Introduction: You have to write on your own

Different types of Dry process for Denim Wash

Whiskering:
whiskers are one of the most important design of a used look garment. The idea of whiskers is taken
from the worn out lines and impression patterns generated by natural wearing on hips and front thigh
area. On old jeans, a number of patterns can be finding consequential to fabric, body shape of user or
sitting posture. It is also known as Cat's Whisker.[2]

Fig: Whisker on jeans

Whiskering Process:
Various methods are designed to create this impression on jeans. Such as:-

 Mostly rubber balloons are available with different pattern designs. Garments are mounted on
balloons and filled with air to get impressions of whiskers. Garment is scrubbed over pattern
carefully with sand paper on engraved pattern lines. This operation requires high skilled labor
and who can handle uniformity and sequence in whisker line. Fabric may damage during rubbing
if care is not taken. This method is famous for high quality and cost effectiveness.

Picture: Producing Wiskering Effect on Denim

 Sometimes separate patterns are made and fixed on balloons to make mustaches. These
patterns are made of thin rubber sheets and electric wires or rubber cords and pasted on
balloons for pattern lines. Thin line patterns are very easy to work in that way but it is not much
successful for broad lines.

 Engraved patterns on thick board like hard rubber sheets are widely used for whiskers
impression making. This idea is very simple to draw lines on rubber sheets and engrave them
with blade. Garment is places on sheet and scrapped on specific area to draw this impression on
garment. For its low cost patterns, it is most frequently used in small industries especially where
the production is not consistent to style.
 Fig: Machines to produce wiskering effect

 In some workshops it is done manually with the help of sharp edge rolled on fine wood sticks of
pasted on plastic material. Before starting execution, placement and pattern must be marked on
garment, this will help operator to execute the pattern right to match the aesthetics of garment.
[3]

Sand Blasting:
Sand blasting is the process of scrubbing off the garment by blowing high-speed air mixed with very fine
particles of sand. This is a very successful and most widely used process for fashion articles. When the
surface area of the garment is blasted, white cotton appears beneath the blasted area and the effect
appearing is very similar to the worn out jeans. Sand blast provides a very uniform result, which cannot
be achieved with its alternates. Its specialty is the merging effect that is blended with such a beauty that
it has no difference with natural effect.

High pressure of air produces a powerful backward thrust to operator so it is always recommended to fix
the gun in appropriate stands rather than placing it on shoulders or using it with bare hands. On some
fabrics sand blasting is not successful for it covers the characteristics of fabric. Especially in fabrics,
which are famous for slob patterns it flattens the look. Specified areas for sand blasting are front thigh,
back seat, back panel near bottom or front panel around knee. Some time full body blasting is also done
for giving a unique look to fabric. Hot spots may be designed for more real look on front knees or back
seat by intense blasting in these areas.[4]
 Picture: Sand Blasting effects on Jeans

Procedure of Sand Blasting:

 Individual garment to be processed is taken on a table.

 Air compressor is started and pressure to be maintained between 3 – 4 kg/[Link].

 Air compressor then stores air in the machine cylinder. Aluminum sand or silicon sand,
Al2(SiO4)3, is then taken in the chamber of the blasting machine.

 Sand and compressed air are then sprayed over the garments at specific points at 10o-20o angle
by hand spray pipe.

Picture: Produce Sand Blasting effect on Jeans

  Sands pass into the machine by regulating system.

 The machine comprises a blasting regulator and a hand regulator to control the amount of sand
and compressed air respectively.

 The angle of sand blowing is very important. Higher the blowing angle, higher the fading effect
and higher the risk of fabric damage.

 Fading is done on pre-marked areas.

 Sandblasting is a hazardous technique and therefore, the area should be isolated from other
working areas.

 Handling of sandblasting gun is risky therefore, operators should use safety equipments like
hand gloves, mask and gown. Production/hour/gun varies from 25 – 45 garments depending
upon the degree of fading or extent of fading to be attained.

Picture: Sand-Blasting, Air Compressor with Nozzle

 The faded garments are cleaned by shaking manually. After sandblasting, garments are washed
and the technique is being followed may be normal, bleach or bio-stone. [5]

Potassium permanganate spray (P.P Spray):

Potassium permanganate spray is done on jeans to take a bright effect on sand blast area. One
important thing about potassium permanganate spray is, this is usually a sporting process to increase
the effect of sand blast. Potassium permanganate solution is sprayed on blasted area of jeans garment
with the help of normal spray gun. This potassium permanganate spray appears pink on garment when
fresh and turns to muddy brown on drying. The garment is hanged in open to dry after potassium
permanganate spray and when the potassium permanganate turns its colors completely then it is
considered to ready for next process. It is always followed by neutralization process. Sodium Meta
bisulphate is most commonly used neutralizer. A number of products are available in market for
neutralization process like sodium Meta bisulfate selected on the bases of effect required on blasted
area.

Potassium permanganate sprays concentrations ranges from .25 gm per liter to 15.00 grams per liter
depending to required results and fabric types. Usually indigo died fabrics are treated with low
concentrations whereas Black Sulfur Fabric requires high concentrations to treat with.
 Picture: P.P effect on Jeans

Process of P.P Spray:

1. Potassium permanganate spray in best is done in specific spray booths, where rubber dummies are
installed for holding garments. Garments are mounted on the dummies and air is filled so the garment is
full fit exposed. Specific dummies are used for different sizes and styles, like for kids, men’s, trousers,
jackets, shirts etc. The booths are fitted with proper air exhaust system. This system leads the spray to
treatment room where the chemical mixed air is usually passed through the water showers. Potassium
permanganate is dissolved in water and the clean air is blown to open. Shower water is further treated
with mild quantities of neutralizer before adding to main drain. But where the potassium permanganate
spray is used in low concentrations then there is now need to treat shower water. This mild potassium
permanganate mixed water is rather useful for water reservoirs to keep the water clean and germs free.

Fig: Before pp spray and after pp spray denim

2. Garments are mounted on air-filled rubber dummies and chemical is sprayed on blasted areas. The
variables in spray process are as follows:

 Distance of spray gun to garment: Less distance will give more defined and sharp effect whereas
distant spray will result in more mild and merged effect. Distance ranges from one foot to two
and a half feet.

 Air to water ratio of gun: This is to be set very carefully. Low air pressure possibly will through
KMnO4 drops on garment resulting in bright white spots whereas high pressure will produce
very low bright effect spray effect to areas where it is not required.

 Potassium Permanganate Solution Concentration: This will control the extent of brightness.[6]
Potassium Permanganate Sponging/ Brushing:
PP Spray is being done on denim garments to achieve local abraded area to appear whiter than back
ground indigo color shade. This can be applied by sponges dipped in to PP Solution & rubbed on desired
area followed by neutralization in wet process. This process can be done in rigid after doing hand scrape
or in the middle of the wash. Doing after enzyme or bleach cycle will give more natural & white effect
that doing in rigid. There are many additives can be added in order to achieve desired intensity and look.
[7]

In usual, it is done with regular paint brushes or the brushes are modified by cutting hairs in different
shapes to produce new styles. Rather towels, sponges, straw bunches or other objects are also used to
create effects. What it is seen, is that most merging and beautiful effects are created with towel. Towel
dipped in solution are drawn over the garment very lightly. This produces random effect and looks great
with dark washes in contrast.[8]

This process is very complicated & needs highly skilled operators to execute it followed by immediate
neutralization.

Picture: P.P effects on Jeans

Procedure of P.P Sponging/ Brushing:

 Prepare Potassium Permanganate solution.(P.P 20%,water 80%).

 Take the solution in a tray or bowl.

 Take a rubber board.

 Then take a jeans trouser & place the rubber board inside the leg panel of the trouser.

 Now place the trouser with rubber board on a flat table & sponged or rubbed P.P on apparel
surface.
  Then color will faded.

 After this process wet process essential (detergent/bleach/enzyme wash).

Destroyed Denim:
One of the most popular distressing effects currently , ‘Destruction’ is an art which make denim look
unique & used. To make destruction pen type of stone tools being used in mid of wash process to apply
on desired area. It can also be achieved by cutting it thru knife the warp yarns & keep the weft yarn as is
to show white thread. Holes also can be made by cutting weft & warp yarns. These are all manual
processes & every garment will look unique & different than others.[9]

Different types of machine used for destroy the garments. Such as-

 Grinding Machine.

 Emery Cloth.

 Hacksaw Blade.

 Needle.

 Knife etc.

Picture: Destroyed Jeans

Process of Destroyed Denim:

 We can make holes in jeans by overdoing different methods. The trick is to make the holes look
natural. Grind away at the fabric slowly. Try not to localize the worn area, spread it with
diminishing wear the further we get from the intended hole.
 Picture: Process of Destroyed Jeans

 The area around the hole should be worn out as well as bleached to further blend the hole with
the surrounding fabric. "Finish" the edges with a pumice stone or sandpaper dampened in
bleach. Also dampening a sponge with bleach and applying it to the outer edges of the hole will
add to the natural worn look.

 Ripped jeans are a bit different. The rip is not necessarily from wear, and should not look the
same as a worn out hole.

 It is important that what types of look we want to see on our denim. It is recommend to use a
sharp pocket knife. Be careful, they are very sharp. Rub the blade of the knife perpendicular to
the line of the rip that we want. Continue until we create a slit, and then fray the edges,
exposing the threads that are perpendicular to the rip. Do this until the hole is the size that we
want and the edges are fuzzy. A wash and a dry will further mess up the edge. To some extent
this will control further fraying.

 To reinforce this newly created hole, turn your pants inside out and place an adequately cut
piece of fabric around it and sew it. An iron on will work as well, but the stitching, done either by
hand or with a sewing machine, will make it look much better.

 It is preferred that not too many holes, 3 to 5 should be enough. The current trend, however,
seems to be for smaller holes.[10]

The scope of denim dry process is very broad. Only innovative products will be able to open up new
markets and new horizons for denim industry. To achieve this it is essential to invest in further research
and development. Globalization has opened the door to competition at the highest level. Every industry
should now produce products that are best in terms of quality and price. Customers today have a wide
range of choices and the one who produces the best quality at a high competitive price will survive and
prosper.