ROOIBOS – THE NEW

“WHITE TEA” FOR HAIR AND SKIN CARE

BY DR JANE TIEDTKE AND DR OLAF MARKS*

Abstract shrub which is indigenous to the However it wasn’t until later in sifted and packed. Fig. 2 shows
North Western Cape of South the 1930`s that Dr. P.F. le Fras processed Rooibos tea. 4,500-
The cosmetic indus- Africa, in the area of the Nortier, a local doctor and ama- 6,000 tonnes of Rooibos tea
try is always on the Cederburg Mountains1,6. It is a teur botanist, realised its com- were produced in 1999/2000
look out for the member of the legume family, mercial potential and initiated its and the domestic market
next novel raw [Link] plants can survive cultivation in plantations by absorbs 70-75% of the annual
material. Theoretically, in the in extreme and nutrient poor local farmers3. production27.
case of botanical ingredients, the conditions because of their very
palette of possible extracts is as deep tap roots3,5. The Rooibos Rooibos tea is one of the few
plant is a green shrub that grows indigenous plants to have be-
varied as the number of plants.
between 1.5 and 2 metres high,
Rooibos and
It takes just a little research into come a major commercial crop
the herbal supplement area, or with fine needle-like leaves (Fig. for the region4. The method of medicinal properties
the use of plants in local or tra- 1). In fact the name is misleading cultivation and harvesting has
ditional medicine, to find a plant because neither is it red in its changed little over the years, Like many plants which are
that could have very interesting natural habitat, the colour devel- except for the introduction of used in cosmetics, Rooibos tea
properties for cosmetic prod- ops later during the fermenta- more automation34. has a long history of medicinal
[Link] have seen extracts such tion process, nor is it a true tea use. It has been and is recom-
as ginseng, ginkgo, green tea and (from the tea plant Camellia The plants are cut, bruised, mended for wide range of ail-
more recently white tea make sinensis). either by hand or mechanically, ments:
the transition from the function- and allowed to ferment in
al food area into cosmetics. In mounds before being spread out ● stomach and digestive prob-
this article I would like to intro- to dry in the sun. It is this fer- lems
duce you to Rooibos or Red mentation process that gives the
Bush Tea, an exciting new botan- plant its typical red colour and ● antispasmodic properties
ical ingredient from Cosmeto- hence its name. Rooibos is then
chem International Ltd., pro- sterilised by steam and dried in ● allergies such as hay fever and
duced using their novel dual commercial driers before being asthma
phase extraction process as
either a liquid (Herbasol® MPE
Rooibos) or powder (Herbasec®
MPE Rooibos. Its antioxidant and
anti-inflammatory properties, Fig. 1: Rooibos plant
well documented in the litera-
ture, and the results from an Its leaves and stems are used
independent study conducted to make herbal tea that is caf-
on behalf of Cosmetochem feine-free, low in tannins (about
International, showing a signifi- half that of black tea5) and rich
cant improvement in hair in minerals and flavonoids,
growth and condition, makes it which are known to be antioxi-
an interesting new proposition dants6. This “tea” has been con-
for cosmetic formulators and sumed by locals for over one
marketers alike. hundred years but it was
unknown outside South Africa
until it was “discovered” in 1904
History of Rooibos by Benjamin Ginsberg, a Russian
immigrant, who began to trade
Rooibos or the Red Bush plant it from the local mountain inhab-
(Aspalathus linearis) is a hardy itants2 and pack and sell it2. Fig. 2: Rooibos tea, fermented, dried and processed

* Cosmetochem International Ltd., Sennweidstrasse 44/46, CH-6312, Steinhausen/Zug, Switzerland

6-2002 16 EURO COSMETICS

● skin problems such as low in tannins5,6,14, high in min- Antioxidant and free International (unpublished)
eczema, nappy rash and acne; erals such as calcium and fluo- using a DPPH HPTLC method,
applied topically it has a ride5, and contains high levels of
radical scavenging supports the view that teas that
soothing effect on the skin antioxidants such as vitamin C, properties are less fermented, such as green
the flavonol quercetin15,19,21, the tea,tend to show higher levels of
● nervous problems, it acts as a flavonol glycosides isoquer- Recent studies have shown antioxidant activity. Although
relaxant and aids sleep citrin15,19,21 and rutin15,21, the that Rooibos tea possesses sig- the water soluble solids of
flavones luteolin19,21, orientin nificant antioxidant and free rad- green, Rooibos, Oolong and
● ageing related problems due and iso-orientin15,20,21 and their ical scavenging properties due black teas contain roughly the
to its antioxidant activity 4’-deoxy analogues, iso-vitexin to substances that mimic the same amount of flavonoids and
and vitexin14, five additional activity of super oxide dimutase polyphenols, the water soluble
Rooibos was ”rediscovered” in flavonoid glycosides and the di- SOD7,8,14,22,23,30,31,32. Super oxide matter of Rooibos tea leaves is
the 1960’s by Annique hydrochalcone apalathin14,16,19,21, radicals are produced in the approximately half of that of
Theron10,11, a South African which is unique to Aspalathus body both as a result of normal black tea, making the amount of
mother, when looking for a solu- linearis. It also contains metabolism and also by expo- antioxidant activity of Rooibos
tion for her baby who had hydroxylated benzoic and cin- sure to microorganisms, UV, pol- in the same volume of extract
severe problems with colic. She namic acids19 and other pheno- lution and smoking, among much less18. The processing
found that a local health drink , lic carboxylic acids19. Low levels other things. The super oxide conditions of the Rooibos tea
Rooibos, appeared to the allevi- of three condensed tannins have dimutase enzymes are the body’s has shown to have a significant
ate the condition and went on to been identified, catechin, pro- way of “mopping up” excessive effect on the level of antioxi-
discover and document the pos- cyanidin B3 and a profistinidin quantities of these free radicals dants present25,31.
itive effect it had both internally triflavonoid14. which, if left, will cause irre-
and applied topically against a versible cellular damage, result-
wide variety of allergic condi- An average 150 ml cup of rooi- ing in lipid peroxidation, protein
denaturation and DNA mutation.
Anti-inflammatory
tions10. This resulted in her set- bos tea contains approximately
ting up her own cosmetic and 1.5 mg of quercetin24. In cases of cellular ageing the properties
toiletry business in South Africa body becomes less able to deal
of which Rooibos is still a key with these free radicals bringing In addition to the initial
ingredient. about degenerative changes that research of Annick Theron10
Rooibos as a are seen in ageing. other research has shown that
Research on the health poten- cosmetic ingredient Rooibos exhibits both anti-viral
tial of Rooibos, in Japan at the Pre-treatment of cultured and anti-inflammatory proper-
Institute for Medical Research Although Rooibos is sold mouse cells with Rooibos tea ties in vitro and is effective
and Aging (sic) (AICHI)29, the internationally as a health drink extract was shown to protect against various dermatological
Kyoto Prefectural University of up until now it has rarely been them against oxidative stress diseases in vivo (when taken as
Medicine7 and the Institute of used outside South Africa as a when treated in vitro with a beverage), including acne,
Medical Science, Tokyo8 and in cosmetic raw material. Cos- H2O28. In another Japanese study atopic dermatitis and in one case
South Africa in the Department metochem International is the the administration of Rooibos protection against photosensiti-
of Food Science at the University first manufacturer to introduce tea was shown to suppress the sation14. Rooibos tea is often
of Stellenbosch21,22,23,26 and the this ingredient into cosmetics age-related accumulation of lipid used to bathe children with
Department of Chemistry at the produced outside South Africa peroxides34. allergic skin conditions at the
University of the Orange Free and in 2001 applied for an Allergy and Asthma Clinic at the
State14,19 has led to a much bet- INCI/CTFA name: Rooibos The antioxidant and free radi- Red Cross Memorial Hospital in
ter understanding of the medical (Aspalathus linearis) extract. cal scavenging activity of Cape Town5.
benefits of Rooibos. Unfortu- Rooibos has been compared
nately, to date, there have been From the point of view of the with green, black and Oolong
no extensive clinical trials car- cosmetic formulator the most teas18. With a DPPH (,- Antimutagenic
ried out. important characteristics of diphenyl--picrylhydrazyl) radi-
Rooibos are related to its antioxi- cal scavenging method, both and antimicrobial
dant, anti-inflammatory and anti- fermented and unfermented properties
microbial9,36,37 properties and Rooibos extracts were found to
Constituents also to recent independent re- be stronger free radical There are also various
in Rooibos search conducted on behalf of inhibitors than either black or research studies which have
Cosmetochem International Oolong tea but slightly less than shown that Rooibos tea possess-
Research has shown that showing that it improves hair green tea on a mass equivalent es both anti-mutagenic21,28,31
Rooibos tea is caffeine-free5,6, growth and condition12,13. basis. Research at Cosmetochem and antimicrobial activities28.

6-2002 17 EURO COSMETICS

There is currently work in chogramme, which determines: grance and smoothness of tage that it is a very pale colour
progress on the evaluation of ● hair density (total number of hair (Fig. 3). This is especially suit-
compounds from Rooibos tea, as hairs) o 67% liked the general able for formulation into white
microbial inhibitors26. Polysac- ● number and proportion of tel- aspect of their hair or pale coloured skin care prod-
charides isolated from Rooibos ogen hairs (hairs where ucts where darker liquid
tea leaves have demonstrated growth has ceased) ● No undesirable reactions extracts may cause problems of
antiviral properties in vitro ● number and proportion of (irritation or allergy) were discolouration and solid or pow-
experiments35,36. anagen hairs (hairs which are recorded der cosmetics. In addition, all
still growing) plant extracts in the the
● hair growth speed of anagen Herbasec® range are solvent
Improved hairs free, preservative free and con-
Herbasec® MPE tain 100% plant-derived ingredi-
hair growth After 90 days results showed
that: Rooibos – a dry ents.
Studies were initiated by powder formulation
Cosmetochem International at ● Hair growth speed
an independent laboratory o There was a significant A powder version of MPE Suggested cosmetic
(Dermascan, France) to study increase of the hair growth Rooibos has been recently devel- applications
the effect of the use of speed in the lotion contain- oped which has the same high
Herbasol® MPE Rooibos in a hair ing MPE Rooibos compared concentration of actives found The following cosmetic relat-
lotion on a group of healthy per- with the placebo. in the Herbasol® MPE liquid ver- ed activities of the plant are
sons who were suffering from o An increase in the hair sion but with the added advan- extracted from the literature:
the problem of hair loss13. A 90 growth speed was observed
day trial was conducted compar- with 89% of the volunteers.
ing a hair lotion containing 10% Properties Suggested cosmetic
Herbasol® MPE Rooibos with a applications*
placebo lotion. 5 ml of the alco- ● Product efficacy – results
● Increased hair growth, prevents ● Haircare products
holic solutions were applied from a subjective evaluation
hair loss13,30
daily. MPE Rooibos is a concen- questionnaire by the volun-
● Adds brilliancy30 & smoothness13
trated extract of Rooibos pro- teers showed:
to the hair
duced by a novel dual phase o 67% rated hair loss as zero
extraction process which or low ● Good for acneic skin7,10 ● Products for anti-acne,
ensures the production of an o 78% saw an improvement ● Anti-inflammatory5,10,14 problem or blemished
extract with the widest spec- (low to medium) ● Antimicrobial26,28 skin
trum of plant actives i.e. polar, o 45% saw low to medium re- ● Soothing10 ● Baby products
semi-polar and non-polar12. growth of hair ● Aftersun products
The efficacy of the products o 63% of volunteers found a ● Antioxidant7,14,21,22,31,32, ● Skin care products
was evaluated using a videotri- positive effect on the fra-
● Free radical scavenger14,21,30 especially those for
● Tightens skin adds gloss & mature skins
smoothness12
● Powder form ● Solid products e.g.
(100% plant-derived ingredients) deodorants & blemish
sticks
● Powder based products e.g.
colour cosmetics
(eyeshadow, face powder,
mascara etc.)
● Products marketed as
“natural” or purely
botanical-based
● Transparent or colourless
formulations
● White or pale-coloured skin
care products

* Disclaimer : These suggestions are given in good faith but it is recommended

Fig. 3: Herbasec® MPE Rooibos powder extract that all appropriate tests are carried out by our customers in their formulations.

6-2002 18 EURO COSMETICS

Conclusions: 6. Morton, J.F. (1983) Econ. Bot. 37,
164.
linearis) with green, oolong and
black tea. Food Chemistry, vol. 60.
African Western Cape: The Rooibos
Industry in the Western Cape.
Why use MPE 7. Yoshikawa, I. et al. (1990). n° 1, pp.73-77. 28. Medical Research Council South
Scavenging effects of Aspalathus 19. Rabe, C. et al.(1994) Phenolic Africa Website.“Antimutagenicity of
Rooibos in cosmetic linearis (rooibos tea) on active metabolites from Rooibos tea . South African herbal teas.
formulations? oxygen species In : Antioxidants Phytochemistry, 35, (6) : 1559- [Link]
and therapy and preventative med- 1565. [Link]
icine. Ed. Emeril, I: Plenum Press, 20. Koeppen, B.H. & Roux, D.G. (1965) 29. Nakano, M. (unpubl.) Rooibos as
So what makes Herbasol® or
NY. The chemistry of orientin and iso- an anti-aging (sic) beverage.
Herbasec® MPE Rooibos worth a 8. Ito, A, Shinohara, K. & Kator, orientin. Biochem J. 97, 444-448. (AICHI, Japan).
second look for new formula- K.(1991) Protective action of rooi- 21. Joubert, E. & Ferreira (1996) 30. Niwa.Y. & Okamura, K. (1985)
tions?: bos tea (Aspalathus linearis) Antioxidants of rooibos tea – a Effect of Superoxide and beneficial
extract against inactivation of possible explanation for its health relationship of SOD (Super Oxide
● It’s new – green tea, white tea L5178Y cells by H2O2. In : promoting properties? South Dimutase) and BAOF (Bio Anti
Proceedings of the International African Journal of Food Science Oxidant Food) . Presented at
and now Rooibos, Red Bush
Symposium on Tea Science, The and Nutrition, 8, ( 3) : 79-83. Japanese Food Science &
tea Organising Committee of ISTS 22. Joubert, E., Winterton, P. & Brinz, Technology Academy on Sept. 20,
● It’s an ethnobotanical extract Shizuoka, 381. T.J. (2000) Antioxidant and pro-oxi- 1985.
– a growing trend 9. Nakano, M. (1998) Mitsui Norin dant activity of rooibos tea 31. Standley, L. et al. (2001) Influence
● It has a long documented his- Co. Ltd US patent 5,814,319: Anti- (Aspalathus linearis) as affected by of processsing stages on antimuta-
tory of medicinal use viral, antibacterial & anti-cancer processing. 20th Polyphenol genic and antioxidant potentials
agent. Congress. Polyphenols of rooibos tea. Journal of
● Antioxidant and free radical
10. [Link] (1974) Allergies – Communication, 2, 571-572, Agricultural Food Chemistry, 49,
scavenging properties docu- Freising-Weihenstephan, Germany, 114-117.
an amazing discovery, printed by
mented in the literature M.C. Printers, Innersdale, South 11-15th September 2000). 32. Joubert, E. et al. (1999) Evaluation
makes it an interesting ingre- Africa. 23. Joubert, E., Winterton, P. & Britz, T.J. of the oxidant and proxidant activ-
dient for anti-ageing products 11. [Link] , South African (2000) Antioxidant activity of ity of rooibos tea. (Aspalathus lin-
and products for mature skins Patent (ZA9306388) Rooibos rooibos tea: inhibition of lipid per- earis). 15th Biennial International
extract, publication date 1994. oxidation in different model sys- Congress and Exhibition of South
● Anti-inflammatory properties
12. Marks, O. (2000) New extraction [Link] in sustainable African Association for Food
make it suitable for products natural African plant products, Science and Technology, Cape
method leading to concentrated
for sensitive or problem skin active extracts. Cosmetic Science & Round table, 4-6 April 2000, Cape Town, 1999.
or for after sun or baby prod- Business 2000. Town, South Africa. 33. Description of rooibos tea cultiva-
ucts 13. (1998) Study, in vivo on human 24. Snykers, F.O. & Salemi, J.S. (1974) tion, harvesting and processing.
● It has independent lab data to subjects of the efficacy of an active Studies of some South African med- [Link]
designed to prevent hair loss plus icinal plants, part I. Quercetin as [Link]
show it improves hair growth
placebo : videotrichogramme study. the major in vitro active compo- 34. Inanami, O. et al. (1995) The sup-
and condition nent of rooibos tea. South African pression of age-related accumula-
Conducted on a lotion containing
● It is a concentrated extract MPE Rooibos by Dermascan, Chemical Instititute, 27: 5-7. tion of lipid peroxides in rat brain
produced by a novel dual France for Cosmetochem 25. ARC Infruitec-Nietvoorbj Institute by administration of rooibos tea
phase extraction process International. website: Post Harvesting and (Aspalathus linearis). Neuroscience
developed by Cosmetochem 14. Ferreira, D. Marais, C. & Processing Technology (research on Letters, 196, (1-2): 85-8.
Steenkampf, J.A. (1995) Rooibos South African fruit, grape, wine 35. Nakano, M. Itoh, Y. & Nakashima,
International and is available
tea as a likely healthfood supple- and brandy industries , including H. (1995) Anti-viral activity of acid
as both a liquid and a powder herbal teas and functional foods) polysaccharides from rooibos tea
ment. Fundamental Foods for
(pale coloured ) Health pp. 73-88. [Link] (Aspalathus linearis) in vitro. 5th
15. Koeppen, B. H. & Smit, C.J.B. (1962) 26. Schepers. S. MSc Food Science in Intln. [Link]. 1995.
The Flavone C-Glycosides and Progress. Evaluation of compounds 36. Nakano, M. et al. (1997)
Flavanol O-Glycosides of from rooibos tea as microbial Polysaccharide from Aspalathus
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6-2002 19 EURO COSMETICS