Parkerizing

Phosphate coatings, better known in the gun trade as Parkerizing, have been around
since the late 1800’s. The process is used primarily as an industrial coating and many times as
a primer for paint other protective coatings. It is non-reflective, wears well, and due to its oil
trapping ability, is well suited for inclement weather. Like Bluing, the coating is applicable to
practically every type of firearm steel, except stainless steel. The color achieved and its depth
are variable depending on the particular steel alloy. The color is best described as a dark,
charcoal gray. The green/brown color often associated with vintage military weapons is actually
a result of the type and color, or subsequent aging and oxidation. The lubricants and
preservatives commonly applied such as cosmoline, along with remnants of linseed oil, bore
cleaner, sweat, and ordinary dirt alter the appearance over time.
Unlike bluing salts, most metal phosphates are insoluble in water. To make them
soluable, the metal phosphates are dissolved in a solution of phosphoric acid. As long as the
acid concentration of the Parkerizing Solution remains above a critical point, the metal
phosphate remains in solution. When the steel is immersed in the phosphating solution, a light
acid pickling takes place and the acid concentration is reduced at the liquid-metal interface. At
the surface the steel from the gun is dissolved, hydrogen is released, and a phosphate coating
is deposited onto the steel. While the chamber and bores of rifles and handguns should be
protected from the Parkerizing action, other operating parts can be coated with limited worry
about dimensional change. Any excess, built-up coating is essentially removed in the very early
stages of use after reassembly, and the parts return to their original dimensions.
There are several types of phosphate coatings available, including iron, zinc, and
manganese based solutions. Zinc and manganese-based are the types usually associated with
firearms finishing. Manganese offers the best wear resistance when used as the final finish,
and heavy zinc is an excellent base for use with spray-on/bake-on coatings such as Cerakote or
Duracoat.

Mangenese:
 It has a very heavy crystal structure that gives a coarser and more porous finish
than other phosphates.
 1000 to 4000 mg/sq. ft. of coating weight.
 Once applied, it retains a greater volume of lubricating or rust preventive
products.
 The Parkerizing Solution is very long-lasting.
 Standard Military finish.
Heavy Zinc:
 1000 to 3000 mg/sq. ft. of coating weight.
 Excellent surface for paint adhesion and for holding lubricants and rust
preventive compounds.
 Very little sludge build-up in the tank. Very user friendly.
 Less cost involved in bath makeup.
 Excellent corrosion resistance under paint and spray-on/bake-on coatings
Some level of Parkerizing action will take place on steel parts regardless of the degree
of surface preparation. The more highly polished the surface, the thinner the resulting coat will
be. Parts should be given a blasted finish; or a brushed surface using buffing wheels loaded
with 60 or 80 grit polish. The primary reason for the rough surface preparation is to provide
more surface area for the phosphate coating to work on, and it will result in a denser, coarser
coating. Coarse finishes have more microscopic hills and valleys caused by the coarser
abrasive grit “gouges” not being leveled out. Parkerizing is not for a “fine” finish like you can
achieve with bluing, it is a dull, non-reflective utility finish typically found on military and hunting
firearms.

Mixing The Mangenese Parkerizing Solution

For one gallon of Mangenese Parkerizing Solution, Measure exactly 114 oz. of water
and pour into the Parkerizing Tank. The Parkerizing Tank must be a stainless steel. Heat and
bring to 140° F, (min 120° F, max 160° F).
Measure 14 oz. (by volume) of Mangenese Parkerizing chemical, straight from the jug,
and add to the heated water. Mix thoroughly with a stainless steel
or heat-resistant nylon or plastic spoon. Measure the depth of the
Parkerizing Solution using a stainless steel ruler, or measure from
the top of the Parkerizing Tank to the top of the Parkerizing
Solution. Write down this measurement as a reference, so this
depth of Parkerizing Solution can be maintained. At this stage, the
Parkerizing Solution in the Parkerizing Tank should be a
transparent light green.
Note: The next step is done one-time only. Iron is added to the Parkerizing Solution only
on initial mix-up to age and condition the parkerizing solution, otherwise the first items
processed will have thin coating and will not resist wear. Aging and conditioning is done
to prepare the parkerizing solution to do its work, and is not done again until the entire
tank is replaced.
While maintaining the solution at 140° F (minimum 120° F, maximum 160° F) add .32 oz. of
powdered iron (per each gallon of parkerizing solution).
 With a scale, .32 oz. is 140 grains.
 With a measuring spoon, .32 oz. is approximately 2⁄3 teaspoon.
To add the iron place it in a coffee filter with the sides drawn up and tied together with black
iron wire forming a bag, and suspend it in the Parkerizing Solution. There will be only slight
visible reaction at this point, with only minimal bubbling on the surface of the bag. Hold the
Parkerizing Solution in this temperature range (120° to 160°) for one hour, moving the bag back
along the length of the Parkerizing Tank every 4 to 5 minutes, followed by stirring with a
chemically resistant spoon. After 30 minutes, light-colored flakes will begin to form in the
Parkerizing Solution. This is normal, a result of the chemical reaction between the Parkerizing
Solution and the iron in the bag. Continue stirring for the entire hour. At the end of the hour,
remove the bag from the Parkerizing Solution and dispose of it.

Remember, any attempt to Parkerize without performing this aging step will result in a thin finish
with poor durability.

DO NOT ADD ADDITIONAL POWDERED IRON DURING THE LIFE OF A BATH.

Heat to 190-195° F, add water lost in evaporation, (determined by measuring the level of
Parkerizing Solution in your Parkerizing Tank), and stabilize at this temperature.
  Note: Properly mixed, the Parkerizing Solution will boil at approximately 210° F. Avoid
boiling the Parkerizing Solution. Boiling causes the water to evaporate rapidly,
requiring continual replenishment. Boling also generates an excessive amount of sludge
buildup, and may also induce eruptions of the bath. There is nothing to be gained in
heating the parkerizing solution beyond 195° F.

Mixing The Heavy Zinc Parkerizing Solution

To mix one gallon of Zinc Parkerizing Solution, Measure
exactly 124 oz. of water and pour into your Parkerizing Tank. The
Parkerizing Tank must be a stainless steel or porcelainlined
container. Turn on the heat and bring to about 140° F, (minimum
120° F, maximum 160° F.) Measure 4 oz. of Zinc Parkerizing
chemical and add to the heated water. Mix thoroughly and measure from the top of the
Parkerizing Tank to the top of the Parkerizing Solution. Keep this measurement as a reference,
so this depth of Parkerizing Solution can be maintained. At this stage, the Parkerizing Solution
in the Parkerizing Tank is a transparent, light green
NOTE: In both solutions the powdered iron can be added without using the filter bag by
just sprinkling it on top of the Parkerizing Solution, however it is not recommended as it
is difficult to keep the iron from sticking to the bottom of the Parkerizing Tank and
causing a build-up of hard residue. This hard residue is extremely difficult to remove,
and can result in hot spots and possible eruptions during the parkerizing process

Steps To Parkerize
1. Prepare parts with the desired finish. If blasting DO NOT USE GLASS BEADS. Glass
beads dimple the surface rather than etching it, and will not yield a sufficient blast..
2. Plug the barrel openings. Recommended plug materials are soft wood, neoprene, or
other synthetic materials. Gas ports in autoloading firearms must also be plugged. The
easiest way to plug these port holes is to use roundtoothpicks, driven solidly in place.
3. Make hangers for the parts using common black iron wire. Make sure the loop is an
oversized “O” shape instead of a narrow “U” shape that can rub the part. Feed the wire
through screw or pin holes to keep the wire away from the visible, outside surface of the
parts.
4. Clean the properly prepared parts in hot Dicro-Clean or other cleaning solution,
scrubbing if necessary, to remove traces of rust-inhibiting compounds, and also to
remove any remnants of the blasting or abrasive media.
5. Rinse and scrub in clean, flowing, cold water. Submerging parts in a flowing water rinse
tank or under strong spray nozzle for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Use a brush and
thoroughly scrub all nooks and recesses to remove all traces of the hot cleaning
solution. This is very important because if alkaline cleaning solutions are carried over
into the Parkerizing Tank they will contaminate it, interfering with proper coating
formation and producing excess sludge.
6. Rinse in boiling water for 3-5 minutes.
7. Move parts directly into the Parkerizing Solution Tank from the Hot Water Rinse. You
must move quickly because the parts are hot and dry and any delay may cause rust to
 form on the part. The parkerizing action will not take place on rusted areas. Make sure
the parts do not rest on the bottom of the tank or come in contact with other items in the
tank. A number of small parts can be processed in baskets made of stainless steel
screen, do not use black iron screen.
The Parkerizing action will begin immediately, and is indicated by considerable gassing.
The parts begin to bubble and fizz, like Alka-Seltzer in water. It will slowly decrease, and when
the gassing ceases the coating is complete and the part should be removed. When the
Parkerizing process begins, you will notice the immediate
formation of a light colored, insoluble residue, or sludge,
which accumulates on the bottom of the Parkerizing Tank
and swirls around within the bath. This is a product of the
chemical reaction showing the phosphate is being
deposited on the surface of the metal. Stir the solution
while the part is submerged. Complete Parkerizing time is indicated by the cessation of
gassing, usually no more than four or five minutes, and sometimes much less. Should
cessation not occur within 15 minutes, excessive etching of the metal surface is likely to take
place. If the part is still gassing after 5 minutes, lift it out and inspect it. If the coating is
satisfactory, remove the part and go to the next step, the flowing water rinse.
NEVER LEAVE A GASSING PART IN THE PARKERIZING SOLUTION FOR
LONGER THAN 15 MINUTES OR EXCESSIVE ETCHING WILL OCCUR
8. Place the parts in the cold water rinse. While rinsing the parts should be scrubbed to
remove any surface accumulation of sludge. Also, any excessive buildup of the
Parkerizing finish tends to set up on hot metal, making it difficult to rinse off. Time in
tank should be as needed to completely clean the parts.

9. NOT PAINTING: Suspend the parts in the post treatment solution. Do this step only if
the firearm finishing is complete. Leave the parts in the Post Treatment Solution for 5 to
10 minutes. Lift parts and allow excess solution to drain back into the tank.
PAINTING: Do not suspend in post treatement solution, move the DRY parts directly to
painting for the best results.
Fresh out of the tank parkerizing is a medium to dark gray, not black. Different alloys
and different heat treatments will result in a variety of shades of gray, even on the same firearm.
Older guns that were parkerized years ago often acquire a green/brown cast. By treating the
coating with any number of lubes or preservatives, the color of new parkerizing can be
controlled and varied. Cosmoline and Rig add a greenish-brown tint to Parkerizing, and the
addition of products like Acraglas dye, either brown or black, to Cosmoline or Rig Grease and
then apply it to freshly parkerized guns to give it an aged look. An application of Oxpho-Blue
between the cold water rinse and the hot water rinse results in greenish/brown color.

Troubleshooting

Mottled, Light And Dark Color Variations

  Variations in surface hardness due to: spot hardening, case hardening, metallurgical
variations, spot annealing, or welded areas
 Inconsistent pattering due to the blasting technique
 Excessive residue interfering
 Solution is contaminated
The Part Does Not Finish At All
 The part is stainless steel
 The solution is contaminated or depleted
Rough, Grainy Surface
 Natural occurance, can be caused by leaving the part in too long and not stirring.
Usually happens with fresh solution
Brown Or Yellow Discoloration
 Rust was allowed to form on the part. Usually because too much time was taken
between the water and the parkerizing tank