100% found this document useful (2 votes)
504 views129 pages

Colorful Crochet Bird Patterns

Uploaded by

Isabel Sanchez
Copyright
© All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
100% found this document useful (2 votes)
504 views129 pages

Colorful Crochet Bird Patterns

Uploaded by

Isabel Sanchez
Copyright
© All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

Colorful

UDES
INCL ORIALS
O TU
T
VIDE L CROCHE
T I LAR IA CA LIR I
R AL
FO HES
STITC

CROCHET
BIRDS
19 am igu r um i Pat t e rn s
to create f e at he r e d f rie n d s

METEOOR BOOKS
Please note this book is
copyright-protected.

Tenga en cuenta que este libro está


protegido por derechos de autor.

Colorful Crochet Birds


19 Amigurumi Patterns to Create Feathered Friends
Ilaria Caliri

Copyright © 2024 Meteoor BV (BE0550756201) & Ilaria Caliri

Have you made birds with patterns from this book?


Share your creations on [Link]/4900
or on Instagram with #colorfulcrochetbirds

First published April 2024


by Meteoor BV, Antwerp,
Belgium
[Link]
hello@[Link]

Text and images: Ilaria Caliri


Yarn sponsor: Ricorumi

Pattern testers: Ashton Kirkham, Jill Constantine, Kristi Randmaa,


Serena Chew, Amanda French, Shannon Kishbaugh, Barbara Roman,
Debbie Eastman, Annegret Siegert, Bianka Karolkiewicz, Kate Waugh,
Luisa Willem, Marianne Rosqvist, Lotte Nørgaard Pedersen, Iris Dongo,
Marjan Peustjens, Ilonka Ladenius, Karen Celestine Lee, Karina Green,
Barbara Volcov, Sabine Schiffelhuber, Adrienn Wéber, Silke Bridg­man,
Sabina Escrig, Jimena Bouso, Sandra Zheng, Louisa Wong, Sandra
Belleval, Dóra Sipos-Járási, Mariska Van den Berg, Elise Van den Poel,
Esther van Veen, Marleen Mertens, Leeke Brandsma, Astrid Markman,
Christina Fodero, Jasmijn van Binsbergen

Paperback edition: ISBN 978-949164-352-1

All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval


system or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior
written permission of the publisher and copyright owner. The book is
sold subject to the condition that all designs are copyright and are not for
commercial or educational reproduction without the permission of the
designer and copyright owner. The publisher and authors can accept no
legal responsibility for any consequences arising from the application of
information, advice or instructions given in this publication.
Colorful
I LAR I A CA LIR I

CROCHET
BIRDS
19 am igur um i Pat t e rn s
to create feat he r e d f rie n d s
4 Index

page 52

e 18
26 pag
ge
pa
2
ge 11
pa

page 40
88
ge
pa

e 46

page 9
pag

4
page 64

page 72
0
pag

e8

p
ag

p
e4

ag
6

e 10
4
page 58

34
e
pag
20

page
e1

pag
e
pag

34

46
Intro 5

Hello dear crocheter! crochet-alongs with my crochet partner Irene


Strange …). Until last year, my publisher sent an
I’m proud you're holding my book in your email with a very simple and straightforward
hands! Maybe you’re taking your first steps request: BIRDS! :) Yes! The time had come to
into the craft world, I've been there! Or crochet all those feathered friends!
you’re an expert looking for new patterns, The past year has been filled with sketching,
I feel you. We all once started with a crochet crocheting (often frogging and redoing), adding
hook, some yarn and so much enthusiasm to tiny details, writing down instructions and advice
learn, and after that first attempt, it’s pretty and taking adorable pictures. I'm happy to now
much impossible to stop. introduce you to my “Colorful Crochet Birds”!
My crochet designing journey started in
2010 with a humble blog and no idea that this Colorful – I tried to keep the birds’ colors as
could be a job. Only a few years later, I got realistic as possible, since nature has done an
an unexpected book proposal, asking me if amazing job designing all these species. There’s a
I wanted to bundle my cute winter-themed bit of “poetic freedom” here and there, and I invite
patterns in “Amigurumi Winter Wonderland”! you to play with the colors that make you happy!
Writing this intro makes me realize that this Crochet – More even than my mother tongue
year marks the 10th anniversary of this first (Italian) or my second language (English), cro-
book, it’s one of the many coincidences of life. chet is my language. Express yourself following
About 5 years ago, I first came across the patterns step by step or use them as a tram-
colorful bird feathers on my amigurumi path, poline to create your own fun and unique birds!
and I spent whole days sketching birds while Birds – There are 19 birds hiding in between
thinking of the best possible candidates for these pages, from all the corners of the world.
a new amigurumi pattern. A chubby toucan, Many of them you'll know, while others might be
with a huge, colorful beak, swiftly came to new to you. I hope you’ll love discovering all of
life on paper. I generally re-sketch an idea them! A flock of feathered friends is waiting to
many times in order to balance the propor- take flight.
tions and adjust the shape, keeping in mind
that it should become a three-dimensional
toy made mainly of single crochet stitches.
AMIGURUMI GALLERY
That time, surprisingly, the first sketch was
With each pattern, I have included a URL and
spot on, no need to adjust a single curve.
QR code that will take you to that bird's dedicated
Toco the Toucan's sketch was translated to
online gallery. Share your finished birds or find
stitches in cotton yarn (page 88) and made
inspiration in the color and yarn choices of your
me want to make more birds, in every color,
fellow crocheters. Simply follow the link or scan
with pointy beaks, quirky feet, silky feathers,
the QR code with your mobile phone. Phones with
vivacious eyes … A dedicated notebook kept
iOS will scan the QR code automatically in camera
those little sketches safe for a few years,
mode. For phones with Android you may need to
while I dove into other projects (books, kits,
install a QR Reader app first.
6 Basic materials

Basic materials
Before we begin, make sure you have the necessary supplies.
This section covers the basic tools required to make the toys in this book.

Colorful yarn add the soft “halo” effect (thanks to the mohair). When
For every pattern in the book I’ve listed the materi- holding two yarns together, you may need a slightly
als used to create the design. I’ve mainly used bigger crochet hook to work smoothly. To bring out the
Ricorumi Cotton DK (25 g / 57,5 m), and in a few fluffiness of the mohair, you can comb the right side of
characters I’ve used it together with Essentials the crochet work using a wire brush, moving the wire
Super Kid Mohair Silk (25 g / 200 m) for a fluffy brush gently in all directions. Make sure to protect the
texture. Don’t feel tied to the choices of yarn fiber safety eyes with a piece of washi tape while brushing
and thickness though: any weight of cotton, acrylic around them to prevent scratching.
or wool can be used. Check the chart on page 8 for
a quick comparison of yarn weights and corre- Crochet hook
sponding recommended hook sizes. Remember Like yarn, hooks come in different sorts and sizes.
that chunkier yarn will result in a larger amigurumi, Bigger hooks make bigger stitches than smaller ones.
while thinner yarn will make it smaller! It's important to match the right hook size with the
right yarn weight. For amigurumi, you generally want
NOTE: When crocheting amigurumi, use a to use a hook two or three sizes smaller than what is
slightly smaller hook than what's recom- recommended on your yarn label. The crochet fabric
mended on the yarn label. This way, your should be quite tight, without any gaps through which
stitches will be tighter and the stuffing will the stuffing can escape. Using a smaller hook makes it
not show through. easier to achieve this.
Hooks are usually made from aluminum or steel.
The patterns don’t give the yarn quantity. The Metal hooks tend to slip between the stitches more
amount of yarn can vary according to your working easily. Preferably choose a hook with a rubber ergo-
tension and yarn thickness. When more than one nomic handle.
25 g ball of a single color is needed, I mention this
in the materials list. Stitch marker
A stitch marker is a small metal or plastic clip. It’s a
Fluffy mohair yarn simple tool to mark your starting point and give you
Mohair is a fiber from angora goats, which is gen- the assurance that you’ve made the right number of
erally spun with other fibers to create a fine and stitches in each round. Mark the last stitch of the round
fluffy thread. You can also find vegan-friendly yarn with your stitch marker. You move your stitch marker
similar to mohair made only of synthetic or acrylic up one round at the end of each round. When you reach
fibers. For some amigurumi projects in this book, I your stitch marker after crocheting a new round, you
suggest holding a mohair thread with cotton yarn take it out, crochet in this stitch, then put it in the last
to create a defined shape (thanks to the cotton) and stitch of the round you crocheted.
Basic materials 7

Stuffing
For the filling, polyester fiberfill is advised. It's
washable and non-allergenic. The individual parts of
a toy are stuffed while the piece is being crocheted.
The stuffing of wider pieces such as the head or body
begins when they are roughly half finished. For stuff-
ing very thin pieces in which you cannot fit a finger,
the back of a crochet hook or a chopstick can be used.
Generally, when stuffing a toy, it's important to use
more stuffing than you might initially think. If the toy
is not stuffed tightly, it will lose its shape over time.
On the other hand, if it's overstuffed, the stuffing may
cause the fabric to stretch and become visible. You'll
need to find the right balance.

Safety eyes
Safety eyes come in two different parts – the front
(the bead that will show on the outside, on a ribbed
stem) and the back (the washer). The washer keeps
the eye in place. Be careful when you apply safety
eyes: once you put the washer on, you won’t be able
to pull it off again, so make sure that the post is where
you want it to be before attaching the washer. If you
choose to work with a different yarn weight than
specified in the pattern, you may need to choose
bigger or smaller safety eyes accordingly.
If you’re crocheting these toys for children under
the age of three, it's advised to embroider the facial
features for safety.

Tapestry needle
For embroidery, a tapestry needle with a rounded tip
is used. This rounded tip makes it easier to insert your
needle in a specific space without splitting your yarn.

Sewing pins
It can be handy to have some sewing pins lying
around, to help position body parts before sewing
them on permanently.
8 What you should know before you start

What you should know before you start


Skill level example. You then repeat this round four times,

*
easy ( ) intermediate (
**
) advanced ( )
***
Every pattern is marked with a skill level to indicate
crocheting the stitches in round 9, 10, 11 and 12.

how easy they are to make. If this is your first Although we usually crochet in rounds, occasionally
time making amigurumi, it’s best to start with an it happens that we switch to rows, going back and
easy pattern and work up to the intermediate and forth instead of working in continuous spirals. When
advanced ones. we switch to rows, it will be indicated with ‘Row + a
number’. Turn your crochet work at the end of each
Pattern structure row and start the next one following the instructions.
These patterns are worked in continuous spirals. When the next row starts with one or more turning
Crocheting in spirals can be confusing since there’s chains, you do not count them as stitches.
no clear indication of where a new round begins and
the previous one ends. To keep track of the rounds, At the end of each line you will find the number of
you can mark the end of a round with a stitch marker stitches you should have in square brackets, for
or safety pin. After crocheting the next round, you example [9] or [9 + 2 ch]. When in doubt, take a
should end up right above your stitch marker. Move moment to check your stitch count.
your stitch marker up at the end of each round to
keep track of where you are. When parts of the instructions repeat throughout
the round, we place them between rounded brackets,
At the beginning of each line you will find ‘Rnd + followed by the number of times this part should be
a number’ to indicate which round you are in. worked. We do this to shorten the pattern and make it
If a round is repeated, you'll read ‘Rnd 9 – 12’, for less cluttered.

NUMBER (SYMBOL) 1 2 3 4 5 6

CATEGORY NAME super fine fine light medium heavy very heavy

UK YARN TYPE 3 ply 4 ply double knitting aran chunky super chunky
(DK)

US YARN TYPE Fingering Sport Light Worsted Bulky Extra Bulky


Worsted

THE HOOK I RECOMMEND I-9


8 steel to B-1 B-1 B-1 to E-4 E-4 to 7 7 to I-9
IN US SIZE to K-10 1/2

THE HOOK I RECOMMEND 1.5 to 2.5mm 2.5mm 2.5 to 3.5mm 3.5 to 4.5mm 4.5 to 5.5mm 5.5 to 6.5mm
IN METRIC SIZE
Stitch instructions 9

STITCH INSTRUCTIONS
These step-by-step guides will help you master all the essential stitches and techniques
that you'll need every time you pick up a hook.

STITCH TUTORIAL VIDEOS


With each stitch explanation we have included a URL and QR code that will take you to our online stitch tutorial video,
showing the technique step by step to help you master it even more quickly. Simply follow the link or scan the QR code
with your smartphone. Phones with iOS will scan the QR code automatically in camera mode. For phones with Android,
you may need to install a QR Reader app first.

This book uses crochet abbreviations. You'll read about the stitches and their relevant abbreviations on the
following pages. If this is your first time crocheting from a pattern, the abbreviations might feel like a foreign language.
However, once you get used to them, they actually make it easier to quickly decipher a pattern.
This book is written using US crochet terms.

SLIP KNOT
Tying a slip knot onto the crochet hook is one of the first things
you need to know to get started with crocheting. It's like Scan or visit
[Link]/
casting the yarn onto the hook so you can start crocheting. slipknot for the
video tutorial
Step 1: Wrap the yarn into a loop, so that the shorter strand
1 2
lies behind the longer one. Insert the crochet hook through
the loop, catch the longer yarn and bring it through the loop.
Step 2: Pull on both ends of the yarn to tighten the knot
around the hook.

CHAIN (abbreviation: ch)


If you’re working in rows, your first row will be a series of
chain stitches.
Step 1: Use the hook to draw the yarn through the loop. Scan or visit
[Link]/ch
1
Step 2: Pull the loop until tight.
2 for the video tutorial
Step 3: Wrap the yarn over the hook from back to front.
Pull the hook, carrying the yarn, through the loop already
on your hook. You have now completed one chain stitch.
Step 4: Repeat these steps as indicated in the pattern to
create a foundation chain.
4
3
COUNTING CHAIN STITCHES
Each V-shaped chain counts as one stitch. Never count your
first slip knot and the loop on the hook. Make sure that the chain is
untwisted and the front is directed towards you for easier counting.
10 Stitch instructions

INSERT THE HOOK (PLACEMENT OF When asked to crochet FLO or BLO you make the same stitch,
STITCHES) but leave one loop untouched.
With the exception of chains, all crochet stitches
require the hook to be inserted in existing Inserting the hook in front loops only (abbreviation: FLO)
stitches. Insert the hook underneath both top When working in Front Loops Only, you pick up only the front loop
loops of the stitch in the row or round below. towards you.
When inserting the hook, you take it from front
to back through a stitch. The point of the hook Inserting the hook in back loops only (abbreviation: BLO)
must always look down or sideways, so the When working in Back Loops Only, you pick up only the back loop
hook doesn’t snag the yarn or the fabric. away from you.

Scan or visit
[Link]/
FLO-BLO for the
video tutorial

both loops front loops only back loops only

Scan or visit SLIP STITCH (abbreviation: slst)


[Link]/
slst for the video A slip stitch is used to move across one or
tutorial
more stitches at once or to finish a piece. 1
Step 1: Insert your hook into the next stitch.
2
Step 2: Wrap the yarn over the hook and
draw through the stitch and loop on your
hook at once.

SINGLE CROCHET (abbreviation: sc)


Single crochet is the stitch that will be
most frequently used in this book. 3
Step 1: Insert the hook into the next stitch.
1 2
Step 2: Wrap the yarn over the hook. Pull
the yarn through the stitch. You will see
Scan or visit
[Link].
that there are now two loops on the hook.
show/sc for the Step 3: Wrap the yarn over the hook again
video tutorial
and draw it through both loops at once.
4 5
Step 4: You have now completed one
single crochet.
Step 5: Insert the hook in the next stitch
to continue.
Stitch instructions 11

HALF DOUBLE CROCHET


(abbreviation: hdc)
Step 1: Bring your yarn over the hook from
1 2 back to front before placing the hook in the
stitch.
Step 2: Wrap the yarn over the hook and
draw the yarn through the stitch. You now
Scan or visit
have three loops on the hook. [Link]/
Step 3: Wrap the yarn over the hook again hdc for the
video tutorial
and pull it through all three loops on the
3 4 hook. You have completed your first half
double crochet.
Step 4: To continue, bring your yarn over
the hook and insert it in the next stitch.

DOUBLE CROCHET (abbreviation: dc)


Step 1: Bring your yarn over the hook from back
to front before placing the hook in the stitch.
1 2 3 Step 2: Wrap the yarn over the hook and
draw the yarn through the stitch. You now
have three loops on the hook.
Step 3: Wrap the yarn over the hook and
pull it through the first two loops on the
Scan or visit
hook. You now have two loops on the hook. [Link].
Step 4: Wrap the yarn over the hook one show/dc for
the video tutorial
last time and draw it through both loops
4 5 on the hook. You have now completed one
double crochet.
Step 5: To continue, bring your yarn over
the hook and insert it in the next stitch.

CHECKING THE STITCH TOTAL


Counting stitches will help you check that you are following the pattern correctly. The easiest way to count
stitches is to look at the plaited tops (V's at the top of your crochetwork). If you discover you missed one stitch or
made one too many, you can always try to correct it by making an extra decrease or increase in the following
round (instructions on page 12) or undo a few stitches to reach the mistake and re-work that round.
12 Stitch instructions

TRIPLE CROCHET (abbreviation: tr)


Step 1: Bring your yarn over the hook
twice from back to front before placing the
hook in the stitch. 4

Step 2: Wrap the yarn over the hook and


2
1

draw the yarn through the stitch. You now 1 2 3


have four loops on the hook.
Step 3: Wrap the yarn over the hook again
and pull it through the first two loops on
the hook. You now have three loops on the
hook.
Step 4: Wrap the yarn over the hook again
Scan or visit
[Link].
and pull it through the first two loops on 4 5
show/tr for the hook. You now have two loops on the
the video tutorial
hook.
Step 5: Wrap the yarn over the hook again
and pull it through the first two loops on
the hook. You have now completed one
triple crochet.

INCREASE (abbreviation: inc)


Scan or visit
[Link]. To increase, two single crochet stitches are made in
show/inc for the the same stitch. This way, new stitches are created
video tutorial
and the piece expands.
Step 1: Make a first single crochet stitch in the next 1 2

stitch.
Step 2: Make a second single crochet stitch in the
same stitch.

INVISIBLE DECREASE (abbreviation: dec)


When decreasing, two stitches are crocheted together.
1
The number of stitches in a round therefore decreases
and the piece shrinks.
Step 1: Insert the hook in the front loop of your first
2
stitch. Now immediately insert your hook in the front
Scan or visit
[Link].
loop of the second stitch. You now have three loops on
show/dec for the your hook.
video tutorial
Step 2: Wrap the yarn over the hook and pull it through
the first two loops on the hook.
3
Step 3: Wrap the yarn over the hook again and pull it
through the remaining two loops on the hook. You have
now completed one invisible decrease.
Stitch instructions 13

MAGIC RING
working yarn To start an amigurumi piece, you need a little circle.
working yarn

1 A magic ring is the ideal way to start crocheting in the


2 round as there will be no hole left in the middle of your
starting round. You start by crocheting over an adjust-
tail
tail tail
tail
yarn
workingyarn
working able loop and finally pull the loop tight when you have
finished the required number of stitches.
working yarn
Step 1: Start with the yarn crossed to form a circle.
Step 2: Draw up a loop with your hook, but don’t pull
3 4
it tight.
Step 3: Hold the circle with your index finger and
thumb and wrap the working yarn over your middle
finger.
Step 4-5: Make one chain stitch by wrapping the yarn
over the hook and pulling it through the loop on the
5 hook.
6 Step 6: Now insert your hook into the circle and
underneath the tail. Wrap the yarn over the hook and
draw up a loop.
Step 7: Keep your hook above the circle and wrap the
yarn over the hook again.
Step 8: Pull it through both loops on the hook. You
have now completed your first single crochet stitch.
8 Continue to crochet (repeating step 6, 7, 8) until you
7 have the required number of stitches as mentioned Scan or visit
in the pattern. [Link]/
magicring for the
Step 9-10: Now grab the yarn tail and pull to draw video tutorial
the center of the ring tightly.
You can now begin your second round by crocheting
into the first single crochet stitch of the magic ring.
10
9 You can use a stitch marker to remember where you
started.

If you don't want to use the magic ring technique, there's


an easier way to start crocheting in the round, starting with
2 chain stitches. The downside of this technique is a tiny
hole that remains visible in the center of the piece.

STARTING A CIRCULAR PIECE WITH


Scan or visit
2 CHAIN STITCHES [Link]/
Step 1: Start by making a slip knot. Then, make 2ch for the
2 video tutorial
2 chain stitches and work x sc into the second chain
1 from the hook – where x is the number of sc stitches
you would make in your magic ring.
Step 2: Make a slst in the first stitch. You now have a
little circle to start with.
14 Stitch instructions

CROCHET AROUND A FOUNDATION CHAIN


Some pieces start with an oval. You make an oval by
1
crocheting around a foundation chain.
Step 1: Crochet a foundation chain with as many
2
chains as mentioned in the pattern and skip the first
chain on the hook.
Step 2-3: Work a sc stitch in the next chain stitch.
Work your crochet stitches into each chain across as 3
4
mentioned in the pattern.
Step 4: The last stitch before turning is usually an
increase stitch.
Scan or visit
[Link]/
Step 5: Turn your work upside down to work into the
oval for the underside of the chain stitches. You’ll notice that only 5
video tutorial
one loop is available, simply insert your hook in this
loop. Work your stitches into each chain across.
Step 6: When finished, your last stitch should be next
to the first stitch you made. You can now continue 6

working in spirals.

CROCHET IN THE BACK RIDGE OF A CHAIN


1
Usually you crochet in the front side of the chain, which
looks like a series of interlocking V's (1).
When you turn your chain, you'll see a small 'hump' on
the back side of each stitch (2 - marked in blue). Insert
your hook under this hump and continue as usual. 2

Scan or visit [Link]/backridge for the video tutorial

COLOR CHANGE – INVISIBLE COLOR CHANGE


When you want to switch from one color to the next,
1
you work to within two stitches before a color change.
Step 1: Make the next single crochet stitch as usual,
Scan or visit but don’t pull the final loop through.
[Link]/ Step 2-3: Instead, wrap the new yarn color around
colorchange
your hook and pull it through the remaining loops. 2
for the video
tutorial
To make a neat color change, you can make the first
stitch in the new color a slip stitch instead of a single
crochet. Don’t pull the slip stitch too tight or it will be
3
difficult to crochet into in the next round. Tie the
loose tails in a knot and leave them on the inside.
Stitch instructions 15

COLOR CHANGE – TAPESTRY Scan or visit


Carry the yarn strand of one color along within the [Link]/
1 tapestry for the
stitches (on top of the V) while continuing to crochet video tutorial
with the other color.
Step 1: Every time you make a stitch, you wrap the
strand of the yarn color that you aren’t using.
2 Step 2: Take this color on your hook in the last step
of a color change.

STANDING STITCH START


The standing stitch start is a seamless way to Scan or visit

2 begin a round in a new color. [Link]/


1 standingsc for the
Step 1: Attach your new yarn color to your hook video tutorial
with a slip knot.
Step 2: Insert your hook into the designated stitch
or space and pull up a loop.
3 Step 3: Yarn over and pull through both loops on
the hook.

BOBBLE STITCH (abbreviation: 3-dc-bobble)


The bobble stitch creates a soft dimensional bobble. Think
of it as a cluster of dc stitches worked in the same stitch.
Step 1: Bring your yarn over the hook from back to front
1 2 before placing the hook in the stitch.
Step 2: Wrap the yarn over the hook and draw the yarn
through the stitch. You now have three loops on the hook. Scan or visit
[Link]/
Wrap the yarn over the hook again and pull it through bobble for the
the first two loops on the hook. One half-closed double video tutorial

crochet is complete, and two loops remain on the hook.


3 Step 3: In the same stitch, repeat the preceding steps
twice. You should have four loops on your hook. Wrap
the yarn over your hook and draw the yarn through
all loops on the hook.

PICOT STITCH (abbreviation: ch-3-picot) Scan or visit


[Link]/
Step 1: Make two chain stitches. Insert your hook in picot for the video
tutorial
the first chain stitch you made.
Step 2: Wrap the yarn around your hook and draw it
through both loops on the hook. You have now com-
1 2 pleted one picot stitch.
16 Stitch instructions

LOOP STITCH
Step 1: Wrap a loop of yarn around your in-
1
dex finger. Insert your hook in the next stitch.
2
Step 2: Pass over and around the rear side of
the loop and catch the far side of the loop on
Scan or visit
[Link]/
your crochet hook. Draw through the stitch
loop-variant for the You now have two loops on your hook.
video tutorial
Step 3: Now wrap your yarn around your
3
hook and draw it through both loops on your
hook.
Step 4: Remove your index finger from the 4
loop.

CRAB STITCH or
REVERSE SINGLE CROCHET
A crab stitch is a regular single crochet
stitch - but reversed. Instead of working 1 2

from right to left, you work from left to right.


It creates a slightly twisted, rounded edge.
Scan or visit
[Link]/ Step 1: Insert your crochet hook into the
crab for the
video tutorial
next stitch on the right. 3

Step 2: Wrap the yarn over your hook and


pull it through the stitch.
Step 3: Wrap the yarn over your hook one
more time and pull it through both loops
on your hook.

FASTENING OFF
Step 1: When you’ve finished crocheting, cut the yarn a
couple of inches / cm from your last stitch. Pull the yarn
Scan or visit
[Link]/
through the last loop until it's all the way through. You
fastenoff for now have a finished knot. 1
the video tutorial
Step 2: Thread the long tail through a tapestry needle
2
and insert it through the back loop of the next stitch.
This way the finishing knot will remain invisible in your
finished piece. You can use this yarn tail to continue
sewing the pieces together.
Stitch instructions 17

CLOSING OFF A PIECE


1
Step 1: After several decreases in the last round, a
small hole will remain at the end of some pieces. Scan or visit
2 [Link]/
Step 2: Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail. Thread closing for the
video tutorial
the yarn tail left at the end of the piece onto a yarn
needle, then insert the needle through each of the
front loops of the stitches in the last round. Tighten
and insert the needle through the nearest stitch,
make a knot, and hide the yarn tail inside the piece.

JOINING PARTS - SEWING


1 First, pin the parts you want to sew to one another,
so you can evaluate the result and adjust if necessary.
If possible, use the leftover yarn tail from when you
fastened off, or use a new length of the same yarn
color of one of the pieces that you want to join.
Option 1 – When the different pieces are open:
2
position the piece on the body and sew all around it,
going through the stitches of both the extremity and Scan or visit
[Link]/
the body. joining-sewing
Option 2 – When the opening of the different pieces for the video
tutorial
is sewn closed before attaching them to the body:
line upthe stitches and sew through both loops of
TIP Always make sure the pieces are securely
the open side and between the stitches of the closed
attached so that they can’t be pulled off. Make
side. Use the same yarn color as the pieces you want
small, neat stitches and try to make them show
to join together.
as little as possible.

TIP: SPLITTING THE YARN


When sewing flat pieces to a stuffed piece – like cheeks or eye patches – you can use either the ending yarn tail
and a tapestry needle, or sewing thread in a matching color and a sewing needle. When using the ending yarn tail,
you can choose to split the yarn into separate strands and use only one or two strands for the sewing (depending on
your yarn choice). This way, you’ll make a thinner and neater seam all around.

TIP: HOW TO SEW A STRAIGHT LEG AND BENDING LEG


Always check the position of the feet before pinning and sewing!
Straight leg: pin the open top of the leg over two or three rounds and sew all around.
Bending leg: flatten the top of the leg and sew it closed using a tapestry needle. Pin the leg between two rounds,
then sew it to the body following the shaping of that round. The leg will be flattened when seated or lifted when in a
standing position.
Urbano the Hoopoe
Forget boring brown feathers! Urbano
the hoopoe sports a punk rock crest and a
black-and-white striped body that looks like
it came straight out of an art gallery. This
little guy with a long beak isn't just stylish
though, he’s quite the traveler too. Every
winter, he trades the European and Asian
scene for sunny Africa, migrating to escape
the cold. But Urbano’s also a family bird at
heart. He and his partner take turns keeping
their eggs warm and they raise their chicks
together, proving that even the most stylish
birds can be really soft at heart.

Amigurumi gallery: Scan or visit


[Link]/4901
to share pictures and find inspiration.
Urbano the hoopoe 19

MATERIALS
Light worsted weight yarn (Ricorumi) in
l dark yellow (Mustard 064)
l black (Black 060)
l white (Cream 002)
l brown (Wood 073)
l yellow (Saffron 063)
B-1 / 2.5 mm crochet hook
a pair of safety eyes (12 mm)
tapestry needle
pins
stitch markers
fiberfill

SKILL LEVEL
**
SIZE 8" / 20 cm tall and 8" / 20 cm long new beginning of the round.
when made with the indicated yarn. Rnd 20: 3 sc in next st, sc in next 64 st, 3 sc in next st [70]
Rnd 21: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 66 st,
inc in next st, sc in next st [72]
Change to black yarn.
Rnd 22 – 24: sc in all 72 st [72]
HEAD AND BODY (start in dark yellow yarn) Change to white yarn.
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 25 – 27: sc in all 72 st [72]
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Change to black yarn.
Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 28 – 30: sc in all 72 st [72]
Rnd 4: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 6 times [24] Change to white yarn.
Rnd 5: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 31 – 33: sc in all 72 st [72]
Rnd 6: (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st) repeat 6 times [36] Insert the safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14, with
Rnd 7: (inc in next st, sc in next 5 st) repeat 6 times [42] an interspace of approx. 14 stitches at the front (picture 5).
Rnd 8 – 18: sc in all 42 st [42] Change to black yarn.
In the next round, we’ll make the ‘spine’ of the Rnd 34: (sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in next 5 st) repeat
hoopoe’s back. 6 times [66]
Rnd 19: ch 13 (picture 1), start in second ch from Rnd 35: (sc in next 9 st, dec) repeat 6 times [60]
the hook, sc in next 12 ch, continue along Rnd 18 Rnd 36: (sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 4 st) repeat
(picture 2), sc in all 42 st, continue on the other side 6 times [54]
of the ch (picture 3), sc in next 12 st [66] (picture 4) Change to white yarn.
Mark the last stitch with a stitch marker, this is the Rnd 37: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48]
20 Urbano the hoopoe

Rnd 38: (sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat


6 times [42]
Rnd 39: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
Stuff the head and body firmly with fiberfill and
continue stuffing as you go.
Rnd 40: (sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat
6 times [30]
Rnd 41: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 42: (sc in next st, dec, sc in next st) repeat 6
times [18]
Rnd 43: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
Rnd 44: dec 6 times [6]
Fasten off, leave a yarn tail. Using your yarn needle,
weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each
remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in
the yarn ends (picture 6).

BEAK (in brown yarn)


Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
Rnd 2 – 3: sc in all 5 st [5]
Rnd 4: inc in next st, sc in next 4 st [6]
Rnd 5 – 6: sc in all 6 st [6] Work the next row through both layers to close the
Rnd 7: inc in next st, sc in next 5 st [7] opening (picture 7).
Rnd 8 – 9: sc in all 7 st [7] Closing row: sc in all 4 st [4]
Rnd 10: inc in next st, sc in next 6 st [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 8).
Rnd 11: sc in all 8 st [8]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The beak can SECOND HEAD FEATHER (start in black yarn)
be lightly stuffed with fiberfill, but stuffing is optional. Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times [8]
CHEEK (make 2, in yellow yarn) Rnd 3: sc in all 8 st [8]
Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Change to dark yellow yarn.
Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 4 – 7: sc in all 8 st [8]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the piece with the last stitch on the side. Work
the next row through both layers to close the opening.
FIRST HEAD FEATHER (start in black yarn) Closing row: sc in all 4 st [4]
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Rnd 2: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times [8]
Rnd 3: sc in all 8 st [8] THIRD AND FIFTH HEAD FEATHER
Change to dark yellow yarn. (make 2, start in black yarn)
Rnd 4 – 6: sc in all 8 st [8] Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Flatten the piece with the last stitch on the side. Rnd 2: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times [8]
Urbano the hoopoe 21

1 2 3 4

5 6 7 8

9 10 11 12

Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 2 times [10] FOURTH HEAD FEATHER (start in black yarn)
Change to dark yellow yarn. Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 4 – 9: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 2: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times [8]
Rnd 10: sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 4 st [9] Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 2 times [10]
Rnd 11: sc in next 7 st, dec [8] Change to dark yellow yarn.
Flatten the piece with the last stitch on the side. Work Rnd 4 – 10: sc in all 10 st [10]
the next row through both layers to close the opening. Rnd 11: sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 4 st [9]
Closing row: sc in all 4 st [4] Rnd 12: sc in next 7 st, dec [8]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the piece with the last stitch on the side.
22 Urbano the hoopoe

Work the next row through both layers to close the Rnd 7: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st)
opening. repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st [33]
Closing row: sc in all 4 st [4] Rnd 8: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 9). repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st [36]
Rnd 9: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st)
TAIL (start in black yarn) repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st [39]
Ch 7. Stitches are worked around both sides of the Change to white yarn (picture 12).
foundation chain. Rnd 10: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st)
Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in next repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st [42]
5 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Continue on the other side of the Fasten off on the right wing and weave in the yarn ends.
foundation chain, sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in last st [14] Don’t fasten off on the left wing, but continue working the
(picture 10) instructions below. The wing doesn’t need to be stuffed.
Rnd 2: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [16]
Rnd 3 – 5: sc in all 16 st [16] Left wing
Change to white yarn. Sc in next st, then flatten the wing with the last stitch on
Rnd 6: sc in all 16 st [16] the side. Work the next row through both layers to close
Rnd 7: (dec, sc in next 6 st) repeat 2 times [14] the opening (picture 13).
Change to black yarn. Closing row: sc in all 21 st [21]
Rnd 8 – 9: sc in all 14 st [14] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends (picture 14).
Rnd 10: (dec, sc in next 5 st) repeat 2 times [12] Pull up a loop of black yarn in the 13th stitch of the
Rnd 11: sc in all 12 st [12] closing row (picture 15).
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 11).
The tail doesn’t need to be stuffed.

WING (make 2, start in black yarn)


Ch 8. Stitches are worked around both sides of the
foundation chain.
Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in next
6 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Continue on the other side of the
foundation chain, sc in next 6 st [15]
Rnd 2: sc in next 6 st, inc in next 3 st, sc in next 6 st [18]
Rnd 3: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next st, inc in next st)
repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st [21]
Change to white yarn.
Rnd 4: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st)
repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st [24]
Rnd 5: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st)
repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st [27]
Rnd 6: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st)
repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st [30]
Change to black yarn.
Urbano the hoopoe 23

13 14 15 16

17 18 19 20

Feathers row: ch 2 + 3 dc in same st as join, skip LEG (make 2, in brown yarn)


next st, (slst + ch 3 + 3 tr in next st, skip next 2 st) Leave a long starting yarn tail.
repeat 2 times, slst in next st [3 scallops] (picture 16) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8]
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Move the yarn tail to the outside of the work, it will
be used to sew the leg to the body later.
Right wing Rnd 2 – 8: sc in all 8 st [8]
Flatten the wing by folding it in half, then pull up a Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the leg
loop of white yarn on the side with the curve on the lightly with fiberfill.
right (picture 17). Work the next row through both
layers to close the opening. FOOT (make 2)
Closing row: sc in all 21 st [21] Start by making 3 toes for each foot, we’ll later join
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. them together to make the foot.
Pull up a loop of black yarn in the first stitch of the
closing row (picture 18). Middle toe (make 1 for each foot, 2 in total, in
Feathers row: ch 3 + 3 tr in same st as join, skip brown yarn)
next 2 st, slst + ch 3 + 3 tr in next st, skip next 2 st, Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
slst + ch 2 + 3 dc in next st, skip next st, slst in Rnd 2 – 5: sc in all 6 st [6]
next st [3 scallops] (picture 19) Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. The toes don’t
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends (picture 20). need to be stuffed.
24 Urbano the hoopoe

Side toe (make 2 for each foot, 4 in total, Joining starts here
in brown yarn) 11 12 13 14 1
10
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2 – 4: sc in all 6 st [6] 9 2
Fasten off on the first side toe and weave in the yarn
end. Don’t fasten off on the second side toe. The toes 8 3
7 6 5 4
don’t need to be stuffed. In the next round, we’ll join 1st SIDE MIDDLE 2nd SIDE
the toes together. TOE TOE TOE

Legend: single crochet

Joining the toes (in brown yarn) 21

Rnd 1: sc in next 4 st of the second side toe, sc in


next 2 st of the middle toe, sc in next 5 st of the first
side toe, skip last st of this toe, skip 1 st of the middle
toe, sc in next 2 st of the middle toe, skip last st of the
middle toe, skip next st of the second side toe, sc in15 16 19 20 23 24
next st of the second side toe [14] (picture 21)14 17 18 21 22
25
Note: There are little gaps between the toes, but
since the toes remain unstuffed and flat, they13are 26

invisible. Joining starts here


22 23
Rnd 2: (dec, sc in next 5 st) repeat 2 times [12] 12
9 8 5 4 1
Rnd 3: dec 6 times [6] 11 10 7 6 3 2

Rnd 4: sc in all 6 st [6] FIRST SECOND THIRD


FEATHER FEATHER FEATHER
Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. The foot doesn’t need
to be stuffed. Using your yarn needle, weave the yarn Legend: single crochet

tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch


and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn ends.

ASSEMBLY
Tip: Use sewing pins to position all the pieces before
sewing them in place! 24 25
• Sew the beak to the head, between rounds 13 and
Rnd 10
14, centered between the eyes. Rnd 9

• Sew the cheeks below the eyes. leaving the rest of the wing unsewn (picture 24).
Legend: single crochet single crochet increase
• Pin the head feathers to the top of the head, with • Sew the tail to rounds 21 and 22 of the back of the
the first feather starting on round 8 and positioned body.
in line with the beak (pictures 22-23). The head • Sew the legs to the feet. Then sew the top of the
feathers are sewn over 2 rounds each. legs to the bottom of the body, over rounds 40 and
• Pin the wings to the body, starting from round 22, 41, approx. 6 stitches apart at the front (picture 25).
matching the stripes pattern on both wings & body. Make sure that the position of the feet allows the
Sew only the straight vertical side to the body, hoopoe to sit and that the toes are pointing up.
Urbano the hoopoe 25
Blush THE FLAMINGO
Standing out in a crowd? Blush the flamingo
knew the feeling. Her feathers practically
screamed for attention and her long legs
always seemed to tangle up. Fluffing her vibrant
feathers, she'd wonder why she stood out so
much. Turns out, the pink is from her yummy
algae and shrimp diet. And standing on one leg
isn’t only a comfy position, but it’s also super
graceful! Blush finally stopped overthinking and
just embraced her flamingo fabulousness.

Amigurumi gallery: Scan or visit


[Link]/4902
to share pictures and find inspiration.
Blush the flamingo 27

repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st, (sc in next 3 st, inc in


next st) repeat 3 times [42]
MATERIALS Rnd 6: sc in next 6 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st)
Light worsted weight yarn (Ricorumi) in repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st, (inc in next st, sc in next
4 st) repeat 3 times [48]
l pink (Terracotta 069 – 3 balls)
Rnd 7: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st)
l light pink (Lotus 067)
repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st, (sc in next 5 st, inc in
l white (Cream 002)
next st) repeat 3 times [54]
l black (Black 060)
Rnd 8: sc in next 6 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 6 st)
l light gray (Pearl Gray 004)
B-1 / 2.5 mm crochet hook repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st, (inc in next st, sc in next
a pair of safety eyes (10 mm) 6 st) repeat 3 times [60] (picture 2)
tapestry needle Rnd 9 – 17: sc in all 60 st [60]
pins In the next round, we’ll divide the work into one part
stitch markers for the head+beak and another part for the neck.
fiberfill Rnd 18: sc in next 9 st, ch 6 (picture 3), skip 24 st,
sc in next 27 st (picture 4) [36 + 6 ch]
SKILL LEVEL
***
SIZE 14 ” / 35.5 cm tall (without legs)
Continue working around the biggest opening to shape
the head and beak (picture 5).
when made with the indicated yarn. Rnd 19: sc in next 9 st, sc in next 6 ch (picture 6),
sc in next 27 st [42] (picture 7)
Rnd 20 – 21: sc in all 42 st [42]
Rnd 22: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
Rnd 23: (sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat
HEAD AND BODY (start in pink yarn) 6 times [30]
Ch 7. Stitches are worked around both sides of the Rnd 24: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] (picture 8)
foundation chain. Tip: Work the slst in round 25 rather loosely, so it’s
Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in next not too hard to work into them in round 26.
5 ch, 5 sc in last ch. Continue on the other side of the Rnd 25: slst in all 24 st [24]
foundation chain, sc in next 4 st, 4 sc in last st [18] Change to white yarn.
(picture 1) Rnd 26: working into the slst of Rnd 25, sc in all
Rnd 2: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next 3 st) repeat 24 st [24] (pictures 9-10)
2 times [24] Rnd 27 – 29: sc in all 24 st [24]
Rnd 3: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next st, inc in next st) Rnd 30: sc in next 2 st, change to black yarn, sc in next
repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st, (sc in next st, inc in 22 st [24]
next st) repeat 3 times [30] Rnd 31 – 33: sc in all 24 st [24]
Rnd 4: sc in next 6 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) Rnd 34: dec, sc in next 6 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st)
repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st, (inc in next st, sc in repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st, dec 2 times [24]
next 2 st) repeat 3 times [36] Note: The increases in round 34 should be positioned
Rnd 5: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) towards the neck opening.
28 Blush the flamingo

24 st

1 2 3 4

NECK HEAD + BEAK


27 sc
9 ch

9 sc

5 6 7 8

9 10 11 12

13 14 15 16
Blush the flamingo 29

Rnd 35: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 19: sc in next 24 st, sc in next 6 remaining loops of
Rnd 36: dec, sc in next 18 st, dec 2 times [21] the ch [30]
Rnd 37: dec 2 times, sc in next 15 st, dec [18] Tip: You could also start round 19 by making a decrease
Rnd 38: sc in all 18 st [18] between the side of the neck and the closest stitch to
Rnd 39: dec 2 times, sc in next 12 st, dec [15] make a neat start with no hole (picture 13). Or you could
Rnd 40: dec 2 times, sc in next 9 st, dec [12] sew the little gap closed at the end, using a tapestry
Rnd 41: dec 6 times [6] needle and a scrap of pink yarn.
Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using your yarn needle, Rnd 20 – 47: sc in all 30 st [30]
weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each Sc in next 17 st to reach the center back of the neck (pic-
remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in ture 14). Mark the last stitch with a stitch marker. In the
the yarn ends. next round, we’ll make the ‘spine’ of the flamingo’s back.
Insert the safety eyes between rounds 19 and 20 of Rnd 48: ch 13, start in second ch from the hook, sc in
the head, with an interspace of 20 stitches at the front next 12 ch (picture 15), continue along round 47, sc in all
and at approx. 6 stitches from the neck opening (pic- 30 st, continue on the other side of the ch (picture 16),
ture 11). Stuff the beak and head firmly with fiberfill sc in next 12 st [54] (picture 17) Mark the last stitch with
and continue stuffing as you go. a stitch marker, this is the new beginning of the round.
Continue making the neck. Pull up a loop of pink yarn Rnd 49: 3 sc in next st, sc in next 52 st, 3 sc in next st [58]
in the first skipped stitch of round 18 (picture 12). Rnd 50: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 55 st,
Work with the head of the flamingo pointing away inc in next st [60]
from you. Rnd 51 – 67: sc in all 60 st [60] (picture 18)
Rnd 68: (sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 4 st) repeat
6 times [54]
Rnd 69: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48]
Rnd 70: (sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat
6 times [42]
Rnd 71: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
Rnd 72: (sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat
6 times [30]
Rnd 73: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 74: (sc in next st, dec, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
Rnd 75: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
Rnd 76: dec 6 times [6]
Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using your yarn needle,
weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each
remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the
yarn ends (picture 19).

WING (make 2, in light pink yarn)


Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: (3 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times [10]
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st)
30 Blush the flamingo

17 18 19 20
Rnd 17
Rnd 21
Rnd 25

21 22 23 24

25 26 27 28

repeat 2 times [14] Rnd 8 – 16: sc in all 28 st [28]


Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st) Rnd 17: BLO sc in all 28 st [28]
repeat 2 times [18] Note: The remaining front loops will be used to make
Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st) the feathers.
repeat 2 times [22] Rnd 18: sc in next 8 st, dec, sc in next 12 st, dec, sc in
Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 6 st) next 4 st [26]
repeat 2 times [26] (picture 20) Take a moment to flatten the wing (to make sure the
Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, sc in next 7 st) increases and decreases sit on the sides), then continue
repeat 2 times [28] working in the round.
Blush the flamingo 31

Rnd 19: sc in next 7 st, dec, sc in next 11 st, dec, sc in THIRD FEATHERS ROW (in light pink yarn)
next 4 st [24] Pull up a loop of light pink yarn in the front loop that sits
Rnd 20: sc in next 6 st, dec, sc in next 10 st, dec, sc in on the side of round 25. Work with the tip of the wing
next 4 st [22] pointing away from you.
Rnd 21: BLO sc in all 22 st [22] Row 1: (ch 3, 3 tr in same st, skip 2 st, slst in next st)
Rnd 22: sc in next 6 st, dec, sc in next 9 st, dec, sc in repeat 2 times [2 feathers]
next 3 st [20] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.
Rnd 23: sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in next 8 st, dec, sc in
next 3 st [18] FOOT (make 2, in light gray yarn)
Rnd 24: sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 7 st, dec, sc in Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
next 3 st [16] Rnd 2: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 3 times [9]
Rnd 25: BLO sc in all 16 st [16] In the next round, we’ll make a gap to start making
Rnd 26: sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 6 st, dec, sc in the leg later.
next 2 st [14] Rnd 3: sc in next 3 st, ch 3, skip 3 st, sc in next 3 st
Rnd 27: dec 7 times [7] [6 + 3 ch] (picture 26)
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. The wing doesn’t Rnd 4: inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, inc in next ch, sc in
need to be stuffed. next 2 ch, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st [12]
Note: Don’t worry about the staggered joining of the Rnd 5: sc in all 12 st [12]
BLO rounds, these are on the wrong side of the wing and Rnd 6: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 3 times [15]
will be hidden when the wing is sewn to the body. Rnd 7: sc in all 15 st [15]
Rnd 8: (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st) repeat 3 times [18]
FEATHERS Rnd 9: sc in all 18 st [18] (picture 27)
The feathers are worked in the remaining front loops The foot doesn’t need to be stuffed. Flatten the foot with
from rounds 17, 21 and 25 of the wings (picture 21). the last stitch on the side and work the next row through
both layers to close the opening (picture 28).
FIRST FEATHERS ROW (in light pink yarn) Closing row: sc in all 9 st, turn [9]
Pull up a loop of light pink yarn in the front loop that sits Toes: ch 2 (picture 29), dc in first st, slst in next 2 st (pic-
on the side of round 17 (picture 22). Work with the tip of ture 30), slst + ch 2 + dc in next st, skip 1 st, slst in next 2 st,
the wing pointing away from you. slst + ch 2 + dc in next st, slst in next st [3 toes]
Row 1: (ch 3, 3 tr in same st (picture 23), skip 2 st, Fasten off and weave in the yarn end (picture 31).
slst in next st (picture 24)) repeat 4 times [4 feathers] The flamingo has one straight and one bent leg, the in-
(picture 25) structions for both legs differ.
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.
STRAIGHT LEG (in light gray yarn)
SECOND FEATHERS ROW (in light pink yarn) Pull up a loop of light gray yarn in the corner stitch of the
Pull up a loop of light pink yarn in the front loop that sits gap in round 3 of the foot.
on the side of round 21. Work with the tip of the wing Rnd 1: sc in the corner st, sc in next 3 st, sc in the corner
pointing away from you. st, sc in next 3 st [8] (picture 32)
Row 1: (ch 3, 3 tr in same st, skip 2 st, slst in next st) Rnd 2 – 15: sc in all 8 st [8]
repeat 3 times [3 feathers] Tip: Work the slst in round 16 rather loosely, so it’s not
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. too hard to work into them in round 17.
32 Blush the flamingo

29 30 31 32

33 34 35 36

37 38 39 40

Rnd 16: slst in all 8 st [8] The leg can be lightly stuffed with fiberfill, but stuffing is
Rnd 17: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 4 times [12] optional.
Rnd 18 – 19: sc in all 12 st [12]
Rnd 20: (dec, sc in next st) repeat 4 times [8] BENT LEG
Tip: Work the slst in round 21 rather loosely, so it’s The lower leg and the upper leg are made separately,
not too hard to work into them in round 22. then joined together.
Rnd 21: slst in all 8 st [8]
Rnd 22 – 34: sc in all 8 st [8] LOWER LEG (in light gray yarn)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 33). Pull up a loop of light gray yarn in the corner stitch of
Blush the flamingo 33

the gap in round 3 of the foot. Rnd 2 – 13: sc in all 8 st [8]


Rnd 1: sc in the corner st, sc in next 3 st, sc in the corner Rnd 14: put the lower leg next to the upper leg (picture
st, sc in next 3 st [8] 34), sc in next 2 st through both legs (picture 35) (these
Rnd 2 – 15: sc in all 8 st [8] stitches don’t count for the stitch total), sc in next 6 st of
Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. the upper leg, sc in next 6 st of the lower leg [12]
Rnd 15: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 4 times [8] (picture 36)
UPPER LEG (in light gray yarn) Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. The leg doesn’t need to
Leave a long starting yarn tail, it will be used to sew the be stuffed. Using your yarn needle, weave the yarn
leg to the body. tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and
Ch 8 and join with a slst in the first ch to make a circle. pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn ends (picture 37).
Rnd 1: sc in all 8 ch [8]
ASSEMBLY
• Use black yarn to embroider a vertical line on both
sides of the beak, over the white part.
• Pin the wings to rounds 49 to 61 of the body, with the
feathers pointing towards the back (pictures 38-39).
Sew the wings to the body, starting from the magic
ring, up to the center top of the wing. Leave the bottom
and back side unsewn.
• Sew the top of the legs to the bottom of the body, over
rounds 72-74, approx. 3 stitches apart at the front
(picture 40). Make sure the feet are pointing forwards.
Tip: Use sewing pins to try different leg positions
before sewing them in place!
Celeste the Budgie

Sole
the Cockatiel

Celeste, a vibrant blue budgie, and Sole, a sleek cockatiel, happily live
together in a bakery in the busy city center. They spend the days doing
what they like the most: observing the people that distractedly pass in
and out of the shop. They do tricks and make sounds to catch their
attention and it may happen that a seed or some berries disappear
from the top of a muffin. That bakery is more than just a home, it’s
their stage, their playground, their very own slice of sweet city life.

Amigurumi gallery: Scan or visit


[Link]/4903
to share pictures and find inspiration.
Celeste the budgie & Sole the cockatiel 35

Rnd 8 – 12: sc in all 42 st [42]


Rnd 13: sc in next 3 st, (dec, sc in next 5 st) repeat
MATERIALS 3 times, sc in next 18 st [39]
Cockatiel: Rnd 14: sc in next 3 st, (dec, sc in next 4 st) repeat
Light worsted weight yarn (Ricorumi) in 3 times, sc in next 18 st [36]
l light yellow (Vanilla 005) Rnd 15: sc in next 3 st, (dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat
l light gray (Pearl Gray 004) 3 times, sc in next 18 st [33]
l dark gray (Slate 080) Rnd 16: sc in next 3 st, (dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat
l pink (Terracotta 069) 3 times, sc in next 18 st [30]
Rnd 17: sc in all 30 st [30]
Budgie: Change to light gray yarn for the cockatiel or turquoise
Light worsted weight yarn (Ricorumi) in yarn for the budgie.
l light yellow (Vanilla 005) Rnd 18: sc in next 3 st, (sc in next st, inc in next st,
l white (Cream 002) sc in next st) repeat 3 times, sc in next 18 st [33]
l turquoise (Turquoise 039) Rnd 19: sc in next 3 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st)
l dark gray (Slate 080) repeat 3 times, sc in next 18 st [36]
Rnd 20: sc in next 3 st, (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st,
For both birds: sc in next 2 st) repeat 3 times, sc in next 18 st [39]
B-1 / 2.5 mm crochet hook Rnd 21: sc in next 3 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 5 st)
2 pairs of safety eyes (9 mm) repeat 3 times, sc in next 18 st [42] (picture 1)
tapestry needle Rnd 22 – 31: sc in all 42 st [42]
pins Insert the safety eyes between rounds 12 and 13,
stitch markers
with an interspace of approx. 16 stitches at the front.
fiberfill
Stuff the head and body firmly with fiberfill and continue
stuffing as you go.
SKILL LEVEL
**
SIZE 5 ” / 13 cm tall when Rnd 32: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
made with the indicated yarn. Rnd 33: (sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat
6 times [30]
Rnd 34: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 35: (sc in next st, dec, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
HEAD AND BODY (start in light yellow yarn for the Rnd 36: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
cockatiel or white yarn for the budgie) Rnd 37: dec 6 times [6] (picture 2)
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using your yarn needle,
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remain-
Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] ing stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn ends.
Rnd 4: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 5: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 6 times [30] BEAK (in dark gray yarn for the cockatiel or light yellow
Rnd 6: (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st) repeat 6 times [36] yarn for the budgie)
Rnd 7: (inc in next st, sc in next 5 st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
36 Celeste the budgie & Sole the cockatiel

Rnd 2: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times [8] Note: Make sure to pull up the yarn on the opposite
Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 2 times [10] side when making the second wing, so that the last row of
(picture 3) feathers is mirrored.
The beak doesn’t need to be stuffed. Flatten the beak Work the next row through both layers to close the
with the last stitch on the side. Work the next row opening.
through both layers to close the opening (picture 4). Closing row: sc in all 15 st, turn [15] (picture 8-9)
Closing row: sc in all 5 st [5] (picture 5) Feathers row: (ch 4 (picture 10), start in third ch from
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. the hook, hdc in next 2 ch, skip 1 st on the closing row,
slst in next st (picture 11)) repeat 7 times [7 feathers]
CHEEK (make 2, in pink yarn for the cockatiel) Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends (picture 12).
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] TAIL (start in light gray yarn for the cockatiel or
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. turquoise yarn for the budgie).
Leave a long starting yarn tail for sewing. Ch 18 and join
WING (make 2, start in light gray yarn for the with a slst in the first ch to make a circle (picture 13).
cockatiel or turquoise yarn for the budgie) Rnd 1: sc in all 18 ch [18] (picture 14)
Ch 5. Stitches are worked around both sides of the Rnd 2: sc in all 18 st [18]
foundation chain. Rnd 3: (dec, sc in next 7 st) repeat 2 times [16]
Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in next Change to dark gray yarn for the cockatiel (picture 15)
3 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Continue on the other side of the or white yarn for the budgie.
foundation chain, sc in next 3 st [9] (picture 6) Stuff the tail lightly with fiberfill. Flatten the tail with the
Rnd 2: sc in next 3 st, inc in next 3 st, sc in next last stitch on the side. Work the next row through both
3 st [12] layers to close the opening.
Rnd 3: sc in next 3 st, (sc in next st, inc in next st) Closing row: sc in all 8 st (pictures 16-17), turn [8]
repeat 3 times, sc in next 3 st [15]
Rnd 4: sc in next 3 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st)
repeat 3 times, sc in next 3 st [18]
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 st, (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st)
repeat 3 times, sc in next 3 st [21]
Rnd 6: sc in next 3 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st)
repeat 3 times, sc in next 3 st [24]
Rnd 7: sc in next 3 st, (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st)
repeat 3 times, sc in next 3 st [27]
Rnd 8: sc in next 3 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 6 st)
repeat 3 times, sc in next 3 st [30]
Sc in next 2 st to reach the side (picture 7).
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.
The wing doesn’t need to be stuffed. Flatten
the wing with the last stitch on the side. Pull up
a loop of dark gray yarn for the cockatiel or white
yarn for the budgie on one side of the wing.
Celeste the budgie & Sole the cockatiel 37

1 2 3 4

5 6 7 8

9 10 11 12

13 14 15 16
38 Celeste the budgie & Sole the cockatiel

Feathers row: (ch 6, start in third ch from the hook, ASSEMBLY


hdc in next 3 ch, sc in next ch (picture 18), slst in Tip: Use sewing pins to position all the pieces before
next st on the closing row) repeat 5 times, ch 6, start in sewing them in place! (pictures 29-31)
third ch from the hook, hdc in next 3 ch, sc in next ch, • Sew the beak flatly to the head, centered between the
skip 1 st, slst in next st on the closing row [6 feathers] eyes, with the last row between rounds 9 and 10 of the
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends (picture 19). head and the tip of the beak pointing down.
• Sew the tuft to the top of the cockatiel's head.
FOOT AND LEG (make 2, start in pink yarn for the • Sew the cheeks below the cockatiel's eyes.
cockatiel or light yellow yarn for the budgie) • Use a tail of dark gray yarn to embroider some straight
Rnd 1: work the following stitches in a magic ring: stitches on the sides of the budgie's head.
(sc into the magic ring, ch 3, start in second ch from • Pin the wings to the body, starting from round 18 of
the hook, slst in next 2 ch (picture 20)) repeat 3 times, the body. Sew only the short, straight side to the body,
2 sc into the magic ring, ch 2, start in second ch from leaving the rest of the wing unsewn. The feathers point
the hook, slst in next ch, sc into the magic ring (pic- towards the front of the body.
ture 21) [6 + 4 toes] • Sew the tail to rounds 28-31 of the back of the body.
Move the toes to the front and work the next round • Sew the top of the legs to the body, over rounds 26-30,
into the sc stitches from round 1 only (picture 22). approx. 6 stitches apart at the front. Make sure that the
Rnd 2 – 3: sc in all 6 st [6] (pictures 23-24) position of the feet and tail allows the birds to sit and
Change to light gray yarn for the cockatiel or that the short toe is pointing down.
turquoise yarn for the budgie.
Rnd 4: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 3 times [9]
Rnd 5: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat
3 times [12]
Rnd 6: sc in all 12 st [12]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 25).
Stuff the foot and leg lightly with fiberfill.

FEATHER TUFT (in light yellow yarn


for the cockatiel)
Ch 7. Crochet in rows.
Row 1: start in second ch from the hook,
hdc in next 4 ch, sc in next ch, slst in
next ch, ch 6 (picture 26), start in second
ch from the hook, hdc in next 3 ch, sc in
next ch, slst in next ch (picture 27), ch 5,
start in second ch from the hook, hdc in
next 2 ch, sc in next ch, slst in next ch
[3 feathers attached at the base](picture 28)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Celeste the budgie & Sole the cockatiel 39

17 18 19 20

1 5
4
2
3

21 22 23 24

25 26 27 28

29 30 31
Magda the magpie
Magda the magpie isn't your average bird.
Sure, she might have "borrowed" a few trin-
kets here and there, but this bird’s brainy!
She can recognize herself in the reflection
of a spoon, hide away snacks and remember
their location for months (unlike me who
forgets where I put my keys down). She can
even mimic sounds like a pro, leaving every-
one wondering just where that barking dog
sound came from. Magda might have a thing
for shiny objects, but it’s her intelligence
that truly makes her shine.

Amigurumi gallery: Scan or visit


[Link]/4904
to share pictures and find inspiration.
Magda the magpie 41

Rnd 18: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 66 st,


inc in next st, sc in next st [72] (picture 5)
MATERIALS Rnd 19 – 22: sc in all 72 st [72]
Light worsted weight yarn (Ricorumi) in Change to white yarn.
l blue (Midnight Blue 035) Rnd 23 – 33: sc in all 72 st [72]
l dark blue (Navy Blue 036) Insert the safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14, with an
l white (Cream 002) interspace of approx. 14 stitches at the front (picture 6).
l light blue (Aqua 074) Rnd 34: (sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in next 5 st) repeat
B-1 / 2.5 mm crochet hook 6 times [66]
a pair of safety eyes (12 mm) Rnd 35: (sc in next 9 st, dec) repeat 6 times [60]
tapestry needle Rnd 36: (sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 4 st) repeat
pins 6 times [54]
stitch markers Rnd 37: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48]
fiberfill Rnd 38: (sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat
6 times [42]
SKILL LEVEL
**
SIZE 5.5" / 14 cm tall when made with
Rnd 39: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
Stuff the head and body firmly with fiberfill and continue
the indicated yarn. stuffing as you go.
Rnd 40: (sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat
6 times [30]
Rnd 41: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
HEAD AND BODY (start in blue yarn) Rnd 42: (sc in next st, dec, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 43: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 44: dec 6 times [6]
Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using your yarn needle,
Rnd 4: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 6 times [24] weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each
Rnd 5: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 6 times [30] remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the
Rnd 6: (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st) repeat 6 times [36] yarn ends (picture 7).
Rnd 7: (inc in next st, sc in next 5 st) repeat 6 times [42]
Rnd 8 – 15: sc in all 42 st [42] BEAK (in dark blue yarn)
In the next round, we’ll make the ‘spine’ of the Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
magpie’s back. Rnd 2: inc in next st, sc in next 5 st [7]
Rnd 16: ch 13 (picture 1), start in second ch from the Rnd 3: sc in all 7 st [7]
hook, sc in next 12 ch, continue along Rnd 15 (picture 2), Rnd 4: inc in next st, sc in next 6 st [8]
sc in all 42 st, continue on the other side of the ch (pic- Rnd 5: sc in all 8 st [8]
ture 3), sc in next 12 st [66] (picture 4) Rnd 6: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 2 times [10]
Mark the last stitch with a stitch marker, this is the Rnd 7: sc in all 10 st [10]
new beginning of the round. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the beak
Rnd 17: 3 sc in next st, sc in next 64 st, 3 sc in next st [70] lightly with fiberfill.
42 Magda the magpie

WING (make 2, start in blue yarn) The wing doesn’t need to be stuffed. Fasten off and
Ch 4. Stitches are worked around both sides of the weave in the yarn ends (picture 8).
foundation chain. The closing + feathers row is worked differently for the
Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in next left and right wing.
2 ch, 5 sc in last ch. Continue on the other side of the
foundation chain, sc in next st, 4 sc in last st [12] Flatten the left wing by folding it in half, then pull up a
Rnd 2: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next 3 st) repeat loop of light blue yarn on the side (picture 9). Work the
2 times [18] next row through both layers to close the opening.
Rnd 3: sc in next 3 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) Left wing closing row + feathers: sc in next 15 st
repeat 3 times, sc in next 3 st, (inc in next st, sc in through both layers (picture 10), continue working only
next st) repeat 3 times [24] on the layer close to you to make the feathers, (ch 4, start
Rnd 4: sc in next 3 st, (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) in third ch from the hook, hdc in next 2 ch, skip next st on
repeat 3 times, sc in next 3 st, (sc in next 2 st, inc in the wing, slst in next st on the wing) repeat
next st) repeat 3 times [30] 3 times, (ch 5, start in third ch from the hook, hdc in next
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) 3 ch, skip next st on the wing, slst in next st on the wing)
repeat 3 times, sc in next 3 st, (inc in next st, sc in repeat 3 times, (ch 4, start in third ch from the hook, hdc
next 3 st) repeat 3 times [36] in next 2 ch, skip next st on the wing, slst in next st on the
Change to light blue yarn. wing) repeat 3 times [15 + 9 feathers] (pictures 11-12)
Rnd 6: sc in next 3 st, (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.
repeat 3 times, sc in next 3 st, (sc in next 4 st, inc in
next st) repeat 3 times [42] On the right wing, we first make the feathers before
Rnd 7: sc in next 3 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 5 st) flattening the wing and closing the opening, so the color
repeat 3 times, sc in next 3 st, (inc in next st, sc in change will be on the inside of the wing.
next 5 st) repeat 3 times [48] Right wing feathers + closing row: skip 5 stitches
from Rnd 7, then pull up a loop of light blue yarn in the
6th stitch, (ch 4, start in third ch from the hook, hdc in
next 2 ch, skip next st on the wing, slst in next st on the
wing) repeat 3 times, (ch 5, start in third ch from the
hook, hdc in next 3 ch, skip next st on the wing, slst in
next st on the wing) repeat 3 times, (ch 4, start in third
ch from the hook, hdc in next 2 ch, skip next st on the
wing, slst in next st on the wing) repeat 3 times. Flatten
the right wing by folding it in half. Continue working
through both layers to close the opening, sc in next 15 st
[15 + 9 feathers] (picture 13)
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.

EXTRA FEATHER LAYER FOR THE LEFT WING


(in white yarn)
Crochet in rows.
Row 1: (ch 5, start in third ch from the hook, hdc in next
Magda the magpie 43

1 2 3 4

5 6 7 8

9 10 11 12

9 10 11 12
44 Magda the magpie

3 ch) repeat 2 times, ch 6, start in third ch from the Rnd 9: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 2 times [14]
hook, hdc in next 4 ch [3 feathers attached at the base] Rnd 10 – 13: sc in all 14 st [14]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The tail doesn’t
need to be stuffed.
EXTRA FEATHER LAYER FOR THE RIGHT
WING (in white yarn) FOOT (make 2)
Crochet in rows. Start by making 3 toes for each foot, we’ll later join them
Row 1: ch 6, start in third ch from the hook, hdc in next together to make the foot.
4 ch, (ch 5, start in third ch from the hook, hdc in next 3
ch) repeat 2 times [3 feathers attached at the base] Middle toe (make 1 for each foot, 2 in total, in dark
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing (picture 14). blue yarn)
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
TAIL (start in light blue yarn) Rnd 2 – 5: sc in all 6 st [6]
Ch 7. Stitches are worked around both sides of the Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. The toes don’t need
foundation chain. to be stuffed.
Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in next
5 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Continue on the other side of the Side toe (make 2 for each foot, 4 in total, in dark
foundation chain, sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in last st [14] blue yarn)
Rnd 2: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [16] Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 3 – 8: sc in all 16 st [16] Rnd 2 – 4: sc in all 6 st [6]
Change to blue yarn. Fasten off on the first side toe and weave in the yarn end.
Don’t fasten off on the second side toe. The toes don’t
need to be stuffed. In the next round, we’ll join the toes
together.

Joining the toes (in dark blue yarn)


(You can find extra step-by-step pictures on page 71 –
in the pattern of the saw-whet owl)
Rnd 1: sc in next 4 st of the second side toe, sc in
next 2 st of the middle toe, sc in next 5 st of the first
side toe, skip last st of this toe, skip next st of the
middle toe, sc in next 2 st of the middle toe, skip last
st of this toe, skip next st of the second side toe, sc in
next st of the second side toe [14] (picture 14)
Note: There are little gaps between the toes, but since
the toes remain unstuffed and flat, they are invisible.
Rnd 2: (dec, sc in next 5 st) repeat 2 times [12]
In the next round, we’ll make a gap to start making the
leg later.
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 st, ch 3, skip 3 st, sc in next 7 st
[9 + 3 ch]
Magda the magpie 45

Joining starts here


10 11 12 13 14 1

9 2

8 7 6 5 4 3

1st SIDE MIDDLE 2nd SIDE


TOE TOE TOE

Legend: single crochet


13 14 15

15 16 19 20 23 24
17 18 21 22
14 25

26
13

Joining starts here


16 12 17 18 19
9 8 5 4 1
11 10 7 6 3 2

FIRST SECOND THIRD


FEATHER FEATHER FEATHER
Rnd 4: dec, sc in next 3 ch, sc in next st, dec, sc in next sewing them in place!
4 st [10] Legend: single crochet • Sew the beak to the head, between rounds 12 and 15,
Rnd 5: dec 5 times [5] centered between the eyes.
Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. The foot doesn’t need to • Sew the extra layer of feathers between the wing
be stuffed. Using your yarn needle, weave the yarn tail feathers, then sew the base of the three feather layers
through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull together with a few stitches (picture 16).
it tight to close. Weave in the yarn ends (picture 15). • Pin the wings to the body, starting from round 22.
Sew only the straight, long side of the wing to round
LEG (in dark blue yarn) 22 of the body,
Rnd 10
leaving the rest of the wing loose. The
Pull up a loop of dark blue yarn in the corner stitch feathers sit Rnd
towards
9 the back of the body (pictures
from the gap in round 3 of the foot. 17-18).
Legend: single crochet single crochet increase
Rnd 1: sc in the corner st, sc in next 3 st, sc in the • Sew the tail to rounds 17-19 of the back of the body
corner st, sc in next 3 st [8] (picture 18).
Rnd 2 – 7: sc in all 8 st [8] • Sew the top of the legs to the bottom of the body,
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The leg can be over rounds 39 and 40, approx. 5 stitches apart at
lightly stuffed with fiberfill, but stuffing is optional. the front (picture 19). Make sure that the position of
the feet allows the magpie to sit and that the toes are
ASSEMBLY pointing up.
Tip: Use sewing pins to position all the pieces before
Pip Berry
the kiwi
the pink robin
Berry, Pip, and Neve found their unlikely friendship on a playground swing set. Berry, the
pink robin, wasn't shy about her eye-catching fuchsia chest and bright, curious eyes. Pip, the
kiwi, couldn't fly on his tiny wings, but that didn't stop him from challenging them to speed
races! And Neve, the shima enaga, stole the show with her non-stop chirping. They might
have come from different corners of the world (Australia, New Zealand, and Japan,
respectively!), with different interests and personalities, but that's what makes their bond so
special.

Neve the Shima Enaga

Amigurumi gallery: Scan or visit


[Link]/4905
to share pictures and find inspiration.
Pip the kiwi, Neve the shima enaga and Berry the pink robin 47

MATERIALS
Pink Robin Note: To make the birds in the book, I’ve worked the
Light worsted weight yarn (Ricorumi) in pattern while holding a Light worsted weight cotton yarn
l gray (Slate 080) and a Lace weight mohair yarn together, for an extra fluffy
l pink (Candy Pink 012) look. If you prefer to make the patterns in Light worsted
l dark blue (Navy Blue 036) weight yarn only, you can simply ignore the mentions of
Lace weight mohair (Rico Essential Mohair) in mohair yarn.
l light gray (Silver 008)
l fuchsia (Fuchsia 021) HEAD AND BODY
(Pink Robin: start in gray yarn + light gray mohair
Kiwi Kiwi: in brown yarn + light brown mohair
Light worsted weight yarn (Ricorumi) in Shima Enaga: in white yarn + white mohair)
l brown (Light Brown 052) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
l beige (Beige 054) Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
Lace weight mohair (Rico Essential Mohair) in
Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
l light brown (Gray Brown 058) Rnd 4: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 5: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 6 times [30]
Shima Enaga
Light worsted weight yarn (Ricorumi) in Rnd 6: (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st) repeat 6 times [36]
Rnd 7 – 10: sc in all 36 st [36]
l white (Cream 002)
l gray (Slate 080) In the next round, we’ll make the ‘spine’ of the bird’s back.
l light brown (Nougat 056 – leftover) Rnd 11: ch 7 (picture 1), start in second ch from the
Lace weight mohair (Rico Essential Mohair) in hook, sc in next 6 ch, continue along Rnd 10 (picture 2),
l white (White 001) sc in all 36 st, continue on the other side of the ch (pic-
l light gray (Silver 008) ture 3), sc in next 6 st [48] (picture 4)
l beige (Caramel 045 – leftover) Mark the last stitch with a stitch marker, this is the new
beginning of the round.
For the birds trio Rnd 12: 3 sc in next st, sc in next 46 st, 3 sc in next st [52]
B-1 / 2.5 mm crochet hook (when working Rnd 13: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 48 st, inc in
in Light worsted weight yarn) or C-2 / 3 mm next st, sc in next st [54] (picture 5)
crochet hook (when working in Light worsted Rnd 14 – 16: sc in all 54 st [54] (picture 6)
weight yarn + mohair yarn held together)
Pink Robin: change to pink yarn + fuchsia mohair.
3 pairs of safety eyes (12 mm)
Rnd 17 – 22: sc in all 54 st [54] (picture 7)
tapestry needle
Optional: Use a wire brush to gently brush the body for
pins
a fluffier look (picture 8).
stitch markers
Tip: If you’re going to brush the body after inserting the
fiberfill
safety eyes, cover them with a piece of washi tape so they
wire brush (optional)
don’t get scratched.
Insert the safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, with an
SKILL LEVEL
*
SIZE 4.75" / 12 cm tall when made with interspace of approx. 12 stitches at the front (picture 9).
the indicated yarn. Rnd 23: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48]
48 Pip the kiwi, Neve the shima enaga and Berry the pink robin

Rnd 24: (sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat Row 4: ch 1, BLO sc in all 3 st, turn [3]
6 times [42] Row 5: ch 1, skip 1 st, sc in next 2 st, turn [2]
Rnd 25: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36] Row 6: ch 1, skip 1 st, sc in next st [1]
Rnd 26: (sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 11).
6 times [30] Weave in the starting yarn tail. Use a tapestry needle to
Rnd 27: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] pass the ending yarn tail through the side stitches until
Stuff the head and body firmly with fiberfill and Row 4, where the beak naturally bends (picture 12).
continue stuffing as you go. We'll use this yarn tail for sewing later.
Rnd 28: (sc in next st, dec, sc in next st) repeat
6 times [18] KIWI (in beige yarn)
Rnd 29: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
Rnd 30: dec 6 times [6] Rnd 2: inc in next st, sc in next 4 st [6]
Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using your yarn needle, Rnd 3 – 6: sc in all 6 st [6]
weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each Rnd 7: inc in next st, sc in next 5 st [7]
remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in Rnd 8 – 10: sc in all 7 st [7]
the yarn ends (picture 10). Rnd 11: inc in next st, sc in next 6 st [8]
Rnd 12 – 13: sc in all 8 st [8]
BEAK Rnd 14: inc in next st, sc in next 7 st [9]
The beak differs for each bird. Rnd 15: sc in all 9 st [9]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The beak
PINK ROBIN (in dark blue yarn) doesn’t need to be stuffed.
Ch 2. Crochet in rows.
Row 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in next SHIMA ENAGA (in gray yarn)
ch, turn [1] Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Row 2: ch 1, 3 sc in next st, turn [3] Rnd 2: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times [8]
Row 3: ch 1, sc in all 3 st, turn [3] Rnd 3: sc in all 8 st [8]
Pip the kiwi, Neve the shima enaga and Berry the pink robin 49

1 2 3 4

5 6 7 8

9 10 11 12

13 14 15
50 Pip the kiwi, Neve the shima enaga and Berry the pink robin

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the beak half with the last stitch on the side. Work the next row
lightly with fiberfill. through both layers to close the opening (picture 14).
Closing row: sc in all 12 st [12]
WING Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 15).
(Pink Robin: make 2, in gray yarn + light gray mohair;
Shima Enaga: make 2, start in light brown + beige TAIL
mohair) (Pink Robin: in gray yarn + light gray mohair;
Shima Enaga: start in gray yarn + light gray mohair)
Kiwi fact: Kiwi’s in fact have tiny wings, but since
they can’t fly, I’ve chosen to leave out the wings Kiwi fact: Kiwi’s don’t have tails.
for this bird.
Ch 5. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foun-
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] dation chain.
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in next
Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] 3 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Continue on the other side of the
Shima Enaga: change to gray yarn + light gray mohair. foundation chain, sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in last st [10]
Rnd 4: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 6 times Rnd 2 – 6: sc in all 10 st [10]
[24] (picture 13) Shima Enaga: change to white yarn + white mohair.
The wing doesn’t need to be stuffed. Fold the wing in Rnd 7: sc in all 10 st [10]
Pip the kiwi, Neve the shima enaga and Berry the pink robin 51

16 17 18 19

20 21 22

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The tail between the toes (picture 18-19). Weave in the yarn ends.
doesn’t need to be stuffed.
ASSEMBLY
LEG Tip: Use sewing pins to position all the pieces before
(Pink Robin: make 2, in dark blue yarn; sewing them in place! (pictures 20-22)
Kiwi: make 2, in beige yarn; Tip: You can use both the cotton and mohair yarn tails
Shima Enaga: make 2, in gray yarn) together for sewing, or you can opt to use only a single
Leave a long starting yarn tail. yarn tail.
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] • Sew the beak to the head, centered between the eyes,
Bring the yarn tail to the outside of the work, it will be over rounds 8 and 9. For the Pink Robin, sew the re-
used to sew the leg to the body later (picture 16). maining front loops of Row 4 of the beak to the head,
Rnd 2 – 9: sc in all 6 st [6] to create an open beak.
Rnd 10: slst in next st, (ch 4, start in second ch • Sew the wings to the sides of the body, between rounds
from the hook, slst in next 3 ch, slst in next st on 15 and 16.
Rnd 9) repeat 3 times, slst in next st, ch 3, start in • Sew the tail to rounds 12-14 of the back of the body.
second ch from the hook, slst in next 2 ch, slst in • Pin the top of the legs to the bottom of the body, over
next st on the foot [4 toes] (picture 17) rounds 28 and 29, approx. 3 stitches apart at the front
Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. The leg doesn’t need (picture 22). Make sure that the position of the feet allows
to be stuffed. Use a tapestry needle to close the gap the bird to sit and that the little toe is pointing down.
Duca the mallard might turn a
few heads, with his bright green
head and elegant white collar, but
he’s also very skilled. He can zip
through the water to catch his lunch
in a flash and takes flight faster than
you can say "quack!". He isn't picky
when it comes to a place to live, just
give him a decent-sized lake, a river
or a comfy backyard pond … As long
as there are tasty water plants to
snack on, Duca will be happy!

Duca
the mallard

Amigurumi gallery: Scan or visit


[Link]/4906
to share pictures and find inspiration.
Duca the mallard 53

(picture 3), sc in all 42 st, continue on the other side of


the foundation chain (picture 4), sc in next 12 st [66]
MATERIALS (picture 5)
Light worsted weight yarn (Ricorumi) in Mark the last stitch with a stitch marker, this is the new
beginning of the round.
l green (Fir Green 050)
Rnd 20: 3 sc in next st, sc in next 64 st, 3 sc in next st [70]
l white (White 001)
Rnd 21: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 66 st, inc in
l brown (Light Brown 052 – 2 balls)
next st, sc in next st [72]
l beige (Beige 054)
Rnd 22 – 36: sc in all 72 st [72]
l yellow (Saffron 063)
Insert the safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14, with an
l orange (Fox 025)
B-1 / 2.5 mm crochet hook interspace of approx. 14 stitches at the front (picture 6).
a pair of safety eyes (12 mm) Rnd 37: (sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in next 5 st) repeat
tapestry needle 6 times [66]
pins Rnd 38: (sc in next 9 st, dec) repeat 6 times [60]
stitch markers Rnd 39: (sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 4 st) repeat
fiberfill 6 times [54]
Rnd 40: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48]
SKILL LEVEL
*
SIZE 6 ” / 15 cm tall and 6.5 “ / 16 cm long
Rnd 41: (sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat
6 times [42]
when made with the indicated yarn. Rnd 42: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
Stuff the head and body firmly with fiberfill and continue
stuffing as you go.
Rnd 43: (sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat
HEAD AND BODY (start in green yarn) 6 times [30]
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 44: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 45: (sc in next st, dec, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 46: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
Rnd 4: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 47: dec 6 times [6]
Rnd 5: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 6 times [30] Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using your yarn needle,
Rnd 6: (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st) repeat 6 times [36] weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each
Rnd 7: (inc in next st, sc in next 5 st) repeat 6 times [42] remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the
Rnd 8 – 16: sc in all 42 st [42] yarn ends.
Change to white yarn.
Rnd 17 – 18: sc in all 42 st [42] (picture 1) BEAK (in yellow yarn)
Change to brown yarn. Ch 7. Stitches are worked around both sides of the
In the next round, we’ll make the ‘spine’ of the foundation chain.
mallard’s back. Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in next 5 ch,
Rnd 19: ch 13 (picture 2), start in second ch from 3 sc in last ch. Continue on the other side of the foun­
the hook, sc in next 12 ch, continue along Rnd 18 dation chain, sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in last st [14]
54 Duca the mallard

Rnd 3: sc in next 3 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat


3 times, sc in next 3 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st)
repeat 3 times [24]
Rnd 4: sc in next 3 st, (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st)
repeat 3 times, sc in next 3 st, (sc in next 2 st, inc in next
st) repeat 3 times [30]
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st)
repeat 3 times, sc in next 3 st, (inc in next st, sc in
next 3 st) repeat 3 times [36]
Rnd 6: sc in next 3 st, (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st)
repeat 3 times, sc in next 3 st, (sc in next 4 st, inc in next
st) repeat 3 times [42] (picture 7)
The wing doesn’t need to be stuffed. Fasten off and
weave in the yarn ends. Fold the wing in half (picture 8)
and pull up a loop of beige yarn on the side. Work the
next row through both layers to close the opening. The
closing + feathers row is worked differently for the left
and right wing.
Left wing closing + feathers row: sc in next 14 st (pic-
Rnd 2: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [16] ture 9-10), (slst + ch 2 + 2 dc in next st (picture 11), skip
Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 16 st [16] next st) repeat 3 times, slst in next st [24] (picture 12)
Rnd 5: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [18]
Rnd 6 – 7: sc in all 18 st [18]
Rnd 8: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [20]
Rnd 9: sc in all 20 st [20]
Rnd 10: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [22]
Rnd 11: sc in all 22 st [22]
Rnd 12: (sc in next 10 st, inc in next st) repeat
2 times [24]
Rnd 13: sc in all 24 st [24]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the
beak with fiberfill.

WING (make 2, in beige yarn)


Ch 4. Stitches are worked around both sides of the
foundation chain.
Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in next
2 ch, 5 sc in last ch. Continue on the other side of the
foundation chain, sc in next st, 4 sc in last st [12]
Rnd 2: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next 3 st) repeat
2 times [18]
Duca the mallard 55

1 2 3 4

5 6 7 8

9 10 11 12

13 14 15 16
56 Duca the mallard

Right wing feathers + closing row: start by Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 18).
making the feathers, ch 2 (picture 13)+ 2 dc in first st Stuff the leg lightly with fiberfill.
(picture 14), skip next st, (slst + ch 2 + 2 dc in next st,
skip next st) repeat 2 times (picture 15), slst in next FOOT (make 2, in orange yarn)
st, sc in next 14 st (picture 16) [23] Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing (picture 17). Rnd 2: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 3 times [9]
Rnd 3: sc in all 9 st [9]
TAIL (in brown yarn) Rnd 4: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 3 times [12]
Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Rnd 5: sc in all 12 st [12]
Rnd 2: inc in all 8 st [16] Rnd 6: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 3 times [15]
Rnd 3 – 6: sc in all 16 st [16] Rnd 7: sc in all 15 st [15]
Rnd 7: (dec 2 times, sc in next 4 st) repeat 2 times [12] Rnd 8: (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st) repeat 3 times [18]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The tail Rnd 9: sc in all 18 st [18] (picture 19)
doesn’t need to be stuffed. The foot doesn’t need to be stuffed. Flatten the foot by
folding it in half, with the last stitch on the side. Work
LEG (make 2, in orange yarn) the next row through both layers to close the opening.
Leave a long starting yarn tail. Closing row and toes: ch 2 + dc in first st, slst in
Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] next 2 st (picture 20), slst + ch 2 + dc in next st, skip
Bring the starting yarn tail to the outside of the work, 1 st, slst in next 2 st, slst + ch 2 + dc in next st, slst in
it will be used to sew the leg to the body later. next st [3 toes]
Rnd 2 – 8: sc in all 8 st [8] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends (picture 21).
Duca the mallard 57

17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24

25 26 27

ASSEMBLY
• Sew the beak to the head, between rounds 11 and • Sew the last round of the leg to the foot (picture 25).
15, centered between the eyes. Then sew the top of the legs to the bottom of the body,
• Pin the wings to the body, starting from round 26. Sew over rounds 40 and 41, approx. 8 stitches apart at the
only the straight top edge to the body, leaving the last front (picture 26). Make sure that the position of the feet
few cm / inch of the wing unsewn (pictures 22-23). allows the mallard to sit and that the feet are pointing up
• Sew the tail to rounds 20-21 of the back of the body (picture 27).
(picture 24).
Viola THE pigeon
Viola the pigeon has a passion for the past,
particularly the history of her kind. Unlike her
feathery friends who are content just chasing
crumbs and people-watching, Viola craves
knowledge. From bustling city squares and
quiet parks to remote sea cliffs, pigeons
have been everywhere. They even carried
important messages in times gone by! She
dreams of uncovering the secrets of pigeon
history, one coo at a time, and sharing them
with the flock gathered on the windowsill.

Amigurumi gallery: Scan or visit


[Link]/4907
to share pictures and find inspiration.
Viola the pigeon 59

Rnd 14: (inc in next st, sc in next 13 st) repeat


3 times [45]
Rnd 15 – 16: sc in all 45 st [45]
MATERIALS Rnd 17: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st, sc in next 7 st)
Light worsted weight yarn (Ricorumi) in repeat 3 times [48]
l dark gray (Slate 080) Rnd 18 – 19: sc in all 48 st [48]
l gray (Gray 079 – 2 balls) Change to gray yarn.
l yellow (Mustard 064 – leftover) In the next round, we’ll make the ‘spine’ of the pigeon’s
l pink (Clay 066) back.
l teal (Teal 040 – leftover) Rnd 20: ch 10 (picture 1), start in second ch from the
l purple (Purple 020 – leftover) hook, sc in next 9 ch, continue along Rnd 19 (picture 2),
Tip: You could use purple and teal
sc in all 48 st, continue on the other side of the ch (pic-
embroidery thread instead.
ture 3), sc in next 9 st [66] (picture 4)
B-1 / 2.5 mm crochet hook
Mark the last stitch with a stitch marker, this is the new
a pair of safety eyes (12 mm)
beginning of the round.
tapestry needle
Rnd 21: 3 sc in next st, sc in next 64 st, 3 sc in next st [70]
pins
Rnd 22: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 66 st,
stitch markers
inc in next st, sc in next st [72] (picture 5)
fiberfill
Rnd 23 – 37: sc in all 72 st [72]
SKILL LEVEL
*
SIZE 6.25" / 16 cm tall when made with the
Insert the safety eyes between rounds 14 and 15, with an
interspace of approx. 14 stitches at the front (picture 6).
indicated yarn. Rnd 38: (sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in next 5 st) repeat
6 times [66]
Rnd 39: (sc in next 9 st, dec) repeat 6 times [60]
Rnd 40: (sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 4 st) repeat
HEAD AND BODY (start in dark gray yarn) 6 times [54]
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 41: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48]
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 42: (sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat
Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] 6 times [42]
Rnd 4: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 43: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
Rnd 5: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 44: (sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat
Rnd 6: (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st) repeat 6 times [36] 6 times [30]
Rnd 7: sc in all 36 st [36] Stuff the head and body firmly with fiberfill and
Rnd 8: (inc in next st, sc in next 11 st) repeat 3 continue stuffing as you go.
times [39] Rnd 45: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 9 – 10: sc in all 39 st [39] Rnd 46: (sc in next st, dec, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
Rnd 11: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st, sc in next 6 st) Rnd 47: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
repeat 3 times [42] Rnd 48: dec 6 times [6]
Rnd 12 – 13: sc in all 42 st [42] Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using your yarn needle,
60 Viola the pigeon

weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each 5 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Continue on the other side of the
remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in foun­dation chain, sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in last st [14]
the yarn ends. Rnd 2: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [16]
Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 16 st [16]
BEAK (in yellow yarn) Change to gray yarn.
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 5: sc in all 16 st [16]
Rnd 2: inc in next st, sc in next 5 st [7] Change to dark gray yarn.
Rnd 3: sc in all 7 st [7] Rnd 6: sc in all 16 st [16]
Rnd 4: inc in next st, sc in next 6 st [8] Change to gray yarn.
Rnd 5: sc in all 8 st [8] Rnd 7: (dec, sc in next 6 st) repeat 2 times [14]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the Rnd 8 – 9: sc in all 14 st [14]
beak lightly with fiberfill. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the tail
lightly with fiberfill.
WING (make 2, start in gray yarn)
Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] FOOT (make 2)
Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Note: Alternatively, you can opt to follow the instruc-
Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] tions for the Hoopoe's foot for an easier foot construction.
Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next st) Start by making 3 toes for each foot, we’ll later join
repeat 5 times [20] them together to make the foot.
Rnd 5 – 12: sc in all 20 st [20]
Change to dark gray yarn. Middle toe (make 1 for each foot, 2 in total, in pink yarn)
Rnd 13: sc in all 20 st [20] Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 14: dec, sc in next 18 st [19] Rnd 2 – 5: sc in all 6 st [6]
Change to gray yarn.
Rnd 15: dec, sc in next 17 st [18]
Rnd 16: dec, sc in next 16 st [17]
Change to dark gray yarn.
Rnd 17: dec, sc in next 15 st [16]
Rnd 18: dec, sc in next 14 st [15]
Change to gray yarn.
Rnd 19: (dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat 3 times [12]
Rnd 20: (dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat 3 times [9]
Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. The wing doesn’t need
to be stuffed. Using your yarn needle, weave the yarn
tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch
and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn ends.

TAIL (start in dark gray yarn)


Ch 7. Stitches are worked around both sides of the
foundation chain.
Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in next
Viola the pigeon 61

1 2 3 4

Joining starts here


10 11 12 13 14 1

9 2

8 7 6 5 4 3

1st SIDE MIDDLE 2nd SIDE


TOE TOE TOE

Legend: single crochet


5 6 7

15 16 19 20 23 24
17 18 21 22
14 25

26
13

Joining starts here


8 9 12 10 11
9 8 5 4 1
11 10 7 6 3 2

FIRST SECOND THIRD


FEATHER FEATHER FEATHER

Legend: single crochet

12 13 14 15

Rnd 10
Rnd 9

Legend: single crochet single crochet increase


62 Viola the pigeon

Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. The toes don’t Note: There are little gaps between the toes, but since
need to be stuffed. the toes remain unstuffed and flat, they are invisible.
Rnd 2: (dec, sc in next 5 st) repeat 2 times [12]
Side toe (make 2 for each foot, 4 in total, in pink In the next round, we’ll make a gap to start making the
yarn) leg later.
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 3: sc in next 2 st, ch 3, skip 3 st, sc in next 7 st
Rnd 2 – 4: sc in all 6 st [6] [9 + 3 ch]
Fasten off on the first side toe and weave in the yarn Rnd 4: dec, sc in next 3 ch, sc in next st, dec, sc in next 4
end. Don’t fasten off on the second side toe. The toes st [10]
don’t need to be stuffed. In the next round we’ll join Rnd 5: dec 5 times [5]
the toes together. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. The foot doesn’t need to
be stuffed. Using your yarn needle, weave the yarn tail
Joining the toes (in pink yarn) through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it
(You can find extra step-by-step pictures on page 71 – tight to close. Weave in the yarn ends.
in the pattern of the saw-whet owl)
Rnd 1: sc in next 4 st of the second side toe, sc in LEG (in pink yarn)
next 2 st of the middle toe, sc in next 5 st of the first Pull up a loop of pink yarn in the corner stitch from the
side toe, skip last st of this toe, skip 1 st of the middle gap in round 3 of the foot.
toe, sc in next 2 st of the middle toe, skip last st of the Rnd 1: sc in the corner st, sc in next 3 st, sc in the
middle toe, skip next st of the second side toe, sc in corner st, sc in next 3 st [8]
next st of the second side toe [14] (picture 7) Rnd 2 – 7: sc in all 8 st [8]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 8).
The leg can be lightly stuffed with fiberfill, but stuffing is
optional.

ASSEMBLY
• Sew the beak to the head, between rounds 14 and 16,
centered between the eyes (picture 9).
• Pin the wings to the body, starting from round 26.
Sew only the curved side to the body, leaving the rest of
the wing unsewn (pictures 10-11).
• Sew the tail to rounds 20-21 of the back of the body
(picture 12).
• Sew the top of the legs to the bottom of the body,
over rounds 42 and 43, approx. 6 stitches apart at the
front (pictures 13-14). Make sure that the position of
the feet allows the pigeon to sit and that the toes are
pointing up.
• Use purple and teal yarn or embroidery thread to em-
broider random vertical lines over rounds 18-23 (picture
15). Each stitch can be 1 or 2 rounds long.
Viola the pigeon 63
Button
the Saw-Whet Owl
Button the saw-whet owl is the
world's smallest owl, blending in
seamlessly with the tree bark using
her camouflage feathers, just like a
ninja or a hide-and-seek champion!
Her name might sound a bit funny
(it’s inspired by her high-pitched call),
but her skills are superb, from strong
hearing and night vision to a neck that
contorts like a yoga master's. Button
rules the darkness, hunting with silent
precision. And instead of building a
brand-new nest, she goes for a cozy,
pre-furnished woodpecker hole.
Lazy or eco-conscious? You decide!

Amigurumi gallery: Scan or visit


[Link]/4908
to share pictures and find inspiration.
Button the saw-whet owl 65

MATERIALS
Light worsted weight yarn (Ricorumi) in
l brown (Nougat 056 – 2 balls)
l speckled beige (Spray beige 008 – 2 balls)
l white (Cream 002)
l dark yellow (Mustard 064)
l dark blue (Midnight Blue 035 – leftover)
B-1 / 2.5 mm crochet hook
a pair of safety eyes (18 mm)
tapestry needle
pins
stitch markers
fiberfill

SKILL LEVEL
***
SIZE 6" / 15 cm tall (without legs) HEAD (in brown yarn)
when made with the indicated yarn. Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8]
Rnd 2: inc in all 8 st [16]
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 8 times [24]
Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat
EYE PATCH (make 2, start in dark yellow yarn) 8 times [32]
Rnd 1: start 10 sc in a magic ring [10] When tightening Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 8 times [40]
the ring, a small hole should remain in the center. Rnd 6: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st)
Rnd 2: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] repeat 8 times [48]
Rnd 3: slst in all 15 st [15] Rnd 7 – 9: sc in all 48 st [48]
Fasten off and weave in the ending yarn tail (picture 1). Rnd 10: (sc in next 15 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [51]
Pull up a loop of white yarn in any stitch from round Rnd 11 – 13: sc in all 51 st [51]
2. Work the next round in the round 2 stitches, leaving Rnd 14: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st, sc in next 8 st)
the round 3 slst sitting on the right side of the work repeat 3 times [54]
(picture 2). In the next round, we make gaps to fit the stem of the
Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat safety eyes in.
5 times [20] Rnd 15: sc in next 21 st, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next
Rnd 5: ch 2, (hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st) repeat 10 st, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 21 st [54]
10 times [30] Rnd 16 – 17: sc in all 54 st [54]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Insert the Rnd 18: (sc in next 17 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [57]
safety eye in the center of the magic ring, then tighten Rnd 19: sc in all 57 st [57] (picture 4)
the ring (picture 3). Don’t close the washers yet. Rnd 20: FLO sc in all 57 st [57] (picture 5)
66 Button the saw-whet owl

Rnd 21: crab st in all 57 st [57] (picture 6 - tutorial 8 times [24]


page 16) Rnd 25: (dec, sc in next st) repeat 8 times [16]
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Rnd 26: dec 8 times [8]
Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using your yarn needle,
BODY (in speckled beige yarn) weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each
Pull up a loop of speckled beige yarn in the last re­- remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the
maining back loop of round 20 of the head (picture 7). yarn ends (picture 10).
Work with the top of the head pointing away from you.
Rnd 1: BLO (sc in next 9 st, skip next st, sc in next 9 st) BEAK (in dark blue yarn)
repeat 3 times [54] (picture 8) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
Rnd 2: sc in all 54 st [54] Rnd 2: inc in next st, sc in next 4 st [6]
Rnd 3: (sc in next 17 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [57] Rnd 3: inc in next st, sc in next 5 st [7]
Rnd 4: sc in all 57 st [57] Rnd 4: inc in next st, sc in next 6 st [8]
Rnd 5: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st, sc in next 9 st) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the beak
repeat 3 times [60] lightly with fiberfill.
Rnd 6: sc in all 60 st [60]
Place the eye patches on the head and insert the WING (make 2, start in brown yarn)
safety eyes through the gaps in round 15. Close the Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
washers. Use the white yarn tail or white sewing Rnd 2: sc in next st, inc in next 3 st, sc in next st [8]
thread to sew the eye patches on, all around the base Rnd 3: sc in next st, (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat
of the hdc stitches of round 5 (picture 9). Stuff the 3 times, sc in next st [11]
head and body with fiberfill and continue stuffing as Rnd 4: sc in next st, (sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in
you go. next st) repeat 3 times, sc in next st [14]
Rnd 7: (sc in next 19 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [63] Rnd 5: sc in next st, (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat
Rnd 8: sc in all 63 st [63] 3 times, sc in next st [17]
Rnd 9: (sc in next 10 st, inc in next st, sc in next 10 st) Rnd 6: sc in next st, (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in
repeat 3 times [66] next 2 st) repeat 3 times, sc in next st [20]
Rnd 10: sc in all 66 st [66] Rnd 7: sc in next st, (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat
Rnd 11: (sc in next 21 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [69] 3 times, sc in next st [23]
Rnd 12: sc in all 69 st [69] Rnd 8: sc in next st, (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in
Rnd 13: (sc in next 11 st, inc in next st, sc in next 11 st) next 3 st) repeat 3 times, sc in next st [26] (picture 11)
repeat 3 times [72] Pull up a loop of speckled beige yarn and work round 9 and
Rnd 14 – 18: sc in all 72 st [72] 10 with brown and speckled beige yarn to make a smooth
Rnd 19: (dec, sc in next 7 st) repeat 8 times [64] color transition, following the color chart (picture 13). You
Rnd 20: (sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat can use the tapestry color change technique (page 15).
8 times [56] Rnd 9: sc in next st, (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat
Rnd 21: (dec, sc in next 5 st) repeat 8 times [48] 3 times, sc in next st [29]
Rnd 22: (sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat Rnd 10: sc in next st, (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st, sc in
8 times [40] next 4 st) repeat 3 times, sc in next st [32] (picture 12)
Rnd 23: (dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat 8 times [32] Fasten off the brown yarn and continue in speckled
Rnd 24: (sc in next st, dec, sc in next st) repeat beige yarn.
Button the saw-whet owl 67

Joining starts here


10 11 12 13 14 1

9 2

8 7 6 5 4 3

1 2
1st SIDE MIDDLE
3 2 SIDE
nd
4
TOE TOE TOE

Legend: single crochet

15 16 19 20 23 24
17 18 21 22
14 25
5 6 7 8

26
13

Joining starts here


12
9 8 5 4 1
11 10 7 6 3 2

FIRST SECOND THIRD


FEATHER FEATHER FEATHER

Legend: single crochet

9 10 11 12

Rnd 10
Rnd 9

Legend: single crochet single crochet increase

13 14
68 Button the saw-whet owl

Rnd 11: sc in next st, (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) in third ch from the hook, hdc in this ch, skip next st on
repeat 3 times, sc in next st [35] the wing, slst in next st on the wing, skip last st [19 + 13
Rnd 12: sc in next st, (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, feathers] (pictures 17-18)
sc in next 5 st) repeat 3 times, sc in next st [38] Slst in next 5 st to make a neater edge on both sides.
The wing doesn’t need to be stuffed. Fold the wing Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew along
in half, with the last stitch on the side. Work the first round 12, closing the opening under the feathers (picture
stitches of the next row through both layers to close 19), leaving the feathers unsewn. The wing doesn’t need
the opening (picture 14). to be stuffed (picture 20).
Closing row + feathers: sc in next 5 st working in
both layers, continue working only on the layer close HEAD FEATHER (make 2, in brown yarn)
to you, slst in next st, ch 3 (picture 15), start in third Crochet in rows.
ch from the hook, hdc in this ch, skip next st on the Row 1: (ch 6, start in third ch from the hook, hdc in next
wing, slst in next st on the wing (picture 16), (ch 4, 2 ch, sc in next 2 ch) repeat 3 times [3 feathers attached
start in third ch from the hook, hdc in next 2 ch, skip at the base]
next st on the wing, slst in next st on the wing) repeat Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 21).
2 times, (ch 5, start in third ch from the hook, hdc in
next 3 ch, skip next st on the wing, slst in next st on TAIL FEATHERS (make 1 in brown and 1 in speckled
the wing) repeat 7 times, (ch 4, start in third ch from beige yarn)
the hook, hdc in next 2 ch, skip next st on the wing, Ch 19. Crochet in rows.
slst in next st on the wing) repeat 2 times, ch 3, start Row 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in next
Button the saw-whet owl 69

15 16 17 18

19 20 21 22

18 ch, turn [18] Middle toe (make 1 for each foot, 2 in total, in dark
Row 2: ch 1, sc in all 18 st, turn [18] yellow yarn)
Row 3: ch 3, start in third ch from the hook, hdc in Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
this ch, slst in next st on the tail, (ch 4, start in third Rnd 2 – 5: sc in all 6 st [6]
ch from the hook, hdc in next 2 ch, skip next st on the Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. The toes don’t
tail, slst in next st on the tail) repeat 2 times, (ch 5, need to be stuffed.
start in third ch from the hook, hdc in next 3 ch, skip
next st on the tail, slst in next st on the tail) repeat Side toe (make 2 for each foot, 4 in total, in dark
3 times, (ch 4, start in third ch from the hook, hdc in yellow yarn)
next 2 ch, skip next st on the tail, slst in next st on Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
the tail) repeat 2 times, ch 3, start in third ch from Rnd 2 – 4: sc in all 6 st [6]
the hook, hdc in this ch, skip next st on the tail, slst in Fasten off on the first side toe and weave in the yarn
next st on the tail [9 feathers] end. Don’t fasten off on the second side toe. The toes
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 22). don’t need to be stuffed. In the next round we’ll join the
toes together.
FOOT (make 2)
Start by making 3 toes for each foot, we’ll later join Joining the toes (in dark yellow yarn) (picture 23)
them together to make the foot. Rnd 1: sc in next 4 st of the second side toe, sc in next
2 st of the middle toe (picture 24), sc in next 5 st of the
70 Button the saw-whet owl

first side toe, skip last st of this toe, skip next st of the feathers point towards the front. Sew only the short
middle toe, sc in next 2 st of the middle toe, skip last straight side of the wing to the body, leaving the rest of
st of this toe, skip next st of the second side toe, sc in the wing unsewn (picture 32).
next st of the second side toe [14] (picture 25) • Pin the tail feathers to the back of the body, with the
Note: There are little gaps between the toes, but brown piece below the speckled beige piece (picture
since the toes remain unstuffed and flat, they are 33). The brown piece is sewn on rounds 16-17, the
invisible (picture 26). speckled beige piece is sewn on rounds 14-15. Sew
Rnd 2: (dec, sc in next 5 st) repeat 2 times [12] along the starting chain of the pieces (picture 34).
In the next round, we’ll make a gap to start making • Pin the head feather pieces between rounds 7 and 8,
the leg later. on both sides of the head. Sew them on by making a
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 st, ch 3, skip 3 st, sc in next 7 st tiny stitch between each of the 3 feathers (picture 35).
[9 + 3 ch] (picture 27) • Sew the top of the legs to the bottom of the body,
Rnd 4: dec, sc in next 3 ch, sc in next st, dec, sc in over rounds 22 and 23, approx. 6 stitches apart at
next 4 st [10] the front (picture 36). Make sure that the position of
Rnd 5: dec 5 times [5] the feet allows the owl to sit and that the toes are
Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. The foot doesn’t need pointing up.
to be stuffed. Using your yarn needle, weave the yarn
tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch
and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn ends
(picture 28).

LEG (in dark yellow yarn)


Pull up a loop of dark yellow yarn in the corner stitch
of the gap in round 3 of the foot (picture 29).
Rnd 1: sc in the corner st, sc in next 3 st, sc in the
corner st, sc in next 3 st [8] (picture 30)
Rnd 2 – 7: sc in all 8 st [8]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 31).
The leg can be lightly stuffed with fiberfill, but stuff-
ing is optional.

ASSEMBLY
Tip: Use sewing pins to position all the pieces before
sewing them in place!
• Slightly open the beak and pin it between the eyes,
over rounds 14-17. Sew all around the last round
using the dark blue yarn tail or a piece of sewing
thread in a matching color.
• Pin the wings to the body, they should sit just
below the crab stitch border of the head. The short
straight side is placed along the neck and the
Button the saw-whet owl 71

Joining starts here


10 11 12 13 14 1

9 2

8 7 6 5 4 3

1st SIDE MIDDLE 2nd SIDE


TOE TOE TOE

Legend: single crochet


23 24 25

15 16 19 20 23 24
17 18 21 22
4 25

26

Joining starts here


2
9 8 5 4 1
26 27 28 29
11 10 7 6 3 2

FIRST SECOND THIRD


FEATHER FEATHER FEATHER

Legend: single crochet

30 31 32 33
Rnd 10
Rnd 9

Legend: single crochet single crochet increase

34 35 36
Argo the peacock unfurls his magnificent
feathers like a dazzling fan. Each rainbow-
colored eyespot winks in the sunlight, catching
the attention of any nearby peahen. Did you
know that a peacock's tail can grow up to six
feet long? But beneath the enchanting display,
Argo has a chill personality, a love for poetry
and a taste for mangos. Argo the peacock is
a vocal feathery friend who likes to squawk,
hoot and sometimes even scream, waking up
the whole backyard.

Argo the peacock

Amigurumi gallery: Scan or visit


[Link]/4909
to share pictures and find inspiration.
Argo the peacock 73

peacock’s back.
Rnd 32: ch 10 (picture 1), start in second ch from the
MATERIALS hook, sc in next 9 ch, continue along Rnd 31 (picture 2),
Light worsted weight yarn (Ricorumi) in sc in all 42 st, continue on the other side of the ch (picture
l teal (Teal 040 – 3 balls) 3), sc in next 9 st [60] (picture 4)
l light gray (Reed 075) Mark the last stitch with a stitch marker, this is the new
l white (Cream 002 – leftover) beginning of the round.
l green (Pistachio 047 – 2 balls) Rnd 33: 3 sc in next st, sc in next 58 st, 3 sc in next st [64]
l turquoise (Turquoise 039) Rnd 34: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 60 st, inc in
l pink (Papaya 068 – leftover) next st, sc in next st [66]
l dark yellow (Mustard 064) Rnd 35 – 49: sc in all 66 st [66]
B-1 / 2.5 mm crochet hook Insert the safety eyes between rounds 14 and 15, with an
a pair of safety eyes (12 mm) interspace of approx. 12 stitches at the front (picture 5).
tapestry needle Rnd 50: (sc in next 9 st, dec) repeat 6 times [60]
pins Rnd 51: (sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 4 st) repeat 6
several stitch markers times [54]
fiberfill Rnd 52: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48]
Rnd 53: (sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat 6
SKILL LEVEL
***
SIZE 9" / 23 cm tall when made with
times [42]
Rnd 54: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
the indicated yarn.
Stuff the head and body firmly with fiberfill and continue
stuffing as you go.
Rnd 55: (sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat 6
times [30]
HEAD AND BODY (in teal yarn) Rnd 56: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 57: (sc in next st, dec, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 58: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 59: dec 6 times [6]
Rnd 4: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 6 times [24] Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using your yarn needle,
Rnd 5: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 6 times [30] weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remain-
Rnd 6: (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st) repeat 6 times [36] ing stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn ends
Rnd 7 – 24: sc in all 36 st [36] (picture 6).
Rnd 25: (sc in next 11 st, inc in next st) repeat
3 times [39] BEAK (in light gray yarn)
Rnd 26 – 28: sc in all 39 st [39] Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 29: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st, sc in next 6 st) Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6]
repeat 3 times [42] Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times [8]
Rnd 30 – 31: sc in all 42 st [42] Rnd 4: sc in all 8 st [8]
In the next round, we’ll make the ‘spine’ of the Rnd 5: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 2 times [10]
74 Argo the peacock

Rnd 6: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the beak Rnd 4 – 6: sc in all 18 st [18]
lightly with fiberfill. Fold the wing in half with the last stitch on the side. Work
the next row through both layers to close the [Link]
CHEEK (make 2, in white yarn) wing doesn’t need to be stuffed.
Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Closing row: sc in all 9 st [9]
Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
EYESPOT (make 10, start in teal yarn)
HEAD FEATHERS (in teal yarn) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
Crochet in rows. Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10]
Row 1: (ch 11 (picture 7), start in third ch from the Change to turquoise yarn.
hook, 3 dc-bobble in this ch (pictures 8-9), slst in next Tip: When fastening off the teal yarn, you can tie the
8 ch (picture 10)) repeat 5 times [5 feathers attached beginning and ending yarn tails together instead of
at the base] weaving them in, the wrong side of the feathers will be
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing (picture 11). hidden at the end.
Tip: For a smoother color change, you can choose to
WING (make 2, in teal yarn) fasten off the previous color before pulling up a loop of
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] yarn in the new color and joining it with a standing sc stitch
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] (tutorial on page 15).
Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 5 times [15]
Change to pink yarn.
Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat
5 times [20]
Change to dark yellow yarn.
Rnd 5: sc in next st, (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st)
repeat 2 times, 2 hdc in next st, 3 dc in next st,
2 hdc in next st, (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat
2 times [28] (picture 12)
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends or tie the ends
together on the wrong side of the work (pictures 13-15).
Mark the 7th and the 23rd stitch using stitch markers
(picture 16).

TAIL (in green yarn)


Rnd 1: start 7 sc in a magic ring [7]
Rnd 2: inc in all 7 st [14]
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [21]
Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat
7 times [28]
Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [35]
Argo the peacock 75

1 2 3 4

5 6 7 8

9 10 11 12

13 14 15 16
76 Argo the peacock

Rnd 6: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) Rnd 17: (sc in next 15 st, inc in next st) repeat
repeat 7 times [42] 7 times [119]
Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [49] Rnd 18: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st, sc in next 8 st)
Rnd 8: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 7 times [126]
repeat 7 times [56] Rnd 19: sc in next 5 st, (sc in next 14 st, inc in next st, sc in
Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [63] next 14 st) repeat 4 times, sc in next 5 st [130] (picture 17)
Rnd 10: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st, sc in next 4 st) In the next round, we’ll join the eyespots to the tail.
repeat 7 times [70] Rnd 20: (put an eyespot on top of the tail, starting in the
Rnd 11: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [77] marked 7th st of the eyespot (picture 18), sc in next 8 st
Rnd 12: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, sc in next 5 st) on the eyespot (picture 19), inc in next st on the eyespot,
repeat 7 times [84] sc in next 8 st on the eyespot (picture 20), skip 10 st from
Rnd 13: (sc in next 11 st, inc in next st) repeat Rnd 19 of the tail – the skipped stitches are behind the
7 times [91] eyespot (picture 21), sc in next 3 st of round 19 of the tail
Rnd 14: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st, sc in next 6 st) (picture 22)) repeat 9 times. Put the last eyespot on top of
repeat 7 times [98] the tail, starting in the marked 7th st of the eyespot, sc in
Rnd 15: (sc in next 13 st, inc in next st) repeat next 8 st on the eyespot, inc in next st on the eyespot, sc
7 times [105] in next 8 st on the eyespot, skip 10 st from Rnd 19 of the
Rnd 16: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st, sc in next 7 st) tail, sc in next st of Rnd 19, slst in next st of Rnd 19, skip
repeat 7 times [112] the last st of Rnd 19 [209] (picture 23)
Argo the peacock 77

17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24

25 26 27 28

Pause the work, but do not fasten off the green yarn. skip next st, sc in next st, skip next st) repeat 4 times,
Use a long tail of teal yarn to embroider the stem of the sc in next 9 st up the feather, ch-3-picot in next st,
feathers with straight stitches (picture 24). sc in next 9 st down the feather, slst in next st [95 +
Fold the tail in half with the last stitch on the side 5 picots]
(picture 25). The tail doesn’t need to be stuffed. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends (picture 28).
Work the next row through both layers to close the
opening (picture 26). FOOT (make 2)
Closing row: (sc in next 9 st up the feather, ch-3-picot Start by making 3 toes for each foot, we’ll later join
in next st, sc in next 9 st down the feather (picture 27), them together to make the foot.
78 Argo the peacock

Middle toe (make 1 for each foot, 2 in total,


Joining starts here
in light gray yarn) 10 11 12 13 14 1
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2 – 5: sc in all 6 st [6] 9 2

Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. The toes don’t
need to be stuffed. 8 7 6 5 4 3

1st SIDE MIDDLE 2nd SIDE


Side toe (make 2 for each foot, 4 in total, in light TOE TOE TOE

gray yarn) Legend: single crochet


29
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2 – 4: sc in all 6 st [6]
Fasten off on the first side toe and weave in the yarn LEG (in light gray yarn)
end. Don’t fasten off on the second side toe. The toes Pull up a loop of light gray yarn in the corner stitch from
don’t need to be stuffed. In the next round, we’ll join the gap in round 3 of the foot (picture 34).
the toes together (picture 30). 15 16 Rnd 1:19sc in20the corner
23 st, 24
sc in next 3 st, sc in the
17 18 21 22
14 corner st, sc in next 3 st [8] (picture
25 35)
Joining the toes (in light gray yarn) (picture 29) Rnd 2 – 7: sc in all 8 st [8]
26
Rnd 1: sc in next 4 st of the second side toe,13sc in Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 36).
next 2 st of the middle toe, sc in next 5 st of the Joining starts here
12
9 8 5 4 1
first side toe, skip last st of this toe, skip next st of11 7 6 3 2
10
the middle toe, sc in next 2 st of the middle toe, FIRST SECOND THIRD
skip last st of this toe, skip next st of the second FEATHER FEATHER FEATHER

side toe, sc in next st of the second side toe [14] Legend: single crochet
(picture 31)
Note: There are little gaps between the toes,
but since the toes remain unstuffed and flat, they are
invisible.
Rnd 2: (dec, sc in next 5 st) repeat 2 times [12]
In the next round, we’ll make a gap to start making
the leg later.
Rnd 10
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 st, ch 3, skip 3 st (picture 32), Rnd 9
sc in next 7 st [9 + 3 ch]
Legend: single crochet single crochet increase
Rnd 4: dec, sc in next 3 ch, sc in next st, dec, sc in
next 4 st [10]
Rnd 5: dec 5 times [5]
Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. The foot doesn’t need
to be stuffed. Using your yarn needle, weave the yarn
tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch
and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn ends
(picture 33).
Argo the peacock 79

30 31 32 33

34 35 36 37

38 39 40 41

The leg can be lightly stuffed with fiberfill, but stuff- • Sew round 6 of the tail to rounds 35-45 of the back of
ing is optional. the body (picture 38-39).
• Pin the wings between rounds 38 and 39 of the body
ASSEMBLY (picture 40). Sew only the last row to the body.
• Sew the beak to the head, between rounds 13 and • Sew the top of the legs to the bottom of the body,
16, centered between the eyes. between rounds 52 and 53, approx. 8 stitches apart at
• Pin the head feathers to the top of the head, then sew the front (picture 41). Make sure that the position of
them on by making a tiny stitch between each feather. the feet allows the peacock to sit and that the toes are
• Sew the cheeks below the eyes (picture 37). pointing up.
Scoop the pelican loves chilling on the
sand and soaking up the sun with his
crew, but he adores the water even
more! He enjoys diving deep down into
the water, paddling his webbed feet,
effortlessly spotting fish from a mile
away. His massive beak is like a built-
in fishing net, scooping up tasty treats
with ease. On the contrary, walking on
land isn’t exactly his forte. But hey, you
can't be good at everything, right?

Scoop
the pelican

Amigurumi gallery: Scan or visit


[Link]/4910
to share pictures and find inspiration.
Scoop the pelican 81

Rnd 33: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 61 st,


inc in next st [66]
Insert the safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14, with
MATERIALS
an interspace of approx. 12 stitches at the front (picture
Light worsted weight yarn (Ricorumi) in
5). Stuff the head and neck firmly with fiberfill and
l white (Cream 002 – 3 balls) continue stuffing as you go.
l yellow (Saffron 063 – 2 balls) Rnd 34 – 50: sc in all 66 st [66]
l brown (Chocolate 057)
Rnd 51: (sc in next 9 st, dec) repeat 6 times [60]
l dark yellow (Mustard 064)
Rnd 52: (sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 4 st) repeat
B-1 / 2.5 mm crochet hook
6 times [54]
a pair of safety eyes (12 mm)
Rnd 53: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48]
tapestry needle
Rnd 54: (sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat
pins
6 times [42]
stitch markers
Rnd 55: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
fiberfill
Rnd 56: (sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat
SKILL LEVEL
***
SIZE 8" / 20 cm tall when made with
6 times [30]
Rnd 57: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
the indicated yarn. Rnd 58: (sc in next st, dec, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
Rnd 59: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
Rnd 60: dec 6 times [6]
Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using your yarn needle,
weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each
HEAD AND BODY (in white yarn) remaining stitch and pull it tight to close (picture 6).
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Weave in the yarn ends.
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] BEAK (in yellow yarn)
Rnd 4: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 6 times [24] The beak is made up of two parts: the upper beak and the
Rnd 5: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 6 times [30] lower beak. The upper beak is formed with an outer piece
Rnd 6: (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st) repeat 6 times [36] and an inner piece, joined together at the end.
Rnd 7 – 30: sc in all 36 st [36]
In the next round, we’ll make the ‘spine’ of the peli- Upper beak - inner piece (in yellow yarn)
can’s back. Ch 13. Stitches are worked around both sides of the
Rnd 31: ch 13 (picture 1), start in second ch from the foundation chain.
hook, sc in next 12 ch, continue along Rnd 30 (picture Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in next 11 ch,
2), sc in all 36 st, continue on the other side of the ch 5 sc in last ch. Continue on the other side of the foun­
(picture 3), sc in next 12 st [60] (picture 4) dation chain, sc in next 11 st [27] (picture 7)
Mark the last stitch with a stitch marker, this is the Rnd 2: (3 sc in next st, sc in next 12 st) repeat 2 times,
new beginning of the round. 3 sc in next st [33]
Rnd 32: 3 sc in next st, sc in next 58 st, 3 sc in next st [64] Rnd 3: sc in next st, (3 sc in next st, sc in next 14 st)
82 Scoop the pelican

repeat 2 times, 3 sc in next st, sc in next st [39] Don’t fasten off on the outer piece. In the next round, we’ll
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 st, (3 sc in next st, sc in next 16 st) join the outer and inner pieces together.
repeat 2 times, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st [45]
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends (picture 8). Joining the beak PIECES (in yellow yarn)
Rnd 1: slst in next 3 st of the outer piece, skip 3 st of the
Upper beak - outer piece (in yellow yarn) outer piece (picture 10), slst in next st of the outer piece
Ch 13. Stitches are worked around both sides of the (picture 11). Put the inner piece underneath the outer piece,
foundation chain. with the wrong sides facing each other. Use a stitch marker
Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in next to match the middle stitch at the tip of the inner and outer
11 ch, 5 sc in last ch. Continue on the other side of the pieces (picture 12). Work the next stitches through both
foundation chain, sc in next 11 st [27] layers to join the pieces together (picture 13), slst in next
Rnd 2: (3 sc in next st, sc in next 12 st) repeat 2 times, 38 st (remove the stitch marker while working, making sure
3 sc in next st [33] the pieces match correctly). Continue working on the outer
Rnd 3: sc in next st, (3 sc in next st, sc in next 14 st) piece only, skip 3 st of the outer piece, (picture 14) slst in
repeat 2 times, 3 sc in next st, sc in next st [39] next 3 st of the outer piece [44]
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 st, (3 sc in next st, sc in next 16 st) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 15).
repeat 2 times, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st [45]
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 st, (3 sc in next st, sc in next 18 st) Lower beak (in yellow yarn)
repeat 2 times, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st [51] Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
(picture 9) Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
Rnd 4: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 5: sc in next 11 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 11 st [26]
Rnd 6: sc in next 12 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 12 st [28]
Rnd 7: sc in next 13 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 13 st [30]
Rnd 8: sc in next 15 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 13 st [32]
Rnd 9: sc in next 16 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 14 st [34]
Rnd 10: sc in next 17 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 15 st [36]
Rnd 11: sc in next 19 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 15 st [38]
Rnd 12: sc in next 20 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 16 st [40]
Rnd 13: sc in next 21 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 17 st [42]
Rnd 14 – 27: sc in all 42 st [42]
Rnd 28: sc in next 8 st, slst in next 34 st [42]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 16).

HEAD FEATHERS (in white yarn)


Crochet in rows.
Row 1: (ch 8, start in third ch from the hook, dc in next
5 ch, dc + ch 3 + slst in next ch) repeat 3 times [3 feathers
attached at the base]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 17).
Scoop the pelican 83

1 2 3 4

5 6 7 8

9 10 11 12

13 14 15 16
84 Scoop the pelican

17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24

25 26 27 28

29 30 31 32
Scoop the pelican 85

WING (make 2, start in white yarn) slst in next st) repeat 3 times, ch 2 + dc in next st, dc in
Ch 10. Stitches are worked around both sides of the next st, dc + ch 2 + slst in next st [4 feathers]
foundation chain. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends (picture 26).
Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in next
8 ch, 5 sc in last ch. Continue on the other side of the TAIL (start in dark brown yarn)
foundation chain, sc in next 7 st, 4 sc in last st [24] Ch 7. Stitches are worked around both sides of the
Rnd 2: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next 3 st) repeat foundation chain.
2 times [30] Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in next 5 ch,
Rnd 3: sc in next 9 st, (sc in next st, inc in next st) 3 sc in last ch. Continue on the other side of the foun­
repeat 3 times, sc in next 9 st, (sc in next st, inc in next dation chain, sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in last st [14]
st) repeat 3 times [36] Rnd 2: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [16]
Rnd 4: sc in next 9 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 16 st [16]
repeat 3 times, sc in next 9 st, (inc in next st, sc in next Rnd 5: (dec, sc in next 6 st) repeat 2 times [14]
2 st) repeat 3 times [42] Rnd 6: sc in all 14 st [14]
Rnd 5: sc in next 9 st, (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) Change to white yarn.
repeat 3 times, sc in next 9 st, (sc in next 3 st, inc in Rnd 7: sc in all 14 st [14]
next st) repeat 3 times [48] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The tail doesn’t
Rnd 6: sc in next 9 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st) need to be stuffed.
repeat 3 times, sc in next 9 st, (inc in next st, sc in next
4 st) repeat 3 times [54]
Rnd 7: sc in next 9 st, (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st)
repeat 3 times, sc in next 9 st, (sc in next 5 st, inc in
next st) repeat 3 times [60]
Sc in next 6 st to reach the center of the side (picture
18). The wing doesn’t need to be stuffed. Fold the wing
in half with the last stitch on the side (picture 19).
Work the next row through both layers to close the
opening (picture 20).
Closing row: sc in all 30 st [30] (picture 21)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
The feathers row is worked differently for the left and
right wing.
Right wing feathers: pull up a loop of dark brown
yarn in the first st of the closing row, (ch 2 (picture 22)
+ dc in next st, dc in next st, dc + ch 2 + slst in next st,
slst in next st (picture 23)) repeat 3 times, ch 2 + dc
in next st, dc in next st, dc + ch 2 + slst in next st [4
feathers] (picture 24)
Left wing feathers: pull up a loop of dark brown yarn
in the 19th st of the closing row, (ch 2 (picture 25) +
dc in next st, dc in next st, dc + ch 2 + slst in next st,
86 Scoop the pelican

FOOT (make 2, in dark yellow yarn) through both layers to close the opening.
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Closing row: sc in all 9 st, turn [9]
Rnd 2: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 3 times [9] Toes: ch 2, dc in first st, slst in next 2 st, slst + ch 2 + dc in
In the next round, we’ll make a gap to start making next st, skip 1 st, slst in next 2 st, slst + ch 2 + dc in next st,
the leg later. slst in next st [3 toes]
Rnd 3: sc in next 3 st, ch 3, skip 3 st, sc in next 3 st Fasten off and weave in the yarn end.
[6 + 3 ch]
Rnd 4: inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, inc in next ch, LEG (in dark yellow yarn)
sc in next 2 ch, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st [12] Pull up a loop of dark yellow yarn in the corner stitch from
Rnd 5: sc in all 12 st [12] the gap in round 3 of the foot.
Rnd 6: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat Rnd 1: sc in the corner st, sc in next 3 st, sc in the corner
3 times [15] st, sc in next 3 st [8]
Rnd 7: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 2 – 7: sc in all 8 st [8]
Rnd 8: (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st) repeat Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 27).
3 times [18] The leg can be lightly stuffed with fiberfill, but stuffing is
Rnd 9: sc in all 18 st [18] optional.
The foot doesn’t need to be stuffed. Flatten the foot
with the last stitch on the side. Work the next row ASSEMBLY
Tip: Use sewing pins to position all the pieces before
sewing them in place!
• Pin and sew the straight side with the pinched corners of
the upper beak to the head, between rounds 11 and 13,
centered between the eyes (picture 28). Sew along the
outer layer only.
• Pin the lower beak below the upper beak, with the last
8 sc stitches matching the upper beak (picture 29). Sew
along those stitches, then sew a few stitches at the
bottom of the beak to the neck, just to keep it in place.
• Pin the head feathers to the top of the head, arranging
them one on top of the other (picture 30). Sew them to the
head with a few tiny stitches on both sides.
• Pin the wings between rounds 35 and 36 of the body (pic-
ture 31). Sew only the straight side to the body, with the
feathers pointing towards the back of the body.
• Sew the tail to rounds 14-15 of the back of the body.
• Sew the top of the legs to the bottom of the body, between
rounds 55 and 56, approx. 6 stitches apart at the front
(picture 32). Make sure that the position of the feet allows
the pelican to sit and that the toes are pointing up.
Scoop the pelican 87
Toco the toucan didn’t like his long,
clumsy beak. Sure, it’s like a built-in
fruit grabber, reaching all the juicy berries
hidden in the branches. But let's be real,
it isn't exactly ideal for playing hide-and-
seek or relaxing in peace. Chilling out
on a branch? Not without knocking over
his friends. But lately, something has
changed. Maybe that beak isn't the most
practical, but it sure makes him stand out
in the crowd, and that’s something Toco
can be proud of.

Toco
THE toucan

Amigurumi gallery: Scan or visit


[Link]/4911
to share pictures and find inspiration.
Toco the toucan 89

next 3 st) repeat 3 times [60]


Rnd 6: sc in next 15 st, (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st)
repeat 3 times, sc in next 15 st, (sc in next 4 st, inc in
MATERIALS next st) repeat 3 times [66]
Light worsted weight yarn (Ricorumi) in Rnd 7: sc in all 66 st [66]
l black (Black 060 – 3 balls) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Insert the
l white (Cream 002) safety eyes between rounds 3 and 4 (picture 1). Don’t
l red (Fox 025) close the washers yet.
l pink (Papaya 068 – leftover)
l yellow (Saffron 063) HEAD AND BODY (in black yarn)
l light blue (Turquoise 039) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
B-1 / 2.5 mm crochet hook
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
a pair of safety eyes (15 mm)
Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
tapestry needle
Rnd 4: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 6 times [24]
pins
Rnd 5: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 6 times [30]
stitch markers
Rnd 6: (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st) repeat 6 times [36]
fiberfill
Rnd 7: (inc in next st, sc in next 5 st) repeat 6 times [42]
SKILL LEVEL
*
SIZE 5.5" / 14 cm tall and 8" / 20 cm long
Rnd 8: (inc in next st, sc in next 6 st) repeat 6 times [48]
Rnd 9 – 14: sc in all 48 st [48]
when made with the indicated yarn.

FACE PATCH (in white yarn)


Ch 16. Stitches are worked around both sides of the
foundation chain.
Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in next
14 ch, 5 sc in last ch. Continue on the other side of the
foundation chain, sc in next 13 st, 4 sc in last st [36]
Rnd 2: (sc in next 15 st, inc in next 3 st) repeat
2 times [42]
Rnd 3: sc in next 15 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st)
repeat 3 times, sc in next 15 st, (inc in next st, sc in
next st) repeat 3 times [48]
Rnd 4: sc in next 15 st, (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st)
repeat 3 times, sc in next 15 st, (sc in next 2 st, inc in
next st) repeat 3 times [54]
Rnd 5: sc in next 15 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st)
repeat 3 times, sc in next 15 st, (inc in next st, sc in
90 Toco the toucan

In the next round, we’ll make the ‘spine’ of the toucan’s BEAK (start in red yarn)
back. Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 15: ch 10 (picture 2), start in second ch from the Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
hook, sc in next 9 ch (picture 3), continue along Rnd 14, Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
sc in all 48 st, continue on the other side of the ch Rnd 4: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 6 times [24]
(picture 4), sc in next 9 st [66](picture 5) Rnd 5: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 6 times [30]
Mark the last stitch with a stitch marker, this is the Rnd 6: (dec, sc in next st) repeat 3 times, (inc in next st,
new beginning of the round. sc in next 6 st) repeat 3 times [30]
Rnd 16: 3 sc in next st, sc in next 64 st, 3 sc in Rnd 7: dec 3 times, (inc in next st, sc in next 7 st) repeat
next st [70] 3 times [30]
Rnd 17: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 66 st, Rnd 8 – 9: sc in all 30 st [30]
inc in next st, sc in next st [72] Change to pink yarn.
Rnd 18 – 32: sc in all 72 st [72] Rnd 10 – 13: sc in all 30 st [30]
Fold the face patch in half to find the middle line (pic- Change to yellow yarn.
ture 6). Place it between rounds 11 and 26 of the head. Rnd 14 – 21: sc in all 30 st [30]
Insert the safety eyes through the head and close the Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 8).
washers (picture 7). Use the white yarn tail to sew the Stuff the beak firmly with fiberfill.
face patch to the head.
Rnd 33: (sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in next 5 st) repeat CHEEK (make 2, in light blue yarn)
6 times [66] Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 34: (sc in next 9 st, dec) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
Rnd 35: (sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 4 st) repeat Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
6 times [54] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Rnd 36: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48]
Rnd 37: (sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat
6 times [42]
Rnd 38: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
Stuff the head and body firmly with fiberfill and
continue stuffing as you go.
Rnd 39: (sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 2 st)
repeat 6 times [30]
Rnd 40: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat
6 times [24]
Rnd 41: (sc in next st, dec, sc in next st)
repeat 6 times [18]
Rnd 42: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
Rnd 43: dec 6 times [6]
Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using your yarn
needle, weave the yarn tail through the front
loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight
to close. Weave in the yarn ends.
Toco the toucan 91

1 2 3 4

5 6 7 8

WING (make 2, in black yarn) SHORT TAIL FEATHER (make 2, in black yarn)
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10]
Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 10 st [10]
Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 5: (dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat 2 times [8]
Rnd 6: (dec, sc in next 7 st) repeat 2 times [16] Rnd 6: (dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times [6]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The wing Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The short
doesn’t need to be stuffed. Flatten the wing. tail feather doesn’t need to be stuffed. Flatten the
feather.
LONG TAIL FEATHER (in black yarn)
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] LEG (make 2, in light blue yarn)
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Leave a long starting yarn tail.
Rnd 3 – 5: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8]
Rnd 6: (dec, sc in next 4 st) repeat 2 times [10] Move the starting yarn tail to the outside of the work,
Rnd 7: (dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat 2 times [8] it will be used to sew the leg to the body later.
Rnd 8: (dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times [6] Rnd 2 – 8: sc in all 8 st [8]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The long tail Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the leg
feather doesn’t need to be stuffed. Flatten the feather. lightly with fiberfill.
92 Toco the toucan

Joining starts here


10 11 12 13 14 1

9 2

8 7 6 5 4 3

1st SIDE MIDDLE 2nd SIDE


TOE TOE TOE

Legend: single crochet

9 10 11

15 16 19 20 23 24
17 18 21 22
14 25

26
13

Joining starts here


12
9 8 5 4 1
11 10 7 6 3 2
12 13 14 15
FIRST SECOND THIRD
FEATHER FEATHER FEATHER

Legend: single crochet

Rnd 10
Rnd 9
16 17 18
Legend: single crochet single crochet increase

19 20 21
Toco the toucan 93

FOOT (make 2) ASSEMBLY


Start by making 3 toes for each foot, we’ll later join • Sew the beak to the head, centered between the eyes,
them together to make the foot. starting from the center top of the face patch (picture
18).
Middle toe (make 1 for each foot, 2 in total, in • Sew the cheeks to the head, they are positioned over
light blue yarn) the face patch.
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] • Sew the wings to the sides of the body, between
Rnd 2 – 5: sc in all 6 st [6] rounds 22 and 28, positioned at a slight angle.
Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. The toes don’t • Sew the 3 tail feathers to rounds 16-17 of the back
need to be stuffed. of the body, with the long tail feather in the center
(picture 19).
Side toe (make 2 for each foot, 4 in total, in light • Sew the leg to the foot (picture 20). Pin and sew the
blue yarn) top of the legs to the bottom of the body, over rounds
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] 37 and 38, approx. 5 stitches apart at the front (picture
Rnd 2 – 4: sc in all 6 st [6] 21). Make sure that the position of the feet allows the
Fasten off on the first side toe and weave in the yarn toucan to sit and that the toes are pointing up.
end. Don’t fasten off on the second side toe. The toes
don’t need to be stuffed. In the next round, we’ll join
the toes together (picture 9).

Joining the toes (in light blue yarn) (picture 10)


Rnd 1: sc in next 4 st of the second side toe,
sc in next 2 st of the middle toe (picture 11),
sc in next 5 st of the first side toe (picture 12-13),
skip last st of this toe, skip next st of the middle
toe, sc in next 2 st of the middle toe (picture 14),
skip last st of this toe, skip next st of the second
side toe, sc in next st of the second side toe (picture
15) [14] (picture 16)
Note: There are little gaps between the toes,
but since the toes remain unstuffed and flat,
they are invisible.
Rnd 2: (dec, sc in next 5 st) repeat 2 times [12]
Rnd 3: dec 6 times [6]
Rnd 4: sc in all 6 st [6] (picture 17)
Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. The foot doesn’t
need to be stuffed. Using your yarn needle, weave
the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining
stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn
ends.
Floriana
the Hen (and the
Little Chick)
Floriana shows her little chick the wonders of their world.
They may look like feathered fluffballs, but they’re also
intelligent, capable of learning names and even remembering
human faces! Their eyesight is sharp, being able to spot
tasty bugs from a mile away, and their sense of smell
is top-notch, perfect for sniffing out the juiciest worms.
Sure, Floriana and her chick have their quirks – like that weird
dust-bathing thing – but being a chicken is pretty darn cool.

Amigurumi gallery: Scan or visit


[Link]/4912
to share pictures and find inspiration.
Floriana the hen (and the little chick) 95

Rnd 11: sc in all 45 st [45]


Rnd 12: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st, sc in next 7 st)
repeat 3 times [48]
MATERIALS
Rnd 13 – 15: sc in all 48 st [48]
Light worsted weight yarn (Ricorumi) in
Change to light brown yarn. Leave the beige yarn at the
l beige (Ecru 054)
outside of the work, it will be used to make the hackles
l light brown (Caramel 053 – 2 balls)
around the neck later.
l dark brown (Chocolate 063)
In the next round, we’ll make the ‘spine’ of the hen’s back.
l yellow (Saffron 063)
Rnd 16: ch 10 (picture 1), start in second ch from the
l red (Fox 025)
hook, sc in next 9 ch, continue along Rnd 15 (picture 2),
B-1 / 2.5 mm crochet hook
BLO sc in all 48 st, continue on the other side of the ch
two pairs of safety eyes (12 mm for the Hen
(picture 3), sc in next 9 st [66] (picture 4)
and 6 mm for the Chick)
tapestry needle Mark the last stitch with a stitch marker, this is the new
pins beginning of the round.
stitch markers Rnd 17: 3 sc in next st, sc in next 64 st, 3 sc in next st [70]
fiberfill Rnd 18: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 66 st, inc in
next st, sc in next st [72] (picture 5)
SKILL LEVEL
**
SIZE 6.25" / 16 cm (Hen) and 2.5" /
Rnd 19 – 31: sc in all 72 st [72]
Insert the safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14, with an
6.5 cm (Chick) tall when made with interspace of approx. 14 stitches at the front (picture 6).
the indicated yarn. Rnd 32: sc in next 18 st, (dec, sc in next 5 st) repeat 6
times, sc in next 12 st [66]
Rnd 33: sc in next 18 st, (sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next
2 st) repeat 6 times, sc in next 12 st [60]
HEN Rnd 34: (sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 4 st) repeat 6
times [54]
HEAD AND BODY (start in beige yarn) Rnd 35: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48]
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 36: (sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat 6
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] times [42]
Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 37: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
Rnd 4: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 6 times [24] Stuff the head and body firmly with fiberfill and continue
Rnd 5: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 6 times [30] stuffing as you go.
Rnd 6: (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 38: (sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat 6
Rnd 7: (inc in next st, sc in next 11 st) repeat 3 times [39] times [30]
Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st, sc in next 6 st) Rnd 39: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
repeat 3 times [42] Rnd 40: (sc in next st, dec, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
Rnd 9: sc in all 42 st [42] Rnd 41: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
Rnd 10: (inc in next st, sc in next 13 st) repeat Rnd 42: dec 6 times [6]
3 times [45] Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using your yarn needle,
96 Floriana the hen (and the little chick)

weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each BEAK (in yellow yarn)
remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
yarn ends. Rnd 2: inc in next st, sc in next 5 st [7]
Rnd 3: sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 3 st [8]
HACKLES (in beige yarn) Rnd 4: sc in all 8 st [8]
Pull up a loop of beige yarn in the first remaining front Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Lightly stuff the
loop of round 16 (picture 7). Work with the head point- beak with fiberfill.
ing towards you.
Rnd 1: FLO (inc in next st, sc in next 7 st) repeat 6 WATTLE (make 2, in red yarn)
times [54] Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8]
Rnd 2: sc in all 54 st [54] (picture 8) Rnd 2: sc in all 8 st [8]
Rnd 3: slst in next 4 st, (slst + ch 2 (picture 9) + 3 dc Rnd 3: dec, sc in next 6 [7]
in next st (picture 10), skip 2 st (picture 11)) repeat Rnd 4: dec, sc in next 5 [6]
2 times, (slst + ch 3 + 3 tr in next st, skip 3 st) repeat Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Lightly stuff the
8 times, (slst + ch 2 + 3 dc in next st, skip 2 st) repeat wattle with fiberfill.
2 times, slst in next 6 st [12 scallops] (picture 12)
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. COMB
Start by making 3 peaks, we’ll later join them together to
make the comb.

Peak (make 3, in red yarn)


Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
Rnd 3: sc in all 12 st [12]
The peak doesn’t need to be stuffed. Fasten off and weave
in the yarn ends on the first and second peak. Don’t fasten
off on the third peak (picture 13).

Completing the comb


Rnd 4: sc in next 6 st of the third peak, sc in next 6 st of
the second peak (pictures 14-15), sc in all 12 st of the first
peak (picture 16), sc in next 6 st of the second peak (pic-
ture 17), sc in next 6 st of the third peak (picture 18) [36]
Rnd 5: (sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in next 5 st) repeat
3 times [33]
Rnd 6: (dec, sc in next 9 st) repeat 3 times [30]
The comb doesn’t need to be stuffed. Flatten the comb
with the last stitch on the side. Work the next row through
both layers to close the opening (picture 19).
Closing row: sc in all 15 st [15]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 20).
Floriana the hen (and the little chick) 97

1 2 3 4

5 6 7 8

9 10 11 12

13 14 15 16
98 Floriana the hen (and the little chick)

WING (make 2, start in light brown yarn) Flatten the tail with the last stitch on the side. Work
Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] the next row through both layers to close the opening
Rnd 2: sc in next 3 st, 3 sc in next 2 st, sc in next 3 st [12] (picture 25).
Rnd 3: sc in next 5 st, 3 sc in next 2 st, sc in next 5 st [16] Closing row: sc in next 9 st (picture 26), turn [9]
Rnd 4: sc in next 7 st, 3 sc in next 2 st, sc in next 7 st [20] Feathers: ch 2 + 2 dc in first st, skip next st, (slst +
Rnd 5: sc in next 9 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 9 st [22] ch 2 + 2 dc in next st, skip next 2 st) repeat 2 times, slst in
Rnd 6: sc in all 22 st [22] next st [3 scallops] (picture 27)
Sc in next st to reach the side (picture 21). The wing Fasten off and weave in the ending yarn tail. Stuff the tail
doesn’t need to be stuffed. Fold the wing in half with lightly with fiberfill.
the last stitch on the side. The next rows are worked
differently for the left and right wing. FOOT (make 2)
Start by making 3 toes for each foot, we’ll later join them
Left wing together to make the foot.
Change to beige yarn (picture 22). Work the next row
through both layers to close the opening. Middle toe (make 1 for each foot, 2 in total, in dark
Row 1: sc in next 11 st, turn [11] brown yarn)
Row 2: ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next 10 st, turn [12] Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Row 3: ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, skip next st, (slst + ch 3 + Rnd 2 – 5: sc in all 6 st [6]
2 dc in next st, skip next 2 st) repeat 3 times, slst in next Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. The toes don’t need
st [4 feathers] to be stuffed.
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends (picture 23).
Side toe (make 2 for each foot, 4 in total, in dark
Right wing brown yarn)
Fasten off the light brown yarn and pull up a loop of Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
beige yarn in the tip of the curved side. Work the next Rnd 2 – 4: sc in all 6 st [6]
row through both layers to close the opening. Fasten off on the first side toe and weave in the yarn end.
Row 1: sc in next 11 st, turn [11] Don’t fasten off on the second side toe. The toes don’t
Row 2: ch 1, sc in next 10 st, inc in next st, turn [12] need to be stuffed. In the next round we’ll join the toes
Row 3: ch 3, 2 dc in first st, skip next 2 st, (slst + together.
ch 3 + 2 dc in next st, skip next 2 st) repeat 2 times,
slst + ch 2 + 2 hdc in next st, skip next st, slst in Joining the toes (in dark brown yarn) (picture 29)
next st [4 feathers] Rnd 1: sc in next 4 st of the second side toe, sc in next 2 st
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. of the middle toe, sc in next 5 st of the first side toe, skip
last st of this toe, skip 1 st of the middle toe, sc in next 2 st
TAIL (start in light brown yarn) of the middle toe, skip last st of this toe, skip next st of the
Leave a long starting yarn tail. Ch 15 and join with second side toe, sc in next st of the second side toe [14]
a slst in the first ch to make a circle (picture 24). Note: There are little gaps between the toes, but since
Rnd 1: sc in all 15 ch [15] the toes remain unstuffed and flat, they are invisible.
Rnd 2: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 2: (dec, sc in next 5 st) repeat 2 times [12]
Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st) repeat 3 times [18] In the next round, we’ll make a gap to start making the
Change to beige yarn. leg later.
Floriana the hen (and the little chick) 99

17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24

25 26 27 28

Joining starts here


10 11 12 13 14 1

9 2

8 7 6 5 4 3

1st SIDE MIDDLE 2nd SIDE


TOE TOE TOE

Legend: single crochet

29 30 31
100 Floriana the hen (and the little chick)

Rnd 3: sc in next 2 st, ch 3, skip 3 st, sc in next 7 st [9 ASSEMBLY


+ 3 ch] Tip: Use sewing pins to position all the pieces before
Rnd 4: dec, sc in next 3 ch, sc in next st, dec, sc in next sewing them in place! (picture 30)
4 st [10] • Sew the beak to the head, between rounds 12 and 13,
Rnd 5: dec 5 times [5] centered between the eyes.
Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. The foot doesn’t need to • Sew the comb to the top of the head, between round
be stuffed. Using your yarn needle, weave the yarn tail 4 (towards the front) and round 8 (towards the back),
through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull going over the magic ring.
it tight to close. Weave in the yarn ends. • Sew the wattle underneath the beak.
• Pin the wings to the body, starting from round 21 of
LEG (in dark brown yarn) the body. Sew only the straight top side to the body,
Pull up a loop of dark brown yarn in the corner stitch leaving the rest of the wing unsewn. The slightly
from the gap in round 3 of the foot. bigger feathers point towards the back of the body.
Rnd 1: sc in the corner st, sc in next 3 st, sc in the • Sew the tail to rounds 16-18 of the back of the body.
corner st, sc in next 3 st [8] • Sew the top of the legs to the bottom of the body, over
Rnd 2 – 7: sc in all 8 st [8] rounds 35 and 36, approx. 5 stitches apart at the front
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 28). (picture 31). Make sure that the position of the feet
The leg can be lightly stuffed with fiberfill, but stuffing allows the hen to sit and that the toes are pointing up.
is optional.
CHICK
HEAD AND BODY (in yellow yarn)
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
Rnd 4 – 6: sc in all 18 st [18]
In the next round, we’ll make the ‘spine’ of the chick’s
back.
Rnd 7: ch 6 (picture 32), start in second ch from the
hook, sc in next 5 ch, continue along Rnd 6, sc in all 18 st,
continue on the other side of the ch, sc in next 5 st [28]
(picture 33)
Floriana the hen (and the little chick) 101

32 33 34 35

36 37 38 39

40 41 42 43

Mark the last stitch with a stitch marker, this is the In the next round, we’ll shape the wings.
new beginning of the round. Rnd 11: sc in next 5 st, skip 2 st, 7 dc in FLO of next st
Rnd 8: inc in next st, sc in next 26 st, inc in next st [30] (pictures 35-36), skip 2 st (picture 37), sc in next 12 st,
Rnd 9 – 10: sc in all 30 st [30] skip 2 st, 7 dc in FLO of next st, skip 2 st, sc in next 3 st
Insert the safety eyes between rounds 6 and 7, [34 – wings included] (picture 38)
with an interspace of approx. 6 stitches at the front Rnd 12: sc in next 5 st (picture 39), sc in next 2 skipped
(picture 34), but don’t close the washers yet (secure st, sc in next leftover back loop, sc in next 2 skipped st
the eyes only after making the wings, to make sure (picture 40), sc in next 12 st, sc in next 2 skipped st, sc in
they sit in the right position). next leftover back loop, sc in next 2 skipped st, sc in next
102 Floriana the hen (and the little chick)

3 st [30] (pictures 41-42)


Rnd 13 – 15: sc in all 30 st [30]
Check the position of the safety eyes and close the
washers.
Rnd 16: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 17: (sc in next st, dec, sc in next st) repeat
6 times [18]
Stuff the head and body firmly with fiberfill and con­
tinue stuffing as you go.
44 45
Rnd 18: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
Rnd 19: dec 6 times [6]
Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using your yarn needle,
weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each
remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the
yarn ends (picture 43).

BEAK (in beige yarn)


Ch 3. Crochet in rows.
Row 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in next ch,
46 47
hdc in next ch [2]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

FOOT (make 2, in light brown yarn)


Ch 5. Stitches are worked around both sides of the
foundation chain.
Row 1: start in second ch from the hook, slst in
next ch (picture 44), (ch 2 (picture 45), start in
second ch from the hook, slst in next ch) repeat
2 times (picture 46), continue on the starting ch,
slst in next 3 ch [3 slst on the leg + 3 toes] 48 49

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (pic­ture 47).

ASSEMBLY
• Sew the beak to the head, between rounds 6-7,
centered between the eyes (picture 48).
• Sew the top of the feet to the bottom of the body
(picture 49). Make sure that the position of the feet
allows the chick to sit and that the toes are
pointing forwards.
Floriana the hen (and the little chick) 103
Emerald the quetzal
Emerald the resplendent quetzal
is his complete name, and for good
reason! His emerald feathers
shimmer like jewels, and his long,
flowing tail sways gracefully
behind him. Seeing him in the Cen-
tral American forests is a rare treat
and don't expect him to hang around
for selfies. Emerald’s a bit of a shy
soul, preferring the quiet solitude of
the trees. Luckily, his green plumage
camouflages him perfectly, allowing
him to disappear into the leafy world
whenever he wants some me-time.

Amigurumi gallery: Scan or visit


[Link]/4913
to share pictures and find inspiration.
Emerald the quetzal 105

Rnd 5: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 6 times [30]


Rnd 6: (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st) repeat 6 times [36]
Rnd 7: (inc in next st, sc in next 5 st) repeat 6 times [42]
MATERIALS Rnd 8: (inc in next st, sc in next 6 st) repeat 6 times [48]
Light worsted weight yarn (Ricorumi) in Rnd 9 – 16: sc in all 48 st [48]
l green (Grass Green 044 – 2 balls) In the next round, we’ll make the ‘spine’ of the quetzal’s
l dark green (Green 049) back.
l dark orange (Fox 025) Rnd 17: ch 10 (picture 1), start in second ch from the
l yellow (Saffron 063 – leftover) hook, sc in next 9 ch, continue along Rnd 16 (picture 2),
l light yellow (Vanilla 005) sc in all 48 st, continue on the other side of the ch (picture
l white (Cream 002) 3), sc in next 9 st [66] (picture 4)
Optional: Lace weight mohair yarn (Rico
Mark the last stitch with a stitch marker, this is the new
Essentials Super Kid Mohair Loves Silk) in
beginning of the round.
l green (Green 050) Rnd 18: 3 sc in next st, sc in next 64 st, 3 sc in next st [70]
B-1 / 2.5 mm crochet hook
Rnd 19: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 66 st, inc in
a pair of safety eyes (12 mm)
next st, sc in next st [72] (picture 5)
tapestry needle
Rnd 20 – 27: sc in all 72 st [72]
pins
Optional: Use a wire brush to gently brush the head for
stitch markers
a fluffier look (picture 6).
fiberfill
Tip: If you’re going to brush the body after inserting the
wire brush (optional)
safety eyes, cover them with a piece of washi tape so they
SKILL LEVEL
**
SIZE 6.25" / 16 cm tall when made with
don’t get scratched.
Insert the safety eyes between rounds 15 and 16, with an
the indicated yarn. interspace of approx. 14 stitches at the front (picture 7).
Change to dark orange yarn.
Rnd 28 – 35: sc in all 72 st [72]
Rnd 36: (sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in next 5 st) repeat
Note: To make the quetzal in the book, I’ve worked 6 times [66]
parts of the pattern while holding a Light worsted Rnd 37: (sc in next 9 st, dec) repeat 6 times [60]
weight cotton yarn and a Lace weight mohair yarn Rnd 38: (sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 4 st) repeat
together, for an extra fluffy look. If you prefer to make 6 times [54]
the pattern in Light worsted weight cotton yarn only, Rnd 39: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48]
you can simply ignore the mentions of mohair yarn. Rnd 40: (sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat
6 times [42]
HEAD AND BODY (start in green yarn + green mohair) Rnd 41: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Stuff the head and body firmly with fiberfill and
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] continue stuffing as you go.
Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 42: (sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat
Rnd 4: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 6 times [24] 6 times [30]
106 Emerald the quetzal

Rnd 43: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 5 times [15]
Rnd 44: (sc in next st, dec, sc in next st) repeat Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
6 times [18]
Rnd 45: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] WING (make 2, in green yarn)
Rnd 46: dec 6 times [6] Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using your yarn needle, Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat
the yarn ends. 6 times [24]
Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30]
HEAD FEATHERS (in green yarn + green mohair) Rnd 6: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st)
Tip: Work all sc stitches in the back bump of the repeat 6 times [36]
chain for a neater result! Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42]
Ch 5. Crochet in rows. Rnd 8: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 3 st)
Row 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in next repeat 6 times [48] (picture 13)
4 ch, (ch 6 (picture 8), start in second ch from the Fold the wing in half with the last stitch on the side
hook, sc in next 5 ch (picture 9-10)) repeat 3 times, (picture 14). Work the next row through both layers to
ch 5, start in second ch from the hook, sc in next 4 ch close the opening (picture 15). The wing doesn’t need to
[5 feathers attached at the base] be stuffed.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 11). Closing row: sc in all 24 st (picture 16), turn [24]
Use a wire brush to gently brush the head feathers for The feathers row is worked differently for the left and
a fluffier look (picture 12). right wing.

BEAK (in yellow yarn)


Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times [8]
Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 2 times [10]
Rnd 4: sc in all 10 st [10]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the
beak lightly with fiberfill.

CHEEK (make 2, in dark green yarn)


Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10]
Emerald the quetzal 107

1 2 3 4

5 6 7 8

9 10 11 12

13 14 15 16
108 Emerald the quetzal

Right wing feathers: ch 1, slst in next 8 st (picture dc in next 10 ch, 6 dc in last ch. Continue on the other
17), (slst + ch 2 + 3 dc in next st (picture 18), skip side of the foundation chain, dc in next 10 st, hdc in next
2 st) repeat 5 times, slst in next st [5 feathers] 13 st, sc in next 16 st, turn [84]
(picture 19) Row 2: slst in all 84 st [84]
Left wing feathers: ch 2 + 3 dc in first st, skip next Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 29).
2 st, (slst + ch 2 + 3 dc in next st, skip 2 st) repeat
4 times, slst in next 9 st [5 feathers] MEDIUM TAIL FEATHER (make 2, in dark green yarn)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 20). Ch 27. Stitches are worked around both sides of the
foundation chain, before switching to rows.
TOP TAIL FEATHER (make 3, in green yarn + green Row 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in next
mohair) 11 ch, hdc in next 8 ch, dc in next 6 ch, 6 dc in last ch.
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, dc in
Rnd 2: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times [8] next 6 st, hdc in next 8 st, sc in next 11 st, turn [56]
Rnd 3 – 5: sc in all 8 st [8] Row 2: slst in all 56 st [56]
Fasten off on the first two feathers and weave in the Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 29).
yarn end. Don’t fasten off on the third feather. The
feathers don’t need to be stuffed. In the next round, SHORT TAIL FEATHERS (in white yarn)
we’ll join the top tail feathers together (picture 21). Tip: Work in the back bump of the chain for a neater
result.
Joining the top tail feathers (in green Ch 7. Crochet in rows.
yarn + green mohair)
Rnd 1: sc in next 3 st of the third feather, sc in next 3 st
of the second feather (picture 22), sc in next 6 st of
the first feather (picture 23), skip last 2 st of the first
feather, skip next st of the second feather (picture
24), sc in next 3 st of the second feather (picture 25),
skip last st of the second feather, skip next 2 st of the
third feather, sc in next 3 st of the third feather [18]
(pictures 26-27)
Note: There are little gaps between the feathers,
but since the feathers remain unstuffed and flat, they
are invisible.
Rnd 2 – 3: sc in all 18 st [18]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 28).

LONG TAIL FEATHER (make 2, in green yarn)


Ch 41. Stitches are worked around both sides of the
foundation chain, before switching to rows.
Row 1: start in second ch from the hook,
sc in next 16 ch, hdc in next 13 ch,
Emerald the quetzal 109

17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24

25 26 27 28

29 30
110 Emerald the quetzal

Joining starts here


10 11 12 13 14 1

9 2

8 7 6 5 4 3

1st SIDE MIDDLE 2nd SIDE


TOE TOE TOE

Legend: single crochet

31 32 33

Row 1: start in second ch from the hook, hdc in next next 2 st of the middle toe, sc in next 5 st of the first side
5 ch, ch 8, start in second ch from the hook, hdc in next toe, skip last st of this toe, skip 1 st of the middle toe,
6 ch, ch 9, start in second ch from the hook, hdc in next sc in next 2 st of the middle toe, skip next st of this toe,
15 16 19
7 ch, ch 8,
17 18
start
20
in second
23
ch24from the hook, hdc in next skip 1 st on the second side toe, sc in next st of the second
21 22
14
6 ch, ch 7, start in second ch from25the hook, hdc in next side toe [14]
5 ch [5 feathers attached at the base]
26 Note: There are little gaps between the toes, but since
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 30). the toes remain unstuffed and flat, they are invisible.
Joining starts here
12 Rnd 2: (dec, sc in next 5 st) repeat 2 times [12]
11 FOOT (make 2)
10
9 8
7 6
5 4
3 2
1
In the next round, we’ll make a gap to start making the
FIRST Start bySECOND
making 3 toes THIRD
for each foot, we’ll later join leg later.
FEATHER FEATHER FEATHER
them together to make the foot. Rnd 3: sc in next 2 st, ch 3, skip 3 st, sc in next 7 st [9 + 3 ch]
Legend: single crochet Rnd 4: dec, sc in next 3 ch, sc in next st, dec, sc in next
Middle toe (make 1 for each foot, 2 in total, in light 4 st [10]
yellow yarn) Rnd 5: dec 5 times [5]
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. The foot doesn’t need to
Rnd 2 – 5: sc in all 6 st [6] be stuffed. Using your yarn needle, weave the yarn tail
Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. The toes don’t through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull
need to be stuffed. it tight to close. Weave in the yarn ends.
Rnd 10

Side toe (make 2 for each foot, 4 in total, in light Rnd 9


LEG (in light yellow yarn)
Legend: yellow yarn) single crochet increase
single crochet Pull up a loop of light yellow yarn in the corner stitch
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] from the gap in round 3 of the foot.
Rnd 2 – 4: sc in all 6 st [6] Rnd 1: sc in the corner st, sc in next 3 st, sc in the
Fasten off on the first side toe and weave in the yarn corner st, sc in next 3 st [8]
end. Don’t fasten off on the second side toe. The toes Rnd 2 – 7: sc in all 8 st [8]
don’t need to be stuffed. In the next round, we’ll join Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The leg can be
the toes together. lightly stuffed with fiberfill, but stuffing is optional.

Joining the toes (in light yellow yarn) (picture 31) ASSEMBLY
Rnd 1: sc in next 4 st of the second side toe, sc in Tip: Use sewing pins to position all the pieces before
Emerald the quetzal 111

sewing them in place! (pictures 32-33) • Sew the top tail to the back of the body, between
• Sew the beak to the head over rounds 13 and 16, rounds 17 and 20.
centered between the eyes. • Sew the long tail feathers just below the top tail. Next,
• Sew the cheeks below and behind the eyes. sew the medium tail feathers below the long tail feath-
• Sew the head feathers to the back of the head, ers. Lastly, sew the white short tail feathers below the
between round 1 and 10. medium tail feathers.
• Sew the wings to the sides of the body, between • Sew the top of the legs to the bottom of the body,
rounds 22 and 28, positioned at a slight angle, with between rounds 38 and 39, approx. 6 stitches apart at the
the feathers pointing to the front. Sew only the front. Make sure that the position of the feet allows the
straight top side to the body, leaving the rest of the quetzal to sit and that the toes are pointing up.
wing unsewn.
Dune THE ostrich

Dune the ostrich has always been exceptional


with his long neck, mighty body and muscular
legs that boost him across the savannah at
lightning speed. Despite his massive size,
Dune is surprisingly graceful, balancing
on his tippy-toes like a feathered ballerina.
He’s definitely a gentle giant, serenely grazing
on plants and preening his magnificent feathers
Amigurumi gallery: Scan or visit
under the warm African sun. Who needs to fly
[Link]/4914
when you can outrun everyone?
to share pictures and find inspiration.
Dune the ostrich 113

In the next round, we start the loop stitch section. Make


the loops approx. 1" / 1.5 cm long, you should get a good
length by wrapping the yarn around your fingertip.
MATERIALS Tip: Work loop stitches every other round for a lighter
Light worsted weight yarn (Ricorumi) in result. If the loop stitch isn’t your forte, you can also
l beige (Ecru 054 – 2 balls) choose to use a fluffy yarn while working sc stitches.
l white (Cream 002) Note: The loops will sit on the inside/wrong side of your
l dark brown (Chocolate 057 – 4 balls) work. We will turn the piece later!
l pink (Clay 066) Rnd 13 – 30: loop st in all 72 st [72] (pictures 2-3)
B-1 / 2.5 mm crochet hook
Next, we close the center part of the body to create a
a pair of safety eyes (10 mm)
neck and tail opening. Skip next 30 st (picture 4) (these
tapestry needle
will form the neck opening), flatten the last round with
pins
the 31st stitch matching the last stitch (picture 5). Sc
stitch markers
in next 12 st through both layers to close the top of the
fiberfill
body (pictures 6-7), the remaining 18 stitches form the
SKILL LEVEL
***
SIZE 13.75" / 35 cm tall (without legs)
tail opening.
Turn the work inside out, now the loop stitches are on
when made with the indicated yarn. the outside of the work (picture 8). Stuff the body firmly
with fiberfill and continue stuffing as you go.

TAIL (in dark brown yarn)


BODY (start in dark brown yarn) Continue working around the 18 st tail opening (picture 9).
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 1 – 2: sc in all 18 st [18] (picture 10)
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the
Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] tail in the opposite direction to the body seam (picture
Rnd 4: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 6 times [24] 11). Use a tapestry needle to pass the ending yarn tail
Rnd 5: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 6 times [30] through the stitches to reach the side. Sew the top of the
Rnd 6: (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st) repeat 6 times [36] tail closed (picture 12). Weave in the yarn ends.
Rnd 7: (inc in next st, sc in next 5 st) repeat 6 times [42]
Rnd 8: (inc in next st, sc in next 6 st) repeat 6 times [48] NECK AND HEAD (start in white yarn)
Rnd 9: (inc in next st, sc in next 7 st) repeat 6 times [54] Pull up a loop of white yarn in the first skipped stitch
Rnd 10: (inc in next st, sc in next 8 st) repeat of Rnd 30 (picture 13). Work all around the 30 st neck
6 times [60] opening.
Rnd 11: (inc in next st, sc in next 9 st) repeat Rnd 1 – 3: sc in all 30 st [30] (picture 14)
6 times [66] Change to beige yarn.
Rnd 12: (inc in next st, sc in next 10 st) repeat Note: If there are tiny gaps at the joining point, you can
6 times [72] sew them closed with a separate yarn tail.
Slst in next st and turn the work over, so the wrong Rnd 4 – 26: sc in all 30 st [30] (picture 15)
side of the work is facing you (picture 1). Sc in next 4 st to reach the center back of the neck.
114 Dune the ostrich

Mark the last stitch with a stitch marker, this is the Rnd 12: (sc in next 4 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st)
new beginning of the round. repeat 2 times [24]
Rnd 27: sc in next 9 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) Rnd 13: (sc in next 5 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 6 st)
repeat 3 times, sc in next 9 st [33] repeat 2 times [28]
Rnd 28: sc in next 9 st, (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the beak
repeat 3 times, sc in next 9 st [36] lightly with fiberfill, then flatten the beak with the in-
Rnd 29 – 37: sc in all 36 st [36] creases on the sides.
Rnd 38: (sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat
6 times [30] WING (make 2)
Rnd 39: (dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat 6 times [24] Start by making 3 feathers for each wing, we’ll later join
Insert the safety eyes between rounds 31 and 32, them together to make the wing.
with an interspace of approx. 16 stitches at the front.
Stuff the neck and head with fiberfill and continue Feather (make 3 for each wing, 6 in total, in white yarn)
stuffing as you go. Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
Rnd 40: (sc in next st, dec, sc in next st) repeat Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10]
6 times [18]
Rnd 41: (dec, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [12]
Rnd 42: dec 6 times [6]
Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using your yarn
needle, weave the yarn tail through the front
loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight
to close. Weave in the yarn ends (picture 16).

BEAK (in pink yarn)


Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times [8]
Rnd 3: (3 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat
2 times [12]
Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 12 st [12]
Rnd 6: (sc in next 2 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st)
repeat 2 times [16]
Rnd 7 – 8: sc in all 16 st [16]
Rnd 9: (sc in next 3 st, 3 sc in next st,
sc in next 4 st) repeat 2 times [20]
Rnd 10 – 11: sc in all 20 st [20]
Dune the ostrich 115

1 2 3 4

5 6 7 8

9 10 11 12

13 14 15 16
116 Dune the ostrich

Rnd 3 – 5: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 8: (dec, sc in next 4 st) repeat 2 times [10]
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. The feathers Rnd 9: sc in all 10 st [10]
don’t need to be stuffed. Change to dark brown yarn.
Rnd 10 – 12: sc in all 10 st [10]
Joining the feathers (in dark brown yarn) Rnd 13: (dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat 2 times [8]
(picture 17) Rnd 14 – 15: sc in all 8 st [8]
Pull up a loop of dark brown yarn in any stitch of one Flatten the feather with the last stitch on the side. The
of the 3 feathers. In the next round, we’ll join the long tail feather doesn’t need to be stuffed. Work the next
feathers together. row through both layers to close the opening.
Rnd 1: sc in next 4 st of the first feather (picture 18), Closing row: sc in all 4 st [4]
skip last st of this feather, (picture 19) sc in next 4 st Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
of the second feather(picture 20), sc in next 9 st of
the third feather, skip last st of this feather, skip next SHORT TAIL FEATHER (make 3, start in white yarn)
st of the second feather (picture 21), sc in next 4 st Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
of the second feather, skip last st of this feather, skip Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
next st of the first feather, sc in next 5 st of the first Rnd 3 – 5: sc in all 12 st [12]
feather [26] (picture 22) Rnd 6: (dec, sc in next 4 st) repeat 2 times [10]
Note: There are little gaps between the feathers, Rnd 7: sc in all 10 st [10]
but since the feathers remain unstuffed and flat, they Change to dark brown yarn.
are invisible. Rnd 8 – 10: sc in all 10 st [10]
Rnd 2: sc in all 26 st [26] Rnd 11: (dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat 2 times [8]
Rnd 3: (dec, sc in next 11 st) repeat 2 times [24] Rnd 12 – 13: sc in all 8 st [8]
Rnd 4: sc in all 24 st [24] Flatten the feather with the last stitch on the side.
Rnd 5: (dec, sc in next 6 st) repeat 3 times [21] The short tail feather doesn’t need to be stuffed.
Rnd 6: sc in all 21 st [21] Work the next row through both layers to close the
Rnd 7: (dec, sc in next 5 st) repeat 3 times [18] opening.
Rnd 8: sc in all 18 st [18] Closing row: sc in all 4 st [4]
Rnd 9: (dec, sc in next 4 st) repeat 3 times [15] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 24).
Rnd 10: sc in all 15 st [15]
Rnd 11: (dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat 3 times [12] FOOT (make 2)
Rnd 12: dec 6 times [6] Start by making 2 toes for each foot, we’ll later join
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The wing them together to make the foot.
doesn’t need to be stuffed. Using your yarn needle,
weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each Toe (make 2 for each foot, 4 in total, in beige yarn)
remaining stitch and pull it tight to close (picture 23). Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
Leave the yarn tail for sewing. Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10]
Rnd 3 – 7: sc in all 10 st [10]
LONG TAIL FEATHER (make 2, start in white yarn) Fasten off on the first toe and weave in the yarn ends.
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Don’t fasten off on the second toe. In the next round
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] we’ll join the toes together. Stuff the tip of the toes
Rnd 3 – 7: sc in all 12 st [12] lightly with fiberfill.
8 7 6 5 4 3

1st SIDE MIDDLE 2nd SIDE


TOE TOE TOE
Dune the ostrich 117
Legend: single crochet

15 16 19 20 23 24
17 18 21 22
14 25

26
13

Joining starts here


12
9 8 5 4 1
11 10 7 6 3 2

FIRST SECOND THIRD


FEATHER FEATHER FEATHER

Legend: single crochet


17 18 19

Rnd 10
Rnd 9

Legend: single crochet single crochet increase

20 21 22 23

24 25 26 27

28 29 30 31
118 Dune the ostrich

32 33 34 35

Joining the toes (in beige yarn) Rnd 6: dec 5 times [5]
Rnd 1: sc in next 5 st of the first toe (picture 25), sc in Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using your yarn needle,
next 9 st of the second toe, skip last st of the second weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each
toe, skip next st of the first toe, sc in next 4 st of the remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the
first toe [18] (pictures 26-27) yarn ends.
Note: Use a tapestry needle and a separate piece
of beige yarn to sew the gap between the toes closed, LEG (in beige yarn)
either now or at the end (picture 28). Pull up a loop of beige yarn in the corner stitch from the
Rnd 2: (dec, sc in next 7 st) repeat 2 times [16] gap in round 3 of the foot.
Rnd 3: (dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat 4 times [12] Rnd 1: sc in the corner st (picture 30), sc in next 3 st,
In the next round, we’ll make a gap to start making sc in the corner st, sc in next 3 st [8]
the leg later. Rnd 2 – 15: sc in all 8 st [8]
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 st, ch 3, skip 3 st, sc in next 7 st If necessary, make additional sc to reach the center
[9 + 3 ch] (picture 29) back of the leg.
Rnd 5: dec, sc in next 3 ch, sc in next st, dec, sc in next Tip: Work the slst in round 16 rather loosely, so it’s not
4 st [10] too hard to work into them in round 17.
Stuff with more fiberfill if necessary. Rnd 16: slst in all 8 st [8]
Rnd 17: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 4 times [12]
Rnd 18 – 19: sc in all 12 st [12]
Rnd 20: (dec, sc in next st) repeat 4 times [8]
Tip: Work the slst in round 21 rather loosely, so it’s
not too hard to work into them in round 22.
Rnd 21: slst in all 8 st [8]
Rnd 22 – 24: sc in all 8 st [8]
Rnd 25: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 2 times [10]
Rnd 26: sc in all 10 st [10]
Rnd 27: (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st) repeat 2 times [12]
Rnd 28 – 32: sc in all 12 st [12]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 31).
The leg doesn’t need to be stuffed.
Dune the ostrich 119

ASSEMBLY
• Sew the beak to the head, between rounds 28 and • Pin the tail feathers to the tail part, with the 3 short
34, centered between the eyes, with the increases feathers in front of the 2 tall feathers (picture 33).
on the side. Sew them on using the dark brown yarn tails.
• Pin the wings to the body, with the feathers towards • Flatten and sew the top of the legs to the bottom of the
the back (pictures 32-33). Sew them to the body, body, over rounds 8 and 9, approx. 4 stitches apart at
starting from the magic ring, along the top of the the front (pictures 34-35). Make sure that the feet are
wing, leaving the bottom part and the feathers pointing up.
unsewn.
Tux
THE puffin
Tux the puffin and his island friends take
"dress code" to a whole new level. They're
always rocking those tuxedo-like feathers
and bright beaks, looking sharp everywhere
they go. He might have a goofy look on land,
waddling and swinging unsteadily from side
to side, but beneath the waves, Tux is in his
element. This charming little bird isn't just cute,
he’s a devoted parent, a skilled swimmer, and a
true marvel of the natural world.

Amigurumi gallery: Scan or visit


[Link]/4915
to share pictures and find inspiration.
Tux the puffin 121

HEAD AND BODY (start in black yarn)


Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
MATERIALS Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
Light worsted weight yarn (Ricorumi) in Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
l black (Black 060 – 3 balls) Rnd 4: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 6 times [24]
l white (Cream 002 – 2 balls) Rnd 5: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 6 times [30]
l orange (Fox 025) Rnd 6: (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st) repeat 6 times [36]
l gray (Mouse Gray 059) Rnd 7: (inc in next st, sc in next 5 st) repeat 6 times [42]
l yellow (Saffron 063 – leftover) Rnd 8 – 9: sc in all 42 st [42]
B-1 / 2.5 mm crochet hook Rnd 10: (sc in next 13 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [45]
a pair of safety eyes (12 mm) Rnd 11 – 12: sc in all 45 st [45]
tapestry needle Rnd 13: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st, sc in next 7 st)
pins repeat 3 times [48]
stitch markers Rnd 14 – 15: sc in all 48 st [48]
fiberfill Rnd 16: (sc in next 15 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [51]
Rnd 17 – 18: sc in all 51 st [51]
SKILL LEVEL
**
SIZE 10" / 26 cm tall (without legs) when
Rnd 19: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st, sc in next 8 st)
repeat 3 times [54]
made with the indicated yarn.
Rnd 20 – 21: sc in all 54 st [54]
Rnd 22: (sc in next 17 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [57]
Change to white yarn.
Rnd 23: sc in all 57 st [57]
EYE PATCH (make 2, in white yarn) Rnd 24: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st, sc in next 9 st)
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] repeat 3 times [60]
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 25: sc in all 60 st [60]
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 26: (sc in next 19 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [63]
Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat Rnd 27: sc in all 63 st [63]
6 times [24] Rnd 28: (sc in next 10 st, inc in next st, sc in next 10 st)
Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] repeat 3 times [66]
Rnd 6: sc in next 12 st, hdc in next st, 2 dc in next st, Rnd 29: sc in all 66 st [66]
tr in next st, 2 dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next Rnd 30: (sc in next 21 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [69]
13 st [32] Rnd 31: sc in all 69 st [69]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Insert a safety Rnd 32: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times,
eye between rounds 2 and 3, at the height of the tr sc in next 51 st [72]
stitch. Don’t close the washers yet. Rnd 33: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 3 st)
Use a piece of black yarn to embroider a short horizon- repeat 3 times, sc in next 51 st [75]
tal line below the eye (picture 1). Rnd 34: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times,
sc in next 51 st [78]
Rnd 35 – 42: sc in all 78 st [78]
122 Tux the puffin

Place the eye patches between rounds 9 and 20, Rnd 51: (dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat 6 times [24]
with the tr stitch pointing towards the back and the Rnd 52: (sc in next st, dec, sc in next st) repeat
patches almost touching in the center of the face. 6 times [18]
Make sure that the increases in rounds 32-34 of the Rnd 53: (dec, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [12]
body are directed towards the back. Insert the safety Rnd 54: dec 6 times [6]
eyes through the head, between rounds 14 and 15, Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using your yarn needle,
and close the washers (picture 2). Use the white yarn weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remain-
tail to sew the eye patches to the head. Stuff the head ing stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn ends.
and body firmly with fiberfill and continue stuffing as
you go. BEAK (make 2 parts, start in gray yarn)
Rnd 43: (dec, sc in next 11 st) repeat 6 times [72] Crochet in rows.
Rnd 44: (sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in next 5 st) repeat Row 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring, turn [5]
6 times [66] Row 2: ch 1, sc in next 2 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next
Rnd 45: (dec, sc in next 9 st) repeat 6 times [60] 2 st, turn [7]
Rnd 46: (sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 4 st) repeat Row 3: ch 1, sc in next 3 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next
6 times [54] 3 st, turn [9]
Rnd 47: (dec, sc in next 7 st) repeat 6 times [48] Row 4: ch 1, inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, 3 sc in next st,
Rnd 48: (sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, turn [13]
6 times [42] Change to yellow yarn.
Rnd 49: (dec, sc in next 5 st) repeat 6 times [36] Row 5: ch 1, inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, 3 sc in next st,
Rnd 50: (sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, turn [17] (picture 3)
6 times [30] Fasten off the yellow yarn. Skip 2 st and pull up a loop of
orange yarn (picture 4).
Row 6: ch 1, skip 1 st, sc in next 5 st, 3 sc in next st,
sc in next 5 st, slst in next st, turn [14] Leave the last
2 st of this row unworked.
Row 7: ch 1, skip 2 st, sc in next 5 st, 3 sc in next st,
sc in next 5 st, slst in next st, turn [14]
Row 8: ch 1, skip 2 st, sc in next 5 st, 3 sc in next st,
sc in next 5 st, slst in next st [14] (picture 5)
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Place the two
pieces with the wrong sides together and pull up a loop
of orange yarn in the first yellow stitch on the right side
(picture 6). Sc through both layers until you reach the last
yellow stitch on the left side (picture 7). Leave the gray
straight side of the beak open. Stuff the beak lightly with
fiberfill.

WING (make 2, in black yarn)


Ch 8. Stitches are worked around both sides of the
foundation chain.
Tux the puffin 123

1 2 3 4

5 6 7 8

Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in next sc in next 4 st) repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st [42]
6 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Continue on the other side of the Rnd 11: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st)
foun­dation chain, sc in next 6 st [15] (picture 8) repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st [45]
Rnd 2: sc in next 6 st, inc in next 3 st, sc in next 6 st [18] Rnd 12: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st,
Rnd 3: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next st, inc in next st) sc in next 5 st) repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st [48]
repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st [21] Rnd 13: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next 11 st, inc in next st)
Rnd 4: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next st, inc in next st, repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st [51]
sc in next st) repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st [24] Rnd 14: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st,
Rnd 5: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) sc in next 6 st) repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st [54]
repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st [27] Rnd 15: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next 13 st, inc in next st)
Rnd 6: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st [57]
sc in next 2 st) repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st [30] Rnd 16: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st,
Rnd 7: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) sc in next 7 st) repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st [60]
repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st [33] Rnd 17: sc in all 60 st [60]
Rnd 8: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, The wing doesn’t need to be stuffed. Flatten the wing
sc in next 3 st) repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st [36] and, if necessary, make a few additional sc or undo a few
Rnd 9: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) to reach the straight side. Work the next row through
repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st [39] both layers to close the opening.
Rnd 10: sc in next 6 st, (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st, Closing row: sc in all 30 st [30] (pictures 9-10)
124 Tux the puffin

Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. The wing Row 12: ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 14 st, turn [14]
doesn’t need to be stuffed. Row 13 – 17: ch 1, sc in all 14 st, turn [14]
Row 18: ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 13 st, turn [13]
TAIL + BACK (in black yarn) Row 19 – 23: ch 1, sc in all 13 st, turn [13]
Ch 10. Stitches are worked around both sides of the Row 24: ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 12 st, turn [12]
foundation chain. Row 25 – 26: ch 1, sc in all 12 st, turn [12]
Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in next Row 27: ch 1, sc in all 12 st [12]
8 ch, 5 sc in last ch. Continue on the other side of the Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 11).
foundation chain, sc in next 7 st, 4 sc in last st [24]
Rnd 2: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next 3 st) repeat FOOT (make 2, in orange yarn)
2 times [30] Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 3 – 7: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 2: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 3 times [9]
The tail doesn’t need to be stuffed. Flatten the tail and, In the next round, we’ll make a gap to start making the
if necessary, make a few additional sc or undo a few to leg later.
reach the side. Work the next row through both layers Rnd 3: sc in next 3 st, ch 3, skip 3 st, sc in next 3 st
to close the opening. [6 + 3 ch] (picture 12)
Row 8: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 4: inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, inc in next ch, sc in
Continue crocheting in rows. next 2 ch, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st [12]
Row 9 – 11: ch 1, sc in all 15 st, turn [15] Rnd 5: sc in all 12 st [12]
Tux the puffin 125

9 10 11 12

13 14 15 16

17 18 19 20

Rnd 6: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 3 times [15] slst + ch 2 + dc in next st, skip 1 st, slst in next 2 st, slst +
Rnd 7: sc in all 15 st [15] ch 2 + dc in next st, slst in next st [3 toes] (picture 16)
Rnd 8: (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st) repeat 3 times [18] Fasten off and weave in the yarn end.
Rnd 9: sc in all 18 st [18]
The foot doesn’t need to be stuffed. Flatten the foot LEG (in orange yarn)
with the last stitch on the side (picture 13). Work the Pull up a loop of orange yarn in the corner stitch from the
next row through both layers to close the opening. gap in round 3 of the foot (picture 17).
Closing row: sc in all 9 st (picture 14), turn [9] Rnd 1: sc in the corner st, sc in next 3 st, sc in the corner
Toes: ch 2, dc in first st (picture 15), slst in next st, st, sc in next 3 st [8]
126 Tux the puffin

21 22 23 24

Rnd 2 – 7: sc in all 8 st [8] beak and safety eyes to position the tail+back symmetri-
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 18). cally in the center. Sew the top and the sides of the back to
The leg can be lightly stuffed with fiberfill, but stuffing the body (pictures 20-21).
is optional. • Pin the wings to the body, with the short straight side
positioned on the last black round of the head. The curved
ASSEMBLY side is directed towards the front and there are approx.
Tip: Use sewing pins to position all the pieces before 20 stitches between the wings at the front. Sew only the
sewing them in place! top of the wing to the body, leaving the rest of the wing
• Slightly open the beak and pin it between the eyes, unsewn (pictures 22-23).
it will cover the last 2 rounds of the eye patches • Sew the top of the legs to the bottom of the body,
(picture 19). Sew the beak to the head using gray yarn over rounds 48 and 49, approx. 9 stitches apart at the
or sewing thread in a matching color. front (picture 24). Make sure that the position of the feet
• Pin the tail+back to the body, with the last row posi- allows the puffin to sit and that the feet are pointing up.
tioned on the last black round of the body. Look at the
Tux the puffin 127
128 Thank you

Thank you to everyone who has flipped through the pages of my book and brought my crochet birds
to life! I imagine them hatching in your homes and that fills me with joy. I hope you enjoyed the
patterns and the short stories that accompany each one of them.
Thank you to my editors, Joke, Dora and Bruno, for allowing me to spread my wings on this long-
cherished dream project. To Rico Design to support this project with all the yarn needed, in the perfect
colors. To my life partner, Carmine, my family and friends who patiently endured a year of bird-related
inquiries and never got tired of my window-gazing excuses in the name of crochet inspiration!
Thank you to all the proofreaders, for the meticulous work of spotting those tiny mistakes hidden
between the numbers.
Thank YOU for joining me on this journey to the very last page. Many more feathered friends wait on
the horizon, and I hope you'll continue to follow me as they take flight!
Ciao, I am Ilaria Caliri, a crochet and amigurumi designer
from Italy. I stumbled across amigurumi and started my
first blog in 2010. I was instantly captivated by the crochet
geometry of these adorable characters, and what better way
to explore this magic than by giving life to my own playful
amigurumi friends?
My patterns found their home on [Link] (yes,
that's "Ilaria" spelled backwards!) and soon I was
collaborating with magazines and publishers, creating
my books Amigurumi Winter Wonderland, Amigurumi
Globetrotters, Nightmare Before Christmas Crochet and more.
Hundreds of characters later, the thrill of seeing my sketches
transform into 3D amigurumi characters never fades. It's a
joy to know my patterns bring a smile, a moment of calm or a
spark of creativity to people across the world. When I’m not
busy designing, I enjoy trying other crafts, taking long walks
and experimenting with new veggie dishes — yum!

My website: [Link]/en
My Facebook page: [Link]/airalidesign
My Instagram profile: @airali_gray

You might also like