Aesthetics and Wearability

Sharp Corners
• Sharp corners should be rounded.
• This is primarily for the comfort and ease of the wearer; sharp points on designs
will be uncomfortable on surrounding skin/fingers and will snag with clothing.

Band Shape (base)

These are our standard offers for the shape of the band.
Bails, Jump Rings, and Other Findings

***ALL PENDANTS SHOULD HAVE A BAIL AND JUMP RING UNLESS

OTHERWISE INDICATED**

In general, the style and size of the jump ring and bail should be based on the
following guide. (Note: this excluded special cases) excluding special cases: See
below).

Bails are based on three standard styles, and are matched to jump rings by the
corresponding letters. Exp: type "A" jump rings go with type "A" style bails.

Jump Ring Size Guide

Bail Size Guide

 Based on width of pendant, match ring size as
follows:

 Width: Less than 10mm

Size "D"

 Width: 10mm - 20mm

Size "C"

 Width: 20mm - 30mm

Size "B"
Jump ring and bail size
 Width: 30mm - 50mm

Size "A"

 Width: Greater than 50mm

Scale up Size "A" proportionally.

We have standard bails in 3 styles. Use your own

discretion when choosing a bail style.
Standard bail styles
Note: Bail style 2 should not be used at size D, due
to durability concerns.
Some designs may require special considerations for
bail placement or bail design, and may require going
off the standards

 Asymetric Designs: Consider the

placement of jumpring to avoid "off-balance"
pendants that hang uneven

 No Bail: Good solution for pendants

where a ring and bail would detract attention
Special cases/unique bails from the design. If using this style, ensure
that opening is at least 3mm wide for a chain
to fit (this does not apply if we are directly
attaching jump rings directly to the piece like

 this


Wide Landscape Designs: For very
wide designs, consider (a) Using larger than
normal jump rings that can be placed
behind the piece, or (b) a tube bail with a
3mm opening placed behind the piece.
Positioning for jump rings should be marked within
the model so it can be soldered in place correctly by
Including bail details in models the manufacturer.

To create a mark for the positioning of the jump

ring, scale the ring object down (to approximately
85% of the desired size) and subtract it from the
model with a "BooleanDifference" command in
Rhino.
Partial jump ring Make sure inner jump ring diameter is greater than
width of bail at its midpoint.
We can create pieces with just a bail attached
directly to the piece (with no jump ring).

Bail without jump ring The bail size should be the same as our standard
sizing guidelines, and the customer should be aware
that the bail will not be able to swing.
 Chains
Standard Chain Types
• We offer 6 standard chain types for pendants.

• If the Project Specs state that the piece includes a chain of this type, please include
the chain in the render.
• *If you have issues with matching the chain type exactly, that is OK. Upload the
renders and send the Design Lead a message to let them know the chain is not a
perfect match.*

Non-Standard Chains
• Non-standard chains are available for purchase by the customer. Unless specified
by the Design Lead, you will not need to include renders with a non-standard chain.

Cufflinks
What should be included?
Backing should be included in the renders, but not in the 3dm file. Our manufacturers have these
backings already and will assemble them to cufflink piece.
We offer 2 types of cufflink backings - Fixed and Rotating. You can find a type is listed in the
Project Details. You can find an image of those types here.
 Enamel
All areas with enamel should be flat, not curved.

Width of recessed enameled areas

 Recommended >0.5mm wide in the main section
 >0.35mm wide in all areas
 Enameled areas can be >0.35mm, but it is best if there is a >0.5mm section
for the enamel to be poured into that then flows into the 0.35mm sections

Enameling wall width

 >0.5mm recommended
 >0.35mm required

Depth of enameled areas

 0.4mm

Include undercut in enameled areas

 Include only if specifically requested in
design request. Otherwise, do not include.

Wall separating enamel from stone

settings
 Enamel areas must have a wall separating
them from stone settings
Finish Feasibility

Polished areas
 All polished areas should be raised

Textured areas
 Recessed from high polish areas
(protected from getting polished)

Height of raised elements relative to

the rim
 Raised elements must be at least the
height of the rim.

Raised designs within frame

 All raised design elements need to be
placed within a rim unless otherwise
specified.

Height of rims on bands

 >0.7mm
 Inscriptions
Fonts
 We use a selection of open source fonts for inscriptions.
 If no font is specified, please use Traditional.

Non-Standard Fonts or Images

 If the inscription uses a non-standard font or is an image, it should be
uploaded as an AI file.

Inscription positioning
 Our default is to use a laser for inscriptions in the following areas:
 Inside ring band
 Under ring face (signets)
 The entire design on a pendant is done with a laser.
 We never use a laser inscription in other areas than the above. E.g. no
inscription on outside of band, ring face, etc.
 Signet rings should have the inscription under the ring face, not inside the
band.

Inscriptions Inside a Ring Band

 Include in rendering but do not include in 3dm model.
 Inscriptions should not be placed on the bottom of the band unless
absolutely necessary. Having inscriptions here disallows us from
resizing the ring.

Minimum width of band for inscriptions

 Traditional/Modern font: >2.5mm required
 Script font or other script-like fonts (ex. Elvish): >3mm required,
>3.5mm recommended
 Milgrain
Larger beads and beadwork
• Include in 3dm file, as this will be cast into the piece.
• Must not hang off the edge. Need extra space on both
sides of beading

Fine milgrain that will be done by hand

• Milgrain that will be done by hand should never be
included in 3dm model. However, it should be included
in renderings.
Model must include a blank edge where the jeweler can apply
the milgrain manually. Blank edge should directly on the piece,
not a raised bar/edge.
• Edge must be >0.3mm wide, flat, and cannot have a
rounded edge.
• Area must be accessible for a 2mm wheel to roll on the
milgrain.
 Multiple Metal Designs
Multiple-Metal v.s. Plating (plating discontinued)
We draw a distinction between "multiple metal" designs and designs with plating.
Multiple Metal designs refer to pieces that contain multiple pieces in different metals.
These pieces must each be cast separately and soldered to the piece.
We are limited to maximum of 5 pieces per design.
Plating refers to designs made in 1 metal, that have plating selectively applied. We no
longer offer plating on designs.
Multiple Metal designs
Separate pieces in 3dm file
Any areas that will be cast separately from the rest of the piece should be separate in the
3dm model so they can be cast separately. We are limited to 5 pieces total.

Metal thickness
Any piece that will be cast separately should be at least 1mm thick.
*Does not apply to cases where we are casting the bezels separately.

Metal width
Any piece that will be cast separately must have all parts >0.5mm wide. Piece in the
image below is too small

Minimum size to cast a section of a piece separately

>3.5mm x >3.5mm recommended
>3mm x >3mm required
 Raised Elements
Space between raised design elements
>0.2mm recommended, >0.15mm required

Space between raised design elements and outer raised rim

>0.3mm recommended, >0.25mm required

Details on human figures and other sculptural design elements

Can be outside of our standard guidelines.
However, any key features should be >0.3mm.

Raised design element width

>0.3mm recommended, >0.25mm required
Walls can come to points, but cannot be extended thin walls
Rim wall height
0.3mm - 0.5mm

Rim wall width

>0.5mm recommended
>0.4mm required

Scales
If scales have separation between them
>0.3mm tall
>0.2mm gap between scales

If scales are overlapping

>0.3mm tall
Scales must clearly overlap
Fur and feathers
Not subject to our typical guidelines
for raised design elements

Overhangs
No part of the model can
overhang another section. Must
connect to base.

Gaps between teeth

>0.1mm

Raised design element depth to width ratio (does not include outer rims)
Roughly 1:1 ratio (some variance is OK)
 Height of raised elements
<0.5mm

Raised elements must be surrounded by a rim to protect from polishing

Recessed Elements

Depth of recessed areas

0.3mm - 0.5mm
Does not apply to sculptural designs

Space between recessed areas

>0.15mm required
Recessed area width
>0.3mm recommended, >0.25mm required

Distance from edge to recessed areas

>0.5mm (for polished pieces)

Recessed area depth to width ratio

Roughly 1:1 ratio (some variance is OK)

Tree bark / wood

>0.15mm
 Stone Settings
**For all melee in all setting styles**
Round diamond culets must be a minimum of 0.3mm from the finger rail.
0.5mm or more is ideal. Any other gemstone or shape must be a minimum of
0.5mm unless you have the exact depth of the stones on hand.

Stone clearance above ring rail Distance between gallery rails

0.5mm - 1mm >0.4mm

Cushion shaped stones with prong

Gallery rail thickness settings
>0.5mm Either use double prongs or include
gallery rail
Halo setting counts as having a gallery
rail and is acceptable

Prong diameter Shared prong diameter

5mm+ stone, recommended >1mm Add 0.1mm - 0.2mm to standard prong
prong diameter requirements
3-4mm stone, recommended >0.75mm
prong
1-2mm stone, recommended >0.5mm
prong
Always >0.5mm

Spacing between stones with shared Channel setting wall thickness

prongs Stone size <1.8mm: 0.5mm
>0.2mm Stone size 1.8-25mm: 0.65mm
Stone size >2.5mm: 0.8mm
Surprise gem distance to ring rail Space between channel or flush setting
>0.3mm and rim
>0.5mm

Space between stones being set in flush Space between stones in channel
or bezel settings settings
>0.3mm • Stones should be placed right next to
each other

Height of claw prongs Prongs in channel

>0.8mm This type of setting is possible. If it is
This is needed to give enough material done, shared prongs should be used
for setting whenever possible.

Thickness of corner prongs in center Height of center stone prongs

setting <1mm
>0.75mm

Height of accent stone prongs Prong setting distance from stones to

Must be at least .5mm tall from edge of piece
stone of table >0.2mm
Prongs overlapping stones
Prongs must overlap stones

Must *not* overlap by more than ⅓ prong diameter.

Band thickness for stone setting Pearl settings

Band thickness must be at least the Pearls <2mm: no post needed, will be
size of the stone table. glued.
*Note: Minimum band thickness of Pearls 2mm+ (including 2mm):
1.25mm still applies. *must* be set with a post. Include
Ex. To set a 2.5mm round diamond, post in 3dm file.
the band must be >2.5mm thick.

Pearl Posts
For pearls >5mm, post diameter should be ~.65mm.
Bezel setting Corners should be squared. Rounded OK if
Top of rim/wall should be flat and in line wall thick enough (see below)
with table of stone
Inner edge should be straight Outer edge can be rounded *if* bezel wall
is thick enough.

Adjacent Bezel settings Bezel setting “lip” above stone

Must have small separation between >0.4mm from table of the stone to
each outer wall the top of the bezel. That gives the
setting additional metal to push into
place.

Bezel setting angle Bezel setting interior

Bezels should be angled outward, not Interior should be as open as
inward possible, otherwise excess metal will
need to be removed manually during
setting

Bezel setting opening size Thickness of Bezel wall

Size of bezel opening should match For 1.5mm stones, bezel wall >.5mm
stone dimensions thick
For 2mm stone, bezel wall >.6-.7mm
thick
For 7mm stone, bezel wall > .8mm
thick
Minimum stone size
We cannot use stones smaller than 1mm
Cabochon stone setting restrictions
Cabochon stones cannot be flush set
Prong settings on Cabochon stones
Prongs should not touch or overlap the stone; all prongs should be placed *outside* the stone
seat.

Prongs should be flat on the inside Distance from culet to finger rail
>1mm required

Center stone prong settings must have stone supported from bottom
All center stone prong settings must include gallery rail or other support
underneath the stone

Stone edge (girdle) Accent stone and center stone prongs

Must not hang off the edge of Accent stones should not cut into
piece center stone prongs
 Text
Text on Signet/Family Crest Rings
• Must be included in the model as
raised/recessed elements.
• We cannot use inscription or
engraving as part of a design

Raised letter Raised letter

height width
>1mm >0.6mm
recommended
>0.3mm
required

Recessed Recessed letter

letter height width (total
>1mm width of letter -
for legibility)
>0.6mm
recommended
>0.3mm
required

Width of walls in raised text Width of recessed areas in lettering (width

>0.3mm of each part of the recessed area)
>0.3mm required

Spacing between letters (both raised and Spacing between interior portions of
recessed) letters (both raised and recessed, ex.
>0.25mm recommended between horizontal lines in “F”)
>0.2mm required Modern: >0.15mm
Traditional/Script: >0.2mm
 Thickness & Openings
Openings in design Width of loose design elements and cut-
>0.4mm outs (closely connected to other areas)
Openings can taper to less than Non-large/heavy piece
0.4mm, but the main part of the >0.8mm-1mm recommended
opening should be >0.4mm >0.6mm required (absolute
minimum)
*Note shank thickness for this type of
design must be 1.8mm-2mm*
Example 1: Width of shank cut-out
elements

Example 2: Width of gallery rail cut-outs Large/heavy piece

>1mm

Width of cutouts (ex. letters) Width of cut out areas in piece

>1.8mm recommended >0.7mm recommended
>1.5mm required >0.5mm required.
Band shank thickness Band shank thickness if top-heavy ring
>1.8-2mm recommended If the ring is top-heavy, shank thickness at
>1.25mm required (Absolute bottom and sides should be >1.8mm thick.
minimum. Should not be standard)

Thickness of main parts of engagement

Band width rings
>1.5mm >0.8mm

Areas joining center setting head to shank minimum thickness

>1mm required, >1.25mm recommended