Chapter 10: Basic Rope Work

OBJECTIVES:

1. To know the basic techniques in Knot Tying

[Link] know the purpose of Knot tying in first aid and in

water survival

Knot tying

has always been one of those key outdoor skills that the inexperienced take for
granted. The experienced outdoorsman, however, has had enough success and failure
to know that there are right and wrong knots for certain jobs.

But first, it helps to know a few strange terms. Put it simply, a knot is some kind of
fastening or splice made by intertwining one or more ropes or some other flexible
material. After tightening a knot, it should hold on its own. A hitch is a little bit different.
It’s like a knot, but it generally involves another object like a stick, a post, a ring, or
occasionally another rope. Properly tied, hitches can hold their place, or they may be
able to slide, depending on the hitch you choose. A lashing is like a hitch, but slightly
more complex. Lashings involve the use of a rope or similar material to secure two or
more objects together. To grossly oversimplify all this, the knot is just rope fastened
together; the hitch is a rope fastened to an object; and a lashing is a rope fastening
multiple objects together.

Common Breaking Strengths of Rescue Rope: • 8mm – 3,100 lbf (Accessory Cord) •
1/2” – 9,000 lbf

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Rope Characteristics A point to remember is that the words “static” and “dynamic” are
misleading. Static means non-moving. There is no such thing as a static rope system,
for example, even steel is not considered to be static.

Low stretch and high-stretch more accurately describe and identify real world
conditions. Low Stretch (Static) Operations life safety ropes have a relatively low stretch
ratio, (usually between 10 and 20 percent till failure) due to a non-spiral constructed
core bundle. Two to five percent elongation will occur with a working load (200 lbs.).
Low stretch ropes are called “static”.

High Stretch (Dynamic) High stretch or “dynamic” ropes have a relatively high
stretch ratio, (usually between 20 and 50 percent till failure) due to a spiral constructed
core bundle. Operations utility ropes are “dynamic” high stretch.

ROPE SAFETY

• Avoid walking or standing on the rope

• Do not drag the rope. Added abrasion leads to less sheath life

• Do not leave a rope under tension for any extended period of time unless necessary

• Remove all knots as soon as possible

• If rope cleaning is needed, clean by rinsing with clean fresh water

• Dry wet rope (hang dry) before bagging

• Exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet radiation will damage the rope, keep exposure to a
minimum

• Nylon moving across nylon can melt through the stationary piece. Be careful when
running nylon over nylon, for example moving rope over stationary webbing

• Be sure to pad sharp edges

• Avoid adding twists and kinks when bagging/coiling the ropes

TYPES OF ROPE

1/2” (Low-Stretch) Static Kernmantle Rescue Rope

All operations ladder companies carry 3 bags of life safety rope. These ropes may vary
in color as well as length. Typically, most ladder companies will carry (1) 150’ and (2)
300’ life safety ropes. This is a life safety rescue rope that is rated at 9000 lbs. breaking

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strength, in slow pull tests. A rescue load is considered to be 600 lbs. In order to meet
NFPA certifications, the rope has a 15:1 safety factor (600 lbs. x 15 = 9,000 lbs.)

Accessory Cord

Guide-Slings – One of the primaries uses for 8mm Accessory Cord is the prusik loop
and the 25-30-foot guide-sling.

The guide sling is used primarily for tying a load releasing hitch; however, the guide
sling can also be used for any accessory rigging need (anchors, fall restraints, etc.).

System Prussik Loops – The short prusik loop is 57” and the long prusik loop is 71”.
They are tied (created) with a double overhand bend and are tightened down using a
compound 9:1 pulley system until 2 inches of tail remains protruding from the bend. The
strength of 8mm material is (3630 lbf) according to the manufacturer.

Utility Rope

Any rope that is not classified as “life safety” rope will fall under the category of “utility”
Utility ropes have multiple uses such as hoisting equipment, stabilizing vehicles,
medical calls, salvage, etc. They are usually made of manila, nylon or other synthetic
materials.

KNOTS, HITCHES AND BENDS

Knots must be tied, dressed (cleaned up so there are no twists, and the knot flows
correctly with the tension on the correct strand) and set (tensioned to remove any slack
in the knot).

Do not fall into the trap of “the myth of knot strength.” While it is of interest to be aware
of how strong one knot is in relation to another; it is imperative to note that knots do not
break in the field. People are not found at the bottom of a fall with a broken knot coming
from their harnesses. The criteria for knot selection are:

• The ability to tie

• The ability to inspect

• The ability to adjust

• The ability to untie

• The last is the strength of the knot

Touch Check

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Check your teammate’s knots with the “touch” method to be sure they are dressed and
set. The touch method is a tactile review of each element. If the component hasn’t been
touched by the reviewer, then it hasn’t been checked.

Dressing the Knot, Hitch, or Bend

Dressing is the process of cleaning up the knot, bend, or hitch so that the rope flows
smoothly through the many turns and bights. Setting the knot refers to putting a strain
on each leg of the knot. One theory suggests that failure to dress and set the knot,
bend, or hitch reduces its strength. However, drop tests have shown that the knot, bend,
or hitch actually ends up in a contorted configuration that has little resemblance to the
original. Without dressing and setting the knot, they are difficult to inspect, and there is
little way to determine how the resulting configuration will react once shock loaded. At
least with a dressed and set knot we have some data on their performance in a given
position of function.

KNOTS

A knot is a rope intertwined with itself, e.g. bowline, and figure 8. A bight
is a “U” shape in the rope. A loop is the rope forming a loop and
continuing on. Running end describes the end actively being tied.
Standing end describes the non-moving part.

Round Turn with Two Half Hitches

A utility knot used in many applications where a quick non-slip attachment
is required in non-life safety situations.

The Round Turn One Half Hitch Second Half

Hitch

Bowline with a Yosemite Finish

Used because of its adjustability, ease of inspection, and ability to be
untied after being loaded. The bowline must be backed-up with a
Yosemite Finish or a double overhand. The longtail bowline doesn’t
require a backup knot. The end of the bowline must be secured. The
Yosemite Finish is an easy way to tie off the bowline and is less bulky than

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a double overhand. Essentially, the tail is rewoven thought the knot until it
surfaces in parallel with the standing end.

Figure-Eight Follow Through

Double Figure Eight is used as an end knot to form a loop to connect the
rope to an anchor or harness. Generally, the Double Figure 8 is an easy
knot to tie, inspect, and untie. This is one of two tie-in knots
recommended for tie-in to a single person belay line. It may also be used
to tie off the running end of a rappel rope so the person is not able to slide
off the end of the rope.

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In-Line Figure Eight
A mid-line attachment point that can be used for rescue systems and life
safety or any place where a midline loop may be of use.

Chain Stitch with Webbing

The preferred method of storing webbing. Start with an overhand slip knot
and stitch back through the eye of the slip knot. Repeat with each
successive loop.

A hitch incorporates something within it to maintain shape, if the center

element is removed, the hitch will fall apart (e.g. Prusik and Clove Hitch

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are tied around another rope or object).
Prusik Hitch
The prussik hitch or “prussik” is formed from pre-tied 8mm accessory cord.
Operations company members should only use the three-wrap prussik.
The three wrap Prusik Hitch is for rescue loads up to 600 lbs.

Clove Hitch
It is useful to quickly tie-off the end of a rope so it will not fall out of your
reach, and still easily adjustable. Also, it is a good beginning for wrapping
and frapping. However, the clove hitch has been known to slip and untie.
It is not used as a tie-off, or in place of an anchor knot, like the Figure
Eight.

BENDS

Square Bend
While historically called a knot, this bend is used to tie two strands
together. Used primarily for non-life safety situations.

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Overhand Follow-Through Bend
Used to tie two webbing ends together to form a “runner,” tie a multipoint
anchor together, etc. Tubular webbing is slippery so leave a hand width,
or two inches of tail as a minimum. Also, because of the slippery material,
dressing and setting this bend is very important.

Double Overhand Bend

This bend is used to tie two ropes together. For the fire service, it is primarily for prusik
loops, it can also be used to tie high/low-stretch
materials together. It is preferred for use with single person loads.
Because of the tight arcs within the bend, it is very difficult to untie once
loaded.
However, if the Double Overhand Bend is used for rescue loads, a prusik
by-pass is recommended. Otherwise, you may need to cut this bend out
of the rope once it is set with a rescue load.

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Double Becket Bend
Used for joining two unequal sized diameter material together. It is easy
to tie, inspect, and untie after weighting with a rescue load. One may wish
to backup the Double Sheet Bend with Double Overhands on the two tails.

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