Cute Yoshigurumi
pattern By Faye's Crochaye
@fayescrochaye
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this pattern and claim it as your own. You may sell toys you've made using
pattern, as long as it's in small quantities and that you credit me as
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other people are making using my pattern!
As tested by @thehookedhound As tested by @ellangelicsart
As tested by @emmafaitdesnoeuds
As tested by @tutti_crochet
As tested by @cravamimo As tested by @ale_crochet4life
Difficulty: Intermediate. There aren't any difficult stitches but there are
many steps and pieces to assemble. You can wait until the end to
assemble everything, or if you're anything like me and like to assemble as
you go I would recommend waiting until you have the strip done as it is
needed as a guide to position the tail, body and head. Different pieces can
be made in any order but I have sorted them in the order that they should
be assembled.
Materials: DK yarn in green (or whatever colour Yoshi you want to make),
white, orange, red, light brown, yellow, red, pink, black; hook (I used
3mm, choose according to your yarn size); sewing needle; safety eyes
(optional); stitch markers (recommended); wire (optional). Finished toy is
approximately 11.5cm / 4.5 inches; this will vary depending on your yarn
and hook size.
Terminology [US terms]:
MR: magic ring / magic circle
sc: single crochet
inc: increase
dec: decrease
ch: chain
FLO: front loop only
BLO: back loop only
A number in brackets at the end of the row indicates how many stitches
are in this row. When working in rows instead of rounds, each row ends
with “chain 1 and turn”. This chain doesn't count as a stitch and the next
stitch goes in the second loop from the hook (last stitch of previous row).
BODY:
in main colour
R1: 6sc in MR [6]
R2: 6inc [12]
R3: 1sc 1inc x6 [18]
R4: 2sc 1inc x6 [24]
R5: 3sc 1inc x6 [30]
R6: 30sc [30]
R7: 10sc, 1sc 1inc x5, 10sc [35]
R8: 35sc [35]
R9: 10sc, 1sc 1dec x5, 10sc [30]
R10: 10sc, 5dec, 10sc [25]
R11: 25sc [25]
R12: 3sc 1dec x5 [20]
R13: 20sc [20]
R14: 2sc 1dec x5 [15]
R15-16 (2 rounds): 15sc, start stuffing [15]
R17: 1sc 1dec x5, tie off and leave long tail for sewing [10]
TAIL:
in main colour
R1: 6sc in MR [6]
R2: 1sc 1inc x3 [9]
R3-5 (3 rounds): 9sc [9]
R6: 2sc 1inc x3 [12]
R7: 12sc [12]
R8: 3sc 1inc x3, tie off and leave long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly. [15]
MOUTH AND WHITE STRIP:
Step 1 (mouth, in pink):
R1: ch2, chain 1 and turn [2]
R2: 2sc, chain 1 and turn [2]
R3: 2inc, chain 1 and turn [4]
R4: 4sc, tie off, do not leave a tail for
sewing [4]
Step 2 (strip, in white):
R1: ch2, chain 1 and turn [2]
R2: 2sc, chain 1 and turn [2]
R3: 2inc, chain 1 and turn [4]
R4-5: 4sc, chain 1 and turn [4]
R6: 1inc, 2sc, 1inc, chain 1 and turn [6]
R7-13 (7 rows): 6sc, chain 1 and turn [6]
R14: 1inc, 4sc, 1inc, chain 1 and turn [8]
R15-23 (9 rows): 8sc, chain 1 and turn [8]
R24: 1dec, 4sc, 1dec, chain 1 and turn [6]
R25-27 (3 rows): 6sc, chain 1 and turn [6]
R28: 1dec, 2sc, 1dec, chain 1 and turn [4]
R29-31 (4 rounds): 4sc, chain 1 and turn
[4]
R32: 2dec, chain 1 and turn [2]
R33: 1dec [1]
Ch1 then crochet a round of sc all
around the stripe. When you get to the
top at R4, place the mouth part on top
of it and crochet the two pieces
together, then continue crocheting sc
until the end. Tie off and leave long tail
for sewing.
HEAD:
in main colour
R1: 6sc in MR [6]
R2: 6inc [12]
R3: 1sc 1inc x6 [18]
R4: 2sc 1inc x6 [24]
R5: 3sc 1inc x6 [30]
R6-8 (3 rounds): 30sc [30]
R9: 3sc 1dec x6 [24]
R10: 2sc 1dec x6 [18]
R11: 1sc 1dec x6, start stuffing [12]
R12: 1sc 1inc x6 [18]
R13: 2sc 1inc x6 [24]
R14: 3sc 1inc x6 [30]
R15-17 (3 rounds): 30sc [30]
R18: 3sc 1dec x6 [24]
R19: 2sc 1dec x6 [18]
R20: 1sc 1dec x6, finish stuffing [12]
R21: 6dec, tie off and [Link] not leave a
tail
CHEEKS (make 2):
in white
R1: 6sc in MR [6]
R2: 6inc [12]
R3: 1sc 1inc x6, finish with a slip stitch and tie
off, leave a tail for sewing [18]
EYES (4steps):
Step 1, in white Step 2, in main colour:
R1: 4sc in MR [4] R1: 4sc in MR [4]
R2: 4 inc [8] R2: 4 inc [8]
R3-4 (2 rounds): 8sc. R3-5 (3 rounds): 8sc. Do
Tie off and leave not tie off [8]
a tail for sewing [8]
Step 3:
Flatten the main colour part and white part on top of each other and join them
with a row of sc in main colour (follow the red line in third picture below). Do
not sc over the opening. Tie off and leave a long tail for sewing. Insert a safety
eye in the middle of the white part or embroider the pupil in black. Repeat
steps 1 to 3 to make the second eye.
Step4:
Join the eyes together: sew the edge of the white parts together for about
3 stitches starting at the bottom and going upwards. Do the same with the
main colour parts but for only 2 stitches. (see pictures below, follow the red
marker lines as sewing points). Note: the eyes do not need to be stuffed.
SPIKES (make 3):
in orange
R1: 4sc in MR [4]
R2: 4inc [8]
R3-4 (2 rounds):8sc, tie off and leave tail for
sewing. Do not stuff. [8]
SADDLE:
start in red
R1: 4sc in MR [4]
R2: 4inc [8]
R3: 1sc 1inc x4 [12]
R4: 2sc 1inc x4 [16]
R5: switch to white, 16sc FLO, finish with a slip
stitch skipping one stitch, tie off and leave tail
for sewing. Do not stuff, or stuff very lightly.
[16]
ARMS [make 2]:
in main colour
R1: 4sc in MR [4]
R2: 4inc [8]
R3: 1sc 1inc x4 [12]
R4: 12sc [12]
R5: 1sc 1dec x4 [8]
R6-11 (6 rounds): 8sc, tie off and leave tail for
sewing. Stuff lightly and add wire if desired.[8]
LEGS (make 2)
start in yellow
R1: chain 3, chain 1 and turn
R2: 3sc, then instead of turning make 3 more sc on the other side of the
chain to start working in spirals [6]
R3: 1inc, 2sc, 2inc, 1sc, 1inc [11]. Note: the first increase should be in the
turn chain at the end of R1 instead of the first sc of R2. If you're getting 10
stitches instead of 11 check that first increase. Increases are in the corners
of the sole of the shoe.
R4: 1inc, 3sc, 1inc, 1sc, 1inc, 3sc, 1inc [15]
R5: switch to light brown, BLO 15sc [15]
R6: 15sc [15]
R7: 4sc, 3dec, 5sc [12]
R8: 4sc, 2dec, 4sc [10]
R9: FLO 10sc. Stuff up to R8 only [10]
R10: switch to main colour. BLO 10sc [10]
R11-13 (3 rounds): 10sc [10]
R14: 1sc 1dec x3, tie off and leave tail for sewing. The leg doesn't need to be
stuffed, only the shoe. [6]
ASSEMBLY:
1. Sew the body, strip and tail together: pin the stripe in position on the
body and the tail with the mouth (pink) facing towards the back so you
can use it as a guide. The mouth part should stick out at the edge of the
neck with 1-2 free rows between the start of the mouth and the neck, and
the tip of the strip should be near the end of the tail. You might have to
stretch the strip a little. Use pins or stitch markers to hold everything
in place and start sewing.
2. Sew the head on the neck.
It should be placed slightly
forward so that the mouth
can be slightly open
3. place the cheeks so that the
edge touches the nose, and
the bottom part should be
touching the edge of the
mouth once on the neck. Sew
the cheeks to the face with 1-
2 stitches to the corners of
the mouth for continuity.
4. Sew the eyes on top of the head. They should be
centered in relation to the cheeks and 1 or 2 rows
away from the start of the nose.
5. Sew the spikes behind the head
ASSEMBLY (continued)
6. Sew the saddle to the body so that the back sits on the edge of the tail
7. Sew the arms and legs. I would recommend sewing the legs in a sitting
position unless you're going to add a keyring to it, as your Yoshi won't be
able to stand on his own power.
[Link] your creation!