Technical Sketch
Woven, Left Rounded Patch Pocket, Short Sleeves, Short Collar, No cuffs
Sewing Instructions
Sewing Button Down Placket
- Mark foldlines based on notches as shown in picture number 1 (on the wrong side of the
garment).
- Fold the left and right side along the first notch and press.
- Fold Right piece along second notch and press, then edgestitch as shown on the picture
number 3.
- Fold Left piece along second and third notch leaving raw edge inside as shown in picture
number 4, press and edgestitch.
- Make buttonholes on Left Front at markings and sew buttons to the Right Front at markings.
Note:
Make buttonholes and sew buttons after finishing all steps of sewing.
Sewing Patch Pocket
- Stitch curved edges of the pocket 3/8" (1 cm) from the raw edge, using long machine stitches
(pic. 1).
- Turn upper edge to outside along the foldline, then stitch the ends. Trim (pic. 2).
- Turn upper edge of the pocket to inside, turning in seam allowances on remaining edges. Pull
the threads to ease in fullness on the curves, then press (pic. 3).
- Topstitch pocket 1" (2.5 cm) from the upper edge (pic. 4).
- Pin pocket to the garment (Left Front) according to the marking, then topstitch side and lower
edges (pic. 5).
Sewing Horizontal Yoke Plain
- Pin the Yoke (right sides together), sandwiching the back shirt piece between the yokes. Match
the notches, then stitch (pic 1.)
- Trim and clip the seam allowances as shown (pic. 2).
- Match the right and left Front shirt pieces at the shoulders of the Yoke and stitch (pic. 3).
- Press the Yoke pieces up (pic. 4) and topstitch the Back Yoke seam (pic. 5).
- Press the Front Yoke seams toward the Yoke. Press under the seam allowance of the top Yoke
and pin. Baste the yoke over the stitchline of the Front Yoke seam. Edgestitch the top layer of the
Yoke to the garment (pic. 6).
Setting the Sleeves
- With right sides together, pin sleeve to the armhole edge, matching notches. Match the center
sleeve notch with the shoulder seam. Baste, then stitch.
- Stitch again 1/4" (6mm) away inside the seam allowance. Serge the seam. Press seam towards
the sleeve.
Sewing Side Seams and Underarms
- With right sides together, pin Front to Back at Sides, then pin sleeve edges together. Stitch in
one continuous seam from the bottom of the sleeve up to the slit notch. To reinforce the
underarm seam, stitch again along the curve. Finish the seam allowances together and press
towards back.
Sewing No Cuffs Sleeve
- Stitch 1/2" (1.3 cm) from lower edge of the sleeve. Turn in and press edge alongside stitching.
Trim close to stitching, then turn in again along trimmed edge. Stitch.
Sewing Short Collar
Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of collar pieces, following manufacturer's instructions.
- With right sides together, pin the collar sections together, matching notches, then stitch around
the outer edge of the collar. Trim corners 2 mm from stitching line to reduce thickness (pic. 1).
- Turn the collar right side out and press (pic. 2).
- Pin the collar stand section to the collar, right sides together and matching notches, then baste
(pic. 3).
- Press the lower edge of the outer collar stand section upwards to secure seam allowance (pic.
4).
- Pin the outer stand section to the collar, placing the collar between collar stands, then stitch
(pic. 5).
- Turn the collar right side out and press neatly (pic. 6).
- Pin the lower edge of the collar stand to neckline, matching notches and clipping garment neck
edge where necessary. Stitch, keeping the pressed edge free (pic. 7).
- Turn right side out, then tuck seam allowances into collar stand and press. For a clean/classic
look, stitch in the ditch along the neckline seam to connect the lower collar stand. Press. Make a
buttonhole in Left Front at marking and sew a button to the Right Front at marking (pic. 8).
Hem
- Make 5/8" (1.5 cm) narrow hem at side opening edges, tapering to nothing above the opening.
Pivot across seam allowance 1/4" (6mm) above the notch when stitching.
- Stitch 1/2" (1.3 cm) from lower edge of the garment. Turn in and press edge alongside
stitching. Trim close to stitching, then turn in again along trimmed edge. Stitch.