2 tbsp light soy sauce ensure an even cooking surface.
brushed with a lick of sauce, • 1 tbsp tomato ketchup Repeat to make 12 skewers.
the recipe for which is the • 1 tbsp gochujang 6 Heat a griddle pan over a
owners’ well-kept secret. Chefs • 1 dried red chilli medium heat until hot. Put the
get quite theatrical, blow- skewers on the griddle and cook
torching the top of the skewers For the crumb for 3 minutes on one side, then
while the undersides grill • 1 tsp toasted sesame seeds turn to cook for 4-5 minutes
slowly over the charcoal heat to • ¼ tsp sea salt flakes more until nicely caramelised all
create what literally translates over. Brush with the glaze and let
as ‘fire taste’ (bul mat). 1 To prepare the chicken, first the sugar bubble and caramelise
The glaze here is not spicy remove the skin. Scrape off any briefly before removing from the
– it’s balanced by sweetness excess fat from the underside heat. Serve with either the
and umami saltiness. It can be of the skin and stretch it out flat chicken skin crumbs sprinkled
made in advance and will keep in a baking tray lined with baking over the skewers or as a dipping
for a few days in the fridge.” paper. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt on the side.
salt and refrigerate until needed. Per skewer 130kcals, 6.9g fat
If using wooden skewers, 2 Cut the skinless thighs into (1.6g saturated), 11.6g protein,
KNOW-
HOW soak in cold water for bite-size cubes or strips suitable 5.2g carbs (4.5g sugars), 1g salt,
30 minutes beforehand. for your skewers, bearing in mind 0.4g fibre →

102 [Link]
 “The flavours of most Korean Kare sotbap • 2 tsp sea salt flakes
(curried pot rice) • 100g frozen peas
dishes can be built around Serves 4 • 2 tsp chopped chives
what we call gazn-yangnyeom, Hands-on time 30 min
Simmering time 30 min 1 Put the rice in a bowl and
which loosely translates as ‘a wash thoroughly. Once the water
balanced assorted seasoning’. “Growing up, one of my starts to run clear, fill the bowl
favourite things about my with cold water and soak the
It broadly consists of a mixture mother making curry was rice for 30 minutes, then drain
of spring onion, garlic, toasted having the leftovers the using a fine sieve. In a small jug,
sesame seeds/oil, sugar and next day. The barely-there measure out the stock or water
potatoes were enticingly and mix with the soy sauce.
salt. These are combined with creamy, onions so small 2 Meanwhile, put the coriander
one or more of the trio of and so sweet, and although and cumin seeds, peppercorns
tinged with brown more and fenugreek in a small pan
Korean fermented seasonings, than luminously vivid green, and toast over a low heat for
or ‘jang’ – ganjang (soy the garden peas still burst a minute or so. Grind them to a
their pop of brightness. fine powder using a spice grinder
sauce); doenjang (fermented I would gladly tuck into the or pestle and mortar. Stir in the
bean paste); and gochujang mildly spiced mud of sauce,
gently heated up to just warm,
chilli powder and turmeric.
3 Heat the vegetable oil in a
(fermented chilli paste) – smooshing it into a hot bowl heavy-based lidded saucepan
to give the dish the desired of rice to bind everything over a low heat. Add the onion
together into a gloriously and a good pinch of salt, then
depth and finish. It really is warming mass of something cook gently for 10-15 minutes,
as simple as that” entirely different. The sauce stirring frequently, until browned.
wasn’t enough to make Add a tiny splash of water if you
everything wet, but perfect to feel they are cooking too fast.
give the rice the gentle curry 4 Melt in the butter, stir in the
A BIT ABOUT flavour. I used to eat it with a garlic and the spice mix and cook
SU – AND
HER FIRST fried egg on top and a dollop for 1-2 minutes, then add the
COOKBOOK of just-about-sour kimchi tomatoes, sugar and salt. Cook
Born and raised accompanying each spoonful. for 5 minutes. Stir in the drained
in Seoul, Su came It tasted heavenly. rice and the stock mixture.
to London alone as This is an ode to that leftover Put on the lid and simmer for
a 19-year-old in the year 2000. She affair. Eat with kimchi.” 10 minutes over a low-medium
later married an Englishman and, heat, then turn the heat down
when they had a daughter in 2015, • 300g white short-grain rice as low as it can go. Add the
Su felt a duty to pass on the Korean • 300ml chicken stock or water peas, return the lid to the pan
heritage she was starting to forget. (for vegetarians) and cook for a further 8 minutes
Re-establishing a connection with • 1 tbsp soy sauce to steam. Turn off the heat and
her Korean-ness through the • 1 tbsp coriander seeds let it sit for 10 minutes with
medium of food is what powered her • 1 tsp cumin seeds the lid firmly left on.
first cookbook, Rice Table: Korean • ½ tsp black peppercorns 5 Carefully open the lid and give
Recipes and Stories to Feed the Soul • ¼ tsp fenugreek seeds it a gentle stir with a rice paddle
(Quadrille £27; on sale 30 March). • ½ tsp kashmiri chilli powder or wooden spoon to mix it all up
These recipes are from the book • 1 tsp ground turmeric – you should notice a slightly
and have been tested by delicious. • 2 tbsp vegetable oil crunchy crust at the bottom of
• ½ onion, finely sliced the pan. Divide the rice among
LOVING THESE RECIPES? • 20g unsalted butter bowls and scatter with chives.
You can get Su’s book, worth £27, • 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped Per serving 433kcals, 11.8g fat
FREE when you subscribe to delicious. • 200g tomatoes, skinned and (3.5g saturated), 10.4g protein,
this month. See p110 for details. roughly chopped 69g carbs (5.5g sugars), 3.1g
• 1 tsp golden granulated sugar salt, 4.8g fibre

104 [Link]
 make it every day.

NEXT MONTH
Vibrant
southeast Asian
recipes from
Lara Lee’s
home kitchen
 The easy bake.

There’s nothin’
like a muffin
Recipe expert and teacher Cherie Denham
combines fruit, nuts and oats in a
buttermilk batter to create light, fluffy
cakes that will set you up for the day
PHOTOGRAPH TOM SHINGLER FOOD STYLING POLLYANNA COUPLAND

Banana and apple • 200g plain flour and sugar, whisking to combine.
crumble muffins • 1 tsp baking powder In a separate bowl, lightly whisk
Makes 12 • 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda the egg, vanilla, buttermilk and
Hands-on time 20 min • 55g porridge oats oil. Pour the wet mixture into
Oven time 20-22 min • 170g soft light brown sugar the flour mixture and stir gently
Specialist kit 12-hole muffin • 1 medium free-range egg with the whisk, just to combine
tin; 12 muffin cases (see • 2 tsp vanilla extract (don’t overmix). Gently stir in the
Cherie’s tips) • 300ml buttermilk apple and banana.
• 55ml olive or vegetable oil 3 Divide the mixture among the
Muffins are a wonderful • 110g coarsely grated apple cases (I use an ice cream scoop
breakfast treat, especially (from 1-2 eating apples) to make sure they’re all equal).
warm from the oven. These • 1 banana, mashed Use your fingers to squeeze
simple apple and banana the crumble mixture together
ones come complete with a For the crumble into clumps, then scatter over
crunchy crumble topping. • 15g plain flour the muffins.
• 15g porridge oats 4 Bake the muffins on the middle
I use tulip muffin cases, • 15g soft light brown sugar shelf of your oven for 20-22
CHERIE’S
TIPS
which are easy to make • 2 tsp blanched hazelnuts minutes until a skewer pushed
yourself using 16cm • 15g unsalted butter into the centre comes out clean.
squares of baking paper, but Serve warm or cold with yogurt
you can also buy the cases 1 Heat the oven to 170°C fan/ and fresh fruit (if you like).
online from suppliers such as gas 5. Line the muffin tin Per muffin 230kcals, 7.5g fat
[Link]. Don’t use with 12 cases. Whizz all the (1.4g saturated), 4.2g protein,
cupcake cases as they aren’t ingredients for the crumble 35.7g carbs (18.8g sugars),
big enough for the job. together in a food processor 0.4g salt, 1.6g fibre
If they’re in season, some until they clump together when
blueberries nestled into the squeezed, then set aside.
NEXT MONTH
Queen Mary
muffin batter before baking 2 Sift the flour, baking powder
Berry bakes for add colour and mini explosions and bicarbonate of soda into a
the new King of juicy sweetness. mixing bowl, then add the oats
make it every day.

[Link] 107
A spoonful
of wonderful
Everything’s better with Rodda’s Cornish clotted
cream – and adding it to desserts is just the start

W
ith its silky, creamy I really like, and it’s very simple
texture and delicate to put together. I use chicken thighs
golden crust that’s because they have so much flavour
achieved through a gentle baking and stay beautifully moist as they’re
process, it’s little wonder Rodda’s cooking, while leeks are still in
clotted cream has become a real season for spring.”
Cornish delicacy. But when it “I always add a little wholegrain
comes to how you enjoy it, a mustard for warmth, and a few
cream tea is only the beginning, generous spoonfuls of Rodda’s
as River Cottage chef Gill Meller Cornish clotted cream, because
shows us with his tempting it creates a wonderfully rich and
baked chicken recipe. creamy sauce.”
“This is one to bring to the Packed full of hearty flavours,
table when you’re looking for yet so simple to make, this is a dish
something comforting,” he says. you’ll want to add to your repertoire
“It’s an all-in-one meal, which and make time and time again.
 advertisement promotion.

Gill Meller’s chicken 1 Heat the oven to 170°C fan/gas 5. Three ways with Rodda’s
thighs with cider, Season the chicken thighs with salt Cornish clotted cream
wholegrain mustard and pepper, then put a large, heavy
and Rodda’s Cornish casserole or flameproof roasting dish Want more ideas on how you can use
clotted cream over a medium/high heat and drizzle this celebrated clotted cream in your
Serves 3-4 in the olive oil. Once hot, carefully cooking? These serving suggestions
Hands-on time 15 min add the chicken thighs, skin-side will be just the ticket…
Cooking time 1 hour down. Fry for 4-5 minutes on each
side until golden, then transfer to Swirl into soup
• 6 organic or free-range a plate, leaving the dish on the heat. Whether it’s to mellow a spicy carrot
chicken thighs 2 Add the bacon to the dish and fry soup or elevate a rich mushroom
• 2 tbsp olive oil for a few minutes until just beginning broth, swirling Rodda’s Cornish
• 6 rashers streaky bacon, to crisp. Scatter in the onion, garlic, clotted cream into your bowl will
cut into small pieces sage and rosemary sprigs, then stir make it look and taste more special.
• 1 onion, finely chopped well. Cook for 4-5 minutes until soft,
• 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced then stir in the leeks. Add the Stir through curries
• Handful sage leaves, chicken back into the dish, skin-side Make curry feel indulgent with
roughly cut into ribbons up, then pour in the cider and bring Rodda’s Cornish clotted cream. Its
• 2 fresh rosemary sprigs to a gentle simmer. Transfer the dish, creamy texture and hint of sweetness
• 2 small-medium leeks, cut uncovered, to the middle of the oven make it the perfect match for dishes
into 1-2cm rounds and cook for 45-50 minutes. such as butter chicken or a korma.
• 450ml medium dry cider 3 Remove from the oven and set
• 227g Rodda’s Cornish over a medium heat. Transfer the Swap out for crème fraîche
clotted cream chicken to a plate and cover with foil, Just like this French culinary staple,
• 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard then stir the Rodda’s Cornish clotted Rodda’s Cornish clotted cream is
• ½ bunch flatleaf parsley, cream and mustard into the dish and great for enriching pasta sauces and
leaves picked and chopped bring back up to a simmer. Leave making luxurious mashed potato.
to cook, stirring once or twice until
the sauce has thickened slightly. Stir
in the parsley and return the chicken
to the dish. Warm through and bring
to the table. Serve with your choice
of sides (mashed celeriac or potato
and purple sprouting broccoli will all
work well).

For more Rodda’s recipe inspiration,

visit [Link]/amazing-recipes
AND GET A
FREE KOREAN
COOKBOOK

“delicious. has re-invigorated

my love of cooking”Delvina, subscriber
 delicious. subscription offer.

NEW INSPIRATION TO BROADEN

YOUR COOKING SKILLS

FREE
Rice Table: Korean Recipes & Stories
to Feed the Soul is a collection of
BOOK 80 recipes showcasing the best
WORTH of Korean home cooking.
£27 A Korean living in the UK, Su
Scott guides you through her larder,
exploring the ferments, pickles and
sauces that lift Korean dishes to the
heights. She shares a comforting
array of recipes, from fried chicken to
kimchi fried rice to black bean sauce
noodles (pictured, opposite – and get
a taste of the book on p100).

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[Link] 111
 NEXT MONTH IN

Three bank hols, the Coronation, Eurovision, half term... It’s the

month of celebration!
ON SALE
Fri 28 Apr

…And don’t
miss the big
Coronation
weekend
food quiz!

Cooking for Recipes that sing The great sarnie

the King of spring makeover
Top chefs’ creations Veg and herb-packed How a hot trend is
– plus bakes from to invigorate your transforming lunch
‘Queen’ Mary Berry cooking in the UK

Plus... MENU A special Indian three-courser from Sumayya Usmani DRINKS The best celebratory
ideas, from cocktails to mini beer barrels HEALTH 10 things you should be eating more of
 health matters.

Foil-wrapped happiness
Worried about your chocolate intake
over Easter? If you reach for the
dark variety, relax. New research
suggests that 85% cocoa dark choc
encourages the growth of a certain
type of gut bacteria thought to
enhance our happiness… The perfect
reason to have just one more piece?

Health
NEWS News, nuggets
of knowledge and
advice you can trust.
By Sue Quinn

EAT MORE KIMCHI... AND RELAX

BEYOND THE Fermented foods like kimchi and sauerkraut are known for
nourishing your gut microbes but now there’s more reason to
HEADLINES eat them. Irish scientists have found eating more fermented
Can eating grapes protect against food and fibre daily can significantly lower stress levels. The
sunburn? The answer is yes, according theory is that this kind of eating, known as a ‘psychobiotic
to media reports of a new US study – but don’t diet’, can improve communication between gut and brain. It’s
pack away the sunscreen, warn scientists at hoped one day it can be used to treat stress, along with
the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA). The exercise, meditation and mindfulness. However, more research
study found a link between consuming grapes is needed to understand the underlying mechanisms.
(in the form of a concentrated drink) and
increased skin resistance to UV light, damage
from which increases the risk of skin cancer.
But, crucially, the EFSA points out it didn’t prove
that eating grapes could protect against sun VEGETARIANS COULD BE MISSING OUT
damage, as the headlines suggested, or reduce Swedish researchers have discovered many meat
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

the risk of skin cancer. The study substitute products like plant-based sausages and
was tiny – just 29 people – and burgers are poor sources of iron and zinc. The
only a small percentage even exceptions were tempeh (fermented soybean) for
responded to drinking the iron, and food made from mycoprotein (such as
grape powder. What’s Quorn) for zinc. The findings show the importance
more, it was funded by for vegetarians and vegans of careful shopping.
the California Table Good plant sources of iron and zinc include lentils,
Grape Commission. chickpeas, tofu walnuts and chia seeds (right).

[Link] 113
THE
HIDDEN
HEALTH
RISK IN
YOUR
FOOD
 health matters.

By stealth, emulsifiers have become commonplace in everyday

foods: chocolate, ice cream and flavoured yogurt, to name but
three. With new research raising concerns about potential health
risks associated with these additives, should we be looking at
food labels more closely? Sue Quinn gets out her magnifying glass

ave you ever wondered processed foods – those that are One theory is that this could
why shop-bought ice highly industrially processed. contribute to the development of
cream and yogurt are Added to bread and baked goods, diabetes and obesity. Not a pretty
delectably creamy? emulsifiers help maintain quality all-round picture.
Or how it is that and freshness. They give chocolate “These experiments have all
industrially the right consistency for moulding been in animals and it’s difficult
manufactured bread and shaping, and make ice cream to translate that into what would
is so soft and takes smoother and more resistant to happen in healthy people,” Prof
ages to go stale? The melting. Emulsifiers also imbue Whelan cautions. “But for anyone
answer can be found some dairy products with an who already has inflammation in
in substances called appealing mouth-feel. their gut, there are questions
food additive emulsifiers, more But evidence is mounting that being asked about whether it
than 60 of which are approved for some added emulsifiers are linked might be caused by emulsifiers.”
use in the EU/UK – and they’re to inflammatory bowel disease – a Prof Whelan’s team is currently
found in 6,600 food products. growing health problem in running a large clinical trial
Added emulsifiers are useful developed countries. Studies also involving participants with
in many ways. They can prolong suggest these additives might Crohn’s disease, a lifelong
a product’s shelf life, ensure it adversely affect metabolic health. inflammatory bowel condition.
remains stable and make food “Research on mice shows Emulsifiers will be removed from
more palatable. These qualities emulsifiers not only alter the gut their diet to see if this reduces or
make a wider range of foods microbiome in a way we don’t even eliminates their symptoms.
available to more people than believe is beneficial to health, but
would otherwise be possible. they also reduce the amount of THE GOOD… AND THE BAD
But emulsifiers are also mucus lining our gut,” explains “Not all emulsifiers have been
controversial, as emerging Professor Kevin Whelan from shown to be harmful... Some have
research suggests some of them King’s College London. “We think been shown to be fairly benign,”
may be harmful to health. First, the combination of those two Professor Whelan adds. There’s
though, a bit more about them… things can cause inflammation in evidence, for example, that
the gut, which is associated with lecithin might lower blood
MAGIC POWERS? bowel disease.” pressure and cholesterol. But
Thanks to their chemical Studies indicate this damage to these three emulsifiers are
structure, emulsifiers help the gut lining allows bacteria into causing particular concern:
combine substances that the bloodstream, disrupting the Carrageenan (E407) found in
normally wouldn’t mix, like oil body’s ability to regulate glucose. flavoured milks, iced coffee, →
PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTYIMAGES

and water. For example, a

naturally occurring emulsifier
called lecithin, found in egg yolks,
is why oil and lemon juice/vinegar Ultra-processed foods are on the rise –
don’t separate in mayonnaise.
This property makes added
they now account for more than 60%
emulsifiers valuable in ultra- of all the calories consumed in the UK
[Link] 115
health matters.

of dreadful allergic reactions,” more readily have emulsifiers

says Dr Sabina Passamonti, a added to them.”
specialist in molecular nutrition
at the University of Trieste and SHOULD WE BE DOING OUR
an adviser to the EFSA. “It’s the BEST TO AVOID EMULSIFIERS?
responsibility of doctors to inform “If you want to eat fewer of them,
people at risk that they must limit try to reduce your intake of
or avoid certain foods.” ultra-processed food,” Prof
The problem is, many people Whelan suggests – and Dr
don’t receive this type of dietary Passamonti agrees: consumers
need to be cautious.
Easy to say, but not so
“Food that’s less processed is easy to do…. For many
people, ultra-processed
likely to be fresher, with more food is key to their
vitamins, minerals and fibre” enjoyment of eating,
plus it can be cheaper and
DR DUANE MELLOR, DIETITIAN
more convenient than
unprocessed alternatives.
What’s the solution, then?
Factory-made dairy-based ice cream and frozen advice, and bowel conditions Dr Duane Mellor, a dietitian at
bread and desserts. often go undiagnosed. Aston Medical School, suggests:
highly
processed
Polysorbates 60 and 80 (E435 “Consider how to replace foods
dairy products and E433) found in edible oils, ON THE RISE? that contain emulsifiers with
are likely ice cream, cake mixes, icing and Another problem is that additives healthier options.” For example,
to contain chocolate syrup. are assessed as safe based on instead of flavoured yogurt, reach
emulsifiers
Carboxymethylcellulose (E466), ‘average’ intakes. But most people for additive-free natural yogurt
known as CMC, found in vitamin have no idea what these safe and add fresh fruit.
and dietary supplements. levels are or how much they’re “Eat food that’s only processed
“These are the most widely consuming. Someone who eats as much as it needs to be,”
investigated emulsifiers in terms lots of ultra-processed food might Dr Mellor says. “It’s likely to be
of their effect on the body – and be exceeding so-called safe levels fresher, with more vitamins,
also ones that have been shown without realising it. minerals and fibre. Ask yourself:
to have more effect on the body,” According to Prof Whelan, is this the tastiest and healthiest
Prof Whelan says. no one really knows what version of what I want to eat?”
Britain’s intake of emulsifiers is.
SAFETY ASSESSMENT Different food manufacturers
At this point you may well be use different quantities and types
asking this question: if all food of emulsifiers in their products.
INSPIRED? additive emulsifiers have been “This data isn’t publicly available
You’ll find carefully tested and approved as to scientists,” he says.
non-faddy safe, how is it possible some might Consumption of ultra-
healthy be harmful? processed foods is on the rise
eating advice The European Food Safety – they now account for more than
every month Authority (EFSA) advises the 60% of all the calories consumed
in European Union (and the UK) on in the UK – so the chances
To make sure food additives. However, it only are most of us are
you never assesses whether they’re safe for consuming more
miss a copy, healthy people; research suggests emulsifiers. Says Prof
subscribe those most at risk of harm from Whelan: “My opinion
now – see emulsifiers suffer inflammatory is that intakes are
p110 for this bowel conditions. increasing as the
month’s “You can’t forbid selling eggs foods available in
special offer. because a few people are at risk the supermarket

116 [Link]
 bite-size break.

Wales’
HIDDEN GEM Sandwiched between the crowd-pulling national parks of
Pembrokeshire to the west and the Brecon Beacons to the
east, Carmarthenshire tends to get overlooked. Dare to leave
the A40, says Dianne Spencer, and you’ll find crumbling castles,
sweeping estuary views and a wealth of local produce, from
natural wines and quality coffee to artisanal cheese and silky
air-dried ham. Oh, and did we mention the pies?

SHORE THING
The seven-mile
swathe of
Pendine Sands

[Link] 117
 LUNCHTIME SPECIALS
CLOCKWISE
FROM ABOVE Start your trip in the ancient
“Head to Albert Rees... Their air-dried
Wright’s food
emporium; county town of Carmarthen at ‘Carma’ ham is as good as any from Parma”
Pendine’s miles the indoor market. Sample award-
of sandy beach; winning organic local cheeses at Oriental Beauty, a floral white- Manson’s refreshingly unstuffy
a hearty bowl Caws Teifi (teifi[Link]), tipped oolong, or Ivan Tea, a restaurant in the village of Capel
of Welsh ham
cawl; the then head to Albert Rees locally made infusion of rosebay Dewi. Starring saltmarsh lamb,
serene ruins ([Link]), where willowherb. Can’t decide? With fine Welsh beef and creative veggie
of Llansteffan muslin-wrapped hams hang curing a Tea Tasting Experience you choices, the menu is a winner –

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES, WRIGHT’S, ALED LLEWELLYN, VISIT WALES, SIMON WALTER
Castle; ‘Carma’
hams at Albert
overhead. Their air-dried ‘Carma’ can try any three for just £9.60. and there’s a great wine list.
Rees; pretty ham is as good as any from Parma. For coffee with a conscience, Just up the road in Llanarthne
pastel colours Blasus Delicatessen (blasusdeli. drive east to Ammanford, where is Wright’s Independent Food
in Llandeilo; [Link]) on King Street is the place B Corp certified Coaltown Coffee Emporium ([Link].
Anthony Rees
of gin distillery to pick up a gourmet picnic. But ([Link]) is bringing uk), the brainchild of Maryann
Jin Talog; local on chillier days, take a seat in The a greener industry to this former and Simon Wright. People travel
produce at Warren in Mansel Street (warren mining town. The roastery runs miles to stock up their larders,
Y Polyn; a more
[Link]), for veg-centric on renewable energy and a tie-in pick up a supper kit or tuck into
ethical brew
from Coaltown fare. Or stroll to Y Sied ([Link]. with the local Llaeth Beynon Maryann’s legendary Cubano
Coffee uk) on St Catherine’s Walk for a Dairy ([Link]) sandwich: roast pork belly,
steaming bowl of ham cawl (stew). means milk comes in steel churns Myrddin Heritage ham, hafod
Learn the secret to making this (no plastic). Check out the milk cheddar, pickles and sriracha
and other Welsh classics on one vending machine in the carpark, mayo on home-baked ciabatta.
of owner Lisa Fearn’s cookery then recharge with a cup of Black
classes (from £200 for two people). Gold, the roastery’s house blend. MEET THE MAKERS
Welsh wines are nothing new,
TEA, COFFEE – OR MILK? A SENSE OF PLACE but at Hebron Vineyard
In Guildhall Square, Tea Traders Local sourcing is big in these parts. ([Link]), in the
([Link]) offers more than It’s the basis for the beautifully Preseli foothills, Jenna Vickers
100 smartly packaged loose-leaf balanced menus at Y Polyn and Paul Rolt are pushing the
teas from around the world. Try ([Link]), Mark and Sue boundaries, making zero-

118 [Link]
 bite-size break.

intervention natural wines “right plenty of fellow butchers across

on the limits of viable viticulture”. the county agree they’re the best.
The £30 tour and tasting (booking In the pretty market town of WHERE TO STAY
essential) includes local cheeses, Llandeilo, the hilly streets offer • Mansion House is a
homemade bread and Jenna’s a treasure trove of foodie finds, stately late-Victorian
luscious chutneys. from artisan chocolate and ice residence with smart
If you fancy something stronger, cream at Heavenly on Rhosmaen bedrooms and sweeping
book a free gin tasting at Jin Street ([Link]), to views over the Towy
Talog ([Link]), Anthony spectacular giant sharing estuary. A visit to Moryd,
Rees and David Thomas’s ‘nano doughnuts at The Duffnuts Co their two AA rosette
distillery’ on their picturesque on Carmarthen Street. restaurant, is unmissable.
former dairy farm. Hand crafted Doubles from £175 B&B.
in small batches, their award- WHEN YOU’RE NOT TUCKING mansionhousellansteffan.
winning signature pour is an INTO THE FOOD... [Link]
organic London Dry gin with a big Hike the glorious seven-mile
hit of wild Uzbekistan juniper stretch of Pendine Sands or take • In strolling distance of
(said to be the best in the world). the blustery coastal path to the Llandeilo, dog-friendly
Additional aromatics, including romantic ruins of Llansteffan Llwynhelig Manor offers
the farm’s own bay and lemon Castle and secluded Scotts Bay. stylish B&B rooms and
verbena, flavour their seasonal Gawp at the glazed expanse continental breakfasts in
twin-botanical gins. of Norman Foster’s Great the beautifully restored
For more meaty fare, head Glasshouse dome at the National Georgian house. Self-
south to St Clears. At Eynon’s Botanic Garden of Wales, home catering options, including
([Link]), pick up prime to one of the world’s foremost the bijou Gardener’s
Welsh beef and dry-cured bacon, Mediterranean plant collections. Cwtch studio, are in
expertly matured in their Discover an eclectic selection of converted outbuildings.
Himalayan salt chamber. Then gorgeous homeware at Davies & Doubles from £135.
NEXT MONTH
cross the road to Deri Page Co ([Link]) in [Link]
A visit to
Butcher’s for a truly champion Llandeilo: the soft, woolly Welsh Aberdeenshire
meat pie. Pubs, chippies and blankets are a real find. in Scotland

[Link] 119
 AVEL CLU
R

B
delicious.
TRAVEL
OFFER
ALL TRIPS ARE ATOL
PROTECTED AND
FINANCIALLY
BONDED

A SLICE OF

SICILY
Discover Sicily’s distinct and delicious
cuisine on this immersive, week-long
tour of the spectacular Italian island
with unforgettable cooking classes,
local wine tastings and more

S
itting in the heart of the Mediterranean, Sicily
is so much more than a wildly beautiful island.
Over centuries, its food has been influenced by
the bounty on its doorstep, from the shellfish and
seafood of its waters to the zesty citrus and fragrant
herbs from the land. Sicily’s culinary evolution has
also been shaped by the nationalities that have come
and gone, leaving their mark in the form of Arab,
Greek, French and North African specialities.

AN ISLAND PANTRY
Sicily draws on its local produce to create its famous
dishes. Porcini mushrooms are a speciality, thriving
in the fertile soils of Mount Etna, which also produce
incredible cherries, pistachios, vegetables and the
grapes for Italy’s best wines. Sicily’s famous blood
oranges are championed in local sweet treats and
used to flavour refreshing granitas.

SIMPLICITY IN STREET FOOD

The island is known for its street food, and there’s a
vast choice of it in Palermo, but away from the capital, THE SICILIAN FAMILY TABLE
pretty towns like Castell’Umberto showcase their Sicilian food culture extends beyond the streets
own treats during longstanding local street festivals into a far more leisurely affair when families gather
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

involving exciting wine barrel races and more. around the table to enjoy meals together al fresco.
Start with warm oozing arancini – fried rice balls You’ll see these family get-togethers in the island’s
stuffed with a range of fillings. These cheap bites are restaurants, sharing huge Sicilian-style wood-fired
irresistible, and it’s almost impossible to stop at pizzas – topped perhaps with prized local porcini
one. Make sure you save room for something sweet, mushrooms – or tucking into something heartier like
too, from the obligatory gelato to local favourites pasta alla norma, created with the island’s
such as cannoli (flavoured ricotta-filled pastries) and aubergines, or pasta chî sàrdi, made with small
sfingi (sugar-coated doughnuts). sardines fresh off the morning’s fishing boats.
 exclusive offers.

A CULINARY TOUR TO SAVOUR PRICE From £1,999 per

With all the fabulous tastings in store, you’ll be fully person for eight days*
acquainted with the food of Sicily by the end of this DATES 7-14 November 2023
wonderful holiday, and having taken part in cookery
classes led by expert instructors, you’ll be cooking YOUR ITINERARY
like a Sicilian nonna when you get home. Day 1 Arrive in Capri Leone
On the tour you’ll stay at the family-run Ristorante- Day 2 Frazzanò
Hotel Antica Filanda, perched in the olive tree-dotted Day 3 Capo d’Orlando
hills of Capri Leone, with beautiful views over the Day 4 Tindari
Tyrrhenian Sea and the Aeolian Islands. Day 5 Santo Stefano
di Camastra
HIGHLIGHTS Day 6 Castell’Umberto
Sample excellent local food Day 7 Nebrodi Mountain Park
You’ll dine most nights at the Ristorante-Hotel Antica Day 8 Return home
Filanda (it has a Michelin Bib Gourmand). Here chefs
Pinuccia, Pina, Nuccia and Nina prepare recipes WHAT’S INCLUDED
handed down through the family for generations. • Seven nights’ bed and
breakfast accommodation
Enjoy cookery classes at the 3-star Ristorante-
During three different cookery classes, you’ll learn Hotel Antica Filanda, based
how to make fish antipasti, vegetable dishes and on shared occupancy of a
fresh authentic pasta. You’ll pick up local knowledge twin/double room
from local chefs and producers, so you can wow • Return flights from London
guests at your next dinner party. Gatwick to Catania and all
transfers
Benefit from a knowledgeable local guide • Full touring itinerary with
Travelling with you on this trip is expert tour visits conducted by tour
manager, Tullio Scurria, a Sicilian from the town of manager Tullio Scurria
Castell’Umberto. He’ll share his insights on the • Three hands-on cookery
island’s food culture and will even invite you to his lessons
hometown, where his wife Rosalia will cook for you. • Watch a ceramics
masterclass
Hit the food festival • Wine tasting
Also in Castell’Umberto, you’ll join the locals as they • Baking demonstration and
celebrate at Palio di San Martino, a street festival wine tasting in Tullio’s home
showcasing the area’s fine food and wine. There’ll be • Five lunches and various
music, exhibitions, food stalls and an adrenaline- tastings as per itinerary
pumping Corsa delle Botti – a thrilling barrel race. • One dinner in a pizzeria
• Welcome drink and six
Stay by the sea dinners at the hotel
Your hotel is perched in olive tree-clad hills with • A bottle of wine in your
views over the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Aeolian room on arrival, exclusively
Islands. You’ll have an afternoon in Capo d’Orlando, for delicious. readers
a beautiful seaside resort town, where you can relax
on the beach or have a drink on the promenade. *
FROM PRICE IS PER PERSON, BASED ON TWO PEOPLE
SHARING A ROOM, SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. PRICE AND
CLOCKWISE FROM ITINERARY CORRECT AT TIME OF PRINT BUT MAY BE
LEFT Sicily’s coast SUBJECT TO CHANGE. SINGLE SUPPLEMENT £196.
Watch a ceramics masterclass DEPOSIT £250. A GOOD DEGREE OF MOBILITY IS
is dotted with REQUIRED DUE TO MODERATE WALKING REQUIRED
pretty harbours; You’ll also have time to learn about other parts of DURING THE TRIP. LOCAL CHARGES SUCH AS TOURIST TAX
MAY APPLY. TRAVEL INSURANCE IS NOT INCLUDED BUT
the spectacular Sicily’s heritage. A visit to the town of Santo Stefano REQUIRED FOR MOST OVERSEAS TRIPS, AND SHOULD BE
Shrine of the Black di Camastra will allow you to discover more about TAKEN OUT AT TIME OF BOOKING. IMAGES USED MAY NOT
REFLECT YOUR ACTUAL TOUR EXPERIENCE. THIS HOLIDAY
Madonna, Tindari; MAY BE SOLD THROUGH OTHER SELECTED BRANDS. TOUR
famous Sicilian the beautiful pottery made here – and you’ll even get IS OPERATED BY AND SUBJECT TO THE BOOKING
CONDITIONS OF TRAVEL EDITIONS GROUP LTD, ABTA
lemons; fresh fish to see it being made by an artisan. V3120 AND TS TRAVEL LIMITED (ATOL BONDED).
with couscous – an
ingredient left by
the Arabs; view
TO BOOK CALL 02036 427892 AND QUOTE ‘DEL TST SICILY’, OR FOR MORE
from the Ristorante-
Hotel Antica Filanda INFORMATION VISIT [Link]/sicily

[Link] 121
 discoveries
We test many, but few make the grade... Here’s our pick
of the best new things from producers large and small

Wildness
tamed
If you can’t get hold of wild
garlic for our recipes on
p70, get a piece of the
action with Tracklements’
special edition Wild Garlic
Sauce. It’s actually more of
a wild garlic mustard, with
honey as well as the wild
garlic picked in Wiltshire
woodlands. The flavour is You’ll go nuts
intriguing, somewhere
between Scandi-style
for them
mustard & dill sauce and Manilife is famous for
tartare sauce. Try it its quality nut butters,
with hot-smoked trout, so a foray into snacking,
pan-fried white fish or by way of Cocoa Dusted
even roast pork. STOCK UP ON STOCK Peanuts, demanded to
£3.75 for 170g, delis and Wise cooks know the quality of the stock you be checked out. Imagine
farm shops nationwide and use is the difference between an okay and a great a richly roasted peanut
[Link] casserole, risotto or gravy. Homemade is meeting a liberal dusting
economical and freezes brilliantly (find of ethically sourced
a comprehensive guide at deliciousmagazine. cocoa and you’re there...
[Link]) but when you don’t have time, Take Stock A savoury-sweet (but
is a quality understudy. Fish, vegetable (vegan), not overly sweet) hybrid
beef or chicken – they’re all organic and additive of the highest order.
free, gently seasoned with a clean flavour. The £3 for 75g (£2.87 if
stocks are pasteurised and sold in ambient you buy a box of 8),
cartons with a two-year shelf life, so they’re [Link];
useful storecupboard standbys. The price tag is also stocked by
high, but that’s a reflection of the quality of the Planet Organic
ingredients and the small-batch production.
£6 for 500ml, Booths – or direct from
[Link]
 in the know.

SPLURGE GIFT – OR DIY

Every now and then a product has us all fighting to try it –
in this case, sneaking an extra one and wrapping it up to
take home. Harvey Nichols’ chocolate-covered medjool
dates are staggeringly good (covered in milk, dark or white
choc, with adornments from pistachio crumble to gold leaf
and spiced biscuit). The dates inside, ethically sourced from
Jordan, are so fudgy they’re like caramel, and the choc-to-
date ratio is just right. They’re also staggeringly expensive
at £60 for a box, but then this is a hefty boxful of 20,
weighing in at 750g. As a last-minute Easter gift for
someone special, they really are worth it.
Give Harvey Nicks a
Can’t afford £60? Beat Harvey Nichols and make your own... run for its money with
Search ‘chocolate-dipped dates’ at [Link]. the delicious. version
Simple to do; stunning to look at; wonderful to eat.

Hot on the shelves

The most alluring new items in the aisles
TESTERS: LES DUNN, KAREN BARNES, LOUISA DAVIES, TOM SHINGLER. PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTYIMAGES

STICKY SITUATION TOFU WITH EXTRAS LORD OF THE RINGS

Pouches of microwaveable rice are Tofu haters say it’s rubbery and bland Fox’s Party Rings have been a children’s
a bit of a lifesaver, especially at but The Tofoo Co’s sriracha-flavoured party staple since their invention in the
lunchtime – and this new sticky rice version will make them think again. It 1980s. More recently the mini rings
from Tilda opens the door to poke crisps up impressively in a little oil and were introduced and now they’ve broken
bowls and donburi in an instant. doesn’t need to be pressed before use, the mould again with a choc version.
Stir-fry what needs using up in saving you lots of time. The sriracha Tester Les ate them with child-like glee
your fridge, make a quick soy-based tang comes through but in a mild, – who said they’re just for kids?
sauce or dressing and spoon it over entry-level way. Brush it with a little Fox’s Party Rings Choc Minis,
the rice for a meal in minutes. honey and lime juice to add extra zing. £1.19 for 5 x 21g packs of 6 biscuits,
£1 for 250g, Tesco, Sainsbury’s & Ocado £2.85 for 280g, Morrisons Tesco & Asda

[Link] 123
in the know.

April ESSENTIAL RECIPE INFO

Recipe index
Our symbols explained
You can freeze all or most
of the recipe. Unless stated
otherwise, freeze the finished dish
for up to 3 months. Defrost and
heat until piping hot throughout.
• Lamb, anchovy & • Creamy cashew &
rosemary ragù with artichoke pasta 84 Vegetarian Vegan
Gluten free Dairy free
paccheri 48 • Jacket potatoes with Recipes with the above symbols
• Lemony chicken & spring creamy white beans, are suitable for special diets
veg broth with asparagus beetroot & dill 96 provided you choose appropriate
free-from ingredients – check the
gremolata 24 • Kare sotbap (curried pot
label. Other recipes can be adapted
• Miso-crusted pork with rice) 104 for special diets – see our Make It
purple sprouting broccoli • Passive red lentil dal Veggie and Easy Swaps tips.
99 78 Standard kit
• Sichuan-style dry-fried • Peppercorn oyster Our recipes assume cooks will have
asparagus with pork mushrooms with cannellini a food processor/blender/stick
blender, an electric stand mixer/
mince 26 mash 85 hand mixer and a selection of pans,
• Speedy spinach, ricotta & tins and casseroles, as well as
Fish & seafood based egg pizzas 98 compostable baking paper and
kitchen paper. We give alternative

35
• Chilli red mullet fritters • Spring vegetable gnocchi
methods for combining ingredients
with tomato & olive with beurre blanc 50 if possible, and specify the size
relish 35 of dish/tin needed if it’s relevant.
• Farinata with asparagus, SWEET THINGS We also think a digital probe
thermometer is helpful for cooking
trout, poached egg & • Banana & apple crumble meat, making preserves and so on.
STARTERS, SIDES & hollandaise 26 muffins 106
Prep and cooking times
NIBBLES • Hake cigars with onions, • Chipotle chilli chocolate All our timings include prep.
• Burrata with croutons & white wine, raisins & tarts 60 Hands-on time is when you’re
nettle & basil pesto 50 saffron yogurt 37 • Fennel seed, toasted oat & chopping, stirring, assembling,
frying or grilling.
• Honey-roast radishes with • John dory with beans, orange cheesecake 60
Oven/simmering time is when you
whipped butter beans & ham & roasted red pepper • Juniper millionaire’s can leave the dish unattended in
dukkah 3 relish 40 shortbread 59 the oven or on the hob.
• Pancetta-wrapped • Plaice & bass braised • Pineapple & pink Nutritional information
asparagus with baked feta in red wine with peppercorn frangipane Recipes are analysed for nutritional
content by an expert nutritionist.
& chilli honey 23 shallots, peas & oyster tart 59
Calculations may vary, depending
• Pickled asparagus mushrooms 35 • Soured cream sage on your choice of ingredients, and
tonnato 20 • Potato pissaladière 30 doughnuts 76 include listed ingredients only.
• Shaved asparagus salad • Sardine & chilli oil • Vegan carrot cake Our suppliers
with goat’s cheese, noodles with smacked 86 Fresh eggs for our recipe testing
are supplied by Clarence Court
watercress & grapefruit cucumber 96
([Link]); meat is from
20 • Sardines with feta, OTHER The Ginger Pig ([Link]).
• Tzimmes 44 orange, cucumber & • Gardener’s delight Handmade crockery supplied by
oregano salad in an ouzo cocktail 87 Sofia Ceramics ([Link]).
MAIN COURSES dressing 40 • Wild garlic butter Prices
Meat based 72 These are checked and correct at
the time of going to press.
• Apricot-glazed chicken Vegetarian & vegan • Wild garlic capers
Oven temperatures
with cauliflower couscous • Asparagus tikka masala 73
We give fan oven and gas mark
98 24 • Wild garlic oil temperatures in our recipes. For
• Dak kkochi (chicken • Bibimbap 101 72 conventional ovens without a fan,
skewers with sesame • Bucatini cacio e pepe add 20°C to the fan temperature.

chicken skin crumbs) 102 52

OUR GENERAL Ts&Cs 1. All information forms part of the terms and conditions. 2. Competitions open to UK residents aged 18 and over, except employees (and their families) of Eye to Eye Media Ltd or
other associated company. 3. Prizes are as offered. No cash alternatives. Subject to availability. 4. To enter, unless otherwise stated, visit [Link]/promotions and follow the instructions.
No purchase necessary. One entry per person. 5. Unless specified otherwise, entry to competitions ends 30 April 2023. 6. Entries received after the closing date will not be considered. 7. No responsibility
is taken for entries lost or delayed. 8. Winners will be selected by an independent panel. The judges’ decision is final: no correspondence will be entered into. 9. Winners will be notified directly and
their names listed at [Link]/promotions. 10. Winners agree to take part in publicity. 11. Information given will not be supplied to a third party. 12. Eye to Eye Media Ltd reserves the
right to amend these terms and conditions, or to cancel, alter or amend the promotion, if deemed necessary in its opinion. 13. Eye to Eye Media is not responsible for third-party offers or discounts.

124 [Link]
delicious. directory delicious. directory delicious. directory delicious. directory

Use Code “DELICJ” for 10% off, expires 30.04.23

[Link]

ÝÎæ®ÝΠÅÝj­ææ­đæØ% aÐğa  ¸ėaΝÅݸė ONLY £ 59.99

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USUALLY £11.90

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Enjoy a selection of 7 wines and 4 food delicacies, direct from our Italian wineries for just £59.99, With your wine selection you will also
saving up to £20.20. What’s more, we’ll include a FREE WOODEN WINE BOX SET receive these 4 authentic Italian delicacies:
containing a bottle of Andrea Vino Rosso or Grillo Sicilia doc Organic Wine. PLUS, DELIVERY IS FREE! 1x Spaghetti 100% Italian durum wheat
semolina 300 g
RED WINE SELECTION MIXED WINE SELECTION WHITE WINE SELECTION 1x Mediterranean Olive sauce 180 g
£80.19 | £59.99 | SAVE £20.20 £77.09 | £59.99 | SAVE £17.10 £76.29 | £59.99 | SAVE £16.30
CODE: 77560 CODE: 77535 CODE: 77536 1x Grilled vegetables Bruschetta 170 g
2x Rosso DICASA Black Label 96 2x Rosso DICASA Black Label 96 2x Raggiante Bianco 1x Frollini al Limoncello 200 g
AVAILABLE ONLY WHILE STOCKS LAST

1x Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 1x Eventus Rosso 1x Pecorino Terre di Chieti IGT 96

DOC 2021 Collection 2x Raggiante Bianco 2021 Collection
2x Rosso della Terra 2x Castelli Romani DOC 2x Eventus Bianco
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1 EXTRA 1 EXTRA PLUS 1 EXTRA BOTTLE FREE BOTTLE 1 EXTRA
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FREE FREE Biologico FREE

YOURS
PLUS a FREE exclusive WOODEN WINE BOX SET with 5 WINE ACCESSORIES! FREE
LINES OPEN: MON-FRI 8AM-8PM, Contains a bottle of Andrea or Grillo,
Order now call 0800 260 5664 quoting 8604 for fast, SAT 8AM-5PM. THIS IS NOT
a sommelier’s corkscrew, wine thermometer,
A WINE CLUB. NO COMMITMENT
free delivery or online at [Link]/8604 TO MAKE FURTHER PURCHASES. wine pourer, wine stopper & drip ring. cm 36 x 12 x 12

TERMS & CONDITIONS: We attempt to deliver orders within 10 days but please allow up to 28. Please note that parcels may arrive separately. These wines are limited in the UK to customers aged 18 and over, and subject to availability. Deliveries to UK mainland and N. Ireland only (Eire and Channel Islands
excluded). For deliveries to Scottish Islands – Highlands (including postcodes IV40 & IV54), Isle of Man and Northern Ireland, a surcharge of £6.95 per case is applicable, unfortunately we are unable to deliver to the Republic of Ireland, the Channel Islands or the Scilly Isles. Orders may be refunded within
7 working days from the day after the goods are received provided items are unopened and intact. Call Customer Services on 0800 260 5664 to arrange collection and a full refund will be made within 30 days. If goods are damaged or you’re not entirely satisfied, call Customer Services to return them at
our cost and to arrange a full refund or replacement. Where exact products named in this offer are unavailable, Giordano will provide substitute goods of equivalent quality and price. If these are found to be unsatisfactory and you wish to return them, please inform Customer Services to cancel your order
where the costs of collection will be met by Giordano. All prices include VAT. Sole shareholder company and subject to the direction and coordination of the Italian Wine Brands SpA. Information ex art. 13, GDPR in its complete version on [Link]/privacy OFFER ENDS 30.06.2023

To advertise please call Jasmine on 020 7150 5852

delicious. directory delicious. directory delicious. directory delicious. directory

To advertise please call Jasmine on 020 7150 5852

delicious. directory delicious. directory delicious. directory delicious. directory

Enjoy suer drees!

ÁűúĩĩàÙűäőĩőĂĆúĂÚĂÁƇĢú

Lightweight, breathable
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TEL: 01326 373268 [Link] big bloomers [Link]

A timeless collection of sweet and savoury

baking recipes from Antwerp to Amsterdam

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It is an engrossing, original and
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rich and fascinating food culture
of one of our closest neighbours.”
FELICITY CLOAKE

Available to buy at Waterstones

To advertise please call Jasmine on 020 7150 5852

take five.

PUZZLES PAGE JUMBO CROSSWORD

There’s a prize to be won and fun to be had with Hugh Thompson’s crossword and
food quiz. Give your brain a workout – it’s what a cuppa and cake were made for

1 2 3 4 5 Across
1 French term for a steak from the rib area (9)
6 7 8 Pud made of cream – often lemon flavoured (6)
9 Edible legume; the seeds are often used for hearty
8 9 soups or stews (6)
12 Sandwich biscuit made with white cream – very
popular in the US (4)
10 11
13 Japanese rice wine used for cooking (5)
14 Tubular pasta often used for a baked cheesy dish
12 13 14 beloved by The Sopranos (4)
17 Black seeds suitable for a domestic goddess? (7)
15 16 18 Classic cocktail said to be “an American invention as
perfect as a sonnet” (7)
17 18 19 In Scotland it’s biscuity but in Staffordshire it’s more
like a savoury pancake (7)
22 Vegetable that’s used as a fruit – often partnered
with custard (7)
24 ____ ham: celebrated dry-cured delicacy from the
19 20 21 22 23
north of England (4)
25 The flavour of pastis and ouzo (5)
26 To cut, especially of herbs such as chives (4)
29 Medium-size meaty fish similar to 5 down; the
24 25 26 Japanese use it as dry flakes to flavour stock (6)
30 Pudding of sponge, jelly, fruit and custard (6)
31 Thistle-like plant that produces an oil used for
27 28
cooking and cosmetics (9)
PRIZE CROSSWORD NO. 51

29 30
Down
2 & 6 Stir-fried rice – Indonesia’s national dish (4,6)
3 Greek wine flavoured with pine resin (7)
31 4 A mineral required by your body, found in dairy items,

WEBSITE FOR INGREDIENT & ALLERGEN INFORMATION. CONTAINS MILK, SOYA, EGGS, NUTS, PEANUTS & SULPHUR
oily fish, soy products, kale and more (7)

CRYPTIC CLUE SET BY LES DUNN. *FOR TS&CS, SEE P124. **PLEASE SEE PRODUCT PAGE ON THE FLAPJACKERY
5 Valuable fish, popular canned – and for 7 down (4)
7 Sushi type – oval of rice topped with a slice of fish (6)
HOW TO WIN A PRIZE 10 Thin-bodied fish with a spot behind the eye – find
Complete the crossword puzzle correctly, take a picture and email it to it in the magazine (4,4)
info@[Link] by the end of the month for a chance to win* 11 Korean rice dish usually topped with a fried egg and
drizzled with spicy sauce (8)
15 A soft drink with a dollop of ice cream on top (5)
16 Freshwater fish – sought by fly fishermen and
JUMBO CROSSWORD PRIZE cooks alike (5)
Win a Flapjackery Taste of the West box 20 Relatively large flat fish, known as king of the sea (6)
of 12 giant gluten-free flapjacks plus a 21 Hearty German one-pot dish (7)
jute bag, worth over £50. Made in Devon, 22 Northern Italian creamy rice dish (7)
the flapjacks’ array of flavours includes 23 ______ Bennett: English author who had an omelette
clotted cream fudge and peanut butter named after him at The Savoy hotel (6)
brownie – all crunchy, crumbly and laden 27 ____ bean: American name for a butter bean (4)
with golden syrup.** [Link] 28 The leaves of this plant are used to make
dolmades (4)

CRYPTIC CLUE: WIN A £50 CO-OP GIFT CARD ANSWERS to FEBRUARY CROSSWORD NO. 49:
ACROSS 1 Casserole 8 Bicarb 9 Sundae 12 Idli 13 Pyrex
For your chance to win £50 to spend in store, 14 Yarg 17 Gherkin 18 Sardine 19 Insulin 22 Bath bun
solve the cryptic clue on the magazine spine, 24 Eels 25 Brace 26 Rice 29 Gelato 30 Tripel 31 Buckwheat
DOWN 2 Arak 3 Sabayon 4 Rashers 5 Lent 6 Gillie 7 Tamari

£50
then email your answer with your name,
10 Linguine 11 Guernsey 15 Skill 16 Brith 20 Salted
full UK address and phone number to info@ 21 Norfolk 22 Bycatch 23 Beigel 27 Ragù 28 Piña

GIFT CARD [Link] by 30 April 2023.*

NB Last month we gave the answers to January’s crossword
Solution to February’s clue: deep-fried Mars bar but they were mislabelled as December’s answers

128 [Link]
 EYE TO EYE MEDIA LTD,

THE FOOD QUIZ 10 KENNINGTON PARK PLACE, LONDON SE11 4AS

[Link]
FOR SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES PLEASE CALL 01858 438424

1 Which of these items

is not usually found
in Italian salsa verde?
6 A hanky panky
cocktail contains
sweet vermouth,
Karen Barnes Editorial director, delicious.

ART DESK
Jocelyn Bowerman Lead art director, delicious.
a) Olives Fernet-Branca, orange
Helen Bull Art director, delicious.
b) Capers twist and what else? Naomi Lowe Head of design, Eye to Eye Media
c) Anchovies a) Gin
FOOD DESK
d) Garlic b) Rum
Tom Shingler Head of food
c) Absinthe Emily Gussin Food producer

2 Khachapuri is a
cheesy bread from
d) Tequila Pollyanna Coupland Food producer
Hannah Moyce Shoot production manager
[Link]@[Link]
which country?
a) Pakistan
b) Albania
7 Where was the first
hot chocolate &
coffee house in the UK?
Daisy Hogg, Sue McMahon Recipe testers
Fiona Hunter Nutritionist

c) Estonia a) Bristol EDITORIAL DESK

info@[Link]
d) Georgia b) Edinburgh
Les Dunn Managing editor, delicious.
c) City of London Hugh Thompson Projects editor

3 In Jack Kerouac’s
On the Road, Sal
d) Oxford Louisa Davies Projects editor
Phoebe Stone Feature writer

8
Paradise fuels his trip Socca is a flatbread and co-ordinator, delicious.
across America with… from Nice in France. DIGITAL DESK
a) Hot dogs & fries What is it made from? Vic Grimshaw Head of digital, Eye to Eye Media
b) Apple pie & ice cream a) Semolina flour Fiona Logan Digital editor and content producer
c) Meatloaf b) Chickpea flour Thea Everett Deputy digital editor

d) Choc chip cookies c) Buckwheat flour MARKETING & PROMOTIONS

d) Rye flour Jane Geoghegan Marketing manager

4 What is the official

national dish of the
Isle Of Man 9 What temperature
is pasteurised milk
CONTRIBUTORS
Susy Atkins Wine editor
Sue Quinn, Debora Robertson
With thanks to: Tina Betts, Stephanie Thomson
a) Pan-fried scallops heated to?
b) Chips, cheese and a) 63.7 °C EYE TO EYE MEDIA
gravy b) 68.7 °C Seamus Geoghegan Managing director
c) Grilled kippers c) 71.7 °C [Link]@[Link]
Adrienne Moyce Publishing director
d) Boiled potatoes and d) 74.7 °C
[Link]@[Link]
herring Jake Hopkins Production director

5 Put these chef ranks

in ascending order
10 What grape
is beaujolais
made from?
Darren Blundy Finance director
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Adam Wright Finance manager 01733 373135
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a) Chef de cuisine a) Cabernet franc
b) Chef de partie b) Merlot ADVERTISING SALES
c) Commis chef c) Gamay Jason Elson Advertising director
020 7150 5394 [Link]@[Link]
d) Sous chef d) Pinot noir
Catherine Crosby Joint head of clients & strategy
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10) c (beaujolais is a light, low-tannin wine whose grapes should be handpicked) delicious. magazine is published under licence from News Life Media by Eye
called farinata or torta di ceci) 9) c (and only for between 15 and 25 seconds) to Eye Media Ltd. ISSN 1742-1586. Printed in the UK by Walstead Group Ltd.
sold coffee and chocolate in the first coffee house in the country) 8) b (also Colour origination by Rhapsody. Copyright Eye to Eye Media Ltd. All rights
(in 1650 cocoa was first advertised in England, in Oxford, where Cirques Jobson reserved. Reproduction in whole or part prohibited without permission. The
Ada Coleman, (female) head bartender at The Savoy hotel, London, 1903-25) 7) d publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors in advertisements, articles,
modern dish – b – is the real national dish) 5) c, b, d, a 6) a (it was created by photographs or illustrations. Eye to Eye Media Ltd is a registered data user
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nutritious”) 4) d (they’re all popular on the Isle of Man but ‘priddhas an’ herrin’ and disclosures of personal data. This paper is manufactured using pulp taken
that’s practically all I ate all the way across the country, I knew it was from well managed, certified forests. All prices correct at time of going to press.
of cheese with an egg in the centre) 3) b (“I ate another apple pie and ice cream;
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and Spanish – there’s a Mexican version too) 2) d (also known as Georgian cheese Overseas subscriptions for 12 issues available on request.
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talking point.

Enough with the

bloomin’ flowers Spring is here, which
means chefs are using
flower petals to decorate
dishes again. Please don’t,
says writer Fliss Freeborn

F
ood stylists and Michelin-starred chefs: you those tiny blue ones are called… They’re edible in
can stop reading now. It’s the last page of the same way that plates made of potato starch
WHAT DO
the magazine. There’s nothing interesting are edible. Completely harmless to ingest, but why
YOU THINK?
here, promise, so flip over that back cover and have bother? Neither have much in the way of flavour,
Do you like to
yourself a lovely day. Fa-la-la-la-la-la. Off you pop. and unlike the potato-starch plates, edible
munch on a
I’d never usually be so blunt, but now The flowers can’t function as a vehicle for a pile
marigold or is it
Tweezer People have gone it means I can of chicken drumsticks at a barbecue.
like eating an old
admit to something they might find Edible flowers are also ludicrously
lady’s handbag?
deeply offensive. Because – and expensive, and if I’m paying £300
Tell us at info@
clutch your carnations, darlings – per kg for something that’s designed
deliciousmagazine.
I hate edible flowers and all they
“They’re to be eaten, you bet I want it to
[Link]
stand for. Each time a salad, a edible in the taste slightly more than ‘delicate’.
dessert or a poor sodding focaccia Ultimately, edible flowers can’t
appears from the service area
same way decide if they’re a garnish or an
hidden under a mound of blossoms, that plates ingredient, and they’re not very good
I feel the irritation rising. Edible at being either. Of course, you can
flowers are the epitome of style over
made of boil flower petals, distil their flavour
substance and therefore have no potato starch and make wonderful perfumed
place on my dinner plate.
Don’t get me wrong: there’s no
are edible. extracts: I love using rose flavouring
and orange blossom water. Likewise,
doubt edible flowers are pretty (I’m Harmless I drink camomile and hibiscus teas PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES. PORTRAIT: LUKE J ALBERT
prejudiced, not blind), but part of their
irksomeness is that they’re often
to ingest, – and where would jasmine tea be
without its, er, jasmine? But as we’ve
used as a crutch in presentation; as but why established, fresh flowers don’t
a substitute for arranging a dish in a
more thoughtful manner. It’s just lazy
bother?” taste of much, and when it comes to
garnishes, the best ones contribute
to plop a few flowers on top of a slice to the texture and flavour of the
of cheesecake and call it a day. And while overall dish, as well as looking lovely.
I’ll admit your £16 avocado toast may So, hold the honeysuckle: I’ve no wish to
photograph well with half of Kew Gardens chew on blooms – of any sort. I’d far rather
scattered across it, it’ll eat like the death-row have toasted flaked almonds on my salad,
meal of a goat that’s been to art school. Instagram a swirl of cream in my soup and a slice of
has a lot to answer for here, but I’ve only got 500 strawberry on my pudding (when in season,
words and don’t want my eyeballs to explode. naturally). Keep the flowers in the ground, where
Marigolds, pansies, nasturtiums and whatever I’ll appreciate them a lot more than on my lunch.

130 [Link]
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