Copyright by Isabella Mueller / handmade_by_bella.

mue

Soft Breeze Top + Dress

(version: only covered)

FREE VERSION: This version is only a part of the Soft Breeze pattern!

This version contains only the tutorial for the covered parts. You can use this
version for a piece made entirely covered..

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 Copyright by Isabella Mueller / handmade_by_bella.mue

Please note:

● This pattern is for your personal use only. It‘s not allowed to share it in any
way like copying for someone else or publishing a video tutorial or parts of
the pattern.
● You can sell your finished product but have to credit me as the designer
(Instagram: handmade_by_bella.mue). Only use your own photos for selling
your product, not mine or others.
● You are not allowed to do a mass production.
● I would be pleased if you share your result on Instagram and tag me
(handmade_by_bella.mue).

And now let's start the fun part!

What you need:

● yarn
● crochet hook for your yarn
● stitch markers
● what you always need: scissors, needle

Abbreviations (US terms):

ch - chain (ch2 - 2 chains)

sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
sl st - slip stitch
sk - skip (sk4 - skip 4 stitches)
dc2tog - double crochet 2 stitches together
sm - stitch marker

About the pattern:

The pattern is worked from top to bottom.

You start with the flat back panel, to which you directly connect the flat front
panel, connect them under the arms and then continue working in the round.
This makes the pattern seamless. You can make a simple straight shape or use
increases/decreases to create a body-hugging fit. You can also add sleeves,
ribbing or slits.
You will find a mesh and a covered description for everything. So the project can
be all mesh, all covered or anything in between. (NOT IN THE FREE VERSION)

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 Copyright by Isabella Mueller / handmade_by_bella.mue

Table of contents

Important to know ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 4

Measurements ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 6

B) Body - covered ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 8

B-1) Upper back panel
B-2) Upper front panel
B-3) Connect under the arm
B-4) Body
B-5) Slit(s) (optional)

C) End of the body / end of the long sleeves (optional) ……………………………………. 21

C-1) Row of single crochets
C-2) Row of half double crochets
C-3) Ribbing

D) Neckline (optional) ……………………………………………………………………………………………………... 25

D-1) Row of single crochets
D-2) Row of half double crochets
D-3) Ribbing

E) Armhole / Sleeves (optional) …………………………………………………………………………………… 29

E-1) Row of single crochets
E-2) Row of half double crochets
E-6) Long sleeves - covered (body: covered)
E-7) Ribbing

(NOT IN THE FREE VERSION)

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 Copyright by Isabella Mueller / handmade_by_bella.mue

Important to know

1) Back panel and front panel are almost the same

The front and back panels only differ in the first row, as the front panel creates a
neckline.
So when you start with the back panel and want to check your measurements on
your body while crocheting, you can also check this on your front. The front panel
will be repeated later with the same width and number of rows.

2) Turn after each row

The fact that you have to turn after flat rows is self-explanatory. But we also turn
after each row in the round.

3) Stacked sc as first dc of each row

Instead of ch3 for a dc, this pattern starts the row with a stacked sc. This is the first
'dc' of the row.

Do not chain. Make a sc in the first stitch. Now you have to make another sc on
top of this sc. For that insert the hook in the little left leg (highlighted in green) of
the sc and make the second sc as if you had stitched into the next stitch. That is
the stacked sc.

When you work in the round, make the stacked sc in the stitch where you made
the sl st in, so in the stacked sc of the previous row.

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 Copyright by Isabella Mueller / handmade_by_bella.mue

6) Increases/decreases - covered (optional)

Always place your increases/decreases symmetrical on both sides.

To increase, dc2 instead of just dc in a stitch:

To decrease, dc2tog:

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 Copyright by Isabella Mueller / handmade_by_bella.mue

Measurements

First we need to know how long the chain we start with needs to be. To do this,
we measure flat from one armpit to the other. This is our measurement A:

A= armpit to armpit= ____________________

Then we need to know how far we need to go straight down the panels before we
start the side increases. To do this, we measure from the middle of the shoulder to
just below the beginning of the armpit. This is our measurement B. Just below
means that there is only a small distance (approx. 1 cm or 0.4 inch) so that the
armhole does not cut into the beginning of your armpit. (If you want an extra
wide armhole, you will need to measure instead where you want the increase to
begin.)

B= shoulder to just below beginning of armpit= ____________________

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 Copyright by Isabella Mueller / handmade_by_bella.mue

To make sure the neckline goes over the head, we need the head circumference.
And since we divide this measurement between the front and back panels, we
also need half of this circumference:

C= head circumference = ____________________

C/2= ____________________

Then we need to know how wide the circumference needs to be in the round
after connecting under the arms. This is your measurement D.
In order to distribute it evenly to the front and back panels, we also need half of
this circumference

If you plan increases/decreases for a perfect fit, measurement D is at least your

chest circumference.

If you want to make your project straight, i.e. without increases/decreases, this
measurement must be at least the widest circumference that is covered.
But also pay attention to planned slits. My widest part for a long shirt would be
my hips. However, if I want slits to start at my waist and not cover everything at
the side of the hip, my widest part that is covered would be the circumference of
my chest or (hips minus slits).

D= at least circumference of chest or widest covered part= ____________________

D/2= ____________________

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 Copyright by Isabella Mueller / handmade_by_bella.mue

B) Body - covered

B-1) Upper back panel

1. Chain an odd number of stitches the length of your measurement A

(without stretching!). Make sure the stitches are neither too tight nor too
loose, otherwise it will later be narrower or wider than your measurement
A.

2. Chain 1 more and make a stacked sc in the second chain from the hook (so
in the chain before the one you just made). Dc in every following chain until
the end of the row. You must end up with an odd number of dc (stacked sc
included). Turn

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 Copyright by Isabella Mueller / handmade_by_bella.mue

Check whether you have reached width A. If not, measure how many
stitches are too many/too few. Frog the row and correct the number of
chains with the number you just measured/calculated.

3. Stacked sc, dc in every following stitch until the end of the row. You must
end up with an odd number of dc (stacked sc included). Turn.
Repeat this row until you reach your measurement B (then continue with
step 4) or until you want to add a mesh row (then continue with A-1, step 3
or step 4 if you reached your measurement B).

4. Stacked sc, then dc again in the first dc. Dc in every following stitch until
the end of the row. Dc again in the last stitch. You must end up with an odd
number of dc (stacked sc included). Turn.
Repeat this row until you reach the height under the armpit, just above the
point where the armhole should end. When connecting the front and back
panels, the height of another row will be added to the armhole! It's best to
hold it against the front of your body to check. The width D/2 doesn’t have
to be reached here yet.
(For my size with hooks size 4.5-5.5 these are about 2-3 rows.

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5. When you have reached your desired height for the armhole, fasten off and
start with that upper front panel (B-2).

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 Copyright by Isabella Mueller / handmade_by_bella.mue

B-2) Upper front panel

The front panel is now connected directly to the top of the back panel. In the first
row the neckline is created.
To do this, we have to calculate again how many stitches need to be made for the
straps and how many chains for the neckline.

E= odd number of dc on top of back panel (count!)= ____________________

F= odd number of dc that correspond to your measurement C/2 (measure and

count!)= ____________________

G= E - F = remaining number of dc for both straps= ____________________

Note: G has to be a [(multiple of 4)+2], so 6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26, 34, 38, 42,…!
If it is not, add 2 to your old F and calculate G again.

H= G/2 = odd number of dc per strap= ___________________

J= E - G = remaining odd number of dc for neckline= ____________________

K= J - 4 = odd number of chains for neckline= ____________________

1. Attach the yarn at the top corner where the starting thread of the back
panel is and make a stacked sc. Dc in every following stitch until you have
H dc (stacked sc included). Dc2 again in the same stitch. Then chain K, skip
J stitches and dc in the stitch after. Dc2 again in the same stitch. Dc in
every following stitch until the end of the row. If everything is correct, both
straps have the same odd number of dc. Check if the neckline fits over your
head. Turn.

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Copyright by Isabella Mueller / handmade_by_bella.mue

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2. Stacked sc and dc in every following dc and chain. If everything is correct

the number of the dc (stacked sc included) should be E again. Turn.

3. Now repeat everything in the same way as with the back panel from row 3
(A-1 and B-1, steps 3 and 4). But don‘t fasten off! In the end, both panels
should have the same number of rows and the same number of squares/dc
at the bottom. Turn. Then continue with B-3.

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 Copyright by Isabella Mueller / handmade_by_bella.mue

B-3) Connect under the arm

1. Stacked sc, then dc again in the first dc. Dc in every following stitch until
the end of the row. Dc again in the last stitch.

Now we connect the back and front panel to work in a round. To get the right
circumference, we make chains under the arms.
We can easily calculate the number of chains:

L= width after the last row (step 1) you made (stretch it a bit at the corners and
measure from corner to corner!)= ____________________

M= (D/2) - L = width under each arm= ____________________

If you get 0 or a negative number here, you have already reached your required
circumference. Then you don't have to calculate the following and P=1.

Measure in your panel how many dc correspond to the measurement M:

P= odd number of dc that correspond M (measure and count!)= number of chains

under arm= ____________________

2. Chain P and dc in the next bottom corner on the other panel. Make sure
nothing is twisted. Dc again in the first stitch. Dc in every following stitch
until the end of the row. Dc again in the last stitch. Chain P and sl st in the
stacked sc of the first panel. Turn.

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3. Continue with the B-4 for working in the round.

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 Copyright by Isabella Mueller / handmade_by_bella.mue

B-4) Body

Note the information 6 of ‘Important to know‘ for increases/decreases!

1. Stacked sc, dc in every following stitch until the end of the row. Dc also in
each stitch of the chain (P dc on each chain). At the end of the row after the
last dc, sl st in the stacked sc from the beginning. Turn.

2. Stacked sc, dc in every following stitch until the end of the row. At the end
of the row after the last dc, sl st in the stacked sc from the beginning. Turn.
Repeat this row until you want to add a slit (then continue with B-5) or until
you reach your desired length. At the end you can fasten off or turn and
continue with C) to add a row of sc, hdc or a ribbing.

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