Canyon

Rope Rescue
Testing Report
VERSION 1.0, 2021
 Canyon Rope Rescue Testing Report
Version: 1.0 , 2021

Author: Grant Prattley

Publisher: Over the Edge Rescue

[Link]

Contributors/Testers: Chris Whitehouse

© 2021. This work is licensed under a CC BY 4.0 license.

For the latest version and for referencing purposes use:

Prattley, Grant. Canyon Rescue Testing. Over the Edge Rescue, 2021.
[Link]

Disclaimer

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 2

This project was proudly supported with funding from:

New Zealand Land Search and Rescue Training Limited

LandSAR Training is wholly owned by New Zealand Land Search and
Rescue (NZ LandSAR) to deliver training across the search and rescue and
emergency management sectors. Our focus is on real world research-based
training solutions to meet a defined need. Talk to us about how we can
help you.
[Link]

This project was supported by:

New Zealand Canyoning Association

The NZ Canyoning Association is the national organising body for
recreational canyoning in New Zealand. NZ Canyoning Association mission
is to protect our canyons, raise the awareness of our canyoners and
grow the sport of canyoning in New Zealand safely. The NZ Canyoning
Association is a non-profit, incorporated society run by volunteers. The NZ
Canyoning Association operates Canyon Search and Rescue (CanyonSAR)
on behalf of NZ LandSAR.

[Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 3

Table of Contents
Introduction.......................................................................................................... 5
Methods and Materials........................................................................................ 6
Results................................................................................................................ 10
Discussion........................................................................................................... 17
Conclusions......................................................................................................... 21
References.......................................................................................................... 22
Disclaimer........................................................................................................... 22
Glossary of terms................................................................................................ 23
Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm........................................................................ 24
Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm............................................................... 115
Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord............................................................. 173
Appendix 4: Edelrid 25mm Tubular Webbing................................................... 204
Appendix 5: CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope.............................................................. 219

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 4

Introduction
In February 2019, a team of people from the NZ Canyoning Association got together for a weekend
to discuss setting up CanyonSAR for New Zealand (as a specialist discipline under New Zealand
Land SAR).
As part of this weekend, we discussed and practised rope rescue in the canyoning context with
training as a focus. Out of this discussion and practice came:
• The types of rope rescues we were likely to do?
• Who are the rescuers, their experience level and how many are likely to be on a team?
• The techniques we are likely to use, based on the types of rescue.
• The equipment used based on what canyoners have with them is flexible for all the techniques.
• Based on risk assessment in a canyon context, the critical rescue principles include the types of
rope rescues, the rescuers, techniques, and equipment.
In October 2019, we undertook some initial testing before rolling out Canyon Rescue courses
throughout New Zealand. After the courses, there were more questions and a process of filling in
the gaps of knowledge. Over the rest of 2019, 2020 and 2021, we undertook several more rounds
of testing to confirm further the suitability and define the edges of the system we were using.
Overall, 220 tests were undertaken with over 400m of rope and lots of devices destroyed.
We had funding supported by New Zealand Land Search and Rescue Training Limited and the New
Zealand Canyoning Association (NZCA) project support.

Objectives
The objectives of this testing were to:
• To confirm the combination of the current equipment and techniques used have sufficient
safety margin.
• To provide reference information for both rescuers and instructors to give confidence in the
systems used.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 5

Methods and Materials
Methods
General setup methods
• New rope, webbing and cord were used for the
testing.
• All mechanical devices tested were new. After each
test, inspected, and if not damaged, reused for the
next test.
• All knots, bends and hitches had hand tension with all
strands pulled tight.

Slow pull tests

• Each testing series records the slow pull tests set up
(see Appendix 1-5).
• The slow pull testing was in one location:
– Aspiring Safety, 1/6 Burdale Street, Riccarton,
Christchurch, New Zealand.
– [Link]
• Vertical testbed 1.6m Electronic Universal Testing
Machine, Model WDW-100
– Maximum Test Force 100kN
– Sample rate 60 per second
– Jinan Chuanbai Instrument Equipment Co Ltd

Friction testing
Each testing series records the friction tests set up (see
Appendix 1-5).
Testing was undertaken at Aspiring Safety vertical testbed
as detailed above.
Each test recorded:
• The First slip is thumb/finger holding.
• Limiting friction is max one gloved dominant hand
holding the rope.
• The glove used was Razor X 500 (pictured to the
right).

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 6

Drop testing
Each testing series records the drop tests set up (see Appendix 1-5).
The drop testing occurred at Over the Edge Rescue, 55 Mckenzie Street, Geraldine, New Zealand.
[Link]
• Testing used two Rock Exotica Load Cells.
– Fast mode: 500 samples/second,
– MBS: 36 kN, Max Reading: 20kN,
– Accuracy: +/- 2%,
– Certification: CE.
– [Link]
• Test mass contained in 2 x 70 litre PVC bags (Aspiring Safety) filled with five bags of 20kgs of
gravel. The test mass is secured into each bag and, so it couldn’t shift during testing. When
testing with a 200kg mass, the bags are attached at the base.
• The load release is a three-ring device (Access Gear, see below), resulting in a smooth drop.
• Both single rope and two rope systems were tested in lowering mode (load capture in behind
with lowering device in front) and raising mode (load capture only).
• In general, a drop test was a 200kg mass 1m drop on 3m of rope with the ideal of less than
1m additional travel and less than 12kN of force. Other drop tests were undertaken and are
detailed in Appendix 1-5.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 7

Materials
Kordas 10mm Dana rope
• Static elongation: 3.8% (150kgs) • Weight: 63 g/m
• Materials: Core/Sheath – Nylon/ Nylon • Breaking strength: 27kN
• Manufacturer: [Link] • Standards: EN 1891:1998, type A
PMI 10mm classic sport rope
• Static elongation: 2% (140kgs) • Weight: 66 g/m
• Materials: Core/Sheath – Nylon/ Nylon • Breaking strength: 27kN
• Manufacturer: PMI – [Link] • Standards: CI 1801 static rope
PMI 8mm accessory cord
• Materials: Core/Sheath – Nylon/Nylon • Breaking strength: 14.3kN
• Manufacturer: PMI – [Link] • Standards: EN 564 Accessory Cord
Edelrid 25mm tubular webbing
• Brand/Model: Edelrid/X-Tube • Weight: 43 g/m
• Materials: Nylon • Breaking strength: 20kN
• Manufacturer: [Link] • CE marking: 1019
Aspiring 16mm tubular webbing
• Brand/Model: Aspiring/Tubular webbing • Weight: 34 g/m
• Materials: Nylon • Breaking strength: 12.5kN
• Brand: Aspiring Safety – [Link] • Standards: Complies with EN 565
CT Dynamic 8.2mm Rope Sling (sewn)
• Elongation: 35 % • Weight: 46 g/m
• Materials: Nylon/Nylon • Breaking strength: 22kN
• Rope manufacturer: CT 8.1mm route rope • Sling tested to EN 566:2017
dynamic half/twin
• Standards Dynamic Rope: CE 1019, EN • Sling Manufacturer Aspiring Safety:
892:2012, UIAA [Link]
Petzl Basic
• Rope compatibility: 8 to 11 mm • Weight: 85 g
• Manufacturer: Petzl – [Link] • Certification(s): CE EN 567, UIAA
Petzl Micro Traxion
• Sheave type: sealed ball bearings • Weight: 85 g
• Sheave diameter: 25 mm • Breaking strength: 2 x 7,5 = 15 kN
• Working load: 2 x 2.5 = 5 kN • Certification(s): CE EN 567, UIAA
• Breaking strength as progress capture: 4 kN • Efficiency: 91 %
• Rope compatibility: 8 to 11 mm • Manufacturer: [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 8

Petzl Tibloc
• Rope compatibility: 8 to 11 mm • Weight: 35 g
• Manufacturer: [Link] • Certification(s): CE EN 567, UIAA
• Breaking strength as a rope grab: 4-7.6 kN (depending on rope type/diameter)
• Carabiner compatibility: all Petzl models except SPIRIT
Petzl Huit
• Material: aluminium • Weight: 100 g
• Breaking strength: 25kN • Manufacturer: [Link]
• Rope compatibility: 8 to 13mm • Working load limit: 100kg
Aspiring 8mm VT Prusik
• Breaking strength: 22kN • Material: Kevlar/Polyester sheath, Dyneema core
• Standards: EN 566:2017, ITCC 2.2.22 • Manufacturer: [Link]

BlueWater 7mm VT Prusik

• Breaking strength: 22.6kN Basket • Material: Technora sheath, Nylon core
• Manufacturer: [Link]

BlueWater 8mm VT Prusik

• Breaking strength: 29.5kN Basket • Material: Technora sheath, Nylon core
• Manufacturer: [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 9

Results
Kordas 10mm Dana
Slow pull tests (100mm/minute)
Items tested Av. kN # Tests Comment Appx. 1
Figure-eight on a bight knot 19.53 (72%) 5 Broke at the knot pg. 24
Alpine butterfly knot 18.19 (67%) 3 Broke at the knot pg. 27
Bowline knot 15.94 (59%) 3 Broke at the knot pg. 30
Figure-eight rethread bend 16.37 (60%) 5 Broke at the bend pg. 33
Bluewater 8mm VT 6-on-1 17.96 3 First slip 11.89kN, broke pg. 36
Prusik rope at figure-8 on a bight
(2) and kept on slipping (1)
Bluewater 8mm VT 5-on-1 10.82 3 First slip 9.27kN, kept on pg. 39
Prusik slipping
Bluewater 7mm VT 6-on-1 16.10 3 First slip 13.39kN, several pg. 42
Prusik major slips then stripped
sheath of 10mm rope
Petzl Shunt single rope 3.04 3 First slip 2.5kN, kept on pg. 45
slipping
Petzl Shunt double rope 6.89 3 Didn’t slip, ropes came out pg. 45
of device (spread open),
damaged sheath both
ropes 50% cam side.
Petzl Micro Traxion 5.76 3 Stripped sheath of rope pg. 50
Petzl Tibloc 7.64 3 Stripped sheath of rope pg. 53
Petzl Basic 6.35 3 Stripped sheath of rope pg. 56
Biner block 16.31 (60%) 3 Broke the rope at the 8mm pg. 59
rapide
Munter mule overhand 15.35 (57%) 3 Broke at the rope at the pg. 62
first cross of the Munter
Figure-8 device block v3 16.12 (60%) 3 Broke the rope at the 8mm pg. 65
rapide
Figure-8 device in front of 17.33 3 Broke(1) and bent(2) pg. 68
8mm VT Prusik 6-on-1 small eye of the Petzl Huit
figure-8 device

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 10

Friction tests (100mm/minute)
Limiting
Items tested First Slip Comment Appx. 1
friction
Figure-8 device canyon style low 0.31 0.61 1 test, max 1 gloved pg. 71
friction hand
Figure-8 device canyon style high 0.81 1.32 1 test, max 1 gloved
friction hand
Figure-8 device canyon style low 0.40 1.21 1 test, max 1 gloved
friction + redirect carabiner hand
Figure-8 device canyon style high 1.02 2.32 1 test, max 1 gloved
friction + redirect carabiner hand

Drop tests (200kg) single rope 1m drop 3m of rope

Items tested Av. kN # Tests Comment Appx. 1
Figure-8 device low friction in P = 3.96 3 Caught load, 20cm pg. 76
front of 8mm BlueWater 6-on-1 D = 6.25 slip at Figure-8, 2cm
VT Prusik T = 9.94 slip at Prusik, Prusik
releasable
8mm BlueWater 6-on-1 VT Prusik 8.02 3 Caught load, slipped pg. 79
43cm at Prusik, Prusik
fused
Figure-8 device low friction in P = 4.07 3 Caught load, 26cm pg. 82
front of 7mm BlueWater 6-on-1 D = 6.35 slip at Figure-8, 2cm
VT Prusik T = 10.41 slip at Prusik, Prusik
releasable
7mm BlueWater 6-on-1 VT Prusik 8.17 3 Caught load, slipped pg. 86
32cm at Prusik, Prusik
fused
8mm BlueWater 5-on-1 VT Prusik 6.95 3 Caught load, slipped pg. 89
83cm at Prusik, Prusik
fused
Petzl Micro Traxion 6.22 2 (#1) Caught load , pg. 92
slipped 99cm, stripped
sheath. (#2) Load hit
the ground, cut rope
Note: P = Prusik, D = Device, T = Total

Drop tests (200kg) single rope 1.5m drop 3m of rope

Items tested Av. kN # Tests Comment Appx. 1
8mm BlueWater 6-on-1 VT Prusik 8.45 3 Caught load, slipped pg. 94
20-78.5cm at Prusik,
Prusik fused

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 11

Drop tests (200kg) two ropes 1m drop 3m of rope
Items tested Av. kN # Tests Comment Appx. 1
Figure-8 device low friction in R1 = 5.91 3 R1: Caught load, 2cm slip pg. 97
front of 8mm BlueWater 6-on-1 R2 = 5.39 at Prusik, Prusik releasable,
VT Prusik T = 11.30 12cm slip at device.
R2: Caught load, 1cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik releasable,
12cm slip at device.
8mm BlueWater 6-on-1 VT R1 = 5.33 3 R1: Caught load, 2cm slip pg. 101
Prusik R2 = 5.17 at Prusik, Prusik releasable.
T = 10.50 R2: Caught load, 2cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik releasable.
7mm BlueWater 6-on-1 VT R1 = 5.62 3 R1: Caught load, 2.5cm slip pg. 104
Prusik R2 = 5.39 at Prusik, Prusik releasable.
T = 11.01 R2: Caught load, 2.5cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik releasable.
8mm BlueWater 5-on-1 VT R1 = 5.39 3 R1: Caught load, 2cm slip pg. 107
Prusik R2 = 5.55 at Prusik, Prusik fused.
T = 10.94 R2: Caught load, 2cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik fused.
Petzl Micro Traxion R1 = 6.00 1 R1: Caught load, 18.5cm pg. 110
R2 = 5.84 slip at Micro Traxion,
T = 11.84 stripped sheath, 20cm
bunching before device.
R2: Caught load, 18.5cm
slip at Micro Traxion,
stripped sheath, 20cm
bunching before device
Note: R1 = Rope 1, R2 = Rope 2, T = Total

Drop tests (200kg) single rope 0m drop 3m of rope

Items tested Av. kN # Tests Comment Appx. 1
8mm BlueWater 6-on-1 VT 2.77 3 Caught load. 0.5-1.0cm pg. 112
Prusik, start two ropes, 50% on slip. Prusik releasable.
tension on each rope, released
onto 1 rope
8mm BlueWater 6-on-1 VT 4.01 3 Caught load. 0.5-1.0cm pg. 112
Prusik, start two ropes, 100% slip. Prusik releasable.
on tension on 1 rope, released
onto other rope

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 12

PMI 10mm Classic Sport
Slow pull testing (100mm/minute)
Items tested Avg. kN # Tests Comment Appx. 2
Figure-8 on a bight knot 18.17 (67%) 3 Broke at the knot pg. 115
Alpine butterfly knot 19.43 (72%) 3 Broke at the knot pg. 118
Bowline knot 17.52 (65%) 3 Broke at the knot pg. 121
Figure-8 rethread bend 18.13 (67%) 3 Broke at the bend pg. 124
Aspiring 8mm VT 6-on-1 Prusik 17.70 3 First slip 12.89kN, pg. 127
slipped 5-6cm, glazed
sheath, broke fig-8 knot
Aspiring 8mm VT 5-on-1 Prusik 15.42 3 First slip 9.87kN, slipped pg. 130
and regripped, kept on
slipping
Petzl Shunt single rope 2.31 3 First slip 2.17kN, kept on pg. 133
slipping
Petzl Shunt double rope 5.99 1 Didn’t slip, both ropes pg. 133
came out of device as it
spread open, damaged
sheath both ropes 50%
on the cam side.
Petzl Micro Traxion 5.90 3 Stripped sheath of rope pg. 138
Petzl Tibloc 7.02 3 Stripped sheath of rope pg. 141
Petzl Basic ascender 6.00 3 Stripped rope sheath (2) pg. 144
and device broke (1)
Biner block 15.59 (58%) 3 Broke the rope at the pg. 147
8mm rapide

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 13

Friction tests
First Slip Limiting
Items tested Comment Appx. 2
kN friction kN
Munter / Italian 0.54 1.41 1 test, max 1 gloved pg. 150
hand
Double Munter / Italian 1.37 3.85 1 test, max 1 gloved
hand
Munter / Italian + redirect 0.69 1.29 1 test, max 1 gloved
carabiner hand
Double Munter / Italian + redirect 1.55 4.08 1 test, max 1 gloved
carabiner hand

Drop tests (200kg) Single Rope 1m drop 3m of rope

Items tested Av. kN # Tests Comment Appx. 2
Figure-8 device low friction in P = 4.80 3 Caught load, 16-23cm pg. 155
front of 8mm Aspiring 6-on-1 D = 6.23 slip at Figure-8, 1-2cm
Schwabisch VT Prusik T = 11.02 slip at Prusik, Prusik
releasable
8mm Aspiring 6-on-1 Schwabisch 10.30 3 Caught load, slipped pg. 158
VT Prusik 9-17cm at Prusik,
Prusik fused
8mm Aspiring 5-on-1 Schwabisch 8.69 3 Caught load, slipped pg. 161
VT Prusik 35.5-82cm at Prusik,
Prusik fused

Drop tests (200kg) Two Ropes 1m drop 3m of rope

#
Items tested Av. kN Comment Appx. 2
Tests
Figure-8 device low friction in R1 = 6.62 1 R1: Caught load, 1cm slip pg. 164
front of 8mm Aspiring 6-on-1 R2 = 5.90 at Prusik, Prusik releasable,
Schwabisch VT Prusik T = 12.52 13cm slip at device.
R2: Caught load, 1cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik releasable,
12.5cm slip at device.
8mm Aspiring 6-on-1 R1 = 6.93 3 R1: Caught load, 4.5cm slip pg. 167
Schwabisch VT Prusik R2 = 5.79 at Prusik, Prusik fused.
T = 12.72 R2: Caught load, 3cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik fused.
8mm Aspiring 5-on-1 R1 = 6.32 1 R1: Caught load, 10cm slip pg. 170
Schwabisch VT Prusik R2 = 6.30 at Prusik, Prusik fused.
T = 12.62 R2: Caught load, 10cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik fused.
Note: R1 = Rope 1, R2 = Rope 2, P = Prusik, D = Device, T = Total

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 14

PMI 8mm Accessory Cord
Slow pull tests (100mm/minute)
Items tested Average kN # Tests Comment Appx. 3
Loop: double fisherman’s bend 23.82 3 Broke at the bend pg. 173
Loop: figure-8 rethread bend 20.34 3 Broke at the 12mm pin
pg. 176
and bend
Wrap 3 pull 2 on a 30mm pin 35.30 3 Broke 1 strand at the
pg. 179
carabiner
Wrap 2 pull 2 on a 30mm pin 29.54 3 Broke 1 strand at the
pg. 182
carabiner
2-point anchor, overhand knot, 2 24.47 3 Broke at fixed overhand,
strands clipped, 1 carabiner top side 1 strand, leg pg. 185
without bend
2-point anchor floating focal, 18.36 3 Broke at limiting pg. 188
overhand limiting knots, 1 strand overhand, bottom side,
clipped, 1 carabiner leg without bend
2-point anchor floating focal, 29.61 3 Broke at limiting pg. 191
overhand limiting knots, 2 strand overhand, bottom and
clipped, 2 carabiners top, leg without bend

Drop tests (200kg)

Items tested Av. kN # Tests Comment Appx. 3
2-point anchor fixed focal, 2.79 3 Dropped onto the side pg. 194
overhand knot, 2 strands clipped, without bend
1 carabiner, 0cm drop 2.59 3 Dropped onto the side
with bend
2-point anchor floating focal, 5.45 3 Dropped onto the side pg. 199
overhand limiting knots, 1 strand without bend
clipped, 1 carabiner, 10cm drop 4.96 3 Dropped onto the side
with bend

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 15

Edelrid 25mm Tubular Webbing
Slow pull tests (100mm/minute)
Items tested Average kN # tests Comment Appx. 4
Loop: Tape/Overhand rethread 27.83 3 Broke at tape/overhand pg. 207
bend bend
Wrap 3 pull 2 on a 30mm pin 40.08 3 Broke 1 strand at the
pg. 210
carabiner
Wrap 2 pull 2 on a 30mm pin 37.93 3 Broke 1 strand at the pg. 213
carabiner
2-point anchor fixed focal, 36.23 3 Broke at overhand knot pg. 216
overhand knot, 2 strands clipped, single strand and steel
1 carabiner carabiner

CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope

Slow pull tests (100mm/minute)
Items tested Average kN # tests Comment Appx. 5
Loop: Sewn 22.47 3 Broke at stitching pg. 219
2-point anchor fixed focal, 30.24 3
Broke at fixed overhand,
overhand knot, 2 strands clipped, pg. 222
both strands, bottom leg
1 carabiner
2-point anchor floating focal, 18.07 3 Broke at limiting pg. 225
overhand limiting knots, 1 strand overhand knot, 1 strand,
clipped, 1 carabiner on the sewn leg
2-point anchor floating focal, 31.53 3 Broke at limiting pg. 228
overhand limiting knots, 2 strand overhand, both strands,
clipped, 2 carabiner on the sewn leg

Drop tests (200kg)

Items tested Av. kN # Tests Comment Appx. 1
2-point anchor fixed focal, 2.45 3 Dropped onto the side pg. 231
overhand knot, 2 strands clipped, without stitching
1 carabiner, 0cm drop 2.39 3 Dropped onto the side
with stitching
2-point anchor floating focal, 3.90 3 Dropped onto the side pg. 236
overhand limiting knots, 1 strand without stitching
clipped, 1 carabiner, 10cm drop 4.19 3 Dropped onto the side
with stitching

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 16

Discussion
Kordas 10mm Dana
Slow pull tests
Knots, bends and hitches:
• The knots used (figure-8 and alpine butterfly) were over 18kN and are suitable for canyon
rescue. The bowline was under 16kN is not suitable; however, it is not used.
• The figure-8 rethread bend had a lower breaking strength (16.5kN) than the figure-8 knot
(19.53kN). It is suitable for canyon rescue joining Kordas Dana rescue ropes as there is currently
no better alternative.

Rope grabs:
• The 8mm BlueWater VT Prusik 6-on-1 hitch slipped at 12kN and breaking either the rope or
kept on slipping at 18kN. The 8mm BlueWater VT Prusik 5-on-1 hitch slipped at 9kN and kept
on slipping at 11kN. The 7mm BlueWater VT Prusik 6-on-1 hitch slipped at 13kN and stripped
the sheath of the 10mm rope at 16kN. All variations are suitable for canyon rescue as a
progress capture and rope grab.
• The Petzl Shunt was tested as a pulley system rope grab for a single rope (3kN) and double rope
(7kN). The single rope Shunt is preferred as it slides without damaging the 10mm rope.
• The Petzl Basic (6kN) and Tibloc (7.5kN) were tested for use as a pulley system rope grab.
The Basic is not recommended as it broke half in 2 out of the 3 tests and held 1.5kN less (on
average) than the Tibloc. The Tibloc, where it used as a rope grab on half of a two rope system
(100kg), is suitable for rescue.
• The Petzl Micro Traxion (6kN) was tested as a pulley system load capture. Due to the potential
of dynamic loading for this part of the system, it was not suitable.

Canyon rope blocks:

• Standard canyoning rope blocking and releasable methods including the biner block (16kN),
Munter mule overhand (15kN) and the Figure-8 device block v3 (16kN) were tested. These
blocks could end up in the rescue system, so it was good to have some data to understand any
limitations. The figure-8 device block was changed (v3) so not to slip and instead broke the
rope.

Lowering device:
• The Figure-8 device (Petzl Huit) in Canyon mode friction, on an extension, with a 6-on-1 8mm
VT behind (rescue lowering mode) broke at 17kN, which is close to 18kN and the breaking
strength of the knots. Suitable for all rescue lowering situations.

Friction tests
• The Figure-8 device (Petzl Huit) in Canyon mode friction, on an extension, with a redirect, had
friction over 1kN for half a two rope system and could be converted to 2kN+. Therefore this
device and method had suitable friction for their use in rescue.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 17

Drop tests
1m drop on 3m of rope, 200kg
Drop tests were undertaken to represent two people plus equipment with a short section of rope
in play (1m drop on 3m of rope, 200kg).
• Single Rope: The average force for a 7/8mm BlueWater VT Prusik 5/6-on-1 Prusik was 10kN in
lowering mode (2cm slip) and 7-8kN in raising mode (83cm slip). All the VT tested are suitable
for a progress capture and have a high margin.
• Single Rope: The average force for a Petzl Micro Traxion was 6kN in raising mode (99cm slip or
cut the rope) and is not suitable as a progress capture as it stripped the sheath or cut the rope.
• Two Ropes: The average force for a 7/8mm BlueWater VT Prusik 5/6-on-1 Prusik was 5.5kN per
rope (11kN total) in lowering mode (2cm slip) and 5.25kN per rope (10.50kN total) in raising
mode. All the VT/Figure-8 devices tested are suitable and have a high margin.
• Note: A failure onto double ropes will increase the combined force on the anchor system as
there is less stretch. Use caution where systems share anchors (some or all) between both
ropes and are not independent.
• Two Ropes: The average force for a Petzl Micro Traxion was 6kN per rope (12kN total) in raising
mode (18.5cm slip, stripped sheath) and is not suitable as a progress capture.

0m drop on 3m of rope, 200kg

Drop tests were undertaken to represent two people plus equipment with ropes in normal
operating raising mode either with 50% on each rope (50/50) or 100% on one and 0% on the other
(100/0).
• The average force for an 8mm BlueWater VT Prusik 6-on-1 Prusik 50/50 was 2.77kN in raising
mode (.5-1cm slip). On average, about 1.5x the load.
• The average force for an 8mm BlueWater VT Prusik 6-on-1 Prusik 100/0 was 4.01kN in raising
mode (.5-1cm slip). On average, about 2x the load.

1.5m drop on 3m of rope, 200kg

Drop tests were undertaken to represent two people plus equipment with ropes a worst-case short
amount of rope in play (1.5m drop on 3m of rope, 200kg).
• The average force for an 8mm BlueWater VT Prusik 6-on-1 Prusik was 8.45kN in raising mode
(20-78.5cm slip).
• On average around 0.5kN more than the equivalent 1m drop on 3m of rope drop test and
around the same slip.
• The VT Prusik performed well, considering the extreme nature of the test.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 18

PMI 10mm Classic Sport
Slow pull tests
• The knots used (figure-8 and alpine butterfly) were over 18kN and are suitable for canyon
rescue. The bowline was under 18kN; however, it is not used by canyon rescue.
• The figure-8 rethread bend has a breaking strength over 18kN and is suitable for canyon rescue
for joining rescue ropes.
• The 8mm Aspiring VT Prusik 6-on-1 hitch slipped at 13kN and broke the rope at the figure-8
at 17.5kN. The 8mm BlueWater VT Prusik 5on1 hitch slipping at 10kN and kept on slipping at
15.5kN. All variations are suitable for canyon rescue as a progress capture and rope grab.
• The Petzl Shunt was tested as a pulley system rope grab for a single rope (2kN) and double rope
(6kN). The single rope Shunt is preferred as it slides without damaging the 10mm rope.
• The Petzl Basic (6kN) and Tibloc (7kN) were tested for use as a pulley system rope grab. The
Basic is not recommended as it broke half in 1 out of the 3 tests and held 1kN less (on average)
than the Tibloc.
• The Petzl Micro Traxion (6kN) was tested as a pulley system load capture. Due to the potential
of dynamic loading for this part of the system, it was not suitable.
• Standard canyoning rope blocking methods, including the biner block (15.5kN) were tested.
These may end up in the rescue system, so it was good to have some data to understand any
limitations.

Friction tests
The Munter/Italian hitch, on an extension, with a redirect, had friction over 1kN for half a two rope
system. Therefore this device and method had suitable friction for their use in rescue.

Drop tests
All drop tests were undertaken to represent two people plus equipment with a short section of
rope in play (1m drop on 3m of rope, 200kg).
• Single rope: The average force for a 8mm Aspiring VT Prusik 6on1 Prusik was 11kN in lowering
mode (2cm slip) and 10kN in raising mode (13.5cm slip). The average force for a 8mm Aspiring
VT Prusik 5on1 Prusik was 8.5kN in lowering mode (51.5cm slip). All the VT tests held, are
suitable and have a high margin.
• Note: The PMI rope has nearly half the stretch of the Kordas rope, so it has a higher (1-2kN)
max arrest force.
• Two ropes: The average force for an 8mm Aspiring VT Prusik 6on1 Prusik was 5.5kN per rope
(11kN total) in lowering mode (2cm slip) and 6.25kN per rope (12.5kN total) in raising mode
(4cm slip). The average force for an 8mm Aspiring VT Prusik 5on1 Prusik was 6.25kN per
rope (12.5kN total) in raising mode (10cm slip). All the VT tested are suitable and have a high
margin.
• Note: A failure onto double ropes will increase the combined force on the anchor system as
there is less stretch. Use caution where systems share anchors (some or all) between both
ropes and are not independent.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 19

PMI 8mm Accessory Cord
Slow pull tests
• The loops tested (figure-8 rethread and double fisherman’s) were over 20kN and suitable for
rescue use.
• The W3P2 and W2P2 tested well over 20kN (30-35kN) and are suitable for use for rescue.
• Floating focal point testing of a single strand is suitable for one side of a rescue system (18kN)
or as part of a multi-point anchor. With two strands clipped, on average, tested over 29kN and
are suitable for both sides of a rescue system.
• A two-point fixed focus anchor is, on average, over 24kN and is suitable for rescue.

Drop tests
• Drop testing a fixed focal by failing one side gave results of, on average, 2.5kN.
• Drop testing a floating focal by failing one side gave results of, on average, 5kN. The limiter
overhands do the job well of decreasing the impact force fall after a single anchor failure. Used
in the proper context, it is suitable for rescue.

Aspiring 25mm Tubular Tape

Slow pull tests
• The loop tested with a tape bend tested over 27kN and is suitable for rescue.
• The W3P2 and W2P2 tested well over 20kN (37-40kN) and is suitable for rescue.
• A two-point fixed focus anchor is well over 20kN (36kN) and is suitable for rescue.

CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope

Slow pull tests
• The sewn loop, on average, tested over 24kN and is suitable for rescue.
• A two-point fixed focus anchor, on average, tested over 30kN and is suitable for rescue.
• A two-point floating focus anchor with a single strand with limiter overhands, on average,
tested over 18kN and is suitable for rescue on one side of a two rope system.
• A two-point floating focus anchor with two strands with limiter overhands, on average, tested
over 30kN and is suitable for rescue on both sides of a two rope system.

Drop tests
• Drop testing a fixed focal by failing one side gave results of, on average, 2.5kN.
• Drop testing a floating focal by failing one side gave results of, on average, 4kN. The limiter
overhands do the job well of decreasing the impact force fall after a single anchor failure. Used
in the proper context, it is suitable for rescue.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 20

Conclusions
• We have tested canyoners’ equipment to understand what works and what doesn’t in the
rescue context.
• A greater understanding of the system and the safety margin in normal operating mode and
worst-case failure has been gained.
• Testing gives confidence that the systems used are going to work effectively. This confidence is
essential as there are lots of other things going on in an actual rescue. It frees up our thinking
up to concentrate on other vital elements.
• This testing has focused on parts of the system failing. However, the opposite action is the best
focus in the field – working together to prevent failure.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 21

References
1. Prattley, Grant. Let’s lighten the load. Over the Edge Rescue, 2021.
[Link]
2. Prattley, Grant. How much friction for your device? Over the Edge Rescue, 2020.
[Link]
3. Prattley, Grant. Floating anchor: but what if the anchor bows? Over the Edge Rescue, 2021.
[Link]
4. Prattley, Grant. Rope Rigging and Rescue Field Guide. Over the Edge Rescue. 3rd Edition, 2020.
5. PMI. [Link]
6. Edelrid. [Link]
7. Petzl. [Link]
8. Aspiring Safety. [Link]
9. Korda’s. [Link]
10. Esko Safety. [Link]
11. Climbing Technology. [Link]
12. BlueWater. [Link]
13. Access Gear. [Link]

Disclaimer
1. Information contained in this test report is not a complete instructional guide—intended to
supplement training from experienced and competent rescue instructors.
2. Use at your own risk. The publisher and author assume no responsibility or liability for any
accident, injury, loss or damage sustained while following any of the recommendations or
techniques described.
3. The publisher and author assume no responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions in the
content of this report. The information contained in this report is provided on an “as is” basis
with no guarantees of completeness, accuracy, usefulness or timeliness.
4. Testing was under controlled conditions with a limited set of equipment. Testing with different
equipment or operating in different conditions may result in different outcomes.
5. The views, information, or opinions expressed in the test report are solely those of the author
and do not necessarily represent those of other organisations or individuals listed.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 22

Glossary of terms
Bends: Where two pieces of rope or webbing are tied together usually at their ends, with both
playing an integral part. The load is pulling in line through the bend. An example is a double
fisherman’s bend.
Maximum Force (kN): Maximum amount of tensile stress that the material can withstand before
failure (rupture), such as breaking or permanent deformation. Tensile strength specifies the point
when a material goes from elastic to plastic deformation.
Extension: in the context of testing, stretching of a material in order to make it longer recorded
from a start to an end position.
Force (kN): In physics, force is the push or pull on an object with mass that causes it to change
velocity (to accelerate). Force represents as a vector, which means it has both magnitude and
direction. The SI unit of force is the newton (N).
Fused: Fused together (in the context of rope rescue testing) means when the two materials
permanently attach and combine through melting of one or both. If it is not releasable then it is
classed as fused.
Glazed: means overlaid or covered with a smooth, shiny coating. This usually occurs when one
material slides on top of another, melts and leaves a coating, for example, a Prusik sliding on a
rope.
Hitches: Where a rope is tied to an object where if the object is removed the hitch falls apart. An
example is the Italian/Munter hitch.
Knots: ‘If it’s not a bend or a hitch then it’s a knot’. In the widest sense a generic name for all types
of rope and cord entanglements but specifically where a connection is tied that is self-sustaining in
rope or webbing.
Limiting friction (kN): When the body overcomes the force of static friction, it reaches to maximum
value which is called limiting friction. After this, body starts moving and friction decreases. This
value of friction is then called kinetic friction.
Mass (kg): the quantity of matter in a body
Maximum Arrest Force (MAF) (kN): A term used for fall arrest systems. This means that for
a medium body weight of 100 kg, the maximum arrest force is 6 kN according to European
standardisation. Only certain components, or assembly of components, fulfill these conditions and
can be used where there is the risk of falling from height.
Slip: where one body on another overcomes the friction and slides unintentionally for a short
distance.
Static (rescue) loads (kg): Predominantly associated with the mass of the rescue itself, and as such
remain stationary and relatively constant over the duration of the rescue. Static loads may include
the mass of any ropes, carabiners, stretchers, people and other rescue elements so on. For the
practical purposes of testing and calculation of forces in a rescue system the following values have
been used based on the number of people plus equipment. A single person rescue load is a 100kg.
A two person rescue load is a 200kg.
Stripped: Remove all coverings (sheath) from the core.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 23

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Figure-8 on a bight knot
Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)

Test setup
• Tied a figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between a 12mm pin and rope grab

Results
Date # Max force (kN) % Comments
5/06/20 19* 19.87 73% Broke at knot
5/06/20 20 19.54 72% Broke at knot
5/06/20 21 19.28 71% Broke at knot
5/06/20 22 20.15 74% Broke at knot
5/06/20 23 18.82 69% Broke at knot
Average 19.53 72%
* Sample 5/06/20 #19 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 24

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Friday, 5 June 2020

Max Force (kN): 19.87
Product Name: Fig-8 oab
Batch #: 19
Material: Kordas Dana 10mm

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 25

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 26

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Alpine butterfly knot

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)

Test setup
• Alpine butterflies on both ends

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm pins

Results
Date # Max force (kN) % Comments
24/10/19 21* 18.11 67% Broke at one of the knots
24/10/19 22 17.19 64% Broke at one of the knots
15/02/21 20 19.27 71% Broke at the knot
Average 18.19 67%
* Sample 24/10/19 #21 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 27

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Thursday, 24 October 2019

Max Force (kN): 18.11
Product Name: Alpine Butterfly Knot
Batch #: 21
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 28

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 29

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Bowline knot
Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)

Test setup
• Bowlines on both ends

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm pins
Date # Max force (kN) % Comments
24/10/19 23* 15.53 58 Broke at one of the knots
24/10/19 24 16.35 61 Broke at one of the knots
15/02/21 19 18.30 68 Broke at the knot
Average 16.73 62
* Sample 24/10/19 #23 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 30

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Thursday, 24 October 2019

Max Force (kN): 15.53
Product Name: Bowline
Batch #: 23
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 31

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 32

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Figure-8 rethread bend

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)

Test setup
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between rope grabs

Results
Date # Max force (kN) % Comments
28/09/20 3* 16.18 59% Broke at the bend
28/09/20 4 15.92 58% Broke at the bend
28/09/20 5 16.48 60% Broke at the bend
28/09/20 6 16.35 60% Broke at the bend
28/09/20 7 16.91 62% Broke at the bend
Average 16.37 60%
* Sample 28/09/20 #3 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 33

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Monday, 28 September 2020

Max Force (kN): 16.18
Product Name: Fig-8 rethread bend
Batch #: 3
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 34

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 35

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

8mm BlueWater VT Prusik 6-on-1

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)
• BlueWater 8mm VT (29.5kN)

Test setup
• 8mm VT sewn
• 6-on-1 Schwabisch asymmetric Prusik
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm pins, 12mm steel carabiner and rope grab
Results
Date # First slip Max force Comments
(kN) (kN)
7/08/19 1 10.5 17.76 Slipped 17cm, glazed sheath, started to damage
sheath under the Prusik, broke fig-8 knot
7/08/19 2* 12.2 18.47 Slipped 10cm, glazed sheath, started to damage
sheath under the Prusik, broke fig-8 knot
23/02/21 13 12.98 17.65 Kept on slipping, did not break.
Average 11.89 17.96
* Sample 7/08/19 #2 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 36

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Wednesday, 7 August 2019

Max Force (kN): 18.47
Product Name: 8mm VT BW 6on1 Asymetric
Batch #: 2
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana

Force-Time Curve
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 37

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 38

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

8mm BlueWater VT Prusik 5-on-1

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)
• BlueWater 8mm VT (29.5kN)

Test setup
• 8mm VT sewn
• 5-on-1 Schwabisch asymmetric Prusik
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm pins
Results
Date # First slip (kN) Max force Comments
(kN)
12/11/19 1* 9.67 9.67 Kept on slipping
12/11/19 2 8.83 8.83 Kept on slipping
15/02/21 21 9.30 13.97 Kept on slipping
Average 9.27 10.82
* Sample 12/11/19 #1 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 39

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Tuesday, 12 November 2019

Max Force (kN): 9.67
Product Name: 5on1 8mm VT BW
Batch #: 1
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 40

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 41

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

7mm BlueWater VT Prusik 6-on-1

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)
• BlueWater 7mm VT (22.6kN)

Test setup
• 8mm VT sewn
• 6-on-1 Schwabisch asymmetric Prusik

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiner and rope grab
Results
Date # First slip Max force Comments
(kN) (kN)
23/02/21 14* 13.52 16.93 Several major slips then stripped sheath of 10mm
rope.
23/02/21 15 12.86 16.79 Several major slips then stripped sheath of 10mm
rope.
23/02/21 16 13.80 14.57 Kept on slipping then stripped sheath of 10mm
rope.
Average 13.39 16.10
* Sample 23/02/21 #14 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 42

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Tuesday, 23 February 2021

Max Force (kN): 16.93
Product Name: BW 6on1 7mm VT
Batch #: 14
Material: 10mm Korda's Dana

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 43

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 44

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Petzl Shunt
Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)
• Petzl Shunt

Test setup
• Single/Double rope
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm pin and 12mm steel carabiner
Results single rope
Date # First slip Max force Comments
(kN) (kN)
24/10/19 1* 2.50 3.13 Kept on slipping
24/10/19 2 2.50 3.33 Kept on slipping
10/08/20 3 2.61 2.65 Kept on slipping
Average 2.54 3.04
* Sample 24/10/19 #1 of the testing shown on the following pages.
Results double rope
Date # Max force Comments
(kN)
24/10/19 3* 6.94 Didn’t slip, both ropes came out of device as it spread open,
damaged sheath both ropes around 50% on the cam side.
11/03/21 6 6.62 Didn’t slip, both ropes came out of device as it spread open,
damaged sheath both ropes around 50% on the cam side.
9/04/21 1 7.11 Didn’t slip, both ropes came out of device as it spread open,
damaged sheath both ropes around 50% on the cam side.
Average 6.89
* Sample 24/10/19 #3 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 45

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Thursday, 24 October 2019

Max Force (kN): 3.13
Product Name: Petzl Shunt single rope
Batch #: 1
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 46

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 47

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Thursday, 24 October 2019

Max Force (kN): 6.94
Product Name: Petzl Shunt double rope
Batch #: 3
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 48

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 49

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Petzl Micro Traxion

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Kordas 10mm Dana (27kN)
• Petzl Micro Traxion

Test setup
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm pin and 12mm steel carabiner

Results
Date # Max force (kN) Comments
31/10/19 10* 5.80 Stripped sheath of rope
31/10/19 11 6.00 Stripped sheath of rope
11/02/21 10 5.49 Stripped sheath of rope
Average 5.76
* Sample 31/10/19 #10 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 50

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Thursday, 31 October 2019

Max Force (kN): 5.80
Product Name: Micro Traxion
Batch #: 10
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 51

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 52

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Petzl Tibloc
Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)
• Petzl Tibloc

Test setup
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm pin and 12mm steel carabiner

Results
Date # Max force (kN) Comments
31/10/19 6* 7.51 Stripped sheath of rope
31/10/19 7 7.03 Stripped sheath of rope
10/08/20 1 8.38 Stripped sheath of rope
Average 7.64
* Sample 31/10/19 #6 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 53

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Thursday, 31 October 2019

Max Force (kN): 7.51
Product Name: Tibloc
Batch #: 6
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 54

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 55

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Petzl Basic
Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)
• Petzl Basic

Test setup
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm pin and 12mm steel carabiner

Results
Date #Max force (kN) Comments
31/10/19 85.29 Device broke in half. Minor rope
damage. Had been used for previous
tests.
31/10/19 9* 6.85 Stripped sheath of rope
10/08/20 2 6.92 Device broke in half. Minor rope
damage. New device.
Average 6.35

* Sample 31/10/19 #9 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 56

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Thursday, 31 October 2019

Max Force (kN): 6.85
Product Name: Basic
Batch #: 9
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 57

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 58

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Biner block
Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)
• 12mm steel carabiner 50kN

Test setup
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end
• 8mm oval rapide
• Clove hitch on spine of 12mm steel carabiner

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm pin, 8mm rapide and 12mm steel carabiner

Results
Date # Max force (kN) % Comments
11/03/21 2* 15.21 56 Broke at the rope as it exited the clove
hitch threaded through the 8mm rapide
31/03/21 3 16.91 63 Broke at the rope as it exited the clove
hitch threaded through the 8mm rapide
31/03/21 4 16.80 62 Broke at the rope as it exited the clove
hitch threaded through the 8mm rapide
Average 16.31 60

* Sample 11/03/21 #2 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 59

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Thursday, 11 March 2021

Max Force (kN): 15.21
Product Name: Biner Block
Batch #: 2
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 60

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 61

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Munter mule overhand

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)
• CT Steel carabiner

Test setup
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end
• Munter mule overhand on the 12mm steel carabiner

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm pin and 12mm steel carabiner

Results
Date # Max force (kN) % Comments
31/10/19 12* 15.51 57% Broke at the rope at the first cross of
the Munter
31/10/19 13 15.87 59% Broke at the rope at the first cross of
the Munter
18/06/19 11 14.67 54% Broke at the rope at the first cross of
the Munter
Average 15.35 57%

* Sample 31/10/19 #12 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 62

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Thursday, 31 October 2019

Max Force (kN): 15.51
Product Name: Munter Mule Overhand
Batch #: 12
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 63

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 64

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Figure-8 device block (version 3)

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)
• Petzl Huit Figure-8

Test setup
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end
• 8mm oval rapide

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm pin and 12mm steel carabiner

Results
Date # Max force (kN) % Comments
31/03/21 5* 15.44 57 Broke at the rope as it exited the
figure-8 block threaded through the
8mm rapide
31/03/21 6 16.41 61 Broke at the rope as it exited the
figure-8 block threaded through the
8mm rapide
31/03/21 7 16.52 61 Broke at the rope as it exited the
figure-8 block threaded through the
8mm rapide
Average 16.12 60

* Sample 31/03/21 #5 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 65

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Wednesday, 31 March 2021

Max Force (kN): 15.44
Product Name: Fig-8 Block v3
Batch #: 5
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 66

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 67

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Figure-8 in front of 8mm VT Prusik 6-on-1

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)
• BlueWater 8mm VT (29.5kN)
• Petzl Huit (figure-8 device)

Test setup
• 8mm VT sewn
• 6-on-1 Schwabisch asymmetric Prusik
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end
• Extension sling 30cm (90cm 10mm dyneema sling - 22kN - tripled)

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 8mm rapides and rope grab

Results
Date # Max force Comments
(kN)
11/03/21 14 17.31 Bent small eye of the Petzl Huit figure-8
device.
11/03/21 15* 17.72 Broke small eye of the Petzl Huit figure-8
device.
9/4/21 2 16.97 Bent small eye of the Petzl Huit figure-8
device.
Average 17.33
* Sample 11/02/21 #15 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 68

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Thursday, 11 March 2021

Max Force (kN): 17.72
Product Name: 6on1 BW VT 8mm Fig-8 device in front
Batch #: 15
Material: 10mm Dana Kordas

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 69

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 70

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Figure-8 Canyon mode with redirect

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Kordas Dana (27kN)
• Petzl Huit figure-8 device

Test setup
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end, low/high friction settings
• Extension sling 30cm (60cm 10mm dyneema sling - 22kN - doubled)
• First slip is thumb and index finger holding the rope
• Limiting friction is max one gloved dominant hand holding the rope

Test parameters
• Slow Pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm pin and 12mm steel carabiners

Results
Date # Type First slip Limiting
kN friction kN
29/07/20 1 Canyon style low friction 0.31 0.61
29/07/20 2 Canyon style high friction 0.81 1.32
28/09/20 1 Canyon style low friction + redirect 0.4 1.21
28/09/20 2 Canyon style high friction + redirect 1.02 2.32

15friction
Low 16friction
High Low17
friction with High
18friction with
redirect carabiner redirect carabiner

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 71

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Wednesday, 29 July 2020

Max Force (kN): 0.61
Product Name: Fig-8 device canyon mode low friction
Batch #: 1
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 72

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Wednesday, 29 July 2020

Max Force (kN): 1.32
Product Name: Fig-8 device canyon mode high friction
Batch #: 2
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 73

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Monday, 28 September 2020

Max force (kN): 1.21
Product Name: Fig-8 Canyon Style Low friction + redirect
Batch #: 1
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 74

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Monday, 28 September 2020

Max Force (kN): 2.32
Product Name: Fig-8 Canyon Style High friction + redirect
Batch #: 2
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 75

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Figure-8 in front of 8mm VT Prusik 6-on-1 single rope

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)
• BlueWater 8mm VT (29.5kN)
• Petzl Huit
• Aspiring 16mm webbing (12.5kN)

Test setup
• 6-on-1 Schwabisch asymmetric Prusik
• Figure-8 device low friction on a 60cm extension
• Extension is a 60cm 16mm webbing tied with a tape bend
• Figure-8 knot on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• 1m drop on 3m of rope (3m measured from Prusik)
• 200kg mass
• Single rope
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiners

Results
Date # Prusik Device Max arrest Comments
(kN) (kN) force (kN)
9/08/19 3 3.4 6.18 9.58 Caught load, 16.5cm slip at
Figure-8 device, 1.5cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik releasable
9/08/19 4 3.1 6.22 9.32 Caught load, 23cm slip at
Figure-8 device, 2cm slip at
Prusik, Prusik releasable
8/06/20 1* 4.58 6.35 10.93 Caught load, 21cm slip at
Figure-8 device, 2cm slip at
2m 3m
Prusik, Prusik releasable 1.5
Average 3.69 6.25 9.94
* Sample 8/06/20 #1 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 76

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Monday, 8 June, 2020

Test #: 1
Product Name: 8mm 6on1 BW VT Prusik, single rope,
Fig-8 device on 60cm extension
Material: 10mm Korda's Dana
Test type: 1m drop 3m of rope, 200kg
Max arrest force (kN): 10.93kN (P = 4.58, D = 6.35)

Force-Time Curve
7

4
Force (kN)

0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0

-1
Time (sec)

Prusik (P) Device (D)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 77

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 78

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

8mm VT Prusik 6-on-1 drop single rope

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)
• BlueWater 8mm VT (29.5kN)

Test setup
• 8mm VT sewn
• 6-on-1 Schwabisch asymmetric Prusik
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• 1m drop on 3m of rope (3m measured from the Prusik)
• 200kg mass
• Single rope
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiners

Results
Date # Max arrest Comments
force (kN)
9/08/19 1 7.40 Caught load, 88.5cm slip at Prusik, Prusik
fused
3m
9/08/19 2 8.54 Caught load, 23cm slip at Prusik, Prusik
2m 2m
fused
8/06/20 2* 8.12 Caught load, 17cm slip at Prusik, Prusik
fused
Average 8.02
* Sample 8/06/20 #2 of the testing shown on the following pages.
2m 3m
1.5m
3m

6on1 VT

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 79

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Monday, 8 June, 2020

Test #: 2
Product Name: 8mm 6on1 BW VT Prusik, single rope
Material: 10mm Korda's Dana
Test type: 1m drop 3m of rope, 200kg
Max arrest force (kN): 8.12kN

Force -Time Curve

9

5
Force (kN)

0
0.00 0.50 1.00 1.50 2.00 2.50 3.00 3.50 4.00
-1
Time (sec)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 80

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 81

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Figure-8 in front of 7mm VT Prusik 6-on-1 single rope

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)
• BlueWater 7mm VT (22.6kN)
• Petzl Huit
• Aspiring 16mm webbing (12.5kN)

Test setup
• 6-on-1 Schwabisch asymmetric Prusik
• Figure-8 device low friction on a 60cm extension
• Extension is a 60cm 16mm webbing tied with a tape bend
• Figure-8 knot on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• 1m drop on 3m of rope (3m measured from Prusik)
• 200kg mass
• Single rope
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiners

Results
Date # Prusik Device Max Comments
(kN) (kN) arrest
force
(kN)
26/03/20 1* 3.76 6.14 9.90 Caught load, 2.5cm slip at Prusik,
slip at device not recorded,
Prusik releasable
26/03/20 2 3.78 6.44 10.22 Caught load, 2.5cm slip at
Prusik, 19cm slip at device,
Prusik releasable
2m 3m
9/06/20 1 4.66 6.46 11.12 Caught load, 2cm slip at Prusik,
1.5m
slip at device 33cm, Prusik
releasable
Average 4.07 6.35 10.41
* Sample 26/03/20 #1 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 82

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Thursday, 26 March, 2020

Test #: 1
Product Name: 6-on-1 7mm VT Prusik, single rope,
fig-8 device on a 60cm extension
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana
Test type: 1m drop 3m of rope, 200kg
Max arrest force (kN): 9.90kN (P = 3.76, D = 6.14)

Force-Time Curve
7

4
Force (kN)

0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0

-1
Time (sec)
Prusik (P) Device (D)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 83

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 84

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 85

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

7mm VT Prusik 6-on-1 single rope

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)
• BlueWater 8mm VT (22.6kN)

Test setup
• 7mm VT sewn
• 6-on-1 Schwabisch asymmetric Prusik
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• 1m drop on 3m of rope (3m measured from Prusik)
• 200kg mass
• Single rope
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiners

Results
Date # Impact Comments
force (kN)
27/11/19 1 8.32 Caught load, 19cm slip at Prusik, Prusik
fused
27/11/19 2 7.52 Caught load, 67cm slip at Prusik, Prusik
fused
9/06/20 2* 8.66 Caught load, 33cm slip at Prusik, Prusik
fused 3m

Average 8.17 2m 2m

* Sample 9/06/20 #2 of the testing shown on the following pages.

2m 3m
1.5m
3m

6on1 VT

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 86

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Tuesday, 9 June, 2020

Test #: 2
Product Name: 7mm 6on1 BW VT Prusik, single rope
Material: 10mm Korda's Dana
Test type: 1m drop 3m of rope, 200kg
Max arrest force (kN): 8.66kN

Force -Time Curve

9

5
Force (kN)

0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0
-1
Time (sec)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 87

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 88

 Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

8mm VT Prusik 5-on-1 single rope

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)
• BlueWater 8mm VT (29.5kN)

Test setup
• 8mm VT sewn
• 5-on-1 Schwabisch asymmetric Prusik
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• 1m drop on 3m of rope (3m measured from Prusik)
• 200kg mass
• Single rope
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiners

Results
Date # Impact Comments
force (kN)
13/11/19 1 6.58 Caught load, 106cm slip at Prusik, Prusik
fused
13/11/19 2 6.44 Caught load, 107cm slip at Prusik, Prusik
fused
8/06/20 3* 7.84 Caught load, 34.5cm slip at Prusik, Prusik
fused. 3m 3m

Average 6.95 2m 2m
2m
* Sample 8/06/20 #3 of the testing shown on the following pages.

2m 3m
1.5m
3m

6on1 VT 5on1 VT
5o

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 89

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Monday, 8 June, 2020

Test #: 3
Product Name: 8mm 5on1 BW VT Prusik, single rope
Material: 10mm Korda's Dana
Test type: 1m drop 3m of rope, 200kg
Max arrest force (kN): 7.84kN

Force -Time Curve

8

4
Force (kN)

0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0

-1
Time (sec)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 90

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 91

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Petzl Micro Traxion single rope

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)
• Petzl Micro Traxion

Test setup
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• 1m drop on 3m of rope (3m measured from the Micro Traxion)
• 200kg mass
• Single rope
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiners

Results
Date # Impact Comments
force (kN)
13/11/19 3* 6.38 Caught load, 99cm slip at Microtraxion,
Stripped sheath
13/11/19 4 6.05 Load hit the ground. Cut rope.
Average 6.22
* Sample 13/11/19 #3 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 92

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 93

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

8mm VT Prusik 6-on-1 single rope (factor 0.5)

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)
• BlueWater 8mm VT (29.5kN)

Test setup
• 8mm VT sewn
• 6-on-1 Schwabisch asymmetric Prusik
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• 1.5m drop on 3m of rope (3m measured from Prusik)
• 200kg mass
• Single rope
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiners

Results
Date # Max arrest Comments 3m

force (kN) 1.5m

26/08/21 1* 9.04 Caught load, 35cm slip at Prusik, Prusik

fused.
26/08/21 2 8.62 Caught load, 20cm slip at Prusik, Prusik
fused.
26/08/21 3 7.70 Caught load, 78.5cm slip at Prusik, Prusik
fused.
Average 8.45
* Sample 26/08/21 #1 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 94

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Thursday, 26 August, 2021

Test #: 1
Product Name: 8mm 6on1 BlueWater VT Prusik
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana
Test type: 1.5m drop 3m of rope, 200kg
Max arrest force (kN): 9.04kN

Force -Time Curve

10

6
Force (kN)

0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0
Time (sec)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 95

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 96

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Fig-8 device with 8mm VT Prusik 6-on-1 in front two ropes

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)
• BlueWater 8mm VT (29.5kN)
• Petzl Huit
• Aspiring 16mm webbing (12.5kN)

Test setup
• 6-on-1 Schwabisch asymmetric Prusik
• Figure-8 device low friction on a 60cm extension 16mm webbing (tape bend)
• Figure-8 knot on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• 1m drop on 3m of rope (3m measured from Prusik)
• 200kg mass
• Two ropes
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiners

Results
Date #
Rope 1 Rope 2 Total Comments
kN kN kN
21/07/20 1* 5.96 5.34 11.30 R1: Caught load, 2cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik releasable,
13cm slip at device.
R2: Caught load, 1cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik releasable,
13cm slip at device.
21/07/20 2 6.02 5.34 11.36 R1: Caught load, 1cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik releasable,
10cm slip at device.
R2: Caught load, 1.5cm slip
3m 2m 3m
at Prusik, Prusik releasable,
10.5cm slip at device.
21/07/20 3 5.74 5.5 11.24 R1: Caught load, 1cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik releasable,
12cm slip at device.
R2: Caught load, 1cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik releasable,
14.5cm slip at device.
Average 5.91 5.39 11.30
* Sample 21/07/20 #1 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 97

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Tuesday, 21 July, 2020

Test #: 1
Product Name: Fig-8 device in front of 6-on-1 8mm
BW VT Prusik, two rope
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana
Test type: 1m drop 3m of rope, 200kg
Max arrest force (kN): 11.30kN (R1 = 5.96, R2 = 5.34)

Force-Time Curve
6

3
Force (kN)

0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0

-1
Time (sec)

Rope 1 (R1) Rope 2 (R2)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 98

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 99

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 100

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

8mm VT Prusik 6-on-1 two ropes

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)
• BlueWater 8mm VT (29.5kN)

Test setup
• 6-on-1 Schwabisch asymmetric Prusik
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• 1m drop on 3m of rope (3m measured from Prusik)
• 200kg mass
• Double rope
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiners

Results
Date #
Rope 1 Rope 2 Total Comments
(kN) (kN) (kN)
28/07/20 1* 5.28 5.34 10.62 R1: Caught load, 2cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik releasable.
R2: Caught load, 3cm slip at
Prusik, Prusik releasable.
28/07/20 2 5.32 5.08 10.40 R1: Caught load, 2.5cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik releasable.
R2: Caught load, 2.5cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik releasable.
28/07/20 3 5.4 5.08 10.48 R1: Caught load, 1.5cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik releasable.
R2: Caught load, 2cm slip at
Prusik, Prusik releasable.
Average 5.33 5.17 10.50
3m 2m 3m
* Sample 28/07/20 #1 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 101

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Tuesday, 28 July, 2020

Test #: 1
Product Name: 6-on-1 8mm VT Prusik, two rope
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana
Test type: 1m drop 3m of rope, 200kg
Max arrest force (kN): 10.62kN (R1 = 5.28, R2 = 5.34)

Force-Time Curve
6

3
Force (kN)

0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0

-1
Time (sec)

Rope 1 (R1) Rope 2 (R2)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 102

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 103

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

7mm VT Prusik 6-on-1 two ropes

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)
• BlueWater 7mm VT (22.6kN)

Test setup
• 6-on-1 Schwabisch asymmetric Prusik
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• 1m drop on 3m of rope (3m measured from Prusik)
• 200kg mass
• Two ropes
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiners

Results
Date #
Rope 1 Rope 2 Total Comments
(kN) (kN) (kN)
28/03/20 1* 5.38 5.52 10.90 R1: Caught load, 2.5cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik releasable.
R2: Caught load, 3.5cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik releasable.
22/03/21 1 5.82 5.4 11.22 R1: Caught load, 3cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik releasable.
R2: Caught load, 2cm slip at
Prusik, Prusik releasable. 3m 2m 3m
22/03/21 2 5.66 5.26 10.92 R1: Caught load, 2cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik releasable.
R2: Caught load, 2cm slip at
Prusik, Prusik releasable.
Average 5.62 5.39 11.01

* Sample 28/03/20 #1 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 104

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Saturday, 28 March, 2020

Test #: 1
Product Name: 6-on-1 7mm VT Prusik, two rope,
Prusik on each rope
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana
Test type: 1m drop 3m of rope, 200kg
Max arrest force (kN): 10.90kN (R1 = 5.38, R2 = 5.52)

Force-Time Curve
6

3
Force (kN)

0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0

-1
Time (sec)

Rope 1 (R1) Rope 2 (R2)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 105

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 106

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

8mm VT Prusik 5-on-1 two ropes

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)
• BlueWater 8mm VT (29.5kN)

Test setup
• 8mm VT sewn
• 5-on-1 Schwabisch asymmetric Prusik
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• 1m drop on 3m of rope (3m measured from Prusik)
• 200kg mass
• Two rope
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiners

Results
Date # Rope 1 Rope 2 Total Comments
(kN) (kN) (kN)
18/04/21 1 5.52 5.6 11.12 R1: Caught load, 2cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik releasable.
R2: Caught load, 2cm slip at
Prusik, Prusik releasable.
22/03/21 3* 5.34 5.54 10.88 R1: Caught load, 2cm slip
3m 2m 3m
at Prusik, Prusik releasable.
R2: Caught load, 2cm slip at
Prusik, Prusik releasable.
22/03/21 4 5.32 5.5 10.82 R1: Caught load, 2cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik releasable.
R2: Caught load, 2cm slip at
Prusik, Prusik releasable.
Average 5.39 5.55 10.94

* Sample 22/03/21 #3 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 107

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Monday, 22 March 2021

Test #: 3
Product Name: 8mm 5on1 Blue Water VT Prusik,
two rope
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana
Test type: 1m drop 3m of rope, 200kg
Max Arrest Force (kN): 10.88kN (R1 = 5.34, R2 = 5.54)

Force-Time Curve
6

4
Force (kN)

0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0

Time (sec)

Rope 1 (R1) Rope 2 (R2)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 108

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 109

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Petzl Micro Traxion two ropes

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)
• Petzl Micro Traxion

Test setup
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• 1m drop on 3m of rope (3m measured from device)
• 200kg mass
• Two ropes
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiners

Results
Date # Rope 1 Rope 2 Total Comments
(kN) (kN) (kN)
13/11/19 5 6.00 5.84 11.84 Caught load, 99cm slip
at Microtraxion, stripped
sheath.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 110

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 111

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

8mm BW VT Prusik 6-on-1 0m drop on 3m rope

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Korda’s 10mm Dana (27kN)
• BlueWater 8mm VT (29.5kN)

Test setup
• 8mm VT sewn
• 6-on-1 Schwabisch asymmetric Prusik
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• 0m drop on 3m of rope (3m measured from Prusik)
• 200kg mass
• 50/50: Start two rope. 50% on tension on each rope. Released onto 1 rope.
• 100/0: Start two rope. 100% on tension on one rope. 0% on tension on the other rope.
Released from the 100% tension rope to the 0%.
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiners

Results 50/50
Date # Max arrest Comments
force (kN)
25/08/21 1 3.14 1cm slip. Prusik releasable.
25/08/21 2 2.56 0.5cm slip. Prusik releasable.
25/08/21 3 2.60 0.5cm slip. Prusik releasable.
Average 2.77
* Sample 25/08/21 #1 of the testing shown on the following pages.

Results 100/0
Date # Max arrest Comments
force (kN)
25/08/21 4 3.94 1.0cm slip. Prusik releasable.
25/08/21 5 3.74 1.0cm slip. Prusik releasable.
25/08/21 6 4.36 0.5cm slip. Prusik releasable.
Average 4.01
* Sample 25/08/21 #4 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 112

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Wednesday, 25 August, 2021

Test #: 1
Product Name: 8mm 6on1 BlueWater VT Prusik,
50/50: 50% on each rope
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana
Test type: 0m drop 3m of rope, 200kg
Max arrest force (kN): 3.14kN

Force -Time Curve

4

3
Force (kN)

0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0
Time (sec)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 113

Appendix 1: Korda’s Dana 10mm

Test Date: Wednesday, 25 August, 2021

Test #: 4
Product Name: 8mm 6on1 BluwWater VT Prusik,
100/0: 100% on one rope, 0% on the other
Material: 10mm Kordas Dana
Test type: 0m drop 3m of rope, 200kg
Max arrest force (kN): 3.94kN

Force -Time Curve

4

3
Force (kN)

0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0
Time (sec)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 114

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm
Figure-8 on a bight knot
Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• PMI 10mm Classic Sport (27kN)

Test setup
• Tied a figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between a 12mm pin and rope grab

Results
Date # Max force (kN) % Comments
17/07/20 9* 18.14 67 Broke at the knot
17/07/20 10 18.71 69 Broke at the knot
17/07/20 11 17.66 65 Broke at the knot
Average 18.17 67
* Sample 17/07/20 #9 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 115

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Test Date: Friday, 17 July 2020

Max Force (kN): 18.14
Product Name: Figure-8 on a bight
Batch #: 9
Material: 10mm PMI Classic Sport

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 116

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 117

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Alpine butterfly knot

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• PMI 10mm Classic Sport (27kN)

Test setup
• Tied an alpine butterfly on one end

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between a 12mm pin and rope grab

Results
Date # Max force (kN) % Comments
19/08/20 1* 18.25 68 Broke at the knot
19/08/20 2 20.35 75 Broke at the knot
19/08/20 3 19.7 73 Broke at the knot
Average 19.43 72
* Sample 19/08/20 #1 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 118

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Test Date: Wednesday, 19 August 2020

Max Force (kN): 18.25
Product Name: Alpine Butterfly
Batch #: 1
Material: 10mm PMI Classic Sport

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 119

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 120

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Bowline knot
Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• PMI 10mm Classic Sport (27kN)

Test setup
• Bowline and rope grab

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between a 12mm pin and rope grab

Results
Date # Max force (kN) % Comments
19/08/20 4* 17.32 64 Broke at the knot
19/08/20 5 17.00 63 Broke at the knot
19/08/20 6 18.24 68 Broke at the knot
Average 17.52 65
* Sample 19/08/20 #4 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 121

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Test Date: Wednesday, 19 August 2020

Max Force (kN): 17.32
Product Name: Bowline
Batch #: 4
Material: 10mm PMI Classic Sport

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 122

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 123

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Figure-8 rethread bend

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• PMI 10mm Classic Sport (27kN)

Test setup
• Rope grab on both ends with figure-8 rethread bend in the middle

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between rope grabs

Results
Date # Max force (kN) % Comments
16/11/20 4* 18.36 68 Broke at the bend
16/11/20 5 18.29 68 Broke at the bend
16/11/20 6 17.74 66 Broke at the bend
Average 18.13 67

* Sample 16/11/20 #4 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 124

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Test Date: Monday, 16 November 2020

Max Force (kN): 18.36
Product Name: Fig-8 rethread bend
Batch #: 4
Material: 10mm PMI Classic Sport

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 125

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 126

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

8mm Aspiring VT Prusik 6-on-1

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• PMI 10mm Classic Sport (27kN)
• Aspiring 8mm VT (20kN)

Test setup
• 8mm VT sewn
• 6-on-1 Schwabisch asymmetric Prusik
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end and rope grab on one end

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm pins
Results
Date # First slip Max force Comments
(kN) (kN)
7/08/19 3* 15.3 18.12 Slipped 6cm, glazed sheath, sheath under the
Prusik remained intact, fig-8 knot showed
damage
7/08/19 4 16 19.03 Slipped 5cm, glazed sheath, sheath under the
Prusik remained intact, broke fig-8 knot
11/03/21 13 7.37 15.95 Initial slip then regripped, kept on slipping
Average 12.89 17.70

* Sample 7/08/19 #3 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 127

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Test Date: Wednesday, 7 August 2019

Max Force (kN): 18.12
Product Name: 8mm VT BW 6on1 Asymetric
Batch #: 3
Material: 10mm PMI Classic Sport

Force-Time Curve
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 128

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 129

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

8mm Aspiring VT Prusik 5-on-1

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• PMI 10mm Classic Sport (27kN)
• Aspiring 8mm VT (20kN)

Test setup
• 8mm VT sewn
• 5-on-1 Schwabisch asymmetric Prusik
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm pins, 12mm steel carabiner and rope grab
Results
Date # First Max force Comments
slip kN (kN)
12/11/19 3* 10.2 18.55 Slipped and regripped, kept on slipping
12/11/19 4 11.1 17.96 Slipped and regripped, kept on slipping
11/03/21 12 8.31 9.76 Slipped and regripped, kept on slipping
Average 9.87 15.42

* Sample 12/11/19 #3 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 130

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Test Date: Tuesday, 12 November 2019

Max Force (kN): 18.55
Product Name: 5on1 8mm VT Aspiring
Batch #: 3
Material: 10mm PMI Ezi Bend

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 131

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 132

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Petzl Shunt
Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• PMI 10mm Classic Sport (27kN)
• Petzl Shunt

Test setup
• Single/Double rope
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm pins
Results single rope
Date # First slip Max force Comments
(kN) (kN)
24/10/19 4* 2.20 2.29 Kept on slipping
24/10/19 5 2.20 2.31 Kept on slipping
11/02/21 5 2.12 2.34 Kept on slipping
Average 2.17 2.31

* Sample 24/10/19 #4 of the testing shown on the following pages.

Results double rope

Date # Max force Comments
(kN)
24/10/19 6* 5.99 Didn’t slip, both ropes came out of device as it spread open,
damaged sheath both ropes around 50% on the cam side.

* Sample 24/10/19 #6 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 133

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Test Date: Thursday, 24 October 2019

Max Force (kN): 2.29
Product Name: Petzl Shunt single rope
Batch #: 4
Material: 10mm PMI Classic Sport

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 134

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 135

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Test Date: Thursday, 24 October 2019

Max Force (kN): 5.99
Product Name: Petzl Shunt double rope
Batch #: 6
Material: 10mm PMI Classic Sport

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 136

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 137

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Petzl Micro Traxion

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• PMI 10mm Classic Sport (27kN)
• Petzl Micro Traxion

Test setup
• Rope grab on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm pin and 12mm steel carabiner

Results
Date # Max force (kN) Comments
9/04/21 3 5.74 Stripped sheath of rope
9/04/21 4 5.67 Stripped sheath of rope
9/04/21 5* 6.29 Stripped sheath of rope
Average 5.90

* Sample 9/04/21 #5 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 138

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Test Date: Friday, 9 April 2021

Max Force (kN): 6.29
Product Name: Petzl Micro Traxion
Batch #: 5
Material: 10mm PMI Classic Sport

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 139

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 140

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Petzl Tibloc
Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• PMI 10mm Classic Sport (27kN)
• Petzl Tibloc

Test setup
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm pin and 12mm steel carabiner

Results
Date # Max force (kN) Comments
11/03/21 7 7.39 Stripped sheath
11/03/21 8 6.65 Stripped sheath
11/03/21 9* 7.48 Stripped sheath
Average 7.02

* Sample 11/03/21 #9 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 141

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Test Date: Thursday, 11 March 2021

Max Force (kN): 7.48
Product Name: Petzl Tibloc
Batch #: 9
Material: 10mm PMI Classic Sport

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 142

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 143

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Petzl Basic
Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• PMI 10mm Classic Sport static rope (27kN)
• Petzl Basic Ascender

Test setup
• Clipped in with steel carabiner

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm pin and rope grab
Results
Date # Max force Comments
(kN)
19/08/20 7* 5.90 Stripped sheath of the rope
19/08/20 8 6.22 Stripped sheath of the rope
19/08/20 9 5.89 Device broke in half. Minor rope damage.
Device had been used with minor wear.
Average 6.00

* Sample 19/08/20 #7 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 144

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Test Date: Wednesday, 19 August 2020

Max Force (kN): 5.9
Product Name: Petzl Basic
Batch #: 7
Material: 10mm PMI Classic Sport

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 145

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 146

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Biner block
Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• PMI 10mm Classic Sport (27kN)
• CT Snappy 12mm Steel (50kN)

Test setup
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end
• Rope threaded through 8mm oval rapide
• Clove hitch on spine of carabiner

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm pin and 12mm steel carabiner

Results
Date # Max force % Comments
(kN)
11/03/21 1* 16.80 62 Broke at the rope as it exited the clove
hitch threaded through the 8mm rapide
31/03/21 1 14.29 53 Broke at the rope as it exited the clove
hitch threaded through the 8mm rapide
31/03/21 2 15.67 58 Broke at the rope as it exited the clove
hitch threaded through the 8mm rapide
Average 15.59 58

* Sample 11/03/21 #1 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 147

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Test Date: Thursday, 11 March 2021

Max Force (kN): 16.8
Product Name: Biner Block
Batch #: 1
Material: 10mm PMI Classic Sport

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 148

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 149

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Italian / Munter hitch

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test
Materials
• PMI 10mm Classic Sport (27kN)

Test setup
• Figure-8 on a bight on load end
• First slip is thumb/finger holding
• Limiting friction is max one gloved dominant hand holding

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm pin and 12mm steel carabiner

Results
Date # Type First Slip (kN) Limiting friction (kN)
2/07/20 6 Munter / Italian 0.54 1.41
2/07/20 7 Double Munter / Italian 1.37 3.85
14/09/20 5 Munter / Italian + redirect 0.69 1.29
carabiner
14/09/20 6 Double Munter / Italian + 1.55 4.08
redirect carabiner

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 150

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Test Date: Thursday, 2 July 2020

Limiting Friction (kN): 1.41
Product Name: Single Munter One gloved hand
Batch #: 6
Material: 10mm PMI Sport Classic

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 151

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Test Date: Thursday, 2 July 2020

Limiting Friction (kN): 3.85
Product Name: Double Munter One gloved hand
Batch #: 7
Material: 10mm PMI Sport Classic

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 152

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Test Date: Monday, 14 September 2020

Limiting Friction (kN): 1.29
Product Name: Single Munter + Redirect Carabiner
Batch #: 5
Material: 10mm PMI maxwear rope

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Pratley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 153

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Test Date: Monday, 14 September 2020

Limiting Friction (kN): 4.08
Product Name: Double munter + redirect carabiner
Batch #: 6
Material: 10mm PMI maxwear rope

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Pratley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 154

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Figure-8 in front of 8mm VT Prusik 6-on-1

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• PMI 10mm Classic Sport (27kN)
• Aspiring 8mm VT (20kN)
• Petzl Huit figure-8 device
• Aspiring 16mm webbing (12.5kN)

Test setup
• 8mm VT sewn
• 6-on-1 Schwabisch asymmetric Prusik
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• 1m drop on 3m of rope (3m measured from Prusik)
• 200kg mass
• Single rope
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiners

Results
Date # Prusik Device Max arrest Comments
(kN) (kN) force (kN)
9/08/19 7 4.2 5.84 10.04 Caught load, 20cm slip at
Figure-8 device, 1cm slip at
Prusik, Prusik releasable
18/04/21 5* 4.99 6.52 11.51 Caught load, 23cm slip at
Figure-8 device, slip 2cm at
Prusik, Prusik releasable.
18/04/21 6 5.2 6.32 11.52 Caught load, 16cm slip at
Figure-8 device, slip 2cm at
Prusik, Prusik releasable.
Average 4.80 6.23 11.02 2m 3m
1.5m

* Sample 18/04/21 #5 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 155

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Test Date: Wednesday, 18 April, 2021

Test #: 5
Product Name: 8mm 6on1 Aspiring VT Prusik, single rope,
figure-8 device CM on 60cm extension
Material: 10mm PMI Classic Sport
Test type: 1m drop 3m of rope, 200kg
Max arrest force (kN): 11.51kN (P = 4.99, D = 6.52 )

Force-Time Curve
7

4
Force (kN)

0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0
Time (sec)

Prusik (P) Device (D)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 156

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 157

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

8mm VT Prusik 6-on-1

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• PMI 10mm Classic Sport (27kN)
• Aspiring 8mm VT (20kN)

Test setup
• 8mm VT sewn
• 6-on-1 Schwabisch asymmetric Prusik
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• 1m drop on 3m of rope (3m measured from Prusik)
• 200kg mass
• Single rope
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiners

Results
Date #Max Comments
arrest
force (kN)
9/08/19 5 10.10 Caught load, 14.5cm slip at Prusik, Prusik
fused
9/08/19 6 10.38 Caught load, 9cm slip at Prusik, Prusik fused
18/04/21 2* 10.42 Caught load, 17cm slip at Prusik, Prusik
3m
fused.
2m 2m
Average 10.30

* Sample 18/04/21 #2 of the testing shown on the following pages.

2m 3m
1.5m
3m

6on1 VT

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 158

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Test Date: Wednesday, 18 April, 2021

Test #: 2
Product Name: 8mm 6on1 Aspiring VT Prusik, single rope

Material: 10mm PMI Classic Sport

Test type: 1m drop 3m of rope, 200kg
Max arrest force (kN): 10.42kN

Force -Time Curve

11

10

7
Force (kN)

0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0
Time (sec)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 159

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 160

 Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

8mm Aspiring VT Prusik 5-on-1 single rope

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• PMI 10mm Classic Sport (27kN)
• Aspiring 8mm VT (20kN)

Test setup
• 8mm VT sewn
• 5-on-1 Schwabisch asymmetric Prusik
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• 1m drop on 3m of rope (3m measured from Prusik)
• 200kg mass
• Single rope
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiners

Results
Date #Max Comments
arrest
force (kN)
29/03/20 3* 9.68 Single rope. Caught load, 51cm slip at
Prusik, Prusik fused.
18/04/21 3 9.14 Single rope. Caught load, 35.5cm slip at
Prusik, Prusik fused. Start length 25 end
36cm diff 11cm 3m 3m

18/04/21 4 7.26 2m load, 82cm slip at

Single rope. Caught 2m

Prusik, Prusik fused. 2m

Average 8.69

* Sample 29/03/20 #3 of the testing shown on the following pages.

2m 3m
1.5m
3m

6on1 VT 5on1 VT
5o

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 161

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Test Date: Sunday, 29 March, 2020

Test #: 3
Product Name: 5-on-1 8mm VT Prusik, single rope
Material: 10mm PMI Classic Sport
Test type: 1m drop 3m of rope, 200kg
Max arrest force (kN): 9.68kN

Force-Time Curve
10

6
Force (kN)

0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0
-1
Time (sec)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 162

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 163

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Fig-8 device with 8mm VT Prusik 6-on-1 in front double rope

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• PMI 10mm Classic Sport (27kN)
• Aspiring 8mm VT (20kN)
• Petzl Huit
• Aspiring 16mm webbing (12.5kN)

Test setup
• 6-on-1 Schwabisch asymmetric Prusik
• Figure-8 device low friction on a 60cm extension 16mm webbing (tape bend)
• Figure-8 knot on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• 1m drop on 3m of rope (3m measured from Prusik)
• 200kg mass
• Double rope
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiners

Results
Date # Rope 1 Rope 2 Total Comments
(kN) (kN) (kN)
20/08/21 3 6.62 5.90 12.52 R1: Caught load, 1cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik releasable,
13cm slip at device.
R2: Caught load, 1cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik releasable,
12.5cm slip at device.
* Sample 20/08/21 #3 of the testing shown on the following pages.

3m 2m 3m

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 164

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Test Date: Friday, 20 August, 2021

Test #: 3
Product Name: Fig-8 device in front of 6-on-1 8mm VT
Prusik, two rope
Material: 10mm PMI Classic Sport
Test type: 1m drop 3m of rope, 200kg
Max arrest force (kN): 12.52kN (R1 = 6.62, R2 = 5.90)

Force-Time Curve
7

4
Force (kN)

0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0

-1
Time (sec)

Rope 1 (R1) Rope 2 (R2)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 165

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 166

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

8mm VT Prusik 6-on-1 Two Rope

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• PMI 10mm Classic Sport (27kN)
• Aspiring 8mm VT (20kN)

Test setup
• 8mm VT sewn
• 6-on-1 Schwabisch asymmetric Prusik
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• 1m drop on 3m of rope (3m measured from Prusik)
• 200kg mass
• Two rope
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiners

Results
Date #
Rope 1 Rope 2 Total Comments
(kN) (kN) (kN)
29/03/20 2* 6.80 5.98 12.78 R1: Caught load, 4.5cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik fused.
R2: Caught load, 3cm slip at
Prusik, Prusik fused.
20/08/21 1 6.36 6.20 12.56 R1: Caught load, 3cm slip at
Prusik, Prusik fused.
R2: Caught load, 3cm slip at
Prusik, Prusik fused.
20/08/21 2 7.62 5.20 12.82 R1: Caught load, 3cm slip at 3m 2m 3m
Prusik, Prusik fused.
R2: Caught load, 3cm slip at
Prusik, Prusik fused.
Average 6.93 5.79 12.72

* Sample 29/03/20 #2 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 167

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Test date: Sunday, 29 March, 2020

Test #: 2
Product name: 6-on-1 8mm VT Prusik, two rope,
Prusik on each rope
Material: 10mm PMI Classic Sport
Test type: 1m drop 3m of rope, 200kg
Max arrest force (kN): 12.78kN (R1 = 6.8, R2 = 5.98)

Force-Time Curve
7

4
Force (kN)

0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0

-1
Time (sec)

Rope 1 (R1) Rope 2 (R2)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 168

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 169

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

8mm VT Prusik 5-on-1 Double Rope

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• PMI 10mm Classic Sport (27kN)
• Aspiring 8mm VT (20kN)

Test setup
• 8mm VT sewn
• 5-on-1 Schwabisch asymmetric Prusik
• Figure-8 on a bight on one end

Test parameters
• 1m drop on 3m of rope (3m measured from Prusik)
• 200kg mass
• Double rope
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiners

Results
Date #
Rope 1 Rope 2 Total Comments
(kN) (kN) (kN)
29/03/20 1* 6.32 6.30 12.62 Two rope. R1: Caught load,
10cm slip at Prusik, Prusik
fused.
R2: Caught load, 10cm slip
at Prusik, Prusik fused.

* Sample 29/03/20 #1 of the testing shown on the following pages.

3m 2m 3m

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 170

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

Test date: Sunday, 29 March, 2020

Test #: 1
Product name: 5-on-1 8mm VT Prusik, two rope,
Prusik on each rope
Material: 10mm PMI Classic Sport
Test type: 1m drop 3m of rope, 200kg
Max arrest force (kN): 12.62kN (R1 = 6.32, R2 = 6.30)

Force-Time Curve
7

4
Force (kN)

0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0

-1
Time (sec)

Rope 1 (R1) Rope 2 (R2)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 171

Appendix 2: PMI Classic Sport 10mm

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 172

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

Loop – double fisherman’s bend 8mm
Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• PMI 8mm cord (14.3kN)

Test setup
• 8mm cord tied in a loop with a double fisherman’s bend

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm pins

Results
Date # Max force (kN) Comments
22/10/20 25* 24.60 Broke at the pin
22/10/20 26 22.43 Broke at the pin
22/10/20 27 24.44 Broke at the bend
Average 23.82
* Sample 22/10/20 #25 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 173

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

Test Date: Friday, October 23, 2020

Test Date: Thursday, 22 October, 2020
Peak Load (kN): 24.6
Max Force (kN): 24.6
Product Name: Double Fishermans
Product Name: Double Fisherman's Loop
Batch #: 25
Batch #: 25
Material: 8mm PMi Cord
Material: 8mm PMI cord

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Testedby:
Tested by: Grant RhodeS
Shane Prattley

Signed:
Signed:

Machine
Machine has ahas a current
current calibration
calibration certificate.
certificate. [Link]
[Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 174

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 175

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

Loop – figure-8 rethread bend 8mm

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• PMI 8mm cord (14.3kN)

Test setup
• 8mm cord tied in a loop with a figure-8 rethread bend

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm pins

Results
Date # Max force (kN) Comments
16/11/20 10* 20.68 Broke at the bend
16/11/20 11 19.91 Broke at the bend
16/11/20 12 20.43 Broke at the bend
Average 20.34
* Sample 16/11/20 #10 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 176

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

Test Date: Monday, 16 November 2020

Max Force (kN): 20.68
Product Name: Fig-8 rethread bend loop
Batch #: 10
Material: 8mm PMI Accessory Cord

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 177

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 178

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

Wrap 3 Pull 2, 8mm cord

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• PMI 8mm cord (14.3kN)

Test setup
• 8mm cord tied as a wrap 3 pull 2 on a 30mm pin
• 8mm cord tied in a loop with a double fisherman’s bend

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 30mm pin and a steel carabiner

Results
Date # Max force (kN) Comments
16/11/20 17* 36.59 Broke 1 strand at the carabiner
16/11/20 18 35.62 Broke 1 strand at the carabiner
16/11/20 19 33.68 Broke 1 strand at the carabiner
Average 35.30
* Sample 16/11/20 #17 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 179

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

Test Date: Monday, 16 November 2020

Max Force (kN): 36.59
Product Name: W3P2 double fisherman's
Batch #: 17
Material: 8mm PMI Accessory Cord

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 180

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 181

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

Wrap 2 Pull 2, 8mm cord

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• PMI 8mm cord (14.3kN)

Test setup
• 8mm cord tied as a wrap 2 pull 2 on a 30mm pin
• 8mm cord tied in a loop with a double fisherman’s bend

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 30mm pin and a steel carabiner

Results
Date # Max force (kN) Comments
16/11/20 21* 28.58 Broke 1 strand at the carabiner
16/11/20 22 29.10 Broke 1 strand at the carabiner
16/11/20 23 30.93 Broke 1 strand at the carabiner
Average 29.54
* Sample 16/11/20 #21 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 182

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

Test Date: Monday, 16 November 2020

Max Force (kN): 28.58
Product Name: W2P2 double fisherman's
Batch #: 21
Material: 8mm PMI Accessory Cord

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 183

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 184

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

2-point anchor fixed focal, overhand knot, 8mm cord

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• PMI 8mm cord (14.3kN)

Test setup
• Focal point tied with an overhand knot
• 8mm cord tied in a loop with a double fisherman’s bend
• Double strand anchor legs

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiner attached 10mm rapides the outside holes of a medium
sized rigging plate

Results
Date # Max force (kN) Comments
22/10/20 7* 25.73 Broke at fixed overhand, top side 1
strand, leg without bend
22/10/20 8 23.45 Broke at fixed overhand, top side 1
strand, leg without bend
22/10/20 9 24.24 Broke at fixed overhand, top side 1
strand, leg without bend
Average 24.47
* Sample 22/10/20 #7 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 185

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

Test Date: Thursday, 22 October, 2020

Max Force (kN): 25.73
Product Name: 2pt fixed anchor overhand
Batch #: 7
Material: 8mm PMI cord

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 186

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 187

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

2-point anchor, floating focal, 1 strand, 1 carabiner

Side to Side Tests Drop Test Slow Pull Test

Materials
• PMI 8mm nylon accessory cord

Test setup
• Loops joined with a double fisherman’s bend in cord.
• Tied two overhand limiting knots at 20cm apart..

Test parameters
• 2-point anchor attached to the outside holes of a 5 hole rigging plate.
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiner and 10mm rapides.
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute.

Results
Date # Breaking Comments
force (kN)
22/10/20 10* 18.32 Broke at limiting overhand, bottom side, leg without bend
22/10/20 11 18.45 Broke at limiting overhand, bottom side, leg without bend
22/10/20 12 18.30 Broke at limiting overhand, bottom side, leg without bend
Average 18.36

* Sample 22/10/20 #10 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 188

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

Test Date: Thursday, 22 October, 2020

Break Force (kN): 18.32
Product Name: 2pt anchor floating single strand
Batch #: 10
Material: 8mm PMI cord

Graph Area

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 189

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 190

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

2-point anchor, floating focal, 2 strands, 2 carabiner

Side to Side Tests Drop Test Slow Pull Test

Materials
• PMI 8mm nylon accessory cord

Test setup
• Loops joined with a double fisherman’s bend in cord.
• Tied two overhand limiting knots at 20cm apart..

Test parameters
• 2-point anchor attached to the outside holes of a 5 hole rigging plate.
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiners and 10mm rapides.
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute.

Results
Date # Breaking Comments
force (kN)
22/10/20 13* 27.96 Broke at limiting overhand, bottom and top, leg without bend
22/10/20 14 30.74 Broke at limiting overhand, bottom and top, leg without bend
22/10/20 15 30.14 Broke at limiting overhand, bottom and top, leg without bend
Average 29.61
* Sample 22/10/20 #13 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 191

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

Test Date: Thursday, 22 October, 2020

Break Force (kN): 27.96
Product Name: 2pt anchor floating 2 strand 2 biners
Batch #: 13
Material: 8mm PMI cord

Graph Area

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 192

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 193

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

Fixed focal, 1 carabiner, 2 strands clipped, 90cm sling

Side to Side Tests Drop Test Slow Pull Test

Materials
• PMI 8mm nylon cord

Test setup
• Loops joined with double fisherman’s bend in cord.
• Tied overhand knot at focal point.
• 200kg mass (approx 1.96kN).
• 0cm drop.

Test parameters
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiners.
• Dropped on the side of the bend and side without the bend.
• Ext. = Extension of the RHS from start length with the load in place pre-drop to finish length
post-drop with the load still hanging, including the leg and loop.

Results – side with bend

Date # Start RHS End RHS Ext. RHS Predrop Predrop Post drop Diff. RHS
(cm) (cm) (cm) LHS (kN) RHS (kN) RHS (kN) (kN)
16/10/20 7* 30.50 33.50 3.00 1.00 0.86 2.58 1.72
16/10/20 8 30.50 34.50 4.00 1.00 0.86 2.62 1.76
16/10/20 9 32.00 36.00 4.00 0.94 0.94 2.58 1.64
Average 3.67 2.59 1.71
* Sample #7 of the testing shown on the following 2 pages.

Results – side without bend

Date # Start RHS End RHS Ext. RHS Predrop Predrop Post drop Diff. RHS
(cm) (cm) (cm) LHS (kN) RHS (kN) RHS (kN) (kN)
3/12/20 7* 32.00 34.50 2.50 0.98 1.10 2.90 1.80
3/12/20 8 32.00 34.00 2.00 1.00 1.06 2.64 1.58
3/12/20 9 32.00 34.00 2.00 1.04 1.06 2.82 1.76
Average 2.17 2.79 1.71
* Sample 3/12/20 #7 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 194

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

Test Date: Friday, 16 October, 2020

Test #: 7
Product Name: 2-point fixed anchor, overhand knot, double
fisherman's bend, 90cm sling
Material: 8mm PMI cord
Test type: Drop 0cm, side with bend, 200kg
Max arrest force (kN): 2.58kN

Force -Time Curve

3

2.5

2
Force (kN)

1.5

0.5

0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0
Time (sec)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 195

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 196

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

Test Date: Thursday, 3 December, 2020

Test #: 7
Product Name: 2-point fixed anchor, overhand knot, double
fisherman's bend, 90cm sling
Material: 8mm PMI cord
Test type: Drop 0cm, side without bend, 200kg
Max arrest force (kN): 2.90kN

Force -Time Curve

3.5

2.5

2
Force (kN)

1.5

0.5

0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0
Time (sec)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 197

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 198

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

2-point, floating focal, 1 carabiner, 1 strand clipped

Side to Side Tests Drop Test Slow Pull Test

Materials
• PMI 8mm nylon cord

Test setup
• 90cm sling
• Loops joined with double fisherman’s bend in cord.
• Tied two overhand limiting knots at 20cm apart.
• 200kg mass (approx 1.96kN).
• 10cm drop.

Test parameters
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiners.
• Dropped on the side of the bend and side without the bend.
• Ext. = Extension of the RHS from start length with the load in place pre-drop to finish length
post-drop with the load still hanging, including the leg and loop.

Results – side with bend

Date # Start RHS End RHS Ext. RHS Predrop Predrop Post drop Diff. RHS
(cm) (cm) (cm) LHS (kN) RHS (kN) RHS (kN) (kN)
20/10/20 10* 41.00 62.00 21.00 1.06 0.88 4.40 3.52
20/10/20 11 42.00 64.00 22.00 1.12 0.84 5.24 4.40
20/10/20 12 42.00 63.00 21.00 1.08 0.86 5.24 4.38
Average 21.33 4.96 4.10
* Sample 20/10/20 #10 of the testing shown on the following pages.

Results – side without bend

Date # Start RHS End RHS Ext. RHS Predrop Predrop Post drop Diff. RHS
(cm) (cm) (cm) LHS (kN) RHS (kN) RHS (kN) (kN)
1/11/20 1 37.00 53.00 16.00 0.96 0.98 5.96 4.98
1/11/20 2* 38.00 55.00 17.00 0.94 0.96 5.76 4.80
1/11/20 3 39.00 55.00 16.00 0.94 0.94 4.64 3.70
Average 16.33 5.45 4.49
* Sample 1/11/20 #2 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 199

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

Test Date: Tuesday, 20 October, 2020

Test #: 10
Product Name: 2-point floating, 1 strand,1 biner,
overhand limiting knots, d. fisherman's
Material: 8mm PMI cord
Test type: Drop 10cm, fail onto bend side, 200kg
Max arrest force (kN): 4.40kN

Force -Time Curve

5

4.5

3.5

3
Force (kN)

2.5

1.5

0.5

0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0
-0.5
Time (sec)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 200

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 201

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

Test Date: Sunday, 1 November, 2020

Test #: 2
Product Name: 2-point floating, 1 strand, 1 biner, o/h
limiting knots, d. fish. bend, 90cm sling
Material: 8mm PMI cord
Test type: Drop 10cm, side without bend, 200kg
Max arrest force (kN): 5.76kN

Force -Time Curve

7

4
Force (kN)

0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0

-1
Time (sec)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 202

Appendix 3: PMI 8mm Accessory Cord

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 203

Appendix 4: Edelrid 25mm Tubular Webbing

Appendix 4: Edelrid 25mm Tubular Webbing

Single strand: Overhand on a bight
Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Edelrid tubular webbing 25mm (20kN)

Test setup
• 25mm webbing tied with an overhand on a bight knot

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm pins

Results
Date # Breaking Comments
strength (kN)
28/8/19 1* 12.11 Broke at overhand
28/8/19 2 11.14 Broke at overhand
28/8/19 3 11.77 Broke at overhand
Average 11.67

* Sample 20/08/19 #1 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 204

Appendix 4: Edelrid 25mm Tubular Webbing

Test Date: Wednesday, 28 August, 2019

Peak Load (kN): 12.11
Product Name: Overhand on a bight 1 strand
Batch #: 1
Material: Edelrid 25mm webbing

Graph Area

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 205

Appendix 4: Edelrid 25mm Tubular Webbing

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 206

Appendix 4: Edelrid 25mm Tubular Webbing

Loop: Tape bend

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Edelrid 25mm tubular webbing (20kN)

Test setup
• 25mm webbing tied into a sling with a Tape bend

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm pins

Results
Date # Breaking Comments
strength (kN)
20/08/19 13* 28.34 Broke at tape/overhand bend
20/08/19 14 27.44 Broke at tape/overhand bend
20/08/19 15 27.71 Broke at tape/overhand bend
Average 27.83

* Sample 20/08/19 #13 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 207

Appendix 4: Edelrid 25mm Tubular Webbing

Test Date: Tuesday, 20 August 2019

Max Force (kN): 28.34
Product Name: Loop - Tape bend
Batch #: 13
Material: 25mm Edelrid Webbing

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 208

Appendix 4: Edelrid 25mm Tubular Webbing

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 209

Appendix 4: Edelrid 25mm Tubular Webbing

Wrap 3 Pull 2, 25mm webbing

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Edelrid 25mm X tube (20kN) webbing

Test setup
• 25mm webbing tied as a wrap 3 pull 2 on a 30mm pin
• 25mm webbing tied in a loop with a tape/overhand rethread bend

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 30mm pin and a steel carabiner

Results
Date # Max force (kN) Comments
16/11/20 24* 46.36 Broke 1 strand at the carabiner
16/11/20 25 39.51 Broke 1 strand at the carabiner
16/11/20 26 34.37 Broke 1 strand at the carabiner
Average 40.08
* Sample 16/11/20 #24 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 210

Appendix 4: Edelrid 25mm Tubular Webbing

Test Date: Monday, 16 November 2020

Max Force (kN): 46.36
Product Name: W3P2 tape bend
Batch #: 24
Material: 25mm Edelrid Webbing

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 211

Appendix 4: Edelrid 25mm Tubular Webbing

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 212

Appendix 4: Edelrid 25mm Tubular Webbing

Wrap 2 Pull 2, 25mm webbing

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Edelrid 25mm X tube (20kN) webbing

Test setup
• 25mm webbing tied as a wrap 2 pull 2 on a 30mm pin
• 25mm webbing tied in a loop with a tape/overhand rethread bend

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 30mm pin and a steel carabiner

Results
Date # Max force (kN) Comments
16/11/20 27* 37.39 Broke 1 strand at the carabiner
16/11/20 28 38.46 Broke 1 strand at the carabiner
16/11/20 29 37.94 Broke 1 strand at the carabiner
Average 37.93
* Sample 16/11/20 #27* of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 213

Appendix 4: Edelrid 25mm Tubular Webbing

Test Date: Monday, 16 November 2020

Max Force (kN): 37.79
Product Name: W2P2 tape bend
Batch #: 27
Material: 25mm Edelrid Webbing

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 214

Appendix 4: Edelrid 25mm Tubular Webbing

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 215

Appendix 4: Edelrid 25mm Tubular Webbing

2-point anchor fixed focal, overhand knot, 25mm webbing

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• Edelrid 25mm X tube (20kN) webbing

Test setup
• Focal point tied with an overhand knot
• 25mm webbing tied in a loop with a tape/overhand rethread bend
• Double strand anchor legs

Test parameters
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiner attached 10mm rapides the outside holes of a medium
sized rigging plate

Results
Date # Max force (kN) Comments
20/08/19 32 34.89 Broke 12mm steel carabiner
20/08/19 33*37.46 Broke at fixed overhand, 1 strand, leg
without bend
20/08/19 34 36.34 Broke at fixed overhand, 1 strand, leg
without bend
Average 36.23

* Sample 20/08/19 #33 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 216

Appendix 4: Edelrid 25mm Tubular Webbing

Test Date: Tuesday, 20 August 2019

Max Force (kN): 37.46
Product Name: 2pt load sharing overhand
Batch #: 33
Material: 25mm Edelrid webbing

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 217

Appendix 4: Edelrid 25mm Tubular Webbing

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 218

Appendix 5: CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope

Appendix 5: CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope

Loop
Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• CT 8.2mm nylon dynamic half rope.

Test setup
• Loops sewn.

Test parameters
• Tested between 12mm pins.
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute.

Results
Date # Breaking Comments
strength (kN)
22/10/20 22* 23.00 Broke at stitching
22/10/20 23 21.98 Broke at stitching
22/10/20 24 22.42 Broke at stitching
Average 22.47
* Sample 22/10/20 #22 of the testing shown on the following pages

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 219

Appendix 5: CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope

Test Date: Thursday, 22 October, 2020

Max Force (kN): 23.00
Product Name: Loop sewn
Batch #: 22
Material: 8.2mm CT Dynamic cord

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 220

Appendix 5: CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 221

Appendix 5: CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope

2 point anchor, fixed focal, 2 strands, 1 carabiner

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• CT 8.2mm nylon dynamic rope.

Test setup
• Loops sewn.
• Tied overhand focal knot.

Test parameters
• 2-point anchor attached to the outside holes of a 5 hole rigging plate.
• Tested between 12mm pin and 10mm rapides.
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute.

Results
Date # Breaking Comments
force (kN)
22/10/20 1* 30.08 Broke at fixed overhand, both strands, bottom leg
22/10/20 2 29.66 Broke at fixed overhand, both strands, bottom leg
22/10/20 3 30.97 Broke at fixed overhand, both strands, bottom leg
Average 30.24
* Sample 22/10/20 #1 of the testing shown on the following pages

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 222

Appendix 5: CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope

Test Date: Thursday, 22 October, 2020

Max Force (kN): 30.80
Product Name: 2pt anchor fixed overhand
Batch #: 1
Material: 8.2mm CT Dynamic

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 223

Appendix 5: CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 224

Appendix 5: CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope

2 point anchor, floating focal, 1 strand, 1 carabiner

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• CT 8.2mm nylon dynamic rope.

Test setup
• Loops sewn.
• Tied two overhand limiting knots at 20cm apart

Test parameters
• 2-point anchor attached to the outside holes of a 5 hole rigging plate.
• Tested between 12mm pin and 10mm rapides.
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute.

Results
Date # Max force Comments
(kN)
24/05/19 12 18.73 Broke at limiting overhand, 1 strand, on the sewn leg
17/10/19 13* 17.84 Broke at limiting overhand, 1 strand, on the sewn leg
17/10/19 14 17.63 Broke at limiting overhand, 1 strand, on the sewn leg
Average 18.07

* Sample 17/10/19 #13 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 225

Appendix 5: CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope

Test Date: Thursday, 17 October 2019

Max Force (kN): 17.84
Product Name: Two point floating 1 stand clipped 1 biner
Batch #: 13
Material: 8.2mm CT Dymanic half

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 226

Appendix 5: CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 227

Appendix 5: CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope

2 point anchor, floating focal, 2 strand, 2 carabiners

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• CT 8.2mm nylon dynamic rope.

Test setup
• Loops sewn.
• Tied two overhand limiting knots at 20cm apart

Test parameters
• 2-point anchor attached to the outside holes of a 5 hole rigging plate.
• Tested between 12mm pin and 10mm rapides.
• Slow pull speed 100mm/minute.

Results
Date # Max force Comments
(kN)
17/10/19 15* 32.41 Broke at limiting overhand, both strands, on the sewn leg
17/10/19 16 30.36 Broke at limiting overhand, both strands, on the sewn leg
17/10/19 17 31.81 Broke at limiting overhand, both strands, on the sewn leg
Average 31.53

* Sample 17/10/19 #15 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 228

Appendix 5: CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope

Test Date: Thursday, 17 October 2019

Max Force (kN): 32.41
Product Name: Two point floating 2 stand clipped 2 biner
Batch #: 15
Material: 8.2mm CT Dymanic half

Force-Time Curve
Graph Area
Force(kN)

Time(s)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

Machine has a current calibration certificate. [Link]

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 229

Appendix 5: CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 230

Appendix 5: CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope

Fixed focal, 1 carabiner, 2 strands clipped, 90cm sling

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• CT 8.2mm dynamic rope

Test setup
• Loop sewn.
• Tied overhand knot at focal point.
• 200kg mass (approx 1.96kN).
• 0cm drop.

Test parameters
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiners.
• Dropped on the side of the bend and side without the bend.
• Ext. = Extension of the RHS from start length with the load in place pre-drop to finish length
post-drop with the load still hanging, including the leg and loop.

Results – side with bend

Date # Start RHS End RHS Ext. RHS Predrop Predrop Post drop Diff. RHS
(cm) (cm) (cm) LHS (kN) RHS (kN) RHS (kN) (kN)
11/12/20 16* 37.00 40.00 3.00 1.00 1.00 2.46 1.46
11/12/20 17 39.00 42.00 3.00 0.98 1.00 2.48 1.48
11/12/20 18 40.00 44.00 4.00 0.98 1.00 2.42 1.42
Average 3.33 2.45 1.45
* Sample 11/12/20 #16 of the testing shown on the following pages.

Results – side without bend

Date # Start RHS End RHS Ext. RHS Predrop Predrop Post drop Diff. RHS
(cm) (cm) (cm) LHS (kN) RHS (kN) RHS (kN) (kN)
16/10/20 10* 24.00 27.00 3.00 0.84 1.06 2.34 1.28
16/10/20 11 26.00 29.50 3.50 0.96 0.94 2.38 1.44
16/10/20 12 18.00 22.00 4.00 0.90 1.02 2.46 1.44
Average 3.50 2.39 1.39
* Sample 16/10/20 #10 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 231

Appendix 5: CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope

Test Date: Friday, 11 December, 2020

Test #: 16
Product Name: 2-point fixed, overhand knot, stitched,
90cm sling
Material: 8.2mm CT Dynamic Rope
Test type: Drop 0cm, side without stitching, 200kg
Max arrest force (kN): 2.46kN

Force -Time Curve

3.0

2.5

2.0
Force (kN)

1.5

1.0

0.5

0.0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0
Time (sec)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 232

Appendix 5: CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 233

Appendix 5: CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope

Test Date: Friday, 16 October, 2020

Test #: 10
Product Name: 2-point fixed anchor, overhand knot, sewn,
90cm sling
Material: 8mm CT dynamic rope
Test type: Drop 0cm, side with stitching, 200kg
Max arrest force (kN): 2.34kN

Force -Time Curve

2.5

1.5
Force (kN)

0.5

0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0
Time (sec)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 234

Appendix 5: CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 235

Appendix 5: CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope

Floating focal, 1 carabiner, 1 strand clipped, 90cm sling

Slow Pull Test Friction Test Drop Test

Materials
• CT 8.2mm dynamic rope.

Test setup
• Loops sewn together.
• Tied two overhand limiting knots at 20cm apart.
• 200kg mass (approx 1.96kN).
• 10cm drop.

Test parameters
• Tested between 12mm steel carabiners.
• Dropped on the side of the stitching and side without stitching.
• Ext. = Extension of the RHS from start length with the load in place pre-drop to finish length
post-drop with the load still hanging, including the leg and loop.

Results – side without stitching

Date # Start RHS End RHS Ext. RHS Predrop Predrop Post drop Diff. RHS
(cm) (cm) (cm) LHS (kN) RHS (kN) RHS (kN) (kN)
3/11/20 13* 48.00 72.00 24.00 1.00 1.00 3.80 2.80
3/11/20 14 48.00 72.50 24.50 1.00 0.96 3.90 2.94
3/11/20 15 46.00 73.00 27.00 1.00 0.98 4.00 3.02
Average 25.17 3.90 2.92
* Sample 3/11/20 #13 of the testing shown on the following pages.

Results – side with stitching

Date # Start RHS End RHS Ext. RHS Predrop Predrop Post drop Diff. RHS
(cm) (cm) (cm) LHS (kN) RHS (kN) RHS (kN) (kN)
28/10/19 10* 46.00 75.00 29.00 1.08 0.94 4.20 3.26
28/10/19 11 45.00 72.50 27.50 1.08 0.94 4.20 3.26
28/10/19 12 48.00 72.00 24.00 1.08 0.92 4.18 3.26
Average 26.83 4.19 3.26
* Sample 28/10/1 #10 of the testing shown on the following pages.

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 236

Appendix 5: CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope

Test Date: Tuesday, 3 November, 2020

Test #: 13
Product Name: 2-point floating, 1 strand, 1 biner, o/h
limiting knots, sewn, 90cm sling
Material: 8.2mm CT dynamic rope
Test type: Drop 10cm, side without stitching, 200kg
Max arrest force (kN): 3.80kN

Force -Time Curve

6

4
Force (kN)

0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0
Time (sec)

Tested by: Grant Prattley

Signed:

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 237

Appendix 5: CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 238

Appendix 5: CT 8.2mm Dynamic Rope

CanyonSAR: Rope Rescue Testing Report 2021 Table of Contents 239