BROW DESIGN
Welcome to our Brow Design - quick reference guide.
Here you will find tips on face shapes, the golden rules and a
step-by-step to brow mapping.
For the full class please click here.
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BROW DESIGN - FACE SHAPES
OVAL
1. Considered the ideal face shape.
2. Chin is slimmer than forehead with soft curves.
3. These clients will suit most brow shapes.
4. A soft angled brow will be most flattering.
5. Try to avoid anything too harsh or angular.
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BROW DESIGN - FACE SHAPES
SQUARE
1. Forehead, cheekbones and jawline almost the same width.
2. Strong angles present.
3. Brow should be angular to compliment.
4. Higher arch with lengthend tail will compliment.
5. Avoid flat brows or curved brows.
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BROW DESIGN - FACE SHAPES
ROUND
1. Face width & length almost the same.
2. Widens at the cheeks.
3. Soft curves & features.
4. Lift the arch to lengthen & slim the face.
5. Avoid round brows or harsh angles.
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BROW DESIGN - FACE SHAPES
RECTANGLE
1. Same characteristics as a sqaure face expect longer.
2. Forehead, cheeks & jawline around the same width.
3. Keep brows straight to avoid adding length to the face.
4. Lengthen body and set further apart to add width to forehead.
5. If lifting the arch keep the bulb in its natural place.
6. Angular brows will compliment.
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BROW DESIGN - FACE SHAPES
HEART
1. Face strongly tapers towards the chin.
2. Forehead is the widest part of the face.
3. Keep brows shorter on length and set closer together.
4. Soft, curved shape will compliment.
5. Avoid flat and round brows.
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BROW DESIGN - FACE SHAPES
DIAMOND
1. Strong angled features widest at temples.
2. Curved brows will soften face shape.
3. Avoid making brows too long.
4. Not as common as other face shapes.
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BROW DESIGN
When designing the brows, pay attention to the angles on the face.
1. Follow the outer corner of the upper lid to assess the tail angle.
2. Follow the inner corner of the upper lid & outer corner of the lower
lid to assess arch height.
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BROW DESIGN - EXAMPLE
ROUND / DIAMOND
1. Widest at cheeks.
2. Wide set eyes (but narrower forehead).
3. Lift arch slightly.
4. lengthen body to add width.
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BROW DESIGN - EXAMPLE
SQAURE
1. Strong, angular features.
2. Angled brow, high arch.
3. Good natural brow.
4. Sharpen / define.
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BROW DESIGN - EXAMPLE
OBLONG / RECTANGLE
1. Cheeks & jaw same width.
2. Face is longer than it is wide with high forehead & long chin.
3. Keep brows flat.
4. Lengthen into the middle.
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BROW DESIGN - EXAMPLE
OVAL
1. Widest at cheekbones.
2. Rounded forehead.
3. No strong angles.
4. Extend arch & thicken brows.
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GOLDEN RULES
1. The bulb should always be the thickest part of the brow.
2. The thickness should begin to taper as you approach the arch.
3. The tail should always be the thinnest part of the brow.
4. The arch should always be the highest point of the brow.
5. The tail should never sit lower than the bulb.
6. Ensure the body makes up at least 2/3 of the overall length of the
brow.
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MAPPING STEP BY STEP
1. Find your centre Line.
(client sitting up)
2. Add in your height lines -
bottom of the bulb / top of
the bulb / top of the arch.
(client sitting up)
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MAPPING STEP BY STEP
3. Add in your start points.
4. Check the distance from
each start point is equal to
the centre line.
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MAPPING STEP BY STEP
5. Find your arch point by
measuring 4.5cm from the
centre line, or using the bone
structure.
6. Join point B & C together
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MAPPING STEP BY STEP
7. Join point C & D together.
Use a point through the
centre line to join both sides -
this will help to keep the tail
angle symmetrical.
8. Join points A & E together,
ensuring points E are at the
same hight.
9. Join points E & D together.
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MAPPING STEP BY STEP
You can now tidy up, remove the lines & soften the corners.
Remember to ALWAYS sit your client up with eyes open to cross check
symmetry and balance.
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TOP TIPS
Tip No 1:
Before you put in those height lines, LOOK at their eyes and eye lid space.
Are they even?
Is one eye lower than the other?
Does one have much more lid space than the other?
It doesn’t matter how straight those guide lines are, if the eyes are uneven, your brows will
look uneven. Assess this and adjust your heights to even them out, not only will this give the
illusion of symmetrical brows, but it will also even out the eyes – WIN WIN!
Tip No 2:
Before that mapping starts, get your client to raise their brows as much as they can,
what one is higher?
Then frown, where are those tails sitting?
Then raise again, frown again and relax.
You’ll now see what side their stronger muscle is laying on and what side will raise more as
they talk. Factor this into your design. Remember those frowning angles during your design
incase you need to move those tails slightly.
Tip No 3:
USE THE BROW BONE! Our brow should naturally follow the brow bone. Feel for this and use
it with your design, keep them in their correct natural position.
Tip No 4:
Map with the eyes OPEN.
The muscles will be in a different position to when eyes are closed and this will affect your
symmetry & balance when drawing. Height lines should always go in with the client sitting up
for the same reason.
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THANK YOU
Thank you for downloading our step by step guide to Brow Design, we
hope you found it useful :)
For full video tutorials & webinars please visit: [Link]
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