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arunachal pradesh

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 Traveller
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2 3
contents
INTRODUCTION 08

trekking/cycling
n Namdapha National Park 20
n Trekking in Tirap 34
n Five Treks in Dibang Valley 42
n PasangSonam Tso Trek 52
in Mechuka
n Bailey Trail, Thembang 60
n Cycling in Arunachal 64

Birding/wildlife
n A Birder’s Guide to Arunachal 80
n Pakke Tiger Reserve 86
n Dibang Valley 96
n A Wildlife Filmmaker’s Diary 110

Wet And Wild

Rafting, Angling, Fishing
n Angling in Arunachal 116
n Rafting in Arunachal 122

Paragliding
n Mechuka and Lumdung 132

iNformation
n Travel Essentials 138
n Tourist/Wildlife Offices 150
n Tour Operators, Stay 151

4
 Photographs by sanjiv valsan
in Arunachal, especially for
fish heavier than 5kg.

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

The river slices through

wild and thickly forested
woods on the higher
reaches of the Mishmi Hills
near Anini, where it enters
India from Tibet, before
crossing one of the world’s
most unique high-altitude
tiger habitats (thanks to the
conservation-based culture
of the Idu Mishmi tribe), and
finally reaches the Lower
introduction

introduction
Dibang Valley, where it can
get really moody before
joining the Brahmaputra.

Introduction Arunachal is a camper’s delight Dambuk is also the venue

of the Orange Festival of
king routes in the country. Adventure and Music held
■ Sanjiv Valsan unexplored wildlife and The Dibang River is one of in mid-December every
indigenous tribal cultures. A the toughest in Arunachal year. This is an unusual but

T
he land of high journey through the state for rafting, and calls for a lot successful mix of modern
mountains, deep can be a heady and of skill. There are some international music, off-
gorges, turbulent addictive experience in great spots along the river roading activities and
rivers and landscapes every way possible. where you can hike up pris- adventure sports.
ranging from dense tropical tine forests and go angling, The Mehao Wildlife
rainforests, high-altitude The Dibang Valley all with the backdrop of Sanctuary, with its two-day
wetlands, and alpine forests The upper and middle sec- spectacular views. Mehao Lake trek, is the
to rugged snow-clad peaks, tions of the Dibang Valley ‘Catch-and-Release’ is most accessible-yet-
Arunachal Pradesh is full of have some of the best trek- the norm with game fishing unexplored wildlife hike in

8 9
 the Lower Dibang Valley in the Dibang Valley, to the
district, accessed through Siang River in Tuting, cover-

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

Roing town, which in turn is ing a legally protected area

easily reached from of over 5,000 sq km, at an
Dibrugarh. altitudinal range between
1,500 and 5,000 m above
Dihang-Dibang sea level. It constitutes
Biosphere Reserve diverse terrains, habitats,
The Dihang-Dibang ecosystems and wildlife.
Biosphere Reserve is one of Pemako, an unbelievably
the seven officially protect- beautiful Shangri-La-esque
ed ‘biospheres’ of India. It place, is associated with the
extends from Mipi and Anini ancient sacred myths and
ancestry stories of at least
introduction

introduction
An orange orchard three tribes in the region,
and can be a gruelling trek.
Prayer flags fluttering around Sela Lake
Western Arunachal
Arunachal Pradesh’s big lure the highest mountains in Sela Pass also attracts both
for hardcore mountaineers the state, colourful Tibetan- road-trippers and cyclists
is that while there have style Buddhist culture, good through the Bhalukpong-
already been expeditions to accommodation and easy Tawang route, where com-
peaks such as Gorichen road connectivity from petitive cycling events like
(6,488m), paving the way for Assam, it’s not surprising MTB Tawang have now
future climbers, there are that Western Arunachal become yearly affairs. Off-
many others that have not (Tawang and West Kameng roading has also begun to
yet been scaled, standing districts) has become the gain popularity.
tall as open challenges. state’s most visited zone, The Kameng River, after
These include Kangto and is popular among which two districts have
(7,060m), the highest peak trekkers and birders. The been named, is popular
in the state. With some of motorable snow-covered among rafters. Angling is

10 11
 good on a couple of For beginners, the river can
stretches; the best parts of be a good option

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

the Kameng are mostly downstream from Yinkiong

gorge areas that are and Geku.
inaccessible by road or foot, One of the best
and need to be reached commercial rafting areas is
by boat. at the easily accessible
Pasighat. This stretch is
Along the Siang ideal for Rishikesh-style day
The Siang is one of the programmes and long
great transnational rivers of weekend camping trips at
Asia and an ideal destina- Pongging village, which has
tion for whitewater rafting. good views and caves to
explore nearby. This is also
introduction

introduction
Tourists enjoying rafting the site of ‘Siang Rush,’ an
annual rafting expedition.
In Basar, hunting and Rafting along a gentle stretch of water in Arunachal
fishing have been
completely banned at the the Siang, the Daying Ering even short weekend angling
village level, to regenerate Wildlife Sanctuary is picnics, the Papum-Poma
what has been lost through Arunachal’s only protected confluence, near Itanagar, is
recent unsustainable fishing wildlife area on an island. It popular among locals.
practices. Traditional attracts birds such as the
community fishing, however, black-breasted parrotbill, Further North
is not just permitted once a swap prinia and Jerdon’s For fly-fishing in shallow
year, but is also celebrated babbler. The Dibang-Bodak- waters, you must head to
with gusto at the Basar Boleng is one of the most Mechuka, a picture-perfect
Confluence, a cultural event popular angling circuits high-altitude valley near the
bringing together a cluster among Indian anglers, who Indo-Tibetan border other-
of villages. typically spend two or three wise known for its annual
Located in the middle of nights at each place. For adventure festival,

12 13
 Adventure@Mechukha, East Kameng because of
which is held in November. Mechuka’s moody winds.

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

While not as popular as the

Bhalukpong-Dirang-Tawang The Subansiri Districts
MTB circuit, Mechuka is also The Subansiri River snakes
very much on the cycling through central Arunachal
map (routes going via Pradesh and is a suitable
Basar/Aalo). There’s also a rafting spot for beginners.
‘downhill-cycling’ scene The best mahseer
here. Paragliding in angling here is mostly lower
Mechuka is not nearly as down though, towards the
predictable as more reliable Lower and West Siang
spots like Pappu Valley in districts, which aren’t
accessible by road or foot.
introduction

introduction
A trekker enjoys the hill view You have to take a rafting
trip to go angling here. Trekkers in the Namdapha National Park

The Wild East dense and mountainous that stretch of white water. As for
Namdapha is officially a ‘tiger spoting mammals outside angling, while some say that
reserve,’ but from a practical caera traps can either be there aren’t many bites
perspective, it’s better for rare, accidental, or involve there, others swear by their
spotting birds, butterflies, days or even weeks of climb- secret spots on the Lohit
week-long jungle treks, and ing through tough terrain and River, closer to Tezu.
camping by the wild beaches dense forests. A trek up to Dong (a hilly
of the Noa-Dihing River. As Like the Kameng, the village in the Anjaw district
with most tiger reserves in Lohit River in Eastern bordering China that sees
Arunachal, enter without Arunachal is also great for the first sunrise in India) can
absolute expectations of rafting, but certainly not for be an enchanting
sighting a big cat, especially beginners. While coming experience. This is a
if you are on a short trip. The down from the Walong popular stopover for bikers
jungles of Arunachal are so area, it’s a tough Class V and MTB cyclists. ■

14 15
introduction

introduction
Adrenaline
in arunachal pradesh Department of Tourism
From trekking in the high mountains around Tawang to rafting in Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India
the white rapids in the Siang, unleash the real adventure junkie Phone: +91-360-2214745 | E-mail: tourismdirectorap@[Link]
in you in Arunachal Pradesh. follow us on Arunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm
 trekking

trekking
cycling&

namdapha national park

 Photographs by sanjiv valsan

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

namdapha national park

trekking

The Noa-Dihing flows through Namdapha; riverside trek (facing page) range office and accom- more multilayered
modation are located, is experience, and
sort of a basecamp within recommended only for real
Namdapha National Park Namdapha, and this is adventure enthusiasts with
where most excursions an open return plan.
■ Sanjiv Valsan monsoon forest. It is one of begin and end.
the world’s greatest While the trek to ‘52nd Birding trek

W
ith a core area of biodiversity hotspots and is Mile’ camping spot is the
1,808 sq km and a a legend among birders. last point in the core area Deban to 52nd Mile and
buffer zone of 177 The best (and perhaps direction where the general back (6–7 days):
sq km, and a massive the only) way to experience public is allowed to trek, the This modular route is the
altitudinal range, Namdapha both wildlife and indigenous Namdapha-Vijoynagar trek, most popular hike among
is a rare combination of tribal culture in Namdapha on the defunct old Miao- birders who come from all
Himalaya highlands, Bengal is by trekking. Deban, where Vijoynagar Route to the over the world, and involves
rainforest and Burma the forest department’s Indo-Myanmar border, is a crossing the forests and

20 21
 Photographs: shutterstock
banks close to the impres- Haldibari, where you can Namdapha is famed.
sive Noa-Dihing River, and spot the hornbill if you’re Sometimes water is

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

camping along picturesque lucky. The Forest unavailable at Haldibari, so

river beaches. The further Department has a camping you’d have to do the entire
in you go, the better are spot here. stretch till Hornbill Camp
your chances of interesting from Deban on a single day.
sightings. Haldibari to Hornbill Camp
(6–7 km from Haldibari, 12 Hornbill Camp to Bulbulia
The route: km from Deban): As the (2.5km): Bulbulia gets its
Deban to Haldibari (5–6 name suggests, this is a name from the natural hot
km): Cross the river by ferry, point for spotting the water sulphurous springs
and walk till you reach hornbill, for which (bulbule) here. Thanks to

namdapha national park

the presence of a salt-lick,
Namdapha is a birder’s paradise there’s a possibility of
seeing the gaur, wild boar,
trekking

sambar, barking deer and

even the elephant here.
There are remains of an
older watchtower-like Sambar (top); gaur
structure here, which can
make for a good viewpoint. deeper experience, you can
From here, you can see the move onwards to the
treetop canopy from a Ranijheel campsite.
vantage point and birds
such as the long-tailed sibia Bulbulia to Ranijheel
and greater racket-tailed (5km): There’s a campsite
drongos. where you can pitch tents at
To limit the trekking time Ranjiheel. Birds recorded in
to three days, make a this stretch include the great
U-turn towards Deban after rufous-headed parrotbill
Bulbulia; for a longer and and red-billed scimitar

22 23
 guneet narula
babbler, wreathed hornbill, snow-covered peaks such as
hawk eagle and white- Dapha Bum, visible at a

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

winged duck. distance, and the other from

the Myanmar end. There’s
Ranijheel to Firm Base also an interesting detour
(5km): Geographically, it’s a possibility. From Firm Base,
confluence of the two move to Embeong and
tributaries, one coming from cross over the river to
complete a circular circuit
Malayan giant squirrel back to Deban and visit
some tribal villages on the
way, without returning

namdapha national park

through the same route. By
this point, with some luck
and a good guide, you
trekking

could spot mammals such

as the hoolock gibbon, Elephants prepare for a safari
Asian elephant, Asian one-
horned rhinoceros, swamp game country actually Elephant safaris
deer and wild water buffalo. begins. Estimate a 7-day Elephant safaris are possible
trip for Deban to 52nd Mile on the route till Hornbill
Firm Base to 52nd Mile: A and back. It may take longer Camp. They can be used as
six-hour hike from Firm if you’re waiting to spot porters till Firm Base,
Base, 52nd Mile is the last wildlife, of course; and though. Bridges across the
point where trekking is shorter, should you choose rivers in the park have
permitted without to turn back to Deban from recently been damaged due
additional special Ranijheel, Bulbulia or to flood and elephants are a
permission. The grasslands Hornbill Camp. For a safe way to cross the rivers.
of Firm Base, 52nd Mile and short trip of 2–3 days, Depending on the rains, the
onwards are basically where turn back to Deban after icy river can swell unpredict-
tiger and other big cats’ Hornbill Camp. ably and reach chest-deep

24 25
 Narendra Bisht
levels in many crossings on alternate route
the route. These elephants

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adventure holidays

have been trained to create Namdapha to Vijoynagar

makeshift bridges during on the old Miao-
river crossings by carrying Vijoynagar Road
and dropping large tree This route is strictly for the
trunks. Spending around a adventurous; not many make
week in the forest with an it all the way through dense
elephant can also be an rainforests, bamboo thickets,
interesting experience. riverside boulders, skirting
landslides and fording rivers;
The route: braving leeches for at least

namdapha national park

six days, wading through all
1) Deban (17th Mile) to sorts of knee or even waist-
25th Mile deep waterbodies just to
trekking

2) 25th Mile to 52nd Mile visit a village on the interna- Huts at Namdapha
3) 52nd Mile to 65th Mile tional border. There was
(there’s also a village at once actually a motorable of the last great adventures Lisu tribal villages on this
77th Mile) road to Vijoynagar, India’s around, combining forests route, where rations, fruits
4) 65th Mile to 80th Mile last village at the Myanmar as well as tribal villages in a and even treats like Chinese
5) 80th Mile to border, surrounded by the universe that’s cut off from apple wine, rice wine and
Gandhigram (86th Mile)— forests of Myanmar on three the outside world. cooked local meals can be
there many villages after sides, and Namdapha bought, at villages on 52nd
Gandhigram National Park on the fourth Tribal villages Mile, 77th Mile, 82nd Mile
6) Gandhigram to Hazilu side. The old MV road got Points on the route are and the many villages after
Basti : (11–12km) dysfunctional and was never mostly defined in miles; Gandhigram. From
7) Hazilu Basti to repaired after the 1990s. these refer to milestones on Gandhigram onwards, there
Vijoynagar, you fly back India’s wild east is a the 95-mile Miao-Vijoynagar are many Lisu tribal villages.
by chopper that connects secluded patch with no road Road (Miao is the zero Japanese warplanes crashed
to Miao access, stretching up to the point), which is now com- in this forest during World
Burmese border. This is one pletely damaged. There are War II and in true zero-

26 27
 Alamy images / India Picture

waste tribal style, locals are Lisus, but was renamed by

said to have collected and the Indian army.

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

recycled scraps from the

wreckages into daily use Returning to civilisation
and household objects, Choppers run twice a week
which can still sometimes between Naharlagun
be found in a few homes in (Itanagar)-Miao-Vijoynagar
villages on this route. and back. Don’t schedule
Gandhigram, with around any important events or
400 homes, is pretty large book expensive return flight
for a village with zero road tickets assuming you will
connectivity. Vijoynagar is catch these back from

namdapha national park

known as Daudi by the Vijoynagar on the day of
your choice, because like
Porters enroute to Hawa camp many chopper services in Locals at Namdapha Eco Cultural Festival, Miao
trekking

Arunachal, these flights can

get cancelled because of you’ll eventually get a chop- choose a date to book a
poor weather, or run full per out. return ticket back home.
because of medical emer- Plan to reach Vijoynagar
gencies, which get priority in time for the chopper, and The Lisu tribe
over regular folks. The army choose day one of the trek Parts of Namdapha, espe-
also runs intermittent servic- from Namdapha according- cially the areas stretching
es out of Vijoynagar, and if ly. To add a touch more pre- towards the Myanmar bor-
you’re in luck, you can get dictability to your return der, are generally consid-
one of these as well. In schedule, you could choose ered the home of the
short, in keeping with the to do the hike in reverse Burmese-origin Lisu tribe,
adventurous nature of this direction (Vijoynagar to also sometimes known as
whole trip, maintain an Deban), flying in to the Yobin, who migrated
open return plan, if you Vijoynagar either from and settled here from China
don’t plan on walking the Naharlagun or Miao. This via Myanmar, before India
same route back to Miao; way, you can confidently became a republic.
Narendra Bisht

28 29
 On the long trek to head-loads of stuff,
Vijoynagar, you will end up accompanied by even little

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

meeting Lisus in their forest four-year-old kids. They trek

villages, especially while for several days to Miao
stopping to purchase food every time they need to
supplies or find village access the cash economy, or
homestays. Even closer to shop for basic rations,
Deban, along the old Miao- sleeping in makeshift
Vijoynagar Road, you could shelters that they create in
encounter entire families of no time, using bamboo and
Lisus making this long leaves in the forest en route.
journey everyday, carrying Probably the most

namdapha national park

skilled hunters in these
Spiders parts, they are known for
their jungle survival skills. A photographer captures rare flora in Namdapha
trekking

With the road connecting

them to the mainland gone natural objects anywhere in Costs within Namdapha
and never rebuilt since, the the forest. Birding hike Cost:
Lisus live in mostly self- The Lisus are friendly Approximately `4,000 per
sufficient tribal villages and hospitable to outsiders head
inside the forest with no who manage to come this Taxis from Miao to Deban
road access, weave their far, especially when (Namdapha): `2,500–3,000
own textiles, build their own accompanied by a good Regular rooms: `270/night
houses using local materials guide or porter with local (Indians) `470/night (for-
and are experts at forest village contacts. In Miao eigners)
foraging and cane, bamboo town, the main tribes are Traditional huts: `470
and wood craft. They can the (mostly Buddhist) (Indians) and `870 (foreign-
make tools, baskets, traps, Singphos and the Tangsas, ers). Dorms: `120 per bed
shelters and all sorts of stuff who are more like a set Camping charges: `1,000
using nothing other than a of tribes, rather than a per night
machete and locally found single group. Camera entry fee: `1,000
Photographs: Narendra Bisht

30 31
 guneet narula
per day for long lens camer- basic but charming tradi-
as, `500 for smaller cameras tional bamboo huts are the

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

Entry fee: `100 per day for ones to go for.

Indians, `200 for foreigners Phupla Singpho has also
Elephant hire charges: been operating tours in
`1,000 per day per elephant this area for years, and
+ `500 per mahout runs Namdapha Tours and ■
Treks and a more
Accommodation and tour comfortable quaint
operators riverside resort at Miao
Among the Forest called Namdapha Jungle
Department’s accommoda- Camp (Cell: 09436228763)

namdapha national park

tion options at Deban, the near the Noa-Dihing River.
Abor Country, HELP
A dormitory in Deban Tourism and Jungle Travels
trekking

( W [Link])
regularly run treks to
Firm Base. Traditional cottage in Deban
The Dapha Valley lodge
at Miao is also worth a Tip The reserve doesn’t cost. Tour operators will
dekko for spending the first take tourists from April to probably be more
and/or last night at Miao, October (the wet season). convenient, though. If
before or after the trek to While organising a hike trekking independently,
either Vijoynagar or Firm with the Forest Department contact Japang Pansa (Cell:
Base direction. will be cheaper (`5,000- 09402045864) for assistance
With clean double rooms 7,000 per head for a four- with planning treks, birding
starting at `800, hot water, day-programme for 6-8 or wildlife hikes and scoring
good local food, friendly pax), you’ll probably have to equipment locally. He’s a
caretakers and comfortable do the math, and add up tribal working for the Forest
mattresses, it’s quite a the components to Department and hence has
bargain! determine the actual total ample contacts. ■
guneet narula

32 33
 Photographs by sanjiv valsan
Noctes and Wanchos (the
tribe in present-day

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adventure holidays

Longding district) used to

practice ‘Headhunting’, a
practice where the victor of
a war would bring home
skulls of their enemies to
proudly display as a sign of
bravery, and be recognised
for his valour with a prestig-
ious body tattoo and a
huge welcome party with
feasts, song and dance.

The Salt Well trail

trekking

Although headhunting has

tirap
not been practiced in sever-

Trekking in Tirap Tirap is a cloud gazer’s paradise al decades, other aspects of

tribal culture such as folk
identities, but have now songs, dances, costume,
■ Sanjiv Valsan Elephant Reserve as been grouped in official wood craft, traditional heal-
neighbours and cultural records as the ‘Noctes’. In ing and their connection

J
ust by looking at the influences. Nearly all of Tirap, nearly every Nocte with animal spirits still
map, you can guess Tirap is part of a major village has its own king and abound in the misty moun-
that Tirap is one of the elephant corridor that’s rich its own language. tains of Tirap. The Salt Well
most interesting parts of in wildlife. From Joypur in trail, which begins at the
India, with Myanmar, Assam till the Singphan Headhunting legacy ancient kingdom of
Assam’s Joypur Rainforest, Elephant Reserve in In the days gone by, like the Borduria, is a great way to
Arunachal’s own Changlang Nagaland, the region is tribes of Nagaland and get acquainted with both
and Longding districts and home to a group of tribes Sagaing region across the the tribes and the landscape
Nagaland’s Singhpan that originally held separate border in Myanmar, the of Tirap.

34 35
 Borduria millets or tapioca, or a mix
Borduria has a rich history; it of one or more ingredients.

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

was the most important At Borduria, river camping is

centre of the ancient Nocte possible at the Lowangcha
kingdom, and is still an Tea Estate, a great spot for
important hub of Nocte cul- sunsets, stargazing and
ture, craft and textile weav- unwinding to the sounds of
ing. The local cuisine and the river.
wine is worth checking out.
Nocte jumin is said to be Borduria to Paniduria
one of the best grain wines village (5hrs)
out there. Jumin can be The day begins with cross-
made with either rice, corn, ing small streams and a
hanging bridge over a river
Traditional Nocte house with crystal clear water, and
trekking

a gentle climb to a vantage

tirap
point with good views of Tirap landscape with rain clouds
Borduria village. At
Paniduria, the ideal camp- exceptionally delicious, Eastern Himalayas were
ing spot is an organic putting anything from the connected by road to the
orange orchard, where you plains to shame. sea coasts of mainland
can pluck and munch as India, common salt was one
many oranges as you want Paniduria to of the most valuable com-
(with the permission of the Khowathong (3hrs) modities in the region; not
owner, of course). Generally The Soijan River is in its true just for making food taste
unknown to the outside character on this stretch, better, but also for gaining
world, Arunachal Pradesh’s since it has been associated the loyalty of the Bos fronta-
oranges (in winter), like with Nocte history for cen- lis, a semi-wild/semi-domes-
most fruits grown here, are turies. Its salt wells made ticated bovine related to
nearly absolutely organic, this area prosperous in the the Indian gaur and popu-
reasonably priced and times gone by. Before the larly known as the mithun,

36 37
 which the tribals of central part in the diet and
Arunachal and Nagaland culture of many tribes in the

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

tamed using their biggest Northeast. This gentle

weakness, salt. Once they bovine has always given all
are addicted to an easy sup- the tribes here the protein
ply of salt, mithuns can be security of domesticated
set free to graze in the for- meat without the environ-
est and live like any other mental damage and
wild animal, but they will costs associated with mod-
return to their ‘master’ ern ranch-based animal
whenever needed, as long husbandry.
as they are found and given Swimming in sections of
salt. Mithun sacrifice and this ‘salty river’ is said to be
meat have always been a of great therapeutic value
and cure all sorts of
trekking

illnesses; locals from nearby

tirap
A traditional hearth
villages still make it a point Sunsets in western Arunachal are mesmerising
to trek all the way here at
least once or twice a year, gun-making, an unusual skill Khonsa and beyond
just to bathe. that the Wancho tribe (of From Chasa, there are many
the neighbouring Longding other cultural excursions
Khowathong to district) is more known for. that are accessible by road,
Chasa (3hrs) From Khowathong, including Khonsa, a mostly
The route from Paniduria there’s a jeep track leading animist village near Khonsa
moves downhill into a val- to Chasa village, the original town, the district headquar-
ley, a river crossing and later village from which some ters of Tirap; Luthong,
takes a steep climb to people left and established where you can meet the last
Khowathong village. Khowathong. The Noctes tattooed headhunters of
Khowathong is a centre for and Wanchos trace their Tirap; Lapnan, the village
traditional crafts, especially origins to present-day where headhunting skull tro-
expressive woodcarving and Myanmar and China. phies are still displayed in

38 39
 the traditional style in com- Indo-Myanmar border locat-
munity centres called ed near Lazu.
adventure holidays

‘pangs’; or drive further

ahead to Sanliem, a hamlet Getting there
of the Olo tribe (now offi- Borduria in Tirap is conven-
cially considered a ‘sub- iently located 104km/4hrs
tribe’ of the Noctes), where from Dibrugarh airport/rail-
even middle-aged women way station. Return through
still bear traditional facial Khonsa town (120km/
tattoos. From each of these 4–5hrs).
villages, trails lead further
into the wild, and into even Trekking operators
more villages, right upto the It is advisable to go through
a local operator in an undis-
A Nocte longhouse covered area like Tirap,
trekking

where there isn’t conven-

tirap
tional tourism infrastructure.
A local guide can be a
good way to find a home-
stay and trekking routes
through villages. Foreign
nationals might not be

Angling
allowed to travel through
some parts of Tirap due to
security reasons. Village
Holiday Tours & Travels and
Camp Namdapha Holidays
Arunachal pradesh
Making a good catch while you stand on the banks of gushing rivers surrounded
(see Tour Operators at the by high mountains! Head to Arunachal for that perfect picture.
back of the book) specialise Department of Tourism
in trekking and culinary Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India
tours here. ■ Phone: +91-360-2214745 | E-mail: tourismdirectorap@[Link]
follow us on Arunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm
40
 Photographs by sanjiv valsan
this is one of the best expe-
riences in this part of the

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

world. The trek begins at a

tropical jungle and moves
up to a high peak at Chebra
(1,100 m), which needs to
be traversed to reach a for-
est filled with exotic vegeta-
tion in every colour imagi-
nable. There are wild high-
altitude orchids and an
archipelago of dozens of
lakes of all shapes and sizes,
seven of which are feasible

dibang valley
to cover within two
trekking

days. Overall, this is a

hard trek, requiring fitness
and resolve.
Five Treks in Dibang Valley A highland village at Dibang
The Idu Mishmis know
tigers and wildlife can be this area as a place where
■ Sanjiv Valsan Tibet and Northeast India. found here than anywhere rare medicinal plants grow,
The local Idu Mishmi tribe else in the state. like the legendary Mishmi

W
ith its lush green has been attracting global titha and other rare plants
forests, craggy recognition lately for its [Link] Seven Lakes that can treat fevers, aches,
snow-clad peaks ancient traditional religious Trek (5 days) burns, wounds, livestock
and ancient shamanic systems that the people Grade: Tough diseases and neutralise
traditions, Dibang Valley is practice to this day. Their An extremely colourful, poison. The monals, blood
Arunachal Pradesh’s wildest culture intelligently includes high-altitude wildflower trek pheasant and the endemic
and most unexplored wildlife conservation as a through lovely forests and Mishmi takin can be spotted
district. It is a huge part of daily life, because of exceptional landscapes near at close range. The lake
mountainous zone between which a greater density of the Indo-Tibetan border, area also boasts of

42 43
 interesting wild mushrooms; Emuli village by road from
and for a refreshing change, Anini town, and on to

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

most of them are edible Emungu on foot.

here. High Altitude Sickness Day 2 Emungu to Chebra
is a real risk on this trek; a (8–9km/5-6hrs): From
day or two of acclima- Chebra, the highest point
tisation is essential. Anini is of the trek, descend to
the most convenient place Kamu Lake.
for this. Day 3&4 Chebra to Kamu
Lake: Two days at Kamu
Route Lake to acclimatise to the
Day 1 Emuli village to altitude, roam around and
Emungu (6km/3hrs): Reach explore all seven lakes.
Most hikers spend two

dibang valley
The Dibang hill-scape nights here, but there’s
trekking

plenty to explore for those

who choose to stay longer A trekking route through the valley
and carry enough ration.
Day 5 Kamu lake to Inguyi August-November: Less Valley standards) and scenic,
Camp (9km/7hrs): Trek to rain, better visibility, but not with continuous patches of
Inguyi, 2km after which the enough floral diversity bamboo forest, good views
motorable road to Anini Winter months: Snowfall of open landscapes and
begins at Mipi-2 village. and extreme cold makes gently undulating paths,
Return to Anini by road everything tougher crossing the Dibang River at
(30–35km/1hr). two or three points on
2. Emuli to Biyali authentic Idu Mishmi hand-
June and July: For exotic (3 days, 2 nights) made bamboo hanging
high-altitude wildflowers, via Enguli bridges, a rare marvel. At
but quite rainy, less visibility Grade: Easy Biyali, a lively Idu Mishmi
of distant landscape This circular trek is both tribal hamlet, you can
because of rain and mist relatively easy (by Dibang choose to spend the night

44 45
 Photographs: Adiju Rondo
in a local home or your own lock their old homes while
tent. Enguli, the second they’re in Anini, thanks to

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

stop on the hike, is an unu- the zero crime rate in these

sual village with homes but parts. With the permission
no inhabitants, even though of the owner (managed by
there’s a population there the trek operator), you can
on the official census. Most actually stay in one of these
of its inhabitants have deserted bamboo houses,
moved to Anini for govern- use their hearth and fire-
ment jobs because Enguli place and be the only
has no roads, and they inhabitants of the entire
return only occasionally; village for a day.
they don’t even bother to
Route:

dibang valley
Hiking in Dibang Day 1 Emuli to Biyali (8–9
trekking

km, 3–4 hrs).

Day 2 Biyali to Enguli: The diversity of flora on the Seven Lakes trek
( 6–8 km, 3 hrs)
Day 3 Enguli to Biyali (6–8 er-yet-scenic options, with a traditionally consider the
km, 3 hrs) landscape that differs from tiger as their brother, and
Season: year-round, but the others on this list; it since they never harm big
winters will be less wet involves more cross-country cats, the felines here return
walking along a riverside the favour and co-exist
3. Dri Valley Trek route with waterfalls and peacefully with humans. You
(4 days, 3 nights) views of snow-clad moun- can participate in traditional
Grade: Easy–Medium tains, birds, tiger and fishing on the Dri River.
There are plenty of trek Mishmi takin pugmarks from
routes in Dri valley, near time to time. Even if you Route:
Acheso village, difficulty lev- don’t see the tigers, they Day 1 Acheso to
els ranging from easy to will probably see and smell ‘Chaipani Camp’ (3–4 hrs,
hard. This is one of the easi- you. The Idu Mishmi tribe cross-country)
Adiju Rondo

46 47
 Day 2 Chaipani to Chigu 4. The Alombro Trek (2
Camp: (3–4 hours, cross- days, 1 night)

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

country) Grade: Medium

Day 3 Chigu Camp to Another circular trek begin-
Pathar Camp (3–4 hours, ning and ending at the
cross-country) Emuli hamlet, an Idu Mishmi
Day 4 Pathar Camp to tribal village, this one cross-
Chaipani Camp to Anini, es no less than four hanging
skipping Chigu Camp (7 bridges over several points
hrs). The motorable road on the river. Stay in either a
begins a bit after Chaipani traditional Idu Mishmi bam-
Camp, from where you can boo longhouse (changhar)
go by road to Anini. in these villages and social-
ise by the fire, sipping on

dibang valley
A camp with a view locally made corn or millet
trekking

wine with a tribal family or

carry a tent and camp out- Picturesque vistas of Anini
doors.
at Malini village (homestays Route:
Route: available in villages en Day 1 Malini to Marki
Day 1 Emuli to Alombro vil- route), and transitions from campsite (4–6 hours)
lage (3 hrs). bamboo groves to lush Day 2 Makhri to Balwa (3–4
Day 2 Alombro to Emuli: green alpine meadows hrs)
Through a different route between Makhri and Balwa. Day 3 Balwa to Dara (5–7
Flowering season is hrs)
5. Malini to Dara between March and August, Day 4 Dara to Malini (6–7
(4 days, 3 nights) depending on the species. hrs)
Grade: Easy Rains will be more intense
The trail begins with a mix towards the August end of Getting there
of forests, cross-country the flower season, but plant Anini (headquarters of the
walks, ascents and descents diversity will be richer. Dibang Valley district) is
Adiju Rondo

48 49
 380km/10hrs drive from the Roing and Pasighat on
Assamese towns of Tuesdays currently, and

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

Dibrugarh (closest airport/ these can be convenient

railway station) and from options when rough weath-
Tinsukia (335km/9hrs by er doesn’t result in their
road). These mountain cancellation.
roads are rough in
patches, and landslides, rain Costs
and snowfall can considera- As with most treks, these
bly increase time spent on will vary with stay options,
the road. schedules and food chosen,
Weekly choppers fly from and importantly, how much
Naharlagun (Itanagar), weight your porters would
have to carry. Costs in these

dibang valley
View of Anini town remote areas are higher
trekking

than in the mainland

because of various factors, Inside a traditional Idu Mishmi home
but all things considered,
most operators charge rea- around `20,000 per head hiking, homestays in tradi-
sonably. Here are some ball- for a smaller group, includ- tional villages and tents are
park figures: The Seven ing meals and car hires to the way.
Lakes trek would cost and from Dibrugarh airport Trek Operators in Dibang
`3,50,000–400,000 mini- by SUV. Valley:
mum for a group of 10, l Dibang Adventure (Adiju
including car hires and Where to stay Rondo)
drops, riverside camping Homestays, arranged l The Mishmi Hills (Tine
after the trek and a village through your trekking oper- Mena)
tour and meals, and car ator, are generally the best l Mishmi Hills Camp / Eco
hires to and from Dibrugarh option; though Anini town Camp (Jibi Pulu)
airport and within Anini. also has a Circuit House and l Mishmi Hills Resort &
Emuli to Biyali would cost Forest Rest House. While Hotels (Rezina Mihu) ■

50 51
 Pasang Sonam Tso

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

Trek in Mechuka
■ Sanjiv Valsan Leave Mechuka as early in
the morning as possible,

T
he trek to Pasang preferably even before
Sonam Tso (Tso means dawn to get enough time
‘lake’), near Arunachal for the toughest part of the
Pradesh’s Mechuka, is a trek; leaving early lets you
spectacular one to say the enjoy the walk without hav-
least. The Indian army, Indo- ing to struggle with reach-

pasang sonam tso

Tibetan Border Police (ITBP) ing before sunset, which
and other security and road happens very early around
trekking

maintenance personnel these parts in winter.

routinely patrol this sensitive Account time for gathering
border. Over the last few and preparing firewood for
years though, hikers have the campsite and starting
also begun to discover this a fire at the end of the day.
hidden high-altitude lake. It helps to have at least
This is probably one of the two people as guides/por-
most beautiful treks in the ters even if you’re travelling
Eastern Himalayas. Hiking solo here.
here requires special Day 1 Track Junction to
permission. Shastri Camp (5hrs): In the
first hour itself, the route
The route crosses near-vertical
Day 1 Mechuka to Track patches, with only a metal
junction/ITBP check-post at wire to hold on to, and bits
Yorlung (2 hrs by road): of thin bamboo ladders

52 53
 Photographs by sanjiv valsan
horizontally placed like all be a little tiring, but the
small bridges between cliffs, forest is really unique, and

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

with dizzying views of the totally worth the effort.

depths and brooks below. Particularly delightful are
This path is full of steep the stretches of wild
climbs and slippery blueberry bushes, which are
descents, and involves quite a sight in their autumn
skipping over streams, then colours during fruiting
a descent to the rocky season (November), when
banks of the tireless Yorlung you can keep plucking and
Fooj river, where you’ll need munching on these tangy-
to jump from boulder to sweet delights through at
boulder for a bit. This can least half the hike.

pasang sonam tso

Some very basic shelter The mesmerising Yorlung Fooj river
Autumn colours in the form of wooden huts
trekking

is available at Ummeed making it less rushed. Day 2 Shastri Camp to

Camp (4hrs walk from Track These huts are meant Pasang Sonam Tso (2hrs):
Junction), Shastri Camp more to be makeshift The morning begins with
(5hrs) and Pasang Sonam shelters for army men to another long stretch of
Tso (7hrs). While the lake is light a campfire, keep warm, riverside boulder-hopping,
obviously the main cook and spend the night. and through more blueberry
attraction of the trip and Check with your guide bushes with a slight ascent,
most scenic camping spot, about which of these huts is before reaching an open
Shastri Camp, though not as in the most habitable shape stretch of beautiful
open, is also a lovely at the time of your trip landscape by the Tibetan
location. The hut here is before deciding where to border, a mix of green
sometimes in a better camp, or whether to carry mountains, dense pine
shape, which matters when your tent. It can get very forests and snowy peaks
it’s raining or snowing, and cold here, and snowfall can high above the tree line, the
reduces the walk on day begin as early as late most dramatic of which is
one by about two hours, November. the Chuning La peak, with

54 55
 its mirror image calmly Day 3 Pasang Sonam Tso to
reflecting on the Pasang Track Junction (7hrs): The

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

Sonam lake when it’s still return to the base camp

early in the morning. The through the same route is a
lake eventually mosaics into bit more downhill than the
a shimmer once the winds walk up, and if you made it
pick up later in the morning this far up, then the return
and animate everything in hike should be manageable
sight. If the hut/tent can in one long stretch. There’s
handle the howling winds no public transport between
and possibilities of frost and Track Junction and Mechuka
snow, this is obviously the town, so make sure you
place to camp, with views of have either parked a car

pasang sonam tso

a lovely little slice of there or arranged for one to
southern Tibet. pick you up. In case the car
trekking

doesn’t arrive (it can

Prayer flags, Pasang Sonam Tso happen), an emergency Wild blueberries (left) and colours of the forest
option is hitching a cold
and windy ride on the back and other variables. It’s Fall-Winter: (October–
of a truck with the cheerful technically possible to do December): The driest
construction workers from the entire trek in one night season. Colder tempe-
the GREF/ITBP camp. and two days, but is best to ratures, subzero at night.
The entire route between spend at least two nights Shorter days, longer nights,
Track Junction and Pasang and three days to make it so schedule walks accor-
Sonam Tso is 23km/7hrs relaxed and enjoyable. dingly. Snowfall is possible.
walk approximately. This Frost begins mid-
trek is medium to tough Seasons November.
grade, not without risk; Summer (July–September): Peak winter (January–
hence, it helps to be Warmer weather, longer Feb): Even shorter days.
physically fit. Trail conditions days for more leisurely More technical. Prepare for
depend on rain, snowfall walks. Prepare for leeches! tricky patches through snow.

56 57
 Getting there Station, reach Aalo (Along)
The closest town is by road (253km, 6.5hrs) and

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

Mechuka (also sometimes then from Aalo to Mechuka

spelt Menchukha or (180km). Car needed to
Mechukha), a picturesque reach Track Junction, the
place built around a military starting point of the trek.
air landing ground, where By Flight, Chopper:
you can happily spend the Guwahati or Mohanbari
first night at a local home- (Dibrugarh) airport to
stay. Naharlagun (Itanagar).
Flight/train Overnight at Itanagar.
Via Dibrugarh airport/rail- Connecting chopper from
way station, road: From Naharlagun the following

pasang sonam tso

Dibrugarh Airport or Railway morning (3hrs, Mondays
and Saturdays only) to
trekking

Memba women at Yorlung Mechuka.

Trekking permissions Camping in the forests around Mechuka

Special permission is
required to trek to Pasang local trek operator is the November. In addition to
Sonam Tso, which is mostly best bet in managing these. adventure sports such as
given only to Indians from Menchukha Tours & shooting, rappelling, river
the Indo-Tibetan Border Travels organises treks crossing, paragliding,
Police through the around Mechuka. mountain biking and aero-
Additional Deputy modelling, there are
Commissioner, Mechuka. things to see and do cultural events and food
For information on permis- stalls. The Government
sions, contact the office of Adventure@Mechukha, the Craft Centre is good for
the Additional Deputy annual adventure festival, is purchasing handicrafts
Commissioner, a three-day-long extrava- such as the Tibetan-style
Mechuka (09436043852). A ganza organised in Thaan carpets. ■

58 59
 Photographs by sanjiv valsan
sightseeing at the charming
fort at Thembang, this six-

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

to-seven-day trek can begin

directly at Chander.
Way before the British
‘discovered’ this route, the
Tibetan and Indo-Tibetan
tribes in the region have
been using Sela ridge as a
yak trail, taking in their
caravans of yak wool, hides,
precious stones and yak
butter to barter in the
markets in Assam.

bailey trail
The trail didn’t escape
trekking

the attention of the

Chinese either during the

Bailey Trail, Thembang Trekking in the clouds 1962 Indo-China war, when
their soldiers took the
travelled southwards via Bailey Trail from Tulung La,
■ Sanjiv Valsan Thembang, a fortified Mago, Lap, Pota, Poshing la Mago, Poshing La to
village in Western Arunachal along this route to Thembang, causing

T
he Bailey Trail traces Pradesh. Their data Thembang, the trail named considerable damage to the
the historic expedition eventually resulted in the after their exploits takes the Indian forces.
of two British officers, creation of the McMahon route in reverse, beginning At Poshing la today,
Lt Col FM Bailey and Capt Line, which became, and at Thembang, the Brokpa there are few traces of war
HT Morshead, who still remains, the Interna- yak herding village of left. Instead, what we find is
surveyed this route during tional boundary with Tibet/ Chander, and ending near serenity and superb views of
colonial times for the China, a demarcation that Jang town. A road now the Gorichen massif, and
purpose of map-making. China does not recognise. connects Thembang with the peaks of Gorichen
They travelled from Tibet to While Bailey and Morshead Chander, so after some (6,538m), Kangto (7,090m),

60 61
 Nyegyi Kangsang (7,047m) rhododendrons in bloom
and Takpa Shiri (6,655m). At (around spring) and
adventure holidays

4,550m, the snow-covered temperate forests on the

Tse La Pass is the highest descent into Mago.
point of the trek, which Winter is the relatively
crosses mountain passes, dry season, but expect
glacial rivers and lakes and snow in some parts.
Monpa tribal villages. The During certain times of
landscapes are exceptionally the year, for instance,
diverse, with snow-covered autumn, if you’re lucky,
pine and juniper forests, cloud conditions align and
entire patches of the sun is relatively low on
the horizon behind, you
A man prepares to churn butter could get to see a rare
beauty of nature called the
trekking

Brocken Spectre, a full circle

rainbow around your
shadow, following you
across the ridge. This is one
of the most spell-binding
sights here.

The Route:
Thembang–Chander
Lagaam–Thungri–Changla–
Poshing La–Pangi
La–Nyang–Potok–Tse
River Rafting
Arunachal pradesh
La–Laap–Lurthim– Mago– Ditch the mainland, head to where the wild rapids are! The Siang
is your playground and high-level rapids your toys!
Thimbu (Hydel). Closest
roadheads: Thembang, Department of Tourism
Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India
Bomdila, Dirang, Jang ■ Phone: +91-360-2214745 | E-mail: tourismdirectorap@[Link]
follow us on Arunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm
62
 Photographs courtesy Spokehub Cycling
Day 2 Kalaktang to Rupa
(75km) is again quite scenic,

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

passing through quaint vil-

lages, including the Tibetan
settlements at Tenzing
gaon, where one can spend
the night and sample some
traditional Tibetan cuisine.
Chilipam Gompa, an impor-
tant Buddhist monastery, is
15km from Rupa, and worth
a detour if time is available.
Day 3 Rupa to Dirang
(60km) will be one of the
toughest bits, with steep
cycling

cycling
inclines through the
Bomdila Pass. From here

Cycling in Arunachal En route to Tawang on, most of the villages will

be of the Monpa tribe. After
Day 1 Bhairabkunda to Bomdila, it is an easy down-
■ Sanjiv Valsan covered Sela Pass, one of Kalaktang (60km) is chal- hill ride to Dirang along the
the highest motorable roads lenging, considering the river for 7km, to the lush
Guwahati to Tawang via in India. Covering a distance steep inclines and endless green and breathtaking
Bhairabkunda of approximately 320km, hairpin turns. views of Sangti Valley. It’s
(One week, including a day the landscapes on this route The old Kalaktang worth spending at least a
at Sangti valley) begin with tropical forests village, home of the Monpa day here. After Sangti,
This is one of the most sce- on the Assam-Arunachal and Sherdukpen tribes, is there’s also a hot spring,
nic but difficult cycling border and go on to zigzag like a live cultural museum. which is a few kilometres
routes in Northeast India, across high mountains People here practise ancient ahead of Dirang town, a
reaching an altitude of above the treeline before crafts and still live in tradi- treat to relax after a tiring
4,175 m at the snow- getting back to alpine. tional ways. ride. The Dirang to Senge

64 65
 (35km) stretch is a gradual The climb to Sela is tough,
climb along dusty and bro- especially because of the

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

ken roads. You can stay the high altitude (4,175m) and
night at Senge. lack of oxygen. The weather
The best part of the is also unpredictable, and it
route is undoubtedly the can rain or snow at any
hardest and most scenic time. At the top of the pass
climb, the one from Senge is the beautiful Sela Lake.
to Sela. Here, it is likely to After riding for about
be snowing. The longer 16km ahead of Sela Pass,
descent to Jang (66km) also you will reach Jaswanth
affords picturesque vistas. Garh, a memorial to
Subedar Jaswant Singh, an
Spectacular views Indian army soldier who
single-handedly tried to
cycling

cycling
hold the Chinese army at
this post for 72 hours during Camping at a clearing near Tawang
the 1962 Indo-China war.
Stay over at Jang, where Bhalukpong-Dirang-Sangti Valley and Pakke-Kesang
there’s the beautiful Valley-Sela Pass-Tawang- Tiger Reserve.
Nuranang waterfall where Zemithang
you can spot rainbows Day 1 The ride from
sometimes. Naharlagun-Seppa- Naharlagun to Sagalee
The final day from Jang Tawang (75km) is easy (considering
to Tawang (30km) will be far (One week) the distance and elevation)
more relaxed: an initial The Naharlagun-Tawang with dense tropical forests
descent of about 10km, circuit through Seppa is one and very few houses. There
followed by a gradual climb of the prettiest but least- is a government guest
up to Tawang, home to the explored cycling routes in house at Sagalee.
majestic Tawang monastery. Arunachal Pradesh, passing Day 2 Seppa to Nag
Other route possibilities: through the lovely Pappu Mandir (131km) will be

66 67
 tough. However, riding Day 3 Seppa to Nag
through the beautiful Pappu Mandir/Dharja (110km) is

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

Valley and along the vicinity also going to be

of Pakke-Kessang Reserve challenging, with some off-
makes the strenuous ride road routes. To shorten the
worthwhile. Seppa is the distance by about 50km,
only town until you reach one has to take these off-
Bomdila. There are several road routes, covered by
small restaurants in Seppa. dense jungle roads under
Bomdila has plenty of stay construction, just a few
and food options. kilometres after Seppa.
Apart from a few
Cycling to Kibithu construction workers and a
couple of small tribal
hamlets, there’s no trace of
cycling

cycling
civilisation here. At Nag
Mandir, one can stay at a The path to Kibithu Pass
small resort or camp out by
the side of the Tenga River. all the way to Dirang, where and Salangam to Hayuliang
Day 4 Nag Mandir to one can enjoy the amazing 45km), are mostly on pleas-
Dirang through Tenga Valley beauty of the Sangti Valley. ant tarmac roads that run
(77km) is an incredibly through tropical forests. The
scenic route with the Tezu-Kibithu dhabas en route are the
soothing sounds of (Five days) only places where you will
freshwater streams along Days 1,2, 3 Like almost all see people, and these are
the road. The forest here routes in Arunachal, this ideal places to camp at. Day
changes from tropical to route, leading to the east- two ends at Hayuliang, a
alpine. Soon after Tenga ernmost end of India, small town where you’ll find
Valley, the steep climbs of involves lots of climbs. The government guest houses.
Bomdila Pass begin, and first two days of the trip, Since the distance from
thereafter an easy descent Tezu to Salangam (55km) Hayuliang to Walong is too

68 69
 adventure holidays
adventure holidays
cycling

cycling
long to finish on a single called Chizwinti, in case you A camp on the way to Kibithu
day, it’s better to take a don’t want to ride the 12km
detour on day three from uphill route to Hawai. stay at a government guest where there’s a war
Hayuliang to the hill town of Day 4 On day four, the house. memorial dedicated to the
Hawai (65km), the head- route from Hawai to Walong Day 5 Walong to Kibithu Indian soldiers. While
quarters of Anjaw district. (55km) is lovely, with ups and back (30+30km) is the returning, another option is
Perched on a hilltop in the and downs, and the best part of this route, to take a detour towards
clouds, Hawai has two gov- vegetation dissolves from involving a gradual climb up Dong Valley from Walong,
ernment-run guest houses tropical to alpine, as you to Kibithu, with breath- where, after a four-hour
for overnight stays. There is ride along the twists and taking old pines and a lush trek, you can also catch ‘the
also another option to camp turns of the Lohit River. In green valley along the first sunrise in India’. Special
between Hayuliang and Walong, you can either route. Check out the permission is required to
Walong at a small hamlet camp by the riverside, or beautiful Namti Valley, enter Kibithu.

70 71
 Photographs: sanjiv valsan

adventure holidays
adventure holidays
cycling

cycling
Snapshots of the cycling trip from Roing to Anini

Roing to Anini, up the Mayudia Pass which at

Dibang Valley 2,655m. This is the highest
(Five days or more) motorable pass of the
Days 1, 2 Take off from Mishmi Hills. Mayudia has
Roing, where a relentless homestays, restaurants and
climb up the Mishmi Hills basic rest houses, mainly
begins, gaining a height of meant for the tourists who
around 1,600m in the first come here to see snow
40km. Camp around this between winter and spring.
area, or pedal ahead to A whole new impressive

72 73
 sanjiv valsan
world of high-altitude for- within 55–65-km of riding
ests begins from here all the from Hunli. Some riders opt

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

way to Anini. If you camp at for Karo, while others break

the 40-km point on day one the journey into longer bits.
instead of at Mayudia, day Etalin, which is 50km before
two will be a 50-km-ride, Anini, is another possible
ending at Hunli. From town halt.
Mayudia, it is generally Days 4, 5 Karo to Amboli
downhill till Hunli town. (65km) along the Deban
Day 3 The road conditions and Dree rivers, crosses
deteriorate, with many short some great landscapes and
but steep climbs. You can thickly forested hills, but this
pick a suitable campsite patch is prone to landslides.
The climb is arduous,
making this the hardest day
Other Interesting
cycling

cycling
of all perhaps. The last day’s
Cycling Circuits ride from Amboli to Anini
u Kibithu-Tezu-Roing- (30km) is a constant climb Detour to Basar
Anini uphill from around 1,200m
u Miao-Wakro-Parasuram to almost 1,700m, but on der. A more leisurely way to Tagin areas at Daporijo/
Kund-Roing-Anini- better roads. do it would be in a few Dumporijo, followed by the
Pasighat-Dambuk-Roing stretches at a time. Galos from thereon, up to
u Changlang-Khonsa- Ziro to Mechuka This is one long tribal Aalo and Kaying. After Tato,
Borduria-Deomali (permit- (Modular route) cultural route, covering a huge Adi tribal belt
ted for Indian nationals The basic route is Ziro- many tribes of Central begins, right up to
only) Raga-Daporijo-Dumporijo- Arunachal Pradesh, and only Mechuka, where the Adi
u Beginner-level Circuit: Maro-Tirbin-Aalo-Kaying- hardcore cyclists attempt to Ramo and Buddhist
Lohit Valley-Namsai- Payum-Billey-Tato-Mechuka, do it in one stretch. Membas have their villages.
Chokham, visiting all the with an option to extend it Beginning with the Apatani You might want to stop en
monasteries en route to the pine forests of tribe at Ziro, the route route for several days at
Yorlung near the Tibet bor- crosses Nyishi villages, multiple spots whenever

74 75
 curiosity strikes. Basically
this is not a cycling tour, but
Road to Basar to explore
the many interesting treks in Cycling
adventure holidays

a cultural journey using a

bicycle. Cycling within Ziro
the surrounding villages.
From Basar, you can also
Arunachal pradesh
Dreaming of unleashing your inner-child and going down the
Valley itself is a multi-day cycle back towards Likhabali road on a bicycle? Head to Arunachal Pradesh today!
cultural delight; riding from and on to Assam.
village to village along less Distances:
undulating roads with Ziro to Raga: 74km
beautiful views of paddy Raga to Dumporijo: 87km
can be a great way to warm Dapo to Tirbin: 82km
up for the ride ahead. Tirbin to Aalo: 63km
After Tirbin, consider a Aalo to Tato: 130km
detour on the Likabali-Aalo Tato to Mechuka: 52km
Mechuka to Yorlung: 41km
A cyclist arriving in Basar
cycling

cycling
Contacts and Resources
Spokehub Cycling,
Guwahati specialises in
bicycle rentals and touring,
and also sells bicycles. They
are a tightly-knit community
of passionate cyclists.
Contact: Ajanta 90380-
65012; Akash 7002296873
E-mail: buzz@[Link];
ajanta@[Link];
W [Link]/spokehub-
cycling/
North by North East
organises end-to-end Department of Tourism
Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India
cycling tours in Arunachal. ■ Phone: +91-360-2214745 | E-mail: tourismdirectorap@[Link]
sanjiv valsan
follow us on Arunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm
76
 birding
wildlife&
 Photographs by shutterstock
Do your homework
Getting a good local birding

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

guide is as important as
reaching Arunachal. On the
more unconventional end of
things, expert hunters can
often make the best birding
guides, and finding and
engaging them as birding
guides gives them incentive
to mend their ways and join
conservation efforts.
birding & wildlife

It’s not just in the forest

a birder’s guide
While birding in a
biodiversity hotspot like
Arunachal, be sure to never

A Birder’s Guide Yellow-bellied fantail miss out on birding

opportunities in cities and
the climbing required to villages en route to these
TO ARUNACHAL reach the highest slopes. spots, where you’ll
Thankfully, there are also invariably spend a night or
■ Siddhartha Sharma broad spectrum of habitats high-altitude spots in two. An early morning bird
from tropical rainforests at Arunachal, which are walk in a town like Miao

B
y any stretch of the lower elevations to connected by road, such as might throw up surprises.
imagination, subtropical and temperate Mechuka, Mayudia Pass and You could spot a streaked
Arunachal Pradesh is forests at mid-elevations Sela Pass, where you can spider hunter following a
the holy grail of birders in and rhododendron catch snow birds that mixed hunting group of
India. A massive altitudinal shrubbery to alpine pastures cannot be seen anywhere orange-bellied leaf birds,
range of 200–4,500m above closer to the north. else in the Northeast short-billed minivets and
sea level throws open a Provided you can manage without extreme climbs. nuthatches; sometimes even

80 81
 the iconic sultan tit follows pied varieties. The Indian
this kind of mixed hunting coral tree (Erythrina indica),

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

group here. when it flowers, is a treat for

birders in the Northeast.
Birding begins with trees Early mornings belong to
Due to the enormity of the greater racket-tailed
landscapes, spotting and drongo and the Asian fairy
marking the right trees is blue bird, followed by the
your precursor to success, arrival of blue-throated and
provided you know what great barbets.
bird you’re looking for. Tall Myrtaceae family trees
sal forests are home to the (Khokan as locals call it) with
hornbill. Arunachal boasts flowers and pods are also a
birding & wildlife

of housing all the hornbill favourite for flower peckers

a birder’s guide
species in India, except the and leaf birds. Another tree
Narcondam and Malabar- from the same family is the
Bottle brush, which is The striking sultan tit and (right) hornbills
Streaked spider hunter popular among Arunachal’s
sunbirds. Bottle brush and Fruiting ficus trees are the fruit. The barbets and
similar bud-bearing trees popular with the hornbill pigeons treat any visit to a
like the red nongmangkha and a variety of pigeons, fig tree as an end-of-season
(Phlogacanthus sp) are a such as the green imperial sale, and carry mouthloads
guaranteed stop for pigeon and the orange- of pickings back. The ashy
sunbirds and spider hunters fronted green pigeon. While bulbuls and black bulbuls
that take a sip before feeding on a ficus tree, it’s a also keep moving in mixed
moving on to the next bud; treat to watch Arunachal’s flocks and prefer trees with
if you linger for a while at iconic hornbills conserva- fewer leaves.
the same spot, you might tively pluck the ripe fig and
even be able to predict the toss it in the air to grab it Wetlands and stream sides
bud on which the bird will back to the centre of their With several major river
land for a sip. beak before actually gulping systems and some nine

82 83
 months of rainfall every throated prinia. The
year, landscapes in bamboo thickets that are Major Bird Species of Arunachal Pradesh

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adventure holidays

Arunachal typically always typically found along the Hodgson’s frogmouth,

feature waterbodies. Ghats, perimeters of tribal homes silver-eared mesia, sibias,
stream sides, river banks in Arunachal can be home long-tailed broadbill,
and even mountain roads to the white-throated bulbul pied falconet, red-headed
can offer brilliant and in their flock, one can and Ward’s trogon, Mrs
opportunities to observe spot the even rarer black- Gould’s sunbird, fire-tailed
birds at eye level. Even light crested bulbul. These are sunbird, green-tailed
conditions are better in such also great places to find sunbird, Himalayan monal,
scenarios. Tall, grassy fields local flycatchers. Many small Sultan tit, golden-crested Blyth’s tragopan.
on the outskirts of villages and shy birds from the myna, wreathed hornbill, Birding hotspots: West
can be home to the munia warbler family can be brown hornbill, rufous- Kameng (Eagle Nest
birding & wildlife

or even the more rare spotted along the bushes necked hornbill, Himalayan Wildlife Sanctuary), Sela

a birder’s guide
parrotbill and black- near these bamboo groves, bluetail, white-bellied Pass between Tawang and
but chasing warblers heron, beautiful sibia, wren West Kameng, Pakke Tiger
Greater racket-tailed drongo requires patience, both for warblers, barwings, green Reserve, Dibang Valley
spotting as well as cochoa, purple cochoa, and Roing in Lower
identification. beautiful nuthatch, ibisbill, Dibang Valley.
For the ibisbill, crested
kingfisher and wagtails,
rocky river streams are a In Arunachal, never miss green magpie can be found
good bet. Smaller rocky out on birds sitting near here. The best way to make
streams and rivulets are undergrowth vegetation; birds comfortable is to sit
home to forktails. Bigger rare birds such as the down quietly and wait
forest streams inside are yellow-bellied fantail, patiently till they emerge.
home to the brown dippers rufous-vented yuhina, You can find more
and Blyth’s kingfisher. Taller shortwing, pin-striped tit- information by logging in to
trees near the river banks babbler, silver-eared mesia, W [Link] or from local
are where you can spot the blue-winged siva (minla) and guides. Best Season:
fish eagle. even the glorious common November to February. ■

84 85
 Guneet narula
Northeast Indian forests, it’s park, for which the following
a precious stretch of options exist. Khari Forest

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

paradise, and can be Rest House, 12km inside the

reached through Seijosa in park, can be reached in 30
the east, Bhalukpong in the minutes by a vehicle or in 3
west or Pakke Kessang in hours by foot. The Rest
the north. Visitors are spoilt House overlooks the Khari
for choice as far as River and, if you’re lucky,
accommodation and you might have sightings of
activities are concerned. the elephant, gaur, barking
There are jungle camps, deer and sambar from the
homestays and tea comfort of the watchtower.
bungalows promising a Plenty of birds can also be

pakke tiger reserve

birding & wildlife

comfortable stay. Most of spotted from here.

these include riverside
A view of Pakke Tiger Reserve experiences, bird and Pugmark of a tiger
butterfly walks and other

Pakke Tiger Reserve ways of getting to know the

local flora and fauna. The
Tiger Reserve can be
■ Devathi Parashuram as the critically endangered accessed from two points—
white-rumped vulture, the Seijosa on the southern

P
akke Tiger Reserve endangered white-winged boundary and Tippi on the
accounts for some 20 wood duck and the western boundary. Seijosa is
per cent of Arunachal vulnerable rufous-necked connected to Guwahati and
Pradesh’s East Kameng hornbill. Tezpur in Assam.
District. This extremely bio- Pakke is among the
diverse spot has 103 largest continuous blocks of Seijosa Range
mammal species, including tropical forest in India. You can either stay in
six endangered mammals Essential for maintaining Seijosa and visit the Tiger
and 296 bird species such contiguity within the Reserve or stay inside the
Guneet narula

86 87
 Saniya Chaplod
If you spend the night at There are quite a few
Khari (remember to carry short treks around Khari,

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

your own food, which can which can easily be done in

be easily bought at local half a day. The 16-km-trek
stores), you can opt to stay to Khari pukhri and back is
at the Rest House or in highly recommended. It is
tents. The tents are a great moderately difficult with a
option because you can steep gradient near the
experience the forest come end. You will need to set
alive at night and sleep out very early in the
under the Milky Way. morning and carry food with
you, but it’s absolutely
Sibia worth it.

pakke tiger reserve

birding & wildlife

The pukhri is a magical The green setting of a Nyishi village

place. It is a large forest
pool girdled by large trees. Bank is located at the side of the Pakke River in
On my first visit there, we entrance to the Tiger Lanka village, Seijosa. It has
watched in awe as a flock of Reserve. Sukanala and Jaali a stunning hilltop view of
16 great hornbills flew nala are the nearby the Tiger Reserve and the
across the clear, blue sky seasonally dry streams gushing river down below.
directly above the surface of which are great to explore Lanka also offers some nice
the still green pool. The because of the plant birding trails. You can
hardened trekker can go diversity along the edges. contact Mr Tagi Heyo
ahead from here to the Nalas have better visibility (+91-8134864034) for rates
Khari pung, a natural salt- and are, therefore, good and bookings.
lick, which attracts mammals places to spot birds and are
and birds alike. excellent mud-puddling Tippi Range
The Forest Department sites for butterflies. Tippi (4km from
offers two other options for (2) The Lanka Rest House is Bhalukpong) and the
accommodation: (1) The 14km away from the park Kameng River mark the
Forest Rest House at West and located on the other western boundary of Pakke
Sanjiv valsan

88 89
 Aparajita Datta
Tiger Reserve. It’s definitely the banks of the Kameng
worth a visit because of the River. The Bhalukpong Ghat

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

dramatic change in land- anti-poaching camp (where

scape from the plains and you can also opt to stay)
rolling hills of the Seijosa and the western side of the
range to a much sharper Tiger Reserve can be
relief. Tippi can be reached accessed after crossing over
by road from Seijosa in on a boat.
under two hours (80km).
Hotels and tourist lodges Pakke Paga
are available in Bhalukpong Hornbill Festival
town, but we would recom- Paga is the Nyishi word for
mend staying at the Tippi the great hornbill. Having

pakke tiger reserve

birding & wildlife

Forest Rest House, which been celebrated in Seijosa

boasts a scenic location on during the second or third
week of January since 2015,
A wildflower in Pakke this festival is centred
around wildlife and high- A scene from the Pakke Paga Hornbill Festival
lights the role of the Nyishi
community in conservation by Chief Minister Pema and hornbill roost site
efforts in the area. It has Khandu. The three-day festi- watches. Food stalls made
helped in creating aware- val is hosted in Darlong vil- entirely of bamboo serve
ness about the state, its lage, Seijosa. The venue is a local cuisine and apong (rice
people, cultural and wildlife beautiful spot on the banks beer) from various districts
heritage, and can potential- of the Pakke River with the of Arunachal, while NGOs
ly help boost eco-tourism in tiger reserve in the back- working in the area and the
the area, providing greater drop. Activities in and Arunachal Pradesh Forest
incentive for the local com- around the ground include Department have interest-
munity to participate in con- street plays, traditional local ing posters, activities and
servation. In 2018, PPHF sports, cultural programmes, merchandise at their stalls.
was declared a state festival village walks, river walks, At the 2019 festival, the
Tali Nabam

90 91
 arjun kamdar
Virtual Reality booth set up huddle with the family
by the Forest Department around the hearth and listen

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

was a huge hit. to folk stories and songs. If

you ask nicely, they might
Local Homestays and the even dress you up in Nyishi
Pakke Jungle Camp attire! Rice is the staple
Located in Darlong village, along with boiled vegetables
Rasham Brah and his family (usually leafy) and meat.
have a quaint room adjoin- Another homestay is located
ing their chang-ghar or in Mabuso-II, a small village
traditional Nyishi bamboo with only three other houses.
house on raised wooden It’s a little over 14km away
stilts. In the mornings, you from the entry gate to

pakke tiger reserve

birding & wildlife

can have tea on the porch Seijosa and involves crossing

outside, and in the evenings, a river with a 4WD vehicle or
on foot during the monsoon, A sunbird feeds on nectar in the Pakke Tiger Reserve
Pakke Jungle Camp when the water level rises.
These homestays cost visits to the Tiger Reserve the Delta Company, the
`1,500–2,000/night, can be arranged. You can locals will. Eaglenest is
inclusive of food. contact Suresh Pait for tucked away on the western
The Pakke Jungle Camp bookings (+91-9402037005, boundary of Arunachal
is a community initiative run +91-8416090151). Pradesh, close to Bhutan.
by the Ghora-Aabhe Set up in 1989, Eaglenest
Society, a local NGO. It’s Eaglenest Wildlife today hosts over 600 spe-
located in A2 village, 10km Sanctuary cies of birds.
away from the entry gate. The drive from the Pakke
There are four cottages with Tiger Reserve to the Rafting
attached bathrooms in the Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary The Kameng River is a tribu-
camp here. Activities such is a visual treat. If the driver tary of the Brahmaputra and
as village and river walks, doesn’t entertain you with one of the most recent to
bird/butterfly walks, and tales of military valour by open up to whitewater raft-
guneet narula

92 93
 ing. It offers moderate to Essentials:
difficult rapids. There are l Umbrella/rain jacket
Paragliding
adventure holidays

plenty of rafting tours and l Warm clothes (if you’re

expeditions offered online. visiting from November
to February Arunachal pradesh
Getting to Seijosa l Walking/trekking shoes Fancy being in the clouds? Head to Mechuka for
The nearest airports are l Binoculars paragliding and we’re sure you’ll reach Cloud 9.
in Tezpur (60km) and l Mosquito repellent/tick
Guwahati (230km). repellent
If you are flying into l Medicines: The nearest
Northeast India, the best Community Health Centre is
way to reach is to take a at Upper Seijosa, 4km from
flight to Guwahati. There the entry gate.
birding & wildlife

are regular buses available l The nearest hospital is

daily from Guwahati to in Tezpur.
Tezpur and Tezpur to l Best time to visit: Novem-
Seijosa. Another option is to ber to April. Temperature:
hire a cab from Guwahati 12–34°C
directly to Seijosa, which
will take about six hours, Transport
but this costs `5,000–6,000. Transport can be an issue so
You can also hire a cab from it’s best to hire a taxi for the
some of the other towns en duration of your stay in
route, like Tezpur (2hrs), Seijosa. This can be done at
Balipara (90mins) or Choibari, since it’s much
Choibari (40mins). more expensive to hire one
The nearest railway in Seijosa. Private vehicles/
stations are at Choibari taxis are allowed inside
(36km), Biswanath Charali Pakke on paying a vehicle
(47km) and Rangapara fee, but Forest Department
Department of Tourism
(60km). jeeps can also be hired. ■ Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India
Phone: +91-360-2214745 | E-mail: tourismdirectorap@[Link]
94
follow us on Arunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm
 Photographs by sanjiv valsan
deeply intertwined with the
forests around. Their most

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

striking belief is that they

consider the tiger to be
their elder brother and
hence are strong propo-
nents of big-cat conserva-
tion and do not permit its
hunting. A tiger that has
been inadvertently killed in
an encounter of any kind
receives the same kind of
funeral that a human being
birding & wildlife

would get.

dibang valley
Similarly, other large
mammals such as the serow,
black bear and Mishmi takin

Dibang Valley A boisterous stream in Anini are governed by a set of

taboos that restrict the
forests to high alpine and number of animals killed
■ Arjun Kamdar massive altitudinal range snow grasslands. and seek to harvest these
(700–5,000m above sea wild resources in a limited

T
he Dibang Valley, one level) and geographical The Idu Mishmi Tribe: manner. Though it’s
of the last wild area, you will find Malayan, Keepers of the Cats incredibly difficult to spot a
frontiers on the Oriental, Palearctic, and A majority of the population tiger here, the upper
planet, is where the roaring Indian realms of wildlife in comprises the Idu Mishmi reaches of Dibang Wildlife
waters of the Yarlung the region. These vast tribe who share an incredi- Sanctuary at the northern-
Tsangpo of Tibet take a woods extend from dense, bly intricate relationship most tip of the country also
U-turn and flow into India as wet evergreen forests with the forests and biodi- hold the record for being
a tributary of the through mixed temperate versity of the region; their the highest altitude where
Brahmaputra. Owing to its and verdant bamboo customs and traditions tigers have been recorded

96 97
 Poorva Goel
in the country, earning them to the respect accorded to
the title of ‘snow tigers’ in these cats by the Idu

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

newspaper headlines. What Mishmis. As of now, Dibang

the news reports don’t has the highest density of
glamorise enough though, wild cats in India, with seven
is that the majority of the species being recorded—
tigers documented through the tiger, leopard, clouded
camera trapping in Dibang leopard, marbled cat,
were actually outside the golden bay cat, leopard cat
official wildlife reserve, not and unconfirmed records of
within, suggesting that the snow leopard.
Dibang’s conservation What sets Dibang apart
success story is more thanks from the other wildlife
birding & wildlife

reserves in the country is

dibang valley
King cobra that it has no motorable
roads; the only way to visit
the park is to trek through An artist’s depiction of the Linsang
it. This leads to a very
intimate understanding of Lower Dibang as buses unload their pas-
the forest as one can see Valley: Roing sengers here.
how the landscape, the The now easily accessible The dense, evergreen
vegetation and the fauna town of Roing is a base for forests of the Himalayan
change with an increase in travelling to Anini and foothills in the vicinity of
altitude towards the Indo- beyond, the last place with Roing are home to a host of
Tibetan border; from the creature comforts such as rare biodiversity such as the
broad-leafed evergreen hot water, internet and fast eastern hoolock gibbon
forests to bamboo brakes food. Roing is the quintes- whose loud whooping calls
and swamp peats, sub- sential small, foothills-of- reverberate through the
tropical pine, temperate the-Himalayas town with a jungle, along with calls of
conifers and shrubs, and sleepy bazaar characterised sultan tits, scarlet minivets,
alpine meadows. by pulsed peaks of activity maroon orioles and white-
Siddhartha Sharma

98 99
 cheeked partridges. The recorded in the region
floodplains of the though infrequently

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

Brahmaputra that form spotted. Mehao Lake, part

grasslands around Roing are of the Mehao Wildlife
also home to species with Sanctuary (which dissolves
very specific habitats such into the fringes of Roing
as the slaty-backed forktail, town itself), is a must for
black-throated parrotbill, birding and flora
marsh babbler, golden- enthusiasts, and is only
headed cisticola, and accessible through trekking.
striated grassbird. The
critically endangered Bengal Activities and
florican has also been Accommodation (Roing)
birding & wildlife

A visit to the bazaar is a

dibang valley
Camping in Dibang Valley good idea to pick up some
local, organic goodies;
green leafy vegetables, Enjoying a barbecue by the river at dusk
small mounds of the red-hot
capsaicin-loaded chilli pep- their handicrafts. Mishmi relax. The town’s Mini Zoo
pers and organic oranges Hills Camp located a few shares a boundary with the
being offered by old ladies, hundred metres off the main property but is in a rather
a pork-seller, a shop selling road along the serene Eze dilapidated state.
intricately patterned copper- River is frequented by trav-
handled machetes, and ellers interested in exploring Mayudia Pass to Anini
freshly harvested honey sold the region for wildlife and Although most wildlife
in Royal Stag whisky bottles adventure. The comfortable enthusiasts that visit the
pepper the market. Idu tents, wood and bamboo Mishmi Hills travel from
Mishmis are also known to cottages and warm hospital- Roing, up to Mayudia Pass,
be the best weavers in the ity of the owner, Mr Jibi we would recommend the
state, and Roing town has Pulu, make it a wonderful day’s journey up to Anini
at least three stores selling place to simply unwind and and exploring the regions

100 101
 around there as they host a marked up by about 20 per
greater range of flora and cent or so.

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

fauna. Anini is the district From Anini, there are

headquarters where most of two roads that diverge and
the sparse population is both are less travelled! One
concentrated. There are snakes along the Mathu
only a couple of places to River to Mipi, which Captain
stay here: Dutta’s Morshead, who attempted
(+91-9402649283) rudimen- to map the region in 1912,
tary lodge and the govern- described as “the going
ment circuit house. There was extremely hard, as
are also a few general stores the incessant rain and the
although everything is rapid melting of the snow
birding & wildlife

on the hills had combined

dibang valley
Mayudia Pass to render the whole country
a morass.”
This is the trade route Stopping on a high-altitude snowy road
that the Mishmis used when
bartering skins, medicinal massive bamboo rat Mammals
plants and grain for salt with gnawing away at the roots The Mishmi Hills are hands-
the Tibetans. of the bamboo while the down one of the most spe-
This route makes for a beautiful sibia and great cies-rich places in terms of
picturesque trek (though barbet call from the canopy. mammal diversity in the
having to cross over It is also a good spot for the country. The elusive Mishmi
swaying, rickety bamboo fire-tailed myzorni and the takin, a golden-brown goat-
bridges!) with a host of green-tailed sunbird. This antelope living in the higher
interesting biodiversity. region is also dotted with altitudes, can be spotted
While trekking through the natural ‘salt-licks’ which here, particularly in the
bamboo forest, if one is herbivores frequently visit, months of June and July
completely silent, you can thus increasing the when they congregate
hear the sound of the probability of spotting one. around sulphur hot water

102 103
 Shutterstock
springs. The white-cheeked Arunachal Pradesh. There
macaque, a recently discov- are also two species of

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

ered species of monkey, is musk deer found here, the

found in the mid-elevation alpine and the Himalayan.
belt along with the Additionally, there are a
Gongshan barking deer that host of small mammals such
was reported for the first as red panda, stoat, linsang,
time from India. weasel, Himalayan masked
As one moves up along civet, pika and the Asiatic
the altitudinal gradient, one wild dog that abound these
can spot the red goral, a forests. Leopard cats often
mountain goat found sit on the cement parapet
exclusively in this part of constructed along the road
birding & wildlife

to Dambein.

dibang valley
Mishmi takin
Birds
Dibang Valley is considered Chestnut-breasted partridge
a birdwatcher’s paradise,
with close to 700 species of It was discovered by the birdwatchers. The spot-
birds being documented ‘birdman of India’, Dr Salim breasted parrotbill is seen
here, a major portion of the Ali, in 1947 and was not around the villages of
1,300 bird species that India seen again until a bird- Mihundo and Alinye along
boasts. The most sought-af- watcher recorded its call with the slender-billed
ter bird that draws people in 2004. scimitar babbler. The
from all corners of the world Strikingly beautiful coniferous forests with long
is the critically-endangered pheasants such as the multi- old-man’s-beard moss
and highly elusive Mishmi coloured Sclater’s monal, hanging from the branches
wren-babbler, a miniscule the crimson-orange Blyth’s is also the favourite haunt of
bird that flits around in the tragopan and chestnut- the Ward’s trogon; named
undergrowth and is found breasted partridge are also after the botanist who
nowhere else on the planet. high on the wishlist of explored this region in the
Shutterstock

104 105
 early 1920s. The blue- De Nicéville’s windmill but-
winged siva, black-throated terflies, which are extremely

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

sunbird, golden-breasted rare and given the highest

fulvetta, Manipur fulvetta protection status according
and streak-throated barwing to the wildlife laws. The
are small but fascinating rather interesting bird-poop
birds to keep an eye out for. frog is also found in the mid
elevations.
Microfauna
Though understudied, some Mithuns
of the microfauna of the The mithun is a large semi-
Mishmi Hills stand out, such domesticated bovine that
as the Khaki silverline and plays an integral role in the
birding & wildlife

culture of the Idu Mishmis.

dibang valley
Khaki silverline butterfly It is not only a sign of their
prosperity but is also sacri-
ficed in all of their festivals Idu Mishmis during a shamanic ritual at Etalin
and important events such
as weddings and personal ing, lest you should feel slight swelling of the limbs,
Reh festivals. their cold sliminess and pick though this ceases to hap-
them off! However, leeches pen with subsequent bites.
Leeches and damdums are the more benign of the Wearing full pants and
The Mishmi Hills are notori- bloodsuckers once you get shirts offers some protection
ous for sly, blood-sucking to know damdums. from damdums while leech
leeches. Leeches here are a These miniscule insects, socks suffice for the leeches.
shade smarter than the smaller than a mosquito, However, both leeches and
average, they not only drop pack quite a punch with damdums’ presence is
down on you but also wait their bites that cause very almost negligible in winters
in the folds of your clothes itchy painful welts to swell. owing to the rather low
until they are the same tem- For most people, the first temperatures that are not
perature as you before bit- bite is associated with a conducive to their survival.
Shutterstock

106 107
 Food and wine Anini also cultivating
Rice beer, known as yew in their own yeast to ferment

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adventure holidays

Idu, plays a huge role in the the wine.

everyday life of the Idus; the
day is incomplete without Festivals
laughing around the roaring The Idus celebrate their ani-
fire in the centreplace of the mist festivals with great
stilted bamboo longhouse gusto and fervour. A signifi-
(changghar) with a glass of cant festival is the new,
thick yew had in a bamboo ‘centralised’ form of their
mug. Interestingly, each otherwise ancient Reh ani-
household brews its own mist ritual that is held
yew with the villages around around the first week of
birding & wildlife

February for the community

dibang valley
Yew, the local grain wine to come together as a fra-
ternity. Ke-meh-ha is the tra-
ditional harvest festival cele- A woman preparing Idu Mishmi fare
brated in September.
canopy offers poor shooting 57180) for mammals and
Contact Points conditions even at mid-day. birds. Gaurav Kataria runs
As the fauna is It is advisable to hire guides birding camps in the region
unaccustomed to human who are well-informed as well (09999030436,
presence in these sparsely- about the natural history of email: info@eaglenest
travelled through forests, the region as they have a [Link]); Tine Mena
they are highly skittish and fair idea about potential (09436875102, 089742-
wary of people thus offering spots for particular animals. 99357), the first woman
only a fleeting glimpse. You can contact Binanda Everester from Arunachal,
Photographers will require a Hatiboruah (09435271651, and Iho Mitapo, a local
good zoom lens and a 09954861743), for bird- environmentalist, run the
camera that does well in watching and Ravi Mekola Mishmi Hills Trekking
low-light as the dense (09774748828, 094024 Company can also help. ■

108 109
 A day in Zemithang: Monpa Buddhist tribe initially couldn’t figure out

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adventure holidays

refrains from hunting, and what or who humans were.

reveres wild animals to a Finally, out of confusion, he
A wildlife filmmaker’s diary certain degree, in turn lead- sneezed loudly, which is
ing to better chances of their alarm call, and darted
■ Omar Khan areas, and going on foot is sighting wildlife. Driving down with the rest into the
not everyone’s cup of green from Zemithang to T-Gompa valley below.

A
runachal Pradesh has tea. Once in a while, one cold September morn- But the day wasn’t over
the highest however, you can have a ing, we first came across a yet. Ahead, on the same
mammalian diversity, really lucky day. goshawk feeding on a road, were blood spoor,
more than any other state in blood pheasant it had just with tufts of hair. And,
the country. But unlike the Tawang to Zemithang killed at a bend. finally, seeing a large stain

a day in zemithang
birding & wildlife

case with birds, spotting In the northwesternmost A few kilometres ahead, on a rock, we parked the
mammals in these areas can part of Arunachal lies the a herd of goral were car to investigate once
be a Herculean task for a district of Tawang, a moun- sunning themselves on the again. A large animal,
wildlife filmmaker because tainous region with abun- ledges. Sneaking up to the probably a yak, was most
the jungles are so dense. dant waterfalls, high-altitude small band, a few metres likely injured and being
The terrain does not allow lakes and panoramic views away, we were undetected. chased by a predator, and
for road access to core of snow-capped peaks. The One of the curious juveniles had to run downhill.

110 111
 shutterstock
Tracking the path led to hiked back up to the car
more tufts of hair, more and pretended like he was

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adventure holidays

blood spoor and some talking on the phone loudly,

small rocks. Finally, in a walking further and further
deep ravine, was the carcass with his voice, to let them
of a young yak, and pug ‘deduce’ that humans were
marks of the dhole, or the leaving, and it was safe to
Indian wild dog, a species break cover. Just as he was
that’s even more fading out of earshot, some
endangered than the tiger rustling and whimpering
(which is also found in began; a small pack of five
Arunachal). The yak was a dholes emerged, and began
fresh kill, its body still warm. eating to their heart’s con-

a day in zemithang
birding & wildlife

The dholes had purposely tent. They feasted greedily

and strategically driven it to for the next two hours, and
this steep rocky area, where several minutes of great
it had fallen on the rocks footage was the result. Indian wild dog
and broken its legs, before Moving onwards with our
they overpowered it. journey, some five kilome- 2013, when I went to recce There are homestays availa-
tres from T-Gompa was an its forests and the mysteries ble in the area and there is
Lateral thinking animal on a tree right next they held. also dormitory accommoda-
In such situations, it’s some- to the road where we Little did I know then tion at T-Gompa, which is a
times best to install a cam- stopped for tea. Turns out that I’d keep coming back short distance from
ouflage tent a few metres there were two of them, the every year to explore a new Sangetsar lake, a popular
from the kill and wait it out. fluffy red pandas. The part of the state, stack up tourist destination. An
This didn’t work, initially. camera batteries were some memories only to optional drive that can be
Nothing happened for two nearly exhausted, but there head back again! done is from Zemithang on
hours, and we decided to was just enough left for a the west towards Lumpu
try something new to fool few shots. The place village, and then onwards
the intelligent, strategy- My first foray into Zemithang is a village about on foot to sight the rare
minded dogs. One of us Arunachal Pradesh was in 80km from Tawang town. red panda. ■

112 113
 &
angling
rafting
 Photographs by Nino Dai
and joins the Kameng River.
You will require rafts to

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adventure holidays

reach spots that are inacces-

sible by foot, where the
sensitive mahseer normally
swims about. Ensure that
you get expert river guides,
as the river has some
treacherous rapids. The
bhorali, another fighting
fish, has also been seen in
the lower sections of the
river near Assam. If your
ambition is to hook a mon-
ster mahseer, then you must
angling

angling
make sure that your equip-
ment is up to the mark.
Strong rods with braided
lines and leaders are the
order of the day. A mini-

Angling in Arunachal snakehead and bhorali.

Every river has different
mum of 30lbs braid is
required, though normally
inhabitants here. anglers go about with a
■ Nino Dai loves the fresh, fast-flowing minimum of 50lbs.
Himalayan rivers here. But The Kameng

W
hen it comes to in all the excitement There are plenty of opportu- The Subansiri
angling in surrounding the mahseer, nities to catch the exotic The ‘River of Gold’ has
Arunachal one ought not to forget the golden mahseer here. The always been the ultimate
Pradesh, the first fish that goonch, chocolate or best areas are after Bana, destination for golden,
one can think of is the copper mahseers, rainbow where the Bichum River chocolate and the very rare
golden mahseer, which trouts, brown trouts, flows from the Dirang area copper mahseer. This is cer-

116 117
 tainly not an easy one, as it lures can range from plugs
involves a rafting trip of five and spoons to spinners

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adventure holidays

nights. There are no roads depending on the season.

here; you are amid pure Heavy spoons or heavy
wilderness. sinking lures are best during
The only downside is the the dry season. End of
dam being built at the end monsoon trips can provide
of the river, which is a good catch with soft lures
stopping fish migrating to and plugs near the river
the upper areas for confluence. You can also try
spawning. Again, if your bait fishing with a local,
ambition is to hook a multipurpose insect called
monster mahseer, then you the tari (stinkbug), which is
must make sure that your highly effective!
equipment is good. The
angling

angling
The Siang
This river normally intimi- Angler on the Subansiri
dates most anglers with its
enormous size, width and usual, as it was caught by in a safe and conducive
depth. For most of the year, local fishermen. The lower environment can grow up to
the river is coloured and sections of the river, close 30kg too, while the goonch
muddy. It starts to clear up to Pasighat, are good for can grow up to 100kg here!
by mid-November, and is at the snakeheads and bhorali.
its best till March. While the The month of May can be The Simang
world record for mahseers considered as active goonch The Simang River is a tribu-
stands at 34.6kg approxi- season, the fish known as tary of the Siang, and flows
mately, this river is home to ngoney or ngorik here. from its source, which is a
golden mahseer monsters, Snakeheads, which are also high-altitude lake and a
with the biggest found very popular game fish, spring originating in the
being 37kg! This went un- grow to large sizes in the Mouling area. The river
recorded internationally as Siang, up to 17kg! A bhorali flows past the villages of

118 119
 Subley, Sine and Pareng river by the Dosing Social
and the township of Boleng, Welfare Society (DSWS) has

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adventure holidays

to finally meet the Siang. been a success story, and

Fishing season is from May inspired the first Simang-
to September, when the Siang Angling Festival,
river is high. It is primarily which attracted 87 anglers
famed for the golden mah- from across the country.
seer. The Simang-Siang
confluence is also a very The Dibang
popular spot for fishing. The Dibang is fondly
During the summer months, dubbed as ‘home of golden
you can actually catch a mahseer’ due to the abun-
goonch here on a lure! The dance of the fish in this
conservation effort on this river. It is not easy to access
the interiors of this river, but
angling

angling
Big fish call for tough gear some operators do a great Camping on a river beach in Arunachal
job at getting anglers to the
remote areas for a thrilling Papum-Poma Confluence tributaries; this is their
experience. This can involve Flowing next to Itanagar, spawning season. This is
hiking a good distance, and this river is suitable for when they tend to be more
if you are lucky, maybe even anglers on a short holiday. It predatory, and will swim
crossing the river on an ele- is ideal for golden mahseer. after lures. This is why you
phant! This river has many Start your trip from Itanagar can catch the goonch on a
angling spots, but they are and end at Ram Ghat. lure at the Simang-Siang
almost inaccessible except confluence. During the win-
perhaps by rafting, which Seasonal Tip ters, when the water
itself is tough, as it is also Angling in Arunachal recedes, the fish tend to
one of the hardest rivers for depends on the season. hang around in pools above
rafting! If you don’t catch a When the major rivers are or below rapids. This is
fish on this river you still coloured, muddy and swol- when heavy quick-sinking
won’t be disappointed. len, fish tend to swim into lures do the job. ■

120 121
 Rafting In Arunachal

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

■ Nino Dai stricted, and of classes III–IV.

After the Bichum confluence

A
runachal Pradesh’s near Bana, the volume of
rivers can range from the river increases dramati-
mellow and cally with one Class V rapid
moderate to downright (depending on water levels)
adrenaline-pumping when it and numerous Class IV rap-
comes to whitewater rafting. ids till you reach Tippi, near
Most major rivers here are Bhalukpong. The landscape
ideal during the dry winter after the Bichum confluence
season, which incidentally is is fantastic, especially near
also the major tourist the Bana gorge.
rafting

rafting
season. The smaller rivers Itinerary: Guwahati-
are more viable during the Bhalukong-Seppa-
monsoon, when they swell Marjangla (385km)
in size and speed. Difficulty: Moderate to hard;
safety kayaker recommen-
Kameng ded, though it could also be
The Kameng River in a raft-only trip
Western Arunachal is great
for rafting as it offers quite a Subansiri
variety of difficulty levels. If This river is fantastic in
you are rafting from every way! There are two
Marjangla, it can be termed districts named after the
as a proper river expedition. river—Upper Subansiri and
From Marjangla to the Lower Subansiri. The river
Bichum River confluence, flows from Upper Subansiri
most of the rapids are con- into the boundary between

122 123
 Nino Dai

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adventure holidays
rafting

rafting
Kamle district and Lower gorges and forests. The rap- Rafters conquer tough rapids on the Subansiri
Siang district. The popular ids are fun, and generally
rafting ‘put in’ point is at not difficult to manoeuvre. Nearest Railhead: Silapathar Brahmaputra in India and
either Sippi, Daporijo or The river beaches are also Driving distance: 280km Yarlung Tsangpo in Tibet. It
Kuporijo, and rafting hap- excellent, making it an ener- from Dibrugarh is the most legendary river
pens down to Gerukamukh gising experience overall. Difficulty: Moderately in Arunachal Pradesh. It is a
(Assam) where the ‘take-out’ Carry some insect repellent, challenging part of one of the longest
point is. It’s about 80km of especially during October river systems, flowing from
pure fun and magic! Once and mid-to-late February, to Siang Manasarovar to Bangladesh!
you raft past the township keep yourself safe from Mother of all rivers, people There are five districts
of Dumporijo, you witness sand flies (damdum ). in the region call her ‘Ane named after this river,
wilderness at its very best, Nearest Airport: Dibrugarh Siang’. The river is also namely Upper Siang, West
with great water, beautiful and Lilabari known as the Upper Siang, Siang, East Siang and

124 125
 Photographs: Ahtushi deshpande

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adventure holidays

Rafting on a calm river stretch; kayaks take on the rapids (facing page)
rafting

rafting
Lower Siang. The conven- waters in the world, and you
ient thing about the Siang is require expert and experi-
that it can be divided into enced river runners to guide
sections, according to raft- you through it.
ing grades, from pro to Ranging from large-
beginner-level. The first sec- volume Class IV and IV-plus
tion is popularly known as to Class V rapids, this
‘Tuting down’ (Tuting is the section requires safety
last administrative town in kayakers and catarafts. For
the Upper Siang district more traditional rafting, you
before the McMahon line, can do the Yingkiong-down,
and is the popular ‘put-in’ which satisfies many with its
point, though some also opt combined rafting and
to ‘put-in’ at Ningging cultural experience. This
village). This section has section has some challeng-
some of the best white ing rapids, and also

126 127
 Nino Dai
provides an opportunity to and kids. The Siang has
visit local Adi tribal villages. huge river beaches the size

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

The third section is Rottung- of a couple of football

down. This is your bang-for- fields, a rare pleasure
buck section, for travellers among mountain rivers.
who don’t have the time Nearest Airport: Dibrugarh
and want to experience as Nearest Railhead: Murkong
much as possible. The last Selek
section is the Bodak/ Difficulty: Moderate to hard
Marying-down, which is Itinerary: Dibrugarh-
more of a laidback float Pasighat-Jengging/
about and picnic trip for Yingkiong-Tuting (total
those travelling with families distance 400km)
Note: As of now, this is the
most viable river for
rafting

rafting
commercial rafting due to Subansiri River flowing through the eastern Himalayas
ease of connectivity by road
and air. It is easier for the power of the water. Most of is prohibited for foreign
operators here to arrange the river, ironically, flows tourists, and can be expen-
for good logistics. along the Anjaw district, sive for domestic tourists
and not the Lohit district who typically want just a
Lohit that has been named after day of rafting in a profes-
This is by far the most chal- it. Rafting on the Lohit is sional river with a Class V
lenging river to tackle for a commercially viable along section. Nonetheless, it is a
rafter. The Lohit is an the Parasuram Kund area great all-in-all, a majestic
extremely beautiful river and has the potential to river, with great potential!
with turquoise blue waters become popular if marketed Nearest Airport: Dibrugarh
and powerful whitewater properly and well explored Itinerary: Dibrugarh-
rapids. What you first expe- by professional rafters. Tinsukia-Chongkham-
rience as a rafter here is the Unfortunately, the fun part Wakro-Hayuliang-Walong
sheer sense of volume and of the river, around Walong, Distance: 250km ■
Ahtushi deshpande

128 129
paragliding
 Mechuka and Lumdung

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

■ Sanjiv Valsan trip. Even if you don’t get to

fly, there are still plenty of

T
he rather meagre activities happening
waiting-time to flying- simultaneously to quickly
time ratio when it assuage any heartache from
comes to paragliding in foiled paragliding plans.
Mechuka can typically mean
spending a lot of time Pappu Valley
trekking up a hill with stuff, If Mechuka seems like too
only to wait there for hours long a wait just for a nice

mechuka & lumdung

for the perfect wind. This is view, Lumdung, in Pappu
paragliding

in addition to the time Valley, 19km from Seppa

already taken to even town, is the complete oppo-
reach faraway Mechuka. A site. There’s no need to
hit rate of one or two flights climb (with paragliding gear)
a day, at the most, is the atop cliffs at all, and takeoff
average here. and landing spots are both
There is a lot of potential close to roads. Landing
to be tapped when it comes spots are surrounded by
to paragliding in these hills; paddy fields from all sides
this involves evaluating for several kilometres, and
different spots over a period there are no high tension
of time. As of now, most wires; if your gear is in good
people come and fly during shape and you fly correctly,
the annual adventure there are almost no chances
festival, Adventure@ of fatal accidents resulting
Mechuka in November, and from terrain conditions,
that’s the time to plan your according to regular pilots

132 133
 Photographs courtesy Paragliding Association of Arunachal

here; the views cannot com- able for the Arunachal

pare to those in Mechuka, of Paragliding Festival, which

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

course, but they’re still pretty aims to become an annual

good. Safety, convenience event attracting close to a
and consistency are pretty hundred pilots to Pappu
compelling draws after all, Valley. Winds at Pappu
and there is probably no Valley are generaly slow, and
downside to it. The takeoff flying is best done after
(1,151m) faces south, and is 9.30am, after which things
big enough for two or three are more consistent till about
gliders to take off simultane- 2-3pm. Soaring can happen
ously, while the landing till late in the day, and both
(698m) doesn’t have tall mountain and flatland ther-

mechuka & lumdung

trees or uneven landscapes mals are consistently large,
paragliding

in which you can get tan- meaning there are hours of Paragliding at Lumdung in Pappu Valley
gled. This made the site suit- flying possibilities, whether
you’re an experienced pilot, fields are no longer damp
learner or tandem rider. (December and January).
February onwards, rains can
Lumdung: Equipment hire spoil the show.
and Best Season Tandem rides: Cost `3,500,
Pilots who cannot get their including the use of a
own equipment can also GoPro and drop to and
hire gear at Seppa for from Seppa town.
`1,000–1,500, but these are
generally slower, beginner- Where to stay
level gliders for the moment Seppa town is 19km away.
(Bruce Goldsmith 75–110 kg Homestays can be managed
and Niviuk 55–75 kg). in the nearby Nyishi villages
Thermals are best once the of Lumdung, Veo, Sede,
paddy is harvested and the Seba, and Nere. The charg-

134 135
 sanjiv valsan
es have been kept extreme- equipment hire (094360
ly low for pilots flying at 41860, 08787597545)

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

Pappu Valley to promote

paragliding here, if you Mechuka
bring your own sleeping The Adventure@Mechuka
bag and stay in a traditional ( W [Link])
bamboo house with a Nyishi festival is the time for
tribal family. These are tribal paragliding here, especially
village huts; Seppa has for tandem rides.
more conventional hotels. Apart from paragliding,
Contact: Vijay Sonam of the the schedule is generally
Arunachal Paragliding packed with activities such
Association for more as competitive angling,

mechuka & lumdung

information on flying long-distance as well as
paragliding

conditions, tandem rides, downhill mountain biking,

accommodation and kayaking, local food and
The ethereal beauty of Mechuka
Paragliding in Mechuka
musical performances, and Learning Paragliding in
the standard at every festi- Arunachal
val in Arunachal these days, NIMAS Dirang is a great
fashion shows! place to learn paragliding
Mechuka’s hospitable from scratch, at an afforda-
locals also open their homes ble cost, from qualified
to visitors to stay during the trainers. Here, you can
festival. Overall, it’s a great begin with ground training,
entry into this beautiful and eventually progress to
place and its wonderful three flights per day. They
people, irrespective of generally practise in the
how long you need to wait beautiful Sangti Valley, but
for takeoff! also fly at Lumdung. ■
sanjiv valsan

136 137
 travel essentials common language, since without a accommodation by a genuinely
common tongue, none of these tribes hospitable tribal person you just met,

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

THE PLACE Bhutan, China/ Tibet and Myanmar, would have been able to understand who refuses to accept money for it
Arunachal Pradesh is over 81% forest along with a long history of exchange each other’s languages. English is also since it is against his culture and ethos
– these include tropical, sub tropical, and migrations from each of these spoken in towns, since it’s the medium to charge for food or stay. So it helps
pine forests, temperate forests and places, and as far away as present-day of education. In Eastern Arunachal, to have a bunch of nice gifts ready in
alpine forests, along with several sub- Mongolia. Officially, there are 26 major some Assamese is also spoken. Since your bag to give away in such
types. It is one of the world’s most tribes with over 100 ‘sub-tribes’ and there are so many tribes here, tribal situations; these will be happily
unexplored biodiversity hotspots. dozens of languages, but in reality the festivals feature almost year-round, and accepted, and can sometimes go
Climate varies with elevation (wide diversity is even more than these make for good bookmarks to plan an much better with the culture, unlike
range between 50-7,000 mts msl), numbers suggest. Culturally and itinerary. Animist festivals, rituals and money. Alternatively, one could also
ranging from humid subtropical, to geographically the state’s ethnics weddings almost invariably involve a buy handicrafts from them, since
temperate, and cold, alpine at highest groups can be divided into some publicly visible animal sacrifice (it will nearly every woman in the villages is a
travel essentials

travel essentials
elevations, where it can snow during broad categories – the Indo-Tibetan be eaten subsequently); the faint- textile weaver here, and most older
winters. It experiences heavy rainfall of Mahayana Buddhist tribes such as the hearted might want to take note in men are adept at bamboo craft. In any
2000-4100mm annually. Rains begin Monpas, Sherdukpen, Brokpas and advance. Elderly people are highly case in some tribes, when you visit any
around February, but it’s most intense Membas; the animist Mishmi tribes respected in tribal societies, and senior old villager’s home, it is often
between April and October. Most like the Idu Mishmis, Digaru Mishmis citizens have a good life compared to customary to bring small gifts in kind
travellers plan their trip during the dry and Miju Mishmis; the ‘Tani Tribes,’ their urban counterparts. such as tea leaves, coffee, dry fish, dry
winter months for obvious reasons, but such as the Nyishis, Apatanis, Galos, meat, etc; so it’s best to prepare
flora tourism is year-round, since Tagins and various Adi tribes; and the Hospitality accordingly. At the end of your trip, if
different species have different Theravada Buddhists like the The tribals of Arunachal are a warm, you have any extra gifts left, you could
flowering seasons. Butterfly tours will Khamptis, Singphos; and the Indo- friendly, generous and cheerful lot, and give them to villagers away anyway
obviously follow a similar pattern since Burmese tribes close to the Myanmar in general homestays are far more just to make people happy, leading to
butterfly diversity follows flower border like the Tangsa tribes, Nocte interesting than hotels. Tourism is still new bonds, friendships and cultural
diversity. groups and Wanchos, who share raw, infrastructure is just about coming exchange.
cultural and ethnic similarities with up and creature comforts might not
THE PEOPLE tribes in Nagaland and Myanmar. The always be possible in many places, but Safety
To put the state’s diversity in major religions are Buddhism, this is all part of the adventure. You In general, this is a safer state for
perspective, Arunachal Pradesh shares Christianity and various ethnic might even encounter situations where travellers (solo female travellers
borders with Assam, Nagaland, animistic faiths. Hindi is used as a you will be offered food and homestay included) than many parts of India, and

138 139
 robberies are extremely rare, especially Arunachal. These can be incredibly Guwahati airport and Ulubari, which is Getting in and out of Naharlagun
in smaller towns and rural areas, and convenient, save lots of time and near the railway station in downtown railway station using public transport

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

provided you exercise basic present great value for money; but Guwahati. Smartphone app-based all can be a confusing affair, especially for
commonsense, it’s generally safe to safety and last-minute flight taxi services such as Ola and Uber are those catching early morning trains
trust in the hospitality of locals you cancellations can be a concern during otherwise the cheapest and most from Naharlagun. At the Itanagar end
might meet. However, days typically rough weather. Additionally, you could reliable means to move around of things, the government-run APST
begin and end early here, and streets suddenly find that your booking stands Guwahati town till you make your bus service has a bus service running
and lanes in bazaar areas of small cancelled due an emergency medical onward journey. to and from Naharlagun railway station
towns are deserted late at night, so it’s case requiring quick transport. All and Itanagar/Naharlagun town,
probably best not to pursue an things considered, it’s tricky to plan TRAINS coinciding with the departure and
overactive nocturnal life in such areas. tight schedules relying on the chopper The most useful railways stations are arrival of major trains, but these are
Villages are extremely safe, though. services during your return journey, Naharlagun (near the capital Itanagar), easier to reach from Naharlagun
Dress code: moderately modest. when you have a flight already booked Silapathar, Jonai, Harmuti Jn. and railway station to Itanagar/Naharlagun
travel essentials

travel essentials
that you absolutely don’t want to miss. Murkingselek (all on the same line in town than the other way around.
GETTING THERE AND In our experience, here’s the smart way Assam) on one end; and Tinsukia and These ‘feeder service’ buses leave
AROUND to use the choppers: Book your trip Dibruhgarh (Assam). Guwahati in downtown very shortly after the arrival
into Arunachal from Guwahati or Assam is also a useful interchange of each train, so get off the train
AIRPORTS AND HELICOPTERS Mohanbari airport and some part of station, since it has a major airport and quickly if you need to catch them.
The airports are Pasighat (weekly the onward journey by chopper, along connects Naharlagun, Tinsukia and Taxis are generally available at the
flights from Kolkata), Tezu (to be fully with a ‘Plan B’ road plan, in case the Dibrugarh to most parts of India. Be railway station as well.
functional soon), Guwahati chopper is cancelled; but be sure to warned that train travel to Arunachal
(International, Assam), Dibrugarh/ plan your return trip back to the Pradesh is for strictly long haulers; The LOCAL PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Mohanbari (Domestic, Assam - useful airport entirely by road to be on the fastest train from Delhi to Itanagar, for There’s a whole biodiversity in these
for southern and eastern Arunachal), safe side. During rainy or stormy example takes close to 36 hours. category, ranging from the cheaper
Lilabari (Domestic, Assam - closest to weather, avoid chopper rides involving Having said this, the trains on this state-run APST state buses, to private
Itanagar), Tezpur (Assam, domestic, higher altitude mountains altogether. route are cleaner and better bus operators such as Network, and
better for Western Arunachal). Regular Regular, comfortable, pay-per-seat maintained than the average Indian budget-friendly ‘Line Sumos,’ which
helicopter services (operated by share taxis ply between Guwahati standard, especially the Rajdhani and are basically cramped share SUV taxis
SkyOne) connect Mohanbari/Dibrugarh Airport and Itanagar, and reasonably intercity express trains from plying between different towns and
and Itanagar (via its twin city priced air conditioned buses leave Naharlagun, and reservations aren’t villages, with a medley of Bollywood
Naharlagun) to a few headquarters in every half hour or so between difficult to get, even last minute. songs sometimes playing nonstop

140 141
 along the route. Line taxis penetrate basically share-taxis that ply along the to adventurous, off-roader style almost unheard of in these parts; so if
deeper into Arunachal than the other long arterial road covering the length rollercoaster experiences. Don’t be you’re planning on cycling, either get

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

modes, and reach fast as well. Booking of both Itanagar and Naharlagun, and fooled by linear distances between your own, rent a bike from Assam or
more than one seat per traveller (2 or on to Doimukh and the Banderdewa two points the map — negotiating get your tour operator to make the
3 seats) could still work out cheaper Gate, forming the border with Assam. rough, zigzaggy mountain roads can arrangements.
than hiring your own car, let you At night, even these services stop, and account for biggest component of
control the music (!) and can often be the rickshaws nearly triple their rates. travel time in Arunachal, especially if ATMs, cash, Communication, Internet:
a more acceptable compromise Even later into the night (post 9pm) you’re planning several regions of this Be sure to stock up on cash, because
between cost and comfort when you you will often find no transport at all, large state on the same trip. It’s always in many interior places you’d want to
don’t have your own car. Or better yet, at any price! So it’s best to have a car a good idea to enquire not just about visit, credit card payment isn’t
if travelling in a big group, hire the in Itanagar, especially if you plan to distances, but also road conditions, possible, and ATMs are also known to
whole vehicle by booking all 10 seats, return to your room late at night. while charting out your routes. It rains run out of cash intermittently. Most
which can oddly still work out cheaper Towns like Roing in Lower Dibang here for nearly nine months of the urban and semi-urban and village
travel essentials

travel essentials
than ‘hiring a car.’ Safety-wise, this can Valley , however have more reasonably year, so this is worth keeping in mind, areas have cellphone coverage, but
be a particularly smart choice on tricky priced and reliable auto-rickshaws, so especially if you’re cycling or the operator may vary, so carrying dual
routes and difficult mountain roads, local public transport varies greatly motorbiking. Road conditions are best SIM phones or multiple phones is
where the Line Sumo driver who does from town to town. By and large, it’s in the dry season (Oct-Feb), when road advisable if connectivity is vital during
a certain route daily would know the best to have your own vehicle, should travel times are a lot faster. your stay. You can be sure however,
terrain better than someone who’s less you choose to travel without an Regular Indian driving licenses are that many of the most beautiful forests
familiar with the place. Most towns operator who arranges everything for valid in Arunachal, but try and avoid in Arunachal will not have mobile
have a bazaar area, where you’ll find you. Whatever the case, rush hour negotiating rough mountain roads in coverage, so prepare accordingly. For
the ‘counter’ where you can enquire traffic in Itanagar is real, and you want foggy or stormy weather at night; in internet, you’ll have to depend on
about bus and Line taxi services, and to avoid being in it. some instances travel on this routes your cellphone and hotspots most of
even hire private cars. Bookings can may be officially closed during this the time. A power bank can also be
subsequently happen even over the ROAD TRAVEL time to ensure that mishaps are handy during power cuts, especially in
phone, and payment is strictly cash Driving into Arunachal always involves avoided; it’s safest to either wait till the remote areas. India Post’s ‘Speed Post’
only. crossing Assam, where the roads are light or weather clears up, or get a service interestingly works better in
much better, but once you enter hilly person who’s familiar with the area to Arunachal Pradesh than most parts of
Itanagar town has expensive three- terrain, the story changes. Mountain drive. Arunachal Pradesh may be a India, and can be useful in smaller
wheeler ‘auto-rickshaws’ and cheap road conditions in Arunachal can vary mountain biking paradise, but towns and villages, where private
‘Trackers’ and ‘Tempos,’ which are from buttery smooth and comfortable spontaneously renting bicycles is courier companies don’t operate.

142 143
 PERMITS AND BORDERS community-managed or private 3. Office of Deputy Resident villages and towns, and above that the
property, so avoid fishing, harvesting Commissioner, Arunachal Bhawan, Divisional Commissioner (DC). It helps

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

Arunachal Pradesh lies on India’s from orchards or farms excessive Kolkata and Guwahati. to decide on the districts you are likely
border with Bhutan, China/Tibet and foraging without permission. In the 4. Department of Home, Government to visit while planning your trip itself,
Myanmar, but for the moment, tourists Nocte and Wancho tribal villages of of Arunachal Pradesh, Itanagar. because the ILP is generally issued only
aren’t allowed to cross over into these Tirap and Longding, it’s generally a 5. Department of Tourism, a few districts at a time, and often not
countries from Arunachal via these good idea as an outsider to meet the Government of Arunachal Pradesh, valid if you cross over to another
borders, either with or without the local king or chief as a courtesy visit, Itanagar. district which isn’t on your ILP, making
relevant visas. Indians and Myanmar and in his absence, the village spontaneous travel complicated for
citizens are occasionally allowed to ‘Gambura.’ In other tribes, having any PAPs aren’t issued to tourists in certain first-timers. To renew, extend your ILP
cross the Pangsau Pass near local contact from the village will do. sensitive border areas such as some or add a different district on your pass,
Nampong, in Changlang District for a These meetings can be useful parts of Changlang, Tirap, Longding if you don’t choose the online route for
day, but lately, this passage has been icebreakers and set the tone for some districts. Check if where you want to whatever reason (such as temporarily
travel essentials

travel essentials
opened to the general public good interactions. travel in Arunachal is a no-go zone for not having internet or electricity), you’d
somewhat less consistently. tourists. Researchers, scientists, etc need to submit a written application to
Travel Permits for Foreign might be able to travel to these parts, the local DC or ADC. These offices are
Entering reserve forest areas and Travellers however in special cases, provided they of course, closed on public holidays.
militarily or politically sensitive Foreign tourists in groups of 2 or have received a local invitation and Keep passport-sized photographs and
border areas might require special more (single for travel to Tawang have proper projects in these places. photocopies of your ID handy
permission from the concerned and Ziro) need to apply for a
authorities, such as the local Forest Protected Areas Permit (PAP), which Travel Permits for IndianTravellers Apply for ILPs online here:
Range office, army authorities, DC, costs US$30 (valid for 30 days). You’d Though an Inner Line Permit (ILP) is [Link]
ADC, etc. In general, additional need to apply for these through local mandatory for Indian citizens to enter
permissions from local authorities are tour operators. Arunachal Pradesh, getting it is a Hardcopy ILP applications are also
required for sport angling or river simpler process than it is for foreigners, received and issued by the
rafting, which your tour operator PAP is issued from the following offices and with fewer restricted areas. Every following offices
will manage. Foreigners aren’t allowed to foreign travellers: district in Arunachal Pradesh has a 1. Delhi
to enter certain border areas of 1. Ministry of Home Affairs, similar administrative structure. Above The Resident Commissioner, Govt. of
Arunachal Pradesh. Unlike in other Government of India, New Delhi the village and local authorities are Arunachal Pradesh,Kautilya Marg,
parts of India, most forests and water 2. Office of Resident Commissioner, Circle Officers, Additional Divisional Chanakyapuri, New Delhi.
bodies in tribal areas are either Arunachal Bhawan, New Delhi Commissioners (ADC) in the bigger Tel: 011-23013915

144 145
 2. Kolkata nagar, Tezpur,Assam - 03712-260173 International Airport AIRLINE OFFICES
The Deputy Resident Commissioner, Tel 03712-260173, 260141 Airport Director Tel 0361-2841909 AIR INDIA

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, CE-109, Cell 09435521735 W [Link] Toll Free 18602331407 W [Link]
Sector-1, Salt Lake City, Kolkata. 6. Dibrugarh AIRLINE OFFICES
Tel 033-23341243, 23589865 The Deputy Resident Commissioner, AIR INDIA INDIGO
Cell 09830822512 Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, Toll Free 18602331407 W [Link] Tel: 0124-6173838
3. Guwahati Mohanbari, Dibrugarh, Assam Cell 09910383838
The Deputy Resident Commissioner, Tel 0373- 2382560/2382738. ALLIANCE AIR W [Link]
Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, GS Road 7. From the office of all the Deputy Toll Free 18602331407
Rukminigaon opposite Manasa Mandir, Commissioners of 25 Districts of W [Link]/alliance-air SPICEJET
Dispur, Guwahati the state. Cell 09871803333
Tel 0361-2229506 GO AIR W [Link]
Cell 7086026788 PERMITS ON ARRIVAL Customer Care: 022-62732111
travel essentials

travel essentials
4. Shillong Toll Free: 18602100999 W [Link] LILABARI AIRPORT
The Deputy Resident Commissioner, Tourist ILP facilitation centres are Origin Bagdogra, Delhi, Kolkata North Lakhimpur, Assam
Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, at the following places: W [Link]
Meghalaya, Shilllong. Tel 0364- 1. Naharlagun railway station INDIGO AIRLINE OFFICES
2224247, 2506470 2. Gumto railway station Tel: 0124-6173838 Cell 09910383838 ALLIANCE AIR
5. Tezpur 3. Guwahati Asom Paryatan Bhawan near W [Link] Toll Free 18602331407
The Deputy Resident Commissioner, Nepali Mandir and Guwahati Origin Agartala, Amritsar, Bagdogra, W [Link]/alliance-air
Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Parvati LGBI Airport. Bengaluru, Bhubaneswar, Chennai,
Delhi, Hyderabad, Imphal, Kochi, SPICEJET
Kolkata, Mumbai, Varanasi Cell 09871803333, 09654003333
transport directory W [Link]
AIR TEZU AIRPORT has been inaugurated, VISTARA Origin Kolkata
IN ARUNACHAL but at the time of going to press is not Cell 09289228888 W [Link]
AIRLINE OFFICES up and running as yet. TEZPUR AIRPORT
Alliance Air DIBRUGARH AIRPORT Haleswar Dist-Sonitpur,
Toll Free 18602331407 IN ASSAM Mohanbari, Assam Tezpur, Assam
W [Link] LOKPRIYA GOPINATH Airport Director Tel 0373-2382755 Airport Director Tel 03712-258441
Origin Guwahati BORDOLOI/ Guwahati W [Link] W [Link]

146 147
 AIRLINE OFFICES Assam and New Delhi. Trains serving Kolkata-Silghat Town Kaziranga Express, connected to Arunachal Pradesh by
ALLIANCE AIR this station include the Naharlagun- Mumbai LLT-Guwahati Express, etc. It Naharlagun-Guwahati Donyi Polo

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

Toll Free 18602331407 Guwahati Donyi Polo Express, is connected to Arunachal Pradesh by Express, Arunachal AC SF Express.
W [Link]/alliance-air Naharlagun-Guwahati Shatabdi Express, the Naharlagun-Guwahati Shatabdi
Tinsukia Intercity Express, and Arunachal Express, Tinsukia Intercity Express and TEZPUR RAILWAY STATION
HELICOPTER SERVICE AC SF Express (bi-weekly) which con- Arunachal AC SF Express. Tezpur Railway Station falls under the
W [Link] nects Delhi, UP, Bihar, West Bengal and Rangiya Division. Trains serving this
Guwahati Ticket Counter Assam to Arunachal Pradesh. HARMUTI JUNCTION station are Alipurduar Jn-Silghat Town
Cell 09085738939 Harmuti Junction is connected to Rajya Rani Express, Kolkata-Silghat
Naharlagun Ticket Counter IN ASSAM served major metros and Town Kaziranga Express etc. It is
Cell 09436291907 DIBRUGARH RAILWAY STATION cities by Arunachal Express. connected to Arunachal Pradesh by
SECTORS: Dibrugarh Railway Station is well Other trains connecting Arunachal Guwahati-Naharlagun Shatabdi Express,
Guwahati -Naharlagun connected to Delhi, Amritsar, Pradesh are Naharlagun-Guwahati Guwahati-Naharlagun Donyi-Polo
travel essentials

travel essentials
Guwahati-Tawang Chandigarh, Bengaluru, Kolkata, Uttar Shatabdi Express, Naharlagun-Tinsukia Express, Arunachal AC SF Express.
Naharlagun-Pasighat Pradesh etc. Major trains serving this Intercity Express and Naharlagun-
Pasighat-Along station are Avadh Assam Express, Guwahati Donyi Polo Express. TINSUKIA JUNCTION
Naharlagun-Mechuka Dibrugarh-Amritsar Weekly Express, Tinsukia Junction is connected to
Dibrugarh-Chandigarh Weekly Express, NORTH LAKHIMPUR RAILWAY Dibrugarh, Guwahati by Ledo-
RAIL Dibrugarh-Kolkata Weekly SF Express STATION Guwahati Intercity Express, Tinsukia-
Enquiry 139 and Dibrugarh-New Delhi Rajdhani North Lakhimpur Railway Station is Jorhat Town Passenger, etc. It is
W [Link] Express. It is connected to Arunachal connected to Arunachal Pradesh by the connected to Arunachal Pradesh by
[Link] Pradesh by the Naharlagun- Tinsukia Naharlagun – Tinsukia Intercity Express. Naharlagun-Tinsukia Intercity Express.
Intercity Express.
IN ARUNACHAL RANGIYA JUNCTION Road
BHALUKPONG RAILWAY STATION GUWAHATI JUNCTION Rangiya Junction is a major railway BUS
Bhalukpong Railway Station is Guwahati Junction is a major railway station connecting Assam to major Aalo (SS) Cell 09436058188
connected to Assam by the station connecting Assam to other cities in India and Arunachal Pradesh. Bomdila (SS) Cell 09402476020
Bhalukpong-Dekargoan Passenger. parts of the country. Major trains Trains serving this station are Kanchen- Pasighat (SS) Cell 09612453200
serving this station junga Express, Avadh Assam Express, Itanagar (SS/AS) Cell 09774034571
NAHARLAGUN RAILWAY STATION are Anand Vihar -Agartala Rajdhani North East Express, Mumbai LLT Roing (SS) Cell 09436222387
Naharlagun Railway Station connects Express, Bikaner-Guwahati Express, Kamakhya AC Express, etc. It is Tawang (SS) Cell 09436836087

148 149
 TOURIST/ wildlife OFFICES
Information Information & Booking
adventure holidays

Tourist Offices
Arunachal Tourism W [Link]

ITANAGAR Mandir, Dispur, Assam

Department of Tourism Tel 0361-2229506 Cell 7086026788
Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, Itanagar
Cell 08787619774 (Director of Tourism) NEW DELHI
Department of Tourism
GUWAHATI Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh
tourist/ wildlife offices

Department of Tourism Arunachal Bhawan, Kautilya Marg,

Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Chanakyapuri, New Delhi
GS Road, Rukmani Village, Opp Mansa Tel 011-23013915, 23013956

wildlife Offices

Daying Erring Wildlife Sanctuary Pakke Tiger Resrve

Pasighat Seijosa Wildlife Range
Cell 09862624766 (DFO), East Kameng
09436621222 (RO) Cell 08811952541 (RFO),
09436042859 (DFO)
Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary Cell 09436093632
Shergaon Forest Division Tel 03778-200016
Tel 03782-232249 Cell 09436246192
Talle Wildlife Sanctuary
Namdapha National Park Range Forest Offier
Field Director, Lower Subansiri
Miao, Changlang Dist Hapoli
Cell 09436835658 Cell 09436040268 (RO), 09436047092

150
 Tour OPERATORS

adventure holidays
BOMDILA STD 03782 Arunachal Pradesh
Himalayan Holidays Guwahati Branch House No 149 (1st
Location ABC Bldng. Main Market, Floor), Kolnadhara Cell 07002412384
Bomdila Tel 3782-222017 Cell 094360
45063 W [Link] NAHARLAGUN
Services Car rental, tour packages, Ravi Travel & Tour Inc
transportation, accommodations, wildlife Location A Sector, Naharlagun (Near
tours, customised tours, forex, ticketing, Old Cinema Hall), Dist Papumpare
passport n visa, all permits Destinations Cell 08257894003-04 Services Hotel/
All North-Eastern States Air/Rail bookings
Tip They have discontinued Car rentals

tour operators
ITANAGAR STD 0360
Duyu Tours & Travels Xcell
Location Vivek Vihar, College Road, Location Hafizan Complex, Ulubari,
Itanagar Tel 0360-216450, 218056 Opp Volvo Point, GS Road, Guwahati
Cell 09436044905 W arunachaltours. Cell 09854121140 W [Link]
com Services Car rental, tour Services Car rental, tour packages,
packages, customised tours, accommodations Destinations
transportation, accommodations Arunachal Pradesh, Assam
Destinations All North East
PASIGHAT STD 0368
Kaziranga Tours Donyi Hango Tours
Address Kadambari Complex (Gr Flr), – Rafting / Trekking
Thana Charall Tel 2325969 Location Tebo Village, East Siang,
Cell 09435530345, 09401343501 NH 52, Pasighat Tel 222324
W [Link] Services Cell 09436043393 W arunachal
Customised tours, wildlife tours, [Link] Services Tour
trekking Destinations All of packages, trekking, rafting, hotel

151
 accommodations, transportation, 09436875102, 09366709589, Mishmi Hills Camp Roing E-Mail:: seedasociety@[Link]/
arrange permit 08974299357 Services Guesthouse that also arranges nature minompertin@[Link]

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

Car rental, Adventure Tour and culture tours in Dibang Valley,

ROING STD 03803 Packages for all NE state, Lower Dibang Valley Eagle Nest Birding – Eagle Nest
The Mishmi Hills Trekking Co. customised tours, accommodations, Contact: Jibi Pulu 09862856981 Specialises in: Birding tours all over
Location 2 kms from Roing Cell transportation Arunachal Pradesh
Ravi Mekola Contact: Gaurav Kataria
Wildlife and bird tours in Dibang Valley 9999030436, info@eaglenest
Contact: 9774748828, 9402457180 [Link]
Adventure tour operators
Help Tourism Naja and Wild India
Abor Country Travels The Mishmi Hills Trekking Specialises in: Rural Tourism, Expeditions

adventure tour operators

adventure tour operators

Expedition, Itanagar Company - Roing/Anini Homestays, Nature Lodges, Nature Specialises in: Reptile, snake and
Specialises in: Adventure, Specialises in: Hiking, culture, Camping, Nature expeditions, Birding, microfauna trips and workshops
cultural heritage Tours, camping, adventure, camping, esp. in Dibang Butterfly tours, Wildlife treks, and volunteering, structured fauna
angling, rafting, high altitude flower Valley, Lower Dibang Valley and ‘Biodivinity journeys’ expeditions in Arunachal Pradesh.
tours Eastern Arunachal Contact: Raj Basu +91-9434046892 Contact: Soham Mukherjee
Contact: Oken Tayeng Contact: Tine Mena E-mail: info@[Link] +91-9909906618
+91-360-2292969, 9436053870, +91-9436875102, +91-8974299357 W [Link] and E-mail: info@[Link]
9436860903 Fb Page: [Link] (Under construction) www. W [Link]@[Link]
Skype: Abor Country MishmiHillsTrekkingCompany/ [Link]
E-Mail: aborcountry@[Link], Namdapha tours and treks
aborcountry@[Link] . Mishmi Hills Resort & Hotels SEED (Society for Education Miao, Changlang
private Limited – Roing and Environmental Specialises in: Treks, tours, safaris
Dibang Adventure - Anini/Roing Resort in Roing that arranges tours in Development) - Miao and activities in Namdapha Tiger
Specialises in: trekking, wildlife, Dibang and Lower Dibang Valley Specialises in: Eco camps, Nature reserve and Changlang district
culture, angling, safaris, adventure in Contact: 09436836763, Conservation through “nature walks & Contact: Phupla Singpho
Dibang Valley, Lower Dibang Valley or proprietor Rezina Mihu learn” at Miao/Namdapha/Roing/Upper +91-9436228763
Contact Adiju Rondo +919402606309, +919862447610 Siang – this is a nonprofit organisation +91-9863288092, 03807-222296,
+918794120523 Fb Page: [Link] Contact: Minom Pertin +91-3807-222296 (for outside India)
E-Mail: rondoadiju@[Link] ExploreMishmiHills/ 918974159612/+919436252577 E-mail: phupla@[Link]

152 153
 W [Link] West Kameng culture tours between brahmaputratours@[Link]
[Link]/ Contact: 9435271651, 9954861743 Menchukha and Tato [Link]

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

Contact: Tsawang Chukla Donyi Hango Tours Pasighat

Camp Namdapha Holidays - Village Holiday Tours & 9402224350 +91 9402224350 Specialises in: Pro rafting and angling,
Namsai/ Kohima/ Shillong/ travels - Khonsa, Tirap dist. +91 7005737596 and Central Arunachal, Buddhist trails,
Tura/Itanagar Specialises in: village to village Gebu Sona +91 9436074877, riverside camping, trekking
Specialises in: Tribal gourmet tours, treks, cultural tours, [Link] Eastern +91 940299666 Contact: Nino Dai, Yane Dai 0368
trekking, flower tours, culture Arunachal - Tirap, Changlang, E-Mail: chukla12wang@[Link], 2224243, 9436043393
Contact: Chau Enseng Mantow Longding, etc info@[Link], E-Mail: yane_dai@[Link]
8974643450 Contact: Khunwang Tangjang menchukhatravels@[Link] W [Link]
E-mail: ensengmantow@[Link] +91-8118951427 W [Link]
E-mail: villageholidaytours@[Link] M/S Arunachal Discover Paradise

adventure tour operators

adventure tour operators

North by Northeast - Tezpur Himalayan Holidays, Bomdila Tours, Naharlagun

Specialises in: Cycling, motorbike, Wildwildeast - Roing Lower Specialises in: culture, hiking, angling Specialises in: Paragliding,
ethno-cultural tours, wildlife, Dibang Valley in Western Arunachal parasailing, etc, esp. around East
overland journeys in Arunachal Specialises in: Tribal ethno-cultural Contact Tsering Wange, Kameng and Seppa
Contact Roheen Browne festival tours, angling, +91 3782-222017/222216/223818, Contact: Vijay Sonam +91
+91-9940416065 off-roading 9436045063/9436222905 9089722446/9436041860,
E-mail: info@[Link] Contact: Tajom Tayeng 9402257638 (Itanagar:) fax: 0360-2246531
W [Link] 7002031852, 9862885645 Tawang: 9436248216 E-mail: arunachaldiscovertours@ymail.
E mail: tajomtayeng@[Link] E-Mail: himalayan-holidays@[Link] com/vsonam9@[Link]
Kipepeo - Mumbai/Northeast India W [Link] W [Link]
Specialises in: Cultural tours, Tajom Tyeng - Roing Tawang Tour and Travels Tawang/Delhi
road trips, hikes Contact: Tajom Tyeng +91-98628 Brahmaputra Tours, Ziro Contact: Lobsang Phuntsok (Tawang)
Contact: Piran Elavia +91-9930002412 85645, +91-9436436010, Specialises in: Cultural tours, +91 8826888897, 9818336220
E-mail: info@[Link] +91-7002031852 butterflies, orchids and hiking, Contact Delhi: - +91-8826888897,
W [Link] E-mail: tajomtayeng@[Link] Talle Valley, Ziro 9818336220
Contact: Koj Mama 03788- E-mail: - tawangtravel@[Link]
Binanda Hatiborah M/s Menchukha Tours & Travels 224905/2241931, W - [Link]
Specialises in: Birding and wildlife ours Menchukha/ Itanagar 9436634496/8575248013 Tribal Adventure Tours Naharlagun
in Pakke, Eaglenest, Tawang, Specialises in: Trekking, camping, E-Mail: kojmama@[Link]; E-Mail:- tribaladventuretours@gmail.

154 155
 com; johnpanye3@[Link] Central Arunachal 08974141614 Rooms 4 Facilities Kitchen, food on
Contact: John Panye +91 9436252013; Contact: Gandhi Darang Tariff `600-1,000 Facilities request, caretaker Reservations

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

+91 08414080717, +91 360 2247422 0360-2214008 Restaurant, attached bath Tel 03778-200016
+91 9615432244, +91 8131872400, Cell 09436042859 (DFO)
M/S Ane Siang Tours & +91 9402617938 Namdapha Jungle Camp
Expeditions Itanagar E-mail: - anesiang2013@[Link] Location Miao, 7 km from NP from Upper Dekoroi Rest House
Specialises in: rafting, angling, W [Link] entry gate Cell 09436228763, Location Inside the Forest, 12 kms
08974141614, 08257994436 from West Bank Forest Rest House
Rooms 4 Tariff `1,500; TE Facilities Cell 09436093632 (Range Officer)
Kitchen, dining area, local tribal food on Rooms 4 Tariff `400 Facilities
FOREST RESTHOUSES request, guides, trekking, bird Kitchen, food on request, caretaker
watching, butterfly spotting, Reservations Tel 03778-200016
DAYING ERRING WILDLIFE SANCTUARY EAGLENEST WILDLIFE SANCTUARY tribal visit Cell 09436042859
Forest Rest House Ramalingam
Location Near Asha Diagnostic Location Ramalingam, PO Tenga, PAKKE TIGER RESERVE West Bank Forest Rest House
Centre, Town Area, Pasighat Singchung, Shergaon Forest Division, Forest Inspection Bunglow Location Inside the Forest,

frh
frh

Cell 09436621222 (RO), Cell West Kameng Tel 03782-232249 Cell Location Inside the Forest, adjacent Close to the Gate Cell 09436093632
09862624766 (DFO), Rooms 4 09436246192 (DFO) Rooms 2 Tariff `500 to West Bank Forest Rest (Range Officer) Rooms 4 Tariff `400
Tariff `400-1,200 Facilities Facilities Kitchen, cook, dining hall House Cell 09436093632 (RO) Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen,
Kitchen, cook, food on request, Rooms 2, dorms 1 (6 bedded) food on request, caretaker, room
attached bath MOULING NATIONAL PARK Tariff `400, dorm bed `100 service, attached bath For Reservations
Forest Rest House Facilities Kitchen, caretaker, room DFO Tel 03778-200016 Cell
Forest Rest House Jeepghat Location Ramsing Wildlife Range, service, attached bath 09436042859
Location Jeepghat Mouling Wildlife Division, Jengging Cell Reservations Tel 03778-200016
Cell 09862624766 (DFO) Rooms 4 09436040109 (DFO) Rooms 4 Tariff Cell 09436042859 Talley Wildlife Sanctuary
(single bedded) Tariff `250-300 `450-550 Facilities Kitchen, cook, dining Pange Camp
(approx.) Facilities Kitchen, cook, hall, food on request, attached bath Khari Forest Rest House Location Lower Subansiri, Hapoli Tel
food on request, attached bath, Location Inside the Forest, 12 kms 03788-224277 Cell 09436040268
Tip Reached by crossing the NAMDAPHA NATIONAL PARK (DEBAN) from West Bank Forest Rest (RFO), 09436047092 (DFO) Rooms 2
Siang River by forest department Eco Tourist Forest Guest House House Cell 09436093632 (RO) Tariff `200 Facilities Kitchen, cook,
boats Location Miao Cell 09436228763, Rooms 4 Tariff `400 Credit Cards NA food on request, attached bath

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 Homestays Rooms 2 `1,000 Facilities Kitchen, Nana Homestay 09733000442 W [Link]
BHALUKPONG dining hall, parking, geyser, heater Location Village Takilalung, Pasighat Rooms 4, tents 6 Tariff `5,000; TE

adventure holidays
adventure holidays

Bham Homestay Cell 07085858003 Rooms 2 Tariff with all meals, tents `3,500; TE with all
Location Thembang Village, Dirang NAMSAI `1,800 per person, with two meals meals Facilities Restaurant, laundry,
Cell 08729930222, 09436635835 Greenview Homestay Facilities Kitchen, common bath room service, attached bath, TV
Rooms 2 Tariff `700 Facilities Location behind Higher Secondary,
Kitchen, dining hall, room service, Namsai Cell 09436637187 Rooms 2 Narmi Homestay Zaktum Notko – Artist Camp
parking, geyser, heater, common bath Tariff `3,000 with all meals Facilities Location Runne Village, East Siang Location Lower Dibang Valley,
Kitchen, vehicle for sightseeing Cell 09862911689 Rooms 2 Tariff Bomjir, 17km from Roing Cell
Dirkhipa Homestay `1,600 per person, with two meals 08258829810, 09402054057 Rooms 6
Location Thembang Village, Dirang Hewli Homestay Facilities Kitchen, dining hall, room cottages Tariff `2,500-3,500 Facilities
Cell 08729930222, 09436635835 Location Behind Buddhist Monastery, service, common bath Kitchen, food on request, dining hall,
Room 2 Tariff `700 Facilities Kitchen, Namsai Cell 09862708997, 094360 attached bath
dining hall, geyser, attached bath 49977 Rooms 3 Tariff `2,500 with two Takar Homestay Tip Also called Dambuk Homestay
meals Facilities Kitchen, traditional Location Tebo Village, East Siang, NH
Khaje Homestay cuisine, vehicles for sightseeing 52 Tel 222324 Cell 09436043393, TAWANG STD 03794
Location Thembang Village, Dirang 07005586217 Rooms 4 Tariff `2,800- Jambey Villa Home
Cell 08729930222, 09436635835 Sangtini Homestay 3,000 Facilities Kitchen, dining room Location Urgelling (4 kms) Cell
homestays

homestays
Rooms 3 Tariff `1,000 Facilities Location Behind Buddhist Monastery, 08414987117, 09436045988 Rooms 6
Kitchen, dining hall, room service, Namsai Cell 08794089075, 093666 Pineapple Homestay Tariff `1,800-3,000 Facilities Kitchen,
parking, geyser, heater, attached bath 04048 Rooms 2 Tariff `2,500-3,000 Location Village Napit, Pasighat, East food on request, dining hall, geyser,
Facilities Kitchen, parking, pic n drop, Siang Cell 09862571827 heater, attached bath
Yangdol Homestay common bath
Location Jigaon Village, Rupa, West Tuniyang Homestay Lemberdung Home Stay
Kameng Cell 09402071593, Pasighat Location Village Takilalung, Pasighat Location 8 km from Tawang Market
09402928011 Rooms 2 Tariff `1,000 Ane Gumin Homestay Cell 09436051009 Rooms 3 Tariff
Facilities Kitchen, dining hall, room Location Tigra Mirbu, Pasighat, East ALONG STD 03783 `1,500-2,000 Facilities Kitchen, food
service, geyser, heater, attached bath Siang Cell 07005059493, 087319 Ori Home Stay on request, dining hall, geyser, heaters,
91784 Rooms 2 Tariff `1,600 per Location Ori Village Cell 076389 attached bath
Yeshi Homestay person, with two meals Facilities 33767, 084248 02002 Rooms 8 Tariff
Location Tipi Village, Near Kameng Kitchen, dining hall, common bath `1,500 per person, with all meals ZIRO STD 03788
River Cell 08415850764, 08731978022 Facilities Kitchen, local guide, dining Ngunu Ziro
Rooms 3 Tariff `1,300-1,600 Facili- K Gumin Homestay hall, room service, attached bath Location Siro Village, Ziro (3 kms from
ties Kitchen, dining hall, room service Location Village Mebo, Romdum Cell main Ziro Town) Cell 09436047891,
09436053509, 08729989123 Rooms 2 ROING STD 03803 09856209494 Rooms 2 Tariff `1,200-
Yul Pema Chhen Homestay Tariff `1,600 per person, with two Dibang Valley Jungle Camp 2,000 per person, with two meals
Location Thembang Village, Dirang meals Facilities Kitchen, dining hall, Location 12 km to Miuliati, Lower Facilities Kitchen, dining hall, parking.
Cell 08729930222, 09436635835 common bath Dibang Valley Tel 0353-2433683 Cell geyser, heater, attached bath

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 Photo Credits
Front Cover
AHTUSHI DESHPANDE
A 20-ft wave on a Class IV rapid

Inside the Book

AHTUSHI DESHPANDE
Page 4, Middle: rafting through a rapid
Page 126,

arjun kamdar
Page 78–79: A sunbird sitting on a tree branch

NINO DAI
Page 5, Left: Anglers on the Subansiri
Page 122: White sand beach camping

Omar Khan
Page 110–111: A panoramic view of Daying Ering Wildlife Sanctuary

Sanjiv valsan
Page 4 (Top), 130–131 & 132: Paragliding is a great way to explore Arunachal Pradesh
Page 5 (Top), 18–19 & 52: A trekker crossing the bridge on the Pasang Sonam Tso Trek
in Mechuka
Page 5, Middle: Birdwatchers in Namdapha Tiger Reserve
Page 72: Cyclists taking rest on the way Italin to Anini

Shutterstock
Page 4, Bottom: Black-crested bulbul

Courtesy Images
ARUNACHAL PRADESH TOURISM
Page 114–115: Rafting in the mighty Siang River
Spokehub Cycling
Page 5, Bottom: Cycling in Kibithu

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